Camping underneath the saddle (see picture below), Photo: Roger Caffin

Axeheads Range between Ruthless and Remorseless. Photo: Roger Caffin Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

The Official Publication of Bushwalking NSW Inc Volume 40, Issue 3, Winter 2015 ISSN 0313 2684

Editor: Roger Caffin From the [email protected] Graphic Design & Assembly: editor’s desk. . . Barry Hanlon Proofreader: Roy Jamieson ell, we nearly didn’t have a Winter issue: a few weeks ago I had only one small article for it. But Margaret Covi of the Watagan Bushwalking NSW Officers: Wanderers leant on her club members and came up with a whole President: Mitchell Isaacs W lot of articles. So, if this issue seems to be a Watagan Wanderers special - Executive Officer: Kirsten Mayer well, it is. My thanks to Margaret and her club. But what about YOUR [email protected] Phone: 9565 4005 club? Website: The front cover is a hybrid between two of Margaret’s articles: one on www.bushwalkingnsw.org.au snow shoeing and another on a Jagungal trip. It is of course the summit of Address all correspondence to: Mt Jagungal in winter, by snow shoe. The photo was taken late in July PO Box 119, Newtown, NSW 2042 some years ago. The snow cover was a bit poor, as you can see. The two inside front cover photos are both mine too - because I have run out of good photos from other people. If you have a good scenic or Bushwalking NSW Inc represents otherwise suitable photo, please send it to me! Otherwise ... you get my approximately 66 Clubs with a total membership of about 10,000 photos. bushwalkers. Anyhow, the inside front cover photos: the Axeheads Range (near Formed in 1932, Bushwalking NSW Yerranderie) connects Ruthless to Remorseless via a very narrow rocky provides a united voice on behalf of all saddle - maybe 1 m wide in places, with a bit of a drop in the middle. bushwalkers on conservation, access That’s the bottom photo. To be sure the saddle can be crossed, but we had and other issues. this howling gale across it at the time, and discretion won. We dropped People interested in joining a down on the near side (that was a bit steep) to traverse under the cliffs, bushwalking club may write to the and found the charming campsite in the top picture under the middle, with Administration some spectacular views. The climb up the other side was a bit steep too. [email protected] The back cover photo was taken very early in the morning when we for a list of Clubs, but a far more were descending from Dolice Refuge, under Mt Triglav in Slovenia. useful on-line list is available at the Bushwalking NSW website Limestone country, very different from . The track is an old WW II www.bushwalkingnsw.org.au, military mule track built for access to the Refuge during the war. It is broken up into areas. There’s lots of mostly quite OK, but looking down on the lower sections as they zigzag up other good stuff there too, including the mountain face is a bit spectacular. Crossing the nevé bank seen in the the Australian Bushwalking FAQ. photo was the only tricky bit: it was steep and icy. Articles for Publication We are always happy to receive pictures for publication, even if there is no story. Send them in! However, please note that little 640x480 photos and little photos from cheap Index phones are just not good enough: they simply do not print well enough at 300 dpi. We need the full-size originals, straight from the camera and uncropped and unretouched, so we can set them up for the printing process. Yes, printing on paper IS different from Wouldn’t you like to be here? 2 viewing on a screen. From the Editor’s Desk 3 Apart from that, PLEASE keep those bushwalking articles rolling in. We need them. The Ultimate View and No stories: no magazine. If you are describing a walk somewhere, it would really help if Ultimate Slot 4 you could give the reader (who may be from far away) some idea of where the walk is. Airly Packwalk 8 We don’t need GRs, just a general idea. We need suitable photos for most every article, Snow Shoeing 10 so please include a few. Once again, note that little, cropped or shrunk photos will rarely be accepted. If you want to include a DOC file or a PDF (in addition to the Jugungal Wilderness 12 mandatory plain text file and full-sized photos) to illustrate how the photos fit into the Elyl Peak to Baerami Ck 13 text, that's fine but we won't use the DOC/PDF file itself or the photos embedded in Lords Creek 14 them. They are not good enough. Book Reviews: Finally, the opinions expressed by authors may not represent the official opinions of Following Burke and Wills Bushwalking NSW or of any Club. The Editor’s opinions are his own, are subject to across Australia 15 change without explanation, and may be pretty biased anyhow. The Bush Club, 75 Years Old and still walking 15 Roger Caffin Editor

F ro nt C o ver: M t . Jagu n gal by Sn o w sh o e ( Au st ral i an Yo w i es) , Ko sci u sk o Nat i o n al Park . Ph o t o : Ro ger C affi n . Back C o ver: Descen t fro m Do l i ce Refu ge, Tri gl av Nat i o n al Park , Sl o ven i a. Ph o t o : Ro ger C affi n .

Volume 40, Issue 3, Winter 2015 The Bushwalker | 3 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club The Ultimate View and Ultimate Slot

Michael Keats, The Bush Club Photos: Brian Fox

vertical cliffs of The Through the thinning forest views of the Citadel (named by upper Capertee Valley could be seen. As Haydn Washington we climbed a defined cliff edge was September 1984) at the developing beneath us and at 0950, GR southernmost point of 247 308 we emerged onto a series of rock Genowlan Mountain would be platforms with jaw dropping voids below. beyond our rock scrambling skills, Col Ribeaux's property, Mount Airly, was so we settled on attempting the ascent a conspicuous green patch to the of a notched valley on the western side. northwest. The high cliffs that encircle Terrifyingly It would still be a spectacular climb. Col’s place all the way to Airly Turret steep stuff At 0908 the vehicles were parked in a were magic in their brilliant colour. To layby on the Glen Davis Road. The the south Blackmans Crown squatted low briefing session focused on the challenges on the horizon. After photos it was time to of the terrain and an understanding that move, onwards and upwards. the walk may be impossible to complete. A short slot climb and suddenly we Four minutes later we had crossed the were on an intermediate plateau and in a road and commenced a zig zagging climb Casuarina forest. The dense mat of fallen up the steep talus slope. needles prevented any understorey his is a tale of a bushwalk laced Some 20 m in we came across a well- development so progress was rapid. Also with superlatives about some of the defined path. It was not a bike track but in this area we came across a small Tmost spectacular features to be very likely a safe walking access track section where a lightning strike had found anywhere on the planet. Some running parallel to the Glen Davis Road charred an area of about 100 square simple stuff first. It is just 3 hours from used by the locals. It was noted and we metres. At the centre were the remains of Sydney, in the Gardens of Stone National kept climbing. As well as finding an an exploded tree. All bark charring was Park. You do not need ropes or tapes but unusual all blue variety of Brachycome on faces exposed to the blast. Heavy rain you do need a good head for heights and Daisy, we were also treated to a mass at the time must have reduced the impact an adventurous spirit. flowering of Correa reflexa var reflexa of fire. The spur that extends from The Having created the walk concept from that dominated the lower slope Citadel in the south to Genowlan Trig I perusing the Glen Alice topographic map, understorey. have named Citadel Spur. it was discovered on a study of detailed By 0944 we had reached the first At 1012 a convenient pagoda, GR 250 aerial photographs that an ascent of massive blocks of exposed sandstone. 312 was chosen for morning tea. It was a

View from The Ultimate Point Amphitheatre pass

4 | The Bushwalker Volume 40, Issue 3, Winter 2015 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

up to an amazing circular space, about 50 closer and to the south was the block end m across and surrounded on all sides by of The Citadel followed by a continuity of soaring pagodas, GR 251 313. The floor of imposing cliffs back to under our feet. this space was tufted with bright green Immediately north was a natural grasses and occasional Xanthorrhoea. To masterpiece of two embayments backed the east light poured into this arena by vertical cliffs. This was a reward for between the pagodas. The pass has been climbing of a scale like no other. We were named Amphitheatre Pass by Brian Fox entranced. Daryl climbed a precarious and the circular space the Pagoda tilted boulder that perched on the cliff Amphitheatre. edge to the south. Possibly weighing 1000 tonnes this rock is connected to the cliff rawn to the intense light top by less than 10 square metres of Dbetween the pagodas in the east we made our way to the cliff edge, to one of the most stupendous outlooks in this amazing country. We gasped in awe when we walked out onto a narrow balcony. Below and stretching for kilometres was the Capertee Valley. The Traversing above nothing - the next vision was an IMAX step is ... interesting experience. In the north east were the profiles of Mounts quick one as something in us all just Gundangaroo, and Canobla wanted to climb and climb … walking together with the guardian soon became a tactile experience. Contact cliffs of Sir John's Mouth. with rock was everything. Seeking a way Around to the south and east upward, the lower slopes of pagodas were of this it was Red Rocks; the used to make a convoluted progress. It is horizon blips of Mount walker friendly terrain as we threaded our Dawson, Mount Davidson, way around, and in and out, and always Mount Jamison, Mount upward. McLean, then forward and At 1030, GR 250 312 a broad slot south east it was the majesty became a pass, then a great pass that led of Pantoneys Crown. Much Genowlan Pagodas

Volume 40, Issue 3, Winter 2015 The Bushwalker | 5 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club contact. He took opportunity to say we also were perched on next to nothing. We retorted that his position was possibly worse. Cameras went into overdrive in this special area. It was Shelia who came up with the name, The Ultimate View. More than 20 minutes were enjoyed here. Four minutes after resuming we entered a great canyon to the north. Suddenly we were traversing the very narrowest of rock ledges with drops of 50 m below. The adrenalin rush was amazing. Deft foot work and a disciplined mind were required to cross over incised dry slots. A major canyon was negotiated using the same technique plus high level concentration. Photos taken of the drop do not fully reflect this ‘on the edge’ experience.

everal small short slots allowed the upward journey to Scontinue through a sandstone wonderland. Then suddenly we had passed the exposed rocks, crossed a broad open rock platform, and entered a fire damaged forest in recovery mode. The appearance of cut tree stumps, abandoned cut logs, and level ground signalled we had arrived at Genowlan Trig, GR 253 316. Obligatory photos of us all clustered around and on top of the disused trig followed. It was now 1134 and there was a need to extend the adventure. To show off some of the wonders of the northern part of the mesa and the incised tributary network of Genowlan Creek we headed east along an extension of the old fire trail. The views from an open platform here are amazing. Whilst Genowlan Mountain and Genowlan Point are dominant, the western cliff wall above Genowlan Creek was glowing burnt orange. Great pagodas occupied the vast space in between. Closest were the features of Hidden Valley then further north the wonders of Treasure Point. The Valley of the Dinosaurs was to our left, (west). Brian and I conferred about what to show the party. I pumped for a visit to Treasure Point through a maze of pagodas and deep ravines. Brian opted for something a little less rigorous, suggesting we go to the Grotto. As it turned out we did some entirely different. We returned to the trig point and then made our way down the old trig access road to approximately GR 252 323. Here we Looking down into The Ultimate Slot The easy bit of the slot The slot getting narrower

6 | The Bushwalker Volume 40, Issue 3, Winter 2015 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club stopped to appreciate the stunning Finding the entrance to the gully formations and views. A cluster of that might provide access to the great mammary shaped pagodas to bottom of the slot was quite an the east of our position just had to be exercise. The gullies in the area are climbed and would provide a top densely forested and full of fern spot for lunch. These pagodas, species that hide all kinds of fallen devoid of any vegetation are logs make checking difficult. Finally, geomorphologic erotica. Walking on there was a cry ‘Found it’. What them is to caress them. Having lunch followed is one of the most on the top of them is a sensual incredible discoveries that any group experience. And amazingly under of bushwalkers could hope to make. one of three small solitary rocks in a The gully entry is nondescript. It valley between the two most could be any of a thousand similar delightful forms was a gecko. It was looking gullies with absolutely no Lesueur’s Velvet Gecko, Oedura indication that there was anything lesueurii, sporting a newly grown other than a stock standard waterfall tail. or less. This one is different. As the As we were finishing lunch, gully narrows the vegetation mix Harold came up to me and said that contains infinitely more rainforest there was a terrific deep ravine to species. Two towering tree ferns the east of our position. I went and guard the entrance. At ground level had a look at it. It sure looked a an upturned moss and fern adorned more exciting option than walk stump is a de facto door. Resting down an old access road, and it went across it is a partly collapsed, multi in the direction we were planning to stemmed Sassafras, Doryphora take. After discussion Brian agreed sassafras. Beyond this mossy rocks that it was worth exploring. and clumps of dark green Strap Minutes later we had descended Water Fern, Blechnum patersoni the wonderful mammaries and were surround a shallow pool. A few steps searching for an entry point to the further on all vegetation ceases. An ravine. To actually get in we needed awesome narrow 45cm parallel sided to push back upstream about 50 m. cleft with a sandy floor leads on. The entrance from the bottom Here a narrow slot terminating in a Packs are a hindrance here, so jump down let us into a well- they were left outside. After about Inside at the bottom defined ravine orientated north - 7 m of narrow passage, and time for south and of some size. It could the eyes to adjust, we entered a slot possibly be a way of route down to that could be the entry to the the valley floor and connect with the underworld. This spot was less than road to The Grotto. 100 m from where we ate lunch. We pushed on down in this ravine That is 100 m vertically above. The that quickly narrowed to a slot and slot is a maximum 3 m wide, 55 m then started dropping rapidly. long and 80 m high. The walls are Chockstones appeared above us parallel all the way and the lateral while the way forward kept displacement is constant. High above narrowing. Soon it was packs off to where light can enter, four negotiate a very tight section. chockstones are positioned at regular Some fancy footwork was then intervals. The back end wall of the required to drop down even further. slot is also near vertical. It was no Brian, Peter and Emanuel suggested wonder we could not descend. We we should hold back while they spread out in the place and almost tested options for further progress. became lost from each other, it is so Daryl, Sheila and I reversed out and big. Brian Fox called this place The went looking for other options. A Ultimate Slot. side slot accessible via fallen tree This is a place of total magic. Has enabled us to access the next ravine it been visited before? We suspect east. Daryl wandered up high for a not. We found no footprints just a view. I went down seeking a doable pleasant silence. Our timing was route. I thought I had found one in good. While we were in the slot the the event that we could not go down sun was almost directly above. the slot. However it made small difference to Minutes later the advance party the level of light at floor level. returned advising that the slot had a big drop and we could not descend fter twenty minutes of numbing it. They were equally adamant that Abliss we made ready to leave, the slot must be explored from the still in disbelief. Ten minutes later bottom if at all possible. I then we connected up with the road volunteered my knowledge and we network. The Grotto visit was set off to test my findings. abandoned. After all, a visit to it would be such an anticlimax. he way down was via a mix of It took 40 minutes of steady Tpagoda-like steps, a watercourse, walking to negotiate the road some scrambling and then a few network to the top of the gap and small jumps. No tape was required then descend to Col Ribeaux’s home. Spur. He recalled the great difficulty in negotiating but the descent did have its As a courtesy we knocked on the the pagodas. He reckoned we were heroes. The slot moments. Once down below the door and then spent a pleasant 15 he had never been to and was unaware of its major cliffs we started circling minutes talking to Col. As we existence. He made the point that he has prowled anticlockwise crossing several small recounted our adventure he spoke of around the area for 50 years and still does not gullies. his one and only climb up Citadel know it all.t

Volume 40, Issue 3, Winter 2015 The Bushwalker | 7 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

Margaret Covi, Watagan Wanderers

View from Airly to Point Hatteras

DAY 1 ridge to Point Hatteras with views north- DAY 3 east to the pointed Tayan Pic & Blacks An early start took us through Lithgow to Corner (an island mountain) & to Genow- We packed up & headed back. We start walking from the Airly Camping Area lan Pt. intended to walk through the canyon at 10 am. Years ago this was the site of a We found our campsite, a cave with again to cut off some of the road & some mining town of Airly. After passing a little water nearby in Genowlan Creek, but the hills. To our great surprise someone had stone cottage we walked uphill into the cave was too small to hold all of us. So, been there after us & removed the Mugi Murum Ban SCA which is adjacent some made camp nearby on a cleared ladders! This is a mystery we haven't to, & similar country to, the Gardens of space off the road at an installation, solved. Stone National Park, one of the areas that which like others we found, must be to We retreated & walked along the road, should be added to the park. A rough pad measure something. We wondered if it getting back to the cars by about 11 am. walked in by other walkers was found & it was perhaps a search for coal or gas. Then we continued along a road from the took us up to a cleared area where we camp area along the eastern side of Mt could see others had camped at a hill with Airly. Here once were shale mines & we DAY 2 saw the remains of this mining & homes Next morning we walked through a little of the workforce. Some remains of stone canyon called “The Grotto”, which we cottages were to be seen. negotiated with the aid of ladders & rails Outside one house people had carved & footpaths. It was pretty & easy to do. into a rock. When graffiti is old enough it Without the ladders it would be necessary becomes historic inscriptions. Translation: to abseil. Then we continued along the people had carved their names & dates road to Genowlan Mountain & Genowlan into the rock near their stone house. Point, which is at the end of a long ridge Remains were seen of cave houses. Many with a spectacular rock escarpment. We houses were built by miners using a big passed a cave with aboriginal paintings of rock as part of the walls or roof. 3 boomerangs & 2 hands. The end of this ridge was extremely interesting. At Genowlan Point there is the “Allocasuarina Nana” heathland, which unique in the whole world for its vegetation. It has dwarf heath species found nowhere else in the world, so it’s a privilege to see it. We saw the banksia tree special to Genowlan Point. Right at the end we entered an Mining scoop enclosure over a stile. Here, safely sheltered in wire cages to protect them a communication tower. from feral goats etc, is the Pultenea Point Bags were left here & we walked down Genowlan, an endangered species of a track to a disused mine. This area has dwarf pea or “bacon & egg” flower been extensively mined in the past for (because of colouring). There are only gold & diamonds. We saw an old mine about a dozen of these left in the world, entrance, a cable to pull out ore, & an old all at this location. One was flowering, & rake left behind, & views to Mt Airly. we would be among probably only a few After returning to our bags we went on hundred people in the world that have along a miners' road passing other disused ever seen it. small mines. Also we went through the Lunch was eaten here with nice views larger Mine in the Sky on a ridge top, to Mt Airly. On our way back we visited a where we saw mining dross, accommoda- large cave with a waterhole where our tion quarters & a large dam though not group had stayed last time, & we climbed the mine entrance. We walked out along a up a slot to a ridge & some pagoda tops. Mine chimney

8 | The Bushwalker Volume 40, Issue 3, Winter 2015 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

Remains of miners house

We followed the Tramway Trail, so named from the horse tramway that took slate to a cableway to the valley. Parts of the bed of this were seen in the bush off the newer track. We saw old chimneys & ventilation shafts & a steam boiler which drove the cableway. Wire cable was still to be seen that was once part of the cableway that took the slate that was mined down to the valley (near the old steam engine that drove the cableway). It was a pleasant walk back to the cars through the green valley with views up to the escarpment of Point Hatteras to the Airly camping area, after which we left about 3.30 pm for home. t The Grotto

Volume 40, Issue 3, Winter 2015 The Bushwalker | 9 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

Ten Wanderers met in the Paddy Pallin store at the caravan park at Jindabyne, where we were to stay till the following Saturday. Here snow shoes were hired for Snow Shoeing those who didn’t have them, and we were ready for a great week. A cooperative write by Snow shoes are platforms that strap Watagan Wanderers under walking boots. They have metal Photos: Margaret Covi crampon teeth underneath that grip on and Roger Caffin snow and ice. Most brands are made from aluminium tubing and a tough fabric, but go at climbing over the boulders with her the Australian Yowies shown here are all snowshoes on although had to be coaxed plastic. down again as she seemed to get stuck. Crampon teeth Under Yowie From there we headed over towards Mt Snow shoes. Wheatley as the wind picked up and the Photo: Yowie Day 1. Perisher to temperature dropped. We had lunch Porcupine Rocks and Mt sheltered behind granite boulders out of the wind on the plain before climbing Wheatly towards Mt Wheatley then downhill to Christine Harvey Perisher Pass where we enjoyed watching the skiers on our way back to the carpark. Four new snowshoers strapped on First day: very successful and I looked snowshoes for the first time today after a forward to the next. quick lesson from Bob and off we went, In fact each day was fantastic. Every heading uphill out of Perisher. It was a day was different both in where we went beautiful clear day with some high cloud and the weather conditions. I never although rather windy with a decent snow expected to go cross country to the top of Kosciuszko in winter then end up in a whiteout following the person in front's boots with great concentration. Nor did I expect to be in a blizzard up at Blue Cow or climb the icy wind swept South Ramshead and walking in soft powder so pristine it was magical both as the snow fell and in the sunshine. The animal footprints in the snow, the icicles hanging from dead trees covered in lichen and the beautiful colours of the heath and trees Burnt gums near Guthega Dam made each day just wonderful. I was usually the last one to arrive or leave as "whoosh". We were kindly invited inside getting the gloves on and off quickly to the Hut for a cuppa but of course we take photos seemed to take me ages and I graciously declined and prepared to make thank everyone for their patience. It was our return in the increasingly heavier such a great experience in I look forward snowfall (after John had found a deep to the next time. hole behind the Hut to drop into). The original plan to climb up to the A fine spot for morning tea ridge top and return up high had to be DAY 2. Guthega - Snowy abandoned as the wind was too strong up valley there, and the weather was closing in. It covering for our first day of snowshoeing. was very beautiful watching the It was easier than I was expecting as long Ruth Campbell snowflakes settling over foliage. My as I didn’t try to step backwards! steaming-up glasses eventually froze over, Morning tea was taken beside a lovely Day 2 and still a novice. A bleak weather and I had plenty of practice “rolling onto granite outcrop and beautiful snow gums. forecast sent us to the relatively sheltered knees” and clumsily getting upright again This is where I learnt to get up and down Guthega valley, where we strapped on our on the rabbit traps after slipping downhill and also how to sit comfortably with these “rabbit traps” in light sleet. After crossing and crashing in a heap. snowshoes on. Not too difficult but not at the bridge over a tributary creek (the We were very pleased to catch sight of all elegant! On to Porcupine Rocks original crossing consisted of cables which that first bridge again through the trees, through patchy snow and a beautiful view were pulled across while one clung on like and hurried uphill to the cars which were of the Valley. Ruth had a a monkey!) we headed uphill and then heavily blanketed in snow. At least 20 cm along the valley side, with the Snowy of snow fell before next morning. River rushing along far below. Then hallelujah, the sun broke through and we were treated to magnificent views DAY 3. Blue Cow of distant peaks, whilst the snow covered Margaret Covi Snow Gums glistened and their multi- coloured bark was accentuated, and the We drove to the Ski Tube station on the sparkled below. Illawong Thredbo road. We changed trains at Hut was our destination, a private ski hut Perisher & continued to the top station, which we attempted to shelter against as Blue Cow. The map shows us that this is snow began to gently fall. Some WWs actually at Mt Blue Calf with Mt Blue Cow dropped down to the bridge over the being further on. We walked outside to be Snowy River, where John performed surprised at a blizzard, or it seemed like acrobatics on the cable support. that, with freezing wind & snow falling. There were several cross-country skiers However having come up, we had to staying at the hut; they slogged it up the venture on, so we headed into a valley Porcupine Rocks the far side valley for a brief downhill which gave us shelter from the wind &

10 | The Bushwalker Volume 40, Issue 3, Winter 2015 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club soon the snowfall stopped too. We walked toilets here, but they were either removed way back we meet with the around the valley & thought how pretty it or fully snowed over. aforementioned campers. It turned out was with recent snowfall on the bushes & [The old Porta-Loo toilets are gone, and they were part of a commercial rocks. Then we headed across to the top have been replaced by the NPWS with some expedition. Strange as it may seem to of a nearby hill. The wind had somewhat underground toilets which do look fairly bushwalkers, there are people prepared to abated now & we had lunch comfortably couth. They are essential, given the pay big money for someone to lead them just under the top of the hill. thousands of tourists you get up there every to a campsite less than a kilometre from a After lunch we followed the ridge up to day in summer. However, come winter, they road. Our first snow shoeing trip was the top of Mt Blue Cow where there was a tend to get a bit buried ... - Ed] excellent and we will certainly be back trig point. We admired the view & As we are having lunch, you could see next year. t returned across the valley to the ski tube the clouds rolling in. By the time we station & after an apres-ski cup of coffee, started to head back, it became whiteout took the train back down. conditions. Lucky we were able to follow tracks back, saving having to navigate with map and compass only. What a day DAY 4. MT KOSCIUSKO it was, just magical with plenty of lovely John Hagen fresh snow and we got back in time before the lift closed. It’s day 4 of our winter week. The conditions look favourable to make the trip to Mt Kosciuszko. The first timers Day 5. Ramsheads might have felt out of their comfort zone, Trevor and Jenny Henderson but when we reached the top of the ski This was our last day in the snow and it turned out a really good walk. Leaving the car at Dead Horse Gap, we headed straight up towards the Ramshead trig. The going was steep at first with plenty of exposed boulders and snow gums to dodge. After about a kilometre it flattened becoming more open. We passed a camp where there were three tents and a pit in the snow where the campers had their campfire. After morning tea behind a group of boulders, we continued up towards the trig on the summit which we reached at about midday. The weather during the The summit, Mt Kosciusko day was variable from bright and sunny to bitterly cold winds and close to white-out lift, the smiles on peoples' faces said it all. conditions. The views from the top were Ramshead Trig It was glorious, little wind and the sun amazing, to the south was out. out towards Cascade Great conditions all the way to Creek, while back bushwalkingtours.com.au 08 8369 1779 morning tea. As we were approaching the along the Main Range top, the clouds were building up, but we the snow covered rock all reached the top and had spectacular formations made for views. some great Soon after the photography was done, photographs. Simple steps we went down to Rawson Pass to get We had lunch in a shelter from the wind and cold to have sheltered area just our lunch. It was just too bitter up there below the summit. Our Exploranges prides itself on to take the gloves off. There normally are return route followed fully-catered tours that let you our tracks up. On the enjoy nature in all its beautiful simplicity. Whether it’s quietly soaking up the scene of a stunning sunset, or walking and talking with new-found friends, we’ll guide you to an experience you’ll never forget. Call 08 8369 1779 and find out more about our style of walking holiday.

extensive experience exploring the bush

Coming off Mt Kosciusko for catered diets all • travellers single for tents single • 50s over active for ideal

Volume 40, Issue 3, Winter 2015 The Bushwalker | 11 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

Graeme Mee Watagan Wanderers Photos: Roger Caffin

cross. Soon it began to rain and we were getting wet as we crossed a scrubby knoll. We soon saw the transmission lines in the distance which indicated we were almost at the Grey Mare Trail. However the thunder and lightning increased and developed into torrential rain and hail. Although we were now on the Grey Mare Trail it was difficult going in the heavy rain, crossing creeks and watercourses, and we were soon saturated and started to get cold. We passed another bushwalker but the conditions were not really conducive for a chat.

he thunderstorm lasted for almost NW face of Mt Jagungal Tthree hours but we kept plodding on and eventually reached Mackeys Hut where we sought shelter for the night, nly a small group were available country including Jagungal in the exhausted after a long hard day. With the for the Jagungal Wilderness distance. Back at the hut we walked down weather conditions we were experiencing O(Kosciusko NP) packwalk. We to the dam which had been used to gather we really appreciated the shelter provided drove down to the area on the 4th water for a race for the gold diggings. The by the mountain huts which are January and organised a car shuttle, hut had been burnt down in bushfires and maintained by the Kosciusko Huts leaving one car at Round Mountain was rebuilt a few years ago and was in Association and NPWS. carpark then driving back to Three Mile excellent condition. As there was an After a good night's sleep we headed Dam where we camped overnight. The approaching thunderstorm we decided to back along Grey Mare Trail. The original next morning we drove across the road to sleep in the hut. plan was to leave the trail at Diggers the Mount Selwyn Ski area where we left Creek and head off-track south along the the second car in the overflow car park. Munyang Range and Great Divide [At this time of the year, Mt Selwyn is towards Cesjacks Hut and Mawson Hut. DEAD - Ed] However we could see more threatening We found a sign pointing to the thunderstorms in the sky and did not Tabletop Trail, so we followed that for a want to be caught off-track in another couple of km until we hit the Tabletop storm so we continued along the trail to Trail which the Australian Alps Walking reach O’Keefes Hut for morning tea. Track follows. We were keen to have a We found this to be an amazing hut look at Four Mile Hut but missed the track with a dining table and chairs and old leading off to it. Probably talking too newspapers stuck on the walls. Another much to notice! [It is not obvious - Ed] hour and a half walk brought us to the We stopped for morning tea and met where we had lunch. three other bushwalkers who told us the [O’Keefes Hut was totally destroyed in the hut was further back, so we continued on. 2003 fires, and was rebuilt with help from The Kiandra gold rush was in this area the O’Keefe family - Ed] and there are remains of old gold diggings Towering above us was Jagungal, a near Nine Mile Creek. We took the next magnificent stand-alone two thousand sidetrack - the Four Mile Hill Trail to Mt Jagungal summit in bad weather. metre high mountain, that looks like a Broken Dam Hut, where we decided to The cairn was sheathed in ice sleeping lion. At the Tumut crossing we spend the night. During the afternoon we found a cairn and a track which led up walked further along the track to Tabletop hill to the long southern ridge of Mountain which we climbed for excellent The next day we rejoined the Tabletop Jagungal. This continued through snow 360 degree views of the surrounding Trail which wound around past Tabletop gums and mountain daisies to top of the Mountain and continued on to meet up with the Boltons Hill Trail. Three hundred metres past the junction we had to leave the trail to head south through the bush to reach Happys Hut. We found ourselves in thick alpine scrub, so when we noticed a grassy clearing near a side creek we headed to the creek. This was not a very good idea and it was soon hard going along the creek. [Sub-alpine scrub: Ho Ho Ho - Ed] Eventually we reached the bottom of the hill and found Happys Hut where we had morning tea.

fter morning tea we headed across AHappy Jacks Plain but it was difficult walking as the ground was very tussocky and there were a lot of watercourses to O’Keefes Hut in Dec 2004, after the fires Inside Mackays Hut drying out after a storm

12 | The Bushwalker Volume 40, Issue 3, Winter 2015 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club mountain. From the top we had magnificent views down to the Main Range in the south, Tabletop Mountain in the north and Round Mountain to the Elyl Peak to west. We also had phone reception and were able to ring our spouses. After descending from the mountain Baerami Ck we looked back up to the summit which Trevor & Jenny Henderson was now covered in thick black cloud, so Watagan Wanderers we took the Round Mountain Trail to Photos: Bob Cox Derschkos Hut for shelter for the night. When we arrived at the small hut built he main objective of our walk was to by the Snowy Mountains Commission we climb Elyl Peak (601 855, Mt found it was full of people with two TPomany), a 859 m basalt peak atop young families with children and another the sandstone country between Widden and couple already there. There was also Baerami Creeks in the Wollemi National another group camping behind the hill. Park. Our party of seven walkers met at Some managed to find space in the hut Jerrys Plains and then drove in convoy to On the way up to Elyl Peak, looking back to and I set up my tent outside. the National Parks picnic / camping area at camp, Reubens Knob on right One of the ladies in the hut had met a the Baerami Creek oil shale mines ruins. ranger during the day who had said there The ruins are the remains of an ill-fated [Ho ho ho - Ed] on the map the first cliff was a major rain event approaching and shale oil mining and refining operation line we encountered was quite substantial, they were expecting 100 mm of rain, so from the late 1940s. The retort is quite but there was a break on the LHS side and the advice was ‘to get off the mountain’. small and appears to have been only a pilot we reached the creek without too much So in the morning everyone packed and plant. The mines were small having been difficulty. headed for the car park at Round dug to test the extent of the shale resource. The last three km along the creek were Mountain. We made very good time and The equipment was technically flawed and slow, whilst there were no major obstacles were back at the car by noon which the retort failed soon after commissioning. such a waterfalls we were all pretty tired so enabled us to drive home in the In addition the shale oil could not compete it was relief to reach our camp just before 5 afternoon. t against imported petroleum products. After inspecting the ruins we set off along the Baerami Creek fire trail for about three and a half km, stopping for lunch at the junction of the western and eastern arms of Reubens Creek. We left the track after lunch and continued along the eastern arm of the creek for about two and half km, making camp on a grassy / stinging nettle flat near Reubens Knob. It rained during the night. Saturday morning the rain had cleared and we were up and away by 7:30 am. Our route took as along the ridge system to the east of Reubens Creek towards our objective. Although there were significant cliff lines there were sufficient breaks in the rock that we were able to reach the top without too much difficulty. As we reached The interior of the restored O’Keefes Hut, the base of Elyl Peak, the vegetation Reubens Creek near the camp site furnished and lined with newspapers from a became more open and grassy due to the previous era basalt soils. The actual peak is quite a sharp pm and most importantly in time for Frank pimple with a small stone cairn on top. A to cook dinner before darkness descended. great place for lunch with filtered views The walk out was a less strenuous affair. across into the Widden Valley and We headed east through Allegro Crater Blackwater Creek. (named on the 1971 Mt Pomany map but Our route back to camp followed the not included on more recent editions). The obvious ridge at the very head of Reubens crater is an interesting flat basin Gully. Despite the friendly contour lines surrounded by cliffs. From the eastern side of the crater we followed a rocky ridge down into the grazing land at the head for Baerami Creek and eventually BUSHWALKING NSW a track back to the shale ruins. Su b scri b e to T h e B u sh wal k er Our GPS was Keep u p w i t h al l t h e n ew s an d devel o pm en t s running for the entire h appen i n g i n t h e NSW bu sh w al k i n g scen e fo r walk and collected o n l y $15 per y ear. Th i s i s t o co ver po st i n g an d the following h an dl i n g: t h e m agaz i n e i t sel f i s free. statistics: Sen d y o u r n am e an d address an d ch equ e o r m o n ey o rder t o B u sh wal k i n g NSW In c, PO Total Distance 31.5 km, Bo x 119, New t o w n NSW 2042. M ak e t h e Moving Time 9h 43m, ch equ e o r m o n ey o rder pay abl e t o t h e Con - fed erati on of B u sh wal k i n g Cl u b s NSW In c Average Speed 3.2km/h. as w el l : pl ease do n o t abbrevi at e t h e n am e! Total Ascent 1221 m, Pl ease i n di cat e w h i ch i ssu e y o u w an t y o u r su b- Total Descent 1190 m. scri pt i o n t o st art w i t h . W e do n ’ t w an t t o du pl i - t cat e co pi es y o u al ready h ave. On a spur line coming down from Elyl Peak

Volume 40, Issue 3, Winter 2015 The Bushwalker | 13 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

Julie Cox Lords Creek Watagan Wanderers put this creek on our Walks program tied up and peeked over. “I see a bottom”. many years ago as a walk, and quite a Great news! Don’t like to go over if you Ifew people showed up. Unfortunately can't be sure that the rope will reach the we’d only gone about 50 m into the scrub bottom! when we were stopped by a huge We threw the ropes over [one assumes waterfall with no way around. That day just the free end! - Ed], it was very became a clifftop walk, and Lords Creek heartening to hear a solid THUNK! when in the Watagans became a bee in my they hit the bottom. Mind you, anything bonnet. after this drop could be a big question Finally, I got around to (or plucked up mark. the courage) to put it on as an abseiling We abseiled down one of the best day. We left one car on Redbank Rd near waterfalls in the Watagans. After that the The Gap at Freemans Waterhole and the creek continued down and down, steeply other cars at The Gap itself. Then we and more steeply, but there were no more climbed ‘The Great North Walk’ track to abseils. We ended up calling this “The the Heaton tower, where Lords Creek Never Ending Creek” as it went on and originates. After going for about 100 m on, even though its only 1 km on the map. into the bush and finding no great cliff Finally we reached Redbank Rd and drove line, it looked as though we’d be robbed to the Gap and the other cars for of our abseil. However, after realising afternoon tea. We had heaps of leeches there were actually 2 small headwaters and bites, we were tired and scratched, leading into the main creek, we came Margaret and I tossed our trousers in the upon the jaw-dropping cliff line of 70 m. bin, but it was a great day. As are all After much searching around for a Watagan walks. t suitable place to ‘go over the edge’ Alan The big abseil - hope there are no more!

COMING EVENTS 10/11 October‐ 24 hour, Capertee NP 22 November ‐ 6 hour, Lake Macquarie

www.nswrogaining.org

14 | The Bushwalker Volume 40, Issue 3, Winter 2015 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club Book Reviews . . .

Following Burke and entertaining is one description. Much of my amusement is due to a far greater Wills across Australia knowledge of what travelling through the Dave Phoenix Australian bush requires - and does NOT CSIRO Publishing require, than they had in those days. ISBN 978-1-486-30158-4 The level of detail in the book about $49.95 every stage of their expedition is excellent. Obviously an awful lot of time xactly why this book was published by and effort has been spent to make this ECSIRO - a science research book the complete word on the organisation, I am not sure. Never mind, it expedition. Quite fascinating stuff. is a very nicely done book, 416 pages, lots They did get to the Gulf of Carpentaria of colour photos, and adequate maps for a and were on their way back when things planning exercise for a 4WD trip. Some of went wrong. Exactly what went wrong - the photos are modern, but lots of them well, it is hard to say, but basically it are reproductions of very old drawings seems they (men and camels) ran out of and sketches. The latter are quite food and water. And they pushed interesting, and not something I would themselves too hard in the hope that ever have seen otherwise. things would work out. That seems Of course, every ‘knows’ about Burke strange in some ways, but the book does and Wills, but as I read the book I realised cover the diary entries they were making that my ‘knowledge’ or beliefs about their right to the end. expedition was mainly a long off the Did you know that while Burke and mark. Their comments about the country Wills both died, a third man, King, and the Aboriginals they met were survived? I didn’t. fascinating. Their comments about the logistics organised for the trip were - well, Roger Caffin Join a Club!

Member Clubs of Bushwalking NSW Inc: All Nations Bushwalkers Armidale Bushwalking Club Bankstown Bushwalking Club Batemans Bay Bushwalkers Berowra Bushwackers Club Blue Mountains Conservation Society Bushwalking Club Blue Steel Dash Brindabella Bushwalking Club Brisbane Water Outdoors Club Canberra Bushwalking Club Central West Bushwalking Club Clarence Valley Bushwalkers Coast and Mountain Walkers of NSW Downhill Bushwalking Club Fairfield Bushwalking Club Geehi Bushwalking Club Goulburn Bushwalkers Club Happy Wanderers Hill View Bushwalkers Hunter Area Walkabout Club Inverell Bushwalking Club Ku-ring-gai Bushwalkers Activity & Social Group Lake Macquarie Bushwalkers Macquarie Explorers Club Manly Spit Bushwalking Club Canoe Club Mount Druitt Bushwalking Club Mountain Devils Bushwalking Club Mudgee Bushwalking Club Murray Valley Bushwalkers Narrabri Bushwalking Club National Parks Association of NSW National Parks Association of the ACT Newcastle Bushwalking Club Newcastle Ramblers Bushwalking Club Nimbin Bushwalkers Club Stone books and also does the layout for Northern Bushwalkers Club The Bush Club 75 Years NSW Nordic Ski Club this magazine. You can buy this book Outdoor Club of NSW and still walking (details below), but the original purpose Shoalhaven Bushwalkers South Coast Bushwalking Club ISBN 978-0-646-93351-1 was to provide a free copy to every Bush Southern Highlands Bushwalkers Club member. No maps or route details, Span Outdoors Springwood Bushwalking Club his small-format 170 page celebration just a description of the fun they had. Suboir United Bushwalkers To be sure, every picture is excellent, Sutherland Bushwalking Club Tbook is remarkable. It covers walks Sydney Bush Walkers done by Bush Club members in nine but the one which most amused me was Sydney Christian Bushwalkers of a whole row of Bush Club members on Sydney University Bushwalkers countries plus most States in Australia - Tamworth Bushwalking & Canoe Club with gorgeous colour photos from each camels, trekking across the Sahara Desert The Bush Club Tumut & District Bushwalkers trip. It was created as a celebration of the in Morocco. Yeah, really! The photo of Up and Downers Bushwalking Club Mutawintji NP in NSW was pretty Upper Blue Mountains Bushwalking Club Bush club turning 75 years old. Quite Upper Lachlan Bushwalkers seriously, I actually read right the way impressive too. Oh, and the photo of ... Walkers and Talkers they were all good. Wanderers Bushwalking Club through every trip report. Warringah Bushwalking Club Two of the usual suspects were $10.00 per copy plus postage and Watagan Wanderers handling of $2.00 per copy, available WEA Illawarra Ramblers Club involved of course: Micheal Keats was one WEA Ramblers of the five Editors who put this book from Micheal Keats, Weekday Walkers [email protected] Yarrawood Bushwalking Club together, and Barry Hanlon did the Yatra Bushwalking Club layout. Barry does many of the Gardens of Roger Caffin YHA Social & Outdoor Club - Sydney Region

Volume 40, Issue 3, Winter 2015 The Bushwalker | 15 Descent from Dolice Refuge, Triglav National Park, Slovenia. Photo: Roger Caffin.