The University of Alberta Revised January 7, 2014 Department of Human Ecology

Dress and Culture - HECOL 360 Course Outline - Winter 2014

Instructor: Dr. Anne Bissonnette Office & Phone: HEB 325, Human Ecology Building, 780.492.3604 E-mail: [email protected]

Office Hours: By appointment only. Requests to be made via e-mail 48 hrs. ahead of time. Students can usually expect a response to e-mails within 48 hrs., not including weekends when I do not read e-mails.

Lectures Place & Time: Education Center South (ED) 265: Tuesdays and Thursdays, 3:30 – 4:50 p.m.

COURSE INFORMATION

Course Description: The complex phenomenon of bodily adornment is explored in relationship to values, attitudes, activities, beliefs, and forms of knowledge. Clothing is considered in terms of how it is expressive of various aspects of culture. Students develop analytical skills to help them understand the role played by clothing and adornment in different times, places, and contexts.

Course Prerequisite: HECOL 201.

Course Objectives: Upon successful completion of this course the student will have: 1) been introduced to a broad range of significant issues concerning the relationship between dress and culture; 2) gained an understanding of how dress functions as a response to wider cultural contexts; 3) been introduced to methods of analysis and critical debates relevant to the topic; 4) developed awareness of a range of scholarly literature concerning the subject of dress; 5) developed skills in critical thinking, research, and scholarly writing.

REQUIRED READING  Listed in individual class description (see next section). N.B. Modifications may be made to the required list (advance notice will be given). Other readings may be handed out or made available throughout the semester. It is extremely important that students keep up with readings.

TO CONSULT:  Costume (Journal) Published by Maney, held in Cameron Library or on the Internet.  Dress (Journal) Published by the Costume Society of America, held in Cameron Library or on the Internet.  Fashion Theory (Journal) Published by Berg; held in Cameron Library and on the Internet.  Miller-Spillman, Kimberly A., Andrew Reilly and Patricia Hunt-Hurst eds. The Meaning of Dress. 3rd ed. New York: Fairchild Publications, 2012.  The Chicago Manual of Style.16th ed. Chicago: The University of Chicago Press, 2010.

LECTURES SCHEDULE, ASSIGNMENTS, ACTIVITIES & EXAM

Week Date Topic 1 T: Jan. 7 Introduction Explanation of the syllabus.  Review of the reading summary template, exploration of “deep reading” methods.  Debating format & the final exam. Th: Jan. 9 Dress as Visual Communication: Reading for this class: Fred Davis, Fashion, Culture, and Identity (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1992), chapter 1 (Do Clothes Speak?), 3 -18. (14.5 pages of text)  Student to access electronically  For ALL READINGS: bring 2 copies of reading summary following the template (3 pages max: 2 rectos, 1 verso). 1

2 T: Jan. 14 Reading for this class:  Québec’s proposed Bill 60: Charter of Values: access electronically (Second link entitled “Bill 60” leads to PDF document) (18 pages of text) Discussion:  What is Bill 60 and what does it entail?  How does it relate to dress behaviors explicitly and implicitly?  What is the resolution that shall be addressed in the final exam?

Th: Jan. 16* GUEST SPEAKER: Wade King, Advisor, Office of Safe Disclosure & Human Rights, University of Alberta.  Workshop Topic: “What is Duty to Accommodate?” *Last day to add/drop winter term courses: Jan. 17, 2014 3 T: Jan. 21 Reading to discuss in class: Katarina Kuruc, “Fashion as Communication: A Semiotic Analysis of Fashion on ‘Sex and the City,” Semiotica 171 (2008), 193–214. (about 21 pages of text)  Student to access electronically via the UofA electronic journal subscription.

Debate practice #1 based on today’s reading 1) What is a debate? 2) The resolution to be debated is: “”Sex and the City” uses fashion to perpetuate superficial feminine stereotypes.”

Th: Jan. 23 Reading for this class: Pamela Flores, “Fashion and Otherness: The Passionate Journey of Coppola’s Marie Antoinette from a Semiotic Perspective,” Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture 17, no. 5 (November 2013): 605-622. (about 15 pages of text)  Student to access electronically via the UofA electronic journal subscription. 4 T: Jan. 28 Gender: Discussion on reading and on what we perceive as gender deviance. Reading for this class: Amelia F. Rauser, “Hair, Authenticity, and the Self-Made Macaroni,” Eighteenth-Century Studies 38, no. 1 (fall 2004): 101- 117. (17 pages of text)  Student to access electronically via the UofA electronic journal subscription (use “Project Muse Premium Collection” to get the PDF text).

Debate practice #2 based on today’s reading The resolution to be debated is: “The ‘macaroni’s dress behavior was outside norms but foresaw individual practices deemed suspicious today.”

Th: Jan. 30 GUEST SPEAKER: Michael Phair, Adjunct Professor, Institute for Sexual Minority Studies and Services (ISMSS), University of Alberta. 5 T: Feb 4* Readings (ALL THESE TEXTS) for this class: 1. Elaine Sciolino, “The Chanel Under the Chador,” New York Times Magazine, May 4, 1997. (about 6 pages of text)  Access electronically 2. Jenny Nordberg, “Afghan Boys are Prized, so Girls Live the Part,” The New York Times, September 20, 2010. (about 6 pages of text)  Access electronically 3. “Hair, Beards, and Power: Taking it on the Chin,” The Economist, August 7, 2010. (1.75 pages of text)  Access electronically *Winter term refund deadline: students withdrawing from courses after Feb 5, 2014, will be assessed full fees. Th: Feb 6 Reading to discuss in class: Christopher Breward, “Masculine Pleasures: Metropolitan Identities and the Commercial Sites of Dandyism, 1790–1840,” The London Journal, volume 28, number 1 (May 2003), pp. 60-72. (13 pages)  Student to access electronically via the UofA electronic journal subscription (P.S.: search for “London Journal” in the UofA journal search (not “THE London Journal”)) 6 T: Feb.11 Debating quatuor 1 Reading for this class: Patricia A. Kimle and Mary Lynn Damhorst, “A Grounded Theory Model of the Ideal Business Image for Women,” in Symbolic Interaction 20, no. 1 (1997): 45-68. (about 20 pages of text)  Student to access electronically via the UofA electronic journal subscription.

The resolution to be debated is: “As part of a complex role-playing strategy, being too masculine in one’s dress can affect women’s performance in the corporate world more than being too feminine.”

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Th: Feb. 13 Debating quatuor 2 Reading for this class: Steven Connor, “Men in Skirts,” in Women: A Cultural Review 13, no. 1 (2002): 257-271. (15 pages of text)  Student to go online to Google Scholar: type “Men in Skirts”  Click on the link that is subtitled “S Connor - Women: a cultural review, 2002 - Taylor & Francis”  On that page click on the PDF icon with note besides “download full text”  This should be free through the UofA but if you can’t succeed ask a librarian (you might have to log in from a university computer).

The resolution to be debated is: “Men’s dress behaviors in the western world are more strongly affected by cultural norms than women’s.”

7 T: Feb. 18 Winter Term Reading Week 18-21: no classes Th: Feb. 20 Winter Term Reading Week 18-21: no classes 8 T: Feb. 25 The Self in Social Context: Age, Race and Religion Debating quatuor 3 Reading for this class: Twigg, Julia. “How Does Vogue Negotiate Age?: Fashion, the Body, and the Older Woman,” Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture 14, no. 4 (December 2010): 471-490. (20 pages of text)  Student to access electronically via the UofA electronic journal subscription.

The resolution to be debated is: “Representations of diverse populations in advertising are few and detrimental to commercial interests.”

Th: Feb. 27 Debating quatuor 4 Michelman, Susan. “Changing Old Habits: Dress of Women Religious and Its Relationship to Personal and Social Identity.” Sociological Inquiry 67, no. 3 (1997): 350-363. (13 pages of text)  Student to access electronically via the UofA electronic journal subscription.

The resolution to be debated is: “In a subculture or group context, social identity is defined by particular dress behavior that strips away individuality.”

9 T: March 4 Debating quatuor (or duo) 5 Readings (ALL THESE TEXTS) for this class: 1. “Me?In That?,” Life Magazine, July 10, 1964, pp. 54-55. (0.25 page of text) 2. Shana Alexander, “Fashion’s Best Joke on Itself in Years,” Life Magazine, July 10, 1964, pp. 56-62. (2 p. of text)  Access online for both of them. 3. Serge Desmarais, Dayna S. Fischtein and Edward S. Herold, “Canadian Attitudes Toward Female Topless Behaviour: A National Survey,” in The Canadian Journal of Human Sexuality 14, no. 3-4 (Fall-Winter 2005): 63-75. (12 p. of text)  Student to access electronically via the UofA electronic journal subscription.

The resolution to be debated is: “In our secular environment, perceptions of the body, in and out of clothing, remain deeply undermined by virtue, modesty and other moral values.”

Th: March 6 Watching in class: [videorecording] / HBO Films, Zahrlo production and and an Urban Romances production; produced by , Kevin O'Donnell and Nelson George; written by Chris Rock, , Lance Crouther, ; directed by Jeff Stilson (2009). (96 minutes documentary) 10 T: March 11 Ingun Grimstad Klepp and Ardis Storm-Mathisen, “Reading Fashion as Age: Teenage Girls' and Grown Women's Accounts of Clothing as Body and Social Status,” Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture 9, no. 3 (September 2005) 323-342 (20 pages of text)  Student to access electronically via the UofA electronic journal subscription. Th: March 13 Reading for this class: Cynthia L. Robinson, “Hair as Race: Why “Good Hair” May Be Bad for Black Females,” Howard Journal of Communications 22, no. 4 (2011): 358-376. (16 pages of text).  Access electronically: PDF should be free- if you experience problems access it via the UofA library. 11 T: March 18 Cultural Categories: Ethnicity Reading for this class: Xiaoyan, Wang. “The Headscarf and Hui Identity,” Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture 15, no. 4 (December 2011): 481-502. (22 pages of text)  Student to access electronically via the UofA electronic journal subscription. 3

Th: March 20 Reading for this class: Bronwyn Winter, “Religion, Culture and Women's Human Rights: Some General Political and Theoretical Considerations,” in Women’s Studies International Forum 29, no. 4 (July-August 2006): 381-393. (13 pages of text)  Student to access electronically via the UofA electronic journal subscription. 12 T: March 25 Appearance, Communication and Consumption Reading for this class: Ingun Grimstad Klepp, “Slimming Lines,” Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture, volume 15, number 4 (December 2011), pp. 451-480. (about 23 pages of text)  Student to access electronically via the UofA electronic journal subscription. Th: March 27 Reading for this class: Sharon Boden, “'Superbrides': Wedding Consumer Culture and the Construction of Bridal Identity,” in Sociological Research Online, vol. 6, no. 1 (2001). (about 15 pages of text)  Access electronically 13 T: April 1 Reading for this class: Sophie Woodward, “The Myth of Street Style,” Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture 13, no. 1 (March 2009), 83-102. (about 15 pages of text)  Student to access electronically via the UofA electronic journal subscription. Th: April 3 Watching and discussing in this class: Merchants of Cool (53 minute FRONTLINE program from PBS)  If a student misses the class, he or she can access it electronically. 14 T: April 8 Ethics (last class) Readings (ALL THESE TEXTS) for this class: 1. Catrin Joergens, “Ethical Fashion: Myth or Future Trend?,” Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management 1, no. 3 (2006), 360-371. (11 pages of text)  Student to access electronically via the UofA electronic journal subscription. 2. Brian Hilton, Chong Ju Choi and Stephen Chen, “The Ethics of Counterfeiting in the Fashion Industry: Quality, Credence and Profit Issues,” Journal of Business Ethics 55, no. 4 (December 2004): 345-354. (8 pages of text).  Access electronically

Student’s responsibility before the end of the last class  Verify that the instructor has all the reading summaries you handed in.

April 18 Good Friday. University buildings closed. April 21 Easter Monday. University buildings closed. Wednesday Final Exam: Pertains to the recurring question: Bill 60. April 23  You will be handed all the reading summaries you gave the instructor during the semester to help you in the exam. 2:00 pm Location: TBA

EVALUATION

Weighting of assignments: 15% (pass/fail) Out of 20 courses requiring readings, I will pick up 15 READING SUMMARIES at random times without pre-notification. . Reading summaries may be no more than 3 pages: 2 recto, 1 verso (longer= fail grade and not able to use it for final). . ALWAYS bring 2 printed copies to class (1 for you, one to give the instructor). . Students will be handed back all the reading summaries the instructor received that they can use during the final exam. 30% Assigned debate – research paper portion. 10% Assigned debate – debate performance. 10% Presence & participation in class discussions, general debates and the debates of your colleagues. 35% Final Exam

Grade Evaluation: At the end of the term, a student’s numbered grades (raw scores) will be converted into a letter grading system with a four-point scale of numerical equivalents for calculating grade point averages.

Late Assignments – Reading Summaries: Reading summaries are not accepted late. However, if a student is unable to make it to class, the reading summary will be accepted via e-mail ONLY if the date and time stamp is before the class begins.

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Deferred Research Paper: Due to the fact that the research paper is attached to a debate with colleagues, a student who suffers an incapacitating illness or severe domestic affliction will not be able to have any points for the debate section of the work(10%) but he or she can apply with the instructor to give the research paper portion late. Deferments are a privilege and not a right; there is no guarantee that a deferral will be granted. Misrepresentation of facts to gain a deferral is a serious breach of the Code of Student Behavior.

Missed Final Exam: Instructors can neither give permission to a student to miss the final exam nor grant a request for a deferred final exam. Students are encouraged to check exam schedules prior to making travel or event plans. The decision to grant a deferred final exam can only be granted by their own Faculty (e.g. ALES students go to 231 GSB to obtain an exam deferral, Science students go to 1-001 CCIS). Acceptable reasons for an excused absence may include illness or bereavement, and unacceptable reasons include weddings, travel arrangements or being on vacation. The University policy on deferred exams can be found in Section 23.3.2 of the University Calendar. It includes specific instructions on how to obtain a deferral.

STUDENT RESPONSIBILITY

Academic Integrity and Honesty: “The University of Alberta is committed to the highest standards of academic integrity and honesty. Students are expected to be familiar with these standards regarding academic honesty and to uphold the policies of the University in this respect. Students are particularly urged to familiarize themselves with the provisions of the Code of Student Behaviour (www.ualberta.ca/secretariat/appeals.htm) and avoid any behaviour which could potentially result in suspicions of cheating, plagiarism, misrepresentation of facts and/or participation in an offence. Academic dishonesty is a serious offence and can result in suspension or expulsion from the University.” (GFC 2003) “All students at the University of Alberta are subject to the Code of Student Behaviour, as outlined at: http://www.governance.ualberta.ca/en/CodesofConductandResidenceCommunityStandards/CodeofStudentBehaviour.aspx. Please familiarize yourself with it and ensure that you do not participate in any inappropriate behavior as defined by the Code. Key components of the code include the following statements.

30.3.2(1) Plagiarism No Student shall submit the words, ideas, images or data of another person as the Student’s own in any academic writing, essay, thesis, project, assignment, presentation or poster in a course or program of study.

30.3.2(2) c. Cheating No Student shall represent another’s substantial editorial or compositional assistance on an assignment as the Student’s own work.”

All forms of dishonesty are unacceptable at the University. Cheating, plagiarism and misrepresentation of facts are serious offenses. Anyone who engages in these practices will receive at minimum a grade of zero for the exam or paper in question and no opportunity will be given to replace the grade or redistribute the weights. Any offense will be reported to the Associate Dean [Academic] who will determine the disciplinary action to be taken. Typical sanctions for serious violations of the Code have included disciplinary grade reductions, disciplinary failing grades, suspension or permanent expulsion from the University.

Exam: Your student I.D. is required at exams to verify your identity.

Electronic devices & cell phones: No voice recording, video recording or photographic activities are permitted during classes and exams. Cell phones are to be silenced during lectures and visits. Students are not to answer cell phones in class (they must leave the classroom to answer calls). During exams and visits cell phones are to be stored with in purses and packs in the front of the classroom.

Students with disabilities: Students who require accommodation in this course due to a disability are advised to discuss their needs with Specialized Support & Disability Services (2-800 Students’ Union Building, University of Alberta, North Campus).

Academic Support Center: Students who require additional help in developing strategies for better time management, study skills or examination skills should contact the Student Success Center (2-300 Students’ Union Building, University of Alberta, North Campus).

Policy about course outlines can be found in §23.4(2) of the University Calendar. Disclaimer: Any typographical errors in this Course Outline are subject to change and will be announced in class. The date of the final examination is set by the Registrar and takes precedence over the final examination date reported in this syllabus.

Recording: No photography, video-taping or audio-taping during class. Recording is permitted only with the prior written consent of the professor or if recording is part of an approved accommodation plan.

Copyright: Dr. Anne Bissonnette, Department of Human Ecology, Faculty of Agricultural, Life and Environmental Sciences, University of Alberta (2013-2014). * * * January 7, 2014* * * 5