LEGENDARY LAND OF CHURCHES AND CULTURES

June 12 to 30, 2020

a program of the stanford alumni association Ethiopia is both breathtaking and extraordinary, a country perched on a high plateau in a region known as the Horn of Africa. Its independence and regional role in Africa has endured for more than 2,000 years. A country of surprising contrasts, it has held fast to its autonomy and its cultural, religious and artistic traditions. Ethiopia is home to an indigenous Christian church centered in Lalibela, where churches were carved out of red volcanic rock some seven centuries ago. Its rich history is matched by amazing natural wonders, such as the Tis Isat Falls and the Simien Mountains, and the indigenous peoples who thrive to this day in southern Ethiopia’s Omo Valley. Dr. Rachael Hill, PhD ’19, an expert on the social and cultural history of the central and northern highland regions of Ethiopia, will provide us with penetrating insights. Join the adventure!

BRETT S. THOMPSON, ’83, DIRECTOR, STANFORD TRAVEL/STUDY Highlights ADMIRE the Royal WATCH for an array of EXPLORE the amazing DISCOVER the vibrant Enclosure in Gondar, wildlife—including the 13th-century rock-hewn cultures of several of the surrounded by high stone Gelada baboon and the churches of Lalibela, carved Omo Valley communities, walls and containing five Simien fox—in the scenic below ground from the red taking in their intricate face castles linked by tunnels Simien Mountains National lava soil. painting, jewelry, clothing, and raised walkways. Park, a UNESCO World dances and customs. Heritage site.

SIMIEN MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK Faculty Leader

RACHAEL HILL, PHD ’19, a visiting assistant professor at San Francisco State University and former graduate student instructor at Stanford, specializes in the social and cultural history of health and medicine in Ethiopia and conducts research on the social etiology of disease and indigenous African therapeutic practices. Her interest in Ethiopia was sparked by its rich literary tradition, its indigenous Christianity and its avid support of African liberation. “After studying the Amharic language at Addis Ababa University and living and working in the country for a year “Nothing beats a and a half,” she recalls, “I have returned to Ethiopia every year and visited various regions of the Stanford Travel/ country. I continue to be impressed by its cultural and ecological diversity and find that there’s always something new to learn about a region as complex and varied as Ethiopia.” During our Study program. program she’ll discuss such topics as the Ethiopian Orthodox Church, Indian Ocean trade during The lecturers are the Axumite Empire era and the impact of Ethiopia’s current politics on ethnic conflicts. really first-rate and — Visiting assistant professor, 2019; adjunct professor, 2018—San Francisco State University so accessible — Graduate student instructor, 2015–2019; teaching fellow, 2017–2018—Center for throughout the trip. Comparative Studies in Race & Ethnicity, department of history, Stanford University — Managing co-editor, Ex Post Facto, history student journal, San Francisco State You very soon University, 2010 have new friends — Recipient: Excellence in First-Time Teaching as a TA, Stanford University, 2012; Joseph Mullin Prize in History Writing, San Francisco State University, 2011 in academia.” — BA, 2008, and MA, 2011—both in history, San Francisco State University MARY FIEDLER, NEW ZEALAND BY — PhD, 2019, African history, Stanford University STANFORDPRIVATE AIR, TRAVELER 2011

SIGN UP ONLINE: alumni.stanford.edu/trip?ethiopia2020 OR BY PHONE: (650) 725-1093 Axum SIMIEN MOUNTAINS Gondar NATIONAL Lake PARK e n y A d Lalibela e f Tana l f o l u l Bahir a G V Dar

B t lu f e ile Addis i N R Ababa DJIBOUTIDJIBOUTI

t Melka Kunture a e Lake Ziway r G E THIOPIA Arba Awasa MAGO Minch NATIONAL Lake Abaya Jinka Lake Chamo PARK Konso Omorate Turmi BET GIORGIS, LALIBELA

summit of 10,500-foot Mt. Entoto, rock face. Learn about the Woito spectacular Simien Mountains, which offers spectacular views people who live by the lake and whose highest peak stands at Itinerary of Addis Ababa in all directions. pay a visit to one of their lakeside 15,157 feet. Simien Mountains Continue to the Maryam Church communities. KURIFTU RESORT National Park, a UNESCO World FRIDAY TO SUNDAY, and the remains of Emperor AND SPA (B,L,D) Heritage site, is home to a large JUNE 12 TO 14 Menelik II’s palace. Stop at Entoto variety of wildlife, including the DEPART U.S. / ADDIS Beth Artisan, a social enterprise WEDNESDAY, JUNE 17 Gelada baboon and the Simien ABABA, ETHIOPIA dedicated to providing fair-wage BAHIR DAR / GONDAR fox. Enjoy a scenic walk along the Depart the U.S. on an overnight employment to local women. After Today drive to Gondar, founded mountain ridge and a lovely picnic flight to Addis Ababa, Ethiopia’s lunch, visit the National Museum in 1635 by Emperor Fasilidas. lunch. GOHA HOTEL (B,L,D) largest city and the third-highest and explore the Mercato, Addis Gondar is home to Moorish- capital in the world at an elevation Ababa’s biggest shopping area, and Portuguese-style castles FRIDAY & SATURDAY, of 8,000 feet above sea level. where grain, spices, clothing, and imperial buildings that JUNE 19 & 20 Upon arrival on Saturday evening, ironware and baskets are sold. are some of Ethiopia’s most GONDAR / AXUM transfer to our hotel. On Sunday Enjoy a welcome reception fascinating structures. Visit the This morning fly to Axum, afternoon, enjoy a brief orientation Ethiopia’s oldest city, the capital and dinner this evening. HYATT Royal Enclosure, where high tour that includes a visit to the REGENCY HOTEL (B,L,D) stone walls surround five castles of the far-reaching Axumite Holy Trinity Cathedral, the and a complex of connecting Kingdom that dominated the vital country’s largest Orthodox TUESDAY, JUNE 16 tunnels and raised walkways, crossroads of Africa and Asia for church, and a stop at nearby ADDIS ABABA / and Fasilidas’ castle, a mid-17th- almost 1,000 years. During our Africa Hall, the headquarters of BAHIR DAR century melange of Portuguese, two days here, attend a religious the United Nations Economic This morning fly to Bahir Dar, Axumite and Indian influences. ceremony at the Church of St. Commission for Africa. This a town located at the southern Stop at the small Debre Berhan Mary of Zion, where according to evening gather for dinner at a shore of Lake Tana, the largest Selassie Church, perhaps the legend, the Ark of the Covenant local restaurant. HYATT REGENCY lake in Ethiopia and source of country’s most famous house of resides. View the city’s famous HOTEL (6/14: D) the Blue Nile. This area is the worship whose ceiling is covered obelisks and monolithic stelae, traditional homeland of the with the winged heads of 80 and tour the Axum Museum with MONDAY, JUNE 15 Christian Amhara people, who Ethiopian cherubs. At day’s end, its fine display of inscribed tablets. ADDIS ABABA make up approximately one- meet with the director of Yenege Just outside of town, visit King In this ancient capital, tall office third of Ethiopia’s population. Tesfa (Hope for Tomorrow), an Ezana’s inscription (330 to 350 buildings, elegant villas and During a boat cruise around Lake organization that works to provide C.E.); the inscription is Ethiopia’s marble theaters vie for our Tana, discover the area’s historic the street children of Gondar “Rosetta Stone,” a pillar inscribed attention alongside traditional churches and island monasteries, with shelter and education. GOHA in Sabaean, Ge’ex and Greek. homes formed of “wattle and including Ura Kidane Mehret with HOTEL (B,L,D) Then explore the nearby tombs daub,” a 6,000-year-old building its colorful frescoes of biblical of King Kaleb and Gebre Meskel, method in which lattices of scenes. Enjoy an excursion to THURSDAY, JUNE 18 noted for the refined precision of wooden strips are held together Tis Isat (“Blue Nile” from the GONDAR / SIMIEN the joints between the stones. MOUNTAINS NATIONAL with clay, sand, animal dung and Amharic) Falls, where the Blue SABEAN HOTEL (B,L,D—BOTH DAYS) PARK / GONDAR straw. Begin the day going to the Nile plunges over a 150-foot-high Depart in the early morning for the BET GIORGIS, LALIBELA

SUNDAY & MONDAY, at Melka Kunture, an important Amharic), which takes its name fish eagles, just two of the lake’s JUNE 21 & 22 Paleolithic site extending more from the bubbling streams that many bird species. HAILE RESORT– AXUM / LALIBELA than three miles on both sides of spring up amid the undergrowth of ARBA MINCH (B,L,D) Fly to Lalibela, set among wild, the Awash River with numerous the luxuriant forest that surrounds craggy mountains and vast rocky sites dating back some 1.7 million the town. The spectacular Lower FRIDAY, JUNE 26 escarpments in the mountains of years ago. Enjoy a sweeping view Omo Valley’s diverse ecosystems ARBA MINCH / KONSO / TURMI Lasta at an altitude of 7,000 feet. of Lake Ziway, one of the five lakes include grasslands, volcanic Drive to Turmi this morning, The 12th-century king, Lalibela, of the Great Rift Valley, a deep outcrops and one of the few stopping at Konso for a specially gathered together the world’s fissure that extends for more than remaining pristine riverine forests arranged visit at the home of Kala greatest craftsmen and artisans 3,700 miles—the string of five lakes in semiarid Africa. HAILE RESORT – Gezahegn, chief of the clan of the to carve a number of churches is the most visible manifestation of ARBA MINCH (B,L,D) Konso people, whose population below ground level, connected these subterranean tectonic forces. is around 300,000 and who live by a tangled maze of tunnels and Stop at the town of Shashemene, THURSDAY, JUNE 25 in this isolated region of basalt passages. In the eastern cluster the unofficial Rastafari capital of ARBA MINCH hills and hard, rocky slopes. After of churches, visit Bet Medhane Africa. Arrive in the early evening This morning learn about the tribes lunch, visit the Tsemay who dwell Alem, the largest monolithic rock- at Awasa, capital of the Southern of the southern Omo region. Some in the semi-arid region of the hewn church in the world, and Nations, Nationalities and People’s tribes number tens of thousands, Omo Valley. The agro-pastoralist Bet Golgolta with seven life-sized Region. HAILE RESORT – HAWASSA others no more than 500, each Tsemay use both livestock herding reliefs of saints carved into its (B,L,D) one culturally unique. These walls. The western churches were culturally diverse tribes live with and agriculture to survive. Like excavated from a vertical rock WEDNESDAY, JUNE 24 little influence from the outside the Hamar, Tsemay boys have face, incorporating existing caves AWASA / ARBA MINCH world. This morning we visit the to successfully complete a bull or cracks in the rocks. Explore This morning visit the fish market Dorze people, whose territory jumping event, making it across Bet Gebriel-Rufael, surrounded of Awasa, admiring the wooden is high in the Guge Mountains multiple bulls four times without by a 15-foot-deep rock trench; boats lining the shore and viewing and consists of nine villages. falling, in order to become a man. Bet Emmanuel, considered to the birdlife on Awasa Lake. Depart The Omotic Dorze are famous End the day at a traditional Hamar be the finest and most precisely for Arba Minch, a five-and-a-half- for their beehive-shaped huts village. The 15,000 to 20,000 worked church in Lalibela; and Bet hour drive, passing through the constructed with vertical hardwood members of the Hamar make Giorgis, carved in the shape of a wonderful panoramic landscapes poles and woven bamboo, and their living as cattle herders and symmetrical cruciform tower. of the Hadiya and Wolayita are widely recognized as cotton farmers on public land that is free MARIBELA HOTEL (B,L,D—BOTH people—some of the most fertile weavers. Our visit concludes with for cultivation and grazing. BUSKA DAYS) land in Ethiopia, where abundant a performance of their traditional LODGE (B,L,D) fruit and cotton are grown. Stop dance. After lunch enjoy a boat TUESDAY, JUNE 23 at red-hued Lake Abaya, whose trip on Lake Chamo, possibly SATURDAY, JUNE 27 TURMI / OMORATE LALIBELA / ADDIS color is the result of a large number sighting some of the hundreds of ABABA / AWASA This morning travel to Omorate to of sediments suspended in the hippos that emerge in the morning Fly back to Addis Ababa and travel visit the semi-nomadic pastoral water. After lunch, travel along and afternoon to graze along the by four-wheel-drive vehicles to Dassanech people who live on the the shore of Lake Abaya to Arba grassy shores. Birders can keep an Awasa in the southwestern part banks of the Omo River. Board a Minch (“Forty Springs” from the eye out for kingfishers and African of the country. En route, stop dugout canoe to cross the river GONDAR CASTLE TIS ISAT FALLS

ORTHODOX CHURCH, ADDIS ABABA

to visit one of their villages. After originated from the Hamar tribe MONDAY, JUNE 29 their cattle and enjoy the fresh lunch visit a village inhabited by centuries ago. The Bena practice JINKA / ADDIS ABABA milk. They have a rich oral tradition the Karo, a small tribe with an ritual dancing and singing, with the This morning, drive to Mago that preserves their history, estimated population of between men often dressing up their hair National Park to visit with the philosophical knowledge and 1,000 and 2,000 who live along with a colorful clay cap decorated Mursi, a pastoralist ethnic tribe. moral stories. After lunch, transfer the east banks of the Omo River with feathers. Women wear beads The Mursi, who call themselves to the airport for a flight back to in conical huts. Men of high status in their hair which is held together Mun and number less than Addis Ababa. This evening enjoy show their position by wearing with butter. Both the men and 10,000, live in an area designated our farewell reception and dinner a clay headpiece with an ostrich women wear long garments and a UNESCO World Heritage site. at an art gallery/restaurant. HYATT feather; a man’s number of wives paint their bodies with white chalk. Often described as nomads, they REGENCY HOTEL (B,L,D) is indicated by the number of The Bena look very similar to the are in fact transhumant (i.e., people earrings worn in one of his ears. Hamar and are often called the who tend migrating animals). TUESDAY, JUNE 30 BUSKA LODGE (B,L,D) Hamar-Bena. Continue to Jinka, During the dry season they live ADDIS ABABA then visit the village of Yetnebarsh, mainly along the banks of the Depart on flights to the U.S., SUNDAY, JUNE 28 home of the hospitable Ari people, Omo River. When the rains arriving home the same day. (B,L) TURMI / JINKA to sample areke, their liquor made come they return to the grasslands Visit the villages of the Bena from sorghum, garlic and maize. east of the river to live close to people, approximately 45,000 in ECO-OMO LODGE (B,L,D) number, who are thought to have Information Terms & Conditions

DATES Deposit & Final Payment for the passenger with respect June 12 to 30, 2020 (19 days) A $1,000-per-person deposit is to transportation and exercise every required to reserve space for this care possible in doing so. However, SIZE program. Sign up online at alumni. we can assume no liability for This program can accommodate 24 participants. Single accom- stanford.edu/trip?ethiopia2020 or injury, damage, loss, accident, modations are extremely limited; please call for availability. call Travel/Study at (650) 725-1093. delay or irregularity in connection Final payment is due 120 days with the service of any automobile, COST* prior to departure. As a condition motor coach, launch or any other $11,795 per person, double occupancy of participation, all confirmed conveyance used in carrying $12,995 per person, single occupancy participants are required to sign a out this program or for the acts *Stanford Alumni Association nonmembers add $300 per person Release of Liability. or defaults of any company or person engaged in conveying the Cancellations & Refunds passenger or in carrying out the INCLUDED Deposits and any payments are arrangements of the program. We 17 nights of deluxe hotel accommodations 16 breakfasts, refundable, less a $500-per- cannot accept any responsibility for 16 lunches and 16 dinners Welcome and farewell receptions person cancellation fee, until 120 losses or additional expenses due Gratuities to guides and drivers for all group activities All tours days prior to departure. After that to delay or changes in air or other date, refunds can be made only and excursions as described in the itinerary Internal flights: services, sickness, weather, strike, if the program is sold out and Addis Ababa/Bahir Dar, Gondar/Axum, Axum/Lalibela, Lalibela/ war, quarantine, force majeure or your place(s) can be resold, in Addis Ababa, Jinka/Addis Ababa Transfers and baggage han- other causes beyond our control. which case a $1,000-per-person dling on program arrival and departure days Minimal medical, All such losses or expenses will cancellation fee will apply. accident and evacuation insurance Educational program with have to be borne by the passenger lecture series and pre-departure materials, including recom- Insurance as tour rates provide arrangements mended reading list, a selected book, map and travel informa- Stanford Travel/Study provides only for the time stated. We reserve tion Services of our professional tour manager to assist you all travelers who are U.S. or the right to make such alterations throughout the program Canadian citizens with minimal to this published itinerary as may medical, accident and evacuation be deemed necessary. The right NOT INCLUDED coverage under our group-travel is reserved to cancel any program International and U.S. domestic airfare Passport and visa fees insurance policy. Our group policy prior to departure in which case the entire payment will be refunded Immunization costs Meals and beverages other than those is intended to provide minimal without further obligation on our specified as included Independent and private transfers levels of protection while you are traveling on this program. You may part. The right is also reserved Trip-cancellation/interruption and baggage insurance Excess- choose to subscribe to optional to decline to accept or retain baggage charges Personal items such as internet access, trip-cancellation and baggage any person as a member of the telephone and fax calls, laundry and gratuities for nongroup insurance. Information will be program. No refund will be made services provided to travelers with their for an unused portion of any tour welcome materials. The product unless arrangements are made in AIR ARRANGEMENTS offered includes special benefits sufficient time to avoid penalties. You are responsible for booking and purchasing airfare to the if you purchase your policy within Baggage is carried at the owner’s start location and from the end location of the program. These 14 days of written confirmation of risk entirely. The airlines concerned air purchases are NOT included in the program cost. To assist your participation on the trip. are not to be held responsible for you in making these independent arrangements, we will send any act, omission or event during Eligibility the time that passengers are not you details with your confirmation materials on when to arrive We encourage membership in the and depart. on board their plane or conveyance. Stanford Alumni Association as Neither the Stanford Alumni the program cost for nonmembers WHAT TO EXPECT Association, Stanford University is $300 more than the members’ We consider this to be a physically demanding, strenuous nor our operators accept liability price. A person traveling as a paid for any carrier’s cancellation program, suitable only for travelers in excellent health and with guest of a current member will penalty incurred by the purchase greater-than-average stamina. Ethiopia’s tourism industry outside not be charged the nonmember of a nonrefundable ticket in the major cities is still developing, thus patience with local services fee. To purchase a membership, connection with the tour. Program and standards will greatly improve one’s enjoyment of the trip. visit alumni.stanford.edu/goto/ price is based on rates in effect in Most of the walking takes place at ancient sites, where paths can membership or call (650) 725-0692. November 2019 and is subject to be rocky and uneven. In some instances, stairs carved out of rock Responsibility change without notice to reflect do not have handrails. Our journey requires several hours of travel The Stanford Alumni Association, fluctuations in exchange rates, by motor coach, the longest drives being up to five and a half Stanford University and our tariffs or fuel charges. hours. Roads may be winding, bumpy and unpaved, and travel operators act only as agents may be slow. Accommodations used throughout our program are the best available, but may not meet some travelers’ expec- tations of comfort. Travelers should be prepared to handle their own luggage in those airports where porters are not permitted. In many ways, the challenges of this program are part of the learning experience. We expect that participants will be a self-selecting TELEPHONE (650) 725-1093 group whose interest in the places we visit outweighs the need EMAIL [email protected] for creature comforts. We welcome travelers 15 years of age and California Seller of Travel Program Registration #2048 523-50 older on this program. © COPYRIGHT 2019 STANFORD ALUMNI ASSOCIATION. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED ON RECYCLED, FSC-CERTIFIED PAPER IN THE U.S. Stanford Travel/Study Nonprofit Org. Frances C. Arrillaga Alumni Center U.S. Postage 326 Galvez Street PAID Stanford, CA 94305-6105 Stanford Alumni (650) 725-1093 Association

LEGENDARY LAND OF CHURCHES AND CULTURES

June 12 to 30, 2020

alumni.stanford.edu/goto/travelstudy

“The educational experience is what makes Stanford Travel/Study trips so wonderful.”

MARTA MACKENZIE, ’59, KINGDOM OF MOROCCO, 2018

HAMAR WOMEN