Q U O T E S Volume 3, Issue 10 “I do think my story is very unique because having a partial disability,Quotes you of teSdsdas are deemed by society as Insertsomeone Quotes who Here! is born to fail. This alone had made me more determined to succeed not just for myself but for the Deaf community D I V E R S I T Y & D I S A B I L I T Y as well. Hence my motto N e w s f r o m t h e D n D D e s k in life is to live a purpose driven life, be Dear Readers, an example to the lost in Welcome to our latest DnD newsletter. In this edition, we are the world and to leave a legacy.” Jenelle Joanne takinng a look at the fashion world and what does diversity really Ramsami means in that environment. Some people with a disability have succeded in being a model and walk the catwalks around the "Strive to be world, but a question really I’ll be asking is how long is going to outstanding, that way take even in the fashion world to consider disability as part of you stand out from diversity and therefore mainstream. Can it be achieved within our everyone else." lifetime or do we need to leave it to the next generation to deal Alexander Masson with it? In this edition, we are also talking about issues of discrimination "I am sure we could in public places for people with a disability. Even though the story always do better but I is related to Russia, actually very similar stories are still am pleased that there is a greater diversity in happening here in Australia. the girls that we are I would also like to take the opportunity to provide you with an now seeing from the agencies and who are update about our DnD program. It is with great pleasure to let reaching the top.” you know that DnD will be having an anniversary celebration on Alexandra Shulman, the 20th of November from 10.30am to miudday at Scope Victoria Vogue Editor in St Albans. There will be live performances from our music and theatre groups, videos made by DnD steering committee members "I think the key to being for the Dangerous Deeds project in remembrance of the disability a good model is movement in Victoria and a light refreshment. An invitation will someone's presence, be sent out next week and we do look forward to your confidence and participation in this celebration. personality. Being disabled should never In our next edition which will be coming out just before xmas,. We hinder any of these will be looking at what DnD will be running in the new year in factors. Everyone terms of support groups and we anticipate really exciting news. should have equal opportunities and be R e g a r d s, able to fulfil their dreams." Lydia Bright Christian Astourian. Call us on 9367 60 44 or email at [email protected] In this issue of DnD’s Newsletter, we are examining d i v e r s i t y and d i s a b i l i t i e s in the modelling and fashion industry. Fashion has to do much more … if it is serious about c a t w a l k d i v e r s i t y. Reading certain sections of the media over the past few weeks you might have thought that we were living in a golden age of diversity in fashion. Modelling – so the narrative goes – is finally opening its doors to people who reflect the eclectic beauty of the world’s population, with models with disabilities among those being welcomed to the fold. This month Jillian Mercado, who has muscular dystrophy, was signed to IMG Models, the same agency as Gisele Bu ndchen. The American fashion blogger and editor has also featured in a Diesel campaign and has been photographed by the high priestess of fashion, Carine Roitfeld. Also this month, Madeline Stuart, an 18-year-old Australian who has Down’s syndrome, was announced as the face of cosmetics brand GlossiGirl and cast to walk at New York fashion week in September. Mercado and Stuart are not the first Above: Breaking Bad actor RJ Mitte on the catwalk for models with disabilities to win headlines. Vivienne Westwood. In February the actress Jamie Brewer, Story, and who has Down’s syndrome, appeared on the catwalk for the US designer Carrie Hammer, while Armani collaborator Antonio Urzi’s designs were modelled by models with disabilities. In June the Breaking Bad actor RJ Mitte – who has cerebral palsy and has starred in a Gap campaign – walked for Vivienne Westwood. This handful of examples is a drop in the ocean of a multibillion-pound global industry, but it does represent “some increase” in the use of models with disabilities, says Cat Smith, a doctoral researcher at London College of Fashion. “In general there is real cultural invisibility when it comes to disabled people – in fashion, on TV, in film, in politics, in writing,” she says. “So it’s certainly important to see disabled models, because seeing people who look like you is important in fostering empowerment and making you feel a little less invisible. Visibility also creates a more realistic representation and understanding of the lives of disabled people. “But what I find frustrating,” she says, “is that you see the same thing over and over again. Fashion week comes around, a couple of shows include disabled models – and that is a good thing – but the coverage that follows is often quite patronising. It often becomes a fuzzy, inspirational human interest story, aimed at a non-disabled audience, rather than a step towards real inclusivity.” The representation of models with disabilities is particularly paltry in the UK, according to Chelsey Jay, a campaigner and director of the models with a disability division at non-profit organisation Models of Diversity. Jay started using a wheelchair three years ago and argues that models should be representative of the population. (According to the latest government figures, 19% of the British population, more than 11 million people, have a disability.) “I’ve gone from seeing myself represented in fashion to being totally ignored, essentially because I am now sitting down, which is ridiculous.,” says Jay. “I’ve always loved fashion – it can be so empowering,” she says. “But it also feels like that popular friend who is sometimes so nice to you and other times makes you feel like the worst person alive. It’s a big fat contradiction. [The industry] seems permanently on the cusp of change, but it never quite gets there.” Above: Chelsey Jay, from Models of Diversity. Often fashion’s arguments for not using models with disabilities are the same as those it cites for not using anyone over a size 10. Designers claim that models are not meant to reflect society but to be walking clothes-hangers – and clothes- hangers do not have breasts or wheelchairs. Jay believes that argument is long out of date: “You can’t say that models are just mannequins. Things have moved on – models have an identity and a fan base through social media. One modelling agent told me that they are not trying to represent everybody, they are only trying to represent an elite group who buy that clothing, but disability is the one thing in the world that can affect absolutely anyone.” Jack Eyers, a personal trainer and amputee who also works with Models of Diversity, has had great Above: Madeline Stuart, 18, walked the catwalk for New York Fashion Week in September, 2015. success as a fitness model (including featuring on the cover of Men’s Health) and more mixed experiences in fashion. He walked in the Antonio Urzi show at New York fashion week and loved it. “He made my leg part of the look, which I think is exactly the best way to go for people to accept [disability].” But in general, he says: “I think people look at the health and fitness side of things as inspirational, but in fashion it’s more of a one-off sob story – ticking a box. I don’t think, in fashion, people are viewing [models with disabilities] as attractive.” Jay agrees that tokenism is rife. “Brands say, ‘we used a girl with Down’s syndrome three years ago’. But we are fighting for the same treatment, not special treatment.” She cites US catalogue Nordstrom as a rare exception, where models with disabilities are used every season, as a matter of course. In designer fashion, there’s much praise for the 1998 collaboration between Alexander McQueen and athlete Aimee Mullins, who starred on the cover of Dazed & Confused’s famous “Fashion-able” issue and walked the McQueen catwalk wearing a pair of bespoke, intricately carved, wooden prosthetic legs. “I was in my teens when I saw that,” says Smith, “and when you are not used to seeing disabled people at all it was quite extraordinary. I thought – oh! disabled people can look really cool – it doesn’t have to be done in an ‘aren’t we being inclusive?’ way. It genuinely felt like McQueen took the artistic and creative possibilities around designing for bodies that look different rather than trying to fit people into little boxes.” Nearly 20 years later, though, she says , “nothing has really developed beyond that in terms of main- stream or high fashion.