behind die scenes The story of Whitechurch district in south County

BEHIND THE SCENES . BEHIND THE SCENES

The Story of Whitechurch District in South

by

ERNIE SHEPHERD

WHITECHURCH PUBLICATIONS ©Ernie Shepherd 1983 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, mechanical, recor­ ding or otherwise, without the prior permission of Whitechurch Publications.

By the same author Twentieth-Century Irish Locomotives—Union publications, 1966 The Dublin & South-Eastern Railway —David & Charles, Devon 1974

Cover Design by John Clarke. Typeset by Officina Typographica, . Printed in the Republic of by Irish Elsevier Printers Ltd., Shannon.

Published by Whitechurch Publications, 16 The Close, Woodpark, , Dublin 16 CONTENTS

Foreword vi Acknowledgements viii Geographical Description 1 General History 5 Church History 10 Whitechurch School 29 St. 's College 34 Flouse 40 Rockbrook Park School 40 The La Touche Family andMarlay Estate 41 TheWicklowWay 46 Footmount (later Orlagh) 46 The Hell Fire Club 48 Mount Pelier House 50 Tibradden 53 Park and the Hayes Family 56 The Hermitage/St, Enda's 57 Woodtown 60 Industries 62 Prehistoric and Holy Wells 70 The Golf Clubs 77 Miscellanea 77 Bib li ograp hy 80 Index 81

v FOREWORD

The history of a parish is the story of a window, and many visits to Whitechurch, community. This fascinating account the Alba Ecclesia, whose spire serves as of Whitechurch and district is more a land-mark and focus. Ernest Shep­ than a parish history. It brings to life herd has interpreted the personality of traditions and customs of earlier times this lovely landscape, introducing us to in a way which cannot fail to interest famous houses and guiding us along the those who have recently come to this winding roads, sheltered in the woods part of Dublin, as well as the many who and secluded between the familiar have had family roots among the hills boundary walls. He has rescued from and valleys, beloved by visitor and citi­ oblivion much that has been hidden or zen alike. forgotten. Today, old and new White­ It has been a pleasure and delight to church have common ground to share read of the people and places, faithfully and enjoy; the varied strands of culture, described with lively detail and under­ tradition, and religious ethos make a standing intimacy. Mr. Shepherd writes pattern for happy relationships and to inform the recent resident about generous neighbourliness. Prices are many local events, which are now wo­ higher today, judging by the astoun­ ven into Ireland's history. The record is ding figures which the author quotes spiced with exciting incidents from from account books of several centur- dangerous and troubled times; yet his ries ago; times were more leisurely comprehensive survey of all that has with fewer pressures; the roads and been happening among the churches lanes were worn by human feet and old and new, in the field of education, horses' hooves; yet somehow this por­ among the industries and recreational trait of a place greatly beloved has amenities, has put the surroundings in a much to give to us whose life and work proper perspective. are firmly concerned with the present. As I read on, I recalled my many walks I commend this inspiring story and de­ over and along the 'Wick- lightful chronicle to all who are drawn low Way', the climb to the Hell Fire to Cill Fhuinnsean and who have faith Club which I can see from my study in its future development.

G. O. SIMMS Former

VI He that publishes a book runs a very great hazard, since nothing can be more impossible than to com­ pose one that may receive the approbation of every reader. Cervantes ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

We are very grateful to the Bank of Ire­ Father P. Duffner, O.S.A., Archivist land for their valued sponsorship of this of the Augustinian Order, , publication. The association is particu­ S. Bennett, the ReverendJ. Berry,J. F. larly appropriate in this bicentenary Browne, C. Coard, N. Falkiner, C. year of the Bank whose first Governor, Guinness, Mrs K. Guinness, Miss M. David La Touche, was a renowned resi­ Hatton, H. Hislop, D. Little and the dent of the area and an esteemed bene­ staff of the Photographic Department, factor of the Whitechurch Parish. Trinity College, Dublin, J. Mills, D. It would have been impossible to have Moran, R. Richards, H. Richardson and written this brief history without the D. Robinson. encouragement and kind assistance of Acknowledgement is made to many many people. Firstly, I should mention other people who helped and contribu­ the Rector of Whitechurch, the Reve­ ted in many ways but are too numerous rend Horace McKinley, who unknown to mention individually. to himself at the time, sowed theseedof Last, but by no means least, my sincere the idea in my mind. My grateful thanks thanks are due to Miss Angela Pawley go to the Director and his staff of the for deciphering my writing and typing National Library of Ireland, the Libra­ the manuscript. Angela was also res­ rian of the Royal Irish Academy, Wil­ ponsible for the excellent map on page liam O'Sullivan, Keeper of Manuscripts 2. in , Public Rec­ Acknowledgement for the loan and use ord Office of Ireland, Senior Parks of photographs is as follows: Mrs. P. Superintendent of Dublin County Clarke, J. Cleary, C. Coard,C. Guinness, Council, Miss G. Willis, Librarian, and National Library of Ireland, Pearse Mr Raymond Refausse, Archivist of the Museum, and St Columba's College. Representative Church Body of the The pen and ink illustrations of Kelly's , Dr. D. Nolan, Head­ Glen, Laurelmere and Kilmashogue are master of Rockbrook Park School, thanks to my wife, Joy.

vm GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION

The region of south County Dublin connection in the Dundrum area, Ball- dealt with in this brief history encom­ aly or Ballawley being the Town of passes an area running from the Knock- Olave, the famous Danish saint who lyon end of Scholarstown Road along had a church off Fishamble Street and Taylor's Lane and Grange Road to the a colony at the foot of Three Rock Marley Park Hotel (previously known Mountain. The term 'marches' was ap­ as Taylor's Grange Hotel) pushing slight­ plied to the hinterland or borderland of ly north of this line to embrace Bally- . The Pale or Paling was con­ bo den, Sarah Curran Avenue and Elm structed to improve the protection of Park House. From this line it runs south­ the Dublin area from the attacks of the wards taking in on its western bound­ O'Byrne and O'Toole clans from Wick- ary Orlagh, Mount Venus andKillakee, low. Beginning at Bulloch Harbour it turning south-eastwards from the latter ran through , across Taney to run along the county boundary to a Parish to and Ballymore Eus­ point almost level with Glencree. From tace, Clane, Trim andKells from which here it runs north-east to come close to it ran to the sea north of Drogheda. It Mountain and finally north­ consisted of a continuous barricade in wards back to Taylor's Grange. In total, the form of an embankment raised to a it comprises an area of just over 7500 height of ten or twelve feet with a thick acres divided into seventeen townlands, hedge of thorn bushes on the outside. the largest of which, Kilmashogue, to­ The barrier ran across the north slope tals 1400 acres, the smallest, Orlagh, of Kilmashogue mountain, where the with 43 acres. remains of it could be seen in the eight­ Before we embark on the history of the eenth century. area it would perhaps be no harm to Next to Harold's Grange as onemovesin take a brief tour, looking at some of the a clockwise direction is Taylor's Grange interesting place-names and the like. which probably owes its origin to the Perhaps the simplest way is to take it Taylor family who lived in the area townland by townland beginning in the from the mid-1700s. Stackstown, some­ north-east corner with Harold's Grange times referred to as Slackstown, is ob­ which includes within its boundary St viously a family name. Kilmashogue En da's of fame, Marlay (Cill mo Shamhog or the Church of St House and Elm Park. Harold is a name Mashoge or Mosamhog) also appears as believed to be of Danish origin, and an Kilmakeoge in the Books of Survey and extract from a grant of James I shows Distribution in 1670 andKillmashouge the name Grange in the Marches, alias in John Rocque's 1756 survey of Co. Harralds Grange. Another source states Dublin. Between Kilmashogue and Ti- that the Harolds may have descended bradden mountains lies the wild and from the Saxons who came over to Ire­ beautiful Kelly's Glen with the remains land with the Anglo-Norman invaders. of the chalybeate spa, more fully de­ The name is still to be found in Harold's scribed on p. 00. Tibradden also ap­ Cross where they owned large tracts of pears in various guises—as Tibroden and land. There is in fact another Danish Tibroddan (Tigh Bretan or Tigh Brad- N tion. Craoibech was certainly the name used in the seventeenth century when it is mentioned in an inquisition taken at in March 1620 as Creevaghna temple. An alternative name for Tibradden was Beg, derived from the fact that the hospital of St Tohn at Kilmain­ ham held 342 acres of land at Tibrad­ den, referred to as Caghbrovane alias Kilmaynane Beg in an undated rental, but probably compiled at the time of the dissolution of the hospital. The con­ nection between the two places is to be found in the Tripartite which mentions the 'Dalua of Craoibech' whom it des­ cribes as of St Patrick's household, and then goes on to mention 'Dalua Tigh Bretan'. Tigh Bretan may in fact have been an alternative name for Craoibech or else the two names Craoibech and existed side by side. Another interpretation of Bradan which I have Roads within the parish of Whitechurch seen is Salmon, but I discount this as a Based on the Ordnance Survey by permission of name of the area. Glendoo (Gleann the Government (Permit No. 3908). Dubh—the Black Valley) is the south­ ernmost extent of the area being con­ sidered and was described in the 1837 Ordnance Survey Name Book as 'a rough cold mountain with a great quan­ tity of turf with only one house in which Mr. White's gamekeeper lives.'It has changed little in 150 years being still devoid of houses. Glendoo Mount­ ain is 1919 feet a.m.s.l, the highest land ain—Bredan's or Braden's House). The in the area. Other spellings are Glen- names of Tibradden and nearby Cruagh dugh and Glendough. are sometimes linked, the latter appear­ Cruagh has already been mentioned so ing to be an anglicised version of the we move on toKillakee, otherwise Kill- Irish 'cruach' meaning a round swelling akye, meaning Blind Man's Wood. Kill- hill, a name totally inappropriate to akee was the seat of Lord Massy, of the area of Cruagh. It could however be which more later. Orlagh is sometimes descriptive of either Mount Pelier or Ti­ translated Hill of Gold, giving rise to a bradden and may have been transferred joke among the Augustinians in the from one of them. The name Craoibech, College there that it must be the only a branchy place, is more likely the origi­ house in the Order where the senior nal name of the area, the two words community live in poverty, chastity possibly being confused in the transla­ and obedience on a hill of gold. The

2 on the perimeter is Ballyboden (Baile Ui Bhodain— O'Bodan's Town), alias Ballybradon and Ballyboulton. Bally­ boden is a thriving community on the Owen Doher river and had at one time a number of mills dependent for their operation on water-power. White­ church has been variously known as Alba (Ecclesia Alba appears in a list of churches in the Dublin Diocese in 1536), Balgeeth and Kilhunsin or Cill Fhuinnsean—the Church of the Ashes. Clarkstown is again obviously a family name. Edmondstown also has a number of derivations—Edmonstone, Edmonds Town, Edmundstone and Edmonds- tonne, and is probably named after 1 Ballyboden. h Whitechurch 7 Stackstown. Edmund, the son of Redmond Harold of Kilrnashogue who was living in the 2Harold's Grange 5 Clarkstown. 8 Orlagh. district in 1582. Edmondstown has the 3 Edmonds town. 6 Taylor's Grange. 9 Jamestown. only remaining mill-type building still in operation on this stretch of the Townlands within the parish of Whitechurch Owen Doher for industrial purposes in Based on the Ordnance Survey by permission of the form of Reckitt's factory. The two the Government (Permit No. 3908) remaining townlands are Jamestown and Newtown, the latter including the village of Rockbrook, described in D'Alton's history as being'once a pros­ perous industry, now a village of squal­ id paupers, by reason of the cessation of several factories that formerly exist­ Ordnance Survey Name Book gives the ed there'. Lewis's Topographical Dic­ derivation Orlach—an inch, which is an tionary of 1837 states that some years equally strange and unlikely name. prior to that some 600 people were em­ Woodtown (Baile na Coille or Town of ployed in the mills there. Some sources the Wood) also appears in some referen­ say that the proper name for Newtown ces as Balliekelly and Ballynakilly, all townland is in fact Craobhach na cloi- meaning the same thing. Woodtown che—the branchy or leafy place of the House was the seat of the Rt. Hon. cloch, the cloch in question being the Henry J oy, one time Chie f B aron of the cloch togala or of Mount Ve­ Irish Exchequer. nus. Scholarstown, alias Schoolers Town, An inquisition of 1620 refers to confis­ Schollarstonne and Scholardstown is cation of lands at Dromreagh, alias reputed to derive from the family name Ramsland, a possible misspelling for Scholard. Within the townlandis Beech Dromreagh, al. Gamesland (Games- Park, the residence of the ex-, town or Jamestown). The old name for . Last of the townlands Jamestown is therefore possibly Drom

3 Riabhach, the grey ridge, which may shogue River. The Little Dargle River have been anglicised to Rockbrook. flows northwards through . The other possible origin of Rockbrook Much of the area is mountainous and is of course the literal name taken sparsely populated. In 1837 the popu­ from the rocky brook which flows lation of Whitechurch parish was 1710 through the village. Mention has been and that of Cruagh 1216, whilst by 1841 made of the Owen Doher river. The the combined total was down to 2354. Irish spelling is Abhainn Dothair, the Readers will have noticed the two ancient Irish name for the Dodder into forms of spelling Marlay used in this which the Owen Doher flows at Rath- geographical description. Marlay ap­ farnham. It is curious that the tributary pears to be the correct spelling for the has taken the old name of the larger riv­ house and estate as this is the way in er. The second stream coming down which the bishop's name was spelt. through Kelly's Glen and along White- Marley Grange and the Marley Park Ho­ church Road has been called the River tel have adopted the slightly altered Glin, although an old map of the Kilma- version. shogue area refers to it as the Kilma-

Townlands included in Whitechurch Parish

Townland Area 1841 Pop A-R-P Ballyboden 125-3-12 134 Clarkstown 81-3-26 22 Cruagh 947-3- 6 167 Edmondstown 226-0-36 160 Glendoo 931-1- 1 10 Haroldsgrange 341-2-27 270 Jamestown 92-1-36 Killakee 661-0-27 130 Kilmashogue 1,409-2- 9 258 Newtown 450-0-30 243 Orlagh 43-2- 5 20 Stackstown 175-3-32 21 Taylorsgrange 451-3-39 58 Tibradden 842-3-31 243 Whitechurch 60-1- 6 64 Woodtown 488-3-33 166 Ballyboden—Town — 252 Edmondstown—Town — 136

Totals 7,333-2-36 2,354 Scholarstown* 200-2-39 75

7,534-1-35 2,429

*Scholarstown was included in the parish of in 1841.

4 GENERAL HISTORY

This section dealing with the earlier his­ of the thirteenth century, the lands of tory of the area is divided into two, cor­ Killakee passed to the Crown, Tibrad- responding with the old parish boun­ den remaining under the ownership of daries of Cruagh and Whitechurch. The Kilmainham Priory for a further two latter represented the eastern half of centuries. During the fourteenth centu­ the region, comprising the townlands ry, the Fitzgerald family were seized of of Ballyboden, Clarkstown, Edmonds- half a carucate in Tibroden plus a caru- town, Haroldsgrange, Kilmashogue, cate in Woodtown, until all were confis­ Stackstown, Taylorsgrange and White- cated on the attainder of Richard, Oli­ church, while Cruagh comprised the ver and Walter Fitzgerald. Perhaps at townlands of Cruagh, Glendoo, James­ this point some explanation should be town, Killakee, Newtown, Orlagh, Tib- given of the words attainder and caru­ radden and Woodtown. cate, neither of which are to be found The earliest reference, albeit vague, is in modern usage. An attainder was a to a church having existed on the site of loss of civil rights through conviction the present ruined church of Cruagh for high treason, while a carucate repre­ from the time of St Patrick. It is men­ sented as much land as a team of oxen tioned in the Tripartite in a reference to could plough in a season. During the Dalua of Craoibech, whom it describes sixteenth century the district was still as of St. Patrick's household. Following wild and uncivilised necessitating the on the Anglo-Norman conquest, we appointment of Sir Thomas Fitzwil- find the lands of Killakee in the posses­ liam as seneschal to try and subdue the sion of Walter de Rideleford who had natives. By the time of Henry VIII we lands in the adjoining Tallaght parish. find that the lands at Killakee had been At the same time the lands of Tibrad- given to Sir Thomas Luttrell, while the den were in part the property of the Cruagh and Tibradden districts came Priory of St. John at Jerusalem whilst under the ownership of Peter Talbot of the lands adjoining the church at Bulloch. Matters improved somewhat Cruagh were in the possession of the St. in the seventeenth century with much Michael family. In the year 1184 the of the land passing to the Loftus fami­ church at Cruagh was granted by Prince ly. In an inquisition of 1620, 'JohnTal- John to the See of Dublin and this was bott, late of Rathdowne, Co. , subsequently confirmed in 1337 by gent, was seised in fee amongst other King Edward. Under the ownership of lands of the town and lands of Tebro- the St. Michaels the lands at Cruagh dan alias Killmainhambegg 60 acres and were constituted a manor and in 1247 the town of Newtowne, alias Crevagh- David de St. Michael assigned his in­ neclogh et Crevaghnatemple, 100 terest in the lands to Sir Waleran de acres'. Another inquisition of the same Wellesley, a justice itinerant. The lands year shows that John Sutton of Tipper, were then held under the St. Michaels Co. was seised in fee of the by the Canons of All Saints Priory, a town of Crevaghneclogh, alias New­ house near the church being occupied town et Dromreagh alias Ramsland by John de Wodeloc. Towards the close (this latter could be a misspelling of

5 Gamesland, later Jamestown) one caru- of lands at Kilgobbin, witnessed a deed cate, the town of Tebrodan half acaru- concerning lands in Whitechurch cate, Woodtowne alias Ballinakillie et parish, while in the early part of the hamlet ejusdem tunc vocat, Ballinekis- fourteenth century members of the kin one carucate'. The Luttrell lands at clan occupied lands in Rathfarnham Killakee were granted by Parliament to and and as far north as Dr. , son of Sir Adam Harold's Cross which has retained the Loftus. family name to this day. The Harolds Following on the 1641 Rebellion subsequently became responsible for when heavy losses of both goods and the protection of the Pale and by all cattle were reported the population accounts they carried out their duties was returned as 113 with seven cottages faithfully in this regard but they were on the lands at Tibradden and James­ at the same time a lawless bunch. As an town. Early in the eighteenth century example, in 1462 the Archbishop of the Loftus lands were sold to Speaker Dublin, Michael de Tregury was held Connolly and later to the White family. and imprisoned by three of the Harolds We must now return once again to the and in 1463 the area around Dundrum period following on the Anglo-Norman was the scene of a raid when they killed invasion when the lands known as Bal- eight of the King's men and drove off geeth (Windy Town) roughly corres­ considerable numbers of cattle and ponding to the present Marlay Estate sheep. As has been mentioned else­ were granted to Thomas the Fleming, where, the barrier of the Pale ran across later passing to Robert de St. Michael the northern slope of Kilmashogue of Cruagh. Through the religious zeal of mountain and at one time the remains Robert's son David the lands passed to of a were to be seen near the pre­ the Abbey of St. Mary the Virgin and sent site of St. Columba's College, and the year 1189 found Pope Clement III which probably dated from the time confirming the church of Balgeeth of the Harolds occupation. In the year being annexed to this house. Arch­ 1518 John Harold built a watermill on bishop Allen in his Reportorium Viride the Kilmashogue lands and some fifty in 1530 states that Alba or Balgeeth is years later we find Edmund Harold appropriate to the Abbey. Other out­ living at Edmondstown, to which he lying lands in the Kilmashogue area doubtless gave his name. came into the possession of the Priory A document dated 1541 states that of the Holy Trinity during the thir­ the Abbey of the Blessed Virgin was teenth century. In 1335 the Manor of seised of arable and pasture lands, cot­ Ballyardor and Kilmashogue was leased tages and a watermill on the marches to Robert de Moenes, a merchant of of Dublin valued at £13-18-0. Eighteen Dublin, the occupants of the lands to years later, James Flattisbury of Johns­ assist in cutting and transporting turf. town suffered a recovery of one castle The De Moenes family were associated and an extensive area of lands in with which is in fact a deri­ Harold's Grange. Again, in 1612 an in­ vation of the family name. quisition found Florence, Baron of Up­ The first reference to the Harold fami­ per Ossory, seised of Harold's Grange, ly, with which the district is perhaps alias Grange Montana, alias Grange Bal­ most associated, is towards the middle geeth. The annual rent from this land of the thirteenth century. In the year had been levied along with tithes of 1247, Sir John Harold, Knight, owner corn, amounting to sixty pecks of oats

6 and wheat annually. In November 1641 ed, the nearest to the city being that at the lords, justices and council issued a Glencree, now occupied as a reconcilia­ warrant declaring 'that divers most dis­ tion centre. The Military Road passes loyal and malignant persons in Ireland right through the parish, being known had traitorously conspired against His as Stocking Lane at its most northerly Majesty', and in so doing had caused point as it was the last point where damage and destruction to property of troops could stock up before heading His Majesty's good and loyal subjects; uphill. Old maps indicate that the ori­ both horse and foot forces were to be ginal course of the road ran from mustered to resist, kill and slay all such Cruagh church along the avenue to Kil- traitors and their adherents. Following lakee House meeting the present road the civil war much profitable land was at the bad left-hand corner above Killa- forfeited, more than 70,000 acres in kee Restaurant—this diversion may County Dublin alone, nearly 11,000 nave been to ease the gradients. Anoth­ of this figure in the half of er possible route suggested to me was Rathdown. In 1723, Philip, Duke of that it started at the bottom of Stock­ Wharton and Marquis of Malmesbury ing Lane and along part of what is now and Carlow, having previously acquired known as Mount Venus Road before the Loftus estate through marriage, turning south and across the slopes of sold to the Rt. Hon. William Conolly Mount Venus onto the avenue to Killa- for a sum of £62,000 the castle, manor kee House. or lordship of estates, including Grange Lieutenant Archer's survey of the of Balgeeth, Little Newtown and Great county completed in 1801 gives an in­ Newtown. teresting insight into social conditions During the seventeenth and eighteenth of the time and it is worth quoting from centuries, land was of even more cen­ it at some length. 'Cottagers or those of tral importance than it is today, and in­ the lower rank, are numbers of them dustry, such as it was, was centredinthe wretchedly provided with habitations; main in the countryside. As the result the use of thatch also is too prevalent of confiscation of lands owned by the and is subject to many inconveniences. Irish, only one-seventh of the land was If one of their hovels shall be burned, in Catholic hands in 1702. Vagrancy, wretched as it is, a poor man is material­ begging and charity were often the only ly injured; the thatch is dearer than recourse for the worst off. The district slates or tiles in a length of time; it is a was under the care of Tallaght parish at harbouring also for vermin, that will do this time and an item of interest is that more injuries to his potatoes, meal and amongst other duties, the vestrymen of bread. the parish appointed a parish-officer 'A cottage constructed of good mason generally known as a 'bang-beggar'. His work, 6' or 7' high, 14' wide by 20' long duty was to see that none other than li­ with the roof slated might be erected censed beggars should exercise their for £12 or £14. A mud wall cabin with a calling. Unlicensed beggars were liable thatched roof done in the common slo­ to imprisonment. Following on the venly manner, will cost within £2 or £3 1798 Rebellion, the Military Road was ofit. constructed southwards deep into the 'The fuel of the lower classes is a scarce heart of to open up article in this country; some turf is to the area to British troops. A number of be had—in other parts hedges are demo­ fortified block-houses were construct­ lished without mercy and in many

7 places they gather the dung from about of the distribution of such dwellings in the fields and even burn straw. The the country as a whole an din three dis­ food of cottiers is potatoes and milk; tinct areas together with the parishes of occasionally they have stirabout made Cruagh and Whitechurch. For some un­ of oatmeal and water. The clothing of explained reason the parochial percen­ the lower rank is principally effected at tages are very different from the natio­ the fairs where they supply themselves nal and regional figures, although the with ratteens or frizes, the former being two parishes in isolation do show some­ sold at from bj= to 6/= a yard, the latter what similar trends. l at 3/3, to 4/= a yard; it takes about b A An interesting aspect dealt with in yards to make a coat and waistcoat. some detail in the 1841 census gives an 'Labourers' wages near the city are 8/= insight into the average life expectancy, to 9/= a week where constantly em­ which for the province of ployed, temporaries might get more in worked out at 32.0 for males and 31.5 harvest time. Potatoes are planted by years for females in rural areas and x piece-work at 3 /2d per perch of 21' in 25.0 and 25.4 respectively in civic length and 10' broad per ridge and fur­ areas. Of a total population of 282,804 row. The working day was from 6 a.m. in the province, no less than 8,916 to 6 p m. with 30 minutes for breakfast children aged five or under died of and 1 hour for dinner. During harvest- smallpoxin the years 1831 to 1841. time the day was from sunrise to sun­ It is further estimated that some 9,000 set'. people died of various fevers in Leinster In contrast to the foregoing, the follow­ in the years 1817 to 1819. So great was ing are the prices of some commodities the incidence of cholera that we find a in the Dublin market in April, 1801. separate Cholera Cess of one penny an acre being levied in the parish in 1832 Potatoes—1/9 per stone. and the old Whitechurch school records Milk—4d to 6d per quart. contain frequent references to the Oatmeal—4/8 per stone. whitewashing of the buildings in an at­ Beef—1 Od per pound. tempt to curb the spread of infection. Eggs—7/= per 100. Excessive rain, shortages of food, lack Bread— 1/= for 3 lbs 8 ozs. of heat and hygiene all contributed to the spread of disease. Beggars, men­ The Commissioners for the 1841 Cen­ tioned earlier, were carriers and an Act sus divided housing into four groups. of 1819 gave magistrates powers to ap­ Of these, the lowest category consisted prehend during the time of contagious of cabins mostly of mud and with only diseases, and to cause them and their one room. Approximately forty per apparel to be cleansed. cent of the total comprised this catego­ Failures of the potato crops occurred in ry, a further thirty-seven per cent fall­ three of the four years 1845 to 1848 ing into the next category, which were and we had one of the greatest natural marginally better with two to four disasters to hit this island—the Great rooms and windows. Category 2 com­ Famine. In all, one million people died prised good farm houses or in towns, from hunger and a further one million houses in a small street with five to nine emigrated. Emigration was to be a ma­ rooms and windows, while Category 1 jor feature of Irish life over the next fif­ represented anything better than nos. 2 ty years and by the time of the 1911 to 4. The table on p. 9 gives some idea census the population had declined to Distribution of Houses, 1841

Category (Rural) (Civic) Co. Dub Co. Kerry Co. Mayo Cruagh White- lin church 4th 43.5% 36.7% 28.8% 66.7% 62.8.% 1.62% 2.89% 3rd 40.0% 33.9% 36.8% 26.2% 32.7% 29.27% 35.12% 2nd 15.3% 22.4% 27.4% 6.5% 4.2% 53.66% 48.35% 1st 1.2% 7.0% 7.0% 0.6% 0.3% 13.82% 13.64%

half of its 1841 level. Another feature fore. As the Dublin suburbs have edged was the increase in urban population as out nearer to the Dublin mountains the people left the land to find steadier and population of the area has increased more lucrative employment. The indus­ dramatically, the majority of the new trial revolution, although not affecting residents travelling to the city or other this country to the same degree as, for suburbs to their employment. This has example, Great Britain, did neverthe­ put a tremendous strain on the network less assist in the shift away from the of communications and services. Roads land. originally built for the few horses and More dramatic changes haveoccurredin carriages of 100-odd years ago are prov­ the parish during the past ten years, and ing totally inadequate for today's are continuing to occur, than ever be- heavy motor traffic.

9 CHURCH HISTORY

The church at Cruagh stands on what is The only remaining portions of the believed to be the site of a church dat­ old Cruagh church still in existence at ing from the time of St. Patrick. Refer­ the turn of the present century were ence has already been made to the pos­ the end walls some 38'8" apart. Stand­ sible connection with that far-off ing partly on the site is an almost period some 1,500 years ago so this will rounded tower containing a vaulted not be repeated here. We have also seen under-storey several feet lower than the how the church was granted to the See ground and an upper room, there being of Dublin in 1184 and later assigned to no communication between the two. the Priory of St. John of Jerusalem in According to tradition it was built for Kilmainham. At the beginning of the the use of men guarding the graveyard seventeenth century, both Cruagh and from body-snatchers. Somewhat more Whitechurch were served by the vicar of the old Whitechurch on Whitechurch of Tallaght. The report of the 1615 Re­ Road survived. It consists of a nave 30' gal Visitation stated that both the by 16'3" with a chancel 22'4" by church and chancel at Cruagh were in 13'6", the walls being almost 3 feet good repair, but without books except thick. There were two plain window those which the curate brought with slits with lintelled splays in the west him. The church and chancel at White- gable with similar slits to each side of church were also in good repair. The the pointed chancel arch which is only latter church also dates back to at least 4 feet wide. There was a hole on each the twelfth century as it was granted to side of the door opening to take a slid­ the Abbey of the Blessed Virgin in ing bar. It has been partially restored 1189 under the name of Kilhunsin (Cill in recent years thanks to the efforts of Fhuinnsean or the Church of the . Ashes). It was also known variously as Ecclesia Alba, Church of Balgeeth New Whitechurch (Windy Town) and the Church in the By the 1820s moves were being made Marches. to have a church once again in White­ The half-century following the 1641 church and in September 1823 we find rebellion was a time of great upheaval Archbishop Magee of Dublin consent­ for the church in Ireland. Consequently ing to a new church being erected in we find in a list of rural parishes of the view of the fact 'that the cure of souls Dublin Diocese drawn up in 1702 that in Tallaght is of a very large extent and neither Cruagh nor Whitechurch have a the mother church of the union (Tal­ church in repair. The three parishes of laght) not being sufficient to accommo­ Cruagh, Tallaght and Whitechurch were date the number of inhabitants who re­ united into one parish by an Act of sort thither for Divine Worship and on Council in 1734 under the Deanery of account of the great distance many of Taney—an attempt had been made in them reside at'. So in July 1825 the 1701 to have the parish of Cruagh out Reverend Lundy Foot, who had been on its own again when Fleetwood Fish­ appointed Perpetual Curate of the new er was appointed vicar. parish of New Whitechurch, was grant-

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Ruins of Old Church, Whitechurch. (Author) NewWhitechurch: taken between 1869, when the chancel was added and 1876, when the Vestry Room was built. (Guinness Collection) ed a piece of ground comprising one side and a special sub-committee was rood and twenty-six perches on the instructed to obtain further estimates. Marlay Estate by John David LaTouche A month later, two new estimates were with William Caldbeck paying the price to hand, William Cockburn for £2,700 of the land. In return for the latter, and Mr. Shaw for £1,984. Mr. Moyers Caldbeck was later granted the free use then came back with a revised figure of of a pew in the new church. £l,845-14-81/2 and he was awarded the What appears to have been the first contract. The total cost was actually vestry meeting actually held in the £1,938-5-0, of which £830-15-0 came parish took placeinthehouse of Mr. Por­ by way of a gift from the Board of First ter on 23rd February 1824 when it was Fruits, the balance by way of a loan re­ unanimously resolved that the minister payable at four percent. Pending the and churchwardens be empowered to completion of the new building, church memorial the Board of First Fruits for a services were held in Mr. Taylor's facto­ loan of £1,200 towards the cost of ry at Newbrook Mill during 1823 and erecting a parish church on the site ap­ 1824 and in the schoolhouse from then proved. The two churchwardens had onwards. been elected at a vestry meeting held D'Alton in his 'History of Co. Dublin' two days earlier in Tallaght church— published in 1838 interestingly de­ these were John David LaTouche and scribes the church as being a very hand­ Jeffrey Foot. The latter died in Decem­ some structure with lancet windows ber 1824 and was replaced by William and situated on a splendid eminence. Porter of Willmount. By February This is interesting because in another 1825 agreement had been reached as to chapter he describes Kilternan church the design of the new church, that of as a 'tasteless edifice'. Maurice Craig John Semple being accepted. Semple in his book Dublin 1660-1860 de­ was now requested to obtain estimates scribes Semple's architecture as being for a church, including gallery, capable 'like cubist painting, everything being of accommodating 300 people. Little reduced to the severest geometry: but­ is known of John Semple although we tresses, pinacles, mouldings—every thing know that he replaced Joseph Welland is a contrast of planes. Scholarship and as architect to the Board of First Fruits orthodox notions of scale are flung to for the province of Leinster in 1825, the winds'. Craig goes on to say that it Welland resuming this post again in has been asserted that Archbishop 1833. We also know that he came from Magee in his later years suffered from a remarkable family of architects, delusions and refused to consecrate any bricklayers and architects, one of whom, church which was not capable of being George Semple, rebuilt Essex Bridge in used as a fortress, because he believed 1753. that the Protestant population was in In June 1825, two estimates were re­ danger of being massacred while at wor­ ceived, one from Mr. Lewis proposing ship. Hence, we are told, the extra­ to build the church, tower and spire, ordinary solidity of the Semple vestibules and vestry for the sum of churches. Other examples are Donny- £2,500, the second from Mr. Moyers brook, Monkstown, Rathmines, Kilter- for £2,167-13-7. The latter offered to nan and Tallaght as well as St. Mary's reduce his estimate by £200 if the ves­ Chapel of Ease in the city, otherwise try and spire were omitted. Both esti­ known as the Black Church. Another of mates were thought to be on the high Semple's designs is the Round Room in

13 Dublin's Mansion House, designed for masonry was to be the sum of £6.10.6. King George IV's visit in 1821. The two doors cost £2.0.0 each, com­ The church is built entirely of local plete with iron rimmed locks, whilst granite with a slated roof. The north the magnificent Gothic window came and south walls have tall lancet win­ out at £50-0-0 complete. dows, all originally with small leaded There are two stained glass windows, panes, the walls being divided into sec­ that on the south side having been tions by six buttresses on each side cor­ erected to the memory of the late responding with the interior transverse Colonel Hercules Rowley, for many arches. These arches perhaps surprising­ years a valued member of the Select ly are of timber plastered over to look Vestry. This magnificent window in­ like stone and serve no useful purpose corporates a scene from The Book of as they would be quite incapable of Revelation, Chapter 14 and Verse 13 load bearing. The west end with its high with the words T heard a Voice from arched entrance door is surmounted by Heaven saying unto me "Write from the bell tower and tall spire. One of the henceforth, Blessed are the Dead which original windows, somewhat short­ die in the Lord". Even so saith the Spi­ ened, can still be seen on the south wall rit for they rest from their labour.'The behind the reading desk from the time erection of a memorial window to com­ when the present vestry room was memorate the members of the parish added in 18 7 6. The erection of this use­ who gave their lives in the 1914—1918 ful addition to the building was the re­ War was considered in January 1920 sult of the generous gift from the fami­ and a suitable design was approved, ly of the late Courtney Kenny Clarke of Messrs. J. Clarke & Son being commis­ Hill, a brass plaque over the door sioned to provide a window at a cost leading into the vestry room comme­ not exceeding £100, to be erected on morating this fact. The unstained east the north side of the church, opposite window also consists of small leaded the Rowley window. Apparently the panes, although again this is not the ori­ window as fitted did not comply with ginal for the church as built did not the design approved as in November have the present chancel. What is now 1921 the contractor was instructed to the chancel arch was part of the original remove the figures included in the de­ end wall which contained a fine Gothic sign which departed from that inten­ style window with an oak sill. ded. Presumably this was done to the Some of the items in the original esti­ satisfaction of all concerned as there is mate and specification make interest­ no further reference in the minutes. ing reading; for example fourteen and a The window is dedicated to the memo­ half perches of mason work was to go ry of the following who made the su­ into the foundation of the tower, large preme sacrifice: blocks not less than three hundred­ Captain W.J. Davis-60th Rifles 1915 weights in weight to be bedded in mor­ 2nd Lieutenant E. Farren—Black tar. One marvels at the enormous task Watch 1915 of transporting and putting into posi­ Pte. Robt. McFadzean—Cameron High­ tion granite blocks of this size before landers 1915 the advent of motor vehicles and Lieutenant H. G. Killingley—Royal cranes—the workmen of that time Dublin Fusiliers 1916 were made of sterner stuff! The cost of Pte. G. Baldwin-Tank Corps 1917 the fourteen and a half perches of 2nd Lieutenant W. C. Tosdevon—

14 NewWhitechurch: original East Window. (Rep. Church Body) Northants Fusiliers 1917 occasion we are told 'several Koman A separate brass memorial to Lieu­ Catholics attended, some of whom re­ tenant Killingley, eldest son of the rec­ ceived the Sacrament of the Lord's tor, the Reverend D. F. Killingley, is Supper'. Prior to the opening, it had mounted on the wall immediately be­ been agreed that a sum of £10 per an­ low the window. num would be payable to the parish To return however to the early years, clerk and £5 to the sexton. A further the gallery was apparently not actually £5 was expended in May on Sacrament­ put in when the church was built as al Elements and £3-10-0 for parish cof­ payments totalling £58 were made to fins. During the early years it was found Mr. Moyers in 1834 for putting up a necessary to purchase additional items, new gallery in the church. The church £12 being paid to Mr. Fletcher for lace was consecrated by the Archbishop of for the pulpit, communion table and Dublin on 3 June 1827 as a Chapel of reading desk. Four plates for Sunday Ease in the parish of Tallaght, on which collections were purchased for two shil-

15 Scale of fees adopted by Select Vestry in April 1828

Minister Clerk Sexton Bell-ringer Marriages by Licence. £1-0-0 5-0 2-6 Marriages by Bann. 5-0 2-6 1-0 Funerals of Parishioners. 3-0 2-6 - Funerals of non-Parishioners. 6-0 3-6 - Desk Service (additional). 10-0 2-6 2-6 Head stone for Parishioners. 10-0 2-6 - Head stone fcr non-Parishioners. £1-0-0 5-0 - Flat stone for Parishioners. £2-2-0 3-0 - Flat stone for non-Parishioners £4-4-0 6-0 - Tomb for Parishioners £5-5-0 10-0 - Tomb for non-Parishioners. £10-10-0 £1-0-0 - Railing about tomb for Parishioners. £5-5-0 10-0 - Railing about tomb for non-Parishio £10-10-0 £1-0-0 . ners. Vault for every 2 coffins it may be con- £2-12-6 10-6 structed to contain (Parishioners) Vault for every 2 coffins itmaybecon- £5-5-0 £1-1-0 structed to contain (non-Parishioners) Memorial stone within or without side £5-5-0 10-6 of church for Parishioners. Memorial stone within or without side £10-10-0 £1-1-0 of church for non-Parishioners. Churching. 1-6 Making a large grave. 2-6 Making a small grave. 1-8 When ordered to make one deeper 7-6 than usual or to remove coffins. For every Marriage or Funeral for 2-0 which he tolls The above fees to remain in force during the incumbency of the Reverend George Browne

16 lings each in August 1831, whilst anew letter from the Ecclesiastical Commis­ bell rope cost 4/6V2d in June 1834, at sioners in May 1868 offered £100 which time 200 Scripture text books towards the expense and it was follow­ cost 12/=. There was a robbery from ing that that it was decided to proceed the church in 1835 and a printed adver­ accordingly. Licence was granted for tisement offering a reward cost 7/6. It services to be held in the schoolhouse is not recorded whether or not the cul­ as from 29th September 1868 and in prit was apprehended. fact the church remained closed until Regular requests were made in these July of the following year. In the mean­ early days for assistance for poor time, a further alteration was decided people in the parish; thus we find 2/6 upon, namely the provision of a new being paid to a family distressed by the entrance door on the southside of the want of work in 1829 and 5/= being church (the Funeral Door) and the re­ paid for the admission of a poor blind moval of the organ gallery. In May boy into the Richmond Institution, the 1870 we find the Select Vestry discuss­ latter with a note appended to the ef­ ing correspondence between the War­ fect that the 5/= will probably be re­ den of St. Columba's College and the paid by subscription. A Sunday Collec­ incumbent on the subject of a proposed tion Account Book commencing on union between the college and the 9th November 1839 lists at the begin­ parish. The decision was that on no ac­ ning six poor Protestants receiving count would the vestry consent to the weekly pecuniary relief out of these identity of the parish being merged into collections at the rate of 1/6 each. In that of the college. A similar suggestion September 1843 the sum of £1 was was made in May 1941 at which time given to Henry McCullagh, a paper a similar reply was given. In 1871 the maker, who was emigrating to America, Diocesan Council suggested that the while his wife received 5/= to enable parish of Cruagh could be more approp­ her to follow him in July 1844. In Dec­ riately united with that of Whitechurch ember the same year Mrs. Gilly received rather than with Tallaght. The few Pro­ 6/= to enable her to thatch her house, testant families residing in Cruagh regu­ and Catherine Hewitt 4/= in May 1847 larly attended Whitechurch and the vi­ to bury her father. In the latter con­ car had been gratuitously looking after text, coffins were frequently purchased their pastoral care. out of parish funds for the poor. It is The Tallaght Select Vestry 'could not difficult in our present comparatively see any occasion for the severance of affluent times to realise how hard life the long established union ... nor do we really was in Ireland at that time. As we approve of the hasty changes in the old have seen elsewhere, the two principal landmarks of an Irish Church without rivers running through the parish had a advantage or necessity'. Despite their number of mills which had by now objections, approval was given for the closed down and of course the famine merger. At this time also the townland years from 1845 onwards aggravated of Scholarstown, previously included the problem. The question of a chancel in Rathfarnham parish, was transferred being added to the church was first to Whitechurch bringing it up to its pre­ raised at the annual Easter Vestry held sent extent. Steps were taken at the on Easter Monday 1867, when the in­ close of 1875 to regularise the position cumbent was directed to obtain plans regarding accommodation for the in­ and estimates for such an extension. A cumbent with an offer being made to

17 let the house and adjoining land occu­ the church with hot water pipes at a pied by The Reverend Carr for twenty- cost of £85. one years at a rent of £21 per annum. In June 1915, due to the poor state of In March 1901 Mr. Robert Tedcastle the parish finances, the Select Vestry of Marlay very kindly offered to pur­ found it necessary to adopt certain cu­ chase the interest in the lease of Grange rative measures. It was decided to dis­ House and lands, in which the vicarage pense with the services of the organist was situated, and then to sell the latter while Miss Malley, the schoolteacher, portion to the parish, and this was in was advised of the necessity for reduc­ fact done, the final transfer being made ing school expenditure. in September 1902. For those unaware These measures could not in them­ of its location the old vicarage was si­ selves have made much of a change in tuated on the Grange Road almost op­ the finances as for example the organ­ posite to the main entrance to Marlay ist's salary was only £30 per annum. In Park. January 1920, the sexton Thomas Minor improvements and additions Moore, requested an increase in his were made to the church over the years. wages to make good the loss in the pur­ In 1873 a Mr. Elwin very kindly offered chasing power of money and it was a gift of a brass reading desk for the agreed that his wages should be in­ communion table. Whilst fully appre­ creased from 12/= to 17/= a week. Loss ciating his kind motive and acknow­ of spending power is not such a new ledging the feeling which prompted phenomenon after all! Lively and him to give it, the Select Vestry found lengthy discussions occurred in Novem­ it necessary to decline the offer as they ber and December 1930 relating to the expressed their opposition to anything appointment of an organist—presumab­ being placed on the table. Five years ly a replacement rather than there not later they had a change of heart and we having been one since the 1915 cut­ find the reading desk in question being backs. A Mr. Ruddock was appointed accepted. in December but his stay was a short A further change was the provision of one as he resigned in June of the follow­ handsome Majolican tiling for the wall ing year. Five years later the replace­ at the back of the communion table. ment was requested to resign, apparent­ The tiling was subsequently extended ly as the choir was not up to the stan­ to other areas of the church, which led dard required. one parishioner on her first visit to the Little of note happened during the next church in 1926 to liken it to a rather twenty years or so. In October 1949 superior bathroom. There was also the question of the electrification of much red velvet, hanging oil lamps and the church was being considered and choir stalls in the chancel. On Sundays this work was completed before the these were occupied by ladies wearing year's end at a cost of £172 odd. By the large hats fashionable in the late 1950 fairly extensive repairs were be­ 1920s and the clergy tended to get lost coming necessary to the church, esti­ behind them. There are recurring refer­ mates for £1,100 being received. In ences to problems with the heating sys­ view of the fact that such funds were tem. The stove in use up to 1878 was not available it was decided to forego felt to be totally inadequate and quite some of the repairs, only those that unequal to distributing proper heat, were really necessary to prevent undue and it was decided in that year to heat deterioration being carried out at this

18 time. The church was consequently successful were the various fund-raising closed in January 1952, services once events that the debt was again being held in the schoolhouse. Be­ cleared by September 1970. fore it was re-opened the suggestion Little of note has occurred during the was put forward that when it was being past twelve years except for the en­ re-dedicated it should be renamed in couraging fact that the church popula­ the name of a Saint, but this matter was tion is on the increase, and at a substan­ never followed up. tial rate. Many new housing-estates off In May 1964 the select vestry heard the Grange Road and in Ballyboden that the vicar had been asked twice if have brought an influx and it is hoped the vicarage was for sale and it prompt­ this will continue, although it has ed the idea that it should be sold and a brought problems in other directions, new site acquired nearer the church on for example in the necessity for a new which a new vicarage could be erected. school. Only a month later it was reported that Youth organisations such as the Brow­ the paddock adjoining the Moravian nies, Cubs, Guides and Scouts, which cemetery and owned by the Moravians were closed down some years ago due might be available and it was subse­ to lack of numbers, are now all thriving. quently agreed that this site should be The Sunday School for young children purchased. Legal complications arose is also very healthy and a new innova­ regarding the identity of the superior tion has been a Nativity Play performed landlord of the Moravian site and this immediately after Christmas by the slowed progress somewhat so that it children in each of the last three years. was not until 19th November 1966 that It is to be hoped that this will become a the blessing of the new vicarage occur­ regular feature in the church's calendar. red. The old vicarage was in the interim The graveyard adjoining the church in­ sold to a Mrs. Goodbody and Grange cludes the graves of a number of local House to the occupying tenant Major people of importance.—Annie P. F. C. Crozier. In the period between the Smithson, the noted writer who died in sale of the old house and the comple­ 1948, William Hughes of Hazelbrook tion of the new, the rector lived in the and of Hughes Brothers Dairy, Gerda Dower House on the Marlay Estate. Frohmel (Schurman), the celebrated By 1968, major repairs and renovations sculptress and her daughter Natascha to the church had become essential and who was tragically drowned in 1959 at unfortunately this was at a time when the age of two. Sir Frederick Moore of the Church of Ireland population of the Willbrook House, one time Director of area had dropped to its lowest for many the Botanic Gardens, , and years. It was estimated that the repairs the parents of Barbara Woodhouse, the would cost not less than £5,000subse­ television canine expert, are buried quently this came out at around here. Barbara Woodhouse herself spent £6,000. It was decided however to some years in St. Columba's College, as launch an appeal for funds and various her father was Warden of the college. separate fund-raising events were orga­ One resident is a badger who is occa­ nised. In August 1968 arrangements sionally seen in the late evening as he were made to close the church for three ventures forth for his evening meal. months and through the kindness of the Warden, services were held in the Incumbents chapel of St. Columba's College. So Following the setting up of the new

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Aerial view of New Whitechurch. Stables on right and Grange Golf Club behind Church parish of Whitechurch, the Reverend rick from 1904 until 1910. He was ap­ Lundy Footwasappointedin 1826tobe pointed Archdeacon of Aghadoe in its first perpetual curate. Foot was the 1885, a position he held until his death son of Jeffrey Foot,merchantofDublin in May 1912. He has been described as and a member of the family connected something of a mystic, some people with Orlagh and Holly Park. He entered thinking him more suited for the study Trinity College Dublin in October 1810 than the parish, although he was also at the age of seventeen and was or­ acknowledged as an excellent pastor. dained in 1823. He married Elizabeth As mentioned, Wynne was succeeded Vicars of Brownsford, County Kilken­ by James Anderson Carr from Holly­ ny in November 1817 and she had three wood. He was the son of Patrick Carr, a sons by him before her death in March gentleman, from Cork. Ordained in 1825. After moving to Whitechurch he 1858 he was successively curate of Bag- married Harriet, daughter of the Reve­ gotrath (1858-9), Carlow (1859-61), rend J. W. Cunningham in November Kilnaughtin Union (1861-2) and Tul- 1827. He departed from Whitechurch lamelan (1862-70), becoming rector of in 1829 for Salisbury in in England and the latter parish in 18 7 0. He remained in died in Dorset on 5th January 1873. Whitechurch until his death on 26th He was succeeded at Whitechurch by October 1900 at the age of sixty-five. George Browne, fifth son of the Right He married Anna Maria Fry of Clyde Honourable Denis Browne. Born in Road, Dublin and had thirteen child­ Mayo in May 1803, he was ordained in ren. He became a canon of Christ 1826 and remained as curate of the par­ Church Cathedral in 1895 and was for ish until 1839. He married Elizabeth twenty-two years the editor of the Irish Anne, only daughter of the Reverend Ecclesiastical Gazette. He was des­ Edward Day of Beaufort, County Ker­ cribed as a moderate high churchman. ry and had five sons and two daughters. David Francis Killingley succeeded, He moved to Lincoln in 1840. Next was and remained at Whitechurch until Saunders Barton from Kilkenny who 1940. Despite his long sojourn in came to Whitechurch at the age of Whitechurch little is known of the Rev­ thirty-one. He married Mary, daughter erend Killingley, except that he was or­ of John Davis of Baggot Street in Feb­ dained in 1890 and came to the parish ruary 1843. He died in the parish on from the diocese of Ferns. He died in 12th June 1864 and was succeeded by England in February 1947. The induc­ George Robert Wynne. Wynne was the tion service for the Reverend Maurice son of George Wynne of Hazelwood, Handy took place on 17th July 1941 and was born in Dublin with twelve choir boys from St. Colum- on 6th March 1838. He was curate of ba's College attending. Maurice Arthur St. Anne's parish in Dublin from 1862 Handy, younger son of the Reverend before taking up his post in White­ Leslie Handy, was educated at St Co- church two years later. He only re­ lumba's College and Trinity College, mained seven years, exchanging Dublin. Ordained in 1926, he was curate parishes with his successor James Carr of St. Stephen's, Dublin (1927-36), in 1871. He remained in Hollywood, head of T.C.D. mission in (1936- County Down, from 1871 to 1880 and 9) and curate of Donnybrook (1939- from there he travelled south to be­ 41). He was appointed a canon of Christ come rector of Killarney from 1880 un­ Church Cathedral in 1963 and departed til 1904, and of St. Michael's in Lime­ from Whitechurch on his appointment

22 as Warden of the Church's Ministry of Whilst a priest in the church of Hippo, Healing in 1965. Canon Handy retired Augustine erected there a monastery in officially on 1st August 1976 but still a garden given him by his bishop. The gives of his time in Whitechurch. Augustinian Institute spread rapidly Robert Grattan Love, ordainedin 1941, from this monastery and planted deep came to the parish in 1965 following roots throughout Africa. No less than terms of office as curate in Enniskillen ten of his companions at Hippo were from 1943 to 1945, Ballinaclash in destined to become bishops and they in 1945, and from 1945 to 1950, turn erected similar monasteries. Later, becoming rector of Leixlip in the latter monasteries of the Augustinian type year. Mr. Love died in office in April were founded in Italy, Spain and Gaul. 1976. His eleven-year term was a dif­ The Augustinian Order as it is known ficult one with the parish at an all- today, whilst owing its existence to time low as regards membership and Augustine some 1,600 years ago, can be extensive repairs required to the said to date from the year 1256 when church. In 1976 the parish was grouped representatives from the various con­ with Rathfarnham and the present in­ gregations met in Rome and elected cumbent, the Reverend Horace McKin- one superior-general. From that time ley, was installed as vicar on 7th Sep­ expansion was both rapid and intense, tember 1976. Son of the Venerable so much so that by the close of the thir­ George McKinley, he was ordained teenth century, provinces were to be in July 1970 and spent the following found all over , England, Ireland six years as curate in the adjoining and the Holy Land. In the sixteenth parish of Taney. Whitechurch once century much of Central and South again became a parish in its own right in America had been visited as well as In­ January 1981, since which time Mr. dia, the Philippines and Japan. McKinley has held the title of rec­ The Augustinians came to Ireland with tor. It is comforting to note that the the Anglo-Normans, founding their parish is now expanding at a fast rate, first house in Dublin about the year so much so that it may be found neces­ 1280. Within seventy years there were sary to hold a second service on Sunday friaries at various centres around the mornings within the next five years or country, including Cork, Drogheda, so. Long may this expansion continue. , Ballinrobe and Naas. Though some of these houses were founded by The Augustinians and Orlagh noble patrons, the Augustinians came St. Augustine was born in Tagaste in primarily to serve the common people. Numidia on 13th November 354 AD, During their first hundred years in Ire­ his father Patritius being a pagan al­ land close contact was maintained with though his mother had been converted the English provinces. When the latter to Christianity and it was from her that were destroyed during the Reforma­ he learnt a love of Christ. He was a very tion, the religious remained in Ireland, talented child and made good progress forced to live among the ruins of their in his studies. Although for a while his friaries, jealously studying means to beliefs wavered, he was eventually bap­ avoid being discovered. Many friaries tised in 387, shortly after which he set were suppressed by Henry VIII and by off to North Africa where he lived for 1542 only seven of the original twenty- three years in monastic retreat. He was two remained. The year 1613 saw the elected a bishop in 396. upsurge of the movement with the re-

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The Reverend George Wynne, Incumbent of Whitechurch, 1864-1871. (Guinness Collection) turn to Ireland of one Dermot for the first few days of the Easter Ris­ McGrath. Although they were to suffer ing. again in Cromwell's time, the Order During the 1950s a need arose for fur­ survived well and by the eighteenth ther accommodation and rather than century Augustinians were once again extend the buildings at Orlagh a site travelling abroad as missionaries. was purchased in Ballyboden at the cor­ We now move ahead to 16thjuly 1872 ner of Taylor's Lane where a separate when Orlagh House was purchased house for students was constructed. from Carew O'Dwyer by the Augus- Subsequently all of the archives of the tinian Order (see pp 46-7 for the earlier Order in Ireland were transferred to history of the house). This acquisition Ballyboden. The Augustinians' stay in fulfilled a long desired wish for a Novi­ this building has been short-lived, how­ tiate for the Irish Province, as prior to ever, as it has been sold to the Eastern this time it had been found necessary riealth Board and is due to be vacated to send the young priests to Rome and this year. A smaller building more suit­ from 1863 onwards to Ghent in Bel­ ed to the needs of the Augustinians is gium. This latter closed down following being built on an adjoining site. In 1973 the purchase of Orlagh. Upper stories a new departure was the setting up of a were added to the centre wing of the new parish at Ballyboden by Arch­ house in 1872/3 to provide room for bishop Ryan to be administered by the the novices and a new wing was added Augustinian Fathers, the first Dublin in 18 8 7, c on taining the present Oratory parish to be so administered. with its impressive choir stalls. During Formed of portions of the parishes of O'Dwyer's time a new east wing had Ballyroan, Bohernabreena- been added, the larger of the two and Rathfarnham, the northern boun­ rooms, now the novices' common dary of the parish is below Fonthill room, having tapestries from Marie Park extending south to take in an area Antoinette's room at the Tuileries. bounded on the east by Whitechurch When Louis Philippe altered the Tuile­ Road and on the west by Ballyboden ries apartments, the tapestry was put Road, the reservoir and Stocking Lane. on sale and purchased by O'Dwyer. It in fact embraces a large portion of The drawing room, which now serves the area of the Church of Ireland White- as the dining room, has an ornate ceiling church parish, the remainder of the lat­ figuring bunches of grapes with vine ter including Ballyroan to the south leaves executed by the famous artificer and Marlay in the north-east corner. On of hand painting, Cesar. O'Dwyer also Sunday 4th October 1981 the new added a small Gothic chapel displaying Church of Our Lady of Good Counsel rare specimens of fifteenth- and six­ was dedicated by Dr. Dermot Ryan, teenth-century glass. O'Dwyer was res­ Archbishop of Dublin, on behalf of the ponsible for the landscaping of the Augustinians. The new church was de­ grounds and had the stream which pas­ signed by Messrs. Keane Murphy Duff ses through them incorporated into an and built by Matthew Wallace Ltd. The oval pond. In the 1950s the then Prior parish priest is Father Leo O'Sullivan, had this pond converted into a swim­ O.S.A. ming pool. Among famous visitors to Orlagh have been Daniel O'Connell and Church of the Divine Word Patrick Pearse. Eoin McNeill of 1916 In June 1974, Father Aidan Burke was fame was given refuge and slept there appointed to the parish of Churchtown

25 #

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Church of the Divine Word, Marley, 1982. (Author) with special responsibility for the new­ family and the manor house became a ly developing Marlay district, being Servite seminary in 1949. As a result of joined in June 1978 by Father Paul Vatican II it was decided that students Kenny. In June 1981 the foundation for the priesthood should become more stone of a new church was laid by involved in everyday life and conse­ Archbishop Ryan. The architect was quently the Servites decided to set up Don Henihan and the building con­ a student house in Dublin, Benburb to tractors to whom the contract was be used as a base for retreats and semi­ awarded were Anthony McDonald & nars of religious groups. Initially a Sons Ltd. Such was the pace of the house was purchased in St. Kevin's work that the Church of the Divine Park, , but this soon proved in­ Word was dedicated by Archbishop adequate, being of limited size and Ryan only six months after the laying lacking grounds, so the search began for of the foundation-stone, on 6th De­ more suitable accomodation. cember 1981. Thus two new churches The Russian Foreign Service had been were opened for worship within a mile considering the purchase of Elm Park or so of one another within the short House on Grange Road for use as an space of two months—surely an indica­ embassy but subsequently decided not tion of the way in which the local popu­ to proceed with the purchase. The lation is expanding. exact reasons for this decision are un­ known but it may have been due to its The Servite Order distance from the city and the airport, The Servants of Mary, more popularly although they did of course subse­ known nowadays as the Servite Order, quently take up residence in nearby or more simply as the Servites, began in Churchtown. However, the builders the year 1233 when seven men of the who at the time owned Elm Park House Italian city of Florence formed a reli­ and were building new houses in the gious community at Cafaggio, near area decided to dispose of the property Florence. All were lay people at the at a lower figure than previously and time of its foundation, although six of the Servites purchased the house and the founders subsequently became two acres of land adjoining. Elm Park priests. With the blessing of Pope Alex­ House was converted to accommodate ander IV the community became an the Order's Irish students,although for Order of Friars Minor in 1256, having a time it did include students from as far moved some years earlier to a new loca­ afield as , America, Africa and tion at MountScenario.lt was,however, Germany. Prior to this, Elm Park House to be almost 700 years before the Order had been in the occupation of Mrs. established itself in Ireland, perhaps Jobling-Purser and prior to 1962 for feeling their presence was unnecessary many years of Mr. Denis Phibbs. Re­ in the Land of Saints and Scholars! curring references to Elm Park appear In 1947 Father James Keane, O.S.M., in the Whitechurch vestry records as an Irish-American Servite, made the de­ the property adjoined Grange House, cision to establish a community in Ire­ both properties being responsible for land which he did in Benburb, County the maintenance of a weir and sluice­ Tyrone, despite opposition from both gate, both long since disappeared. his American colleagues and some of the Irish bishops. The land at Benburb The Moravians was purchased from the Powerscourt In 1457 a group of people in the king-

27 dom of Bohemia (now part of Czecho­ preaching that they invited him over to slovakia), protesting against the moral Dublin where he arrived on 3rd June corruption and political activity of the 1746. He made a big impression here Roman there, with­ too, so much so that a Moravian congre­ drew to the village of Kunwald, where gation was set up here in 1750 and they established a community based on within a few years 40 preaching places the principles of the Sermon on the were established and 18 churches built Mount. They called themselves The throughout the country. One of the Unity of the Brethren (Unitas Fratrum early ministers in Dublin was the Reve­ in Latin) which is still the official name rend John Tellschig, anative of Moravia, of the Moravian Church. They with­ who was appointed Provincial Elder of drew from the Church of Rome in 1467, the work in Ireland and he remained thus becoming the first independent here until his death in 1764. He was in Protestant church, and spread over the fact the first to be interred in the burial- kingdoms of Bohemia and Moravia to ground beside Whitechurch Vicarage. embrace one-third of the population. The Moravian Church in Dublin was In 1620 Protestantism was overthrown built about this time in Bishop's Street in Bohemia and the Moravian Church with an entrance fronting on to Kevin ceased to exist in the land of its birth Street. The building is now in the occu­ until this century, but it was not the pation of Messrs. Boylan, the leather end for it was carried on secretly in re­ merchants. Over the front door can still mote village areas of Moravia. In 1722 be seen the Moravian emblem of the some of its members fled to Saxony Lamb and the Flag. In 1818 the minis­ and settled on the estate of a Lutheran ter was the Reverend Holmes, a Dane, nobleman, Count Zinzendorf, and he at which time there were about 250 was so impressed by them that he members. joined them and became their leader. There was an Alms House in White friar As early as 1732 missionaries of the Street, being a bequest of Andrew Mol- Church sailed abroad and Moravians ler, who left a sum of money to provide first settled in North America in 1735. the inmates with coal and candles, and The church is now to be found world­ in the 1820's it housed 13 widows and wide, in North and Central America, aged females. In 1810 the same And­ South and East Africa, Europe, India rew Moller bequeathed all his estate and the West Indies. It is a member of and interest in a holding at White- the Free Church Federal Council and a church in trust to sell or otherwise dis­ constituent member of the World Coun­ pose of or to pay the yearly profits in cil of Churches. moieties, one amongst the United Bre­ As far as this country is concerned, the thren of London for the furtherance Moravian Church dates back to themid- of the Gospel among the heathens, the 1700's. In the 1740'saMissionmetina other lor the support of the poor be­ hall in Skinner's Alley in the vicinity of longing to the Dublin congregation. St. Luke's Church in the Liberties area This land included the burial-ground led by a young Trinity graduate, Benja­ which had been purchased from a mill min LaTrobe. He and another young owner early in the 1760's. As already man travelled to London to join the mentioned the Reverend Tollschig was army and whilst there heard John Cen- the first to be interred—he must have nick, the Moravian evangelist, speak. been very popular as it is reported that They were so impressed by the latter's more than 500 people followed his cof-

28 fin from Kevin Street to Whitechurch, a of children of all religious persuasions formidable journey 220 years ago. The in the New Testament without note or plot of land on which the Vicarage now comment, to be read on those days by stands was in fact purchased from the all who had made sufficient proficiency Moravians. An interesting point about in reading. The school was to open on the Moravian Cemetery is that the Saturdays from 10.00 a.m. to 1.00 p.m. males are buried on one side of the cen­ for the religious instruction of the tral path, the females on the other, Protestant inhabitants of the parish. whilst all the gravestones lie flat, level Those children who were taught spell­ with the ground. There are various sto­ ing, reading, writing and arithmetic ries regarding the Moravians' method of and recommended by a subscriber were burying the deceased, as for example to pay one penny per week each, whilst that they are buried either sitting or those whose parents were desirous that standing. Apart however from the se­ they should be instructed in the higher gregation of the sexes, Moravians are branches such as English grammar, geo­ buried in exactly the same manner as graphy, history, geometry, navigation everybody else. and mensuration should pay from 2d to After more than 230 years of work and 6d per week each, as the committee witness the Synod of the British Pro­ might direct. One wonders how many vince, meeting in London in July 1980, children at that period in time would resolved in accordance with the wishes have been entered for these additional of the few remaining members in Dub­ subjects. lin to remove the name of the congre­ Moves had by now been made towards gation from the official roll of the building a school and a letter was re­ Churches of the British Province. Con­ ceived from The Right Honorable Hen­ sequently, the Dublin congregation ry Goulbourne to the effect that the ceased to exist on 31st December 1980. Lord Lieutenant had, on condition that The Reverend John Berry and his wife a grant of land be made by Mr. La now live in retirement in Dublin and Touche and a schoolhouse built to an in touch with the remaining Mora­ approved plan at a cost of not less than vians in the city, and it is to him that I £250, graciously approved a grant of am indebted for the information to £125. A further grant of £100 came enable me to compile the foregoing. from the Kildare Place Society. Other­ wise known simply as The Society, it Whitechurch School was founded in 1811 with the stated The earliest record in existence of the purpose of promoting undenomina­ school is of a meeting of the School tional education in Ireland, especially Management Committee held on 29th among the poor. These aims coincided September 1823 to draw up certain with government thinking of the time, rules. The chairman was John David La so requests for financial assistance were Touche, the secretary Lundy Foot and favourably received. Between 1816 and others present were John Taylor, 1831 almost £250,000 of public Joseph Jackson and Simon Foote. It money was granted to the Society and was resolved that the school should be the number of schools under its aegis called The White Church Free School grew from 8 to 1,621 in that period. and it was to be held on Mondays to Three members of the LaTouche family Fridays each week from 10.00 a.m. un­ were numbered among the first com­ til 3.00 p.m. for the general instruction mittee. The school later had connec-

29 I m

r tions with the London Hibernian So­ that day there was a to.ral of one hun­ ciety. dred children on the regist ~r„ Thursday, With these grants on offer, it was there­ 14th May 1835 was extremely cold and fore resolved that the treasurer should wet with only 22 out of 69 attending. now call in the subscriptions to ascer­ Matters were even worse in the follow­ tain the precise sum which the parish ing two months. On 18th June—a great would need to expend and a separate holiday with the Catholics ace ording to school account was opened with the the entry in the book—only 12 out of La Touche bank. The school was opened 94. The number on register seemed to on 7th October 1823,thecombinedsala- vary a lot from week to week, from ries of the schoolmaster and mistress which it would appear that children for the quarter ending 30th June 1825 were probably registered from week to amounting to £7-10-0. Some further week rather than for a term at a time. items of expenditure during this early The week ending 1 0th July was bad due period include the following: to haymaking, the Rathfarnham fair December Straw for and adverse weather. Two interesting 1826 bonnet mak entries, on 17th and 24th July, give ing. some idea of the ill-feeling between the April 182 7 Whitewash- religious factions. On the 17th, the ing school. priests of the parish prevented the chil­ December 16 Bonnets dren from attending, fearing that they 1827 for children should come to the light! This state­ @ 1/6 each. ment is followed by the teacher's own Easter 18 months comment—'how long will such a state 1835 supply of of things continue?' A week later only coal. 8 attended, the priests having met the In January 1835, Mrs. Hutchinson children returning trom school and the schoolmistress was receiving given them orders not to come again. £2-1-8 a month, while Mr. Davies the ~nere were further difficulties when on schoolmaster was being paid £4-3-4. 21st April 1836, the 'Roman Catholic The whitewashing of the school was a children refusedjoining in prayer at the regular expenditure over the years and opening of the school day', the follow­ had nothing to do with the name of the ing day refusing to enter the school un­ school! As has been mentioned else­ til prayers were over. The dispute was where, contagious illnesses ravaged the presumably resolved to the satisfaction population in the years prior to the fa­ of both sides as there is no further men­ mine, as a result of whichmeasureswere tion of the matter. taken to try and prevent their spread, A census carried out by the Commis­ hence the frequent whitewashing. The sion of Public Instruction in 1835 earliest school attendance books still shows four schools in Whitechurch pa­ available date from 1834. On Wednes­ rish. First, the above school supported day, 5th January of that year theschool by a collection at an annual charity ser­ was visited by the Reverend William mon in the church together with sub­ Johnstone who heard the fourth class scriptions from children. Secondly, read the lesson on the danger of disobe­ there was an infant school in connection dience from the Dublin Reading Book, with the former, which was in fact situ­ one of the standard learning books sup­ ated in Rockbrookandhad 18 males and plied by the Kildare Place Society. On 20 females on the register. The infant

31 school was to be supported entirely out cil cases. of the Sunday collections in the church, (1/4). 3/4V2. the school fundbeingfoundscarcely suf­ 20th Dec- Articles of ficient to maintain the daily schools. A ember, clothing for daily school was established in August 1840 lOpoorPro- or September 1834 by one Francis Da­ testant child­ niel with an average daily attendance ren attending of 70 to 80 and supported by payments the Day from the children of Id or 2d per week, School. £3-5-5. producing about 5/= plus 5/= a week Tailor's bill collected in the parish by the Catholic for making 4 clergymen. Lastly, a daily cabin school suits for (one of the hedge schools) was kept by children. 11/7. one Hussey, with 8 males and 4 or 5 fe­ Christmas gifts of clothing to the males, payments of 3/= to 6/- a week schoolchildren were a regular feature being made. All of the schools taught until a resolution was passed by the Se­ reading, writing and arithmetic, the lect Vestry on 18th April 1870, to the parish school additionally teaching effect that this should be discontinued needlework to the girls. Where had all and in its place the incumbent should those additional higher branch subjects announce that a 'School Reward Fund' gone? would be opened and all children in­ The School Account Book commenc­ vited to subscribe weekly to it. The ing in November 1839 gives some fur­ parishioners should then be requested ther interesting insight into prices in at Christmas to contribute to the fund those far-off days as well as into some for the future encouragement of those of the material used in the schools, viz. who have paid regularly. 9th Nov- 1 week's sala- In 1877 James Bourke retired after fif­ ember, ry to Emily teen years as schoolmaster due to ill 1839 Butler, in­ health, and a parting gift of £45-8-0 was fant school­ collected from a number of parishion­ mistress. 6/=. ers. In the same year the school was 30th Nov- 1 Packer ink placed under the National Board of ember, powder. 5d. Education and a new mistress, Miss 1839 Jane Wheeler, was appointed at a salary 15th Dec- Vk doz. cot- of £40 per annum, to be assisted by her ember, ton reels sister Adelaide. In April 1887 Miss 1839 @2^d. 1/3. Wheeler requested leave of absence to xh hundred go to the Teacher Training College for needles. 6d. six months to enable her to obtain a 1st March, 100 quills. certificate but her request was appa­ 1840 1/=. rently rejected, as in June we find the 100 slate Select Vestry considering three candi­ pencils. dates for the post, Miss Tuthill subse­ (6^2(1). quently being appointed. Miss Tuthill 3 quire of pa- resigned in 1896, to be replaced for a per. (1/6). year only by Miss Elizabeth Burns who 4 dozen pen­ in turn was replaced by Miss H.J. Malley

32 who remaineduntil the late 1930s. ever, due to the E.S.B. requiring pay­ Attention was drawn in April 1908 to ment of too large a capital sum for the the condition of the bedroom in the sendee, the Select Vestry decided to teacher's residence—the front of the leave the matter in abeyance. Electrici­ school building looking onto White- ty was subsequently installed in Octo­ church Road—owing to lack of light ber 1949, the church also being fitted and ventilation and it was resolved that out at this time. For some time after­ windows be made in the front of the wards some of the old oil lamps were re­ building. The necessary work was com­ tained in case of emergency. A new pleted in March 1910 at a cost of floor was found to be necessary in £51-10-0 following an appeal to parish­ 1950; the building was now 125 years ioners. Due to the poor financial state old and more extensive repairs were be­ of the parish, Miss Malley was advised coming essential as the years went by. in June 1915 that the cost of the school So in July 1962 we find urgent repairs servant would have to be borne by her being required to the roof and chim­ out of the local grant made to her. Fur­ neys and at a Select Vestry meeting a ther repairs became necessary to the proposal was put forward to close schoolhouse in July 1928, an amount down the school. After a lengthy dis­ of £83-10-0 being paid to Messrs. Gib­ cussion it was agreed that the necessary son on this account, while in April repairs should be put in hand. In the 1941 a portion of the roof into the event, the Commissioners of Public building. Works agreed to pay two-thirds of the Miss Watson, the schoolteacher, by Jan­ repair cost. uary 1945 announced that she would At the Select Vestry meeting of 5th shortly be leaving to get married, in April 1966 a letter was read from the consequence of which it was decided Department of Education stating their that the positions of organist and intention to close the school with ef­ schoolteacher be combined if a suitable fect from 1st July 1967, and to applicant could be found. As a result, transfer the Whitechurch children to a Miss G. Argue was appointed to the proposed new three-teacher school at combined post and was to give long and Rathfamham. It seemed, however, that loyal service—as schoolteacher until it would be at least two years before June 1969 and as organist until Decem­ this latter would be ready for occupa­ ber 1981. Following the closure of the tion. In fact it was June 1969 before school in 1969, Miss Argue commuted Whitechurch school finally closed, the every Sunday, winter and summer, from closure being due in no small measure Clontarf to Whitechurch to play at the to the small numbers attending, the morning service. After the re-opening roll being down to four at this time. of the school she continued to take a The possible future use of the building keen interest in its affairs. was discussed during 1970, one possibi­ To return however to 1945, in October lity being the renovation of the dwel­ a circular letter was sent to the Electri­ ling section for the use of a resident city Supply Board (E.S.B.), signed by caretaker/sexton. However, the build­ the householders in the Kilmashogue ing was not in good condition and the area, requesting the extension of the architect was of the opinion that not electricity supply to their homes, and less than £1,000 would require to be the opportunity was taken to seek con­ expended on it. Despite this advice the nection to the church and school. How­ vestry decided to renovate the building,

33 the work being completed in July 1971, 1830s indicate short breaks at Christ­ and shortly after this Mr. Ernest Wil­ mas and Easter but no Summer vaca­ liams, the present sexton, took up resi­ tion at all. As an example, Christmas dence there. holidays in the Winter of 1836/7 were Nothing further of note was to happen from 22nd December 1836 to 2nd on the education front until January January 1837, Easter holidays from 1976 when it was proposed to issue a 23rd March to 3rd April 1837. There circular to Church of Ireland parents are entries right through the months in the parish seeking their views con­ June to October, seemingly indicating cerning the schooling of their children. that there was no vacation. The school The questionnaire had three main year 1877/8 shows the following points, viz.— breaks: (1) Would they support a multi-deno­ Christmas: 14th December 1877 to minational school as envisaged by a 2nd January 1878. survey sponsored by the Marlay Easter: 17th April to 29th April Grange Residents' Association? 1878. (2) Would they send their children to a Summer 1st July to 22ndjuly, 1878. new parish school which would cost Whilst this latter constitutes a vast im­ about £8,000 to the parish? provement over the situation forty (3) Would they consider sending their years earlier it still falls a long way short children to , Rathmines or of the long Summer vacations of the Zion National schools? 1980s. As the attendance books are not Of the forty circulars sent out, twenty- available from 1882 onwards it is not seven replies were received, many possible to indicate when the situation being in favour of the first option. improved further. However by October 1977 no progress had been made towards the Marlay St. Columba's College school and consideration was being The college of St. Columba dates from given to building a new school on a site the year 1843, although not on its pre­ in the parish. This course was decided sent site. The four original founders upon and the present position is that an were the Reverend William Sewell, Fel­ appeal for funds was launched in Octo­ low of Exeter College, Oxford, who ber 1980. In the meantime the old came over from England in 1839, Vis­ school was re-opened in September count Adare, M.P. for Glamorganshire, 1978 with Miss Muriel Hatton as teach­ William Monsell, later Liberal M.P. for er and by October 1980 the number of Limerick, and the Reverend JamesHen- children on the roll was thirty and in­ thorn Todd, Fellow of T.C.D. Of the creasing, so much so that Mr. Harold four it was probably Sewell who first Hislop joined as a second teacher in suggested the foundation of a school September 1981. With the increasing on English public school lines, for this number of christenings in the parish in was a time whenmanysuchschools were recent years it is imperative that the in course of being founded. Sewell'sidea new school be provided in the near fu­ was however at variance in one funda­ ture. mental aspect with most of the public One feature of school life which dif­ schools then in existence, namely that fered considerably in the past from the whereas the existing schools were in the present era was the question of holi­ main run almost wholly by their head­ days. The attendance books during the masters, he wished his school to be de-

34 pendent on a body of men. the school year—mid-August to mid- An appeal for funds was launched at December and early February to the the beginning of 1841. Onepossiblesite end of June. One of the reasons for the for the new school was Ventry in Co. college authorities looking for another Kerry, where Adare and Monsell had site was undoubtedly the difficulties of been involved in fund-raising to build a travel to and from Stackallan. One pu­ church some years earlier, but Sewell pil whose home was in Co. Limerick was less keen on this site. By August took three and a half days to reach the 1841, still with no firm site, the list of college. founders had doubled and the Church During much of this period, the of Ireland Primate, Lord John George question of a more permanent site was Beresford, had been named as ex-of fico being actively considered, it having Visitor. Without his approval there was been agreed as early as December 1843 to be no appointment of a new gover­ that Stackallan should not be a perma­ nor or headmaster and he was to have a nent home for the college. So on 9th say in the choice of a site. By the end of January 1848 we find Todd visiting 1842 three sites were being seriously Hollypark, the residence of Jeffrey considered for the college—(1) Mount Foot, son of Lundy Foot. It is not Shannon on Lough Derg, (2) 36 acres known exactly when Hollypark was of woodland near Ballinasloe offered built, but it may have been as early as 'for ever for nothing' by Lord Clancar- 17 74. Again, the exact price paid is not ty and (3) the See House of Cashel. In known—£4,000 was the original price February 1843 the decision was taken asked and £2,000 was offered. Holly­ to discard all three and to offer Lord park was to become the Warden's Boyne £120 per annum for a five to House and with it came outhouses and seven year lease of Stackallan House some fifty acres of land. The house as it with five acres, situated near the River is today has not altered significantly in Boyne about seven miles north-east of the last 130 or so years. To the west of Navan, but in April we find nothing the house extended three gardens, all concrete having been decided and surrounded by high granite walls and being considered. one of these was to be partly occupied Stackallan was finally chosen and a by dormitories erected in 1849. Origi­ beautiful situation it obviously was, the nally there were two gate lodges, the house built in 1712 standing in a 200 one at the rear (Kilmashogue) entrance acre demesne. The college was formally being removed about 1911. The one at opened on 25th April 1843 although, the front entrance was occupied by col­ curious to relate, no name had been lege workmen and their families until chosen for it and it was not until 3rd 1957, since which time it became May that the Primate gave his approval empty and derelict. to the name by which it has ever since First term at Hollypark began on 3rd been known. The first three boys ar­ October 1849 with twenty-eight boys. rived in August, by December there The Warden, the Reverend M. C. Mor­ were seven, rising to thirty-five in ton, was unwell at the time of the move March 1847, the highest figure reached anddiedin April 1850 at the early age of at Stackallan. The fees at this time were thirty-one, having been with the school sixty guineas a year, being the average since its opening in 1843. He was re­ figure charged by other Irish boarding placed by the Reverend George Williams schools. There were only two terms in who remained until his resignation in

35 St. Columba's College: Hollypark House at right (now the warden's residen dining hall and top dormitory on left. (St Columba's College) March 1856, following controversy be­ be found at the centre of activity on be­ tween himself and the Primate who had half of the college. After Beresford's withdrawn his support, both moral and departure from the college scene, Todd financial, from the college at the end of was appointed Visitor and did trojan 1853. This wrangling had effectively work in this capacity. damaged the college, numbers having In 1870, with the financial situation in dropped from forty-three in November a critical state, Rice on his own initia­ 1850 to only nineteen five years later. tive took the unusual step of reducing The years 1856 to 1867 were years of the fees in an attempt to raise numbers relative prosperity under Wardens which had fallen to only thirty boys. Gwynn to 1864 and Longden, numbers Fees came down from £84 to £63 and, actually rising to sixty in 1858 al­ although still some £20 higher than though they dropped back to forty in those of Irish schools, they did have an 1864 as the result of an epidemic, two immediate impact, as numbershadrisen of the boys in the college having died to seventy by the end of that year. The from throat infections. Financial diffi­ financial situation was still bad, how­ culties faced the college about this time ever, and a meeting was held in the sum­ and from then onwards they pro­ mer of 1873 to launch an appeal for vided a repetitive theme. To provide funds to clear the college's debts and more accommodation for the increas­ enable them to carry out some necessa­ ing numbers the roof of the dining hall ry building works as, for example, a was removed and the Top Dormitory chapel to replace the wooden structure was erected over it. At this time, Holly- erected in 1849. Such was the success park itself, although officially the War­ of the appeal that the debts were den's residence, was being used to ac­ leared by the end of 1874 and there commodate staff and pupils, although was actually money in the bank. This this arrangement did not suit when euphoria was, however, short-lived for John Gwynn became the first married by 1885 we find a down wardspiral again, Warden on his marriage in 1862. due in part to the general state of the One interesting fact emerging from this country at that time, but apart from time is that of eighty-seven boys, this Rice's economy measures had se­ thirty-three stayed one year or less and riously lowered the standards of the thirty-four stayed for four or more college as regards conditions. As a con­ years. One wonders about the reasons sequence, numbers were down to thirty- for the short stay of thirty-three boys- six by 1886 in which year fees were were they going on to English schools? again reduced. The Reverend W. G. Longden's stay An 1873 timetable of classes gives us an was a short one, due in no small mea­ interesting insight into the long school sure to the shaky condition of the col­ hours prevalent at the time. In Summer lege's finances, and he left the college classes were 07.30 to 08.00, 09.30 to in October 1867 after only three years 11.30, 12.30 to 14.00 and 17.30 to as Warden. His successor was a young 19.00 with preparation from 20.15 to Englishman, Robert Rice, who had 21.15. In between, mealtimes were been a tutor since 1860, having come to 08.00, 14.00 and 19.00 with chapel at the college from Oxford. The college 09.00 and 19.45. The new chapel was lost one of its great supporters with the dedicated to St. Mark on 1st September death in June 1869 of Todd. One of the 1880 just over a year after building four original founders, he was always to work commenced and it has changed

37 ,« •1

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St. Columba's College: Warden Reverend W. G. Longden and sta (St. Columba's College) little over the years since then. Rice re­ grounds. The adversities of this time signed in September 1891, having ob­ resulted in a fall in numbers although tained a country living in England, and they did later increase. The last three was replaced by an Irishman, the Reve­ Wardens of the college have been the rend Percy S. Whelan, a Dublin curate Reverend C. W. Sowby (1933-49), the who had been on the staff of Tipperary Reverend F. M. Argyle (1949-74) and Grammar School. David Gibbs(1974-date). Whelan appears to have been alikeabh An extensive building programme was and genial person as well as being c carried out in the years from 1934 to good teacher. He was also youni 1938 with a new house, dormitories enough to involve himself in the col and staff rooms being added. In 1970 lege's outdoor activities. During his the decision was taken to admit girls to term of office numbers rose to 108, de­ the college, four girls entering in Sep­ clining gradually to 58 in 1902 anc tember 1971. By July 1974 there were then more quickly to 36 in 1904. In 207 pupils of whom twenty-two were 1894 the decision was taken to rent the girls, the present number being just adjoining property known as 'Glen- short of 300. southwelP on a five year lease to pro­ vide additional accommodation but Rockbrook House this was not successful and the lease Rockbrook House is a two-storeyed, was not renewed. Whelan left in 1904, five bay Georgian house with a lower becoming vicar of Swords before later two-storeyed wing extending forwards moving to England. In his stead came at right angles to the front. At the turn the ReverendWilliamParkerwhointurn of this century it was in the occupation only stayed for four years tobe replaced of John Fox, farmer and spirit dealer, by the Reverend William Blackburn who also owned a hostelry in Glencul- in September 1909. Parker's short so­ len which is still in existence at the pre­ journ almost saw the demise of the col­ sent time. Later it came into the owner­ lege due to financial mismanagement. ship of J. P. Mitchell, spirit merchant, At a meeting held in July 1908 Parker following which it was the residence of was told that there would be no salary the local Coard family for a number of for him in the coming year and his res­ years, passing thence to the second ponse to this was hardly surprising- Lord Glenavy, husband of the artist he resigned. The college's fortunes im­ Beatrice Elvery and father of the jour­ proved under Blackburn. He died in his nalist and broadcaster Patrick Camp­ sleep, apparently in perfect health, in bell, who became the third baron. Lord the early hours of 17th November Glenavy was for some years a governor 1919. of the . Subsequently it The Reverend C. B. Armstrong took was in the occupation of Major J. F. over the wardenship at a time when the Brown from whom it passed into the full effects of the World War were only hands of Rockbrook Park School. now beginning to be felt; and the years following 1919 were, of course, a troub­ Rockbrook Park School led period in Ireland. In September Rockbrook Park School was estab­ 1920 a group of thirty-six men were lished by a group of parents and teach­ captured by army and police patrols ers who felt that education was not while drilling and bomb practices solely the pursuit of academic excel­ were held for some hours in the college lence but should also concern itself

40 with the full personal development of Battle of the Boyne. Following the Wil- the student. It is felt that family partici­ liamite victory he became a naturalised pation is essential and parents are there­ English subject and left the army as a fore encouraged to play an active part lieutenant with a pension of 2/= per in their childrens'education and, to en­ day. He apparently movedtoGalway,as able this to be effective, regular contact we find him entering into the trade of is maintained throughout the year be­ worsteds there, allegedly on the sugges­ tween parents and teaching staff. tion of his landlady. He later returned The school opened in September 1972 to Dublin and set up a cambric and ta- in Rockbrook House with forty-three binet business in High Street. Apart boys and at the present time there are from this business we find him acting as about 140. A wide range of sporting custodian of moneys lodged with him activities is available, including rugby, by French refugees and others. By a soccer, basketball, volleyball, tennis, deed of 28th January 1715 he entered athletics and orienteering, in addition into partnership with Nathaniel Kane to which hiking, camping and cycling to form the firm of Kane and La excursions are organised under supervi­ Touche. Some years later it was decid­ sion. ed to discontinue the poplin industry and restrict their activities to banking. In 1735 they moved to a house in The La Touche Family Castle Street purchased from John Tis- and Marlay Estate dal. About this time also, his son David The La Touche family, whose original (II) joined the firm as a partner and the name was Digges or Digues, is said to be title was again altered, to La Touche, of English descent, having left England Kane and La Touche. Kane retired in the latter half of the twelfth century some time later and the business was during the reign of Henry II. They set­ from then on managed solely by the tled near Blois on the River Loire about La Touche family. 100 miles south-west of Paris where The firm's founder died in 1745 and they had large possessions including an the business passed to his son. The lat- estate known as La Touche from which ter's son, David (III), now joined as a they took their new family name. Seve­ partner, bringing about another change ral refugees bearing the name came to of title, to David La Touche & Son. In Ireland after the Revocation of the addition to acting as bankers to most of Edict of Nantes in 1685 by a weak go­ the nobility, gentry and statesmen (be­ vernment and an even weaker king. The tween 1765 and 1790 their clients in­ Irish family is descended from David cluded two dukes, six marquesses and Digues La Touche, born on 15th No­ thirty-two earls), it maintained corres­ vember 1671, the fourth son of Denis pondents in practically all the capital Digues and Madeleine des Planches. cities of the world and acted as Dublin David's father died when he was only agents for several important London eight and on 26th April 1685, with his banks. bible under his arm and 100 gold David (II) was married in February crowns concealed in his vest, he set off 1724 to Mary-Anne, the daughter of to seek his fortune. Gabriel Canasilhes, a native of Holland, After arrival in Ireland, via Holland, he and had by her seven sons and four is reported to have served in the Regi­ daughters. His eldest son, David (III), ment of the Comte de Cailemotte at the built two fine houses on St. Stephen's

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Marlay House, one time residence of the La Touche family. Green—now Nos. 52/3, the former yard in the centre of the estate is a being used for many years as his city re­ charming house hidden in the trees and sidence. He was a Peace Commissioner known as 'Laurelmere'. Gate-lodges and M. P. for the borough of at each entrance complete the buildings in 1766 and later of Longford in 1772. on the estate. In 1762 he married Elizabeth, daughter Marlay Estate was regarded as a model of the Right Reverend George Marlay, on the agricultural scene at the time. D.D., and son of Lieutenant Joseph Archer's Statistical Chief Justice Marlay. Elizabeth was a Survey of Co. Dublin, carried out on first cousin of Henry Grattan. Two behalf of the Royal Dublin Society and years later, La Touche acquired the published in 1801, makes various refer­ property known as 'The Grange'which ences to Marlay. For example on the ra­ had been in the ownership of Thomas ther mundane subject of potatoes Taylor, who became Lord Mayor of 'Right Honourable D. La Touche must Dublin in 1750. In 1794 a portion of be ranked amongst the foremost of the the existing house was demolished and potatoe cultivators' and again he was a number of spacious apartments were complimented on his method of added, the property being renamed ploughing. The demesne was also much Marlay House at this time. At this time admired by Austin Cooper on his visit also, the grounds were laid out with there in 1781. David (III) also had a lakes, waterfalls, bridges and walks, in large family of eleven children, one of addition to which more than 300 whom, Elizabeth, married Robert Her­ types of shrubs and trees were planted. bert, 3rd Earl of Lanesborough, in The property consisted of approxima­ 1781. His eldest son, yet another David tely 400 acres, 70 of which were wood­ (IV), was born in May 1768 and he suc­ lands and 6 water—the Little Dargle ceeded as owner of Marlay on the death River flows northwards through the of his father in June 1805. He became estate. M.P. for Co. Carlow and was colonel of The oldest part of the house is nearly the Carlow Militia. He sold Marlay to 300 years old and was built by the Tay­ his brother John David, and on the lor family. It has corner fireplaces, nar­ death of the latter in Aus^ust 1838 the row stairways and numerous odd- property passed to his 38-year-old son shaped rooms. The largest room is the David Charles, who commanded the one-time ballroom with its three full City of Dublin Militia during its embo­ length windows facing the mountains, diment at the time of the Crimean War. immediately adjacent to which is the David Charles La Touche took an active uniquely oval music room. Separated interest in public affairs in the City and from the latter by a small hallway is a was a leading member of many public room known as the Studio which was in boards, taking a special interest in the later years used by Evie Hone, the cele­ city's hospitals. He was a justice of the brated stained glass artist. Attached to peace and was high sheriff of Wicklow the main house is a rectangular court­ in 1838. He died in August 1872, by yard containing two further houses— which time the La Touche interest in The Dower House and Dalkeith—plus Marlay had ceased, as it was sold under stables and garages. Immediately ad­ the terms of the Landed Estates Court, joining the courtyard is an enclosed gar­ an auction being held on 29th Novem­ den of some four acres with a care­ ber 1864 and the property being pur­ taker's house. Nearer the lower stable chased by Robert Tedcastle of the fa-

44 mous Dublin firm of coal merchants. In 1868, negotiations were conducted or about this time the banking house in with the Munster Bank Ltd., and it was Castle Street was sold to the Govern­ to this concern that the business was ment for use as offices. sold in January 1870, William Digges We must now return almost 100 years being appointed resident director in in time to February 1782 when the 'Bill Dublin. Thus came to an end a most for the establishment of a National successful banking establishment, and Bank in the Kingdom of Ireland' was it is of interest to note that the La presented to Parliament, receiving Touche family had connections with Royal Assent on 4th May of that year. the two leading banks of the time. The Act provided that the new bank's To return however to Marlay, Tedcastle capital was to be £600,000 with com­ later sold a wedge of land on the north­ missioners appointed to receive sub­ west corner of the estate and the ad­ scriptions, among whom we find four joining 'Marlay Grange' was built on members of the La Touche Family. So the site by the Honourable Hercules successful was the appeal that the sub­ Rowley. A portion of this section was scription list closed on 6th December later leased to the newly formed 1782 and the new Bank of Ireland Grange Golf Club in July 1910. Robert opened its doors for business on 25th Tedcastle died on 19th May 1919 at the June of the following year. The new age of 94, and the property was again bank's first governor was David La sold, this time to Robert Ketton Love, Touche (HI), a post he held until 1791, whose family remained in occupation his brothers John and Peter being ap­ for fifty years until the death of his son pointed to the Court of Directors. The Philip in 1970. Following negotiations La Touche participation had ceased by with the Love family the estate, now re­ the turn of the century but the Bank duced to 214 acres by the lease and sub­ of Ireland and the La Touche bank en­ sequent sale of a further tract of land to joyed very good relations during the Grange Golf Club, was purchased in next eighty years or so and these were 1972 for a figure in the region of only upset by the unhappy financial £500,000 by Dublin County Council position which the latter found itself in for eventual opening as a public park. during the mid to late 1860s—not, it During the three years after its purchase must be hastily added, due in any way a further sum of £130,000 was expen­ to mismanagement but to changing at­ ded. titudes to the private banks. The park was opened to the public in On 19th March 1866 William Digges 1975 and it must be said that it is a La Touche personally interviewed the great credit to Dublin County Council, Court of the Bank of Ireland requesting carrying on the high standards set by a special overdraft which was granted. the La Touche family at the close of the By the following year however the La eighteenth century. Two public car­ Touches realised that matters were se­ parks have been provided and recrea­ rious and they opened negotiations tional facilities include football pitches with the Union Bank of Ireland for the and a nine-hole golf course. A minia­ sale of their business, but before the ne­ ture railway opened in the grounds dur­ gotiations had proceeded very far it be­ ing 1982. In the courtyard a craft cen­ came obvious that the Union Bank tre has been opened selling handmade themselves were in financial difficul­ items. Another feature of Marlay is that ties. During the closing months of it includes the start of the

45 walk, a brief description of which fol­ lagh. It was built about 1790 by Mr. lows, as far as it concerns the area with­ Lundy Foot, eldest brother of Geof­ in the parish. frey Foot, head of the celebrated firm of Lundy Foot & Company, well- TheWicklowWay known snuff and tobacco merchants of The Wicklow Way has been described as Essex Street and Westmoreland Street. 'the most varied path in the most varied Lundy was called to the Bar in 1788 at county in Ireland', as it follows a the age of 24 and in 1816 became in­ switchback line along the east flank of volved in the trial and subsequent con­ the Dublin and , on viction of the Kearneys. The Kearneys, a roughly North-South line from Mar- father and two sons, Peter, Joe and Bil­ lay Park to , the southern end ly were arrested for conspiracy to mur­ of the first phase. First proposed by der John Kinlan, a steward of Ponson- J. B. Malone in a newspaper article in by Shaw. Kinlan's body was not found 1966, the Wicklow Way was established at the time, being uncovered when a as a public amenity in August 1980 by new sand-pit was being opened in Tal- the work of the Long Distance Walking laght in 1933. The Kearneys had how­ Routes Committee of Cospoir, the Na­ ever been heard to threaten Kinlan on a tional Sports Council, with the co­ number of occasions and, following the operation of the Forestry Branch, Bord discovery of a blood-stained hatchet Failte, Dublin and Wicklow County with hairs matching Kinlan's, their fate Councils and local landowners. was sealed. They were brought from Having crossed Marlay, the route leaves Kilmainham Jail and hanged in a field the park by the south gate and turns beside the at Old Bawn. right down College Road, then back on Foot sold Footmount, as it was called itself up Kilmashogue Lane to Kilma- at the time, to Nathaniel Calwell and shogue Forest entrance, travelling east­ moved to Co. Kilkenny where he pur­ wards towards chased Rosbercon Castle near New by a forest road as far as the junction Ross. While out walking he was at­ with a similar road from ; tacked and beaten to death by a man from Three Rock the path continues carrying a stone on 2nd January 1835, climbing to Fairy Castle marked by a and it was at first thought that this ruined prehistoric cairn and a survey might have hadsomething to do with the pillar. From here the track follows a Kearneys. It transpired, however, that a rough fire-break down over a stile on to local dispute had arisen over the evic­ the to Pine Forest road, by tion of a tenant from land purchased by which time we have left the parish. Foot. Calwell, who was governor of the For those interested in hill-walking it Bank of Ireland from 1866 to 1868 and can be highly recommended, but the a director from 1847 to 1890, sold Or­ usual precautions for such walks should lagh to Carew O'Dwyer in 1836. It is be strictly observed, as the route tra­ not clear exactly when the name of the verses some very lonely terrain despite house was altered but it was probably its proximity to the city. during O'Dwyer's time. The name Or­ lagh has been interpreted as 'hill of Footmount (later Orlagh) gold' and also as 'an inch'. On the northern slope of Mount Pelier, It was during O'Dwyer's tenure that just below the ruins of the Hell Fire changes were made to the original Club, lies the house now known as Or­ building. To the east side a new wing

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441 Jh was added with a large banqueting hall. having two large windows in front com­ O'Dwyer was a great friend of Daniel manding a magnificent view. On the O'Connell andthelatterwas entertained ground floor was the kitchen, off which there on a number of occasions. This were the servants' quarters. The hall room was hung with a tapestry from door was reached by a fine flight of Marie Antoinette's rooms at the Tuile- stone steps, which were later taken ries, whilst the ornate ceilings were exe- away when the house fell into decay in hand painting. Besides this he also and used for Lord Ely's lodge lower added a small Gothic chapel displaying down the hill—Mount Pelier House. rare glass dating from the fifteenth and The Hellfire Club movement originated sixteenth centuries. One of his outdoor in England, being founded by Philip, additions was an oval pond fed from a Duke of Wharton in 1720. Due to its li­ mountain stream. This pond was con­ beral views on matters of religion, the verted into a swimming pool for the club came into conflict with the Go­ Augustinian Novitiates about 1947. vernment and membership of it was O'Dwyer leased Orlagh to a wealthy banned. Despite this it continued and, Scottish family named Brodie and on probably because of meeting in secret, the death of the head of this family it it soon began to be linked to Satanism, was sold to the Augustinian Order on although there is no direct proof that 16th July 1872. The reader is referred this was in fact the case. A branch was to the section dealing with the Augus­ started in Dublin in 1735 and met in tinian Order for the subsequent history the Eagle Tavern on Cork Hill, near of this house (pp 24-5). . The members appear to have been a wild crowd and reports The Hell Fire Club soon spread of debauchery, gambling One of 's best known and excessive drinking. Shortly after landmarks is undoubtedly the Hell Fire this, out-of-town meetings were held Club on the summit of Mount Pelier. in Conolly's lodge and from this grew Some of the Loftus lands passed into the name by which it is known today. the hands of Thomas Conolly, Speak­ It is said that at all club meetings, a er of the House of Commons, early in place was left at the table for his sable the eighteenth century and about the majesty who is supposed to have graced year 1720 he built the house, utilising them with his presence on more than as materials stones from a large cairn one occasion. Rumours of black masses which stood at the top of the hill. The being celebrated were spread but again house was intended as a hunting-lodge there is no evidence. One of the fantas­ but shortly after it was built the slated tic stories connected with the place roof was blown off one night in a vio­ concerns a black cat which was kept lent storm. Local people believed that there as Satan's representative. A the roof had been blown off by the devil young clergyman crossing the Dublin on account of the owner's sacrilegious mountains at night sought refuge there conduct in desecrating the old cairn. during a snowstorm, believing the Determined not to be bettered how­ building to be no more than a farm­ ever, Conolly built a tremendously house. Only after the door was opened strong arched roof, keying the stones by a cloaked figure brandishing a sword together as in a bridge. The house as did he realise his dreadful mistake. On built had a parlour, drawing room and entering, he found the club members hall on the upper floor, each room having a meal, the guest of honour

48 ' ,*4"

The Hell Fire Club on the summit of Mount Pelier Hill. (Guinness Collection) being a black cat sitting at the head of 1752, answered an advertisement the table. The clergyman, on being told placed by a Dublin book auctioneer for the identity of the cat, endeavoured to an assistant. On calling at the premises, exorcise it but the animal cried out in he discovered that the auctioneer had pain, jumped on to an overhead chan­ gone to visit a friend and, not to be put delier which fell, setting the building off by such a trivial matter, White fol­ alight. lowed him to the house where he slip­ The story does not relate the fate of the ped on the pavement outside, twisting people in the building at the time, nor his ankle. The auctioneer's friend took for that matter of the cat, but shortly him in and called a doctorwhoconfined after this the club ceased to meet there, White to bed for several weeks. and it was in fact disbanded in 1741 fol­ The auctioneer was meanwhile taken lowing the death of one of its founders, with White's eagerness and gave him the Richard Parsons, the first Earl of Rosse. job when he had fully recovered. So Attempts to revive the club in 1782 efficient was he that the business was were unsuccessful and the ruin serves as subsequently left to him. He also a reminder of early eighteenth-century became the agent for a London finan­ happenings. cier and between the two made his for­ tune. His first acquisition was the Lut- Mount Pelier House trellstown Estate, including the castle, Mount Pelier House was built in 1763 at Lucan which he renamed Woodlands as a hunting residence by Henry Lof tus, in view of the poor reputation of the the Earl of Ely. It was originally called Luttrell family in the area at that time. The Long House' or '', the He subsequently purchased the lands at latter due to the fact that his wife Fran­ Killakee and built the house there in ces Munroe was an aunt of the celebrat­ the early years of the nineteenth centu­ ed beauty of the time, Dolly Munroe. ry. Exactly when is unknown but it is The house was two-storeyed in front clearly shown on a private map of the with six windows on each side. Over the White Estate dated 1806, at which time hall door was the coat of arms of the his son Samuel held lands in his own Ely family. On either side of the house right at Woodtown. Killakee House extended a long wing of out-offices,ser­ was a two-storeyed stucco-faced vants' apartments and stables, termi- house of symmetrical aspect with a vants' apartments and stables, termi­ curved bow in the centre front and si­ nating at each end in a square three- milar bows in the side elevations. It had storeyed tower with an embattled top a balustraded parapet to the roof and a and pointed windows. The local pro­ verandah with slender iron uprights and nunciation of the word Pelier is a balcony above alcng the centre of the Tel-ear'. front, giving the house the appearance of a Mediterranean villa. Luke White Killakee died in London in February 1824 and The lands in the area of Killakee came the property passed to his second son, into the hands of Luke White at the Colonel Samuel White of the County close of the eighteenth century. White Militia, who was a Member of Parlia­ was a millionaire bookseller and finan­ ment for Co. Leitrim. He lived at Killa­ cier who is reputed to have made his kee House in considerable luxury, as the riches as the result of a twisted ankle. remains of the grounds and gardens still The story goes that White, born in testify. An undated map, but obviously

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Shooting party, Killakee 1900: Lord Massy seated front row wearing ca Lord Cloncurry on right-hand side with beard. (Guinness Collection) from the early 1800s, shows some Lewis guns, thousands of roun ds of am­ 2,900 acres of land in the possession of munition and a large quantity of high Samuel White, somewhat less than half explosives and was guarded by a trap- of this being let out to tenants. mine. The dump itself was a chamber Terraced gardens were laid out and ma­ about twenty feet square and also con­ ny shrubs and trees cultivated, includ­ tained a tent and bedding, LIS well as ing a fine avenue of monkey-puzzle a good supply of tinned foodstuffs. It trees which arc still to be seen. The was well constructed and spotlessly estate subsequently descended on the clean, the concrete walls being white­ female side of the family to Lord washed and the wooden floor Massy, who had married Samuel's covered with linoleum; the roof was youngest sister. Regrettably Lord Mas- zinc-treated with a cork preparation to sy's heirs did not possess the Whites' absorb moisture. A little window let ability to handle money and they found out into the side of the cliff was themselves evicted in 1924 when the screened by overhanging shrubbery. bank foreclosed and Killakee was taken There was a second door inside, which over by the Forestry Department. The could be let down to prevent light from house itself was finally demolished in the lamps being seen. 1941 but not before it had made some The dump was found quite by accident, further contribution to thelocalhistory. as there was no pathway leading to it, Early in May 1931 what was described the users obviously coming to it as a 'hill fortress' was established by the through the stream to avoid leaving Detective Unit of the Dublin Metropol­ footprints. One of the detectives from itan Division to combat the activities of Killakee sat down to rest on a rock and an irregular military organisation. A discovered an iron pipe beneath it, Trinity College student, Rupert Young, which was later found to be a ventila­ had been shot at while walking near the tion pipe for a stove. The doorway was Hell Fire Club with a friend on the night so well camouflaged that it resembled of 23rd April. Young was hit by two natural rock formation. It was suspect­ bullets, one of which inflicted a face ed that the door was protected by an wound. For some time irregular activi­ explosive device, so it was eventually ty in the secluded areas of the Dublin opened by means of a long rope; a trap- and Wicklow mountains had constitu­ mine was tound at the bottom of the in­ ted a threat to law and order. Killakee ner stairs wired to explode if anybody House, unoccupied since 1924 except walked over a trip wire on the stairs. for Edmund Burke the caretaker, The dump was blown up later that seemed an ideal choice for a search evening, the explosion being heard in headquarters and was rented from the the city. Three brothers were subse­ bank who held a mortgage on it. quently charged under the Treasonable Offences Act and the Firearms Act. On 10th June success came with the finding of what one newspaper des­ Tibradden cribed as 'one of the biggest dumps of The original Tibradden House was des­ explosives in recent years'. It was dis­ cribed in 1837 as being a large house in covered near Killakee in a concrete tolerable repair in the occupation of chamber cut into the overhanging bank Mr. J. Jones. At this time the nearby of the stream flowing through the Cloragh House was the residence of estate. It contained rifles, revolvers, Charles Davis. Tibradden House was

53 View looking east from Tibradden House, about 1871. (Guinness Collec "Mpfiw^

L

Cloragh House. (Guinness Collection) presumably demolished within the fol­ use of its members as a centre for camp­ lowing twenty years, as the present ing and other scouting activities and it house was constructed in 1859. is still in their occupation although the Thomas Hosea Guinness, a solicitor of house is no longer standing. Many local Cottage, , mar­ people believe the area is haunted, but ried Mary, daughter of Charles Davis, there appears to be no firm evidence to on 31st August 1859, and as a wedding support this. present her father had Tibradden House built for them. St. Thomas, a Edmondstown Park and large yellow house on the left hand side The Hayes Family as one comes up from Kilmashogue Edmondstown Park was a square two- Bridge, was at one time the dower storeyed Georgian red brick house built house on the Guinness lands. Among its in 1798, having a frontage with three occupants were William Bright, LL.D., windows on each floor and the main and Mary Guinness, the artist. Its pres­ entrance at the side. The house was ent owner is Major T. McDowell, Chair­ approached by a gravel sweep leading man of . Cloragh Cot­ to a flight of steps and the front door tage was at one time the residence of with its porch of wrought-iron work Annie P. Smithson, the prolific writer flanked by semi-circular windows. In­ and district nurse. Nurse Smithson was side was a spacious hall, from which for many years the district nurse in doors led into the drawing room and Rathfarnham, also serving in Jervis dining room, a staircase giving access to Street hospital during the 1916 Rising. half a dozen bedrooms on the first Her books, which number about twen­ floor. A service wing with kitchen and ty, depict the life and times of a district sculleries was subsequently added by nurse. At least one of her novels, The the Hayes family. On three sides of the Weldons of Tibradden, is located in the house was open parkland with exten­ area she loved so much. Annie Smithson sive views, while on the fourth was a died in February 1948 at the age of sev­ walled garden with its abundance of enty-four and is buried alongside her fruit, flowers and vegetables. A tennis mother, Margaret Louisa Smithson, in court was rather reluctantly laid by Wil­ Whitechurch graveyard. liam Hayes as the result of his daughter Elizabeth's arm-twisting, although he Up ihe road from Tibradden House is objected to such a frivolous use of good , a one-time fine estate of grazing for his cows. The entire proper­ about 100 acres, originally the proper­ ty comprised about 160 acres, includ­ ty of John O'Neill, a city merchant who ing an adjacent farm later acquired with only lived there during the summer a dwelling known as McGrane's House months. A large monument was erected occupied by the steward, Alexander to his wife's memory in 1835 in White- (Alec) Coard and his family. church graveyard. The property later In or about 1848, William Armstrong passed into the hands of Courtney Hayes, a wholesale tanner in the city, Clarke and later still was used as aT.B. took a lease of Edmondstown and took sanatorium. Thorn's Directory for up residence with his wife and six child­ 1925 shows it as a tea-room owned by ren. Hayes had married Elizabeth Car­ James McClean. In December 1937 it lisle in 1837 at the age of 29 when he was purchased by the executive of the was in business as a warehouseman at Catholic Boy Scouts of Ireland for the Merchants' Quay. In 1840 he joined his

56 eldest brother John as a partner in the still at No. 12 Grafton Street. This wholesale tannery in New Row off the move enabled him to devote more time Coombe. John Hayes died in 1867 and to charitable causes in which he had a it was in that year that William pur­ particular interest. chased Edmondstown from the owner, His wife Kate died at the end of Octo­ Mr. Cotton, apparently disposing of his ber 1906, and he remarried in August interest in the tannery about this time 1910, at the age of 69, Lily Harris some to devote more time to farming and to thirty-six years his junior, thus causing assist his second son William in running a sensation in the family circles. Wil­ a chemist's shop at 12 Grafton Street. liam passed away late in July 1918 and Old William Hayes died on 15th No­ Lily stayed on at Edmondstown to vember 1893 at the age of 86, his estate farm the land, finally passing away in being valued at £15,820 (some December 1948. Their son, another £300,000 at today's prices. His son Wil­ William, took up an appointment at the liam who had been living in Rathgar London Postgraduate Medical School took over the management of the farm, early in 1950 and the occupation of although his mother Elizabeth re­ Edmondstown Park by the Hayes fami­ mained in residence. January 1895 saw ly finally came to an end. very severe weather at Edmondstown— we are told that Alec Coard 'put in a The Hermitage/St. Enda's dreadful week of it looking for and sav­ Built about 1760, The Hermitage was ing the sheep and cattle'—the sheep at one time known as The Fields of having to be dug out of fifteen feet of Odin, the deity worshipped by the snow in the Rockbrook field. Elizabeth Norsemen to whom it was intended Hayes died on 5th March 1902 just two that the erection of the stone temple months after her ninety-second birth­ which the property contained should day, following a fall from her bed three be attributed. The monument behind days previously. William now moved the wall at the junction of Taylor's into Edmondstown with his family. Af­ Lane and Whitechurch Road was erect­ ter leaving school he had been appren­ ed by a former owner, Major Philip ticed to McMaster Hodgson & Co., Doyne, to a horse which carried him druggists of Dublin, and at the age of 24 through the Battle of Waterloo. set up his own chemist's shop at 12 Amongst other former owners were Dr. Grafton Street. He married Kate, Edward Hudson, father of William El­ daughter of Charles Hewlett, head of a liott Hudson, famous composer and firm of London wholesale chemists and collector of ancient Irish music, and they had four children. the Right Honourable Richard Moore, In 1870, William and other druggists sometime a Justice of the Queen's formed a committee, with William as Bench. secretary, to promote the Irish Phar­ Patrick Pearse had opened St. Enda's macy Bill which became law in 1875. In Boys School at Cullenswood House, 1897 William Hayes joined forces with Oakley Road, in , in Septem­ Henry Conyngham of Upper Baggot ber 1908, but hardly had itbeenopened Street and Mr. R.T.W. (later Sir Tho­ than it was found to be too small. Si­ mas) Robinson of Kingstown to form tuated in fifty acres of woods, parkland a limited company, the well known and orchards with a river and a lake, Dublin pharmacists Hayes, Conyngham Pearse fell in love with The Hermitage 8c Robinson Ltd., whose head office is at first sight. Purchased for a sum of

57 St. Enda's —now the . (Author) St. Enda's - the Study Hall. £6,000, St. Enda's opened there in Sarah Curran. Her father, John Philpot September 1910 with 70 pupils com­ Curran, lived in The Priory across pared with 130 in Ranelagh the pre­ Grange Road from The Hermitage. A vious year. It was established as an ex­ club known as The Monks of The perimental bi-lingual school as a protest Screw', presided over by Curran, met in against the existing National School The Priory which has long since been System which Pearse saw as an English levelled. one, and not a very good one at that, in­ tending, as it did, 4to turn all Irish men Woodtown into good little Britons'. The school George Grierson, the third of that name never really took off and was to be acon- to be a King's Printer and probably the tinuous financial burden, even more so most renowned of the Griersons, was after the deaths of the brothers Patrick King's Printer throughout the last de­ and Willie in 1916. Pearse's mother cade of Grattan's Parliament and the died in 1932, leaving the house and first two of the nineteenth century. He grounds to her daughter Margaret with lived like a gentleman and spent like a the promise that it was to go to the na­ lord, with a reputed income of at least tion on her death as a tribute to the £12,000 per annum. Shortly after his brothers. The school finally closed in marriage in 1791 he moved from Lower 1935 and Margaret lived on at St. Dominick Street to a new house at the Enda's with ever-increasing financial head of Glenasmole known as Heath- problems, and when she died in 1969 field Lodge, later moving to Mount Ve­ the house was in a poor state of repair. nus House in the mid-1790s before It was then taken over by the Board of moving on to Rathfarnham House, now Works who carried out extensive reno­ part of the extensive Loreto Convent. vations and subsequently opened it to Following the passing of the Act of the public as a Pearse museum. Part of Union in 1800, he is reputed to have re­ the grounds has been opened up as a ceived the sum of £100,000 by way of pleasant nature walk known as The compensation for loss of business and Wayfarer', commemorating Pearse's he turned his attention to farming and poem of that title written at St. Enda's cattle-breeding at Woodtown House, shortly before his death in 1916. later known as Woodtown Park, on the The following lines illustrate how slopes of Mount Pelier. This venture is Pearse was influenced by what he saw said ultimately to have involved Grier­ here— son in financial ruin. The house later .. .'Sometimes my heart hath shaken came into the possession of the Right with great joy Honourable Henry Joy, one time Chief To see aleaping squirrel in a tree, Baron of the Irish Exchequer. Follow­ Or a red lady-bird upon a stalk, ing his death, the estate was offered for Or little rabbits in a field at evening sale in the Landed Estates Courts in Lit by a slanting sun, April 1861. The prospectus issued at Or some green hill where shadows that time describes the mansion itself drifted by,...' as being a large house with full accom­ The property had historical connec­ modation for a nobleman or gentle­ tions with Robert Emmet, leader of the man's family, containing large and unsuccessful rebellion of 1803. It was handsome parlour and drawing rooms, in the grounds of The Hermitage that study, anterooms, 11 bedrooms, kit­ Emmet used to walk with his lady-love chen and servants' hall, housekeeper's

60 ft .V^M'lg rooms and servants' apartments with ing a deerpark which every estate of an abundant supply of the best spring note appears to have possessed at that water. The out-offices, in keeping with time. Woodtown Manor is now in the the mansion, provided stabling for 12 occupation of Gareth Browne. horses. The estate itself comprised some 52 acres, including the Forgefield Industries of 10 acres leased from James Davis. At the present time, manufacturing in­ In 1896 the Reverend Walter A. Hill, dustry within the region is confined to who had been on the staff of St. Colum- two factories, Reckitts Ltd. in Ed- ba's College from 1871 until 1886, mondstown and Glaxo on the Grange started a preparatory school at Wood- Road. At the beginning of the nine­ town Park with the intention that the teenth century however, the Owen- boys should go on to St. Columba's. Doher river was the scene of much acti­ The Warden and Fellows of the latter vity with a number of mills operated by gave this scheme their blessing and mo­ water-power in the stretch between ral support but did not involve the col­ Rockbrook and Ballyboden, and in fact lege financially. It lasted for some years further downstream although the latter and was the first boarding school in Ire­ do not concern us. It is to be regretted land which kept boys only up to the age that virtually no photographic or writ­ of thirteen. The house was unoccupied ten evidence now remains of an import­ by 1915, about which time it came ant aspect of social history of the time. into the possession of the McNeill fami­ One reference states that some 600 ly, brothers James and Eoin (John). people had been employed in the Rock- There is a local belief that final plans brook area alone, and, if this figure is for the 1916 Rising were drawn up here correct, the total number employed in —Pearse at this time lived close to the mills within the parish must have Woodtown at St. Enda's and it is quite been twice that number. possible that Woodtown Park was the The only sources of note providing in­ scene of meetings. On the other hand, formation are the various Ordnance Eoin McNeil] was against any action at Survey maps and the Ordnance Survey Easter weekend 1916, going so far as to Name Books dated from 1837, supple­ issue a press notice ordering members mented by D'Alton's history and of the , of which he was Lewis's Topographical Dictionary, Chief of Staff, to desist from any ac­ while the Paper Maker also has some re­ tion. A number of heated arguments ferences to various paper mills in the ensued between McNeill and Pearse in area. the days leading up to the Easter week­ There is some confusion regarding the end. ownership and location of some of the Twenty or so years later the house was mills but the following represents what in the occupation of the historian Ar­ the author has been able to establish nold Marsh and is at present occupied from the various sources available. by his daughter and family. On the op­ Moses Verney established a papermak- posite side of Stocking Lane to Wood- ing business at Whitechurch in 1760/1 town Park is Woodtown Manor, one­ in partnership with William Mondett. time residence of Samuel White. A map We are told that he made gold and silver of the Woodtown demesne drawn up paper for the purpose of 'preserving by John Byrne in 1806 shows the estate gold and silver lace from tarnishing'. to have consisted of 132 acres, includ­ Verney supplied the paper for the 1782

62 Map showing principal industries about 1840 Based on the Ordnance Survey by permission of the Government, Permit No. 3908

Key to Map

1. Paper Mill 2. St. Catherine's 3. Newbrook Paper Mill 4. Billy's Bridge 5. Cotton Mill 6. Somerville 7. Paper Mill 8. Cloth Mill 9. National School 10. Newtown Great Paper Mill 11. Newtown Little Cloth Mill 12. Millmount Cloth Mill 13. Rockbrook Paper Mill 14. Airmount 15. Cloragh House 16. Cloragh Cottage 17. Silk Mill 18. Tibradden House 19. St Thomas 20. Oldfield 21. Woollen Mill 22. Whitechurch Church & School 23. Moravian Cemetery 24. Whitechurch Laundry 25. Old Whitechurch 26. Silk Mill 27. The Hermitage/St. Enda's

63 3ALLYBQDE issues of the House of Commons Jour­ Lane was a mill owned by a Mr. Drum- nals, a sizeable order as it consisted of goold, while a little further up river 500 sets of 14, making 7,000 volumes on the right hand side was a mill in all, roughly equal to 4,000 reams. opposite Tibradden House, owned in Nothing further is known of this firm 1808 by Mr. Hughes. Some 200 yards which is not shown on the 1837 O.S. up Kilmashogue Lane from the bridge, map and had therefore presumably there is a mill building still in existence ceased to exist by then. D'Alton refers which is generally accepted as hav­ to cotton mills owned by Mr. Jackson ing been a corn mill owned by Doolan, being formerly on or near the site now although the 1837 O.S. map clearly occupied by the church but no other shows it as being a woollen mill. reference to this mill can be traced. Thorn 's Directories list a laundry at Kil­ Further down Whitechurch Road, mashogue run by the Jenkins family at there were two other industrial build­ the beginning of this century. There is ings. One was the laundry started by more doubt as to the exact number, Thomas Bewley in the early 1840s be­ type and location of mills on the Owen- side his residence Lissadell, later owned Doher river. Archer's Statistical Survey by Caroline Thacker and then by the of 1801 lists six mills in Rockbrook,viz. Willoughby family until it closed down two paper mills owned by Nunn, and about 1930. It is said that the Black and one each by Fry, Manger, Sullivan and Tans sent their laundry up here but due Taylor. The exact location of these to the considerable number of items mills is not given, but it is possible to going astray very soon ceased to do so! say that the Fry mill was situated at In 1910 the Whitechurch Laundry Co. Rockbrook House. By 1837 Fry was Ltd. had branches at 11 dead but a Mrs. Fry, presumably his wi­ Street and 31 Charlemont Street. Bew­ dow, lived at Rockbrook House. As far ley also built the adjoining properties as the remaining five are concerned, I Palmyra and Whitechurch Lodge, Mr. can add nothing regarding their loca­ Robert Ganly of the well-known auc­ tion. A Thomas Watson went into part­ tioneering firm of Ganly Craigie Ltd. nership with a gentleman called Nun in now lives in Lissadell. A little further 1768 and is shown as proprietor of a down Whitechurch Road on the right paper mill at Millmount, the name of hand side going towards Willbrook, which was used as his mark. Watson near to the new roundabout, the O.S. supplied paper for the House of Com­ maps show an idle silk mill, while the mons Journals in 1772 and 1781. The Namebooks refer to it as an extensive 1869 O.S. map shows Millmount as but idle cotton mill. Entries in the New being a cloth mill although Thorn 's Di­ Whitechurch parish registers dating rectories refer to it as being occupied from 1824 would seem to point to it by the famous Dublin paper-makers, having been a cotton factory, as two se­ R. P. Dollard & Co. It is possible there parate baptisms, one in 1824 and one in were at one time two adjoining mills, 1831, show the father's address as but on the other hand a resident of Bal- Whitechurch Factory and his occupa­ lyboden, Mr. Jack Mills, whose father tion as cotton spinner. On the other was a coal factor who supplied many of hand, perhaps these entries refer to Mr. the mills with coal, has informed me Jackson's cotton mill. that Dollards was nearer Ballyboden on Immediately over Kilmashogue Bridge the opposite side of the road near So- on the left hand side of Kilmashogue merville, i.e. close to the Redmond Mo-

65 Reckitts Factory, Edmondstown. (Author) lb,?1' \l

o

u

U

3 o

So o tor Works. Also incidentally situated as 1850. They made a variety of papers here was the Model Steam Laundry with the watermarks EM, RJV1, E, and owned by the Bloomfield Laundry with post horn or royal arms. which closed down in the early 1930s. Other mills mentioned are as follows. The O.S. map of 1837 also shows a cot­ John Beauchamp (watermark J. B.) ton mill between Somerville and St. acquired land at Ballyboden in 1761 as Catherine's, the latter now in the occu­ well as a known paper-mill site from pation of the Augustinians. Robert Randall, a paper-maker of Lewis in 1837 states that the parish of Rockbrook. In 1799 Beauchamp was Cruagh had four papermills, of which described as of Silveracre. Robert Ran­ only one,employingaboutsixtypeople, dall had a mill at Newbridge in 1739 was then in operation. Two woollen but in 1757 he was proprietor of a mills had been established producing new mill at Little Newton and he con­ friezes, flannels, kersey, coating and tributed to the 1763/4 issues of the blankets, with one hundred persons House of Commons Journals. Whether employed, 'although a few years since, this was Randall's only mill or whether when in full work, more than 600 were he owned another one further down­ engaged'. D'Alton in 1838 refers to the stream in Ballyboden is not known. deserted paper mill of Mrs. Fry. That Thorn ys Directories for 1905 and 1910 of Mr. Pickering succeeds to tell that respectively show Shamrock Paper yet it lives ... the continuing course Mills at Edmondson and Edmondstown wears a better aspect, and Mr. Horan's Paper Mills. factory, which employs about 35 per­ Another paper mill existed on Taylor's sons, leads to the more extensive and Lane at Newbrook, just east of the beneficial concern of Mr. Burke, where Whitechurch library, owned by John about 160, all of whom constitute a McDonough & Sons. This may have village round him (this was one of three been the same factory in which church mills on the same mill-race at Edmonds- services were held in 1823-4 when it town) get constant employment was owned by Mr. Taylor. The mill throughout the year. Next, at right, oc­ passed into the hands of John, later Sir cur Mr. Lambert's woollen works em­ John, Irwin in 1899 and traded under ploying about 20, as do those of Mr. the name of S. Irwin & Sons. Sir John Sherlock immediately adjacent, while lived in the adjoining Newbrook House Mr. Read's woollen mill at Ballyboden which overlooked the millpond. The gives work to about 40'. The Ordnance mill, which produced coarse black Survey shows only ten to twelve em­ wrapping-paper, was powered by a ployed at Read's (spelt Reids)at one to steam beam engine and also by a steam six shillings a day. In 1851 Read's ob­ horizontal engine. It is not certain, but tained a medal at the Great Exhibition it may also have been powered by wa­ of that year for their tweeds. Apart ter. Local sources state there was a fire from the foregoing, the Ordnance Sur­ in the mill in the late 1920s and that it vey show two additional mills at Bally­ closed down early in the 1930s. In any boden, Martin's which was extensive event it was subsequently conveyed to and flourishing, and Mansergh's which Killeen Paper Mills Ltd. in 1936. The employed thirty; both of these were race for this mill, which also served paper mills. Mansergh's originally had a the two mills at Somerville, was taken mill at Donnybrook but later moved to from the Owen-Doher some distance Ballyboden and were there until as late up the Edmondstown Road under

68 White Line Bus at Rockbrook, circa 1930. (C. Coard) which it crossed. After feeding the This massive stone, calculated to weigh Newbrook mill it crossed under Tay­ about 44 tons, measures 23 feet at its lor's Lane and fed a further paper mill longest point and has a total circumfer­ inBallyboden. ence of almost 60 feet. Borlase doubts During the early 1930s a local bus ser­ that the roofing stone was ever raised, vice operated between D'Olier Street although other sources believe that it church, as well as from Burgh Quay to may have been dislodged by an earth­ Beechwood Avenue. Owned and opera­ quake which occurred in the Dublin ted by Ernest G. White of Cloragh, it area in or about 1690. A couple of was bought out by the Dublin United miles south of Mount Venus we find Transport Company for £1,500 in another dolmen in the grounds of September 1934. The only other refe­ Larch Hill in Tibradden. It has a fine rence the author has come across is pillar stone almost 10 feet high stand­ that one of the White Line buses ing at the inner side of the chamber of knocked down and killed a 14-year-old the dolmen and behind the roofing boy at Kilmashogue on 1st June 1929. stone. The latter is 12'3" long by 8'3" The buses were for a time garaged at wide and 2 feet thick and is therefore Ballyboden on the site now occupied much smaller than its counterpart at by Redmond Motor Works. Mount Venus. One of the side stones has fallen and the roofing stone is now Prehistoric Dolmens and Holy Wells nearly 3 feet from the remaining up­ The area abounds in wells and prehis­ right and would appear never to have toric dolmens etc. of which the best rested on it. known is probably the Mount Venus Close by, on , is a cromlech or dolmen. Dolmens ('DauP— prehistoric burial cairn or passage a table and 'maen'-a stone) are general­ grave. A essentially con­ ly believed to have been constructed in sists of a burial chamber which is en­ the or later Stone Age period tered by a long narrow passage, the and are thought to be burial-places. whole being covered by a rounded They are widely distributed through­ mound and usually surrounded by a out India, Syria, North Africa, Spain, kerb. In its simplest form the chamber Portugal, France, Germany, Sweden is circular, as it is at Tibradden. The and the British Isles. The Mount Venus grave inside was about 3 feet by 1'6' by dolmen is situated in a field on the left 1' deep, filled with charcoal of small hand side of Mount Venus Road as one wood and bones. A small urn was found travels away from Rockbrook. Borlase broken in the grave, while a second in his book Dolmens of Ireland classes crock in a very decayed state was found this one with those at and bottom up amongst the stones. These Browne's Hill and regarded it as one of vessels were discovered in 1927 and one the most magnificent megalithic mo­ of them is now preserved in the Nation­ numents in the world, assuming, that is, al Museum. The urn was a food vessel that the immense roofing stone was 3%" high with a moulding at the shoul­ ever raised on to the summits of the pil­ der and decorated with lines of orna­ lars beside it. mentation made by two different The roofing or cap stone is a vast gra­ notched instruments. The cairn itself is nite block of tabular form which rests about 4 feet in diameter and 5 feet at a 45° angle on the shoulder of an up­ high, the entrance passage facingNorth- right block of roughly pyramidal form. East by North. The entrance passage

70 was roofed in a simple manner with lin­ lumcille (9th June). A legend attached tels but the chamber was usually roofed to this well is that the water from it can­ in a dome fashion by corbelling—small not boil. The following poem is dedi­ stones being used in the Tibradden one, cated to this well. although normally large slabs would be used. In the wood above Kilmashogue St. Columcille's Blessed Well Wood carpark is another relic of the past in the form of a wedge-shaped gal­ As I went out from Dublin lery grave. This consisted of a roughly To climb Mount Pelier Hill, rectangular chamber and a small ante­ To Killakee and Feather-bed chamber set in an oval mound of stones And up the mountains still, dating probably from the second mil­ lennium B.C. Later in the same millen­ My thoughts were scarce a penny­ nium burials took place and a hearth worth was constructed. In the grounds of Until I chanced to see Glensouthwell at the end of College The name of dear St. Columcille Road is Brehon's Chair, so called be- Bright lettered on a tree. because of its shape, the remains of an­ other dolmen. Returning along College A rugged stile, a rustic bridge Road and into Whitechurch Road, Soon added to the spell; there is on the roadside right opposite They led me to a lovely shrine the present church a stone which has Beside a Holy Well. been called the Wartstone by local people from a belief that the water A statue of the saint is there: which collects in a cross-socket sunk in He looks so young and sweet, it will eradicate warts if the affected In robe of white, with scrip and staff part of the body is immersed therein. And sandals on his feet. This stone is in fact the remains of an inscribed cross-plinth from a free­ And here's an ancient hollowed stone, standing cross. There was what was What story does it tell probably a tenth-century inscription of Low murmured by the ceaseless stream the letters IL on the stone. That pours into the well? Apart from the above, there are two wells situated in the area, one St. Sabb's In olden time, in golden time, (or Sabh's) Well in the grounds of St. I hear the water say: Columba's College about which no tra­ St. Columcille from Tolka side dition appears to have survived. The se­ Came wandering up this way. cond one, St. Columcille's or Tobar na Cluas, is better known and is situated While resting in this shady bower, some 200 yards from the entrance to He looked so young and sweet, Orlagh College near to the little village In robe of white, with scrip and staff, of Ballycullen. It is a clear spring with a And sandals on his feet. little runlet of water and is enclosed in a cupola of masonry embellished with a Twas June time and the world was crucifix and a statue of the saint. The glad, water is drunk and applied to sore ears. God's goodness everywhere. The well is still visited annually on the For all the world and everything Sunday next after the Feast of St. Co- We heard his whispered prayer:

71 « % A r ' 1ni: - s i ' ; if."' #

'..« * jr% Y * -' III '

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Mount Venus Cromlech — the large stone is estimated to weigh 44 to (Author) St. Colmcille's Well. (Author) 0 bless the Lord, bright noon-day sun, 'This spring was first taken notice of Fair land and shining sea, about the year 1748, being in my opi­ Clear springing water, happy stream, nion superior to that of Templeogue, Come, praise his name with me. even when this last was at its utmost perfection, though not so easy of ac­ And pledge of our united prayer cess. It is a perennial spring, about 9 God's blessing here I leave inches deep about 12 inches over si­ For all who gather in this place tuate in a small glyn (sic!) on Kilma­ To ask and to receive. shogue Hill'. Close to the bridge was a strange-looking house in rather ruinous And so the memory that we keep, condition, with granite pillars and por­ The story that we tell: tico in front and curiously shaped lat­ The saint, the blessing and the prayer tice windows, inhabited by a herd and Beside this Holy Well of course haunted according to W. St. J. Joyce in his Rambles around Dublin 1 will not climb Mount Pelier, published in 1890. It was believed to Nor further fare to-day, have been an inn for those taking the To Killakee or Feather-bed, waters, as was Caldbeck Castle—in fact But here to rest and pray. a rather ordinary large h ouse rather than a castle—the ruins of which are still to And we will come from Dublin be seen further up Kilmashogue Moun­ When June is with us still. tain. Some sources doubt that these To keep the feast and all be blessed buildings were constructed for that By dear St. Columcille. purpose, although an entry for October 1929 in the diaries of the late Colonel If we now travel back up Kilmashogue C. D. Guinness relating to the inscrip­ Lane right to the point where the road tions on the bridge refers to the Old Spa now ends, we are confronted with agate Hotel in the Paddock. beyond which a number of modern Reference to Kelly's Glen brings to bungalows have been built. Carrying on mind one of the oldest inhabitants of past these bungalows, the original road the area at the time of her death in swung downhill to the right and 1937. This was Miss Hannah Farrell crossed the stream in the bottom of the who was born at Kelly's Glen on 19th valley by a bridge bearing the inscrip­ January 1825, one of a family of nine tion 'Dc La Sophanie' on the keystone children. Interviewed on her 112th on the downstream side and '1850' in birthday in January 1937, she still read Roman figures on the other side. The the newspaper and looked forward 'to a valley is known as Kelly's Glen and the pleasant old age'. Asked for her views bridge was erected by the local land­ on the modern young woman, she said owner, William Caldbeck, who is said to that neither their make-up nor their man have erected it and another bridge close ners impressed her. One wonders what by, the latter with the inscription 'A she would have thought of to-day's suore amabile' as a memorial to his de­ fashions! Miss Farrell could clearly re­ ceased sister. In any event, right beside member the first trains running to the first bridge is what was one a chaly­ Kingstown. One of her earliest recollec­ beate spa. Dr. Rutty in his Natural His­ tions was of seeing Daniel O'Connell. tory of the County of Dublin pub­ She was also clearly able to remember a lished in 1757 said of it— youthful romance 92 years previously

74 Kelly's Glen - one of two bridges erected by William Caldbeck in memory of his sister. (Joy Shepherd) Kilmashogue — National School and Mill. (Joy Shepherd) when she fell in love with a young man. nue for the Irish Close Championship Their parents had however objected to and it was fitting that their own David the romance and they decided to elope Sheahan won rhe championship nar­ but her lover took suddenly ill and rowly beating Mark Block of Ed- died, and with his departure died her mondstown. The club has gone from one and only romance. strength to strength over the past 15 years or so, the only cloud on the hori­ The Golf Clubs zon being the publication of the Dublin By far the longest established in the Area Road Development Plan which area is Grange Golf Club, which was envisaged a motorway cutting through founded in the summer of 1909, the the grounds but in 1975 a further area course at that time being situated on of land at Marley Grange was purchased the slopes of Kilmashogue Mountain. thus ensuring the future of the club as Steps were taken in the following year an 18-hole course, come what may. to find aproper site, land being selected At Stackstown is the Garda Golf Club. at Marley Grange and leased from the The two other principal golf clubs in owner Douglas Rowley, son of the the area are Rathfarnham and Ed- Honourable Hercules Rowley, on a 21- mondstown. The Rathfarnham Club year lease from July 1910. The club­ moved to its present location next to house was built at a cost of £490 and Woodtown Park in the early 1970s the original course consisted of nine when the old course in the Butterfield holes. The annual subscription in those area was sold for housing. Edmondst- early days was £2-2-0 with £3-3-0 en­ town Golf Club was founded by the trance fee, a far cry from to-day's fees. Dublin Jewish community. Despite a In 1911 problems arose when Marley number of approaches to both of them, Grange was sold, the new owner Mr. the author has been unable to elicit any Somers demanding some ol the Jand further in formation on their history. back for exercising his horses.However, a compromise was reached with an ex­ Miscellanea change of land and the annual rent was At the junction of Cruagh and Glencul- reduced by way of compensation. Mr. len Roads at the Pine Forest a Mr. Ed- Somers died in 1921 and Marley mond O'Neill opened the Heather Tea Grange was again sold—to Colonel Rooms utilising internment huts pur­ Clarke who gave the club notice to quit chased from theCurragh. The tea-rooms as he required the land for horse breed­ were subsequently burnt down and the ing. The club claimed damages off only evidence of their existence is a Colonel Clarke for disturbance and the semi-circular wrought-iron arch over result was the granting of a 5-year lease. the entrance. Tea-rooms also existed However, the club was saved by the close to Cruagh cemetery and at one timely purchase of the adjoining Mar- time five members of the local very ta­ lay Estate by the Love family who of­ lented musical Coard family had a band fered land to the club on a long lease, and used to play there. and so the course was expanded to 18 Situated in Taylor's Lane is Ballyboden holes in 1925. The course was finally library, which was used for many years purchased outright from the Love fami- to hold concerts, dances and such like. lyinl967. When a member of a local poor family Grange was accorded the special hon­ died it was the custom to hold a fund- our in 1970 of being selected as the ve­ raising event in the library to assist

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Whitechurch Carnegie Library, Taylor's Lane. (Author) them. The late Jimmy O'Dea started however, continued on its way com­ his career there in 1919 and is remem­ plete with its headless driver and he is bered by at least one local resident. still to be seen shortly before midnight William Cos grave and Eamon de Valera on every seventh Christmas Eve on the both spoke at election meetings there. stretch of College Road between the Plans were drawn up in 1971 for a new rear entrance to St. Columba's College library and £64,000-odd was allocated and Kilmashogue bridge. for the purpose. The new building The Southern Cross Route refers to a would not have provided any accom­ scheme to provide a by-pass route modation for the holding of concerts or around the south side of the city. Be­ meetings, much to the disgust of the lo- ginning at as the West­ local people. The plans were shelved, ern Park motorway, it would enter the however, when the Southern Cross parish travelling in a roughly easterly Route plans were made public and the direction, crossing Stocking Lane just old building soldiers on with only occa­ south of Prospect House, passing be­ sional licks of paint being applied. tween Reckitts' factory and Edmonds- Just as one turns off the Ballyboden town National School on the Edmonds- Road on to Scholarstown Road the town Road, crossing Edmondstown road crosses over the Owen-Doher river golf course to meet Whitechurch Road by a bridge locally known as 'Billy's at Kilmashogue Bridge, thence along Bridge'. It is not certain after whom the College Road. Finally it would exit the bridge is named, although local legend parish on Grange Road en route to is that it is calledafterKing William. Why Sandy ford, where it would be joined by he should be commemorated in Bally­ a further feeder road coming up from boden is unknown. Along the bank of the direction and bypas­ the river at this point is 'the ghosts' sing Dundrum. It would have the effect walk', believed to be haunted, along of cutting the parish in two and under­ which no self-respecting locals would standably there has been strong local walk after dark. The Kilmashogue area opposition to the scheme. The motor­ also boasts its own ghost in the form of way, which is vital if the city is to be a headless coachman. It would appear prevented from being choked to death that British soldiers ambushed an open by an ever increasing volume of motor four-wheeled coach conveying people traffic, will undoubtedly be construct­ to a local mass rock during the penal ed, although lack of finances may delay times near midnight on Christmas Eve its completion. and beheaded the driver. The coach, BIBLIOGRAPHY

The sources consulted in preparing this work have been numerous and various. The following were found to have been of particular assistance: Antiquities of the Irish Countryside. S. P. O Riordain, 1971. The Augustinians. Reverend C. DeRomanis O.S.A. The Bank of Ireland 1 783-1946. F. G. Hall, 1949. The Beauties of Ireland.]. N. Brewer. 1825. Books of Survey and Distribution. —, 1690. Census of Population of Ireland. —, Various. The Children of Edmondstown Park. Denis Hayes Crofton. 1980. The Dodder—Its history .]. Fitzachary. 1901. Dolmens of Ireland. Borlase. Down Survey. Sir W. Petty. Dublin, History of County. F. E. Ball, 1904. Dublin, History of County. J. D'Alton, 1837. Dublin, Natural History of County. J. Rutty, 17 72. Dublin 1660-1860. M. Craig, 1952. Du blin Almanac & General Register in Ireland. Various. Du blin Historical Record. Various. General Valuation of Rateable Property in Ireland. Griffith, 1855. Hedge Schools of Ireland. P.J. Dowling. History and Antiquities ofTallaght. W. D. Handcock, 1899. History of St. Columba's College. G.K.White, 1980. Irish Builder. Various. Irish Historical Records. Various. Memoirs of the Archbishops of Dublin.]. D'Alton, 1838. Ordnance Survey—6 and 25 Series Maps. Various. Ordnance Survey Letters.]. O'Donovan, 1 837. Ordnance Survey Name Books. 1837. Patrick Pears e—The Triumph of Failure. R. D. Edwards, 197 7. Pigot's Directory. 1824H" Population of Ireland 1 750-1845. K. H. Connell. Rep ortorium Novum. —, Various. Royal Society of Antiquaries of Ireland Journals. Various. Statistical Survey of County Dublin. Lt. Col. J. Archer, 1801. Succession Lists of Church of Ireland, by kind permission of Representative Church Body. CanonJ. B. Leslie (unpublished). Thorn's Directory. 1844—. Topographical Dictionary of Ireland. Lewis, 1837. Whitechurch School Account & Attendance Books. —, 1835-80. Whitechurch Select Vestry Minute Books. —, 1824-1982.

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