Websites of the Week Embroiderers' Guild of WA Week 8 Each Address
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Textiles and Clothing the Macmillan Company
Historic, Archive Document Do not assume content reflects current scientific knowledge, policies, or practices. LIBRARY OF THE UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE C/^ss --SOA Book M l X TEXTILES AND CLOTHING THE MACMILLAN COMPANY NEW YORK • BOSTON • CHICAGO • DALLAS ATLANTA • SAN FRANCISCO MACMILLAN & CO., Limited LONDON • BOMBAY • CALCUTTA MELBOURNE THE MACMILLAN CO. OF CANADA, Ltd. TORONTO TEXTILES AXD CLOTHIXG BY ELLEX BEERS >McGO WAX. B.S. IXSTEUCTOR IX HOUSEHOLD ARTS TEACHERS COLLEGE. COLUMBIA U>aVERSITY AXD CHARLOTTE A. WAITE. M.A. HEAD OF DEPARTMENT OF DOMESTIC ART JULIA RICHMAX HIGH SCHOOL, KEW YORK CITY THE MACMILLAX COMPAXY 1919 All righU, reserved Copyright, 1919, By the MACMILLAN company. Set up and electrotyped. Published February, 1919. J. S. Gushing Co. — Berwick & Smith Co. Norwood, Mass., U.S.A. ; 155688 PREFACE This book has been written primarily to meet a need arising from the introduction of the study of textiles into the curriculum of the high school. The aim has been, there- fore, to present the subject matter in a form sufficiently simple and interesting to be grasped readily by the high school student, without sacrificing essential facts. It has not seemed desirable to explain in detail the mechanism of the various machines used in modern textile industries, but rather to show the student that the fundamental principles of textile manufacture found in the simple machines of primitive times are unchanged in the highl}^ developed and complicated machinerj^ of to-day. Minor emphasis has been given to certain necessarily technical paragraphs by printing these in type of a smaller size than that used for the body of the text. -
The Newsletter for the Principality of Cynagua, Kingdom of the West—May Coronet (2017)
Cover Photo Credit To: Ghislaine d'Auxerre. The Newsletter for the Principality of Cynagua, Kingdom of the West—May Coronet (2017) 2 The Vox This is a list of Officers who need a deputy or a successor. Please consider volunteering; it’s a lot of fun and a great way to keep Our Principality going. Please Contact the Officers directly for more information details on how to contact them can be found in regnum at the back of the Vox. Arts & Sciences: Deputy Chronicler: Deputy Constable: Successor/Deputy Copper Spoon: Successor ASAP Lists: Deputy/Successor Minister of the Bow: Successor/Deputy Seneschal: Deputy Regalia: Deputy Youth Point Minister: Successor/Deputy ASAP Needleworker’s Guild: Successor/Deputy (see Michaela or Clarice for details) The Vox 3 From the Prince and Princess of Cynagua Greetings unto Cynagua, We welcome you to our Coronet tourney. Saturday will be filled with games and classes on the Eric, followed by a large potluck. We would love it if everyone would join us and bring a dish to share. Then please join us for an evening of fun, dancing and merry making at the Casbah. Our gracious List Mistress has agreed to open the lists on Saturday afternoon for two hours, then reopen on Sunday at 8:00 am and close at 10:00 am sharp. Sunday shall be the day of the Coronet Tourney. Starting with fourth round you may not repeat the same weapon style two rounds in a row. This is to encourage fighters to use more than just one style of fighting. -
Text &Textile Text & Textile
1 TextText && TextileTextile 2 1 Text & Textile Kathryn James Curator of Early Modern Books & Manuscripts and the Osborn Collection, Beinecke Rare Book & Manuscript Library Melina Moe Research Affiliate, Beinecke Rare Book & Manuscript Library Katie Trumpener Emily Sanford Professor of Comparative Literature and English, Yale University 3 May–12 August 2018 Beinecke Rare Book & Manuscript Library Yale University 4 Contents 7 Acknowledgments 9 Introduction Kathryn James 13 Tight Braids, Tough Fabrics, Delicate Webs, & the Finest Thread Melina Moe 31 Threads of Life: Textile Rituals & Independent Embroidery Katie Trumpener 51 A Thin Thread Kathryn James 63 Notes 67 Exhibition Checklist Fig. 1. Fabric sample (detail) from Die Indigosole auf dem Gebiete der Zeugdruckerei (Germany: IG Farben, between 1930 and 1939[?]). 2017 +304 6 Acknowledgments Then Pelle went to his other grandmother and said, Our thanks go to our colleagues in Yale “Granny dear, could you please spin this wool into University Library’s Special Collections yarn for me?” Conservation Department, who bring such Elsa Beskow, Pelle’s New Suit (1912) expertise and care to their work and from whom we learn so much. Particular thanks Like Pelle’s new suit, this exhibition is the work are due to Marie-France Lemay, Frances of many people. We would like to acknowl- Osugi, and Paula Zyats. We would like to edge the contributions of the many institu- thank the staff of the Beinecke’s Access tions and individuals who made Text and Textile Services Department and Digital Services possible. The Yale University Art Gallery, Yale Unit, and in particular Bob Halloran, Rebecca Center for British Art, and Manuscripts and Hirsch, and John Monahan, who so graciously Archives Department of the Yale University undertook the tremendous amount of work Library generously allowed us to borrow from that this exhibition required. -
The South Australian Country Women' S
THE SOUTH AUSTRALIAN COUNTRY WOMEN’ S ASSOCIATION INCORPORATED RECOGNISED CRAFTS TAUGHT AT STATE SCHOOLS If not on this list, crafts must be entered as a NON RECOGNISED CRAFT 1949 Gloves, Slippers,Needle weaving, Macrame,Baskets,Weekend Bags 1950 Patchwork, Leatherwork, Rush mats, Broomstick Weaving, Cane Baskets,Felt Pictures, Double Stitchery 1951 Holbein, Italian Quilting, Embossed Leather 1952 Leather Embossing, Lampshades, Applique', Assisi 1953 Lavender Baskets, Leather Embossing, Italian Quilting 1954 Applique', Needle weaving, Broomstick 1955 Assisi, Holbein, Rugs from old material SCHOOLS STARTED AT HEAD QUARTERS 1956 Advanced Pottery, Florentine, Huckaback Darning 1957 Jacobean, Oriental Weaving (cane & plastic) Workbasket & lid, Huckaback Darning Cross Stitch 1958 Florentine, Pottery 1959 State Craft Exhibition 1960 Black Tudor Work, Macrame' Stool Seatings 1961 Drawn Fabric, Plastic Baskets (6 sided) on wooden frames 1962 Casual Bags, Dorset Stitch, Patterning 1963 Vanity Cases, Smocked Cushions 1964 Canvas Embroidery, Pottery, Revised Macrame' 1965 Cane Blackberry Baskets, Rush Seating and Huckabuck Mats 1966 Rush Flower Baskets, Hardanger, Waffle Weave 1967 Shadow Quilting, Twine Whisks, Raffia Covered Boxes (Tenerife) 1968 Tapestry Stitch, Crochet (Tricot), Drawn Fabric Edges 1969 Moccasins, Advanced Drawn Fabric 1970 Coiled Raffia, Needle Weaving 1971 Felt Toys, Holbein or Double Running, Assisi, Cross Stitch 1972 Hard Book Covers (soft spine) Sicilian Cut and Drawn 1973 Macrame, Log Cabin & Cathedral Patchwork, Hard Book -
Textile Glossary Astrakhan Fabric: Knitted Or Woven
Textile Glossary Astrakhan fabric: knitted or woven fabric that imitates the looped surface of newborn karakul lambs Armscye: armhole Batiste: the softest of the lightweight opaque fabrics. It is made of cotton, wool, polyester, or a blend. Bertha collar: A wide, flat, round collar, often of lace or sheer fabric, worn with a low neckline in the Victorian era and resurrected in the 1940s Bishop sleeves: A long sleeve, fuller at the bottom than the top, and gathered into a cuff Box pleats: back-to-back knife pleats Brocade: richly decorative woven fabric often made with colored silk Broken twill weave: the diagonal weave of the twill is intentionally reversed at every two warp ends to form a random design Buckram: stiff loosely woven fabric Cambric: a fine thin white linen fabric Cap sleeves: A very short sleeve covering only the shoulder, not extending below armpit level. Cartridge pleat: formed by evenly gathering fabric using two or more lengths of basting stitches, and the top of each pleat is whipstitched onto the waistband or armscye. Chambray fabric: a lightweight clothing fabric with colored (often light blue) warp and white weft yarns Changeable fabric: warp and weft are different colors, when viewed from different angles looks more one color than the other Chemisette: an article of women's clothing worn to fill in the front and neckline of any garment Chiffon: lightweight, balanced plain-woven sheer fabric woven of alternate S- and Ztwist crepe (high-twist) yarns producing fabric with a little stretch and slightly rough texture -
Classification Systems Used in the Library. Photograph Classification
M'"^ A i T*T/ **7 fyxntll Itafomttg |fitatg BOUGHT WITH THE INCOME FROM THE SAGE ENDOWMENT FUND THE GIFT OF Henrg W. Sage 1891 v The date shows when this volume was taken. To renew this bookook copyCopy the callcal No. and give to tile— libnlibrarian." HOME USE RULES. All Books subject to Recall. Books not used for instruction or research S8J*'l* are returnable within 4 'weeks. Volumes of periodi- - cals and of namphlets are held in the library as much as possible. For special purposes they are given out for a limited time. Borrowers should not use their library privileges for tfie ben e- fit of other perrons. Books not needed during recess periods should be returned to the library, or arrange- ments made for their return during borrow- er's absence, if wanted. Books | needed by. more than one person are held on the reserve list. , Books of special .value and gift books, when the giver wishes it, are not allowed to circulate. Readers are asked to report all cases of books marked or muti- lated. Do not deface books by marks and writing. Universl, 2697.A7 NaT v Li°rary olin <? . v f— r- c Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924031032893 THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART CLASSIFICATION SYSTEMS ^ ^-tUSED IN v :S : ~k .i i THE LIBRARY •' -„'• • * ' M C M X I CLASSIFICATION SYSTEMS USED IN THE LIBRARY THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART CLASSIFICATION SYSTEMS USED IN THE LIBRARY PHOTOGRAPH CLASSIFICATION BY ETHEL A. -
Laces and Lace Articles Laces and Lace Articles 223
222 LACES AND LACE ARTICLES LACES AND LACE ARTICLES 223- TABLE 107.—Rates of wages paid in the domestic and English bobbinet indun ' TABLE 108.—Index of the cost of living fixed by the Regional Commission of the n& for auxiliary processes Prefecture of the Rhone Process Domestic rates English rates i Index Index Date figure figure $0.145 per bundle (10 pounds). 4Kd.=$0. 0862 per bundle (10 pounds'! 30/2 $0.160 per bundle J 5Kd.= . 1115 per bundle. " December 1926. 500 40/2 $0.177 per bundle 6Jid.= . 1267 per bundle. August.1920 461 $0.207 per bundle December 1924. December 1927. 7Kd.= . 1521 per bundle. 379 March 1928 459 80/2 $0,355 per bundle... 10Md.= . 2129 per bundle. December 1925. The average weekly wages for Less 26 percent. this process paid by tbe firms from whom these fig ures were obtained is $21. IX. COST DATA "Warping f$0.85 to $0.90 per hour 15d. per hour = $0.3042. 1. Material costs (.Average per week, $40. Week of 48 hours, £3 = $14.60, less 25 percent Brass-bobbin winding... f$0.26 per 1,000 f All gages, up to and including 125 yards "„ In the manufacture of bobbinets yarns are used for two purposes, \$0.45, $0.50, $0.60 per hour \ 1,000, 6Md.=$0.1369. * aS' ljCr Average per week, $27.25 J4d. extra for every 25 yards or portion the^M for warp and for brass bobbins; the ascertainment of the amount of less 33% percent. each in a wmding does not present any difficulty. -
American Lace Michelle C. Chase Master of Liberal Arts Winthrop
American Lace Michelle C. Chase Master of Liberal Arts Winthrop University Spring 2004 2 Table of Contents Acknowledgements 3 The World in Lace 4 Needle Lace 9 Bobbin Lace 21 Knitting 39 Crochet 46 Tatting 53 Works Cited 57 Resources 60 3 Acknowledgements I would like to thank all the lace makers who have helped me in my research, especially the members of my local guilds, the Golden Bobbins and the North Carolina Regional Lacemakers. Special thanks to Ann Geddes for advice and editing, Sue Miller and Marg Harbaugh for letting me use their libraries and Susan Banbury for the Princess Lace Loom photos. My membership in the International Old Lacers, Inc. has been instrumental in my journey through the world of lace. Kathy Kozoloski, the IOLI librarian provided many beautiful and informative books. Irma Osterman, the needle lace editor for the IOLI Bulletin, generously allowed me to use her beautiful Youghal lace fan pattern and suggested books for further study. She also provided a photo of a lace she owns that was made by Native Americans. Tamara Duvall and Susie Johnson, both IOLI members, generously provided designs and advice. I have met many wonderful people all over the world through IOLI and I treasure their friendships. I would like to thank Dr. David Rankin at Winthrop University for his advice and editing, and my son, Clinton Chase, for much needed technical assistance. 4 The World in Lace The study of textiles provides a glimpse into the lives of people, especially women, of our and other times. Which clothing was worn, when, why, how, and by whom it was produced all tell of the social values at that time in history. -
Nets Through Time Filet Lace
EXHIBIT CATALOG NETS THROUGH TIME NETTING AND ITS VITAL CONNECTION TO FILET LACE SEPTEMBER. 26, 2015 - SEPTEMBER 3, 2016 SCXHEDULED TOURS: MON-SAT 1:00. 3:00 & 5:00 PM LACISMUSEUM.ORG $2.00 ADMISSION LACIS MUSEUM of LACE and TEXTILES 2 9 8 2 A DELI N E S TREET , B ERKELEY , C A 9 4 7 0 3 THE LACIS MUSEUM OF LACE AND TEXTILES MLT was established in October of 2004, as the legacy of Kaethe Kliot, who Lwas the spirit of the Lacis Textile Center and Retail Store, a haven for the textile community and all involved in virtually every aspect of the textile arts…a place where she provided support, encouragement and knowledge to all. This spirit re- mains, after her untimely passing in 2002, in the Museum which encompasses all that she loved. This spirit is best exemplified by comments received from those she touched: …whenever I needed to recharge my spirit, I knew that a visit to Lacis would do the trick… …her sense of the appropriate, that just-rightness which made Laces the alluring treasure trove that draws us in… …her enthusiasm was contagious and she always wanted to share it. She was the consummate teacher… …she had a mission to share everything she knew… …she did what she loved and her passion and enthusiasm was always evident… …Kaethe was the sort of person one takes with them – part of who I am is because of her… …She will be remembered for many things; for me it will be a sense that all is possible… he core of LMLT is the lace and textile collection of Jules & Kaethe Kliot, Trepresenting 40 years of dedication to the preservation of the finest of human handiwork. -
E-CL008 Priscilla Hedebo and Cutwork Book
0 /..;/~t;-1-: . .,,, _;,, ow ea Bound V olumes of t Priscilla Fan In t Hundreds of thousands of Ne dleworkers have purcha.sed th paper-covered Priscilla Instruction Books, and have been thoroughly delighted with their clear, simple instructions fo. various kinds of Fancy Work. However, there has long been a demand for these books in a more substantial form so that they could be added to home libraries and withstand the hard usage given books of reference. In responae to this demand, we now offer you the entire aet of Priscilla I atruction ooks, handaomely and durably bound in red Law Buckram, with titlea tamped in gold. Price, $1.35 per Volume, Postpaid Each volume contains four Instruction Books as follows : VOLUME I VOLUME Il Irish Crochet No. 1 Tat "ng lriah Crochet No. 2 Hard ng r Filet Crochet W ool Knitting Edginga and lna rtiona W ool Crochet VOLUME III VOLUME IV VOLUME V Bead W or Pu ched Wor Embroidery Filet Crochet No. 2 Baake ry Fre e nd Eyelet Embroidery Crochet Bedapreada cram ' lored Croaa Stitch No. 1 Netting Bobbin L ce Colored Croaa Stitch No. 2 Drawn W ork Every book in the Priscilla Library is a genuine teacher. Ali the different stitches are fully described and explained, then in addition there are a multitude of illustrations showing stitches, details, motifs and·finished pieces, all of which makes the work just as clear and simple for the beginner as for the expert needleworker. Send your order for the voJumes you wish at once as the first edition is limited. -
(I) Tulles and Other Net Fabrics
58.04 58.04 - Tulles and other net fabrics, not including woven, knitted or crocheted fabrics; lace in the piece, in strips or in motifs, other than fabrics of headings 60.02 to 60.06 (+). 5804.10 - Tulles and other net fabrics - Mechanically made lace : 5804.21 - - Of man-made fibres 5804.29 - - Of other textile materials 5804.30 - Hand-made lace (I) TULLES AND OTHER NET FABRICS These products are used for making curtains, bedspreads or similar household furnishings, veils, ladies’ garments, in embroidery, etc. They are generally of silk, man-made fibres, cotton or linen. (A) Tulle and other bobbin-net fabrics consist of warp threads with weft threads which twist round each warp thread and run diagonally from selvedge to selvedge, half the weft being inclined in one direction and the other half inclined in the other direction (see Figure 1). These wefts form an open mesh with the warp; the meshes may be in regular hexagonal form, square, or diamond-shaped (Neuville net). Another variety of tulle in hexagonal form (Mechlin net) consists of warp threads and a system of bobbin threads which pass longitudinally between two warp threads only (see Figure 2). XI-5804-1 58.04 Fig. 2 Fig. 1 MECHELIN NET TULLE A - Warp threads B and C - Oblique weft threads XI-5804-2 58.04 (B) Tulle bobinot is a special tulle composed of three series of threads : certain straight parallel warp threads as in ordinary tulle, pattern threads (so called because they produce the pattern) running alternately alongside the straight threads and temporarily away from them to another (usually adjacent) straight thread, thus producing triangular meshes interspersed with spaces of trapezoid or other form, and crossing threads which twist round the straight warp and bind the pattern threads to it (see Figure 3). -
Webside Ralph E
Number 6, April 2005 Webside Ralph E. Griswold http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/ Contents this-month.html Graphics .............................................................. 1 When the first additions are made in May, Recent Additions to the Website .................... 1 this-month.html will become the May page. To get English Translations of Titles Needed .......... 2 the April additions after that time, use From Our Mail.................................................... 2 2005-04.html Special Collections on the Web ...................... 3 Website Catabase? ............................................. 3 Highlights Exploring the Website, Part 5: Periodicals ....................................................... 4 April was a banner month for the website in two areas: books and periodicals. Weaving Drafts and Copyright ....................... 5 Books University of Washington Libraries Special Collections ........................................ 7 • Peter Collingwood‘s two rug weaving books, Lace Corner, Part 5: Filet Lace ......................... 8 The Techniques of Rug Weaving, and Rug Weav- ing Techniques: Beyond the Basics. This is a CD List ................................................................. 9 truly marvelous addition to the website, and Web Links ......................................................... 10 we all should be grateful to Peter Collingwood for his generosity in making this possible. • Two weaving pattern books, A. A. Baldwin’s Graphics A Treatise on Designing and Weaving Plain and Fancy