JULY 2013

Japan’s number one English language magazine DISCOVER KANAGAWA DAY TRIPS, MUSEUMS, SAMURAI COSPLAY...

FRESH FACES SUMMER BEAUTY TIPS

MUSIC INTERVIEW FUJI ROCKERS

FOOTBALL FEVER KAGAWA COMES HOME THE FUTURE OF THE SAMURAI BLUE

ALSO IN THIS ISSUE: Top news from Asia Daily Wire, sommeliers, the myth of mono-ethnicity, events and more...

JULY 2013 CONTENTS 18

TRAVEL: KANAGAWA The prefecture next door has more than just great views like this to offer.

14 © Manchester United 30 28

SPORT: Kagawa Returns MUSIC: TAME IMPALA BEAUTY: Summer’s here He’s more than just a shirt seller, and he’s Kyle Mullin spoke with of Summer skincare tips from the experts, back. We also met ’s next superstar. Tame Impala ahead of Fuji Rock. and why shiso is used in face creams.

7 Asia Daily Wire 12 Interning in a Crisis 20 Culture: Stampedes, floods, lightning strikes – but St. Mary’s International School student There’s “samurai cosplay’ and much more it’s not all bad news. brings Syria closer to home. than temples and shrines in Kamakura.

9 Opinion 16 Sushi Sommeliers 46 Movies Is the idea of a mono-ethnic Japan just Want wine with your Japanese seafood? A bumper month for film fans this a myth? First you’ll have to create it... month, we give you the lowdown. 10 Business: Digital Hearts 19 Travel: Jogashima 48 Agenda From bankruptcy in childhood to major At the tip of the Miura peninsula our Top shows and events around Tokyo as deals with Microsoft... writer found much to admire. we head into summer. FROM THE EDITOR

he army of otaku, as we’re calling them on page 10, grew from a team of 15 men working in a six-tatami room, “saved” JULY 2013 Tfrom life as social misfits by one man. Eiichi Miyazawa was motivated to set up his own company in the main by a desire to “give Publisher Bulbous Cell Media Group geeks a chance,” having himself risen from a family with a bankrupt Chairman Ray Pedersen background – he’d held off bailiffs at the door as an elementary school kid. Against the advice of the people closest to him he threw Executive Producer Asi Rinestine away everything, “except for a fax machine,” and started on the road Editor Matthew Holmes to what we find is quite a success story. Art Director Liam “Big Dog” Ramshaw “A microcosm of Japan” is how the governor of Kanagawa Designer Ayako Fujiwara proudly described his prefecture to us. Yuji Kuroiwa used to be a Illustrator Liam Akin journalist and TV news anchor, but now he’s tasked with giving life to the prefecture not only in the halls and corridors of his office in Media Director Kotaro Toda Account Executives Nobu (Nick) Nakazawa but also by traveling abroad to spread the word, and of Ohad Elbaz course speaking to us. We were quite impressed with a man who Masaya “Guacamoto” Okamoto obviously feels comfortable chatting to expats like ourselves and felt our exchange would nicely introduce a section that includes much of Media Consultants Mary Rudow Marketing Ingrid Dubreuil what Kanagawa has to offer, including as diverse a day trip as you might find: are you in to temples or more of a factory spotter? Either Strategic Consultant Andy Maher way we have you covered… Compared to a Korean who can win man of the match without Society Bill Hersey even playing, may not yet be the god-like figure many Film Christopher O’Keeffe expected him to become when he joined Manchester United, though to the bank managers and sponsors he’s certainly proving his worth. Editorial Associates Vivian Morelli But is that a little cynical? Maybe United’s tour of Japan this month Matthew Hernon isn’t all about the money? We look at some of the issues on pages 14 Henry Watts and 15 and also spoke with the youngster who looks set to be the next Asia Daily Wire Mace Bertumen Japanese megastar. A lot of us will be on the way to a weekend at Fuji Rock before IT Manager Nick Adams too long, and we’re pleased to have an interview with Kevin Parker Development Manager Stephane Boudoux of Tame Impala, the Aussie band who will headline the Red Marquee Fondue Guru Paul Romelot Finance & Admin Maki Kiriishi on the festival’s Friday night. He talks of a perfectionist approach to DBA Iryna Sundutova the recording process and the “crucifying” nature of self-deprecation during that process, but also of coming out the other side, maturing, and looking forward to a summer of live shows. EST. Corky Alexander, 1970

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JULY 2013

Japan’s number one English language magazine Cover photo: View of and Mt. Fuji DISCOVER KANAGAWA Follow Tokyo Weekender on Twitter: DAY TRIPS, MUSEUMS, SAMURAI COSPLAY... @weekenderjapan

FRESH FACES SUMMER BEAUTY TIPS

MUSIC INTERVIEW FUJI ROCKERS TAME IMPALA Like us on Facebook: FOOTBALL FEVER KAGAWA COMES HOME THE FUTURE OF THE SAMURAI BLUE www.facebook.com/tokyo.weekender Fried Sushi by Liam Akin. To see more of Liam’s work check out www.friedsushi.net ALSO IN THIS ISSUE: Top news from Asia Daily Wire, sushi sommeliers, the myth of mono-ethnicity, Tokyo events and more... w

APRIL 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com ASIA DAILY WIRE | NEWS | 7

sia Daily Wire is your go-to place for all the latest news from across the Asia Pacific region. Covering business, culture, entertainment, Lightning strikes kill dozens in sports and breaking news, Asia Daily Wire is updated round the eastern India clock in real time and picks and chooses the best headlines from Nearly 30 people Asources across Asia—doing all the hard work for you. Here is a roundup of are believed to have some of the ADW editor’s picks from the past month... been killed in a lightning storm in India. Lightning struck as Japan eases David Beckham many as 27 people, including six children, in visa rules for stampede hurts 7 separate incidents as pre-monsoon showers South East Asian in China battered the eastern state of Bihar, where villagers living in bamboo and grass huts tourists The mere presence are extremely vulnerable. Japan has eased of football tourist visa superstar David requirements for several Southeast Asian Beckham sent hundreds of Chinese fans into Hong Kong countries in a bid to revive the economy a frenzy, resulting in a stampede that left police target through tourism. Tourists from Thailand at least seven people hurt as they rushed to knuckleduster and Malaysia will no longer need entry catch a glimpse. Three police officers, two bags visas, while visitors from the Philippines university security guards and two students British designer and Vietnam will be eligible for multiple- – one of them Japanese – were injured in Alexander entry visas, the government said. the dash. McQueen has caused a stir in Hong Taliban shoot South Korean Kong, with bags with handles resembling dead 10 tourists airlines ban knuckledusters soon to be banned from its in Pakistan attack shark fin as airport. Authorities said they will seize the bags, which could potentially be harmful as Islamic militants cargo they can be used to pack a mean punch. dressed as South Korea’s policemen shot two largest dead ten foreign tourists and a Pakistani airlines said they are banning shark Myanmar guide in an unprecedented attack at their fins from their cargo flights as part of a to release all base camp on one of the world’s highest global campaign to curb the trade in the ‘prisoners of mountains in northern Pakistan. The marine species. Korean Air and Asiana conscience’ gunmen reportedly abducted two local both imposed a “complete ban” on the Myanmar’s guides to take them to the remote camp and shipment of shark fin. remaining political shot the tourists at point-blank range. China jails detainees, including all prisoners of Flood-hit India dissident’s conscience, will soon be freed, President could take years brother-in-law Thein Sein has pledged as part of sweeping to rebuild for 11 years’ reforms in the once junta-ruled nation. In a radio address, the reformist leader said a The devastation A court in China committee had been formed to review cases in northern India has sentenced the “that confuse criminal offences and political left by monsoon brother-in-law of an imprisoned Chinese offences”. floods and landslides could take years to dissident to 11 years in jail on charges rebuild, a top official said, as the number of of fraud. Liu Hui, the brother-in-law of deaths climbed to around 1,000. Fresh rains Nobel Peace Prize laureate Liu Xiaobo, hampered search and rescue operations for was found guilty by a Beijing court of For all the top news of 2013 or to some 10,000 people after homes, bridges and defrauding a man called Zhang Bing of read more on these stories, visit: roads were washed away. $490,000 along with another colleague. www.asiadailywire.com

ETHNICITY | OPINION | 9

make up the numbers in elderly care instead. The Myth of Her reasoning is instructive as to the sort of trepidation felt towards immigration in Yamato parliament, since robots need only to be programmed, whereas immigrants with their MONO-ETHNICITY own affinities place on Japan the demands of assimilation and, with it, all the unpredictability Is there a psychological barrier between the Japanese and immigration? that conservatives apparently abhor. Interactions with foreigners on the streets are rather more benevolent than these policies It is the most common and universal of ice- and one race”, as if to prove the enduring might suggest, but there is no denying the real breakers, but “where do you come from?” is nature of the “myth” Lie describes. He lack of acquaintance with diversity in Japan. The a curious question, especially for those who, neglects to add, of course, that Japan has Q&A section of one of the most popular Tokyo like me, do not apparently ‘look like’ where one Emperor with Korean blood, one restaurants – the ninja-themed restaurant in they say they come from. The question can parliament based largely on Westminster, Akasaka – asks, for example, “May we bring mean “where were you born?” or “where and one language imported from China. in foreigners?” It answers in the affirmative, were your parents born?” or even “where Taro Kono, contrastingly a myth- thankfully, then continues, “there are many do you feel you belong to?” for those who busting LDP member of the House of that foreigners cannot eat. Can [the might not feel any particular attachment to Representatives who has lobbied restaurant] accommodate this?” wherever they happened to have been pulled to radically increase the before answering that “there out of the uterus. As a British man in every number of immigrants in Taro Aso are times where we cannot sense, it is a simple enough question for me Japan, went as far as to neglects to add that [accommodate them] of to answer, but my Indian appearance often tell me in an interview course, but we will do what means I have to field further questions to give that Lie’s “myth” has Japan has one Emperor we can”, as if the foreigners confirmation, to whoever needs it, that British congealed; that there with Korean blood, one who have ventured to nationality is no longer limited to white is a “psychological parliament based largely Tokyo and taken it upon folk. I have concluded, however, that the barrier” between themselves to try out a half-Japanese, or the misleadingly “foreign- the Japanese and on Westminster, and one novelty ninja-restaurant looking” Japanese with their larger noses and immigration – a point language imported are going to be the picky more exotic complexions, must encounter far which, after I pressed from China kind? Anyway, only asking the more of these questions than I, as well as those him further, he called question reveals what you might inevitable presumptions that national identity “xenophobia”. This, he call an ‘inclusive exclusivity’ – that is and ethnicity are inseparable somehow. claimed, was the driving force to say, an acknowledgment of the existence In his book Multiethnic Japan, John Lie of behind his party’s repeated blocking of of an exclusive club that knows foreigners not the University of California, Berkeley, finds his proposed immigration legislation to as members, but as guests. these ethnically-based perceptions of national help solve the problem of shrinking labour These guests may be, and almost always identity very prominent in Japan, due in markets. They always “change the topic” are, treated with the utmost kindness and part to the legacy of what he calls, the “myth to women or seniors when discussing the grace by Japanese people, but they nonetheless of mono-ethnic Japan” – a denial contrived issue, he said, as though they are mutually retain their transient, non-member status in after the war with the hope of building unity, exclusive with increased immigration. Japan because of the protracted illusions of or rather, uniformity in aid of the recovery. This “barrier” could also have been parliament toward diversity and immigration: Japan’s ethnic minorities – Koreans, Ainu, behind the selective immigration of the that they are disproportionately criminal and Okinawans, Chinese, Burakumin, people of Latin American nikkeijin in the 90s, who unstable, that they seek to displace Japanese mixed ancestry, and others – though rich in were awarded working visas to Japan purely culture, that they can offer little of their own their own cultures and histories were, on the strength of ancestral blood ties, and culture to Japan, and that it is heritage not he argues, subsumed under a national later, the cold-hearted unemployment- values that constitute the essence of Japan. polity dominated by the Yamato reducing attempts in 2009 to send Mr. Kono represents the small, if expanding, majority, repressive of all related to some of them back, or indeed, side to the discussion that wants to challenge war, colonialism, and diversity. the 2005 Supreme Court ruling, this status quo and repackage foreigners as The “myth” largely exists after a decade-long fight, in which unthreatening, and he may well find a more today as a political currency for Chung Hyang Gyun was barred from receptive audience for his reforms as Japan particular flag-waving politicians becoming a supervisor at a public watches its aging demographic decline further who want to pit themselves as health center because she

Image: Taro Kono (Creative Commons) and further; its elderly less supported, its protectorates of Japanese, was technically a foreigner labour markets shrinking, and its social and or Yamato, culture against (according to nationality healthcare bills climbing. The pragmatic case, the often-exaggerated laws), even though her as compelling as it is, has done relatively little “threat” of diversity and mother was Japanese, she so far to make the myth-makers flinch, but the foreign forces. Former was born in Japan, and had momentum is against them and it is getting Foreign Minister and lived here all her life. harder and harder to deny the contribution Prime Minister Taro Aso, Carer Yasuko Amahisa that foreigners, mixed raced Japanese and for instance, said in 2005 thinks Japan is “decidedly anti- others have made in what is actually, multi- that Japan was unique immigration” and unwilling ethnic if not yet multi-cultural Japan. for having “one nation, to tap into the foreign labour one civilization, one market, which, she says, is why language, one culture, robots have been employed to by Henry Watts

www.tokyoweekender.com JULY 2013 10 | BUSINESS | DIGITAL HEARTS

By Ray Pedersen & Matthew Holmes

month, they could make a life in Tokyo. “I Eiichi Miyazawa’s army of otaku has helped him rise from a told them, about 15 of them, that that was bankrupted family to his position as the owner of a multinational my target, and that I was going to set up a company.” tech company with clients any business would be proud of. Digital In the absence of startup funds for Hearts finds bugs, and he wants a skill-set he says is unique to premises, Miyazawa threw away all of his stuff, “except for a fax machine,” and against Japanese to help the young people of his country rise out of the advice of family members who feared he’d repeat his parents’ failures, “started a unemployment and take on the world company in my tiny six-tatami room.” In cramped conditions, with logistical iyazawa never wanted led Miyazawa to Tokyo and into a career as a issues (there was no money to buy a game to be a CEO. “My father jobbing actor and singer, but then something so they would have to borrow; they didn’t ran his own company, changed. even have paper so clients would need to but when I was eight he “Then my father needed money for provide basics) those 15 or so staff started went into bankruptcy – surgery – about half a million yen. Fortunately to get work. Miyazawa proudly talks of the over night I went from my brother was able to foot the bill,” early voracity of the company: “I asked being the president’s precious son to the Miyazawa, who is now 40, says, them how they were so good at elementary school boy with the job of taking “but I started to regret my care Otaku testing and finding bugs and care of the debt collectors who came to our free lifestyle, where ‘money they would tell me they door. I’d tell them that ‘unfortunately they was nothing’. I wanted to had a really could ‘smell it’ or ‘just feel are out’ but in fact he had run away and my be able to help.” bad image in it’; I was sure we could be mother would be hiding.” He had started picking Japanese society. a success.” His mother would also go on to have up temp-work with a Digital Hearts now has financial problems (her pachinko and software development They had difficulty 8,000 staff, in Japan, restaurant business went bankrupt when company, mainly communicating, but LA, Korea and Thailand, he was 23); this was not to be the life for testing new software, I thought I could making games as well as Miyazawa. but still had a desire, he testing them, so how did “When my mother lost it all too I saw tells us, to “do something help them they achieve such growth? everything, how a company can vanish, for others.” The first big break came what happens to the employees and how “I realized that the precious when Microsoft was to launch the much trouble and resentment it causes. I people in my life, the people I wanted Xbox in Japan. was determined not to become a president to and could help, were my colleagues.” The company called Miyazawa and for that reason, I wanted to do something They were working on a job-by-job basis – decided to test his testers by pitting them that wouldn’t have a bad effect on others.” “we weren’t even part-timers, we had no against a team of 50 in Seattle – Digital Hearts The rippling consequences of bankruptcy guarantee of work” – earning only when had already expanded to a similar number. there was a client need and laid off when a “They were so impressed they invited us project ended. over there to teach them our methods. We Miyazawa was OK, he was singing, but his went for a week, for most of us our first time colleagues were not. “They were all so-called abroad.” ‘otaku’ types. It was the first time in my life I But Miyazawa suggests that it was had much to do with this section of society, impossible to pass on every aspect because and I was quite impressed by them.” such a big part of their skill lies in that which “They were innocent people who just can’t be taught, an innate Japanese trait/ couldn’t find their place in society. Maybe in propensity for precision and meticulousness. English ‘geek’ has not such a bad meaning, Japanese people are all checkers, “we but otaku had a really bad image in are all debuggers, it’s a unique national Japanese society. They had difficulty character,” he says. He even jokes that it’s communicating, often after one reason successive prime ministers keep losing confidence in their being found out and ousted. school days, but I thought In the idea that non-Japanese might not I could help them.” be able to display the same level of skill in The plan was this particular field Miyazawa sees great simple – if there was a potential not only for his company – maybe a way to guarantee each ‘checked’ or ‘inspected by Japan’ could have of them 150,000 yen a the same sway as the Made in Japan label

JULY 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com once had, he suggests. “Originality is important,” Miyazawa says. “Each country should understand its own character and utilize that properly to be successful in the global market.” He talks of recent developments in cyber-security – in the news as much as ever – and suggests that essentially bug checking and loophole finding are the same thing. “Our 8,000 debuggers are 8,000 hackers at the same time.” “Though Japan has no nuclear weapon, nor army, we can still protect the world in the cyber-security field by utilizing our character.” It’s a bold claim, but it has a noble motivation. “In Japan there are about 800,000 NEETs (young people not in employment or training) and about 4 million job-hopping part-timers. They form a massive potential work force for the cyber security business. We should put them to practical use.” Miyazawa says the sector has something in common with the alcohol industry when economic times are hard, and that Digital Hearts was lucky in the wake of the Lehman fall of 2008 – his company were listed just before the collapse: “Our stock prices didn’t decline – people tell me it’s a rare case but I think when people have less money, they stop going out and start playing games instead.” Maybe they were lucky, but business success cannot simply be about market factors and skill sets. Does he have any advice for a young person starting his or her own company? “I would say that you must value your relationships with all the people you meet. Cherishing each encounter with a person, that is the most important thing in the Japanese market and is 50% of business success.” “We started our business with zero yen, and when the Microsoft project ended I thought we might go into bankruptcy, but that’s when personal relationships we’d built up paid off – the people who used to work there transferred to other companies and thought of us and came back with many business opportunities and good advice. Of course good planning and sufficient capital are important to starting a new business, but caring about others is more critical. I would advise a young founder to place high priority on the people surrounding them.”

www.tokyoweekender.com JULY 2013 12 | FEATURE | SYRIA Interning in a Crisis St. Mary’s International School student Mackenzie Lee speaks about a recent placement with the Japan Association for UNHCR

ake a long, hard look. We all have at the very least a vague, generic sense of the Syrian crisis – the internal conflict,T the boundless carnage, and the displaced civilians. Media outlets around the globe have used phrases like ‘enemy-combatants’ or ‘fog of war’ or ‘collateral damage’, clouding our understanding of this unmitigated humanitarian disaster. Understandably, or inevitably, many of us don’t know what to do about or how to help those affected by the Syrian crisis. And that’s fine. Sadly, personal involvement in a war half-way around the globe just doesn’t appeal too many of us, and incomplete information about the matter has only exacerbated our overarching apathy in regards to this situation. Heck, I’ll be the first to admit that I initially had little, almost no concern about the situation in Syria. My involvement in Japan Association for UNHCR has Over in Minami-Aoyama, however, an assembly of transformed my outlook on refugees around the world. about 40 people has exhausted countless hours over the I’ve come to realize through observation and experience past 15 years attempting to buck this unfortunate trend that what we often assume to be a substantial level of of apathy. The Japan Association for UNHCR, which understanding regarding such crises exists by and large works in close correspondence with the UN Refugee only on a superficial level. The issues surrounding such Agency (UNHCR), has sought to raise public awareness crises and the refugees involved are more important than of crises around the globe and to stimulate general the simple relocation of a mass group of people; the bigger interest in the resulting exoduses of refugees. In the past, picture provokes us to introspectively search the morals they have helped refugees in the Balkans, Afghanistan, and humanitarian concerns behind such global problems. The Japan Association for UNHCR has spent hours Darfur, Haiti, the Tohoku region and, most recently, As of now, the Syrian crisis has raged on into its third attempting to spread this Syria. The UN Refugee Agency as a whole is mandated year with no apparent signs of slowing down – the recent message to the public and to protect, assist, and educate refugees around the globe G8 summit in the UK notwithstanding. What started as cultivate a spirit of empathy as well as improve upon such refugees’ situations from innocuous riots against the regime of Bashar al-Assad and compassion in an age a humanitarian standpoint, and though the agency is a during the Arab Spring has developed into a bona fide largely devoid of it. To member of the United Nations Development Group as the war between Shiite Muslim-backed Assad and his Sunni find out more and to see famous UNICEF, UNESCO, WHO, and WFP are, it is not Muslim pro-democratic opposition. And while the war what you can do to help as well-known as the aforementioned groups and often has steadily simmered and gained steam, the exodus of from here in Japan, visit requires subsidiary support to make ends meet. The Syrian refugees has correspondingly accelerated, with the Japan Association for NPO known as Japan Association for UNHCR attempts to over a million refugees arriving in neighboring nations in UNHCR website at: instigate genuine public support for the hardships that just the past six months. As a whole, 1.5 million Syrians www.japanforunhcr.org refugees around the globe face and ultimately helps the have sought refuge in neighboring nations such as Turkey, UN Refugee Agency meet fundraising objectives. Lebanon, Iraqi Kurdistan, Jordan, and Iraq – current I have recently been blessed with the opportunity predictions show that by the end of 2013, over 3 million to work with Japan Association for UNHCR. While as a refugees will have escaped from the tumult in Syria. More high school intern I have by no means assumed a major than half of such refugees are children, and more than role in the organization, I have developed first-hand 75% of the refugees are under the age of 18 or are women. knowledge of the ins and outs of the group and have Years without education, psychological trauma from witnessed the genuine passion that stems from each and witnessing various deaths and sexual abuse has and will every employee. And though in its present state Japan continue to hamper these young minds. The Syrian crisis Association for UNHCR may be a small organization is only superficially a clash between Bashar al-Assad and that many Japanese, let alone foreigners don’t know of, his opposition or a debate about whether the United States I know that the spirit that this group attempts to foster should intervene in another war; indeed, the far-reaching takes precedence over its quantitative fundraising effects of the battle are truly shown in the humanitarian achievements. crimes committed to third-party individuals.

JULY 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com

By Matthew Hernon

hey will come with a new manager and some of the world’s most high profile players, yet when Man Utd take to the field against Cerezo OsakaT and Yokohama F. Marinos in July most of the attention will be on one man, the side’s number 26 who was plying his trade in Japan’s second tier only four Shinji Kagawa (© Manchester United) seasons ago. Shinji Kagawa is set to cut his summer holiday short (he was due an extra three weeks because of international commitments) in order to be part of the Red Devils’ squad for their two matches in his homeland. Such is Man Utd’s appeal, the games would have no doubt sold out anyway, but with the former Cerezo man there the games take on an extra significance. Teammate Patrice Evra sees a number of similarities with his friend Park Ji-sung, a player who was once awarded the Man of the Match award in a game he wasn’t playing Japan perhaps no longer has the financial far more than a shirt seller. A joy to watch in while on tour with the club in Korea: clout it once did, with no major European at times, his intelligent link up play, ability “I remember we played a friendly side having toured here since Bayern to drift between the lines and deadliness in against Japan for France and the Japanese Munich in 2008. This summer, along with front of goal made him a crowd favourite fans went crazy whenever Shinji touched Man Utd, Arsenal will also play two games at the Westfalenstadion. Hitting the net 21 the ball,” the Frenchman told ManUtd.com. here – against the Urawa Red Diamonds times in 49 appearances, he helped the side “It’ll be the same as when Ji was in Korea – I and – and the fact that to two Bundesliga titles and a German cup always used to joke with him that there is both sides have a Japanese player in their during his short stay there. God, then the King of Korea, and then Ji- squad (Ryo Miyaichi at Arsenal) seems no He has yet to hit those dizzying heights sung Park! I think Shinji will be the same.” coincidence. at United, despite winning the title in his The signing of Kagawa, whether they A tour like this, plus sponsorship deals first season. Hampered by an injury in admit it or not, was undoubtedly a major with Japanese companies such as Kagome November, he has been in and out of the factor in the club’s decision to come to and Gloops will no doubt add further fuel to side. When he did start games he looked Japan. It is, after-all, their first official tour the fire for those cynics who believe Kagawa bright early on before fading and being here since 2007 (though they did play here was signed purely for marketing purposes – substituted in the second half. His former a year later in the FIFA Club World Cup). you won’t go far in Tokyo without seeing his boss at Dortmund, the charismatic Jurgen Since then, they have played in countries face on a billboard or name on the back of Klopp, believes his talents are being wasted. like Hong Kong, China, Singapore, a fan’s replica kit. The financial benefits for “Shinji Kagawa is one of the best Indonesia, Thailand and Malaysia on the club are obvious, yet anyone who saw players in the world,” Klopp said in a recent multiple occasions. him play at Borussia Dortmund knows he is Guardian interview. “And now he plays 20

JULY 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com FOOTBALL | SPORT | 15 Yoichiro Kakitani: Photo by Sean Carroll IS Yoichiro Kakitani THE FUTURE OF JAPANESE FOOTBALL?

One player who will be There has been no grumbling despite his not being desperate to upstage given a chance for the national team. Now that Shinji Kagawa on his Japan has qualified for the World Cup, a call-up will return to Cerezo surely come soon. Joint top scorer in the J-League, is his former teammate, he has been the division’s stand-out performer so Yoichiro Kakitani. far this season. Widely regarded as the Comparisons with Shinji Kagawa are inevitable. most exciting talent in Starting out professionally at the same club, the the J-League, he has pair play in a similar position, with Kakitani the reportedly attracted owner of the iconic number eight shirt once worn interest from a number by the Man Utd player. Both are light, quick-footed, of German clubs, intelligent footballers with tremendous vision and including Champions a magnetic first touch. Culpi, the man responsible League finalists Borussia for turning Kagawa from a defensive midfielder Dortmund, after a string to an attacking one, believes Kakitani is capable of exhilarating displays of following in Kagawa’s footsteps and becoming a for the Osaka-based success in Europe. Listening to him speak though, club. It’s been quite a you get the impression he would advise him to steer turnaround for a player clear of the Premier League. who just a couple of years “Personally I don’t like English football,” he ago looked set to be yet tells us. “The ball is played in the air too much; you another wasted talent. don’t see the kind of intricate passing that you do Perhaps it was a case on the continent. That said it is great to see Shinji of too much, too soon. (Kagawa) playing for such a prestigious club like Japan’s best player in the Man Utd. 2007 FIFA U17 World Cup Right from the beginning it was evident that in South Korea, where he he was going to be an important player. On top of Shinji Kagawa (© Manchester United) minutes at Manchester United – on the left scored a stunning goal from near the halfway his terrific energy and skills, he also had a fantastic wing! My heart breaks, I have real tears in my line against France, Kakitani was seen as attitude and that is why he has been so successful. eyes. Central midfield is Shinji’s best role. [ed: his club and country’s golden boy, a player With Yoichiro it has taken a little longer, but he is for those with thick skin, check @evilkagawa with the skill, imagination and now on the right path. If he continues on Twitter] He’s an offensive midfielder with confidence to go right to the top. I am not scoring the goals and making the one of the best noses for goal I ever saw.” Within two years though, assists that he is, he can reach the He was given more opportunities in his things started to unravel. thinking about same level.” favoured position towards the end of the While fellow youngsters moving abroad right In order to do that, you feel season and you could see his influence on the at Cerezo, Shinji now. My focus is on that the 23-year-old needs to team grow. United looked much more fluid Kagawa and Takashi Cerezo, I am working move to Europe and prove when he started behind Robin Van Persie and Inui, flourished, himself against the very he is one of the main reasons why many fans Kakitani’s form dipped hard every day to best. He doesn’t appear to be are indifferent about whether Wayne Rooney dramatically. With his help make this club in a huge hurry to leave his leaves or not. Sir Alex Ferguson felt he needed attitude constantly being as successful as homeland though. Earlier this a little more time to get used to the rigours of called in to question, he possible year he was quoted as saying the game in England and that we would see fell further down the pecking that Barcelona were the only the best of him in the 2013/14 season. order and after a fall-out with club in the world who could tempt It’s David Moyes he has to impress Coach he was sent out on him away from his current club, however, now. The Scottish manager would probably loan to J2 side, . it would appear that these words were taken have preferred to have given the Japanese “Honestly speaking, I don’t think I was slightly out of context. playmaker a longer rest after what has been a ready to be a footballer,” he tells Weekender. “That’s not what I meant,” he says. “What I tough post-season schedule that has included “The way I was acting it was completely was trying to say was that I am not thinking about a number of World Cup qualifying and unprofessional. Luckily I got a lot of support moving abroad right now. My focus is on Cerezo, I Confederation Cup games. In truth though, from a variety of people who helped me am working hard every day to help make this club he couldn’t realistically leave him out of this through it and now I am in a much better as successful as possible.” tour, the fans are desperate to see their hero. place. That doesn’t mean I am completely So it appears likely that Kakitani will still be satisfied with how things are going, there are around for the Man Utd game and possibly the Kagawa and his Man Utd teammates are areas that I still need to work, particularly my remainder of the current campaign. Beyond that, currently working closely with Kagome to body strength.” in spite of what he says, it seems certain that he promote the ReGeneration Challenge Project While he can still frustrate his boss at will move on. A player of his skill deserves to be 2013-2015, which supports the reconstruction times, attempting something extravagant playing on a bigger stage. No doubt speculation of the Tohoku region. To learn more go to when he should go simple, Kakitani is clearly will intensify even further if he can put in a match http://kagome-cp.jp/manutd/ maturing both as a player and a person. winning performance against United on July 26.

www.tokyoweekender.com JULY 2013 16 | & DRINK | WINE

Sugiyama-san spent three days with the winemaking team tasting multiple base varietal wines matched with several ingredients in order to arrive at a final blend that best matched the very diverse cuisine. “ was difficult, too,” Gourgues says, “but they succeeded in creating something special in Jacob’s Creek Wah, as evidenced in the surprisingly high demand for it since its Japan launch and the interest now being shown from other markets.” “We’ve confirmed a launch in Scandinavia later this year,” Gourgues adds, “and even France, where sushi culture continues to grow, is considering the wine.” The grape varieties used are what Gourgues calls a unique combination of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio with the blend being “light and acidic, full bodied but not so strong.” Jacob’s Creek Wah, launched last March, is currently only available in Japan but consumers in select markets may see a version on their shelves in the coming months. Gourgues elaborates that Wah is illustrative not only of Pernod Ricard Japan’s strategy to innovate locally but also demonstrative of the group’s decentralized business model. Another example of this model is Pernod Ricard’s Café de Paris, a flavoured sparkling wine brand, which has seen several flavors locally developed in Japan “positioned for ‘joshikai’ drinking occasions and is now our top-selling brand”. “The market in wines and spirits for global brands continues to grow globally, however, there is huge consumption of local brands wherever you go in the world – and this is particularly true for Japan”. In a market like Japan, where international brands represent only 2.5% of total alcohol consumption, Gourgues believes there Jean-Etienne Gourgues, President and CEO of Pernod Ricard Japan is still potential for growth with innovation and “premiumization” being the group’s two key drivers to accelerate value creation and recruit consumers away from local brands. THE SUSHI In the meantime, whether or not Jacob’s Creek Wah will persuade connoisseurs to give up their nihonshu SOMMELIERS remains to be seen, but it might worth giving it a try this summer. The French group seeking the perfect partnership between Australian wine and What is Pernod Ricard? ake and sushi seem a suitable and inseparable pairing Created in 1975 by the merger for most. However, with the number of high-end sushi of Ricard and Pernod, two anise restaurants growing around the world, and non- Japanese liquor companies in France, chefs putting their own spin on the traditional cuisine Pernod Ricard is now the global S(as recently seen in the World Sushi Cup Japan, where many co-leader of the wine and international chefs participated) could things be about to change? spirits industry. It has grown We asked Jean-Etienne Gourgues, President and CEO of Pernod exponentially in the Asia Pacific Ricard Japan, the company that counts Jacob’s Creek among its region in recent years and portfolio of well-known wine and spirit brands, to talk about international acquisitions of such a wine that might cause even the most ardent sake drinker to brands as Havana Club, Scotch reconsider. whiskies such as Chivas Regal and “The idea was to produce a wine that would perfectly match a The Glenlivet, as well as Absolut full sushi dinner. We quickly realized though that to achieve this, Vodka have solidified that growth. you’d need four or five different wines; for example, if you’re eating eel and tuna together, you might need more than one wine.” Pernod Ricard approached Mamoru Sugiyama, the fourth generation owner-chef of Ginza Sushi Ko Honten and invited him to to meet Jacob’s Creek’s chief white winemaker to together create a single wine that could be paired easily with sushi and Japanese cuisine in general.

JULY 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com the Hotel Metropolitan Sendai

The Star of Sendai

elebrating its 25th Anniversary this July, the option, Tohri, is a traditional Chinese restaurant where guests Hotel Metropolitan Sendai is a classic yet sleek can enjoy a number of exotic dishes. hotel with a reputation for impeccable service in Room prices start at JPY12,705 for the single stand- elegant surroundings. ard room but the hotel also offers luxury options such as the ThereC are 295 air-conditioned rooms in the hotel, many boast- JPY150,150 Royal Suite, a room fit for kings. There are a num- ing terrific views of the city. All rooms have digital-equipped ber of other options including both standard and deluxe rooms, LCD TVs, high speed Internet access, a complimentary news- smaller suites and a Japanese room with tatami flooring. paper, safes and a whole host of amenities designed to make your stay as comfortable as possible. For more information about the Hotel Metropolitan Sen- Three main restaurants offer an assortment of dishes. dai, please visit our website: Serenity is a luxurious restaurant/cafe overlooking the city; www.s-metro.stbl.co.jp/english/index.html Hayase is an atmospheric Japanese dining spot where tem- Address: 980-8477 Miyagi, Sendai, Aoba-ku Chuo 1-1-1 pura and is cooked right in front of you and the third For room reservations, phone: +81-22-267-2246 18 | FEATURE | INTERVIEW

adds to the landscape. There are places to do watersports, for example, and there are Yuji Kuroiwa places to camp by the river or lake. We are lucky in that respect, compared to some other parts of Kanto.” Back to the idea of being able to THE ANCHOR MAN extrapolate aspects of Kanagawa to illustrate a wider Japan, no better is this shown than by Out of the newsroom and in to the hotseat as Governor of Kanagawa in the area’s food and drink, Kuroiwa feels. “The tuna and other seafood along the

overnor Yuji Kuroiwa says He’s also looking to improve lifestyles and coast is excellent, but we also have other Kanagawa is like a microcosm health throughout the population, lessening things. and from around the of Japan. Here you can find future problems before they occur. Oyama area is particularly good – the fresh mountains, coastline, major Traditionally three areas of Kanagawa water helps that and also means great sake metropolises like Yokohama have been the most well known – and indeed and local craft beers. The Atsugi area has Gand Kawasaki, historical ports, samurai most heavily promoted by tourism agencies well-known pork – the farms there are really culture in Kamakura, rice fields and farms and local government. They are the three strong on welfare, which makes the meat with some of the best produce in the country, that we’d guess would be first to the tongue taste better – and we have Hayama beef and hot springs in Hakone that pull millions should we ask: Kamakura, Hakone and Odawara that are known around of visitors each year and rivers Yokohama. the country.” Miura peninsula, which can and lakes with camp grounds Our “It is not only those feel fairly temperate, harvests watermelons and strawberries. that help people enjoy the strength is the places, though,” he says, “we great outdoors. have a lot of potential.” Kuroiwa is proud to be the governor of But how did the man diversity of our culture. Other areas that are Kanagawa, it is clear. This means his role as not only a leader but as an ambassador whose media career Anybody from any part attractive enough to spanned more than deserve their own drive and ‘salesman’ for a prefecture that is home 20 years and who is a of the planet can fit into towards getting more ex- to people from 160 nationalities becomes household name in Japan and be welcome in posure are plenty, and are much easier. end up in charge of not only diverse enough to allow us “Our strength is that diversity of running the prefecture he Kanagawa to see that really people may culture,” Kuroiwa says. “Anybody from any now calls home from his office not need much persuasion. part of the planet can fit into and be welcome in Yokohama, but with spreading the “Jogashima, for example, in Kanagawa.” word? at the bottom of the Miura peninsula, past When he was a child growing up in Kamakura and Hayama, right at the tip just off Kobe he wanted to be a politician, with Misaki, is great. It’s a rich place with gorgeous dreams of changing the world, “changing the nature, and really great views, there is fresh troublesome things,” Kuroiwa, who is 58, tells seafood and vegetables, and the area’s tuna, us. When he matured, though, he realized that which is excellent, is particularly well-known with the level of energy needed to maintain – we’re really proud that the Michelin Green power balances, campaign for office and cope Guide has awarded the area two stars.” with the infighting that can go with the job, Another area Kuroiwa talks about is Oiso, a his scope might be limited. That’s one major stretch of coastline with second homes to many reason he turned to journalism, and it’s why well-known figures and which the government he ended up as a news anchor, hosting political is hoping to give new impetus for growth. and life science related discussion and panel Then there is Oyama, a mountain with shrines shows throughout the 80s, 90s and 2000s. and temples that was a popular pilgrimage But then in 2011 Shigefumi Matsuzawa, the route during the Edo period. It’s within the outgoing Governor of Kanagawa who would Tanzawa-Ōyama Quasi-National Park and leave to challenge in the Tokyo elections, asked has great day hikes. him to step into his role. “Tanzawa itself is serious wild “I was considering the offer for some mountain country,” Kuroiwa says. time, maybe a week, but then the earthquake “There are even bears there.” As well happened and I had to make up my mind. I saw it as nature – and the ‘great outdoors’ as a kind of message that I had to make the move – a theme that runs through a lot into politics. I knew I could make a difference.” of the literature you’ll find about There are of course challenges – Kanagawa Kanagawa is water. is more than following the national trend with “Because we have its ageing population, and industrial centres are a lot of water sources, of course led by a national economic situation. even in summer There are solutions to these problems, though: we don’t have Kuroiwa is for example working hard on shortages. But it special projects such as creating a hub of also means great research into life sciences and in an area near news for the leisure Haneda that is to be designated a special zone. industry and it really

JULY 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com KANAGAWA | FEATURE | 19

ENJOY THE VIEW For lunch, Misaki has no shortage of options – provided that you like seafood. In town, Sanwa and Showamaru have a good reputation for quality. JOGASHIMA & MISAKI Alternatively, take the bus across the to 1 Jogashima for lunch at Shibuki-tei, which combines two of the area’s specialties, tuna and squid. The open, no-frills interior only adds to the restaurant’s port- town atmosphere. For a post-lunch break, swing in a hammock at the Misaki Siesta Savori Club or grab a coffee at Misakipresso. For all Misaki’s charm, the real draw to the area is Jagoshima. While Masaki’s streets and shops give the feeling of being in another time, Jagoshima’s ocean panoramas and strange, rocky beach are like 2 another world. Even in the small area of shops near 3 the island’s western edge, things are quiet. According to a local shopkeeper I meet, tourists come in July and August, but he stresses that it can be a lonely place for locals come winter. Even on a Friday afternoon in early June tourists are scarce – a few couples, a TV crew on a location scout, a pair of hikers. Down a narrow street lined with tiny shops selling local akamoku seaweed, souvenirs and 1 Jogashima Lighthouse 2 Fresh Misaki tuna 3 Just- trinkets, and up a flight of stairs is the Jogashima caught tuna on its way to Urai fish market. Lighthouse. Built in 1870 and designed by French engineer Leonce Verny, at 80 meters above sea level Getting there: itting at the southern tip of Kanagawa’s the lighthouse’s observation deck offers stunning Take the Line from Shinagawa Miura Peninsula, the town of Misaki and views of the sea to the west. From the lighthouse, two to Misakiguchi Station and get on a nearby Jogashima Island offer up stunning paths snake around the southern shore of the island. bus. For Misaki, take a bus to Miaski-ko views, some of Japan’s freshest tuna – locals The coastline here is made of rocky crags and and for Jogashima, take the Jogashima Sproudly call the town the ‘city of tuna’ – and just plateaus, caves and fingers of rock jutting out into the bus to the final stop. enough adventure to keep things interesting. The water. In spite of its jagged ups and downs, the coast area, about an hour and a half south of Shinagawa, has a welcoming feel to it. A few fishermen cast their To get good value out of your day makes for an excellent day trip out of Tokyo. Visit lines from distant outcrops while an old man gathers get Keikyu’s special “Misaki Maguro the fish market and shops of Misaki in the morning, akamoku at low tide. While it may be lonely in winter, Ticket.” For ¥2,980 this covers round- and explore Jagoshima’s otherworldly coastline in in summer it is relaxing, peaceful and more than a little trip train fare from Shinagawa, bus the afternoon. mysterious. This unique southern stretch of Jagoshima’s travel in the area, includes a tuna set Misaki is a tuna-lover’s dream. While the ships coastline is the best reason to visit the island. lunch at one of many participating coming into town have all kinds of seafood, Misaki Of the two winding trails, the Yama-michi Course restaurants, and a free pass to an is best known as a major tuna port. According to the is a smooth walk overlooking the coast, but navigating area entertainment (including the locals, the tuna here puts that of Tsukiji to shame the rocky shore reveals Jogashima’s hidden inlets Jogashima Keikyu Hotel outdoor bath). and while the claim may be a reflection of local pride and caves. The most impressive of the island’s rock as much as quality, Misaki’s seafood is incredibly formations, Umanose Domon, lies halfway between the fresh. A good first stop is the Urari seafood market lighthouse and Jogashima Park. (open 9-5) for a look at the local catch and a mid- This marks the end of the low coastal path, but a morning . After the market, it’s worth taking a set of stairs leads up to the Yama-michi and on to the stroll through the town’s two main shopping streets, park at the eastern end of the island. Here there more the Shitamachi Shotengai and Misaki Ginza. While observation spots – looking from the park’s eastern not necessarily scenic, both have a charming retro tip you can see out to southern Chiba on a clear day. atmosphere and some interesting shops, such as the There is also a grassy picnic area that makes for a nice Miura Glass Studio Kirari, where adults and children rest. It takes under an hour to walk the southern coast alike can try their hand at making their own glass from the lighthouse to the eastern tip of the park, but art and accessories. twice that to explore the coastline and appreciate the island’s views. But even after hiking around the island, Jagoshima has one last spectacular view in store. The sunsets from the western tip of the island are stunning, and there is no better place to witness one than soaking in the Jogashima Keikyu Hotel’s outdoor bath. An easy day trip from Tokyo, Misaki and Jogashima are a refreshing escape from the city. The mix of small- town sightseeing, exploring the coast, and excellent food make it a good trip for friends, couples, families, or even solo travelers.

By Robert Morel Experience a Different Kamakura By Matthew Hernon

apan’s de facto capital between c. 1185 and 1333, Kamakura is one of the country’s most important cultural cities. Less than an hour south of Tokyo, it is also one of the most popular destinations for tourists with crowds flocking to the area to enjoy some terrific hiking trails, strolls along the beach and a number of renowned sights such as the Great Buddha, Hachimangu Shrine and Hase-dera Temple. Whilst these places are certainly worth visiting, they can get extremely crowded, particularly on weekends. During our trip there we were looking to escape from the masses, trying to find more peaceful places to enjoy.

Samurai Spirit Still Alive Our first stop was Shisouan, a quaint two-storey house with materials and memorabilia about the Kamakura Period. Here guests can take a step back in time, in the shoes and clothes of some of the most prominent figures from that era, such as Minamoto no Yoshitsune, one of the most famous Samurai fighters in Japanese history; Yoshitsune’s alleged mistress Shizuka Gozen, a tragic heroine who was forced to abandon her lover; and Yoshitsune’s most loyal follower, warrior monk Benkei. The costumes of these legends are extravagant and therefore a little expensive to hire, though there are other options.

JULY 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com KANAGAWA | FEATURE | 21

I think as Kamakura has modernized it has lost some of its identity, I therefore hope this little establishment can try to help bring that back.

We tried the somewhat understated by comparison red Hitatare, a formal court robe of Samurai or Kosode and a kind of predecessor to the kimono that came with a hand-fan and two swords, one long and one short. Feeling a little more elegant and powerful than usual, we had a few pictures taken before taking a stroll around the

Photo by; Kamakura City Tourism Association garden. For those with a little more time, there is also the chance to practice some archery be on the bland side. As it turned out it was full bloom, but it was just as satisfying to with the shop owners and yabusame anything but. see the hydrangeas brighten the bleakness (traditional horse-back archery) archers, From the sesame tofu to the shibazuke of rainy season here in Japan. Daisuke Arimoto and Akemi Matayoshi. In sushi and sweet potato, it was a marvelous With hardly any people around the only the future Arimoto would like to create a collection that was pleasing to both the eye noise was the sound birds chirping away kind of Samurai Village with lots of different and palate. The art of preparing a shojin in the background. You can also enjoy a activities, for now though his goal is to meal is considered an aspect of zen training traditional bowl of and a Japanese remind people about the rich cultural history and as the food was presented to us we saw sweet in a tea room called Kisen-an, while of Kamakura. the attention to detail that went into it. It is overlooking an exquisitely kept sand and “I want people to be able experience this not simply about cooking, but is a practice stone garden. It was a wonderfully relaxing city how it used to be,” he tells us. “I think of spirituality. They put their heart and way to finish the afternoon. as Kamakura has modernized it has lost soul into the process, providing meals that Other sites within the grounds include some of its identity, I therefore hope this incorporate the five taste sensations (salty, the main hall, which has a number of little establishment can try to help bring sour, sweet, bitter and unami), and five documents, paintings and statues as well as that back.” (Shisouan address: 6-1-23, Fueda, colours (red, white, black, green and yellow). the tomb of Ashikaga Takauji, the founder Kamakura; 15 min walk from Hase station; With no food wasted and a deep respect and first shogun of the Ashikaga shogunate. call 0467-39-6412; ) for every ingredient, it takes a long time to While in the area, it is also worth taking prepare and should be eaten at a slow pace, the five-minute walk to Hokokuji temple, A Monk’s Lunch preferably in a tranquil environment like known for its bamboo grove. After dressing like a Samurai it was time to at Hachinoki. eat like a monk at Hachinoke. Getting Around A short walk from Kita- Jomyoji Temple One of the most pleasant ways of seeing Kamakura station, this Continuing the spiritual theme, Kamakura and the surrounding area is enchanting place serves fresh, it was time to visit a temple. on the Enoshima Electric Railway, or the colourful vegetable-based Kamakura is best known for its Enoden as it is affectionately known. The dishes in a style known as shrines and temples and with more charming train that first ran in 1900 stops shojin ryori (Devotion Cuisine). than 80 in what is a relatively small near a number of famous sights, including Derived from the Buddhist city, there are certainly plenty to the Great Buddha, Hase Kannon Temple precept that it is wrong to choose from. Seeking a calm, sober and Tsurgaoka Hachimangu Shrine. kill any animals, shojin ryori environment away from the hub Linking Fujisawa, the local Shonan area uses only seasonal fruits and of the city, we discovered the and Kamakura, there are some spectacular vegetables with no meat – these 800-year-old Jomyoji Temple, mountain and ocean views along the way. days a rarity in Japan as many a designated historical site. A Noriorikun pass (¥580 for adults, vegetarians readers will we’re Walking up the steps past ¥290 for children) allows you to get on sure attest. Being a meat-lover Somon Gate, we were greeted by and off at any station between Fujisawa myself, I initially wasn’t over- lines of multi-coloured trees and and Kamakura, as well as giving you enthused about visiting such an seasonal flowers. The place is said to privileges at places like the Enoshima establishment; frankly speaking be especially alluring in the spring, Observation Lighthouse and the New it sounded like it was going to when the cherry blossoms are in Enoshima Aquarium.

www.tokyoweekender.com JULY 2013 22 | FEATURE | KANAGAWA DIVERSE DAY TRIPS IN KANAGAWA

Get Your Hiking Boots On

he 1,252m high Mt. Oyama, within the Tanzawa-Oyama Quazi-National Park, offers a day hike not far from the city that is as serious as you want it to be. You might be a seasoned climber, or someone who enjoys hiking through forested trails past monuments and relics that show a sideT to Japan all too lacking in the big city, or you may just want to head out to deepest Kanagawa, climb aboard a ropeway and seek a picnic spot with a view. Mt. Oyama itself is familiar to many people living in Kanagawa, you’ll get a glimpse of the peak long before you arrive in Isehara to begin your day out. Take a bus from that station headed for Oyama Cable Car Station and you’re on your way. From here, two main trails head up the mountain, past Oyama Temple, various ‘power spots’ in cool woodland and towards the 2,000-year-old Afuri Shrine – though you can of course pay ¥450 and have your work done for you by that cable car. From Afuri shrine, those determined to see things through face around two to three hours of fairly steep and quite tough climbing to reach the peak (and by now are either glad they did or wish they had ridden the cable car), but there are other options, too. You could head down to the picnic spots nearby, seek out Niju waterfall, or just relax in the mountains before heading down into town to enjoying some locally famous tofu dishes. (Head to Oyama at the weekend between July 27 and August 18 for special summer night viewing from Afuri shrine – extended cable car hours apply)

Night Cruising IN YOKOHAMA hen you read of ‘industrial tourism’, what image is conjured? In Yokohama, the sector is booming, we hear, with locals and visitors alike taking factory and plant tours that allow them to learn a little more about whereW the goods and services produced in the city come from. From a Nissan Motor plant where visitors can ‘experience tightening an assembly bolt’, to a silk museum or a slightly tastier sounding pair of noodle museums where we can both learn about mass production and slurp up, the city seems to have it all… Over the last couple of years one particular niche has really taken off, with a location as industrial as it gets in the spotlight. ‘Factory scenery’ night cruises around the Keihin Industrial Zone are run by a number of companies who are taking advantage of a growing crowd that wants to witness what are known as castles of light – the factories and the clusters of pipes and chimneys that go with them – lining the waterfront between Tokyo and Yokohama. They do take on a rather ‘futuristic’ look and it isn’t only an otaku crowd infatuated with the factories. We spoke with one tour operator who says his nightly boat is filled with couples who come to see the tangled steel masses and bottom-lit puffs of steam and smoke that glow Hot Spas and Sulphurous above them. Whether or not it’s your idea of a romantic night out we’re not sure, but there are plenty of us whose enthusiasm for Japan stems ou can’t talk about Kanagawa without mentioning Hakone, from the unique, and what better alternative to a day hiking around its museums, hot springs and spectacular views of Mt. Fuji. temples and shrines? (see www.keihinferry.co.jp) Being so close to Tokyo it is often seen as an ideal getaway from the capital for a day or two, however if you have the time we Yrecommend spending a few days there this summer to fully appreciate the sights and sounds of one of Japan’s most alluring destinations. You will already, we’re sure, have seen the pirate ships that traverse and connect to the terminal for the , which offers magnificent panoramic views of the entire Hakone region, including the great boiling valley known as Owakudani, part of a “Geopark” well worth exploring. The ropeway stops at the crater, giving you the chance to walk around this fascinating volcanic zone, which is full of steam vents and bubbling pools. The strong stench of sulphur doesn’t seem to put tourists off, they flock to the area in great numbers desperate to get hold of those famous black eggs that supposedly add seven years to your life.

JULY 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com Travel Promotion

DISCOVER HAKONE The Odakyu group has a huge presence in Hakone with a number of services including a train line, hotels, restaurants, a cable-car, a ropeway, buses and even pirate ships. Constantly looking to evolve, they have expanded their influence in the region even further this year with a series of projects such as the Hakone Free Pass aimed at making your trip more pleasurable than ever.

Odakyu Hakone Lake Hotel Royal II

Hakone Kankosen Inc. has refurbished Cruising over lake Ashi on a pirate ship is an its lake hotel with a unique cocoon style experience not to be missed. Modern, elegant steam sauna, a micro bubble bath and and extremely colorful, these ships are not only an open-air onsen, while the layout of fun for people of all ages, they also provide some the lobby, banquet hall and the area terrific views. The latest edition to the family of around the restaurants have all been pirate ships on the lake is the Royal II, which refreshed. made its debut earlier this year. The design is based on the Royal Louis, a first class warship constructed in the 18th Century that served Hakone Yuryo as the flagship for the French fleet. Statues of sailors and a traditional helm on the ship aim to Modeled on old Japanese houses, this enchanting recreate the atmosphere of the time. inn, which opened in March, features huge segregated open-air public hot spring baths and a sauna in an idyllic woodland location. For those looking for something a little more intimate or family-orientated, there are also 19 private onsen baths that can be reserved in advance. With some fantastic views of the forest, it is a wonderful place to unwind that can also be enjoyed by non-staying guests. Other facilities at Yuryo include a grill restaurant and a souvenir shop. A free shuttle bus operates every 10-15 minutes to and from Hakone Yumoto Station.

Hakone Ropeway “Owakudani New Station” Re-opening

Hakone Ropeway Inc. decided it was time to redevelop Owakudani Station, in use since 1959. Famed for its views of Hakone and the boiling valley, the station re-opened in April, fully equipped with a new restaurant that serves a special curry dish topped with an onsen tamago (hot spring ). There is also a new shop at the station selling a wide range of souvenirs, including traditional crafts from Hakone.

Address: 4 Tonosawa Hakonemachi Kanagawa 250-0315 Access: 3 mins free shuttle bus from Hakoneyumoto Tel: 0460-85-8411 | Web: www.hakoneyuryo.jp Station. 5 mins walk from Tonosawa station

Open Hours: 10:00 - 21:00 (Mon-Fri) 10 mins car from Hakoneguchi inter-change 10:00 - 22:00 (Sat, Sun, National Holiday) 45 mins car from Gotenba inter-change

www.tokyoweekender.com JULY 2013 SPEND A DAY WITH THE LITTLE PRINCE “The most beautiful things in the world cannot be seen or touched, they are felt with the heart.”

hat famous quote is only A European style garden, designed one of numerous that has by Keiko Yoshiya, who has spent become entrenched in much time in Europe, particularly the popular culture since The UK, is well-liked for its hydrangea and LittleT Prince, by Antoine de Saint- there is also a rose garden that draws Exupéry, was first published in 1943. botanical enthusiasts. The Little Prince (of course originally The indoor exhibition hall offers Le Petit Prince) is now the most read an exhaustive recollection of the and most translated French novella author’s life, including the period that in the world, with millions of copies will perhaps interest readers most; flying off the shelves and through the Saint-Exupéry wrote and illustrated post each year even decades after its the manuscript (a replica document release. As if the multitude of sold is displayed), as well as many other copies and related paraphernalia works, while exiled in the US after his wasn’t enough, a handful of stint as a reserve military pilot at the exhibitions have been created around start of the Second World War and the world to honour the celebrated shortly before he died after returning story of a stranded aviator’s discovery to the front line to fly recon missions. – and adventures – in the desert. The museum’s own restaurant, Japan’s Museum of The Little Le Petit Prince, serves French cuisine Prince is in Hakone – perhaps the at reasonable prices, complete with The Museum of The Little Prince in Hakone most ideal place in the country organic vegetables and fresh fish For more info: www.tbs.co.jp/l-prince to host the exhibition; its outdoor from the local area. Address: 909 Sengokuhara, Hakone-machi, Ashigarashimo-gun, Kanagawa-ken space provides the perfect setting. A stop by the souvenir shop is How to get there: Approximately 30 minutes by Hakone Tozan Bus from the Dedicated to this literary oeuvre d’art, unavoidable for fans who wish to Hakone Yumoto station on the Odakyu line. Approximately 20 minutes from complete with pictures and sketches stock up on merchandise or gifts, the Tomei Expressway Gotenba Interchange depicting the author’s life path, the including the book if you either still Opening Times: 9:00am to 6:00pm (last entry 5:00pm) place is a joy to visit. Although the haven’t read it, or want to enjoy it all indoor part of the museum is where over again. most artifacts relating to Saint- Even though Saint-Exupéry Exupéry are displayed, an outdoor disappeared shortly after writing his area boasts eye-catching sculptures magnum opus, his legacy remains, including the B-612 Asteroid known and so do his quotes, many of which to all readers, and a sculpture of the have been turned into simple yet Little Prince himself. meaningful life lessons. The open-air space is a reproduction of a French street, To celebrate the 70th anniversary of the complete with cobblestones, quaint book, the museum is hosting a stamp shops and cafes, as well as Provencal rally for the duration of 2013 (until castle that gives life to Saint- March next year) whereby success Exupéry’s past. means original postcards.

JULY 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com KANAGAWA | FEATURE | 25

A BREATH OF FRESH AIR AT THE HAKONE OPEN AIR MUSEUM

the artwork that sits so comfortably with nature. Over 100 pieces are scattered around the grounds, including work from masters such as Auguste Rodin, Emile- Antoine Bourdelle, Joan Miro and Henry Moore. A collection of more than 300 Picasso pieces is housed in a specially built his stunning sculpture park that Picasso Pavillion on site, indoor galleries Opening times: Open 365 days a year, 9am – sets world-class art alongside some host seasonal shows and there are paths 5pm (Last entrance 4.30pm) winding through the exhibits that can keep of the most spectacular scenery Access: From either JR or you occupied for hours. Anyone of any age in Japan truly fits into the must- Odakyu Hakone Yumoto Station take the visitT category however long you are in the should enjoy an afternoon, or even a full to Chokoku-no-Mori day, at the museum – lunch in one of the country. While many go to Hakone for the Station and it’s a 2 mins walk. hot springs and relaxation, there are also on-site restaurants or cafe included – and Admission: Adults: ¥1,600 University/HS museums and attractions such as this that this being Hakone, the experience can Students: ¥1,100 Elementary/JHS Students: ¥800 will make you want to return again and be completed with a soothing soak in an again to soak up the atmosphere and enjoy outdoor hot spring foot bath. More info: www.hakone-oam.or.jp/english

A FEAST FOR THE EYES At THE invites adults and children alike to enjoy crafting their own work of art – you can try your hand at making your own glass HAKONE GLASS-No-Mori MUSEUM accessory or sandblast a take-home trinket, though while you might have The museum itself is the centerpiece some fun you’ll have some work to do to of a lush area set around a small pond match up to the regular exhibits. which visitors can take their time strolling around and discovering terraces, gardens The Beautiful World of Mosaic and glass sculptures, and with so much to (until November 24, 2013) see and do you should leave a few hours of The current exhibition at the museum your Hakone schedule spare to enjoy it all. celebrates all kinds of mosaic from Elaborate classical pieces from Venice both Venetian glass and Hakone Yosegi sit in a colourful, skillfully made and Zaiku marquentry, which has been curated collection that is admired produced in the area itself since the world over, but modern the 18th century. More than 120 day artists are also exhibited different works of mosaic are alongside seasonal specials and displayed, in all manner of styles other regular features at the and materials. museum. Step back outside, and you’ll find plenty more to Opening times: Open 365 days a enjoy. Imagine an 9-metre high year, 9am – 5.30pm (Last entrance fountain made of 160,000 pieces 5pm) of cut crystal, set so that sunlight Access: From Hakone Yumoto can crash and bend through Station take the Hakone Tozan bus it giving a unique appearance bound for Togendai and get off at at different times of day – that Hyoseki/Hakone Glass no Mori Mae he spacious grounds of the Hakone is exactly what you’ll find in the Admission: Adults: 1,300yen Glass no Mori – the glass forest that ‘Flash Corridor’, part of the forest University/HS Students: 1,100yen incorporates the Hakone Venetian gardens. Elementary/JHS Students: 800yen Glass Museum – are a joy to visit If you are inspired by the andT one of the cultural highlights of the world-class pieces on show, More info: www.ciao3.com volcanic mountainside area. a studio within the grounds Hakone Ginyu Perfection in the mountains

f you are looking for a place to stay in Luxurious Rooms with Hakone that is peaceful, luxurious and Sensational Views modern, yet at the same time traditional, There are 20 guest rooms at Ginyu in four there is simply only one option; Hotel different styles, known as Kaze, Hoshi, Sora GinyuI is a heavenly ryokan resort with stunning and Tsuki (wind, star, sky and moon). Each views of the nearby mountains and gorge, type has its own distinct charm. The Tsuki delectable food that can be enjoyed in your room on the first floor, for example, faces out room and immaculate service from attentive on to a Japanese garden, while from the Kaze staff who will answer to your every whim. rooms on the fourth floor you can take in the For those who are planning on doing lots breathtaking mountainous view. From the of sightseeing in the area, be warned: this is traditional Japanese style of the Sora rooms a place that is difficult to leave. With soothing on the second floor to the more exotic Balinese spas, relaxing hot spring baths, sumptuous style Hoshi rooms on the third, the rooms also meals and luscious green surroundings, you can vary in terms of color, size and décor. just put on the yukata and spend a delightfully Whichever type you choose you can be lazy weekend that will make you feel like you guaranteed an incredibly comfortable stay. are a million miles away from civilization. Aesthetically pleasing with a large lounge/

JULY 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com KANAGAWA | PROMOTION | 27

1 The emphasis at Ginyu is on luxurious relaxation, with staff going to great lengths to ensure your stay is as pleasurable as 2 possible. 3 dining area, every room comes equipped with all the modern amenities you would expect from a world-class hotel including a widescreen TV, DVD player, music system and mini bar. Nice views and comfort are all well and good, but here you are looking for that something extra, something that makes 1 Personal outdoor hot spring bath in every room 2 the hotel stand out from the rest, and you Enjoy a drink and the amazing view from the bar 3 Exotic will most certainly find it. At Ginyu it is Balinese style Hoshi rooms the personal outdoor hot spring bath that guests, whichever room they are staying For breakfast there is a choice of being able to choose from facials, soothing in, can enjoy on the terrace. Lying back in either Western style, including yoghurts, massages and reflexology. Prices vary the steaming hot water (cool water can be fruits, French bread, croissants and depending on the treatment you choose, added with the press of a button if it gets too cereal, or Japanese style, where you can though we recommend the 120-minute hot), while taking in the natural ambiance – enjoy soup, rice and fresh fish. Both, body massage, two hours of pure bliss in and perhaps enjoying the mini-bar or room whilst not quite in the same league as the hands of a soothing therapist using service drinks – is truly an experience that the banquet for dinner, are good original techniques. will never be forgotten. hearty options, served with a smile. After all that unwinding you might be a little thirsty, so make sure you leave Dining in Style Pure Relaxation some time for a couple of cocktails at one In between soaks guests can enjoy an More than anything, the emphasis at of the two bars in the resort. Alternatively amazing kaiseki meal from the comfort of Ginyu is on luxurious relaxation, with you may prefer to take a stroll around their own room. Using seasonal ingredients staff going to great lengths to ensure your the area or just sit back and relax in the the chef prepares a series of the freshest stay is as pleasurable as possible. It is the exquisite lounge with its two large fish fish, meat and vegetable dishes that look little details, like receiving a refreshing tanks and delightful plants. Beautifully almost too good to eat. Meticulously drink upon arrival to being waved off at decorated, great staff and some amazing prepared and delightfully arranged, each the end, that gives this magnificent resort facilities, Hotel Ginyu is a place you will plate is like a piece of art. It is not all about spa the edge over its rivals. want to come back to again and again, if appearance though, every dish tastes as It is a hotel that allows you the only it was a little bit cheaper! good as it looks and fortunately, they just opportunity to be pampered like never keep on coming. It is a true feast that should before, so make sure you make the most Getting There be enjoyed at a slow pace. of it. As well as the tubs in the room, there From Hakone Yumoto station it is are three public a 15-minute taxi ride to the hotel. baths, two on the top Alternatively you can use the Hakone floor, overlooking Tozan Rail Line. Once you get off at the valley and one on Miyanoshita station, it is a very short the first, surrounded walk down the hill. Access to many of by wildlife. If that the town’s top tourist sights is also easy isn’t enough for (the Open Air Museum, for example, is you there is also just two stops away), the difficult part is an infinity pool, a getting out of your yukata and actually Jacuzzi and some leaving this wonderful resort. saunas. Still need For more information about Hakone more? Ginyu just Ginyu please visit the website: keeps on giving, in www.hakoneginyu.co.jp addition to all of that Address: 100- 1 Miyanoshita, Hakone- there are a number machi, Ashigarashimo-gun, Kanagawa therapeutic spa Prefecture 250-0404 facilities with guests Tel: 0460-82-3355

www.tokyoweekender.com JULY 2013 28 | HEALTH & BEAUTY | SKINCARE Skin Care Secrets OF THE PROFESSIONALS A Tokyo summer can be tough to survive for all manner of sweaty reasons – but according to one local expert, your skin needn’t suffer. Skincare rituals vary, of course, but in the end they remain an essential part of the routine for most women around the world – many of us will structure more than just the start of our day around all the pampering and care we know we deserve. Tokyo Weekender had a chat with the experts at Kanebo, a well-known Japanese skincare and beauty brand, and learned of some particularly Japanese habits as well as how things compare across cultures.

What are the main specifics to the usual skin care routine in Japan? The key elements of Japanese skincare are thorough facial cleansing and moisturizing, which are also referred to as “double cleansing” and “double moisturizing” as each consists of two steps. “Double cleansing” uses two types of cleansers to address different impurities on the skin. First, a cleanser or makeup remover lifts off oil-based

Rumiko Ataku, Senior substances (makeup and sebum) from the skin Esthetician & Skincare surface. Secondly, a facial soap or foam wash is used Researcher at Kanebo to purge the skin of water-based impurities (old skin Cosmetics Inc.’s Beauty cells, dust, bacteria, perspiration). Research Institute “Double moisturizing” provides moisture in also gave us a guide to two stages, first as lotion, then as emulsion, which is keeping skin looking more effective than single moisturizing. Please keep healthy, and some neat in mind that most facial lotions in Japan are first tips on how to stay step moisturizers, and so quite different from the cool and fresh during Western-style cleansers, tonics, or astringents used the scorching, humid to tone the skin after cleansing. Due to the hot and summer months. humid climate, Japanese women tend to prefer light- textured beauty essences over rich creams for anti- aging and special care.

What are the major cultural differences in skincare between Japan and other countries? While the basic skin functions and structure are the same, there are some differences in Asian and Caucasian skin. Asians have a slightly thicker dermis than Caucasians. This seems to be one reason why Asian skin is said to be less prone to wrinkles and sagging. On the other hand, Asian skin produces more melanin pigment when exposed to UV. This provides Asian people with a stronger protection against skin cancer, but also makes the skin more susceptible to pigment spots. This also explains the strong demand for so-called “whitening cosmetics”, skincare that helps to inhibit the formation of spots and freckles.

Any tips on how to keep our skin healthy and fresh in the summer heat? In the hot and humid summer months of Japan, skin perspiration and sebum secretion is higher than usual, often resulting in a sticky feeling and causing our makeup foundation to run and smear. Though the humidity may tempt us to skip our normal skincare routine, the summer season is the time when we should take particular care of our skin. The key elements of effective summer skincare are proper facial cleansing and the use of moisturizing lotion. Facial cleansing The clue to effective cleansing (with facial soap or foam) is to work up a rich, finely-textured and resilient lather in the palm of your hand and gently apply this to your face without rubbing or pressing as this will irritate your skin (and stimulate sebum secretion).

Moisturizing After cleansing, moisturize your skin with moisturizing lotion and emulsion. By carefully conditioning your skin with a moisturizer, you also improve the wear of your makeup! In the Japanese daily skincare routine, moisturizing lotions (keshôsui) are very important. These lotions are different from wipe-off toners, commonly used in the Western beauty routine as last stage of THE BODY SHOP cleansing. CRUELTY FREE INTERNATIONAL Before you go on with your makeup, don’t forget to apply a sunscreen to protect your face from UV damage. You may want to choose a sunscreen The ubiquitous English brand tells us more about its that also doubles as a makeup base (e.g. KANEBO ALLIE Long Keep Gel) cruelty-free products, skin brightening products with and extends the stay of your makeup. When choosing a sunscreen, pay shiso, and a collaboration with Leona Lewis careful attention to the SPF and PA values shown on the labels and choose a product according to your needs. osmetics and skincare all come in attractive packages, each By observing these above points, you can extend the wear of your promising more benefits than the next, but do you know where makeup while protecting your skin from UV. Choose your skincare items your products actually come from, and most importantly, whether according to your skin needs and lifestyle – and enjoy the summer! they are tested on animals? WeC recently had a chat with the people at The Body Shop, the company How can we maintain our makeup in the midst of credited with first kicking off a campaign against cruelty on animals. humidity, heat and sweat? The EU recently put a ban on the sale of all animal-tested cosmetics, though sadly the list of companies that still make use of animals in other If your makeup easily smudges, think about changing your foundation parts of the world is lengthy. “We were the first company to launch a cruelty and makeup base. Both items should be chosen according to the season free campaign back in 1993, and we haven’t done any animal testing (with) and skin type. For the spring/summer season, we recommend long-lasting cosmetics since our foundation in 1978,” says Takeshi Fukumoto, President types with a good UV protector. & CEO of The Body Shop in Japan. “For all of our products, from the brushes Even long-lasting makeup will need touch-ups during the day, as both to the White Musk fragrance, we are firm in our belief that no animal should UV protector and foundation come of more easily due to perspiration and be harmed in any way. In terms of becoming cruelty free, I think a number sebum. Thoroughly moisturizing your skin before you apply foundation of other companies are shifting in that direction, what is different about us is also helps your makeup stay in place. So don’t forget to moisturize your that we have it in our policy and are actively campaigning for it.” skin with lotion and emulsion after cleansing. Did you know that the aromatic musk fragrance originally came from How can we treat sunburnt skin? deer? We’re not sure who first figured out the ‘musk pod’ gland, when If your skin is red from the sun, the first thing should be to soothe the extracted (bad news for the animal, unfortunately…) and dried gives a black skin with special after-sun skincare. Medicated whitening lotions (such as grain that can be tinctured with alcohol before dilution into a scented liquid Kanebo Blanchir Superior White Deep Clear Conditioner) are especially people want to spray themselves with, but whoever recreated it without formulated to prevent UV-induced damage such as redness, roughness needing to kill the creature perhaps deserves even more plaudits. “The Body and dryness. Don’t be irritated by the term “whitening”. These products Shop was against this cruelty because we want to love and protect animals,” do not bleach your skin, but help to regulate excessive melanin production Fukumoto explains. “We have created a man-made musk fragrance and we in order to prevent pigment spots. were one of the first brands to sell it globally.” The Body Shop enlisted British singer/songwriter Leona Lewis to get Where can our English involved with the White Musk fragrance and limited edition make-ups that are selling out fast – though not simply through endorsing with her name. readers find skincare “She is used as a symbol of cruelty free beauty,” says Fukumoto, “And she also advice in Japan? took part in designing some of the visuals, including the floral deer on the Personal skin care consultations packaging. Leona says she is a White Musk user herself and she particularly and detailed skin tests (all free likes White Musk Libertine.” of charge) are available at all The Body Shop is becoming one of the most successful brands on this side Kanebo counters. For more of the world, catering to a younger clientele, and offering quality skin care information please visit www. at reasonable prices. Being from abroad doesn’t limit scope to experiment kanebo.com. All personal in the Japanese market, though. A few products, such as the fragrance “The inquiries can be directed to Body Shop Sakura”, are Japan-inspired but available internationally, and the Kanebo Consumer Center the skincare range “Moisture White” uses shiso, which has natural skin (please refer to the “contact” brightening properties. page on the website).

www.tokyoweekender.com JULY 2013 30 | FEATURE | MUSIC TAME IMPALA Aussie rockers head to Fuji

Their fuzzy-riffed, 60s-infused rock featured in a flagship Blackberry ad before the band became the first Aussie act to top the NME’s prestigious of the year list; Tame Impala created quite a buzz in 2012. Kyle Mullin spoke with the band’s mastermind, Kevin Parker, in the lead up to a much-hyped Fuji Rock set—touching on the familial strains that inspired his songwriting, the necessity of avocado jam, and everything in between.

ame Impala’s music has been described as were a weakness, and of course they’re not, but that’s how it euphorically psychedelic. But frontman, founder seemed. Now it feels pretty cool to bear my soul.” and sole songwriter Kevin Parker attains those Those years of emotional isolation are apparent in his highs with lucidity. In fact, one of his most inspiring work. Take, for instance, the chorus, “You will never come ascentsT involved a sobering climb, chasing a senior citizen up close to how I feel,” on the searing centerpiece tune Solitude is a mountain. Bliss, from Tame Impala’s 2010 debut, . Or song “My Mum’s always doing crazy shit, like riding bikes up titles like Why Won’t They Talk to Me? and Apocalypse Dreams, trails. One time we went up Bare Rock together, everyone else on the critically acclaimed 2012 follow up . in the group was half her age,” Parker says of the expedition “People appreciating my music helped me open up. he and his spry 60-something mother recently took near their Because when you think about something as your own hometown of , – a moment of true problem, but then reach people with the same problem, it bonding after years of familial strains. Parker adds that his makes you feel like you can connect with the outside world.” mother brings equal enthusiasm to the dullest of daily routines. While that may have been the end result, the actual “She gets excited about almost anything, while Dad was process of making those songs lacked such a spirit of outreach. always so serious. She’ll see a juggler on the street and think Today Parker (pictured second from left, below) has recruited that’s just the best thing ever; that’s my mom. Music ended up band mates to help him perform the Tame Impala songs that being that sort of thing for me, it just astonished me.” are so deeply informed by his father’s throwback record When it came to his songwriting, Parker inherited so much collection. But before that, Parker spent two years alone at more than simply his mother’s zeal. His father, an accountant home obsessively writing and recording each note on his own, who meticulously collected classic rock records by the likes in the same way that his father would pore over spreadsheets of Supertramp, and Shadows, bought young and tally up numbers as an accountant. In another interview, Kevin his first guitar so that the two of them could jam together. Parker described working on Lonerism as “crucifying.” His mother wasn’t a musician, but years after a divorce that “The only time it was crucifying was at the end,” Parker ruptured the Parker household, it was her who supported her now says, adding that several months’ hindsight had helped son’s creative outlet, in the hope that he’d find some closure. diminish the most grueling portions of the recording process. “We were all pretty closed off. I was brought up in a family “I was overloading my brain. It’s towards the end that you that never spoke about emotions,” Parker says of the childhood really have to make decisions. Or finish a song and realize he spent with a stern father and a free spirited, though stifled you’ve been working on it everyday for two years, that you mother. “It almost felt as if I was brought up to think emotions ran a marathon and didn’t even know it.”

JULY 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com A prime example would be the Lonerism deep cut Music to Walk Home By. It started with electronic drums before Parker decided to pound out the tune’s backbeat on a traditional kit instead. In the beginning the tune had no trace of Tame Impala’s kaleidoscopic signature riffs, featuring only a few synth motifs instead. Parker also ended up writing another verse for the song, before recording the final version that would go on to become a fan favorite. Parker adds that if he hadn’t holed up in his home studio alone and taken so much painstaking time to work on Lonerism’s songs, many of them would have turned out far different to – and fallen quite short of – the tunes that are now featured on the beloved record. “I just really, really care,” Parker says of his meticulous method, which he admits can seem quite obsessive at the worst of times. “I want the song to keep on stimulating listeners, so I keep looking for ways to get more effects. In that way, the song is never really finished. I always think it can be better. It can be painful, but someone has to tell me to stop working on it. Otherwise I’ll just keep working on it forever. I always just want the song to have an effect on people, so I keep working on it until it really moves me.” That same sort of separation anxiety occurs long after he releases an album, as he gets out of the house and on the road to perform it. After all, leaping from hotel room to hotel room, venue to venue, time zone to time zone, day in and day out can be quite jarring after spending every day at home nitpicking synth notes and guitar chord THEATRE progressions on your own. Matthew Bourne’s Dorian Gray People appreciating my music helped ne of the most hyped dance productions in recent times, me open up. Because when you think about Matthew Bourne’s Dorian Gray is set to make its Japan premiere something as your own problem, but then at Tokyo’s Bunkamura Orchard Hall this July. A modern-day take on Oscar Wilde’s novel, it explores the reach people with the same problem, it sinisterO side of society’s obsession with youth, fame and celebrity. The show makes you feel like you can connect with the has been a spectacular success in the UK, breaking audience records at the Edinburgh International Festival and consistently selling out at Sadler’s outside world. Wells Theatre in London. Choreographer Bourne seems to have something of a golden touch and is often seen as the man responsible for bringing “You’ll look outside the hotel window, and you’re seeing a different dance into mainstream popular culture. For actor Richard Winsor, who will city every time. It’s like a machine gun of images, and it can really drain play Gray in Tokyo, there is nobody quite like him. you,” Parker says of the rapid fire travelling that touring requires. “He brings a story that is realistic and deep to dance,” Winsor tells He adds that some locales, like the beach in Rio that served endless Weekender. “I don’t think there is anyone else doing that. It is a universal cocktails, were so hospitable that it was tempting to stay forever. But style that audiences, wherever we go, seem to warm to.” all those drinks never soothed his anxiety the next day. “There’s stuff Winsor has worked with Bourne on a number of high profile projects, going on all the time when you tour, so you always feel a bit hung but says the role of Gray is his darkest yet. over, and always a bit sick. And yet, I was always excited to go out and “He’s a really intriguing character who is corrupted by an obsession of experience the new crowds.” power that takes him on a journey of self-discovery and self-hatred with sex, Despite his love of touring, Parker says he more than understood drugs and murder along the way. I can see a lot of parallels between him when its tumultuous schedule became too grueling for bassist Nick and Patrick Bateman (from the movie American Psycho). The performance Allbrook, who left the band in May. by Christian Bale in that is horrifically brilliant and worked really well with “There’s no bad blood not at all, we were friends for years before what I wanted to do with Dorian.” we were bandmates,” Parker says of Allbrook’s departure. “He just Winsor has played the role on and off for around five years, but in needs some time to chill out. Because being in a touring band, after all, Japan he will be sharing the lead in alternating shows with Yusuke Onuki. can be a burden on you.” While Winsor admits he would prefer to play the role by himself, he agrees Parker says he also loves returning to the quiet of home once a tour it will be great for the Japan audience to see two versions. He also has huge cycle is over. And yet, he’ll be restless within a few days after seeing admiration for Onuki, and it seems the feeling is mutual. Perth through his window, rather than a new town each day. “I remember being so impressed by his performance in Swan Lake That love of the road did make his isolationist recording technique in 2010,” says Onuki. “That was when I decided that I had to work in a all the more straining as he worked on Lonerism, and his anxious major production with Matthew Bourne. When I heard about Dorian Gray perfectionism certainly didn’t help. Yet, it wasn’t always a “crucifying” I headed out to London by myself to audition. I wasn’t really nervous, my process. In fact he absolutely relished extended stretches of his self overriding emotion was determination; I couldn’t leave there without imposed little exile. getting the role.” “There wasn’t much I needed to make myself comfortable. I’m fine Onuki is looking to repay the faith shown in him – he got the part, with eating avocado on toast three times a day and drinking red wine,” of course – with a powerful performance in a show he’s expecting to be he says of his Spartan existence during those recording sessions – the spectacular. same sort of rhythmic retreats he’d take in his bedroom as a boy, while “It has a bit of everything, a mixture of wildness and beauty with his parents argued down the hall. scenes that you almost can’t watch, yet at the same time can’t look away. I Parker says a minimalistic lifestyle was more than enough to am sure it will be a huge success, I just hope I do the role justice.” sustain him while he recorded Lonerism, even at the most stressful of times: “When you’re doing something you love, you don’t need For more information on Dorian Gray: www.new-adventures.net/ anything else to make you comfortable.” productions/doriangray or http://hpot.jp/dorian_gray/ for shows in Japan.

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Luxury 3 bed room Condominium, 201 sqm For Sale 8LDK Mansion, Fuefuki-shi, Yamanashi For Sale Koen Station (6 minutes) Private Sale Price: ¥158,000,000 Price: ¥55,000,000 Royal Yoyogi Garden is a low rise apartment building located in the quiet Dreamloft is a comfortable escape from civilization. Surrounded by lush residential neighborhood of Moto Yoyogi in -ku. The apartment is mountains, this is a home away from home to settle back and reflect in. on the third floor and is a short walk to Yoyogi Park and the trendy fashion The house was designed specifically for demanding tastes that match meccas of and Omotesando. This sun drenched apartment was the world–class features of the area. With easy access to the Woodstock fully renovated only 5 years ago and features a large 66 sqm, south-facing Country Club and the Misaka ski slopes, this 8-bedroom house ensures living, dining and open kitchen which is perfect for entertaining guests. everyone has enough space to spread their wings. Peach orchards and Contact: [email protected] or Tel: 03-3588-8861 forested areas encircle the property and you’ll find it hard to believe you’re only an hour from the Tokyo Metro area. Tel: 090-8050-7775. www.realestate.co.jp Japanese Property for International Buyers and Renters

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PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES Tokyo’s Longest Running Society Page, with Bill Hersey

s the old song goes, there’s no business like show business, proving what amazing things can be done with the human body. Marie and I really feel lucky living here in Tokyo, where there’s Andersen, who was visiting here from New York, told me whenever they always a full schedule of all kinds of showbiz happenings. perform in the Big Apple, tickets sell out the first day they go on sale. Met The highlight for me the last few months was the Cirque du the performers after their show here, at an after party, and the director Soleil production Michael Jackson, The Immortal. Bragging gave me a photo book of the history of the troupe. You have to see the things aA bit, but not exaggerating when I say thank you to long time friend, they do to believe them. Cirque founder Guy Laliberte, for two tickets that had to be the best seats Min-on, a leader in international cultural exchanges, also brought in Saitama Arena for the awesome shows’ opening night. The show was the “Dramatic Tango Show” to Japan. This featured the excellent sort of a magical combination of a Broadway musical and a circus. The Orchestra Nicolas Ledesma, singer Maria Viviana and three groups of sets, the costumes, special effects, multi-talented international cast and, top dancers who are pioneers of the new era of Tango. It was a great of course, Michael’s music added up to what I feel was one of the most evening in every way. exciting and entertaining shows I’ve ever seen. Believe me I’ve seen a lot I also enjoyed Kyodo Tokyo’s presentation of an American production of great shows all over the world (and I feel so lucky) but this one was of the Broadway musical “Hair” at the beautiful Orb theater in Shibuya. I really very special. The cast of dancers, singers, trapeze artists, acrobats, had the opportunity to meet a member of the Chicago family who financed jugglers, etc were all outstanding. My favorites were a young guy with the original production back in 1964, and have seen the show four or five one leg, who, with crutches, could really dance, and an Oriental girl times (in three different languages!). The music, which includes “”, who looked like actress Devon Aoki (from Sin City and the Fast and the “Easy to Be Hard” and “Good Morning Sunshine” is good, and the mostly Furious sequel) and made some dynamic sounds on an instrument that U.S. cast here were really talented. The Japanese production side respected was sort a combo guitar and violin. She had a great body, long hair, a sexy local taboos and the stage and theater went pretty dark for what was once a costume, and really knew how to move. After the show went backstage very controversial number when the cast enters the stage completely nude and congratulated many of the performers I knew through their partying to sing “Hair”. Love Japan, but it’s difficult to understand why laws still at the New Lex Tokyo when they were in Japan performing for one of forbid nudity and we still have that age-old law about dancing in a club Cirque du Soleil’s many tours here. Watching and waiting for the DVD after midnight. Oh well, time will, I’m sure, change things. release of this show. It’s one I’m sure you’d enjoy as well. Writing all this mid-June and really looking forward to Udo artists The Min-On tour of the Shenyang acrobatic troupe was also pretty international’s July 11th concert by Sarah Brightman at the International spectacular. The cast – mostly from the Shenyang area of China – join Forum. I really agree with Sarah’s ex-husband Andrew Lloyd Webber that the group when they’re usually very young and, with strict training she has ‘A Voice from Heaven’. Two years ago I had a party at the New Lex over the years, really develop into the best in the world at what they do, Tokyo for one of her dancers. She dropped by, and really was nice. Just

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Latvian PM Visits Japan: 1. Prime Minister Vakdis Dumbrovskis with Latvian 8. Jacob Reiner, his mom Diane, who works with kids in Uganda, Moto Segawa amb. Peteris Vaivars 2. Austrian amb. Bernhard Zimburg, Grand Master and Haime Sempere at the Jamaican Festival 9. Weekender publisher Ray of Ceremonies, Imperial Household, amb. Nobutake Odano Holy See amb. Pedersen with friends Chris Zook, Bernie Touchette and Sheldon Carpenter at the Archbishop Joseph Chennoth, Greek amb. Nikolaos Tsmadados 3. Hungarian Ecology Festival 10. Outgoing Jamaican amb. Claudia Barnes and her model niece amb. Dr. Istvan Szerdahelyi, amb. Vaivars and Duco B. Delgorge, Chairman of Taryan Harvey, visiting here from Canada. 11. Randy, who works at bar Rita in the European Business Council in Japan 4. Slovenian Minister Oto Pungartnik Shinjuku, at the Okinawa Festival. 12. Mathieu Buglet and Saigo Mezzo of the with Polish amb. Cyryl Kozaczeweski. French customized sunglasses company Nunettes at the Jamaican Fest. Yoyogi Festivals: 5. Young artist at work at the Jamaica festival Cool Koreans here to promote G.I. Joe for Paramount: 13. Director John M. 6. Shakin’ the blues away, exotic dancer at the Earth Festival 7. Okinawan duo Chu 14. Superstar Byung-hun Lee. Akidasu, here to promote their CD at the Okinawa Street music Festival

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New Kabukiza Theater Opening National Azabu Supermarket Celebrates 51st Anniversary 1. Argentine amb. Raul Dejean, his aide Teresa and El Salvador amb. Martha Zelayandia 9. The store’s mascot, Felix the cat, makes a new friend 10. Trevor and Nina Webster with Cisneros 2. Malayasian amb. Datuk Shaharuddin and his wife Datin Norasikin. their daughter Amalia, store regulars 11. Always helpful store staffer Hiro Haibara 12. Paella master Benito and National staffer Phillip Cortez At the Asian Pacific Charity Bazaar 3. Samoan amb. Dr. Kilifoti Eteuati with Fijian amb. Iskeli Mataitoga 4. Lots of Filipino Min-on Concert Association’s Super Tango Show smiles from amb. Manuel Lopez and the ladies from Melba’s catering services 5. Fashion 13. Argentinian amb. and Senora Dejean with six of their country’s most talented tango designer Yamamoto Kansai 6. Bianca Lutfi, wife of the Indonesian amb., and HIH Princess dancers. 14. Argentinian vocalist Maria Viviana, Tango Orchestra conductor Nicolas Hitachi 7. Miriam Arai and noted architect Tejima-san 8. Takako Wakely and Paula Ledesma and Model-actor K West. Bowers, who is married to the Canadian ambassador

JULY 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES | SOCIETY | 37 picked up her latest CD “Dreamchaser” at Tower Records, it’s beautiful Several ambassadors there, including Philippines Ambassador Manuel music at it’s best. Lopez and Malaysian Ambassador Datuk Shaharuddin, made sure I Shibuya’s Tower Records has really remodeled. There’s more floor tried the delicious food from their countries. I also enjoyed meeting space for the increasingly popular K-pop, they have some fun fashion on and chatting with Samoan Ambassador, Etbuati, and Fiji Ambassador, the first floor, and a good selection of international books and magazines Mataitoga. It was a colorful, lively event with proceeds going to several on the 2nd floor. They’ve also opened a trendy café on the 2nd floor. The worthwhile Asia Pacific Charities. Kudos to all concerned. décor is mostly wood and bricks, there’s lot of comfortable furniture to relax on, a rack of Japanese and international magazines to read, tables Paramount’s G.I. Joe Promotion for computers and good inexpensive food and drinks. It really is worth Korean Superstar Byung-Hun Lee was in Japan with top Korean Director checking out. John M. Chu to promote the SF/Martial Arts film G.I. Joe: Retaliation. At the press conference they certainly made it easy to see why so many Latvia’s Prime Minister Visits Japan Japanese have become such big fans of Korea’s actors, singers, etc. Believe It was wall to wall with mostly European ambassadors and Japanese me they both had, as they say, their acts together. government officials when Latvian Ambassador Petaris Vaivars hosted a reception to greet his visiting Prime Minister, Vaidis Dombrovskis. Busy Schedule at Yoyogi Park Happy to hear the PM’s visit was a big success. I was not so happy to Now that warmer weather’s here, thanks to the park administrators, hear that Petaris, after seven years in Japan, will be returning to Latvia. Yoyogi Koen really has a full schedule of festivals/events every weekend. He’s an excellent diplomat and a truly good friend. A few weeks after My house is just a five minute drive away and I spend a lot of Saturdays the reception, he hosted a program of Latvian music. It was on a Sunday and Sundays in the beautiful and busy park. In just the last few months and due to other commitments I couldn’t go, a real shame as friends happenings have included the popular Thai Festival, a bigger and better who were there told me they really enjoyed it. Petaris told me his son, Jamaican Love weekend, Earth Day, a break-dancing contest, a pet who attended Temple University here, and who I got to know, just got a festival, a spectacular Japanese folk dance contest with 90 groups from all scholarship to a University in Seoul where he’ll study Korean. We wish over Japan competing. I always love the Hokkaido Food event, Okinawa him all the best there, and wish Petaris all the best back in Latvia. Street Music festival, Cinco de Mayo fiesta, and the funky and fun gay pride parade. They’ve all been well worthwhile going to, with inexpensive Opening Ceremony New Kabukiza food and drink, good and often unusual entertainment, lots of shopping Rain during the opening ceremony for the new Kabukiza in Ginza did opportunities and thousands of interesting people having a great time. not dampen the enthusiasm of the many VIPs invited or the large crowd The Park’s flea markets are also worth checking out. God knows I don’t gathered with their umbrellas that day. Several former Prime Ministers need anything, but always manage to buy something I can’t resist. See and their wives were in attendance, as were Watanabe Productions you at Yoyogi Park. president, Misa Watanabe, Yoshiko Morita, the wife of late and great founder of Sony, Akio Morita, and a mix of Japanese showbiz personalities Happening People and diplomatic couples. Really enjoyed lunch at the Grand Hyatt with Ron and Maria Andersen, Thanks to Shochiku President Jay Sakamoto, my first balcony first who were visiting here from NYC, and our mutual friends Shun and row center seat gave me an awesome, panoramic view of the beautiful Haruko Tokura. Shun, an internationally known composer, is a member theater, its huge stage, great lighting, wonderful sets and fabulous of the committee trying to get the 2020 Olympics in Tokyo. He has a great costumes. The opening day program was perfect, with short speeches by background; his father was Japanese ambassador to three countries so he Jay and a few other VIPs, individual performances by three of Kabuki’s has lived in and learned about a lot of cultures has interesting friends all most famous actors, traditional music and a finale where over 70 of the over the world. Shun’s tall, cool, intelligent and really knows what he’s cultural asset’s cast and crew came on stage. You really should check doing. His wife Haruko is also very international and spends much of her Kabuki out while you’re here. English subtitles on huge LCD screens will time working on worthwhile charity projects. They, like Ron and Maria, enable you to follow the story. are a very special couple.

Asian Pacific Charity Bazaar National Azabu’s 51st Birthday Celebrations As always it was great to see so many people at the annual Asia Pacific Our congratulations to Tohokushinsha film co.’s Honorary Chairman, Festival and Charity Bazaar at the ANA Intercontinental Hotel. I got there Banjiro Uemura, his son Tetsu, the company President, and their staff a bit late, and couldn’t stay long, but did have the opportunity to talk on the 51st anniversary of their service to and success with the with and get a photo of a lady I’ve long admired, HIH Princess international community from all over the world. The store’s Hitachi. She’s always chic and has a wonderfully warm GM, Dale Toriumi, and his always helpful staff really go all smile – as you can see by the photo – and spends much of out to get the best out of everything they do. Check the store her time supporting all kinds of worthwhile charity events. out, you’ll be amazed at the marvelous variety they’ve made Thank you my friend. available for their customers.

Maria and Ron Andersen with Shun and Haruko Bulldog BBQ’s Callum Campbell with Oman amb. Khalid al-Muslahi, his wife Abeer Tokura at the Grand Hyatt Tom Toeda Akie and PM Abe’s wife

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www.tokyoweekender.com JULY 2013 There aren’t robot waiters, but there are robot-driving dancers, bikini-clad taiko drummers and ninja-masked stagehands and when you look up from your it won’t be the surroundings of any other novelty ‘restaurant’ you’ll find in town, but a non-stop spectacle of a show that has to be seen to be believed

he Robot Restaurant – can you possibly have avoided hear- ing about it/seeing the posters/ the trucks with ten-foot robots that might make Madonna jealous driving around central Tokyo these last few months? – is about the furthest from the eating-focused establishment its name might suggest, and it is the kind of place where you have to leave your inhibitions at the door. It’s perhaps no major surprise that the place will already be more than familiar to most of you – even if you haven’t often left your house over the last year you will have heard friends talking about the place, read about it in one of any number of blogs and news sites that have picked it up, watched clips on TV or even seen a snippet of a recent Tokyo-filmed from the rock band Muse, which featured the place heavily. We visited to find out a little more about how things are going after a year and found the still unique place seemingly thriving. The experience, a one hour show barely punctu- ated by anything less than the extraordinary, doesn’t fit into the slightly trite ‘only in Japan’ category, nor even would this be an ‘only in Tokyo’ experience – this is surely all only pos- sible in Kabukicho. The Concept As far as efforts to help Japan’s recovery post- earthquake, a Robot themed cabaret-restau- rant in a Tokyo entertainment district is pretty far fetched in conception, but that is one of the reasons the idea supposedly came into frui- tion. Whether or not the aim “to make people more genki” was motivated by society’s ma- laise is not entirely clear, but there are certain- ly a lot of gaping jaws and happy faces around the place when we arrive – it’s hard to imagine the brainstorming session when the idea was being formed but on first impressions things seem to be working out quite well. The whole thing cost about $10 million, and it shows, though that figure (which is emblazoned on Hummers that drive around Tokyo inviting you) should perhaps be no surprise. Land in the centre of Kabukicho was procured, previous premises were de- molished (small bars and a parking lot) and then all manner of technology and décor was installed, not to mention staff hired. Around 30 full-time dancers, each aged in the showbiz golden zone of between 19 and 30 years old nabbed what was appar- ently a rather sort-after job – just one or two are hired from every ten who reach the audition stage. They each earn a compara- tively high wage (staff mentioned a figure in the region of ¥500,000/month) that sets them apart from some who you might tradition- ally expect to be working in the area, par- ticularly for something that, however much you might think otherwise, is basically just good clean fun. The Show Around 12,000 bulbs line the walls of the waiting room, giving a glaring taste of what is to come and leading you through and down to the show area. There you’ll sit and just take it all in. The show is split into four sections, each having developed in scale and tightness (responding to feedback – it is worth going again if you’ve been already) and each something that reading about may the somehow random aspect of what even- code, of course… At times, though, it is simply potentially spoil – look away now if you tually comes next every time you feel like a manic, inhibition-zapping festival of ‘what think that’s true! you’ve had enough shocks, but self-pro- on earth were they thinking?’ Perhaps the most surprising thing about duced movies with the girls dancing in the It’s hard to think of something ‘serious’ the whole experience is how much fun it all is desert or setting the scene for ‘battle’ do and intelligent to say about the place. But we the second (or third…) time around – watch- help pass the time... enjoyed it and would probably be back: we’d ing the reactions of others in the crowd is It should be easy to write about the show most likely go with friends visiting from over- as fun as experiencing events for yourself at the Robot Restaurant. There are robots, seas, hoping to give them that other-worldy at times. That crowd, made up of couples, there are girls, there are taiko drums, there Tokyo feeling many long-term residents have groups of both men and women, a handful of is a giant mechanical armadillo (we think perhaps forgotten, and we would again be re- foreign visitors and some who seem like reg- that’s what it was!) that does battle with a minded of the time we were also ‘fresh off the ulars is diverse, but everyone seems happy to Kung-fu panda lookalike and there are some boat’ types. Life during and after a visit to the go along for the ride. perhaps Daft Punk-inspired figures (we do Robot Restaurant does feel a little less serious Things have grown over the year and a wonder if any royalties changed hands) who for a while – and that’s something we’re sure bit since it opened, with seating that flanks skate around the place on Segways dodging everyone can get down with. the action now four-tier rather than the lasers and pumping up the crowd with their initial two and even more LED screens in- glowsticks. You’ll perhaps recognize aspects stalled to show live action movies that have of cult toys or icons of your youth in much been produced to complement a ‘story’ ele- of what the costume and character design- ment that helps things make slightly more ers have come up with and while it refer- sense. There are more than 200 of the seem- ences all that you might at times feel as if ingly permanently colorful 44-inch monitors you are watching the end level boss battle that surround the stage area, including on your character in a long-forgotten console the ceiling. We’d have no complaints about game – after you’ve tapped in the Konami

Weekender’s Robot Restaurant Experience: Before we left the office we had a few chats about the place (one amongst our number had been before) and talked of the ‘five million lightbulbs’ and $100m spent. After we left, we realized we’d not been entirely duped by exaggerations and were glad to have got to the roots of where the rumours came from. Here are a few choice first impressions: “It was a little boy’s dream come “A concept that is brilliant in its “You can experience pretty much all true kind of experience: robots, simplicity. Robots and dancing things “Japanese” in one place – in guns and girls, like the front girls. What’s not to like?” one hour – and it will shock you! ” cover of a sci-fi novel, but real” Liam, Creative Dir. Asi, Exec. Producer Toda, Media Dir. MOVIES Coming to a cinema near you in JULY

JUL 27 The EMPORER nyone with even a passing interest in Japan’s recent history (especially if you Adon’t mind watching a story ‘inspired’ by actual events) will want to catch Emperor, which stars acting legend – and of course the face of – Tommy Lee Jones, who as General Douglas MacArthur must first learn how to carry off that iconic pipe you can see in the picture there. Upon arriving in a devastated Japan soon after the Second World War surrender, MacArthur tasks General Bonner Fellers, played by Lost star Matthew Fox, with establishing whether Emperor Hirohito should be tried and executed as a war criminal. This joint US and Japanese production features a wealth of homegrown talent amongst the Hollywood stars including Toshiyuki Nishida, the veteran actor who you may have seen alongside Tommy Lee Jones advertising Sapporo beer on the train, and Eriko Hatsune, most famous for her role in Norwegian Wood. As General Fellers, an expert in psychological warfare and Japanese culture, searches for answers he attempts to track down a teacher who first brought him to Japan some years ago. The general must make a decision that will seal the fate of a nation in this tale of political intrigue, love and honour that brings life to the rather close to home events in the aftermath of the Second World War.

JUL 20 The Wind is Rising JUL 13 hat is there to say about Hayao Miyazaki and his Ghibli Wanimation studio that hasn’t already been said? He has been delighting Japanese audiences for over 30 years with his beautiful animated works and ever since the success of 2007’s his films have become well regarded internationally and are quite possibly the reason many people choose Short Peace to visit and live in this country. The Wind is Bernie Rising (Kaze Tachinu) tells a fictionalised efore Studio Ghibili garnered such he slightly left field pick for this month account of the life of the man who designed widespread popularity overseas there was would have to be the Jack Black starring the Mitsubishi A6M Zero aircraft, a plane that a good chance that if you had only seen one oddity, Bernie. Black, who is known for B was devastatingly effective in the early days T movie it will have been ’s his over-the-top physical comedy performances of the Second World War. The film is based on cult classic, . That film was instrumental tones it down slightly to play Bernie Tiede, a well a comic which itself was based upon a short in bringing attention to Japanese anime abroad, loved member of a small Texas town who begins and subsequently influenced Hollywood in the story from Showa era writer Tatsuo Hori. a relationship with a cold and abusive recently- process, with films such as The Matrix borrowing widowed millionaire, Shirley MacLaine’s Marjorie from the cyber punk masterpiece. Since Akira’s Nugent. The film is helmed by the leader of the 1988 debut the manga artist and director has JUL 20 90s new wave of independent cinema, Richard had only one other major film release, 2004’s Linklater, who has successfully worked with Black , but now the director is back with before, on the comedy School of Rock. The director an interesting project in which Otomo brings has also added a third part to his Before trilogy, together top animators to present four short Before Midnight (with Ethan Hawke and Julie works. Otomo directs two of the shorts himself, Delpy), which will hopefully get a Japan release the stunningly beautiful Combustible and Buki later this year. Interestingly the darkly comic yo Saraba. The collection is rounded out with Bernie is based on a true story and features some Tsukomo and Gambo, directed by Shuhei Morita real life members of the town of Carthage playing and Hiroaki Ando respectively. themselves.

JULY 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com SHOWING THIS MONTH | SCREEN | 43 JUL 6

> SCREENINGS Selected Cinemas

Monster University The Emperor: TOHO Cinemas (Roppongi, Odaiba) Monster University: TOHO Cinemas, (Shibuya, Roppongi) n 2001 Pixar studios introduced us to furry blue monster Sulley and The Paperboy: TOHO Cinemas (Yurakucho/Hibiya, Shibuya) his best friend, little, green, one-eyed Mike, in the smash-hit comedy Bernie: Picadilly (Shinjuku/Marunouchi) Monster’s Inc.. In this prequel John Goodman and Billy Crystal reprise I The Wind is Rising: Picadilly (Shinjuku/Marunouchi) their voice roles as Sully and Mike and we’re shown how the two friends Short Peace: See www.shortpeace-movie.com/jp/theaters first met – you guessed it, at college... In taking us back to those days, (Japanese) we are shown a rivalry that quickly develops between the studious, hard working Mike and the athletic and naturally gifted Sully after they first come together. Pixar’s genius has always lied with its clever combination of smart jokes and pop-culture references that keep the adults entertained and its colourful characters and big-hearted stories that the kids fall in > DVD/BLU-RAY This Month’s Releases love with. Monsters University promises to be no exception to the trend; you can expect a few nods to classic 80s campus comedies as our favourite JUL 3 Vehicle 19 monsters – the voices of Steve Buscemi, Helen Mirren and the Frank Oz A traveler from abroad (Paul Walker) takes a (Bert/Grover/the Cookie Monster) also among them – compete to be the ride in a rental car, only he doesn’t realize the most frightening beast in school. journey will lead to complications with corrupt local police.

JUL 5 A Good Day to Die Hard John McClane is back, and he has his CIA operative JUL 27 son with him to track down and halt the people about to nick some nukes in Russia.

JUL 4 Cloud Atlas David Mitchell, who wrote the tale, taught English in Hiroshima in his youth for eight years, so perhaps the time-period/setting should be no surprise to viewers.

JUL 5 Flight Denzel Washington pulls off an incredible feat in crash landing his airliner, but as plaudits roll in the full, troubling truth begins to surface.

JUL 8 That’s My Boy The paperboy Adam Sandler and Andy Samberg star as father oming this way after causing a stir at Cannes is the hot and steamy and son who are closer in age than is perhaps film noir (not the 1980s Atari videogame) The Paperboy. The film normal and who lack a woman in their life – until Chas a stellar cast that includes Matthew McConaughey, who has now… really been proving himself more than just a pretty face recently with JUL 12 Ted a string of challenging roles that have made a welcome change from the A movie with the merch no mother would bland rom-com fare he was becoming known for. Zac Efron also seems on knowingly buy her young kids, starring a lewd a mission to show his acting chops, with the former High School Musical bear and written/directed by Family Guy creator and tween favourite taking on a dark and raunchy role, not unlike his Seth MacFarlane. former co-star Vanessa Hudgens did in last month’s Spring Breakers. The Freelancers – pair star as brothers, McConaughey being a Miami-based investigative JUL 21 It’s got 50 Cent and Forest Whitaker in it – plus reporter out to prove a violent death row inmate, played by John Cusack, Robert De Niro – which means hardcore fans will was framed for murder, with the help of his little brother (Efron) and the probably want to watch this not so well received sultry fiancee of the accused, played by Nicole Kidman. Directed by Lee tale of NYPD rogues. Daniels (he also co-wrote the screenplay with Peter Dexter, on whose novel the story is based), this is the follow up to his Academy Award nominated

2009 hit, Precious. This month’s movie previews were written by Christopher O’Keeffe. For more movie news and reviews visit www.tokyoweekender.com

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6 AGENDA: THE WEEKENDER ROUNDUP OF WHAT’S HAPPENING IN JULY

1 JUL 26-28 2 Jul 25 3 JuL 26 - SEP 1 4 JUL 14 Fuji Rock Festival /Boyz Noise Ultraman Festival Serge Gainsbourg Night Bjork, Nine Inch Nails, Performing together Meet and greet the An eclectic line up of local The Cure, The XX, DJ as Dog Blood, expect characters of the cult artists will pay tribute to Shadow, My Bloody Valentine, Toro plenty of big hangovers and bruised TV series that pioneered the use of the smoke-voiced chansonnier in Y Moi, Yo La Tengo and more in the ears on the train to Fuji Rock the special effects: plenty of collectibles celebration of “Le 14 Juillet”. Niigata mountains. following morning. will be available. Tickets: ¥3,000 (adv.)/¥3,500 (door) Tickets: ¥42,800 (3-day)/¥17,800 (1 day) Tickets: ¥4,000 (adv.)/¥5,000 (door) Tickets: ¥1,600 (adults)/¥1,000 (students) Venue: Super Deluxe, Roppongi Venue: Naeba Ski Resort, Niigata Venue: Womb, Shibuya Venue: Sunshine City Ikebukuro More info: www.super-deluxe.com More info: www.fujirockfestival.com More info: www.smash-jpn.com More info: www.ulfes.com/2013

5 JuL 27 6 JUL 27 7 JuL 13 8 JuL 12 Shinjuku Eisa Sumida Fireworks London Elektricity House of Liquid Catch performances Come gasp at Japan’s Hospital Records co-owner Red Bull Music Academy of this traditional oldest and largest will be drum ‘n’ bass fans’ celebrates nine years of Okinawan dance in the streets of fireworks display, featuring a pick of the month long anniversary house, bass and beats with Mount Shinjuku to the beats of portable whopping 25,000 fireworks and celebrations at the Daikanyama Kimbie and more. taiko drums. Not to miss! millions of viewers. club. Time: 21:00-late | Tickets: ¥4,500 (adv.) Time: 13:00-20:00 | Tickets: Free Time: 19:05-20:30 | Tickets: Free Time: 23:00 | Tickets: ¥3,000 Venue: Liquidroom, Ebisu Venue: Around Shinjuku Venue: Sumida Park, Asakusa Venue: Unit, Daikanyama More info: www.redbullmusicacademy.com More info: www.shinjuku-eisa.com More info: www.sumidagawa-hanabi.com More info: www.unit-tokyo.com/

JULY 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com JULY | AGENDA | 45 JULY

9 EnJoy a taste of SUMMER!

10

Original Outback B.L.T. salad Oven-roasted tomatoes, bacon, wood-grilled red onion, chopped romaine lettuce and candied 11 pecans tossed in a blue cheese vinaigrette.

For a limited time only! Enjoy a juicy Premium Strip Steak and a delicious Outback original B.L.T. salad at any Outback Steakhouse (available from Jul 3rd - Sep 1st) 12

Premium Strip Steak A well marbled and juicy 9 JuL 18 10 JUL 30 Aussie Black Angus Wenzel Fuchs, Berlin Mumford & Sons strip steak that will Philharmonic A combo of banjo, truly delight your Enjoy a fascinating journey mandolin, guitars, tastebuds! Served with through the romantic melodies of choruses and drums form this high- your choice of two side Weber and the poetic beauty of energy British troupe, for those who items and a cup of Soup Brahms courtesy of Tokyo Sinfona. can’t catch them at Fuji Rock. of the Day or a salad Time: 18.30 pm (doors) Time: 11:00-late | Tickets: ¥6,000 (House or Cesar) Venue: Oji Hall, Ginza Venue: Studio Coast, Shin-Kiba More info: http://tokyosinfonia.com/ More info: www.smash-jpn.com

11 JUL 20-21 12 JUN 15 Brazilian Day Walking with Dinosaurs The most ‘intoxicating’ The Cretaceous, Jurassic event of the summer at and Triassic period arena Yoyogi with copious amount of South spectacular based on the TV show American booze swilled, swinging will teach you a thing or two about hips, and exposed skin. beasts. Tickets: Free Tickets: ¥3,150 ~ ¥10,500 Venue: Yoyogi Park Where: Yokohama Arena, Yokohama More info: www.festivalbrasil.jp More info: www.wwdj.jp

www.tokyoweekender.com JULY 2013 BACK IN THE DAY: JUNE 1988 Check out the scene in Tokyo from 1988! You can read the rest of this issue (No.26 1988) and view Weekender’s 42 year archive online. www.tokyoweekender.com/weekender-archives/