Crocodile Rock Trade Show Here
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BACK IN TECH OPPORTUNITY THE GAME KNOCKS CHANTAL ROOS STRIKES TIME RENZO ROSSO’S OTB SEES OUT ON HER OWN A RAFT OF TECH IPOS PLENTY OF ROOM FOR WITH A QUINTET OF ARE IN THE WINGS GROWTH DESPITE A DIP IN FRAGRANCES. PAGE 6 IN THE U.S. PAGE 5 PROFITS LAST YEAR. PAGE 4 STRIKE OVER HIGHER WAGES Mass Protest Goes On At China Shoe Plant By LARA FARRAR SHANGHAI — No resolution has been reached be- tween one of the world’s largest shoe manufacturers and tens of thousands of workers who are on strike over a benefit dispute at the company’s factories in the southern province of Guangdong. FRIDAY, APRIL 18, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY The Taiwanese-owned Yue Yuen Holdings Ltd., WWD which makes shoes for Nike and Adidas along with nu- merous other global brands, has not responded to in- terview requests regarding a strike among employees that began in early April and has since intensifi ed into a widespread protest involving at least 30,000 workers in Dongguan, a manufacturing epicenter in southern China. Worker rights groups have said the strike is one of the largest in recent history in the country. “It is a very complicated situation,” said Geoffrey Crothall, a spokesman for the Hong Kong-based China Labor Bulletin, which has been monitoring the ongo- ing protests. “It will take time to sort it out.” Crothall added that the situation is highly po- litically sensitive in China, where mass protests are banned and workers are not allowed to organize trade unions not approved by the government. A po- lice presence has been ubiquitous in Dongguan since the protests intensifi ed this week, and some protes- tors at Yue Yuen’s factory have been stopped by po- lice or detained, Crothall said. Calls to employees resulted in little commentary. Most remarked they feared their phones were being monitored by the government and that if they spoke to foreign journalists they risked losing their jobs. The strike has garnered almost no coverage from do- mestic media. When reached by phone, most workers declined to speak. Some said that local non-governmental organi- zations focusing on labor issues are being monitored by the government, and are banned from reaching out to Yue Yuen’s employees. SEE PAGE 12 Italian Beauty Firms See Russia Slowdown By CYNTHIA MARTENS and PETE BORN BOLOGNA, Italy — A depressed domestic market is not the only headache tormenting the Italian beauty industry. A cold chill of concern about the stability of business with Russia generated a current running be- neath the usual discussions at the recent Cosmoprof Crocodile Rock trade show here. Lacoste, a quintessential preppy brand, is testing out its edge with Live, the “There’s a situation of uncertainty; there is a fear house’s newest fragrance. Meant for creative, urban men, the scent begins rolling that after Western sanctions there could be sanctions on the Russian side,” said Duccio Campagnoli, presi- out next week in the U.K., with other global markets to follow through November. dent of BolognaFiere and Cosmoprof, which ran from Industry sources estimate that it could do $160 million to $175 million globally April 4 to 7. in its fi rst year on counter. For more, see page 6. “We were in Moscow for a fair when the Ukrainian crisis emerged, and we noticed that there was a feel- ing of not only uncertainty but also worry on the be- half of buyers regarding their work,” he said. Russia is the sixth-largest export market for Italian beauty manufacturers, and sales of Italian products there rose 5 percent last year. While Russian tourists are a great source of revenue for local mer- chants, Augusto Mazzolari, the most famous of Milanese perfumery owners, said his sales had been growing early this year and then hit a bump. “Lately, ever since America went up against Russia, we’ve lost some of our Russian clients,” he said. “We had a sales increase in January and in February and a drop in March. Russians spend a lot.” Ferragamo Parfums president Luciano Bertinelli PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY SHARON BER said the decrease in the number of Russians traveling SEE PAGE 8 2 WWD FRIDAY, APRIL 18, 2014 WWD.COM Net-a-porter Eyeing Activewear THE BRIEFING BOX T by Alexander Wang and The Elder Statesman. IN TODAY’S WWD By MILES SOCHA According to sources, its new slate of brands in- cludes some exclusives to build traffic and buzz. PARIS — Signaling the strength of the active trend Net-a-porter’s volley into the active universe is in fashion, one of the industry’s biggest online play- only the latest indicator of a buoyant sector poised ers is about to flex its muscles in the arena. for strong growth. Solange Knowles DJed According to market sources, Net-a-porter will Tory Burch is to unveil her new activewear line at the Jimmy Choo later this year unveil a new department grouping next year, launching it in her Elizabeth Street loca- Beverly Hills party. For together several dozen brands that cater to devo- tion in Manhattan and online, with an initial focus on more, see page 10 tees of yoga, spin classes and running — or for apparel and accessories for yoga, running, golf and and WWD.com. women simply smitten with the sporty look and tennis, plus casualwear for air travel and city life. shopping for great sweatpants and racer-back tops. “I find a lot of women wear what they wear to go It is understood the active department won’t be to the gym all day long,” she told WWD last month. a stand-alone entity, but rather embedded in the In 2013, activewear apparel sales in the U.S. main site, telegraphing that today’s customer mixes gained 9 percent, while total apparel was up just designer duds with more casual fare. 1 percent, according to data from The NPD Group. “Net-a-sporter” is among names executives are Today’s sporty uniform increasingly doubles said to be mulling for the project. as leisure apparel, prompting an array of players Reached on Thursday, a Net-a-Porter spokes- to capitalize on a hot fashion and lifestyle trend. GRAVES woman declined to comment. Specialist fitness brands such as Under Armour and AMY Launched in 2000 by former editor Natalie SoulCycle are expanding their product offerings, BY Massenet and owned since 2010 by luxury con- while luxury brands such as Chanel and Dior have PHOTO glomerate Compagnie Financière Richemont, recently branched out into sneakers and the like. Net-a-porter specializes in designer collections, Adidas, meanwhile, is ramping up its collabora- selling cocktail dresses, coats, handbags and high tions with fashion figures, revealing earlier this week heels from brands such as Valentino, Alexander that London-based designer Mary Katrantzou would There has been no resolution in China between one of the McQueen, Isabel Marant, Chloé and Marc Jacobs. collaborate with Adidas Originals on a long-term world’s largest shoe manufacturers and tens of thousands of PAGE 1 The e-tailer already stocks a sprinkling of hood- partnership that will consist of a women’s-focused workers who are on strike over a benefit dispute. ies, track pants, leggings and sports bras from la- apparel and footwear line. Pharrell Williams is also bels including Adidas by Stella McCartney, Spanx, doing a capsule collection for Adidas Originals. A depressed Italian beauty market and concern about the stability of business with Russia sparked discussion at the recent Cosmoprof trade show in Bologna, Italy. PAGE 1 Tisch Investment Boosts Sears Shares Currency headwinds and substantial investments, including the acquisition of Marni, dented profitability at fashion group SHARES OF Sears Holdings million this week to buy 475,000 prices as short sellers look to un- OTB SpA in 2013. PAGE 4 Corp. shot ahead 14.1 percent to Sears shares, according to a filing wind their bets. $38.33 in trading on Wall Street with the Securities and Exchange The overall retail scene was It looks like 2014 is turning into the year of the technology- Thursday. Commission. All told, he owns 2.1 comparatively sleepy. related IPO on Wall Street. PAGE 5 Investors appeared to have million shares of the company. The S&P 500 Retailing been heartened by signs of sup- About 58 percent of the Sears Industry Group inched up 0.1 Lacoste is going after the edgy, creative urban set with its port from Thomas Tisch, who is shares that float on the open percent to 867.54 as the Dow latest men’s scent, Live. PAGE 6 a Sears board member and man- market are sold short and pay Jones Industrial Average slipped aging partner of investment firm off when the stock falls. That can 0.1 percent to 16,408.54. Chantal Roos Four Partners. Tisch spent $15.9 lead to dramatic swings in share — EVAN CLARK , France’s first lady of fragrance, has created a new range of five scents called Dear Rose. PAGE 6 Julien Farel’s new flagship in the freshly redesigned Loews Regency Hotel on Park Avenue is open for business. PAGE 7 Mulberry Re-strategizes for Growth welcomed the news of extending the product range The Tribeca Film Festival opened Wednesday night at the By SAMANTHA CONTI to encompass more entry-priced items. Beacon Theatre with a tribute to Nas. PAGE 10 “My only concern is that, two years ago, Michael LONDON — The new fiscal year won’t be an easy Kors was not as big a competitor as it is today,” said The momentum continues to build for Born Free, the project that one for Mulberry, as the company lowers prices and Norris.