"'A.Tffiinfito~ HEOLOGH'al HURYEY
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" 'A.tffIINfiTO~ HEOLOGH 'AL HURYEY HENRY LA;NDI~S, State Geologh,t BULLETIN No. 18 By MORR.LS )I. Ll~rHH'l'ON OL\'11\PIA FRANK lll. t,'1\JBORN a@,o PUBI.JC l'RINTER. 1918 ,/ .. "'\ A '=>.. -.; ' "'- BOARD OF GEOLOGICAL SURVEY Governor ERXEST L ISTE:R, Cltairmccn. Lieutenaut Go~ernor Loms F. HART. State Tre,1sm·er W . "\V. SrrnRl\fAN, Secretary. President HEKlIY SuzZALLO. President Eu_sBsT 0. HOLLAND. llixar L.rnDEi'>, 8/atf' Geologist. LErrTER OF TRANS~IITTAL Govf'rnor Ernesf Lis/er, Chairman, and Jif·111u ers of the Boa rd of G<'olo.rtical S'U rwy: GEKTLEMEN : I haYe the honor to submit herewi th a report entitled II The Country A botTt Camp Lewis," with tJ1e recommendation that it he printed as Bulletin Ko. 18 of the m:vey reports. Ve1y respectfully, HENRY LAN'ffE.', State Geolo.r;ist. UniYcrsity Shltion, Seattle, .July J, ]91 8. But,1,trrlN No. IS. l'1,,,·rE 1 Picture-map Of Camp Lewis. - Bv courte81J o I Seattle E11gravlnu Co. TABLE OF CONTENTS. Page PREFACE 8 CHAPTER I. C,u1r Lt:wrs AXO V1c1:-.nY......................... 9 The Cantonment . 9 The Carup . ... 10 Trans110rtation Facilities_ . l1 Cities near the Cantonment. .. 11 Tacoma . 11 Seattle ........................· . .......................... 11 Olym1lta . l 2 CHAPTER n. Tin: SrRFACE Fi-:ATt' Ri-:,s oF WEsTr.1<x WAsmxuTox A;,10 o~· TIH; CA~ll' LEWIS CA;,;TOX\ffXT................... 14 The OJ)rmplc Mountains...................................... 14 The Willapa Hills . ln The Cascade Mountain Range................................. 16 Mt. Rainier . 16 The Resources of the Cascades......... ................... 1T The Puget Sound Basin. 18 General Characte1 . 18 An Old Drainage System. 20 Topography of tl1e Camp Lewis Cantonment................... 20 Drainage . 21 \.Vater-Supplies . 23 Sanitation . 24 Road Conditions . 24 Military Uses . 25 CHAPTER III. Tin: 011101:-. ot· TUE Mol' XTAIX R.,xm-:;; .,:,1) OF nu: Peot::-r Sopxn BAs1;,. • . • . • . • . • . 26 The Cascade Range. 26 Mount Rainier and other Similar Peaks.................... 29 The Olympic Mountains . 30 The Puget Sound Basin....................................... 30 CHAPTER TV. 'l'nE Cr,ui,,•rr-; ot' CA ,\11' Li-:w1s..................... 33 Temperature . 33 Temperature Records at Tacoma........................... 34 Comparison or Temperature Condillons at lhe Dil'!'erent Can- tonments . 34 EtTects of Oniformlly of Winter Temperature on the HealLh of the Camp . 38 Eastward Limitations or Western Washington's Climate..... 39 The Rainfall of Western Washington................... 39 Source of the Rains.................... 39 Rainfall l\fap . • . 40 Seasonal Differences . .. 40 LocaJ DitTerences . ... 42 Rainfall at other Cantonments . 43 Snowfall . .. 44 Sultry Weather . 44 Wind Velocity . 46 Sunshine . 46 Comparison or the Climate of Camtl Lewis with tbat. of France and Belgium.................................... 47 6 Table of Contents Paye CHAPTER V. AXOJJ-:NT Cr,IMATLC C1-LA1'\GE::;......... ............. 51 Former Period of Tropical Climate . .. ........... ...... ... 51 Glacial Climate . 52 Source of the P uget Sound Glacier . 52 Soutbe.rn Limits or Glaciation... ......................... 54- T h ickuess of the Ice. 54 The Retreat of the Glacier . 54 Construction of the Gravel Plain and B ills ot the Cantonment.. 56 Origin of the Lakes............... ....................... 60 Other Glacial Epochs......................................... 61 Length of Time Since the last Glaciation............... ...... 61 CHAPTER V I. H u~JAX H 1,:;TonY or nu; CAMP LEWIS RF.01ox...... 63 By Ecl,nond S. Meany. CHAPTER VII. Non:s ox P .LAX'1's Fouxo 1.\' THE V101:nTY OF CA::ltP L 1,wr;:;. By George B. 'Rigg. 7-1 The Trees of the Hills...... .. .......................... ..... ,-1. The Forest Undergrowth ....... 75 Taller S hrubs . .. 76 Smaller Shr ubs . 77 \Voody Vines . 79 Herbaceous Plants . 80 The P rairies . 83 Camp Lewis Plants . .. 85 Forests ............ ... : . 85 Prairies . 87 CHAPTER vrrr. T in : RELATrON 0 1' TT.LE Gt,OLO(lY 0~' WES'l'l':111" WA.S1[- JNG1'0N TO MEASl1llES OT•' l'\1JT.ITARY DEF!sXSt: ............... 92 Western Washington as a Prize of Conquest................. 92 Probability of Attack on Puget Sound . 93 Natural Defenses or Washington .... 94 Strategic Routes of Attacl, . 9i 'fhe Strait of J uan de F uca and Admiralty Inlet.... 97 Climatic Factors ......................................... 101 The Grays Harbor and Chehalis Valley Gateway ........... 102 T he Columbia River-Cowlitz Valley Route ............. .. 104 Columbia River, through the Cascade Gorge, to the Columbia Plateau . 10~ Summary and General Conclusion ..... ........ .. ...... .. .. 105 ILLUSTRATIONS. Faci11g Pr..A'l'ER P(iQC I. Picture-map of Camp Lewis............................... 1 II. A relief map of Washington showing the major topographical features . 8 III. The Olympic Mountains as seen from Puget Sound....... 18 IV. Scene in the Cascade Mountain Range..................... 26 V. Mount Rainier from Paradise Park........................ 36 VI. Sunset View across Puget Sound. 44 VU. View of the Paclflc Highway and the level topogratlhY north· east of Camtl Lewis........ .......................... 54 VIII. American Lake . 64 IX. View of the edge of the Fir Forest or the Gravel Plain near Camp Lewis . 72 X. A virgin forest In Western Washington..... .. ... 80 XI. Ship construction in one of the Puget Sotmd Shipyards.... 90 XII. View of the Columbia River Gorge, from Mitchell Point.... 98 FHHJRES Pauc 1. Map showing the geograph'lcal position of Camp Lewis......... 10 2. Vicinity map showing the relation of Camp Lewis to the near- by cl ties . 13 3. Rainfall map, showing the monthly precipitation, in inches. in different parts of the state.. ............................ 41 4. Comparative map of the northwestern states and of France and Belgium, showing their positions by latitude............. 48 5. Sketch map showing the extent o( the glaciation of the Puget Sound Region . 63 6. Diagram showing the positions of the ice front when the gravel plain of the Camp Lewis Cantonment was made.......... 67 PREFAC:1£ The situation of the Camp Lewis Cautonmcnt is scenic, strategic, and historical. It possesses an enYiron ment of mountain, plain, and water; a· position with all the necessary qualities for a land base; and a location in tbc \'icinity of the :first American setuemcnt in the Northwest. Consistent with the national ideals of educa tion, tho Board of Geological Survey of Washington has authorized the publication of this bulletin dealing with the e things. The aim has been to include the topics of chief inter est, without attempting to g ive a complete history, and to make the account void of technical discussions. The writer has drawn very largely on the work of Director George Otis Smith, of the . S. Geological Survey, Professor Bailey ·wrnis, of Leland Stanford, Jr., University, and Dr. Chas. E. Weaver, of the Un:iYersity of Washington, for the broad outlines in the geological history of the region; on the work of Dr. J. Harlan Bretz, of the University of Chicago, for the glacial history; on the reports by Professor E .•J. Sauuders, of tbe Unfrer sity of Washingto11, for the climate; and on various bul letins of tho . S. ,Veather Bureau for weather record . Acknowledgment is hereby given to all scientific workers concerned. Many courtesies were shown by Brigadier-General Foltz; :Major F . W . Manley, Division Adjutant; Lieu tenant-Colonel Ehrnbeck of the 316th Engineers; Cap tain Wm. R. White of the Quartermaster Department; -:\fajor ,John G. Strohm of the Medical Corps; Professor N. F . Coleman, Educational Secretary of the Y. )I. C. A.; and l\fr. L. 0. Fisher of the U. S. vYeather Bureau. To these the ·wTiter e).1Jresses his appreciation and thanks. Especially grateful is the writer to Professor Edmond S. Meany, :Mr. Victor J. Farrar, and Dr. George B. Rigg, all of t1rn University of Washingto11. Professor :Meany and :Mr. Farrar prepared the exce11ent chapter on human history, and Professor Rigg the authoritative chapter on the plants in the Yicini ty of Camp Lewis. MORRIS l\f. L EIGHTON. WASHINGTON GF-OT..OGICAL S 0 11VEY B ULt,F,T[N No. 18 Pr.ATE ll A relief ma.P of Washington showing the major topographic features. Scale, about 44 m iles to the inch. ·· -·----··----·--=---- Nt 84kt:r ' \ Nad..~, p.._ Mt. Rai,./er \ I \ \ Mr. A~p ) ~ ,vARIIIXClTON GKOLO(I! 'AL i-m,vi::1· Titrl,l,bTI:-. No. 1S Pt~\Tf" IT A rt>llef 111ap or \\ a~hiu:::ton showtni:- I ha urnJor lopoi: ·uphic l'l'atur,. S•·ak. allot 4~ mlln, to the lud1. CHAPTER I CA1\IP LliH\7IS AND VI CINITY Camp Lewis is the great Xational Army Camp of the northwest, named in honor of Captain nleriweiher Lewis, who with Captain T{illiam Clark, made an exploration of this territory dtning the early years of 1804 to 1806. This seems wholly appropriate, for it may be said that at that time Utcse men set the standard f01· daring, hanli hood, and iron--will-to-clo. This name is now familiar to all of the homes of the 110rthwest aud many of the eastern states, for here is.