Getting High on the Himalayas
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Gear Brands List & Lexicon
Gear Brands List & Lexicon Mountain climbing is an equipment intensive activity. Having good equipment in the mountains increases safety and your comfort level and therefore your chance of having a successful climb. Alpine Ascents does not sell equipment nor do we receive any outside incentive to recommend a particular brand name over another. Our recommendations are based on quality, experience and performance with your best interest in mind. This lexicon represents years of in-field knowledge and experience by a multitude of guides, teachers and climbers. We have found that by being well-equipped on climbs and expeditions our climbers are able to succeed in conditions that force other teams back. No matter which trip you are considering you can trust the gear selection has been carefully thought out to every last detail. People new to the sport often find gear purchasing a daunting chore. We recommend you examine our suggested brands closely to assist in your purchasing decisions and consider renting gear whenever possible. Begin preparing for your trip as far in advance as possible so that you may find sale items. As always we highly recommend consulting our staff of experts prior to making major equipment purchases. A Word on Layering One of the most frequently asked questions regarding outdoor equipment relates to clothing, specifically (and most importantly for safety and comfort), proper layering. There are Four basic layers you will need on most of our trips, including our Mount Rainier programs. They are illustrated below: Underwear -
Everest – South Col Route – 8848M the Highest Mountain in the World South Col Route from Nepal
Everest – South Col Route – 8848m The highest mountain in the world South Col Route from Nepal EXPEDITION OVERVIEW Join Adventure Peaks on their twelfth Mt Everest Expedition to the world’s highest mountain at 8848m (29,035ft). Our experience is amongst the best in the world, combined with a very high success rate. An ultimate objective in many climbers’ minds, the allure of the world’s highest summit provides a most compelling and challenging adventure. Where there is a will, we aim to provide a way. Director of Adventure Peaks Dave Pritt, an Everest summiteer, has a decade of experience on Everest and he is supported by Stu Peacock, a regular and very talented high altitude mountaineer who has led successful expeditions to both sides of Everest as well as becoming the first Britt to summit Everest three times on the North Side. The expedition is a professionally-led, non-guided expedition. We say non-guided because our leader and Sherpa team working with you will not be able to protect your every move and you must therefore be prepared to move between camps unsupervised. You will have an experienced leader who has previous experience of climbing at extreme high altitude together with the support of our very experienced Sherpa team, thus increasing your chance of success. Participation Statement Adventure Peaks recognises that climbing, hill walking and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement. Adventure Travel – Accuracy of Itinerary Although it is our intention to operate this itinerary as printed, it may be necessary to make some changes as a result of flight schedules, climatic conditions, limitations of infrastructure or other operational factors. -
Threading the Needle Skiing Lhotse's Dream Line
AAC Publications Threading the Needle Skiing Lhotse's Dream Line ON SEPTEMBER 30, at about 2 p.m., Jim Morrison and I pulled off our overboots, clicked into our ski bindings, and laboriously buckled our boots. Our oxygen masks were off, making every action at 27,940 feet, on the summit of Lhotse, extremely slow and difficult. I reached for my backpack, so much lighter now that my skis were on my feet, and swung it over my right shoulder, then slowly buckled the waist and chest straps. I slid my oxygen mask back over my face, stuck my right hand on the summit cornice, and soaked up the view one last time. Exactly four weeks earlier, on August 31, our team of four—Jim and I, along with photographers Dutch Simpson and Nick Kalisz—left the U.S. from various points and convened at the Kathmandu airport. Jim and I went straight from the hotel to the Nepal Ministry of Tourism to register for our expedition, pay garbage fees, meet our liaison officer, and finalize the two necessary permits for Lhotse: one for climbing and one for skiing back down. We took another full day to organize in Kathmandu before heading to the airport to fly into the Khumbu and begin our trek to base camp. Our goal for this expedition was simple: Jim and I wanted to ski the Lhotse Couloir from the summit in as pure a fashion as we could muster. Forming a super-direct narrow line from the upper Lhotse Face to the summit, the couloir was a dream line for skiing and the complete descent had been attempted several times. -
CC J Inners 168Pp.Indd
theclimbers’club Journal 2011 theclimbers’club Journal 2011 Contents ALPS AND THE HIMALAYA THE HOME FRONT Shelter from the Storm. By Dick Turnbull P.10 A Midwinter Night’s Dream. By Geoff Bennett P.90 Pensioner’s Alpine Holiday. By Colin Beechey P.16 Further Certifi cation. By Nick Hinchliffe P.96 Himalayan Extreme for Beginners. By Dave Turnbull P.23 Welsh Fix. By Sarah Clough P.100 No Blends! By Dick Isherwood P.28 One Flew Over the Bilberry Ledge. By Martin Whitaker P.105 Whatever Happened to? By Nick Bullock P.108 A Winter Day at Harrison’s. By Steve Dean P.112 PEOPLE Climbing with Brasher. By George Band P.36 FAR HORIZONS The Dragon of Carnmore. By Dave Atkinson P.42 Climbing With Strangers. By Brian Wilkinson P.48 Trekking in the Simien Mountains. By Rya Tibawi P.120 Climbing Infl uences and Characters. By James McHaffi e P.53 Spitkoppe - an Old Climber’s Dream. By Ian Howell P.128 Joe Brown at Eighty. By John Cleare P.60 Madagascar - an African Yosemite. By Pete O’Donovan P.134 Rock Climbing around St Catherine’s Monastery in the Sinai Desert. By Malcolm Phelps P.142 FIRST ASCENTS Summer Shale in Cornwall. By Mick Fowler P.68 OBITUARIES A Desert Nirvana. By Paul Ross P.74 The First Ascent of Vector. By Claude Davies P.78 George Band OBE. 1929 - 2011 P.150 Three Rescues and a Late Dinner. By Tony Moulam P.82 Alan Blackshaw OBE. 1933 - 2011 P.154 Ben Wintringham. 1947 - 2011 P.158 Chris Astill. -
Nuptse 7,861M / 25,790Ft
NUPTSE 7,861M / 25,790FT 2022 EXPEDITION TRIP NOTES NUPTSE EXPEDITION TRIP NOTES 2022 EXPEDITION DETAILS Dates: April 9 to May 20, 2022 Duration: 42 days Departure: ex Kathmandu, Nepal Price: US$38,900 per person Crossing ladders in the Khumbu Glacier. Photo: Charley Mace. During the spring season of 2022, Adventure Consultants will operate an expedition to climb Nuptse, a peak just shy of 8,000m that sits adjacent to the world’s highest mountain, Mount Everest, and the world’s fourth highest mountain, Mount Lhotse. Sitting as it does, in the shadows of its more famous partners, Nuptse receives a relatively low number of EXPEDITION OUTLINE ascents. Nuptse’s climbing route follows the same We congregate in Nepal’s capital, Kathmandu, line of ascent as Everest as far as Camp 2, from where we meet for a team briefing, gear checks where we cross the Western Cwm to establish a and last-minute purchases before flying by fixed Camp 3 on Nuptse. From that position, we ascend wing into Lukla Airport in the Khumbu Valley. We directly up the steep North East Face and into trek the delightful approach through the Sherpa Nuptse’s summit. The terrain involves hard ice, homelands via the Khumbu Valley Along the way, sometimes weaving through rocky areas and later we enjoy Sherpa hospitality in modern lodges with lower angled snow slopes. good food, all the while being impressed by the spectacular scenery of the incredible peaks of the The Nuptse climb will be operated alongside the lower Khumbu. Adventure Consultants Everest Expedition and therefore will enjoy the associated infrastructure We trek over the Kongma La (5,535m/18,159ft), a and legendary Base Camp support. -
Catalogue 48: June 2013
Top of the World Books Catalogue 48: June 2013 Mountaineering Fiction. The story of the struggles of a Swiss guide in the French Alps. Neate X134. Pete Schoening Collection – Part 1 Habeler, Peter. The Lonely Victory: Mount Everest ‘78. 1979 Simon & We are most pleased to offer a number of items from the collection of American Schuster, NY, 1st, 8vo, pp.224, 23 color & 50 bw photos, map, white/blue mountaineer Pete Schoening (1927-2004). Pete is best remembered in boards; bookplate Ex Libris Pete Schoening & his name in pencil, dj w/ edge mountaineering circles for performing ‘The Belay’ during the dramatic descent wear, vg-, cloth vg+. #9709, $25.- of K2 by the Third American Karakoram Expedition in 1953. Pete’s heroics The first oxygenless ascent of Everest in 1978 with Messner. This is the US saved six men. However, Pete had many other mountain adventures, before and edition of ‘Everest: Impossible Victory’. Neate H01, SB H01, Yak H06. after K2, including: numerous climbs with Fred Beckey (1948-49), Mount Herrligkoffer, Karl. Nanga Parbat: The Killer Mountain. 1954 Knopf, NY, Saugstad (1st ascent, 1951), Mount Augusta (1st ascent) and King Peak (2nd & 1st, 8vo, pp.xx, 263, viii, 56 bw photos, 6 maps, appendices, blue cloth; book- 3rd ascents, 1952), Gasherburm I/Hidden Peak (1st ascent, 1958), McKinley plate Ex Libris Pete Schoening, dj spine faded, edge wear, vg, cloth bookplate, (1960), Mount Vinson (1st ascent, 1966), Pamirs (1974), Aconcagua (1995), vg. #9744, $35.- Kilimanjaro (1995), Everest (1996), not to mention countless climbs in the Summarizes the early attempts on Nanga Parbat from Mummery in 1895 and Pacific Northwest. -
Alpine Notes
320 ALPINE NOTES ALPINE NOTES (Compiled by D. F. 0. Dangar) PERSONAL. M. Armand Charlet, Herr Albert Eggler, and Mr. C. F. Meade have been elected Honorary Members of the Alpine Club. M. Charlet has recently retired after forty-seven years climbing as a , guide; in the course of his career he made nearly 3,ooo expeditions in the Alps, ninety-nine of them since becoming a grandfather! Mter twenty years' service he is not standing again for election as Mayor of Argentiere. Herr Albert Eggler is President of the Swiss Alpine Club and was leader of the successful Swiss Mount Everest expedition of I956. Mr. C. F. Meade is known for his Himalayan travels and particularly for his attempts on Kamet; to him is due the credit for discovering the only practicable route up the mountain and he was unlucky not to have reached the summit. In the Alps he made many expeditions including the first descent of the North-east an~te of the J ungfrau with Ulrich and Heinrich Fuhrer in I 903 eight years before the first ascent of the ridge. We congratulate Mr. A. E. Gunther on having been elected an Hono rary Member of the Club Andino Venenolano de Merida. ONE HuNDRED YEARS AGo. Although the first ascent of the Matter horn overshadowed all other achievements in I 86 5, several notable ascents were made in the course of the summer. A. W. Moore and Horace Walker broke away from contemporary practice by carrying out an extensive tour with only one guide, Jakob Anderegg. -
Sellapr FINALVERSION 7.19.188
P R E S S R E L E A S E F 0 R I M M E D I A T E R E L E A S E July 14, 2018 VITTORIO SELLA SEVERE REALITY ANDREW SMITH GALLERY’S FAREWELL EXHIBIT IN SANTA FE e Western Himalaya and the Karakoram Expedition to K2,1909, sponsored by the Duke of the Abruzzi, Luigi Amedeo di Savoia Photographs by Vittorio Sella Exhibit Dates: Friday, July 27, 2018 –September 1, 2018 “I can see fixed on paper the vision of a lost instant, I recognize scenes I had not been able to admire on the spot. And, in such details, I sometimes find the elements of beauty. The toil and accidents of a climb often blind our eyes to the beauty of the highest regions. Our mind cannot retain a true notion of the views we admired. We know we felt up there the strongest emotions, we remember but dimly the truth of the sites which fascinated our senses. Photography helps to choose, to detail, and to idealize such elements as can form a beautiful alpine scene.” ~From the essay “Picturing the Sublime: The Photographs of Vittorio Sella” by Wendy M. Watson in Summit: Vittorio Sella Mountaineer and Photographer The Years 1879- 1909 “Geological evolution is proceeding with such obvious plainness that the traveler feels as though he were beholding a country in a state of formation and witnessing the modeling of the earth’s crust. The slow work of the waters hollows out gorges and hews their walls into new shapes, almost under one’s eyes, with such activity and on such a scale that nothing elsewhere can be compared with it. -
Catalogue of Documentaries Our History
CATALOGUE OF DOCUMENTARIES OUR HISTORY SD CINEMATOGRAFICA was formed in 1961 as a production company. Since its founding, the company has produced Films, Variety Programmes, and Science and Cultural documentaries for the Italian public broadcaster RAI and other leading international television companies. In recent years the company has focused on wildlife, Science and History documentaries with such success that it now counts National Geographic Channels, Discovery Channels, TF1, ARTE, NHK, TSR, ARD/BR, PBS and ZDF, as well as RAI and Mediaset, among its clients. Many SD documentaries have won major international prizes at the world’s leading festivals, including Academy Award, Emmy and Banff nominations. Today SD Cinematografica has over 800 hours of programming to its name. OUR PRODUCTS Documentaries are in our blood. Our vast library of products is constantly being updated with our own productions and a growing number of distribution agreements with Italian producers. In 2006, a totally independent distribution division was created in order to establish a sector that is still in early stages of development in Italy: the Worldwide distribution of high quality documentaries. With over 50 years of production experience and long-established relationships with the top buyers and commissioning editors of the World’s leading broadcasters, SD Cinematografica aims to become the first port of call for Producers who want to get their products onto the international market. For more information and to submit your documentary for distribution, please write to [email protected]. NATURE - pag 3 - Italian Parks - 1st season Directed by: Various Produced by: SD Cinematografica Duration: 18x30' Versions: Format: SD The protected areas of Italy now cover around 10% of the country.National parks are now a reality in Italy. -
Everest Gear List
EVEREST GEAR LIST www. climbingthesevensummits.com Everest Gear List This detailed gear list is provided for your reference. Each item has been selected by our owners and trusted guide staff over the course of many expeditions to the peak and experience from hundreds of expeditions to other peaks. Please follow these guidelines carefully. Every item on the list is mandatory (except where noted as optional) and if you arrive missing some of them you will be required to track them down prior to the climb at your own expense, which can be difficult and costly. We have identified our favorite items and highly recommend these to you. Please Choose Items Like this but your selections don’t need to be these exact items. Please make sure you are fully prepared so that your trip and the trips of your teammates goes smoothly. If you have any gear questions please shoot us an email or give us a call and we can discuss it: we’re here to help! Travel Items Travel Wallet • With passport, cash, travel documents (travel itinerary and hotel vouchers if overnighting en route), and pen. • This must be discreet and able to be hidden underneath clothing layers with either a neck lanyard or a waist belt. Eagle Creek RFID Blocker Neck Wallet EVEREST / TRAVEL ITEMS Day Pack • 30 - 40 L • This pack will be used as a carryon bag for the trip to Nepal and then for the day hikes trekking to base camp (and the Lobuche climb). • It should be light weight and have both a waist belt and chest strap. -
Contents Volume 36, June 2017
THE HIMALAYAN CLUB E-LETTER VOLUME 36 Contents Volume 36, June 2017 Ninety Years of The Himalayan Club – Celebrations and New Beginnings 4 The Himalayan Club Logo for the 90th Year Celebrations 4 An Overwhelming Annual Seminar 4 Launch of Commemorative Himalayan Journal Issue 7 Kekoo Naoroji Book Award 8 Jagdish Nanavati Award for Excellence in Mountaineering 8 Jagdish Nanavati Garud Medal 8 Annual Dinner 9 Banff Film Festival 10 Arun Samant Memorial Lecture 10 Visit to Dharamsala 10 A short Sojourn with the Himalayan Club 17 New Beginnings with the Digital Age 18 Activities of the Delhi Section 18 Climbs and Explorations 19 Tibet 19 Exploration of Southern Tibet 19 International team climbs in Genyen massif, Sichuan - Mt. Hutsa & Peak 5912m 20 Small Australian-Chinese team explores new ground in Tibet 23 Tibet’s Jang Tsang Go climbed 27 South Face of Shisha Pangma in 13 hours 28 Sikkim and Nepal Himalaya 28 Kangchenjunga Skyline Project 28 New Catalan climbs in Nepal 29 Three new routes in Nepal’s Rolwaling Valley 30 First alpine style ascent of Gimmigela East’s North Face 32 Everest - Hillary Step collapsed 33 Kumaun and Garhwal Himalaya 33 Direct route up Thalay Sagar North Face(6904m) 33 Himachal Pradesh 35 Shiv Shankar – 6050m – First ascent of the North Buttress 35 2 THE HIMALAYAN CLUB E-LETTER VOLUME 36 Kishtwar Himalaya 37 A new Route on South face of Brammah II 37 News & Views 39 IMF News 39 Augmented Climbing Wall 40 Dirtbag: The Legend of Fred Beckey 41 Piolets d’Or Awards – 2017 41 Obituaries 42 Warwick Deacock 42 Ueli Steck 44 The man to remember 47 Erich Abram, the last Italian K2 mountaineer 48 Office bearers of the Himalayan Club for the year 2017 50 Narration for Cover Page A 90 year Journey. -
Peaks & Glaciers 2018
JOHN MITCHELL FINE PAINTINGS EST 1931 Willy Burger Florentin Charnaux E.T. Compton 18, 19 9, 32 33 Charles-Henri Contencin Jacques Fourcy Arthur Gardner 6, 10, 12, 13, 14, 15, 38, 47 16 11, 25 Toni Haller Carl Kessler Gabriel Loppé 8 20 21, 22, 24, 28, 30, 46 All paintings, drawings and photographs are for sale unless otherwise stated and are available for viewing from Monday to Friday by prior appointment at: John Mitchell Fine Paintings 17 Avery Row Brook Street London W1K 4BF Otto Mähly Carl Moos Leonardo Roda 36 34 37 Catalogue compiled by William Mitchell Please contact William Mitchell on 020 7493 7567 [email protected] www.johnmitchell.net Vittorio Sella Georges Tairraz II Bruno Wehrli 26 40, 41, 42, 43, 44 17 2 I am very pleased to be sending out this catalogue to accompany our One of the more frequent questions asked by visitors to these exhibitions in the gallery 3 is where do all these pictures come from? The short answer is: predominantly from the annual selling exhibition of paintings, drawings and vintage photographs countries in Europe that boast a good portion of the Alps within their borders, namely of the Alps. Although this now represents our seventeenth winter of France, Switzerland, Austria and Germany. Peaks & Glaciers , as always, my sincere hope is that it will bring readers When measured on a world scale, the European Alps occupy the 38th position in the same pleasure that this author derives from sourcing and identifying geographical size, and yet they receive over one and a half million visitors annually.