Collisions and New Communities) Self-Sufficient Means
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The average visitor to Romania remains in Bucharest – perhaps the most eclectic and erratic European capital – as briefly as possible. Tourists stop by the People’s House, the sprawling palace of dictator Nicolae Ceaușescu built in the 1980s, and several churches, and then off they go to heritage sites or natural landscapes in other parts of the country. ȘTEFAN TUCHILĂ ȘTEFAN COSMIN DRAGOMIR COSMIN For architectural sightseers, however, the city remains fascinating. PALACE OF THE PARLIAMENT 1 (1980s – 2000) TOWER HOUSE (2013) Lead architect: Anca Petrescu 15 Architect: STARH (Florian Stanciu Address: Str. Izvor, 2 – 4 and Iulia Stanciu) Info: www.cdep.ro Address: Str. Carol Knappe 10 Info: www.starh.ro LACRIMI ȘI SFINȚI (TEARS AND SAINTS) RESTAURANT MARINESCU IOANA 6 (2012) ELVIRE POPESCO MOVIE THEATRE Architect: Corvin Cristian (2012) Address: Str. Șepcari 16 10 Architects: Attila Kim and Ciprina Țocu Address: Institut Français, Bucharest, MARIUS CARAMAN MARIUS Bulevardul Dacia 77 Collisions and NATIONAL MUSEUM OF Info: www.institutfrancais-roumanie.com MUSEUM OF THE ROMANIAN CONTEMPORARY ART (2004) 2 PEASANT (1990 – 1992) Architect: Adrian Spirescu 16 Exhibition concept and design: Address: Palace of the Parliament, wing E4 Horia Bernea (former director) (entrance via Calea 13 Septembrie) Address: Şoseaua Kiseleff 3 Info: www.mnac.ro new communities Info: www.muzeultaranuluiroman.ro BUCHAREST (RO) — TEXT: ŞTEFAN GHENCIULESCU, ILLUSTRATION: SYLVAIN TEGROEG Such a collision of historical layers is a rare find: the create public places, to rescue and activate archi- Parliament (1). Still one the largest structures in the Balkan city, the 19th-century modernization, a very tectural and natural heritage, and to create urban, world (in terms of area), it must be foremost among TUCHILĂ ȘTEFAN rich (and rather little known) heritage of interwar artistic and social focal points. Market stagnation the top examples of totalitarian architecture. Even ROMANIAN INTERWAR MODERNISM (1930s) modernism, good quality architecture from the ‘60s, was like a breath of fresh air for the most endangered if you are feeling crushed by its combination of 7 DRAGOMIR COSMIN the largest totalitarian urban operation in Europe, categories as well: old buildings, such as residences megalomania and kitsch, the Architect: Various architects National Museum of Address: Magheru and Bălcescu boulevards APARTMENT BUILDING (2014) and finally, the ultra-liberal, energetic and frighten- in the central districts or industrial remnants, have Contemporary Art (2), situated at the building’s 11 Architect: AND BA ing development since 1990. However, due to the ceased being brutally replaced by wild development rear, with a separate entrance on the south side of the Address: Str. Dogarilor 26 – 30 almost complete absence of architecture competi- and are now occupied and used by these initiatives, complex, is not to be missed. The project was vehe- Info: www.adnba.ro tions, most of the new public buildings lack archi- with minimal changes. Paradoxically, innovation, mently contested; for many, contemporary art had DRAGOMIR COSMIN tectural quality. Private capital and, more recently, new urbanism, community architecture and trendy no business in such a place. But the contrast seems MĂRGULESCU ANDREI APARTMENT BUILDING (2014) bottom-up community initiatives are still the major locations have all seen an explosion nowadays, fertile for artistic production, and this contemporary THE ARK (2009) 17 Architect: AND BA injection in a neo-Stalinist cake has managed to be- Address: Str. Grigore Mora 17 bis factors contributing to good architecture. mid-crisis. A tour of Bucharest is like a roller coast- Architect: Re-Act Architecture Office 3 Info: www.adnba.ro During the last decade, the city initially passed er ride through unfinished and layered historical come a place of experimentation and an outpost – a Address: Calea Rahovei 196A through a spectacular (and very destructive) building projects, an ever-changing sort of museum of dif- bit isolated but still alive with genuine urbanity. Info: www.facebook.com/theark.bucuresti boom, followed by the interminable crisis, which led ferent modernities. Seldom do visitors venture behind the city’s con- to a nearly complete construction freeze. The crisis, crete curtains. The five-kilometre axis tearing across however, favoured an increasingly stronger urban The socialist city today the city hides, especially in the south, a historic MODULAB phenomenon: independent community initiatives Don’t resist the temptation to first visit the land- area that is now isolated and deals with significant GRĂDINA VIITORULUI (GARDEN that manage, with absolutely minimal resources, to mark of Ceauseșcu’s Palace, the current seat of social problems. The Ark (3) is an incubator for 12 OF THE FUTURE) (2014) creative industries (including the International Centre Architect: Modulab TOUR GUIDE TOUR for Contemporary Art), a courageous regeneration Address: Str. Viitorului 153 Info: www.modulab.ro Exploring a operation in the historic building belonging to the city, region, TUCHILĂ ȘTEFAN or theme 19 former commodity exchange, funded exclusively IGNAT HELMUT CHARLES DE GAULLE PLAZA (2004) through private money (see A10 #31). The initiators NATURE PARK VĂCĂREŞTI Architect: Westfourth Architecture (including an architect) wanted a model activation Address: Near Mihai Bravu metro station 18 18 4 CĂRTUREŞTI VERONA BOOKSHOP Address: Piața Charles de Gaulle 15 Observation centre: 17th floor, T4 Tower, project and focal point for the area. The building is (2004) Info: www.westfourtharchitecture.com Asmita Gardens residential complex 8 17 set to become a strong element in a recent urban Info: [email protected] Architect: Șerban Sturdza - Prodid 11 strategy for a pedestrian network in Bucharest. Address: Str. Arthur Verona 13-15 Info: librarie.carturesti.ro 16 Take the subway and get off at Mihai Bravu sta- 15 10 tion to visit what people (improperly) call Văcăreşti Delta (4). In the ‘80s, Ceaușescu demolished an 8 12 5 entire neighbourhood and began the construction 14 9 of a lake. Unfinished, and still in muddy real estate CAROL 53 (2012 – ) waters, the large pit surrounded by a concrete wall 7 Architect: Various architects 13 13 MĂRGULESCU ANDREI has slowly been retaken by nature. Hundreds of plant Address: Boulevard Carol 53 1 and animal species (including several endangered Info: www.casacarol53.wordpress.com CITY GATE TOWERS (2009) ones) are now found in an area surrounded by so- 19 Architect: Westfourth Architecture 6 Address: Piața Presei Libere cialist blocks and new development areas. A group Info: www.westfourtharchitecture.com 2 of several NGOs produced and promoted studies and proposals for the site, constantly threatened by real estate speculation, and managed to obtain 3 an official document declaring it a protected area. Minimal intervention is under discussion, but with 4 ANDREI MĂRGULESCU ANDREI ‘ Market stagnation was PETRE MIHAI DRAGOMIR COSMIN 20 MAKE A POINT CASA MINCU (2013) CONCRETE HOUSE (2014) GARAGE HOUSE (2012) a breath of fresh air (ART TOWER, 2013) 5 9 Architect: Șerban Sturdza - Prodid 14 Architect: Bogdan Gyemant-Selin 20 Architects: Abruptarhitectura (Cosmin Architects: Miruna Stoicescu and Address: Str. Arthur Verona 19 Address: Str. Institutul Medico-Militar 22 Pavel and Cristina Constantin) for the most endangered Santos Garcia Info: www.oar.org.ro Info: www.facebook.com/ Address: Bragadiru, Str. Diamantului 116 V Address: Șoseaua Morarilor 1 ConcreteHouseBucharest categories. ’ Info: www.makeapoint.ro 58 A10 #59 TOUR GUIDE TOUR GUIDE A10 #59 59 (Collisions and new communities) self-sufficient means. A creative and educational IN THE NEXT ISSUE: a little sense of adventure and proper counselling, space for processing, open source design, 3D print- it can be visited at any time. An observation deck was ing, sound engineering, interactive solutions and INTERCHANGE: JULIEN DE SMEDT recently opened on the seventeenth floor in one of other contemporary technological niches. The open The life of Julien De Smedt is divided between the new apartment towers nearby. space evokes a shelter raised by stranded astronauts Copenhagen, Brussels and Shanghai, and he leaves Also by subway you can reach Make a Point (5), an using the remains of their own ships. landmarks and conversation pieces wherever independent arts centre in the heart of Pantelimon, Many independent spaces have found homes he goes. In our upcoming interview, we talk about in a former textile factory. The centre brings together in the East Central area as well, perhaps the most artistic identity, the importance of visionary international networks and community actions. The important one being Carol 53, a house confiscated by architecture and material innovation. Moreover, converted water tower that belonged to the factory the communist regime, subsequently damaged, re- there’s a good reason to talk about versatility has become its landmark. The empty, 37-metre-high stored and now a cultural centre managed (through and sensitivity in designing on different scales, tower hosts art installations, while elegant and ex- partnership with the owner) by a group of young since De Smedt also co-founded a design label, tremely transparent metal stairs enable access to architects (13). Events, performances, exhibitions Makers With Agendas. platforms with spectacular views over the city. and workshops are mutually supported by the con- tinuous process of safety work, repairs and light