VOLUME 7 NO. 28 DECEMBER 4 – DECEMBER 10, 2020 SUBMIT STORIES TO: @STRIPES.COM STRIPESJAPAN.COM FACEBOOK.COM/STRIPESPACIFIC FREE SUBMIT A PHOTO FOR THE COVER OF

Got a great shot of mainland Japan, Okinawa, Korea or Guam? If so, submit it and maybe it’ll end up on the front page of Welcome to the Pacific.

Photo deadline: Jan. 15 NIKKO Exploring its beauty and history Pages 8-10 Facebook.com/StripesPacific stripesjapan.com INSIDE INFO

Kegon Falls Photo by Sarah B. Hodge

GINZAN ONSEN GUIDE lit up WHAT TO DO IN THIS all HOT SPRING VILLAGE ’s PAGES 12-13 n d pa the holi ays Ja for

‘KUSHIKATSU’ 6-7 OSAKA’S DEEP-FRIED Pages SPECIALTY Hiroshima Dreamination Photo courtesy of Hiroshima Lightup PAGE 16 2 STRIPES JAPAN A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC DECEMBER 4 − DECEMBER 10, 2020

Mental Notes with Hilary Valdez Christmas in Japan

BY HILARY VALDEZ, the hours that followed, revealing the com- activities to fill your days off with. Try the Max D. Lederer Jr. STRIPES JAPAN mon emotional fundamentals that connect Osaka Train and Travel tours, or check out Publisher all humans. the Snow Monkey and Onsen trips. Lt. Col. Richard E. McClintic nly about 1 percent of the whole Commander The Christmas season brings out the Reach out! Don’t act like a turtle and population in Japan is Christian. In Chris Verigan universal human goodness in people, but pull back your emotions and behavior. Engagement Director O 1552, the small city of Yamaguchi we have to be open and receptive to the Grab a friend and get out there — there’s Marie Woods was host to Japan’s first Christ- positive life forces surround- plenty to do for free or at low cost. Publishing and Media Design Director mas celebrations initiated by a Chris Carlson ing us. Our thoughts control our Don’t be lonely. Connect with your fel- Publishing and Media Design Manager visiting Jesuit missionary. Each feelings and our feelings control low humans. Stay positive and resilient. Eric Lee year, the city is gorgeously lit up our behavior. Go for it! Have a safe and blessed Christ- Advertising and Circulation Manager with illuminations, decorated Monte Dauphin Don’t despair if you are alone mas. Japan Area Manager with Christmas trees making it at Christmas. Hunt for the good Kentaro Shimura one of the best places to attend stuff! Stay resilient! Volunteer Production Manager Christmas services. to help yourself. Do something Rie Miyoshi Hilary Valdez is a retiree living in Japan. He Engagement Manager When I was a kid growing up you enjoy, don’t stew in your to- is an experienced Mental Health professional Denisse Rauda in New York City, in an apart- matoes. Have fun with friends and Resiliency Trainer. Valdez is a former Publishing and Media Design Editor ment, we didn’t have a fireplace or be your own best Marine and has worked with the military most Publishing and Media Design Writers to roast chestnuts. Instead, I of his career and most recently worked at ChiHon Kim friend and go out Shoji Kudaka roasted marshmallows on the gas stove. and be adventurous. Get Camp Zama as a Master Resiliency Takahiro Takiguchi Trainer. Valdez now has a private Christmas carolers did not come to the on Skype with friends and Layout Designers neighborhood singing Joy to the World, practice and publishes Mamoru Inoue family. Make some calls, books on social and Yukiyo Oda not a good idea. My mother used to take Yuko Okazaki stay connected. psychological issues. Kayoko Shimoda me to Rockefeller Center to watch the ice In Japan, Christmas is His books are Multimedia Consultants skaters. available on Amazon Max Genao Doug Johnson a time to spread happi- Brian Jones Jason Lee One Christmas Eve when I was in the ness, it isn’t a religious and for Kindle. Learn Hans Simpson Chae Pang Yi Marine Corps, I was a Brig Chaser on duty more about Valdez Gianni Youn Robert Zuckerman celebration. There in a Red Line Brig. So, here I was, away are plenty of ways to and contact him at Graphic Designers www.hilaryvaldez. Kenichi Ogasawara Yosuke Tsuji from my family, quietly locked-up with a take in some of this Sales Support dozen of hard-to-handle, hard-core Ma- com or at happiness — Illumi- InstantInsights@ Kazumi Hasegawa Hiromi Isa rines. “Be Here Be Now” ran through my Ichiro Katayanagi Yoko Noro nations are just one of hotmail.com Yusuke Sato Saori Tamanaha mind as I tried to reconcile my loneliness Toshie Yoshimizu Un Chong Yu Japan’s favorite ways while feeling sorry for myself. One of the to celebrate the season. prisoners interrupted the silence as I si- Even Disney- lently stewed in my thoughts of self-pity. land hosts its annual For feedback and inquiries, Then another prisoner started talking, Your base Internation- contact [email protected] then another, and another. The humanity al Tours and Travel To place an ad, call DSN 227-7370 in each prisoner began to reveal itself in office has plenty of fun stripesjapan.com/contact DECEMBER 4 − DECEMBER 10, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC STRIPES JAPAN 3

Finding personal successes Bucket lists and life gratitudes

BY JENNIFER BROWN, saving money up for my hot STRIPES JAPAN air balloon trip and want to continue saving because hen it comes to putting money away is a now life challenges, it associated with the getting is very easy to feel W closer to going on a trip. overwhelmed. Our problems Another tip for having can seem never-ending and 10:30 5:30 personal successes lies in have no tangible solution. being grateful in our daily But it might surprise you to life. This concept doesn’t know that we do have more power than we think in these apply only to Thanksgiving, circumstances because it applies to all aspects of despite the struggles we face, life. This is something I have we can find our own personal actually done as part of a successes. There are many psychology course, where, ways to create and find your for an assignment, my fellow own successes in these times. students and I were required Below are just a few worth to write down what we were giving a try. grateful for during a 30-day The concept of a bucket period. For me, most of the list may be something you’ve things I was grateful for – a roof heard of, or even done over my head, food, clothing, yourself. I, for one, started and family — remained the my own list of things I hope to same throughout the 30 days, accomplish. When I started to but it helped me to appreciate create this list, I gave myself the trivial things like a new full permission to think large shirt or a new movie. This can with no physical or financial really be as simple as writing limits. This list allowed me to a few statements of gratitude. see that I can attain these goals In the end, this exercise with some critical thinking cultivated more positive and budgeting. For instance, feelings and emotions in my I have always wanted to ride day-to-day life. Being grateful in a hot air balloon. This is may do the same for you! an expensive activity, but So, when you’re feeling at with research and planning a loss for control in times of ahead, it becomes more of a overwhelming challenges, possibility. reflect on your goals, what Perhaps one of the biggest small steps you can take challenges we can face with right now and what you’re motivation is the act of doing. grateful for. Whether it be Procrastination can get the writing down affirmations and best of us if we let it, and it can sticking them to your mirror lead to unfinished projects, to- or starting a bucket list, we do lists, and disappointment can take charge of our lives in ourselves. A good way to and find meaning in what we combat procrastination is by do. doing something, anything whether big or small. Jennifer Brown is a hospital Transferring money into corpsman at U.S. Naval Hospital savings is a small step but one Okinawa. Originally from Florida, that will help bring us closer she joined the Navy in 2018 to our personal goals. When and has been on island for over a year. During her free time, we think of it in this respect, Brown enjoys spending time with we can acknowledge much animals, running, rock climbing, more of what we actually do. and hiking. She is a graduate of In turn, when we act, we can the University of Central Florida and holds a Bachelor of Science develop intrinsic motivation in Psychology. Her professional to act again! For instance, I interests include social work, may feel really good about animal welfare, and children.

Stripes Japan is A Stars and Stripes Community Publication. locations where overseas DOD personnel are located. This newspaper is authorized for publication by the Department The appearance of advertising in this publication, including of Defense for members of the military services overseas. inserts or supplements, does not constitute endorsement of However, the contents of Stripes Japan are unofficial, and are those products by the Department of Defense or Stars and not to be considered as the official views of, or endorsed by, Stripes. Products or services advertised in this publication the U.S. government, including the Department of Defense shall be made available for purchase, use, or patronage or the U.S. Pacific Command. As a DOD newspaper, Stripes without regard to race, color, religion, sex, national origin, Japan may be distributed through official channels and use age, marital status, physical handicap, political affiliation, or File photos appropriated funds for distribution to remote and isolated any other nonmerit factor of the purchaser, user, or patron. 4 STRIPES JAPAN A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC DECEMBER 4 − DECEMBER 10, 2020

RANDY BEHR’S Randy Behr -M.A., CSCS, MORR, Cooper’s 25 + years in sports & fitness; coach- ing, teaching, strength & conditioning as an Athletic Director, Health Educator, Sports Healthy Information Director, P.T. Education Director and Fitness Director with the NJCAA, USA Track & Field, Arena Football League, Olympic Training Center, and the California Foot- Matters ball Association. Tips for running in cold weather

soldier walks, A skips, B running. I caution the be- flips. The movement should speed. skips, pawing and shuffling to ginner, intermediate or ad- consist of front arm thumb As far as breathing tech- BY RANDY BEHR, walking lunges. vanced runner to not run too going to chin level and back niques, different distances STRIPES JAPAN Don’t just leave your house quickly as you will deplete arm going to glute and alter- and types of runs (incline/ or office and go run. This is your energy system. Once the nating on every swing. decline) involve different ven when it’s chilly not efficient and it’s unsafe. energy system is depleted it Once you have this done breathing techniques through outside, many of us Warming up using dynamic will take some time to replen- you should focus on gain- the nose and out through the E still hit the streets movements doesn’t only de- ish and certainly not before ing a rhythm where you feel mouth. or track to get in a run. But crease the chance of injury, the race or run is com- comfortable. Basically, get If one encounters an in- before you do, take a look at but research shows it actually plete. into your zone. One way to cline in terrain or head wind, these tips to allow your body improves performance. Stand tall, shoulders get into your zone is to use drop the chin slightly toward to adjust to the weather: A couple of ways it does back and down, tempo. Many runners your chest and the surface First, make sure you get this is it provides a muscle chest out, chin count to them- area will decrease. This will an adequate warm-up. Not a memory for the activity that up focused on selves in an up- lessen your drag, decrease stretch, which is static. one is participating in. This a point in the beat pace of your resistance and improve Second, engage in a 3 to 5 is very important when per- distance with a repeating your speed. minute walk, elliptical or bi- forming any activity. It also slight forward lean one-two, Another trick for inclines cycle - a light activity before allows the body to provide ox- that is almost unnotice- one-two or hills is to shorten your beginning your run. This will ygen to the body and muscles. able. over and over stride. Make your strides elevate your core tempera- Did you ever wonder why Your hands until it becomes re- shorter and quicker in pace. ture before beginning the when you begin your run the should be relaxed, petitive. The arms Don’t try to lengthen or pow- next phase. first 10 to 30 seconds seems not clenched or in a and legs should er through or you will drain The warm-up should be so difficult? Almost as if you Spiderman position, move at the your energy and tire out your functional and dynamic in are tired already’ What one but rather where they same leg muscles. nature. What does this mean? experiences is the first en- look like you are hold- Keep these tips in mind It means perform activities ergy source being utilized is ing a tea cup with your and notice the improvement. your body would do within the phosphagen system - the first finger and thumb the course of a normal work non-oxygen phase. This feel- touching gently. day, such as twisting, moving ing doesn’t last very long so Next, the arms or bending. there is no need to worry. should be locked in at It also means movements Rather, keep it in the back of 90 degrees and should re- CHECK OUT THIS SITE: that require multiple joints your mind as a reminder not main very close to this po- and muscles. Examples, to start off too quickly. sition throughout the move- of these activities include Now we are ready to begin ment. Don’t use dolphin behrsportsperformance.com DECEMBER 4 − DECEMBER 10, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC STRIPES JAPAN 5 Watch Santa come to town NORAD tradition continues despite COVID-19 NORAD

ORAD is busy prepar- ing for its annual tradi- N tion of tracking Santa’s journey delivering gifts around the world. Despite the challeng- es presented by COVID-19, the NORAD Tracks Santa program How to track Santa: is on schedule and NORAD will track Santa on Dec. 24, as http://www.noradsanta.org we have done every year since Follow on 1955. https://www.facebook. As we move forward in our com/noradsanta preparations for this year’s or NORAD Tracks Santa pro- https://twitter.com/ gram, some adjustments are NoradSanta being made to safely carry out our special mission of tracking Santa. The NORAD Tracks Santa website, social media pages, a new mobile app and partner platforms will again be an im- portant part of the program allowing children around the world to track Santa. However, recorded update on Santa’s cur- in-person, call center during or use new mobile apps to get and games to get everyone the NORAD Tracks Santa call rent location. While NORAD the pandemic. NORAD is com- up-to-the-minute Santa statis- ready for the big night. NORAD center is being adapted due understands mitted to track- tics. These apps will soon be Tracks Santa will also provide to ongoing public health con- the call center ing Santa while available on Google Play and daily updates to its 2.1 million cerns due to an increase in CO- is an impor- keeping our the Apple App Store. Fans can social media followers across VID-19 cases. This year, only tant tradition military, their also track Santa with a variety its Facebook, Twitter and Insta- a small number of volunteers for many fam- families, and of other NORAD Tracks Santa gram platforms. will be answering the NORAD ilies around our dedicated partners, to include OnStar and NORAD looks forward Tracks Santa toll-free number, the world, we call center vol- Amazon Alexa. to bringing the 65th year of 1-877-Hi-NORAD, on Dec. 24. reduce the unteers safe. Our online and social media NORAD Tracks Santa to chil- Callers who cannot reach one of health risks posed by attempt- Santa trackers can visit experience will go live Dec. 1 dren and families around the these volunteers will receive a ing to conduct a large indoor, http://www.noradsanta.org and will provide information world. 6 STRIPES JAPAN A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC DECEMBER 4 − DECEMBER 10, 2020 it up Japan’s all l holidays for the

Yokohama Milight Photo courtesy of Metropolis Magazine

BY TAKAHIRO TAKIGUCHI, The tradition of winter illuminations STRIPES JAPAN in Japan is generally considered to have started in Osaka when Tsutenkaku Tow- very year thousands of people er was lit up for the National Industrial flock to parks, malls and other Exposition in 1903. The following year, attractions to marvel at the Meiji-Ya, a high-end import grocer, dis- elaborate and colorful light played a lighted Christmas tree outside displays – from the northern in Tokyo’s Ginza Ward to commemorate island of Hokkaido to the southern is- Japan’s victory in the Russo-Japanese lands of Okinawa – set up to ring in the War. However, Otomo said the practice holiday spirit with dazzling brilliance likely started earlier. throughout Japan. “In the 1890s, some foreign ships These displays, or “illuminations,” berthed at Kobe Port would be deco- are some of Japan’s most popular winter rated with lights to celebrate various oc- attractions, drawing as many as 80,000 casions,” he said. “Kobe locals who saw annual visitors to smaller locales such these illuminations adopted them for as the Itoman Peaceful Illumination in their own celebrations; that would be the Okinawa, and millions in bigger cities on very start of this tradition (in Japan).” the mainland. Although public facilities have been In addition to promoting the holiday decorated with illuminations for longer spirit, there are more practical reasons than a century, individuals started il- for winter illuminations in Japan, ac- luminating their houses about 15 years cording to Takashi Otomo of the Japan ago, according to Keiji Nishimura, man- Illumination Association. aging director of the Japan Illumination “Daytime is getting shorter, the air Association. becomes dry and clear, the temperature “Company employees who were dis- difference between day and night de- patched overseas were introduced to creases and fine weather is continuous holiday illuminations and brought back – all these wintertime factors in Japan this Western holiday tradition to their make optimal illuminations that look homes in Japan,” Nishimura said. “It beautiful,” he said. “Actually, winter is has gradually spread year after year and the best season for illuminations in Ja- today, you can see illuminated houses pan.” throughout the nation.” E “These days, we are seeing individu- als purchase some expensive illumina- tion devices that had only been used for public space in the past,” Otomo added. “As people are becoming more aware of the beauty of holiday illuminations, and home illuminations are catching on. I expect to see them continue to increase every year.” The spread of home illuminations, in part, is a result of the modern-day light- emitting diode, or LED, which makes this energy-consuming tradition more efficient and less expensive. “There are a lot of merits to using LEDs,” Otomo said. One LED consumes only 0.06 watts, less than 10 percent of what a conven- tional electric bulb uses. It also produces a lot less heat, reducing the risk of Photo courtesy of Tokinosumika Flower Fantasy Photo courtesy of Metropolis Magazine fire to trees and wooden structures. As an added bonus, recently DECEMBER 4 − DECEMBER 10, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC STRIPES JAPAN 7 it up Japan’s all l id kin’ Japa hol ays ea ne e Sp se r th Light conversation fo During the holiday season, towns and parks across Japan are decked out in beautiful lights. If you are checking out some illuminations, here are some helpful Japanese words and phrases to make the experience even more fun. “Dokode irumineeshon ga mirare masuka?” = Where can I see illuminations? (“irumineeshon” = illumination, “dokode” = where, “mirare” = can see) “Irumineeshon wo mini ikimasen ka?” = Let’s go see illuminations, shall we? The Jewel of Shonan Photo courtesy of Metropolis Magazine (“mini” = to see, “ikimasen ka?” = let’s go, shall we?) “Kirei desu ne?” = It’s beautiful, isn’t it? (“kirei” = beautiful, “desu ne?” = isn’t it?) “Reinboo Burijji ga raitoappu shite masu.” = The Rainbow Bridge is lit up. (“Reinboo Burijji” = Rainbow Bridge, “raitoappu” = light up) “Samui desu ne?” = It is cold, isn’t it? (“samui” = cold) “Konde imasu ne?” = It is crowded, isn’t it? YOKOHAMA MILIGHT – YOKOHAMA MINATO MIRAI FLOWER FANTASY – THE GARDEN OF (“konde” = crowded) ILLUMINATIONS (Kanagawa pref.): ILLUMINATED FLOWERS 2020-2021 “Ashimoto ni kiwo tsukete kudasai.” = Watch your step, please. ADDRESS: East Exit-Minato Mirai (Tochigi pref.): (“ashimoto” = step, “kiwo tsukete” = watch/take care of, “kudasai” = please) Grand Mall Park-Sakura Dori ADDRESS: 607 Hasamacho, Ashikaga, WEBSITE: http://ymm21-illumination.jp/ Tochigi Pref. 329-4216 “Shashin wo tori masho ka?” = Shall I take a picture? ADMISSION: Free https://www.ashikaga.co.jp/ (“tori masho” = will take) n WEBSITE: From 4 p.m. to 11 p.m. flowerfantasy_special2020/jp/ Atatakai koohii wo katte kimasho ka?” = Shall I go buy hot coffee? n Runs through Feb 14, 2021 Adults 1,000 yen Children 500 (“atatakai” = warm, “koohii” = coffee, “katte kimasho” = will go and buy) ADMISSION: yen THE JEWEL OF SHONAN (Kanagawa pref.): “Tanoshikatta desu.” = I enjoyed it. ILLUMINATIONS nNEAR From 4:30 p.m. to 8:30YOU p.m. (9 p.m. on ADDRESS: 2-3-28 Enoshima Fujisawa, Kanagawa Pref. 251-0036 weekends) WHEN ON OKINAWA n Runs through Feb. 7, 2021 WEBSITE: https://enoshima-seacandle.com/event/ You can also say it in “Uchinaaguchi” (island dialect) like this: shonannohoseki/ *Please follow base guidelines set by your command “Churasan yaa?” = It is beautiful, isn’t it? ADMISSION: Prices vary by attraction from 200 yen per if, and when, you decide to travel. Locations above “Umusatan.” = I enjoyed it. adult/100 yen per child up to 800 yen per adult/350 require temperature checks, face masks, and adhere - Takahiro Takiguchi, Stripes Japan yen per child. Group prices, one day passes available. to social-distancing practices. n From 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. Pronunciation key: “A” is short (like “ah”); “E” is short (like “get”); “I” is short n Runs through Mar. 7, 2021 (like “it”); “O” is long (like “old”); “U” is long (like “tube”); and “AI” is a long With information from Metropolis Japan. “I” (like “hike”). Most words are pronounced with equal emphasis on each syllable, but “OU” is a long “O” with emphasis on that syllable.

developed blue and white LEDs al- illuminations is to create elaborate illu- million LED lights in synch with music. they are great for maintaining social dis- low for more diverse and creative sions by combing different LED lights Luckily, for those not yet ready to in- tancing guidelines while still allowing displays. with high-tech 3-D projection mapping, vest in millions of LEDs and laser lights your family to enjoy one of the holiday for their front yard, most of the public il- season favorites safely. There are many While the home illuminations are according to Nishimura. luminations are free and easy to access to visit within a short drive from your growing, public light displays become While Kanucha Resort Stardest Fan- by public transportation. However, while base. Below are a few good options near more sophisticated every year, introduc- tasia in Okinawa will display 1 million a few may run until late February, most some of the bases in Japan. Stay safe and ing visual and sound effects. LED lights, Sagamino Illumination in end after Christmas or New Year’s. happy holidays! The recent trend in public Kanagawa Prefecture will display 6 Many of these are held outdoors, so [email protected] 8 STRIPES JAPAN A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC DECEMBER 4 − DECEMBER 10, 2020

RYUZU FALLS Exploring Nikko’s beauty and history

STORY AND PHOTOS BY SARAH B. HODGE, STRIPES JAPAN

sacred site for both Shinto and Bud- dhists since the 8th century, Nikko is Ahome to a number of UNESCO World Heritage temples and shrines and gorgeous nature. To arrive in Nikko, the two main rail- ways are Tobu Nikko (which departs from Tobu Asakusa Station), and JR. The JR Nikko Station was built by none other than a young MIZARU, IWAZARU AND KIKAZARU Frank Lloyd Wright in 1890 and is the oldest over three complexes. JR East wooden train station in operation. In addition Both Futarasan Shrine and Rinnoji Temple date to to the train station at Nikko, Wright and his disciples the 8th century and are dedicated to Nikko’s three sa- FUTARASAN SHRINE built 14 buildings around Japan including schools and cred mountains, Mt. Nantai, Mt. Nyoho, and Mt. Taro. residences, although only a few have sur- Nature worship, or shugendo, dates back to ancient vived, notably the façade and lobby of the times and is still practiced today. Nikko Toshogu is an 1922 Imperial Hotel now located at Meiji ornate Shinto shrine established in 1617 to enshrine Mura in Inuyama (https://www.mei- Tokugawa Ieyasu, the first shogun of the Tokugawa jimura.com/english). shogunate. Sculptor Hidari Jingoro was responsible Nikko’s shrines and temples (literally singlehandedly so) for many of the shrine’s consist of 103 structures spread intricate carvings, including the nemurineko (sleeping

GOSHUINCHO

LAKE CHUZENJI DECEMBER 4 − DECEMBER 10, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC STRIPES JAPAN 9

Lake Chuzenji area Lake Chuzenji was created by an eruption of Mt. Nantai around 20,000 years ago and its forested shores are mostly undeveloped with the exception of Chuzenjiko Onsen. Two gems that I finally got to explore were the British and Italian Embas- sy villas on the shores of Lake Chuzenji. Ernest Satow, a British diplomat active in Japan’s Meiji Restoration, built a private villa on the south bank of the Lake Chuzenji in 1896. The villa was used as the British Embassy summer residence until 2008 before being donated to in 2010, when it was opened to the general public. The BRITISH EMBASSY British Embassy Villa Memo- rial Park presents exhibitions on British culture and Oku-Nikko’s summer resort history. Visitors can enjoy an afternoon tea and scone set approved by the current British ambas- sador to Japan while enjoying the breath- taking views of Lake Chuzenji. The nearby Italian embassy villa was built in 1928, and its unique cedar bark exterior looks like it would be equally at home in the forests of Northern Michigan. The first floor of the main residence, mainly used by ambassadors and their families, is a single room incorporating a dining space and a study, each furnished with stove, and a living area in the middle. Period furnishings and table- ware have been preserved, and you can enjoy Italian coffee at the small first-floor café. Home to 48 waterfalls, Kegon is the best- known. With an impressive 97-meter drop, the Exploring Nikko’s falls are fed by water from Lake Chuzenji. You can view the falls from a free observa- NIKKO tion deck at the top, or ride a special el- evator to a lower vantage point. The falls freeze over in winter and are a popular fall color destination as well. Nearby beauty and history Ryuzu (Dragon’s Head) Falls, located on T Yukawa River, is particularly beautiful o flanked by autumn foliage from late Octo- cat), the three monkeys depicting c h . ber to early November. Yudaki (alternately see no evil, speak no evil, hear no i ef gi Pr spelled Yutaki) Falls on Lake Yunoko features evil (mizaru, iwazaru and kikazaru), a spectacular 70m branched waterfall. as well as the two dragon carvings at the Hangetsuyama and Akechidaira Ropeway offer superb karamon in Ueno Tōshō-gu, Tokyo. views over Lake Chuzenji, particularly in autumn, while Nearby Shinkyo Bridge is said to be the Yumoto Onsen is a hot spring resort located in the nation- spot where the river god created a snake al park. Tendai-sect Chuzenji Temple offers superb views bridge across the Daiya River so the first over the lake as well as several important artworks. priest could ascend Mt. Nantai. For many To access the Lake Chuzenji area, purchase a Tobu centuries, only Futarasan Shrine pa- Chuzenji Onsen free pass for 2100 yen (children 1050 yen) MIZARU, IWAZARU AND KIKAZARU rishioners and the imperial court could which will give you two days of unlimited bus travel from over three complexes. make the crossing. It’s highly recom- JR Nikko to popular spots like Kegon Falls, Ryuzu Falls, and Both Futarasan Shrine and Rinnoji Temple date to mended to get the temple seal (goshuin) and temple several onsen towns (http://www.tobu-bus.com/en/nikko ). the 8th century and are dedicated to Nikko’s three sa- seal book (goshuincho) at Shinkyo and Futarasan Note: if you or your family are prone to motion sickness, cred mountains, Mt. Nantai, Mt. Nyoho, and Mt. Taro. Shrine; the book features a beautiful gold-embroi- it’s a very good idea to take Dramamine before the ride as Nature worship, or shugendo, dates back to ancient dered image of Shinkyo Bridge and Mt. Nantai in the there are two dozen hairpin curves to reach the top of road times and is still practiced today. Nikko Toshogu is an background. and another 24 going down. The road (Iroha-zaka) is named ornate Shinto shrine established in 1617 to enshrine Nikko has been a popular tourist destination since Tokugawa Ieyasu, the first shogun of the Tokugawa the 19th century, and one of these Meiji-era resort ho- after a poem that contains the 48 syllables of the Japanese shogunate. Sculptor Hidari Jingoro was responsible tels still proudly carries on the tradition. The Kanaya alphabet, with each curve representing (literally singlehandedly so) for many of the shrine’s one syllable. intricate carvings, including the nemurineko (sleeping SEE NIKKO ON PAGE 10

KEGON FALLS 10 STRIPES JAPAN A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC DECEMBER 4 − DECEMBER 10, 2020

Into the abyss Kanmangafuchi Abyss features around 70 stone statues of Jizo, a

Bodhisattva who is a protector of

travelers, pilgrims, and children. a

The jizo lining Kanmangafuchi S

Abyss are called “Bake Jizo” (Ghost m Jizo), “Narabi Jizo” (Jizo in a line) o or “Hyaku Jizo” (100 Jizo). Legend

has it that if you count the jizo in one a direction, the number will change on k your walk back; you will never count t the same number twice! a i a S S e Nikko Goodwill Guides Nikko Goodwill Guides: n n http://u-sgg.com/ b i Outstanding local guides will take you e n around Nikko and Oku-Nikko free of i e charge (you are expected to pay for G d BAKE JIZO(KANMANGAFUCHI) r the guide’s transportation costs and a lunch). NIKKO: Travel and enjoy the sites in style

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Hotel, Japan’s oldest resort hotel opened in 1873, retains the charm of yesteryear and is a Registered Tangible Cultural Property. Its notable guests have included multiple heads of state as well as Frank Lloyd Wright, Charles Lindbergh, Helen Keller, and Albert Einstein. The hotel is a stone’s throw from Shinkyo Bridge and makes an ideal starting point for exploring Nikko’s World Heritage sights. The Kanaya restaurant and café serve dishes steeped in his- tory like the “Hundred-year Curry,” based on a Taisho Era recipe, and the wood-paneled Bar Dacite has over 200 kinds of single malt whiskey. Another great lodging choice is Nikko Akarinoyado Villa Revage (https://nikkoakarinoyadovillarevage.book.direct/) run by friend- ly Kono-san and his son. There are eight basic Western-style twin rooms and one Japanese-style room that sleeps 2 – 4 (all guest rooms are on the second floor). The fantastic breakfasts and dinners (make sure to reserve at time of booking) and three unique private onsens, plus the fact that the owners will be happy to give you recommenda- tions or a ride (limited parking is available if you will be driving), make this a great choice. Tamozawa Imperial Villa was the summer resort of the Imperi- al Family and blends traditional Edo and early modern Meiji Period architecture. The DINNER NIKKO AKARINOYADO 106-room wooden villa was constructed for Prince Yoshi- hito (later Emperor Taisho) as a retreat in 1899 using parts of a Tokugawa family residence that originally stood in Tokyo. The cur- rent building is only one-third of its original size, but remains one of the largest original wooden structures in Japan. The furnishings reflect a blend of Japanese and Western design, including parquet floors, carpeting and chandeliers. While in Nikko, why not rent a yukata (summer only) or kimono and have a commemorative photo taken in front of the Shinkyo Bridge or historic shrines? In addition to kimono rental and dress- ing, Cocon Nikko (https://www.kimono-cocon.com/) provides a photography service to help you commemorate your trip to Nikko. One of Nikko’s most famous local products is its soymilk skin, yuba, which is a staple in Buddhist devotional cuisine (shojin ry- ori). Many local restaurants feature yuba, including the excellent yuba-don at scenic Gyoshintei. Tucked away from the bustle of Toshogu Shrine, the beautiful wooded setting seems straight from a fairytale. Website: https://www.meiji-yakata.com/en/gyoshin/ You can also try your hand at making your own fresh yuba at the Nikko Yuba Manufacturing Company (E-mail niizuma@nikkoyu- ba.net). Instruction is Japanese-only and a 30-minute guided tour COCON NIKKO(KIMONO RENTAL) / hands-on experience is available from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Reserva- tions must be made one week in advance.

DECEMBER 4 − DECEMBER 10, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC STRIPES JAPAN 11

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t a i a S S e nMake your very ownin be rice crackern STORY AND PHOTOS BY iSLEIMAN AZIZI, e JAPAN TRAVEL Gard ADDRESS: 790-2 Kinmeicho, ou would be forgiven Soka City, Saitama Pref., for thinking that 340-0052. Yrice crackers were the Parking available. ninja of Japanese food. Hiding TEL: 048-942-1000 in plain sight in literally every URL: www.yamakosenbei. kitchen, store and duty-free co.jp/?page_id=91 shop around the country, senbei HOURS: Everyday 10 a.m. to are the masters of concealment. 6 p.m. (last order at café If you ever wanted a spy, you 5:30 p.m.) could do worse than hire a rice *Call ahead for reservations cracker. for the rice cracker- From its popular origins, the making experience. ubiquitous rice cracker has re- mained, well, humble. As one GETTING THERE of the country’s quintessential Take the DO YOU HAVE A STORY TO SHARE? souvenirs, senbei are given to to Shinden Station. From and received by pretty much the West Exit walk straight everyone. It’s curious that more ahead, then turn left at the IF SO, LOG ON TO intersection and continue fuss isn’t made over them. until you reach the traffic Senbei originated as a snack lights. Turn right and walk during the Edo period, easy to STRIPESJAPAN.COM along Route 328 until you make and carry, and became a reach the third set of traffic big hit. Travelers along Japan’s lights, and it will be on Nikko Kaido route would stop at the right. All up, about a Soka, one of the many way sta- 9-minute walk. tions back in those days, pick up some of the town’s senbei, and head off to wherever they with children, for JPY500, you were heading off to. can have your turn at making Back then, senbei were a couple of senbei. The store baked or grilled over charcoal also stocks about 100 varieties and brushed of senbei, from with . traditional soy They became sauce crackers so popular that to more mod- Soka became ern flavours synonymous with senbei - to like curry, mentaiko pollock this day, Soka senbei is still the roe, prawn and more. You can city’s nom de guerre. even try some senbei flavoured One store where you can get soft-creams and donuts. a hands-on experience mak- Yes, that’s right, soft-cream ing senbei is at Soka Senbei and donuts. Those canny ninja Garden in Soka City. Great senbei, they’re everywhere. 12 STRIPES JAPAN A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC DECEMBER 4 − DECEMBER 10, 2020 Ginzan Onsen Guide What to do in Japan’s fabled hot spring village

C o ur te sy p ho tos F ile ph oto Ginzan Onsen town: One of Yamagata’s best onsen villages Ginzan Onsen itinerary: Rec- Located in the northern part of Japan, Ginzan Onsen is in Yamagata Prefecture in the Tohoku area, facing the ommended hot springs, foot Sea of Japan. spas, dining and more Yamagata itself is dotted with onsen, with pretty much Five minutes away from Ginzan Onsen bus stop by every town and village having at least one. Amongst foot, right at the entrance to the onsen town, is Shiro- these, Ginzan Onsen in Obanazawa City is especially fa- gane-bashi Bridge, and right next to it is “Warashiyu”, a mous. Editor’s Note: When you travel, please prac- free foot spa and popular tourist attraction. Built between the 1920s and 1930s, the numerous tice preventative measures at all times in- The waters used in this foot spa come from the same wooden structures of the ryokan constructed there were cluding wearing a facemask, social distanc- source that is used at all the onsens there, allowing you joined up, forming the onsen town it is today, with count- ing and washing/sanitizing your hands often. to enjoy the same waters. less visitors from far and wide across Japan. Follow guidelines set by your base command. As the foot spa is located outdoors, the temperature One of the main draws of Ginzan Onsen is its struc- of the spa can vary wildly with the weather. Particularly ture and atmosphere; walking through it makes you feel LIVE JAPAN in hot summers, the temperature of the foot spa can rise as though you’ve walked through a time slip and gone considerably, so it’s best to test it out with your hand back in time. inzan Onsen is one of Japan’s most before taking a full soak with your feet. The “town” of Ginzan Onsen is very compact, and it popular onsen towns, nestled among takes just five minutes to walk from end to end of this Gthe scenic mountains of Yamagata’s Warashiyu street of onsen. You can enjoy the rich atmosphere of the Obanazawa City. It is the go-to hot springs A ryokan, while enjoying famous gourmet delicacies. town for the people of the Tohoku region and a 和楽足湯 Built along a crystal-clear river, the traditional Japa- growing destination for visitors from abroad, ADDRESS: Ginzanshinhata, Obanazawa Shi, Yamagata nese ryokan inns there are over a hundred years old, and who adore its nostalgic atmosphere. Pref., 999-4333 the rows of wooden buildings give the place a charming Join as we step inside Ginzan Onsen, where PHONE: 0237-28-3933 (Ginzan Onsen Tourist Information atmosphere. you can experience the extraordinary! Center) Both sides of the Ginzan-gawa River are lined with HOURS: Free bathing neat rows of wooden ryokan. Between the gas lamp-lit PRICE: Free street at twilight, and the snow along the tiles lining the CLOSED: Open daily pavement, this is a view that you can’t tear your eyes away from, and its stark contrast with the modern build- For those who prefer a full hot spring experience, ings and structures of today is where the beauty of this “Kyoudouyokujo Shirogane Yu” is the place to go. The place lies. unique triangular shape of the building is designed by A B the famed architect Kuma Kengo. C The bath itself is large, allowing four to five people Winter is the best season to visit E to enter at the same time. The waters used here come Ginzan Onsen directly from the source of the hot springs. Even though F Ginzan River Ginzan Onsen is especially beautiful in winter. Dur- Ginzan Onsen there aren’t services in other languages, the place is still ing the winter nights, you can walk the streets of the area regularly frequented by foreign visitors. Though shampoo and body soap are provided, towels onsen town along pavements lined in the whitest snow, H aren’t available, so you should either bring your own, or and with the gentle lighting of the gas lamps, the view G D buy one from one of the souvenir shops along the street. is stunning and dramatic. There are many people who plan their trips there during the peak travel season to see snow. Kyoudouyokujo Shiroganeyu B Yamagata 共同浴場しろがね湯 Things to do in Ginzan Onsen Pref. ADDRESS: 433, Ginzanshinhata, Obanazawa Shi, Yamagata Pref., 999-4333 The most enjoyable activity, by far, is exploring Tokyo PHONE: 0237-28-3933 (Ginzan Onsen Tourist Information Ginzan Onsen town itself. Taking pictures along the Center) street with snowfall is another excellent activity as well. HOURS: 8 a.m. - 5 p.m. (last reception is 4:30 p.m.) As Ginzan Onsen is situated in the mountain range, it PRICE: 500 yen, elementary school students 200 yen gets pretty dark by 6:00 p.m., and the best time to take CLOSED: Irregular holidays pictures there is at sunset. From to Ginzan Onsen Besides this, “yukimi furo,” an outdoor hot spring From Tokyo Station to Ginzan Onsen, take that allows you to enjoy the snow while taking a soak, is the “Tsubasa” along the JR Ya- a must-try of Japanese culture. It’s not easy to get res- magata Shinkansen line. Get off at Oishida Walk around Ginzan Onsen in a ervations for a “rotenburo,” an outdoor hot spring, so Station, and change to a route bus, which will when you do, be sure to make good use of the opportuni- bring you straight to Ginzan Onsen. The to- rental kimono ty to take a relaxing soak and enjoy the beautiful winter tal trip from Tokyo Station to Ginzan Onsen Popular not just amongst the Japanese, but foreign atmosphere. takes a little over 4 hours. visitors as well, is the kimono and hakama rental shop, There is another draw for tourists to the Ginzan On- As there are only five buses per day along Airasugena. sen in winter, and that is the snow. The onsen is situated that route, be very sure to check the bus timings Despite the lack of foreign language services, there in a place known for heavy snowfall, and it starts snow- before setting off to ensure a smooth journey. are many foreign visitors on tour groups who patron- ing at the beginning of December. However, the heaviest If you’re flying in instead, you can land in ize the shop. There are kimono and hakama, traditional snowfall occurs in January and February and continues Yamagata Airport. It takes one hour and fif- Japanese pants, with a wide variety of colors and prints till mid-March. As snowfall exceeding one meter is com- teen minutes to reach Ginzan Onsen by bus. available, and you’ll be absolutely spoilt for choice. mon, be sure to dress warmly and wear anti-slip shoes. Picking the matching pieces is great fun too, DECEMBER 4 − DECEMBER 10, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC STRIPES JAPAN 13

and you can rent bags, umbrellas, and other End your trip at Shirogane-no-Taki Falls! accessories. Kimono for males are available as well, making this a great experience for couples. In the innermost part of this town is Shirogane-koen Though wearing kimono is often seen as a difficult Park, which features a 22-meter-tall waterfall, Shiro- and arduous task, there are services to help you put gane-no-Taki Falls, a popular tourist attraction. on the kimono as well, so you can rest easy on that. About halfway down the falls, the stream splits into Deck yourself in one of Japan’s representative outfits, two, with a rapid, bubbling waterfall splashing down on and take pictures as you stroll down this onsen town for one side, and a gentle stream flowing down on the other. memories of an unforgettable journey. There is an observation deck along the shore facing the waterfall, and if you follow the designated walking Airasugena A path, it feels like you’re getting closer and closer to the C waterfall. あいらすげーな With trees and other plants surrounding the falls, ADDRESS: 438, Ginzanshinhata, Obanazawa Shi, their leaves are bright green in spring and summer, Yamagata Pref., 999-4333 come ablaze in red in autumn, and melt into a scene PHONE: 0237-28-2811 HOURS: 9 a.m. - 4 p.m. right out of a traditional Japanese painting in winter. PRICE: 2000 yen for transformation course (60 min- With changing views that you can enjoy all year round, utes), 500 yen added for every 30 minutes extension no matter when you go, it’ll definitely be a breathtaking CLOSED: Irregular holidays (closed in winter) sight to behold.

Where to stay: Must-try foods Recommended Ginzan Onsen ryokan In onsen towns, it’s not just the ryokan that are fa- There are 13 ryokan available in Ginzan Onsen, in- mous, but the eateries and restaurants too. Famous even cluding “Notoya Ryokan”, “Dento-no-yado Kozankaku”, amongst these shops is the , at 210 yen, from and “Ryokan Nasawa Heihachi”, as well as ryokan that Haikarasan-dori Street. C allow you to just rent the onsen too. The bread is made using “Nebarigoshi” wheat pro- The price of your stay in Ginzan Onsen depends duced in Yamagata prefecture, which is filled with curry, largely on the grade of the ryokan you’re staying in too, then fried. The outside is crispy and crunchy, while the and the price per night can range anywhere from 16,000 inside is soft with a -like consistency. yen to 25,000 yen. The bread is filled well with curry, and the spicy after- Even amongst these onsen, they each have their own taste is delicious. It often gets sold out by evening, so be unique features. For example, “Notoya Ryokan” is some- sure to reach the store early for a bite of this tasty snack. thing of a symbol in Ginzan Onsen, and its structure is a registered Tangible Cultural Property of Japan. The Haikarasandori D building has a plaster relief finished in lacquer, so be はいからさん通り sure to check that out! ADDRESS: 451, Ginzanshinhata, Obanazawa Shi, Besides this, “Ryokan Fujiya” and the new building of Yamagata Pref., 999-4333 Kozankaku, “Kuranoba”, are one of the very few Ginzan PHONE: 0237-28-3888 Onsen ryokan that provide beds in their lodging, instead HOURS: 8 a.m. - 6 p.m. (subject to change in winter) D of only futons. PRICE: Curry bread 210 yen CLOSED: Open daily Notoya Ryokan G 能登屋旅館 Besides curry bread, there’s another old shop with ADDRESS: 446, Ginzanshinhata, Obanazawa-shi, over a hundred years of history, the shop “Nogawa Yamagata Pref., 999-4333 Tofuya”, famous for their “Tachi-kui Tofu” at 170 yen. NEAREST STATION: Oishida Station (Ou Line / Yamagata The tofu is freshly handmade every morning, and the Shinkansen), 40 minutes by bus rich flavor and soft texture of the tofu are highly praised PHONE: 0237-28-2327 by customers. This shop only provides takeout, but you can enjoy the tofu at the rest point “Warashiyu” just next F door. Ryokan Fujiya H 旅館 藤屋 Nogawa Tofuya E ADDRESS: 443, Ginzanshinhata, Obanazawa-shi, 野川とうふや Yamagata Pref., 999-4333 PHONE: 0237-28-2141 NEAREST STATION: Oishida Station (Ou Line / Yamagata ADDRESS: 427, Ginzanshinhata, Obanazawa Shi, Shinkansen), 40 minutes by bus Yamagata Pref., 999-4333 PHONE: 0237-28-2494 Hours: 7:00am-Ends when sold out PRICE: Standing tofu 170 yen Ginzan Onsen weather: CLOSED: Irregular holidays Beautiful in every season Though the Ginzan Onsen area is most popular in winter, you can definitely enjoy beautiful scenery here G all throughout the year. Where to go for lunch Even amidst the intense heat of Japan’s summer, For lunchtime, head down to the restaurant “Izu-no- Ginzan Onsen is located deep in the mountains, making Hana” for some . You can have some “Agenasu Oro- it comparatively cooler, and more suitable for exploring shisoba”, soba with a generous helping of fried eggplant and strolling. on top, for 1200 yen (without tax), or an extra-large serv- On Saturday nights from May to October, you can hear ing of Yamagata Prefecture’s famous dish, “Itasoba”, for voices calling out “yassho, massho” as dancers keep to 1500 yen (without tax) for 1.5 times larger serving, or the the rhythm of the “Hanagasa Odori”, a traditional dance “Tenzaru Soba”, soba with fried prawns and vegetables, in Yamagata. The performance starts at 8:30 p.m., and for 1950 yen (without tax). You can also try the region- lasts for approximately 20 minutes. For those who would ally exclusive “Soba Soft Cream” for 380 yen (without like to see a cultural experience that is only available in tax), making it the perfect place for tea time too. Yamagata, be sure not to miss this! The menu also includes , rice bowls, and tem- There are three areas in the onsen town with free pura, on top of the soba items we recommended. You can Wi-Fi, allowing you to connect for up to 60 minutes at a also try some alcohol from Yamagata prefecture too. time, three times a day. Several of the ryokan are com- pletely outfitted with Wi-Fi as well. Though few of the Izunohana F shops provide services in foreign languages, the “Ginza 伊豆の華 Onsen Sightseeing Map” available at the entrance to the ADDRESS: 440, Ginzanshinhata, Obanazawa Shi, onsen town can be found in foreign languages. The por- Yamagata Pref., 999-4333 table voice and audio translation device “ili” is available PHONE: 0237-28-2036 for rental too, so feel free to borrow one for your visit. HOURS: 11a.m. - 10 p.m. (Lunch is up to 2:30 p.m., Cafe is from 2:30 p.m. to 6 p.m., Dinner is from 6 p.m.) Ginzan Onsen PRICE: Fried eggplant grated soba 1200 yen s 銀山温泉 S all REGULAR HOLIDAY: Wednesday (there is a temporary hir i F ogane-no-Tak ADDRESS: Ginzanshinhata, Obanazawa Shi, holiday) Yamagata Pref., 999-4333 14 STRIPES JAPAN A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC DECEMBER 4 − DECEMBER 10, 2020

Tasty treats for a good cause Special Olympics bake sale Dec. 9 at Yokota

STORY AND PHOTO BY KPSO understanding, acceptance and inclusion among people ake plans to support with and without intellectual the Kanto Plains Spe- M cial Olympics at their disabilities. bake sale fundraiser at Yokota For more Information for do- AB on Dec. 9. nations and registering as an Delicious baked goods will athlete, email KPSO.Officials@ be on sale from 10 a.m. to 2 gmail.com or visit our FB page p.m. at the base YCC. KPSO is a local organization at: https://m.facebook.com/ WHAT IS HAPPENING ON YOUR BASE? that changes lives by promoting KPSOatYokotaAB/. STRIPESJAPAN.COM Speakin’ Japanese Winter travel As you travel this winter season, here are some useful Japanese phrases to help you along the way.

“Samui desu, ne?” = It is cold, isn’t stomachache. it? “Netsu ga arimasu.” = I have a fever. “Atatakai desu, ne?” = It is warm, “Seki ga demasu.” = I have a cough. isn’t it? “Kaze wo hikimashita.” = I caught “Atsui desu, ne?” = It is hot, isn’t it? a cold. These expressions are often used Tokyo eki wa doko desuka? with “Ohayo Gozaimasu” (good (Where is Tokyo Station?) morning), “Konnichiwa” (good “… wa doko desuka?” = Where is ... afternoon) or “Konbanwa” (good • Byouin wa dokodesuka? (Where is evening). “Desu, ne?” = it is, isn’t it? a hospital?) • Koban wa dokodesuka? (Where is “Yuki ga furisou desu.” = It looks like a police station?) it is going to snow. • Toire wa dokodsuka? (Where is a “… sou desu” = looks like going to bathroom?) be … Eki made donokurai kakarimasuka? These phrases are also used in daily (How long does it take to the sta- conversations: tion?) “Ame ga furisou desu.” = It looks like “made donokurai kakarimasuka?” = it is going to rain. How long does it take to ... “Hare sou desu.” = It looks like • Kyanpu Foster made donokurai going to be fine. kakarimasuka? (How long does it “Yoi otenki desu.” = It is a beautiful take to Foster military base?) day. • Kuuko made donokurai kakarima- “Atama ga itai desu.” = I have a suka? (How long does it take to an headache. airport?) “… ga itai desu” = “I have an ache/ pain in …” Mayoimashita. (I am lost.) When you have to see a doctor, • Michi ga wakarimasen. you can use some of the following (I don’t know the way.) phrases: “Nodo ga itai desu.” = My throat • Basho ga wakarimasen. hurts. (I don’t know where it is.) “Onaka ga itai desu.” = I have a - Takahiro Takiguchi, Stripes Japan

Pronunciation key: “A” is short (like “ah”); “E” is short (like “get”); “I” is short (like “it”); “O” is long (like “old”); “U” is long (like “tube”); and “AI” is a long “I” (like “hike”). Most words are pronounced with equal emphasis on each syllable, but “OU” is a long “O” with emphasis on that syllable. DECEMBER 4 − DECEMBER 10, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC STRIPES JAPAN 15

OPTION PLAY: Back in the day, Tiger Woods was as good as it got. His domination was unrivaled by just about any athlete. And, in 2000, Tiger let out one of his biggest roars with a huge win at The U.S. Open. By how many strokes did Tiger beat his next closest competitor? A. 8 B. 15 C. 10 D. 12

Stripes Sports TriviaB.15

Answer Week of 11/30/20 - 12/6/20

The Weekly Crossword by Margie E. Burke ACROSS 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 Deeply absorbed 1 14 15 16 5 Month of showers 17 18 19 10 Start of a 20 21 22 23 Steinbeck title 14 Square feet, eg. 24 25 26 27 15 Unmanned flier 28 29 30 DID YOU 16 Caesar's 17 17 Courtroom group 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 KNOW? 18 Personal value 20 Copious 38 39 40 41 42 22 "Get it?" 43 44 45 46 47 23 Audacity apan has hosted the Olympics 24 No-good sort 48 49 50 51 three times in the history – To- 26 Hire, as a boat 52 53 54 55 kyo (summer) in 1964, Sapporo 28 Production 56 57 58 59 60 61 J(winter) in 1972 and Nagano (winter) excess 30 Alpine lake in 1998. And, as you know, Tokyo was 62 63 64 65 31 Tight spot chosen to host the 2020 Summer Games, 32 Formerly 66 67 68 but due to COVID-19, the games will be 34 Simple shelter 69 70 71 held in 2021. Tokyo was also chosen as 38 Skedaddled the site for the 1940 summer games, but 40 Word with pot Copyright 2020 by The Puzzle Syndicate those, along with the 1944 games, never or beer happened because of World War II. 42 Hold on property 2 Calla's cousin 39 Handyman's roll 53 Athletic venue 43 Turn on the 3 Bewildered 41 Famed pianist 54 M*A*S*H role charm 4 Pop star Swift 44 Blubbered 58 Parched 45 Italian import 5 Classifieds 46 Mermaid feature 60 20-20, e.g. 47 1942 flick "My 6 Attendance 49 Taurus follower 61 Split ___ Sal" 7 Thespian's 51 Egyptian beetle 63 Kind of rule 48 Jagged peak quest 52 Baddest of the 64 Spy novelist 50 With audacity 8 Contaminate, in bad Deighton Kanji of 52 1941-45, for the a way U.S. 9 Wranglers alter- 55 Decree native the week Ike (Pond) 池 56 Be bombastic 10 On the outside 57 Spring mo. 11 Turn away 59 Informal farewell 12 Kitchen strainer Answers to Last Week's Crossword: 62 Species of 13 Darkroom C Y C L E S T U D C A S H Language Lesson butterfly accessory H O O E Y H O S E A L T O 65 Tear apart 19 Animal catcher E R A S E I T E M S L I M 66 Become 21 Continental coin N E L S P R E D E S T I N E unhinged 25 Mixmaster maker M E R I T S T I N G Y Where are the [eggs]? 67 Chilled 27 Nautical rope S P I N E T M A N O R 68 "I'll second that!" 28 Does in, mob- T I N M A R I N E C O R P S 69 Weight deduc- style O P E R A A N T K N E E L Week of 11/30/20 - 12/6/20 tion 29 Offensive P E R E S T R O I K A T E E 70 Veep after 33 Will Ferrell title S T E E R E D W A R D Tamago wa doko desuka? Cheney role of 2003 S C R E E N C R E E L 71 Give in 35 From dusk to P R O T R A C T O R A I D S dawn O U S T B O R N B L A R E DOWN 36 Blue hue K E E L L A I D A T T A R 1 Indian royal 37 Nothing but E L S E E L M O T H E T A

SUDOKU Edited by Margie E. Burke Difficulty: Easy HOW TO SOLVE: 6 1 4 Each row must contain the numbers 1 to 9; each column must contain the numbers 1 to 9; and 3 1 7 2 each set of 3 by 3 boxes must 5 9 6 contain the numbers 1 to 9. Answers to Last Week’s Sudoku: 9 6 4 1 7 5 9 6 3 8 2 2 7 8 5 6 3 5 8 2 1 4 7 9 9 8 2 7 4 3 5 1 6 1 3 1 4 3 9 6 2 8 5 7 4 8 2 5 6 3 7 8 1 9 4 7 9 8 1 5 4 6 2 3 1 9 3 3 2 1 4 8 9 7 6 5 5 8 9 8 7 9 6 3 5 2 4 1 Copyright 2020 by The Puzzle Syndicate 5 6 4 2 1 7 9 3 8

16 STRIPES JAPAN A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC DECEMBER 4 − DECEMBER 10, 2020 Is Japanese food always healthy?! Osaka’s deep-fried specialty

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f you love Japanese food, but can’t make it to Osaka soon enough, then it’s time to make some of their I specialty dishes at home! One of Osaka’s most fa- mous dishes is kushikatsu, a delicious deep-fried treat like you’ve never seen. Today, a pro will show us how to make it from the comfort of our own homes. Kushikatsu is a dish of meat, seafood, and vegetable dipped in batter (flour and bread crumbs) and fried in oil. It is an Osaka specialty, centered around Osa- ka’s Shinsekai. There are two main types of kushikatsu Today, the head chef of Kush- in Osaka. The first is your typical dish of familiar ingre- iage Kazuya in Kita-Shinsekai, dients, fried and eaten dipped in a thick, Japanese-style Osaka, Mr. Takahito Kato, will Worcester-based sauce that is made at each shop. The show us how to make your other type uses more high-quality ingredients with more standard kushikatsu dish. creative toppings and sauces.

The ingredients usually include beef, pork, shrimp, salmon, onions, and mushrooms. Additionally, Ingredients you can also use your own favorite meat, fish, or vegetables. The batter is made of 75g flour, 0.3g baking powder, 120ml water, 10g nagaimo (yam), and panko & bread crumbs for coating. For the sauce, prepare 45ml Japanese Worcester sauce, 45ml , 10ml Directions soy sauce, and 5ml . The Japanese Worcester sauce can be substituted with 25g ketchup, 10ml soy sauce, 5ml lemon juice, 10ml apple juice, and a dash of pepper, combined and heated together.

First, let’s make the sauce. It’s quite easy. Com- 1 bine the sauce ingredients, heat, bring to a boil, *Note: Japanese Worcester sauce is then let it cool. You can enhance the flavor by sometimes called “ sauce” adding the mirin first and skipping the alcohol. abroad and is different from the thin, If you don’t have mirin, you can substitute white British, . wine and sugar (white wine to sugar ratio, 3:1). It will taste just as delicious, even if you use white wine instead of Japanese sake! Easy to make! Just your favorite foods, and fry! 2 5 Next, cut each ingredient to the desired size, and After coating in batter, add the bread crumbs. skewer. For the shrimp, it is best to pierce the Make sure the bread crumbs are fine enough to skewer through the shell, creating an S-shape. lightly cover the entire surface.

Once your ingredients are covered in batter, 3 Next, make the batter that holds the ingredi- 6 it’s time to fry them. Add a generous amount of ents and the bread crumbs together. Combine oil into a pan or a fryer, heat to around 180ºC, flour, baking powder, grated nagaimo (yam), and then add your ingredients. Be sure to turn and water, and mix until thick. If you don’t have over the ingredients occasionally so that they fry nagaimo, you can use another thickening agent evenly. Remove ingredients from the oil when such as yam powder, taro, cornstarch, or tapioca they have floated to the top and reached a golden powder. brown color. It should take about 3 minutes for meats and 2 minutes for vegetables and seafood. 7 After removing your food from the oil, hold 4 Once you make the batter, dip in each ingredi- them over a dish to drain any excess oil. Hold ent. Lightly coat the surface with the batter. It skewers from the top, with the ingredients at will have a light texture and a crisp finish. Be the bottom, and rotate them vigorously, using careful not to cover it in too much batter. Oth- the centrifugal force to remove remaining oil. erwise, you risk having it absorb too much oil, Discarding the excess allows you to enjoy a leaving a greasy taste in your mouth. lighter texture, and eat a lot more without wor- rying about getting an upset stomach.

Crispy batter and delicious sauce, you won’t want to stop eating! Kushikatsu is easy to make at home by frying your favorite ingredients. However, professional kushikatsu is made with special attention to how it is coated in the batter as Hold the skewer from the top of the stick, and immerse the ingredients into your well as how it is fried. In Osaka, you can find many different combinations of ingredients, homemade sauce. The sauce adds a savory finish to the taste with the sweetness including dessert-style skewers of fried ice cream puffs and bananas. Once the coronavi- of the mirin and the richness of the Worcester sauce. The thin batter adds a crisp rus outbreak has settled, feel free to visit Osaka, and try these various skewered texture to the plump body of the shrimp. If you eat only the ku- dishes for yourself. shikatsu on their own, you may get an oily feeling in your Today’s kushikatsu instructions are courtesy of Kushiage Kazuya mouth. You may want to prepare KUSHIAGE KAZUYA some raw, thinly sliced cabbage, Address: Ripple MAX Building 1F, 1-3-29 Sonezaki Shin- which you can use to rest your Time to chi, Kita-ku, Osaka City 530-0002 chopsticks, and enjoy eating Nearest Station: 5-minute walk from JR/Hanshin/Hankyu dig in! with the sauce. With this, you Osaka Station; Osaka Metro Umeda Station can get rid of the oily feeling Phone Number: 06-6348-1138 in your mouth, and enjoy even Hours: 11:30 a.m. - 2:30 p.m. (Last order at 2 p.m.); 6 more kushikatsu! It’s healthy if there’s a vegeta- p.m. - 4 a.m. the following morning (Last order at ble, right?! 3:30 a.m.); bar time is from 10:30 p.m.; Last order for Set a pot on the table, gather your favorite in- kushiage is 9 p.m. gredients, and fry them yourself, enjoying your own Closed: Sundays kushikatsu party in your own home!