RESTAURANT ANDRE wine journal

1 wine collection ANDRE CHIANG

VOLUME II AUGUST 2016 2 3

41 BUKIT PASOH ROAD SINGAPORE 089855

2016 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED john milton sonnet 17

Lawrence of virtuous father virtuous son, Now that the fields are dank, and ways are mire, Where shall we sometimes meet, and by the fire Help waste a sullen day; what may be won From the hard season gaining: time will run On smoother till Favonius reinspire The frozen earth; and clothe in fresh attire The lily and rose, that neither sowed nor spun. What neat repast shall feast us, light and choice, Of Attic taste, with wine, whence we may rise To hear the lute well touched, or artful voice Warble immortal notes and tuskan air? He who of those delights can judge, and spare 4 To interpose them oft, is not unwise. 5 If food is the body of good living, wine is its soul.” – Clifton Fadiman 6 7 CHAMPAGNE the wine

At its glorious best champagne has no peers. It offers all the elements of a truly great sparkling wine; freshness and vivacity to lift the spirits, complexity of aroma, and richness on the palate balanced by fine acidity. While many wine regions produce good sparkling wine, champagne has a monopoly of the most celebrated brands. With around 300 million bottles produced every year, it is a benchmark by which all other sparkling wines are judged.

the history

The Romans were the first to plant vineyards in this area of northeast France with the region being cultivated by at least the 5th century, possibly earlier.

Wines from the Champagne region were known before medieval times. Churches owned vineyards and monks produced wine for use in the sacrament of Eucharist. French kings were traditionally anointed in Reims and Champagne wine was served as part of coronation festivities. The Champenois were envious of the 8 reputation of the wines made by their Burgundian neighbours to 9 the south and sought to produce wines of equal acclaim. However, the northerly climate of the region gave the Champenois a unique set of challenges in making red wine. At the far extremes of sustainable viticulture, the grapes would struggle to ripen fully and often would have bracing levels of acidity and low sugar levels. The wines would be lighter bodied and thinner than the Burgundy wines they were seeking to outdo.

Contrary to legend and popular belief, Dom Perignon did not invent sparkling wine. The oldest recorded sparkling wine is Blanquette de Limoux, which was apparently invented by Benedictine Monks in the Abbey of Saint Hilaire near Carcassonne in 1531.

Over a century later, the English scientist and physician Christopher Merret documented the addition of sugar to a finished wine to create a second fermentation six years before Dom Perignon set foot in the Abbey of Hautvillers and almost 40 years before it was claimed that the famed Benedictine monk invented Champagne. Laherte Frères ‘Les 7’ Extra-Brut $350 Merret presented the Royal Society with a paper in which Laherte Frères Rosé ‘Ultradition’ Brut $290 he detailed what is now called méthode champenoise in 1662. Tarlant Rosé Brut Nature $340 Although Dom Perignon did not invent Champagne, he did Tarlant ‘BAM’ Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature $590 develop many advances in production of the drink, including holding the cork in place with a wire collar (muselet) to Françoise Bedel ‘Origin’elle’ Brut $280 withstand the fermentation pressure. Françoise Bedel ‘Comme Autrefois’ Brut $360

In France, the first sparkling Champagne was created accidentally; Georges Laval 1er Cu ‘Les Chênes’ Brut Nature $590 its pressure led it to be called “the devil’s wine” (le vin du diable) as bottles exploded or the cork jolted away. Jacques Selosse Grand Cru ‘Initial’ Brut $540 Jacques Selosse Grand Cru ‘Exquise’ Sec $770 Even when it was deliberately produced as a sparkling wine, Jacques Selosse Rosé Brut $840 Champagne was for a very long time made by the méthode rurale, where the wine was bottled before the only fermentation had De Sousa Grand Cru Rosé $490 finished. Champagne did not utilize the méthode champenoise ‘Cuvée des Caudalies’ Brut until the 19th century, approximately 200 years after Christopher Merret documented the process. The 19th century saw an explosive Michel Turgy Grand Cru ‘Vieilles Vignes’ $450 growth in Champagne production going from a regional production Blanc de Blancs Brut of 300,000 bottles a year in 1800 to 20 million bottles in 1850. Michel Turgy Grand Cru ‘Réserve Sélection’ $570 Blanc de Blancs Brut 1500ml In the 19th century Champagne was noticeably sweeter than the Champagne of today. The trend towards drier Champagne began Salon 1997 ‘S’ Brut Blanc de Blancs $1450 when Perrier-Jouët decided not to sweeten his 1846 vintage prior 10 to exporting it to London. The designation Brut Champagne, the Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru ‘Terre de Vertus’ $330 11 modern Champagne, was created for the British in 1876. Blanc de Blancs Non Dosé Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru ‘Les Chemins d’Avize’ $490 Blanc de Blancs Extra-Brut

La Closerie ‘Les Béguines’ Extra-Brut $370 Marie-Courtin ‘Efflorescence’ Blanc de Noirs Extra-Brut $330 Marie-Courtin ‘Résonance’ Blanc de Noirs Extra-Brut $290 Duval-Charpentier Grand Cru ‘Tradition’ Brut $330 Marie-Courtin ‘Concordance’ Blanc de Noirs Extra-Brut $330

David Léclapart ‘L’Amateur’ Blanc de Blancs Extra-Brut $330 Vouette & Sorbée ‘Fidèle’ Blanc de Noirs Extra-Brut $330 David Léclapart ‘L’Artiste’ Blanc de Blancs Extra-Brut $450 Vouette & Sorbée ‘Blanc d’Argile’ Blanc de Blancs Extra-Brut $450 David Léclapart ‘L’Apôtre’ Blanc de Blancs Extra-Brut $590 Ulysse Colin ‘Les Maillons’ Blanc de Noirs Extra-Brut $330 Benoît Lahaye ‘Violaine’ Brut Nature $380 SPARKLING WINES

Damien Bureau NV Vin pétillant de France ‘saPerlipopet’ $150

Château Tour Grise 2004 Saumur Brut Non Dosé $150

La Grapperie 2013 Vin de Table ‘La Bueilloise’ $170

Alice Beaufort 2010 Vin Effervescent $200 ‘Le petit Beaufort’ Brut Alice Beaufort 2011 Vin Effervescent $190 ‘Le petit Beaufort’ Brut Alice Beaufort 2011 Rouge Mousseux $170 ‘Charmoire’ Demi-Sec

Guy Blanchard NV Vin Mousseux ‘Blanc Charmant’ $180 “ My only regret in life is that I did not drink more champagne.” Domaine des NV Vin Mousseux Aromatique de Qualité $160 – John Maynard Keynes Terres Dorées ‘FRV100’

André & Mireille NV Crémant du Jura ‘Indigène’ Brut $180 Tissot 12 Sylvain Bock 2014 Vin de France ‘Faux sans blanc’ $130 13 WHITE WINES Loire

Domaine Saint-Nicolas 2007 Fiefs Vendéens Brem $200 ‘Le Haut des Clous’

La Sénéchalière 2014 Vin de France $150 ‘La Folle Blanche’ La Sénéchalière 2014 Vin de France ‘La Bohème’ $140 La Sénéchalière 2014 Vin de France ‘Miss-terre’ $150

Domaine de l’Écu 2009 Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine $170 sur Lie ‘Expression de Gneiss’

Agnès et René Mosse 2014 Anjou $160 Agnès et René Mosse 2014 Vin de France $190 ‘Les Bonnes Blanches’

Mai et Kenji Hodgson 2014 Vin de France ‘Faia’ $180

Ferme de la Sansonnière 2010 Anjou ‘Les Fourchardes’ $210 Ferme de la Sansonnière 2010 Anjou ‘La Lune’ $220 Ferme de la Sansonnière 2005 Anjou ‘La Lune’ 1500ml $390 14 Ferme de la Sansonnière 2004 Anjou ‘Vignes Françaises’ $300 15 Ferme de la Sansonnière 2003 Anjou ‘Les Vieilles $320 Vignes des Blanderies’

Château Tour Grise 2003 Saumur ‘Fontenelles’ $150 Château Tour Grise 2011 Vin de France ‘Fontenelles’ $160

Stéphane Bernaudeau 2009 Vin de France $220 ‘Les Nourissons’

La Grapperie 2011 Vin de Table $170 ‘‘Le Pressoir de St-Pierre’ La Grapperie 2008 Vin de Table ‘La Désirée’ $190

Noëlla Morantin 2014 Vin de France ‘Chez Charles’ $160 Noëlla Morantin 2013 Vin de France ‘Terre Blanche’ $170 Noëlla Morantin 2013 Vin de France ‘LBL’ $190 Alexandre Bain Sébastien Riffault 2013 Sancerre ‘Les Quarterons’ $160 Sébastien Riffault 2007 Sancerre ‘Akmèniné’ $180 Alexandre Bain started his winery in 2007. His parents aren't in the Sébastien Riffault 2012 Sancerre ‘Akmèniné’ $170 wine trade but his grandfather had vines in the area, with which he Sébastien Riffault 2012 Sancerre ‘Sauletas’ $190 could start working. During his viticulture-enology training, he had Sébastien Riffault 2006 Sancerre ‘Auksinis’ $200 Mathieu Coste as teacher and it helped him build his trust in organic Sébastien Riffault 2009 Sancerre ‘Auksinis’ $200 farming in the viticulture. Sébastien Riffault 2012 Sancerre ‘Auksinis’ $190 Sébastien Riffault 2010 Sancerre ‘Skeveldra’ $200 Mathieu Coste later quit the wine school and started his own winery Sébastien Riffault 2012 Sancerre ‘Skeveldra’ $190 in the region. Alexandre's vineyard surface is 9 hectares, which he purchased from a grower in the region who need to scale down. The production is strictly white with 3 different cuvee. This is so far the most natural Pouilly fume you can find at this time. Sébastien Riffault

Sébastien Riffault started taking over the reigns of his wine estate Alexandre Bain 2013 Pouilly-Fumé ‘L d’Ange’ $190 in 2004 from his Father Étienne. First, he converted a couple Alexandre Bain 2013 Pouilly-Fumé ‘Mademoiselle M’ $200 of vineyards to organic viticulture. Pleased with the results, Etienne let Sébastien transform the entire estate to an organic and then biodynamic property. A believer in biodiversity, an array of plants, flowers and grass are planted in the vineyards. Some of the vines are over 50 years old. His grapes are organically grown and use of the biodynamic principles. Plowed by horse ; absolutely no chemical pesticides, herbicides or fungicides are employed.

16 Sébastien uses a pneumatic press. Natural fermentation takes 17 place in larger, older wooden vats. Riffault’s wines also undergo full on malolactic fermentation. He never chaptalizes or acidifies. The wines are aged on their lees and bottled, unfiltered and unfined.

If ‘Les Quarterons’ is the most traditional of the lot (though not as typical of Sancerre as others) the other wines display amber to darker color with deep yeasty aroma, stone fruit and buttery but yet refreshing.

This is due to late harvest with very low yields; 30 % of Botrytis for Akméniné and up to 50 % for the 3 others. Coloring elements from the skin and no use of sulfur (which chemically decolor the wine) are also helping the wines to reach this unique profile. In 2008, after meeting Italian and Slovenian winemakers Sébastien started skin maceration on some of his Sauletas cuvées. Bourgogne Domaine 2013 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er $280 Fontaine-Gagnard Cru ‘Morgeot’ Athénaïs de Béru 2014 ‘Amphore’ Chardonnay $250 Athénaïs de Béru 2014 Vin de France ‘love joy’ $220 Jean-Jacques Morel 2013 Bourgogne ‘Les Genouvrées’ $200 Athénaïs de Béru 2014 Chablis 1er Cru ‘Montmains’ $280 Jean-Jacques Morel 2014 Bourgogne ‘Les Genouvrées’ $200 Athénaïs de Béru 2014 Chablis 1er Cru ‘Mont de Milieu’ $280 Jean-Jacques Morel 2014 Puligny-Montrachet $290 Jean-Jacques Morel 2013 Saint-Aubin ‘La Traversaine’ $240 Château de Béru 2014 Chablis ‘Terroirs de Béru’ $200 Jean-Jacques Morel 2014 Saint-Aubin ‘La Traversaine’ $240 Château de Béru 2014 Chablis ‘Côte aux Prêtres’ $220 Jean-Jacques Morel 2013 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru $270 Château de Béru 2014 Chablis ‘Orangerie’ $240 Jean-Jacques Morel 2014 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru $270 Château de Béru 2014 Chablis 1er Cru ‘Vaucoupin’ $280 Château de Béru 2012 Chablis ‘Clos Béru’ $280 Sextant 2014 Bourgogne $220 Sextant 2014 Puligny-Montrachet $290 Yann Durieux 2010 Bourgogne Aligoté ‘Love & Pif’ $270 ‘Les Reuchaux’ Yann Durieux 2010 Hautes-Côtes de Nuits ‘Manon’ $340 Sextant 2014 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru $330

Philippe Pacalet 2012 Chablis 1er Cru ‘Beauroy’ $350 Bruno Perraud 2013 Bourgogne Aligoté $160 Philippe Pacalet 2011 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru $980 Bruno Perraud 2012 Pouilly-Fuissé $200 Philippe Pacalet 2013 Meursault $420 Bruno Perraud 2012 Saint-Véran $180 Philippe Pacalet 2011 Puligny-Montrachet $450

Decelle-Villa 2012 Bourgogne $200 Beaujolais Decelle-Villa 2013 Bourgogne $200 Decelle-Villa 2013 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru $650 P.U.R. 2014 Vin de France ‘Énergie’ $130 Decelle-Villa 2013 Meursault $330 P.U.R. 2014 Vin de France ‘Origine’ $130 18 Decelle-Villa 2013 Meursault 1er Cru ‘Les Poruzots’ $400 19 Decelle-Villa 2013 Puligny-Montrachet $360 ‘Les Nosroyes’ Decelle-Villa 2013 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru $370 Alsace ‘Morgeot’ Poised between French and German cultures, Alsace is quite Lou Dumont 2012 Bourgogne $240 unlike any other wine region in France. Its ribbon of vineyards Lou Dumont 2013 Meursault $280 running through the foothills of the rugged Vosges Mountains produces versatile, fruity, and full-bodied wines which, unusually François Mikulski 2013 Bourgogne $240 for France, take their names from the local grape varieties. François Mikulski 2009 Meursault ‘Goutte d’Or’ $450

Chanterêves 2013 Auxey-Duresses $260 André Ostertag 2012 Alsace Grand Cru Riesling $240 ‘Muenchberg’ André Ostertag 2011 Alsace Grand Cru Pinot Gris $280 ‘A360P - Muenchberg’

Domaine Pierre Frick Jura Pierre Frick is one of the Alsace pioneers in biodynamie. He converted Michel Gahier 2014 Arbois ‘Les Crets’ Chardonnay $160 in 1981 after having already turned to organics in 1970. Altogether Michel Gahier 2013 Arbois ‘Les Folasses’ Chardonnay $140 he farms 12 hectares of vineyards, in several plots, a third of which is Michel Gahier 2014 Arbois ‘La Fauquette’ Chardonnay $170 rented. Wines are fermented solely with indigenous yeasts and there is no acidification or chaptalization. Each year, a couple of the cuvées André & Mireille 2003 Arbois Vin Jaune ‘En Spois’ $290 are made without any sulfur dioxide additions. Tissot As with many biodynamic growers, the vineyard receives much of the Pierre Overnoy 2010 Arbois-Pupillin Chardonnay $190 focus. With the shift to biodynamics in 1981, Frick began working the Pierre Overnoy 2011 Arbois-Pupillin Savagnin $280 soil in the winter and leaving the grass to grow in the vine growing Pierre Overnoy 1999 Arbois-Pupillin $300 season, with a couple of passes from the mower to keep it under Chardonnay / Savagnin control. Since 1999 they’ve further modified their vineyard interventions: Pierre Overnoy 1997 Arbois-Pupillin $390 no rotary tools are used any longer; just simple tractor-drawn ones to ‘Vieux Savagnin Ouillé’ preserve the soil structure. Pierre Overnoy 2000 Arbois-Pupillin $370 ‘Vieux Savagnin Ouillé’ Harvesting is by hand, which is expensive, but is important for ‘the social side experienced during harvest and the search of quality Les Dolomies 2014 Côtes-du-Jura $180 through grape selection’. ‘Les Boutonniers’ Chardonnay Les Dolomies 2014 Côtes-du-Jura ‘En Novelin’ $200 Pierre Frick 2013 Alsace Riesling $160 Chardonnay Pierre Frick 2013 Alsace Gewurztraminer $170 Les Dolomies 2014 Côtes-du-Jura ‘Croix Sarrant’ $200 “Zéro Sulfite Ajouté” Savagnin Pierre Frick 2014 Alsace Pinot Gris $170 20 “Zéro Sulfite Ajouté” Julien Labet 2013 Côtes-du-Jura ‘Lias’ Chardonnay $190 21 Pierre Frick 2013 Alsace ‘Bergweingarten’ Sylvaner $170 Julien Labet 2013 Côtes-du-Jura ‘Bajocien’ $190 Pierre Frick 2013 Alsace ‘Rot Murle’ Riesling $170 Chardonnay “Zéro Sulfite Ajouté” Pierre Frick 2010 Alsace ‘Rot Murle’ Pinot Gris $160 Jean-François 2009 Côtes-du-Jura ‘Cuvée Prestige’ $280 Pierre Frick 2012 Alsace Grand Cru $190 Ganevat Savagnin Ganevat ‘Vorbourg’ Riesling Jean-François 2010 Côtes-du-Jura ‘Cuvée Orégane’ $300 Pierre Frick 2012 Alsace Grand Cru ‘Vorbourg’ $190 Ganevat Chardonnay Savagnin Pinot Gris

Domaine Josmeyer 2012 Alsace Pinot Auxerrois $190 ‘H’ Vieilles Vignes Domaine Josmeyer 2012 Alsace Riesling ‘Le Dragon’ $200

Hubert Hausherr 2012 Alsace Riesling Gewurztraminer $160 ‘Altengarten’ Hubert Hausherr 2012 Alsace Riesling Pinot Gris ‘Sungass’ $160 Savoie Languedoc Jacques Maillet 2012 Savoie ‘Autrement’ Jacquère $170 Domaine de Rapatel 2010 Vin de Table $160

‘La Grande Signature, Cuvée Nadège’ Gilles & 2008 Vin de Savoie Chignin-Bergeron $210 Domaine de Rapatel 2011 Vin de Pays du Gard $130 Christine Berlioz ‘Le Vin de France’

Alain Chabanon 2010 Vin de Pays d’Oc ‘Trélans’ $220 Rhône Mas Haut-Buis 2012 Vin de Pays de l’Hérault $190 Yves Gangloff 2010 Condrieu $440 ‘Les Agrunelles’ Mas Haut-Buis 2013 Vin de Pays de l’Hérault $190 La Ferme des 2013 Saint-Joseph $190 ‘Les Agrunelles’ Sept Lunes Le Temps des Cerises 2014 Vin de Table ‘Peur du Rouge’ $140 Pierre Gonon 2012 Saint-Joseph ‘Les Oliviers’ $280 L’Escarpolette 2014 Vin de France ‘La Petite Pépée’ $140 Éric Texier 2013 Côtes-du-Rhône Brézème $200 Éric Texier 2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape $280 Domaine Mâmârutá 2014 Vin de France ‘Trafalgar’ $140 Domaine Mâmârutá 2014 Vin de France ‘Constellations’ $170 Provence Roussillon Domaine de Trévallon 2011 Alpilles $350

Domaine de l’Èdre 2012 Côtes du Roussillon $180 Henri Milan 2012 Vin de France ‘Le Grand Blanc’ $180 22 ‘Carrément Blanc’ 23

Domaine Gauby 2007 Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes $190 Corsica ‘Calcinaires’ Domaine Gauby 2006 Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes $390 Antoine Arena 2005 Patrimonio ‘Grotte di Sole’ $220 ‘Coume Gineste’ Antoine Arena 2006 Vin de France ‘Biancu Gentile’ $220 Sud-Ouest DIDIER DAGUENEAU 1956-2008 Peyre Rose 1999 Coteaux du Languedoc ‘Oro’ $240 Didier Dagueneau, the nonconformist, independent, eccentric, and maverick. He is dedicated to producing the greatest white Laurent Cazottes 2013 Vin de France ‘Adèle’s’ $130 wines of the Loire — and all of France for that matter.

Château 2009 Bergerac Sec ‘Moulin des Dames’ $240 “The master of the sauvignon blanc grape” Tour des Gendres He is on a crusade to redeem the reputation of authentic Pouilly-Fumé. Domaine Didier Dagueneau is located in Saint Domaine Arretxea 2011 Irouleguy ‘Hegoxury’ $220 Andelain, a village in the Pouilly Fumé Appellation. He owns about 28 acres of land consisting of mainly clay and flint based soils (or ‘Silex’ in French). Dagueneau is a perfectionist and he attends to Auvergne every detail — from vineyard management (biodynamic since 1993) to the cellar, which is said to look like a cathedral. He goes way Pierre Beauger 2014 Vin de France Lot “SB14” $380 beyond the regulations of the appellation — pruning severely, ‘Not for highway use*’ de-budding, de-leafing, thinning clusters, and keeping low yields — and each harvest is done manually over several tries. Dagueneau’s non-conformity has helped him more than hurt him: his long tousled hair, his bushy beard, his intense gaze, not to mention his passion for sled dogs have all earned him the nickname “the madman of Saint-Andelain” and made him very popular with the press. He is extremely meticulous and possesses a special intuition 24 where winemaking is concerned. His goals are always authenticity 25 and perfection. To obtain grapes of the highest quality, his vineyard workers spend at least three months carefully de-budding even after a severe pruning earlier in the year. And when the grapes are perfectly ripe, the harvest is done by hand, only grapes of impeccable condition are picked, the others are thrown out. His new winemaking facilities, specifically adapted to Dagueneau’s techniques, use gravity for moving liquids and allow him to apply his ideas without the slightest compromise. After fermentation, the wines are aged in a beautiful cellar containing big barrels and “cigares” (small, long oval barrels which he designed and are made especially for him). The cellar is kept cool to limit interaction between the wine and the oak, thus avoiding an overly oaky aroma in the wine. Dagueneau makes four different dry white wines, all Pouilly Fumés. His basic wine is the En Chailloux, a blend from several vineyards. Next step up is the Buisson Renard, more flinty in style, “Astéroïde” but still round, and more ageworthy. The remaining two wines are Blanc fumé de Pouilly, Vigne Française both superstars from single vineyards, and are barrel fermented. Both come from slate soils with one being called Silex, Pur Sang The wine that never been reveal neither export to professionals. and a mysterious “Asteroid” The less than 10 ranks non-grafted-vines which being extra take cared and permanent supervision by Didier Dagueneau himself. Pur Sang means “Thoroughbred” in English. The flavors tend to That made to be only shared between Dagueneau’s family and fall somewhere in between the En Chailloux (which accounts for friends, until today there are still very little information and note half his production and is his softest, friendliest wine) and about this one and only “Asteroid”. Cuvée Silex (his most structured cuvée). The Pur Sang is said to be a more hedonistic Sauvignon (often on par with the Silex), but Vintages produced, 100% Sauvignon Blanc: less mineral driven. 1995, 1997, 1998, 2000, 2002, 2003, 2006, 2008 apparently. That being said the minerality comes through loud and clear on the Dagueneau is a great story that will be missed… nose as well as lemon, citrus, white flowers and some fresh hay. On the palate, very structured, rich and creamy with pronounced mineral components, chalky and loads of lemon zest with a hint of Didier Dagueneau 2012 Blanc Fumé de Pouilly $290 tangerine and nectarine. Great acidity with a very clean, pure and an Didier Dagueneau 2005 Blanc Fumé de Pouilly $340 extremely long finish. ‘Buisson Renard’ Didier Dagueneau 2001 Blanc Fumé de Pouilly $740 The acidity and strong mineral components make this a great pairing ‘Silex’ 1500ml for mussels, raw clams or oysters as well as other seafood dishes. Didier Dagueneau 2009 Blanc Fumé de Pouilly ‘Silex’ $390 Also, seems as though this wine might benefit from 2-3 years of Didier Dagueneau 2006 Blanc Fumé de Pouilly $400 cellaring…. ‘Pure Sang’ Didier Dagueneau 2007 Blanc Fumé de Pouilly $410 Didier Dagueneau was tragically killed on September 17, 2008 ‘Pure Sang’ 26 when the ultralight plane he was piloting experienced problems 27 during take off and crashed. He was only 52 years young. He had accomplished so much and his wines established a legend for sauvignon blanc, yet it seemed as though he was just getting started. Didier Dagueneau and his most mysterious bottle “Asteroid” became a great story, a legend… SKIN CONTACT

La Sénéchalière 2014 Vin de France ‘Nuitages’ $170

Yann Durieux 2013 Vin de France $280 ‘Les Ponts Blancs’ Aligoté

Sextant 2013 Vin de France ‘Skin Contact’ $160

L’Escarpolette 2014 Vin de France ‘Le Blanc’ $150

Domaine Mâmârutá 2014 Vin de France ‘La Paysannerie’ $190

Back in the mists of time, most all white wines were fermented on their skins, usually in open top fermenters, at uncontrolled temperatures, just like red wines. White wines fermented in red wine fashion pull enough pigment out of the skins to develop earthy colors, and the inevitable oxygenation of open-top fermentation adds to the orangeness. Wines made this way also tend to suffer no sulfur additions and filtration. For decades, the worldwide wine industry has rewritten the white wine playbook. Separation of juice and pulp, fermentation in neutral, 28 closed stainless steel at cool temperatures. Fining and filtration 29 make the wines crystal clear and shelf stable, and early bottling ensures fresh, fruity, bright wines. Adopting these protocols has exponentially improved the quality of white wines around the world; in this hugely successful recipe, avoiding skin contact is a core component. Skin contact refers to the length of time the juice is left in contact with the skins and seeds. The longer the time the juice is left in contact with the skin and seeds the greater the extraction of the components of the skins into the juice. Since the microbial flora of the grapes is located on the skins, skin contact also increases the contact of these organisms with the juice. One thing makes white skin contact an unknown-unknown is that there’s not much research done about it. Ever since the method earned the status of “nobody does that anymore,” it gets less attention, and a lot of puzzles are left unsolved. ROSÉ

Ferme de la 2010 Vin de France ‘Rosé d’un jour’ $200 Sansonnière

Michel Guignier 2013 Vin de France ‘Mystère de Rosée’ $170

Henri Milan 2014 Vin de France ‘Le Papillon Rose’ $180 Terroir

Roc d’Anglade 2013 Vin de Pays du Gard $170 Only relatively recently have European wine makers given overt recognition to the grapes they grow. La Fontude NV Vin de France ‘Carnaval’ $130 Of course they knew their universal names, though they often used local jargon instead. Le Scarabée 2014 Vin de France ‘Le p´tit Scarabée’ $150 But they had a firm belief that it was the land that gave the wine its character, not the grape. The grape was inherited Domaine Mâmârutá 2014 Vin de France ‘Grain de Folie’ $130 from the generations before and replanted when necessary. It was but the part of the statement of the land, the soil, the drainage, the weather, humidity or lack of it, water supply, the angle of the vineyard towards the sun - in short, the whole natural environment.

The French have a word for this concept: Terroir, which does not translate directly into English. In its holistic use of term includes the people, customs, traditions, even 30 the local food of an area. More commonly, however, 31 Terroir relates to the land, nearby lakes, rivers and seas, and the climate as it affects the working vineyard. In a new wine region the Terroir is examined before suitable grapes are chosen. In Europe the grape varieties are there because they have always been. The forefathers had decided what to plant based on Terroir. RED WINES Loire

Pithon-Paillé 2010 Anjou ‘Mozaïk’ $150

Agnès et René Mosse 2013 Anjou $160

La Coulée d’Ambrosia 2012 Vin de France $150 ‘Le Boit Sans Soif’ La Coulée d’Ambrosia 2013 Vin de France $150 ‘Les Joues Rouges’

Les Vignes de Babass 2011 Vin de France ‘Roc Cab’ $150

Damien Bureau 2013 Vin de France ‘La Poivrotte’ $150 Damien Bureau 2013 Vin de France ‘Le Bourre Pif’ $160

Mai et Kenji Hodgson 2014 Vin de France ‘Ô Galarneau’ $150

Ferme de la Sansonnière 2010 Vin de France ‘Grolle Noire’ $200

Stéphane Bernaudeau 2011 Vin de France ‘La Chantelée’ $180 32 Stéphane Bernaudeau 2012 Vin de France ‘Les Vrilles’ $180 33 Chahut et Prodiges 2013 Vin de France ‘La mule’ $150 Chahut et Prodiges 2013 Vin de France ‘Les têtes noires’ $150

La Grapperie 2011 Vin de Table ‘Le Gravot’ $150 La Grapperie 2012 Vin de Table ‘Adonis’ $170

Noëlla Morantin 2013 Vin de France La Boudinerie $150 Noëlla Morantin 2013 Vin de France ‘Côt à Côt’ $170 Noëlla Morantin 2014 Vin de France ‘Côt à Côt’ $170

Les Cailloux du Paradis 2010 Vin de France ‘Racines’ $210 Bourgogne Prieuré Roch 2013 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru $710 ‘Les Suchots’ More than any other region in France, Burgundy has distilled the wisdom Prieuré Roch 2013 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru $980 and experience of its history into winemaking. Established by powerful ‘Vieilles Vignes’ monasteries from the 7th century onwards, the vineyards have been Prieuré Roch 2013 Nuits-Saint-Georges $1210 cultivated by people who came to understand every nuance of the soil 1er Cru ‘Clos des Corvées’ and every natural factor acting upon it – rainfall, wind conditions, sunlight and temperature. Burgundian wine patronized by royalty Philippe Pacalet 2008 Ruchottes-Chambertin $950 through the ages, is celebrated for its elegance and subtlety. Grand Cru Philippe Pacalet 2008 Charmes-Chambertin $790 Alice Beaufort 2010 Bourgogne ‘Grande Charme’ $190 Grand Cru Philippe Pacalet 2012 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru $490 Athénaïs de Béru 2014 Bourgogne Côte d’Auxerre $220 Philippe Pacalet 2007 Beaune 1er Cru ‘Les Perrières’ $450 Athénaïs de Béru 2012 Irancy $260 Philippe Pacalet 2010 Pommard $360

Lou Dumont 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru $380 Jean-Jacques Morel 2007 Saint-Aubin $220 ‘Champeaux’ Jean-Jacques Morel 2008 Saint-Aubin $220 Jean-Jacques Morel 2012 Saint-Aubin ‘Le Ban’ $240 Cécile Tremblay 2006 Morey-Saint-Denis $770 Jean-Jacques Morel 2008 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru $270 ‘Trés Girard’ ‘Les Frionnes’ Jean-Jacques Morel 2013 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru $260 Domaine Lécheneaut 2007 Morey-Saint-Denis $280 ‘Les Frionnes’

Pascal Marchand 2012 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru $840 Sextant 2014 Bourgogne $190 Sextant 2014 Côte-de-Nuits Villages $240 34 Domaine Bizot 2012 Échezeaux Grand Cru $950 Sextant 2014 Monthélie 1er Cru $280 35 Domaine Bizot 2011 Vosne-Romanée ‘Les Jachées’ $490 ‘Sur la Velle’

Decelle-Villa 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin $360 Decelle-Villa 2013 Morey-Saint-Denis $330 Decelle-Villa 2011 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru $520 ‘Les Baudes’ Decelle-Villa 2013 Vosne-Romanée $410 Decelle-Villa 2011 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru $410 ‘Les Crots’ Decelle-Villa 2011 Beaune 1er Cru ‘Clos du Roi’ $300 Decelle-Villa 2011 Beaune 1er Cru ‘Les Teurons’ $300 Decelle-Villa 2011 Pommard 1er Cru ‘Les Epenots’ $350 Decelle-Villa 2013 Savigny-lès-Beaune $270 ‘Les Pimentiers’ Decelle-Villa 2013 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru $280 ‘Les Peuillets’ Beaujolais Rhône

Michel Guignier 2014 Vin de France $170 La Ferme des Sept Lunes 2013 Saint-Joseph $180 ‘Mélodie d’Automne’ La Ferme des Sept Lunes 2013 Saint-Joseph ‘Premier Quartier’ $190 Michel Guignier 2013 Vin de France ‘Ohhh…!’ $170 La Ferme des Sept Lunes 2013 Saint-Joseph ‘Chemin Faisant’ $200 Michel Guignier 2012 Fleurie ‘Au Bon Grès’ $190 Michel Guignier 2012 Moulin-à-Vent ‘La Petite Oseille’ $190 Pierre Gonon 2011 Saint-Joseph $280

Lilian Bauchet 2013 Vin de France ‘Sur la Root’ $170 Jean-Louis Chave 2007 Hermitage $840 Lilian Bauchet 2011 Fleurie ‘Clos des Bachelards’ $150 Lilian Bauchet 2013 Vin de France ‘Da Zi Bao’ $160 Thierry Allemand 2009 Cornas ‘Chaillot’ $440

Bruno Perraud 2012 Morgon $180 Sylvain Bock 2014 Vin de France ‘Neck’ $140 Sylvain Bock 2014 Vin de France ‘Les Grelots’ $140 Marcel Lapierre 2011 Morgon MMXI $240 Mas de l’Escarida 2013 Vin de France ‘Sota mon Soleu’ $130 Jean Foillard 2013 Morgon ‘Cuvée 3,14’ $220 Le Raisin et l’Ange 2014 Vin de France $150 Decelle-Villa 2011 Côtes-de-Brouilly ‘La Côte’ $170 ‘Le Primeur de l’Ange’

Domaine Des Grottes 2014 Vin de France ‘Brut de Cuve’ $150 Domaine Gramenon 2011 Côtes-du-Rhône ‘Sierra du Sud’ $210 Domaine Des Grottes 2014 Vin de France ‘Micro Cuvée’ $150 Éric Texier 2012 Côtes-du-Rhône Brézème $200 Le Picatier 2013 Vin de France ‘Cuvée Gamenits’ $150 Domaine de Villeneuve 2013 Côtes-du-Rhône ‘La Griffe’ $170 36 P.U.R. 2014 Vin de France ‘C’Fini’ $140 Domaine de Villeneuve 2009 Châteauneuf-du-Pape $230 37 ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Domaine de Villeneuve 2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape $220 Jura ‘Vieilles Vignes’

Michel Gahier 2014 Arbois ‘Les Vignes de Louis’ $160 Le Clos du Caillou 2011 Châteauneuf-du-Pape $440 Trousseau ‘La Réserve’ Michel Gahier 2014 Arbois ‘Clousot’ Trousseau $150 Michel Gahier 2014 Arbois ‘Grands Vergers’ $170 Trousseau

Pierre Overnoy 2011 Arbois-Pupillin Poulsard $210 Pierre Overnoy 2012 Arbois-Pupillin Poulsard $280 La Fontude NV Vin de France ‘Fontitude’ $130 La Fontude NV Vin de France ‘Amarèl’ $130 South of France Mas Haut-Buis 2001 Coteaux du Languedoc $300 Blue skies, dazzling sunlight, cypress, pine, and olive trees ‘Costa Caoude’ bowed by the force of the mistral wind, rocky terrain, and Mas Haut-Buis 2002 Coteaux du Languedoc $280 tiny villages with medieval towers – the traditional picture ‘Costa Caoude’ of the south of francestill holds the true. Mas Haut-Buis 2007 Coteaux du Languedoc $250 Stretching the whole length of the Mediterranean ‘Costa Caoude’ coast between the Italian and Spanish Mas Haut-Buis 2011 Languedoc - Terrasses du $220 borders, the area is also an enormous viticultural zone. Larzac ‘Costa Caoude’ Languedoc-Roussillon alone represents a third of france’s Mas Haut-Buis 2012 Languedoc - Terrasses du $220 total vineyard area. Larzac ‘Costa Caoude’

Le Temps des Cerises 2014 Vin de Table ‘Un Pas de Côté’ $160 Le Temps des Cerises 2014 Vin de Table ‘Fou du Roi’ $150 Provence Mas Coutelou 2014 Vin de Table ‘Classe’ $140 Domaine de Trévallon 1990 Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence $830 Mas Coutelou 2014 Vin de Table ‘Syrah’ $160 ‘Les Baux’ Mas Coutelou 2014 Vin de Table ‘Mourvèdre’ $180 Mas Coutelou 2014 Vin de Table ‘Flambadou’ $160 Corsica 38 Antoine Arena 2008 Patrimonio ‘Carco’ $210 39 Languedoc

Domaine de Rapatel 2011 Vin de Table ‘Le Petit $130 Journal de Rapatel’ Domaine de Rapatel 2007 Vin de Table $140 ‘La Petite Signature’ Domaine de Rapatel 2009 Vin de Table ‘Cuvée Arthur’ $160

Roc d’Anglade NV Vin de Pays du Gard $330 ‘Reserva Especial n°1’

Autour de l’Anne 2012 Coteaux du Languedoc $140 ‘Pot d’Anne’ Mylène Bru 2014 Coteaux du Languedoc ‘Far-Ouest’ $170 Roussillon Mylène Bru 2014 Vin de France ‘Rita’ $170 Mylène Bru 2014 Vin de France ‘Karm Rouge’ $180 La Petite Baigneuse 2009 Côtes du Roussillon ‘Bon Plein’ $180 Mylène Bru 2014 Vin de France $170 ‘Les Moulins de mon Cœur’ Domaine des Chênes 2003 Côtes du Roussillon-Villages $220 Tautavel ‘La Carissa’ L’Escarpolette 2013 Vin de France ‘Escarpolette’ $150 L’Escarpolette 2013 Vin de France ‘Les Vieilles’ $170 Domaine Gauby 2003 Côtes du Roussillon-Villages $230 ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Léon Barral 2009 Faugères ‘Valinières’ $290 Domaine Gauby 2010 Côtes du Roussillon-Villages $220 ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Thomas Rouanet 2013 Saint-Chinian ‘Bombadilom’ $150 Domaine Gauby 2010 Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes $390 ‘La Muntada’

Thomas Rouanet Le Scarabée 2014 Vin de France ‘Nina’ $150 Le Scarabée 2013 Vin de France ‘Murmûre’ $160 Thomas Rouanet in Creissan, in the appellation of St. Chinian has just five hectares all the vinification are made at Yannick Pelletier place where Thomas used to do his first wines. Bombadilom his Sud-Ouest wine, apparently a reference to Tolkien, is a blend of Carignan and Grenache, grown on clay and limestone soil. He studied in Montpellier Peyre Rose 2002 Coteaux du Languedoc $390 and worked with Jean Viennet at Château de Raissac, learning ‘what ‘Clos Syrah Léone’ not to do’. Peyre Rose 2003 Coteaux du Languedoc $380 ‘Syrah Léone’ The Carignan is vinified by carbonic maceration, and no sulphur is Peyre Rose 2004 Coteaux du Languedoc $350 40 ‘Syrah Léone’ 41 added. This is a very small story for a such amazing winemaker but the pleasure is very long. Peyre Rose 2004 Coteaux du Languedoc $390 ‘Clos des Cistes’

Laurent Cazottes 2013 Vin de France ‘Marcotte’ $130 Yannick Pelletier 2013 Saint-Chinian ‘l’Engoulevent’ $150 Yannick Pelletier 2012 Saint-Chinian ‘Coccigrues’ $190 Domaine Cosse 2008 Cahors ‘Les Laquets’ $220 Maisonneuve Domaine Mâmârutá 2014 Vin de France ‘Kézako ?’ $130 Domaine Mâmârutá 2014 Vin de France ‘Les Tondeuses’ $130 Élian Da Ros 2010 Côtes-du-Marmandais $200 Domaine Mâmârutá 2013 Vin de France ‘Cacahuète’ $170 ‘Chante Coucou’

Les Sabots d’Hélène 2013 Vin de Table ‘Liberterre’ $130 Les Sabots d’Hélène 2013 Vin de Table ‘Percepteurs ! $170 Huissiers Garnisaires DEMI-TOUR ! Plus Noir que Rouge’

Bordelais SWEET WINES

Clos du Jaugueyron 2014 Haut-Médoc $250 André Ostertag 2011 Alsace Gewurztraminer $280 Vendanges Tardives ‘Fronholz’ Despagne-Rapin 2014 Vin de Fance ‘Vinum Simplex’ $220 Domaine Josmeyer 2011 Alsace Pinot Gris ‘Le Fromenteau’ $180

Auvergne Pierre Frick 2011 Alsace Riesling $230 Vendanges Tardives Pierre Beauger 2014 Vin de France Lot "PN14" $300 Pierre Frick 2008 Alsace Pinot Gris $220 ‘Vendangé en jour fesses’ Vendanges Tardives Pierre Frick 2010 Alsace Gewurztraminer $160 Vendanges Tardives Pierre Frick 2010 Alsace Pinot Gris $210 Sélection de Grains Nobles

Hubert Hausherr 2011 Alsace Gewurztraminer, $190 Riesling, Pinot Gris ‘De Roc et de Porcelaine’

Agnès et René Mosse 2010 Anjou ‘Tenderness’ $150

Château de 2009 Saumur $220 42 Fosse-Sêche ‘Les Tris de la Chapelle’ 43 Philippe Foreau 2003 Vouvray Moelleux $350 ‘Domaine du Clos Naudin - Réserve’

François Pinon 2003 Vouvray Moelleux $190 François Pinon 2003 Vouvray ‘Première Trie’ 500ml $190 François Pinon 2005 Vouvray ‘Cuvée Botrytis’ 500ml $190

Zéro Pointé !

An intriguing name for a special wine away from the sweet appellations of the Vallée de la Loire. Nothing to do with a Crémant; fermentation occurs with indigenous yeast and is stopped after tasting, when acidity/sugar/ texture are balanced. Bottled with its own gas. Partial fermentation aims for a Que mon sparkling rosé with lower degree of alcohol and residual sugar. Flacon This wine displays flavors of the range of all red fruits. Me semble bon; Sans lui So why ‘Zéro Pointé !’ ? When Philippe Gourdon presented his L'ennui project of rosé for the Saumur AOC he was rejected because Me nuit, his rosé was too dark. Even a jury member felt a slight fizz! So Me suit; Philippe decided to produce a cuvée of sparkling rosé named ‘Zéro Je sens Marks’ after it flunked to match the criteria for the appellation. Mes sens Mourants Pesants Quand je le tiens Château Tour Grise 2014 Vin de France $130 Dieu que je suis bien ! Que son aspect est agréable ! ‘Ze Bulle Zéro Pointé’ Que je fais cas de ses divers présents ! Château Tour Grise 2014 Coteaux de Saumur $200 C'est de son sein fécond et de ses heureux flancs ‘Les Étourneaux’ 500 ml Que coule ce nectar si doux, si délectable, Qui rend dans les esprits tous les cœurs satisfaits, L’Escarpolette NV Vin de France $230 Cher objet de mes vœux tu fais toute ma gloire, ‘Uvas Passas’ 500 ml Tant que mon cœur vivra de tes charmants bienfaits 44 Il saura conserver la fidèle mémoire. 45 Domaine des Chênes 2010 Muscat de Rivesaltes $180 Ma muse à te louer se consacre à jamais, Tantôt dans un caveau, tantôt sous ma treille, Répètera cent fois cette aimable chanson. Dominique Andiran 2009 Vin de France $180 Règne sans fin ma charmante bouteille ‘Domaine Haut- Règne sans cesse, mon cher flacon. Campagnau - Soyeux’ LA BOUTEILLE

CIDERS

Éric Bordelet NV Sidre ‘Brut Tendre’ Demi-Sec $160

La Cidrerie du Golfe 2014 Cidre 'Hors-Normes' $130 Charles-François Panard (1689-1765) La Cidrerie du Golfe 2014 Cidre 'Le Guillevic' $130 La Cidrerie du Golfe 2014 'Le Dayou' $210 APÉRITIFS Calvados / Lambig

Vin De Liqueur 60 cl Eau-de-Vie de cidre ‘Lambig’ - La Cidrerie du Golfe (Bretagne) $ 35 Apéritif à base de cidre - Domaine du Fortmanel (Normandie) $ 30 Calvados ‘Réserve’ - Julien Frémont (Normandie) $ 35 Macvin du Jura - Les Dolomies (Jura) $ 25 Pineau des Charentes Blanc - La Tour Vert (Charentes) $ 25 Eau-De-Vie De Fruit

Vermouth 45 cl Fine de Terret ‘Escadrille - MF902’ $ 35 Vermouth de Chambéry Rouge - Dolin (Savoie) $ 20 - La Fontude (Languedoc) Vermouth de Chambéry Dry - Dolin (Savoie) $ 20 Eau-de-Vie de raisin 2012 ‘Goutte de Mauzac Rose passerillée’ $ 35 Eau-de-Vie 2013 ‘Goutte de Reine-Claude Dorée passerillée’ $ 35 Anisé 20 cl Liqueur de raisins 2012 ‘Folle Noire’ $ 15 Pastis aux Plantes - Bernard Marty (Languedoc) $ 15 Liqueur de Prunelle passerillée 2012 $ 25 - Laurent Cazottes (Sud-Ouest)

DIGESTIFS 30 cl Absinthe

Cognac Absinthe Verte ‘Douce Angélique’ $ 25 - Distillerie Awen Nature (Bretagne) Cognac VSOP ‘Pass’ange’ - Alain Chadutaud $ 30 Cognac Napoléon - Guy Pinard & Fils, La Tour Vert $ 30 Cognac XO Folle Blanche - Guy Pinard & Fils, La Tour Vert $ 35 Cognac Vieille Réserve ‘Pass’ange’ - Alain Chadutaud $ 40 46 Armagnac 47 Bas-Armagnac VSOP - Domaine de Saoubis $ 30 Bas-Armagnac ‘Hors d’Âge’ 2001 - Domaine de Saoubis $ 40

Whisky

Old Rhino Rye Whisky ‘Vulson’ $ 35 Organic Malt Whisky ‘Les Moissons’ $ 35 2010 Single Malt Organic Whisky ‘Flavis’ $ 65 - Domaine des Hautes Glaces (Alpes)

Gin

Gin Mist ‘Naturellement Trouble’ $ 25 - Distillerie Awen Nature (Bretagne) “ In water one sees one’s own face but in wine, one beholds the heart of another. ” – French Proverb 48 49 [ notes ] [ notes ]

50 51 [ notes ]

52