Summer Term This Week We Would Like You to Become Virtual Mountaineers…
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Mountaineering Books Under £10
Mountaineering Books Under £10 AUTHOR TITLE PUBLISHER EDITION CONDITION DESCRIPTION REFNo PRICE AA Publishing Focus On The Peak District AA Publishing 1997 First Edition 96pp, paperback, VG Includes walk and cycle rides. 49344 £3 Abell Ed My Father's Keep. A Journey Of Ed Abell 2013 First Edition 106pp, paperback, Fine copy The book is a story of hope for 67412 £9 Forgiveness Through The Himalaya. healing of our most complicated family relationships through understanding, compassion, and forgiveness, peace for ourselves despite our inability to save our loved ones from the ravages of addiction, and strength for the arduous yet enriching journey. Abraham Guide To Keswick & The Vale Of G.P. Abraham Ltd 20 page booklet 5890 £8 George D. Derwentwater Abraham Modern Mountaineering Methuen & Co 1948 3rd Edition 198pp, large bump to head of spine, Classic text from the rock climbing 5759 £6 George D. Revised slight slant to spine, Good in Good+ pioneer, covering the Alps, North dw. Wales and The Lake District. Abt Julius Allgau Landshaft Und Menschen Bergverlag Rudolf 1938 First Edition 143pp, inscription, text in German, VG- 10397 £4 Rother in G chipped dw. Aflalo F.G. Behind The Ranges. Parentheses Of Martin Secker 1911 First Edition 284pp, 14 illusts, original green cloth, Aflalo's wide variety of travel 10382 £8 Travel. boards are slightly soiled and marked, experiences. worn spot on spine, G+. Ahluwalia Major Higher Than Everest. Memoirs of a Vikas Publishing 1973 First Edition 188pp, Fair in Fair dw. Autobiography of one of the world's 5743 £9 H.P.S. Mountaineer House most famous mountaineers. -
Hillary, Edmund Percival •fi Te Ara Encyclopedia of New Zealand
Hillary, Edmund Percival – Te Ara Encyclopedia of New Zealand http://www.teara.govt.nz/en/biographies/6h1/hillary-edmund-percival/print Hillary, Edmund Percival by Shaun Barnett Early life On 29 May 1953 New Zealander Edmund Hillary and Nepali Tenzing Norgay, as part of a British team, reached the 8,848-metre summit of Mt Everest, the world’s highest mountain. This was the culmination of 12 serious attempts since 1921, including nine British expeditions. It coincided with the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II, adding to the media attention generated by the royal event. Family background Climbing Everest was a life-changing experience for a man with a humble background. Edmund Percival Hillary, born on 20 July 1919 at Auckland, was the second of three children of Percival Augustus Hillary and his wife, Gertrude Hillary, née Clark. The family lived in Tūākau, in rural South Auckland. Percy Hillary founded and edited the Tuakau District News, and as a sideline, took up beekeeping on land allotted to him after service in the First World War. He believed in healthy eating and exercise and had strong egalitarian beliefs. Percy was also a strict disciplinarian, and the young Edmund found his beatings for misdemeanours humiliating and often unjust. However, in his mother, Gertrude (a teacher), he found a more gentle and nurturing parent. Education After attending Tūākau Primary School Edmund went to Auckland Grammar School. Small and shy with a poor self-image, he nursed secret desires for adventure, and read books about mountains and the Antarctic on the long train journeys to and from school. -
Sir Edmund Hillary: a Reliable Hero
SIR EDMUND HILLARY The following article appeared in the Christchurch Press following Sir Edmund Hillary’s death on 11 January 2008. A Reliable Hero Philip Temple It was safe a very long time ago to put the image of Ed Hillary on our five dollar note. He is the only living person to have been so honoured because we knew we could risk putting our money on his reputation. He did not have to die first for us to be sure he would never let us down. From the moment he set foot on the summit of Mount Everest half a century ago Hillary has been New Zealand’s most reliable hero. Hillary grew up between the wars at Tuakau, south of Auckland. His father was editor of the local newspaper and later a bee-keeper. Hillary had a difficult, often confrontational relationship with him that reinforced an inborn determination never to give in or give up. Yet Hillary came to reflect his father’s ‘mixture of moral conservatism and fierce independence.’ The family was never flush with money and Hillary went barefoot to primary school summer or winter. There were few diversions save the local Tuakau flicks and he made his own entertainments with his brother and sister, or through reading and dreaming of adventure. Outside of his family, Hillary was socially isolated. He had to commute a long distance by train to high school and was treated as an awkward outsider. After his family moved into Auckland’s Remuera he spent two years at university and passed no exams and made no friends. -
A 1935 Yeti on the Rongbuk?
GEORGE BAND A 1935 Yeti on the Rongbuk? (Plate 51) local friend, Patsy Craven, was reading a review by Stephen Venables A in the Sunday Telegraph of 6 August 2000 on Reinhold Messner's recent book My Questfor the Yeti, when she remembered that she had a postcard size photograph of yeti footprints which on the reverse was pencilled 'Photo taken by Eric Shipton about 1935'. It had come from her stepfather Michae1 Roberts, who had married her mother in 1975, but died in 1977 in his 80s. He had commanded the 10th Gurkhas, retiring as a Brigadier. He had travelled widely in Nepal getting to know Eric Shipton quite well. He had been gassed in World War I, but attributed his recovery to breathing the high altitude Tibetan air. As he had a son also called Michae1, currently in his 70s, living in Oxford, I wondered whether he was related to another Michae1 Roberts, the late Janet Adam Smith's first husband, but apparently not. I tried to trace some reference to the footprints, but no book was ever written on the 1935 Everest Expedition led by Eric. Another friend Tony Astill is collecting material to remedy this deficiency. He tells me that no personal diary by Eric of the 1935 expedition has been recovered or is known to exist by the Royal Geographical Society, orby Peter Stee1e, his biographer, or by his son John. So we do not know precisely when or where Eric took this photograph (Plate 51) which shows a couple of rounded footprints together with the imprint of a booted foot and part of the shaft of an ice axe stuck in the snow, for comparison. -
Mount Everest, the Reconnaissance, It Was, Claimed Eric Shipton
The Forgotten Adventure: Mount Everest, The Reconnaissance, 1935. T o n y A s t i l l . F o r e w o r d b y L o r d H u n t . I ntroduction b y S i r E d m u n d H i l l a r y . S outhhampton : L e s A l p e s L i v r e , 2005. 359 PAGES, NUMEROUS BLACK & WHITE PHOTOGRAPHS, AND 2 FOLDING MAPS PLUS A UNIQUE DOUBLE DUST-JACKET OF A 1 9 3 5 c o l o r topographic c o u n t o u r m a p o f Mt. E v e r e s t ’ s n o r t h f a c e i n T i b e t b y M i c h a e l S p e n d e r . £ 3 0 . It was, claimed Eric Shipton famously, “a veritable orgy of moun tain climbing.” In May 1935, Britain’s best mountaineers, including Shipton, longtime climbing partner Bill Tilman, plus 15 Sherpas, among them a 19-year-old novice, Tenzing Norgay, embarked from Darjeeling on the fourth-ever Mt. Everest expedition. In large part because no expedition book was later penned by Shipton, their 27-year-old leader, the 1935 Everest Reconnaissance Expedi tion has remained largely unknown and unlauded. No more! Seven decades later, The Forgotten Adventure reveals the never-before-told climbing adventures of three of the twentieth-century mountaineerings most revered icons reveling in the Himalayan glory of their youth. -
Abominable Snowmen
86 Oryx ABOMINABLE SNOWMEN THE PRESENT POSITION By WILLIAM C. OSMAN HILL On ancient Indian maps the mountainous northern frontier is referred to as the Mahalangur-Himal, which may be trans- lated as the mountains of the big monkeys. In view of recent reports one naturally wonders whether the big monkeys referred to were the large langurs (Semnopithecus), which are known to ascend to the hills to altitudes of 12,000 feet, or to something still larger, which ranges to even higher altitudes. Ancient Tibetan books depict many representatives of the local fauna quite realistically, recognizably and in their correct natural settings. Among these, in addition to ordinary arboreal monkeys, is represented a large, erect, rock-dwelling creature of man-like shape, but covered with hair (Vlcek, 1959). One wonders whether this could relate to the cryptic being that has come to be known from the reports of Himalayan explorers and their Sherpa guides as the Abominable Snowman. Legends of large or smaller hairy man-like creatures which walk erect, possess savage dispositions and cause alarm to local humanity are rife in many parts of Asia (witness the stories of Nittaewo in Ceylon, Orang-pendek in Malaya, Almas in Mon- golia) and even in much more distant places (Sasquatch in British Columbia, Bigfoot in California and the Didi of the Guianan forests), to say nothing of similar legends from various parts of Africa. Among these the Yeti, or Abominable Snowman, is perhaps the most persistent. We are, however, at the present time, unaware of the real nature or origin of any one of these, though scores of supposedly correct solutions have been put forward in explanation by both zoologists and laymen. -
Harold William Tilman (1898-1978) a Tribute Peter L10yd and Colin Putt
Harold William Tilman (1898-1978) a tribute Peter L10yd and Colin Putt On I November 1977 the Cutter 'En Avant', a converted seagoing tug, skipper Simon Richardson, in wh ich Tilman was sailing as a member ofa crew of6, left Rio de Janeiro for Port Stanley en route to Smith Island in the South Shetlands. They never J'eached the Falkland Islands and there has been no news of them since that day; it seems unlikely now that we shall ever know how they perished. The loss of his young companions was tragic, but for Bill Tilman this was perhaps a fitting end to a life of action and adventure. He had fought in both world wars, winning front line decorations in each. In the twenties he carved a farm and coffee plantation out of the bush in Kenya. The thirties were the heyday of his African and Asian journeys which continued in the first 5 years after the war. Finally there was the remaJ'kable period of his seafaring ventures in Polar waters starting in 1954 and continuing right up to the end. Had this final expedition reached its objective he would have spent his 80th birthday in the Anta~ctic. It is a unique record. Tilman won the MC in 1917 at the age of 19, bar to the MC later that year, both on the Western front where he was twice wounded; in the Second World War he served in France, Iraq and in the N African campaign before being parachuted into Albania and N Italy to serve with the partisans, for which he was awarded the DSO and made a Freeman of the city of Belluno. -
The Modernisation of Elite British Mountaineering
The Modernisation of Elite British Mountaineering: Entrepreneurship, Commercialisation and the Career Climber, 1953-2000 Thomas P. Barcham Thesis submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirements of De Montfort University for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy Submission date: March 2018 Contents Abstract ................................................................................................................................................... 4 Acknowledgments ................................................................................................................................... 5 Table of Abbreviations and Acronyms .................................................................................................... 6 Table of Figures ....................................................................................................................................... 7 Chapter 1. Introduction .......................................................................................................................... 8 Literature Review ............................................................................................................................ 14 Definitions, Methodology and Structure ........................................................................................ 29 Chapter 2. 1953 to 1969 - Breaking a New Trail: The Early Search for Earnings in a Fast Changing Pursuit .................................................................................................................................................. -
Australian Mountaineering in the Great Ranges of Asia, 1922–1990
Images Image 2.1. George Finch (right) and Geoffrey Bruce at base camp, following their attempt on Mt Everest in 1922. Photo courtesy of the Royal Geographical Society 185 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Image 2.2. The oxygen apparatus, invented by George Finch, used on the 1922 and subsequent Everest expeditions. Photo courtesy of the Royal Geographical Society 186 IMAGES Image 2.3. George Finch on the 1922 Everest expedition, wearing the down-filled jacket that he invented. Photo from the Finch collection, first published in Finch (1924) 187 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Image 3.1. Surveying on the southern source of the Lolofond Glacier, Imperial College Karakoram expedition, 1957. Grahame Budd (left) and Geoff Bratt, using the theodolite Photo by Keith Miller Image 3.2. Members of the Imperial College Karakoram expedition, 1957. From left, back row: Keith Miller, Brian Amos, Peter Grimley, Eric Shipton Front row: Geoff Bratt, Chris Gravina, Roger Cratchley Photo by Grahame Budd 188 IMAGES Image 3.3. Jon Stephenson surveying on the 1960 Saltoro expedition, Karakoram, accompanied by Ishmael, a Balti high altitude porter. Photo provided by Jon Stephenson 189 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Image 3.4. Descending K12, 1960 Saltoro expedition, Karakoram, Pakistan. Photo by Jon Stephenson 190 IMAGES Image 3.5. Geoff Wayatt traversing across the “Wall of Shadows”, north face of Jannu, Nepal,1975. Photo provided by Geoff Waya 191 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Image 3.6. Geoff Wayatt at camp three on the north face of Jannu, Nepal, 1975. Photo provided by Geoff Wayatt 192 IMAGES Image 4.1a. : Young Australian climbers on an instructional course in New Zealand in 1965 based at Ball Hut, near Mt Cook: practising (a) river crossing, and (b) crevasse rescue. -
Mount Kenya Expeditions Trip Notes 2021/22
MOUNT KENYA 5,199M / 17,057FT 2021/22 EXPEDITION TRIP NOTES MOUNT KENYA EXPEDITION NOTES 2021/22 EXPEDITION DETAILS Dates: Trip 1: December 30, 2021 to 8 January 2022 Trip 2: June 23 to July 2, 2022 Duration: 10 days Departure: ex Nairobi, Kenya Price: US$17,900 1:1 guide to climber ratio US$15,900 2:2 guide to climber ratio (Per person, 2 climbers joining together) Glorious blue skies on the summit of Mount Kenya. Photo: Jon Bracey Mount Kenya is an extinct volcano with jagged peaks rising out of the heart of the Mount Kenya National Park in Africa. The second highest point in Africa, Mount Kenya is an exciting pre-climb to our Mount Kilimanjaro expedition or an adventure on its own. It has three main peaks; the highest and most difficult is Batian (5,199m/17,058ft), slightly lower is Nelion at (5,188m/17,020m) and lastly Lenana Peak (4,985m/16,355ft), which is a straightforward trekking route. Mount Kenya’s two higher peaks are permanently cloaked by snow and small glaciers and are home to ABOUT THE EXPEDITION an array of technical alpine climbs, delivering lively Mount Kenya is located in central Kenya, just south of contrast to the equatorial terrain on the approach. We the equator, around 150km/95 miles north-northeast of climb Batian Peak in the June/July season and Nelion Nairobi. The area around the mountain is protected in Peak in December/January, as these are the preferable the Mount Kenya National Park, which is a designated seasons for each climb. -
In Memoriam 2010, However Most of the Books Shortlisted Have Been Reviewed in Either This Volume Or 2009
402 T h e A l p i n e J o u r n A l 2 0 1 0 / 1 1 The Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature Space constraints in this two-year volume of the AJ prevent us following recent practice and reproducing the speeches of jury chairmen for 2009 or In Memoriam 2010, however most of the books shortlisted have been reviewed in either this volume or 2009. The prize of £3000 commemorates the lives of Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker and is given to the author or co-authors of an original work that has made an outstanding contribution to mountain liter- ature. On 17 May 1982 Boardman and Tasker were last seen on Mount The Alpine Club Obituary Year of Election Everest attempting to traverse The Pinnacles on the unclimbed north-east (including to ACG) ridge at around 8250m. Their deaths marked the end of a remarkable era Chris Astill 1985 in British mountaineering. Patrick (Paddy) Boulter 1972 The winners, shortlists and judges for 2009 and 2010 were as follows: Roger Childs 1997 Robert (Bob) Creswell 2007 2009 Robin Day 1968 John Edwards 1982 Winner: Beyond the Mountain by Steve House, Patagonia Books, USA Nawang Gombu Hon 1998 (Vertebrate Publishing in UK) Alistair Gordon 1993 Alfred Gregory 1952 (Hon 2004) Others shortlisted: Eileen Healey LAC 1947 Cairngorm John by John Allen, Sandstone Press Mike Hewson 1994 Hooker & Brown by Jerry Auld, Brindle & Glass, Canada Frederick Hill 1975 The Longest Climb by Dominic Faulkner, Virgin Books Peter Hodgkiss 1988 Revelations by Jerry Moffatt, Vertebrate Publishing John Kempe 1952 Deep Powder and Steep Rock -
Through the Ice Window to Nelion
116 Through the Ice Window to Nelion Richard AlIen The thrill of poring over the maps and guidebooks, the endless lists of food, clothing and equipment has brightened up many a long winter's evening. Oliver Turnbull and I had made detailed plans in February 1982 to spend a fortnight climbing on Mount Kenya. A painful flight to America following a routine dental appointment and filling convinced me that my tooth required further attention. Even if I could cope with the altitude it was clear that my tooth would not. The offer of an evil looking dental tool three days before our departure, to remove the filling if necessary, convinced me that this was not the time to go. We consoled ourselves over whisky and haggis in Glen Brittle, climbing the Black Cuillin in snow. A last minute decision by a British Minister in September 1984 to visit the new road being constructed between Thuchi and Nkubu to the east of the mountain gave me an excuse and opportunity I could not resist. Oliver was unable to join me at such short notice but through a colleague I contacted Peter Brettell who was prepared to climb with me although we had never met. Peter having lived in Nairobi for some years did not seem surprised when I phoned confirming I would only be able to spend four days on the mountain. His relaxed response, 'What route do you have in mind?' really puzzled me until he explained that he and Ian Howell frequently go up to the mountain for a weekend's climbing.