DOCSLIB.ORG

Eric Shipton's Secret History

Total Page：16

File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb

Download full-text PDF Read full-text
Eric Shipton's Secret History History Yewbarrow, Wastwater Edward Lear (1812-88) 16 September 1836. Graphite with stumping and white gouache on moderately thick, moderately textured, gray-green wove paper. 6¾ x 101/8 inches. Yale Center for British Art, gift of Donald C Gallup. 213 JONATHAN WESTAWAY Eric Shipton’s Secret History Peaks north-east of Zug Shaksgam from the point reached by Eric Shipton and Bill Tilman. (All images courtesy of the Shipton family) ric Shipton was notoriously circumspect about many aspects of his life Eand there is much that remains unexplained about his career and his motivations. Mountain travel books like Mountains of Tartary (1950) tell us next to nothing about the political context of his time as consul-general in Kashgar, Xinjiang in the years 1940-2 and 1946-8, indeed the text serves quite deliberately to deceive. Enmeshed in the apparatus of the British Imperial security state in Chinese Central Asia, Shipton became adept at covering his tracks by directing his readers’ attention elsewhere.1 At the heart of the Shipton story is a missing decade. Leaving Kashgar early in 1942 Shipton travelled through Soviet Central Asia, eventually ending up working for the Foreign Office as a consular official in Iran in March 1943, then under Allied-Soviet occupation. In the few lines he ever wrote about this 20-month period, he described his job as that of an agri- cultural adviser, a role he was singularly unqualified for. In his biography of Shipton, Peter Steele asserts that he was almost certainly undertaking 1. J Westaway, ‘That Undisclosed World: Eric Shipton’s Mountains of Tartary (1950)’, Studies in Travel Writing special issue on Xinjiang, vol 18 (4), 2014, pp357-73. 215 216 T HE A LPINE J OURN A L 2 0 1 7 E RIC S HIP T ON ’ S S ECRE T H I st OR Y 217 intelligence work in Iran.2 Leaving Iran in December 1944, by March 1945 A number of client states also secured the mountain frontier. Nepal he was working for the War Office as an attaché with the British Military remained nominally independent, its borders closed to outsiders, in return Mission in Hungary. In May 1946 he was posted to Vienna working for the for allowing the British Army of India to recruit to Gurkha regiments. United Nations Relief and Rehabilitation Administration. After a second Access to both Everest via Tibet and to the Karakoram via the Gilgit road spell in Kashgar, Shipton accepted the Foreign Office offer of the post was through nominally independent princely states that were politically of consul-general in Kunming, Yunnan, one of the last anti-Communist controlled by the British under a system of diarchy. North of Darjeeling, bridgeheads in Nationalist China, a post he held from the summer of 1949 Sikkim was controlled by a British political officer with British sepoys until expelled by the Chinese communists in the summer of 1951. periodically deployed deep into Tibet at Gyantse to protect the trade delega- In his early thirties at the start of the Second World War, Shipton’s tion there. The Karakoram were approached via Kashmir, British political wartime career is highly unusual. Far from joining the army in India or interests being watched over by the British resident in Srinagar. No one returning to England to enlist, he spent the war years and the start of the gained access to travel in these regions without political oversight and clear- Cold War working respectively for the External Affairs Department of the ance and by the mid-1930s there was a tightening of control. By 1936 the Government of India, the Foreign Office, the War Office and the United British had become so concerned about the potential for Soviet infiltration Nations, always in geographical locations immediately adjacent to Soviet from Xinjiang that they ended the system of diarchy in the Kashmiri tribute or Chinese communist spheres of influence. The Kashgar consulate was state of Gilgit and assumed direct rule. of prime geostrategic importance to the defence of British Imperial India, The year 1936 also seems to represent something of a turning point for situated at the junction of the Soviet, Chinese and British empires. His post- Eric Shipton. The 1936 Everest expedition, a complete failure, had only ing was highly prized and usually held by Indian Army officers seconded served to heighten his disillusion with large-scale expeditions. In July of that to the political branch of the Government of India which ran the Kashgar year Shipton was planning on lecturing in Simla and hoping to interview consulate, or held by career civil servants, the ‘heaven born’ of the Indian the viceroy and get him interested in his plans for exploration in Kashmir Civil Service. The question of how Shipton landed this prize posting when a request came through from the Survey of India.3 Major Gordon remains unanswered but it undoubtedly has a lot to do with his growing Osmaston of the Survey had spent the early part of 1936 surveying the entanglement with the agencies of the British imperial security state in Gangotri and Chaturangi glaciers in the northern Tehri Garhwal when he India from the mid-1930s, in particular his work with the Survey of India. was ordered by the surveyor-general to extend the survey to the east and The Survey of India’s role in compiling geographical intelligence on include the Nanda Devi Sanctuary. In his privately published memoirs, the un-demarcated border with Chinese Xinjiang had begun to assume Gordon Osmaston records that ‘knowing that Shipton had been exploring a greater geostrategic significance in the mid-1930s due to a number of round Everest, and was still in India, I wrote to him, asking if he would internal and external factors. Having ceded many government ministries come and act as my guide to Nanda Devi.’4 This seemingly informal request to Indian National Congress officials under the 1935 Government of India represented an extraordinary opportunity for Shipton. In many ways the Act, British imperial rule became increasingly concerned with the security Survey of India had already pioneered the model of lightweight expedi- of India’s borders, fuelled by ‘tribal’ and Islamist insurrections in the North- tionary travel that Shipton had been increasingly advocating.5 It put him West Frontier Province and the growing Soviet influence in Xinjiang. The in the pay of the Government of India and gave him unprecedented access increasingly problematized border zone of British India was also mountain to key individuals, such as the surveyor-general, Brigadier H J Couchman. frontier, running in a long arc from the Suleiman Mountains on the borders It presented the possibility that he might gain access to the restricted moun- of Afghanistan, through the Karakoram and the main Himalaya ranges, tain border zones of the Karakoram, where mountaineering skills, explora- to modern day Arunachal Pradesh and the Chittagong Hills on the borders tion and survey work were still required to fill in all of the blanks on the of Burma in the east. This mountain frontier was a tightly controlled politi- map. In 1936 Shipton was forced to make choices, always with his eye on cal zone. Various methods were used to control local populations and limit the bigger prize. Unable to both go to Everest and also join Bill Tilman on free movement within this zone. Both the North-West Frontier Province the British-American Himalayan Expedition to climb Nanda Devi, Shipton and the North-East Frontier Agency were extraterritorial political agencies chose Everest. Ascending the Rishi gorge on his way to the Nanda Devi where separate tribal law prevailed. Governed by political officers, the indig- Sanctuary with Osmaston, Shipton met members of the successful Hou- enous populations were kept in check by tribal levies and periodic punish- ston party returning from Nanda Devi. Shipton would have had to console ment campaigns by the Frontier Force. An Inner Line of Control stretched along the entire frontier, outsiders requiring official permission to cross. 3. J Perrin, Shipton and Tilman: The Great Decade of Himalayan Exploration London, 2013, p267. 4. G Osmaston, Memories of Surveying in India 1919-1939, T G Osmaston (ed), Windermere, 2005, p32. 5. K Mason, Abode of Snow: A History of Himalayan Exploration and Mountaineering London, Rupert Hart-David, 2. P Steele, Eric Shipton: Everest and Beyond, London, Constable, 1998, pp118-23. 1955. 218 T HE A LPINE J OURN A L 2 0 1 7 E RIC S HIP T ON ’ S S ECRE T H I st OR Y 219 himself on missing out on the first ascent of Nanda Devi with the thought The colossal impact of large-scale expeditions, with men absent at harvest that he had set out on a course of action that would facilitate his ready time and the inevitable toll of porter deaths, all meant that the authorities access to restricted mountain zones beyond the Inner Line in northern were extremely reluctant to provide access to multiple large-scale expedi- Kashmir. That this was already uppermost in Shipton’s plans in the summer tions in any one year in economically and environmentally fragile moun- of 1936 becomes immediately apparent in a set of documents from the tain regions. The authorities were also at pains to point out to Shipton the former India Office Library, now held at the British Library in London. politically sensitive nature of the border region. On 22 September 1936, In undertaking government survey work, Shipton became the subject Menon wrote to Shipton from Simla. With reference to their conversation of attention of the British imperial security state, the External Affairs of 28 July 1936, Menon informed him that permission had been granted Department of the Government of India, which opened a ‘Travellers’ file ‘to your proposed visit to Shingshal (Hunza) and the Shaksgam (Leh) in on him in 1936, maintaining it until 1944.6 In many ways there is nothing 1937’, going on to point out that unusual in this.
Load more

Recommended publications
  • Glaciers in Xinjiang, China: Past Changes and Current Status
    water Article Glaciers in Xinjiang, China: Past Changes and Current Status Puyu Wang 1,2,3,*, Zhongqin Li 1,3,4, Hongliang Li 1,2, Zhengyong Zhang 3, Liping Xu 3 and Xiaoying Yue 1 1 State Key Laboratory of Cryosphere Science/Tianshan Glaciological Station, Northwest Institute of Eco-Environment and Resources, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Lanzhou 730000, China; [email protected] (Z.L.); [email protected] (H.L.); [email protected] (X.Y.) 2 University of Chinese Academy of Sciences, Beijing 100049, China 3 College of Sciences, Shihezi University, Shihezi 832000, China; [email protected] (Z.Z.); [email protected] (L.X.) 4 College of Geography and Environment Sciences, Northwest Normal University, Lanzhou 730070, China * Correspondence: [email protected] Received: 18 June 2020; Accepted: 11 August 2020; Published: 24 August 2020 Abstract: The Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region of China is the largest arid region in Central Asia, and is heavily dependent on glacier melt in high mountains for water supplies. In this paper, glacier and climate changes in Xinjiang during the past decades were comprehensively discussed based on glacier inventory data, individual monitored glacier observations, recent publications, as well as meteorological records. The results show that glaciers have been in continuous mass loss and dimensional shrinkage since the 1960s, although there are spatial differences between mountains and sub-regions, and the significant temperature increase is the dominant controlling factor of glacier change. The mass loss of monitored glaciers in the Tien Shan has accelerated since the late 1990s, but has a slight slowing after 2010. Remote sensing results also show a more negative mass balance in the 2000s and mass loss slowing in the latest decade (2010s) in most regions.
    [Show full text]
  • Hillary, Edmund Percival •fi Te Ara Encyclopedia of New Zealand
    Hillary, Edmund Percival – Te Ara Encyclopedia of New Zealand http://www.teara.govt.nz/en/biographies/6h1/hillary-edmund-percival/print Hillary, Edmund Percival by Shaun Barnett Early life On 29 May 1953 New Zealander Edmund Hillary and Nepali Tenzing Norgay, as part of a British team, reached the 8,848-metre summit of Mt Everest, the world’s highest mountain. This was the culmination of 12 serious attempts since 1921, including nine British expeditions. It coincided with the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II, adding to the media attention generated by the royal event. Family background Climbing Everest was a life-changing experience for a man with a humble background. Edmund Percival Hillary, born on 20 July 1919 at Auckland, was the second of three children of Percival Augustus Hillary and his wife, Gertrude Hillary, née Clark. The family lived in Tūākau, in rural South Auckland. Percy Hillary founded and edited the Tuakau District News, and as a sideline, took up beekeeping on land allotted to him after service in the First World War. He believed in healthy eating and exercise and had strong egalitarian beliefs. Percy was also a strict disciplinarian, and the young Edmund found his beatings for misdemeanours humiliating and often unjust. However, in his mother, Gertrude (a teacher), he found a more gentle and nurturing parent. Education After attending Tūākau Primary School Edmund went to Auckland Grammar School. Small and shy with a poor self-image, he nursed secret desires for adventure, and read books about mountains and the Antarctic on the long train journeys to and from school.
    [Show full text]
  • Glaciers in Pakistan | World General Knowledge
    Glaciers in Pakistan | World General Knowledge With 7,253 known glaciers, including 543 in the Chitral Valley, there is more glacial ice in Pakistan than anywhere on Earth outside the polar regions, according to various studies. Those glaciers feed rivers that account for about 75 percent of the stored-water supply in the country of at least 200 million. But as in many other parts of the world, researchers say, Pakistan’s glaciers are receding, especially those at lower elevations, including here in the Hindu Kush mountain range in northern Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province. Among the causes cited by scientists: diminished snowfall, higher temperatures, heavier summer rainstorms and rampant deforestation. 1) Baltoro Glacier The glacier at 63km in length is one of the largest land glaciers on Earth. It can be accessed through Gilgit-Baltistan region. The glacier gives rise to the Shigar River. 2) Batura Glacier At 53 km in length, the Batura Glacier is up there with the biggest in the world. It lies in the Batura Valley in the Gojal region of Gilgit Baltistan. 3) Biafo Glacier The Biago Glacier is 67kms long and the third biggest land glacier in the entire world. Mango, Baintha and Namla are campsites set up near the glacier and can be accessed through the Askole Village of Gilgit-Baltistan. 4) Panmah Glacier Located in the Central Karakoram National Park, Gilgit-Baltistan, 5) Rupal Glacier It is the source of the Rupal River and lies in the Great Himalayas. It is South of the Nanga Parbat and North of Laila Peak. Downloaded from www.csstimes.pk | 1 Glaciers in Pakistan | World General Knowledge 6) Sarpo Laggo The glacier flows from Pakistan to China just north of the Baltoro Muztagh Range.
    [Show full text]
  • Sir Edmund Hillary: a Reliable Hero
    SIR EDMUND HILLARY The following article appeared in the Christchurch Press following Sir Edmund Hillary’s death on 11 January 2008. A Reliable Hero Philip Temple It was safe a very long time ago to put the image of Ed Hillary on our five dollar note. He is the only living person to have been so honoured because we knew we could risk putting our money on his reputation. He did not have to die first for us to be sure he would never let us down. From the moment he set foot on the summit of Mount Everest half a century ago Hillary has been New Zealand’s most reliable hero. Hillary grew up between the wars at Tuakau, south of Auckland. His father was editor of the local newspaper and later a bee-keeper. Hillary had a difficult, often confrontational relationship with him that reinforced an inborn determination never to give in or give up. Yet Hillary came to reflect his father’s ‘mixture of moral conservatism and fierce independence.’ The family was never flush with money and Hillary went barefoot to primary school summer or winter. There were few diversions save the local Tuakau flicks and he made his own entertainments with his brother and sister, or through reading and dreaming of adventure. Outside of his family, Hillary was socially isolated. He had to commute a long distance by train to high school and was treated as an awkward outsider. After his family moved into Auckland’s Remuera he spent two years at university and passed no exams and made no friends.
    [Show full text]
  • A 1935 Yeti on the Rongbuk?
    GEORGE BAND A 1935 Yeti on the Rongbuk? (Plate 51) local friend, Patsy Craven, was reading a review by Stephen Venables A in the Sunday Telegraph of 6 August 2000 on Reinhold Messner's recent book My Questfor the Yeti, when she remembered that she had a postcard­ size photograph of yeti footprints which on the reverse was pencilled 'Photo taken by Eric Shipton about 1935'. It had come from her stepfather Michae1 Roberts, who had married her mother in 1975, but died in 1977 in his 80s. He had commanded the 10th Gurkhas, retiring as a Brigadier. He had travelled widely in Nepal getting to know Eric Shipton quite well. He had been gassed in World War I, but attributed his recovery to breathing the high altitude Tibetan air. As he had a son also called Michae1, currently in his 70s, living in Oxford, I wondered whether he was related to another Michae1 Roberts, the late Janet Adam Smith's first husband, but apparently not. I tried to trace some reference to the footprints, but no book was ever written on the 1935 Everest Expedition led by Eric. Another friend Tony Astill is collecting material to remedy this deficiency. He tells me that no personal diary by Eric of the 1935 expedition has been recovered or is known to exist by the Royal Geographical Society, orby Peter Stee1e, his biographer, or by his son John. So we do not know precisely when or where Eric took this photograph (Plate 51) which shows a couple of rounded footprints together with the imprint of a booted foot and part of the shaft of an ice­ axe stuck in the snow, for comparison.
    [Show full text]
  • Ground Water Scenario of Himalaya Region, India
    Hkkjr ds fgeky;h {ks=k dk Hkwty ifjn`'; Ground Water Scenario of Himalayan Region, India laiknu@Edited By: lq'khy xqIrk v/;{k Sushil Gupta Chairman Central Ground Water Board dsanzh; Hkwfe tycksMZ Ministry of Water Resources ty lalk/ku ea=kky; Government of India Hkkjr ljdkj 2014 Hkkjr ds fgeky;h {ks=k dk Hkwty ifjn`'; vuqØef.kdk dk;Zdkjh lkjka'k i`"B 1- ifjp; 1 2- ty ekSle foKku 23 3- Hkw&vkd`fr foKku 34 4- ty foKku vkSj lrgh ty mi;kst~;rk 50 5- HkwfoKku vkSj foorZfudh 58 6- Hkwty foKku 73 7- ty jlk;u foKku 116 8- Hkwty lalk/ku laHkko~;rk 152 9- Hkkjr ds fgeky;h {ks=k esa Hkwty fodkl ds laca/k esa vfHktkr fo"k; vkSj leL;k,a 161 10- Hkkjr ds fgeky;h {ks=k ds Hkwty fodkl gsrq dk;Zuhfr 164 lanHkZ lwph 179 Ground Water Scenario of Himalayan Region of India CONTENTS Executive Summary i Pages 1. Introduction 1 2. Hydrometeorology 23 3. Geomorphology 34 4. Hydrology and Surface Water Utilisation 50 5. Geology and Tectonics 58 6. Hydrogeology 73 7. Hydrochemistry 116 8. Ground Water Resource Potential 152 9. Issues and problems identified in respect of Ground Water Development 161 in Himalayan Region of India 10. Strategies and plan for Ground Water Development in Himalayan Region of India 164 Bibliography 179 ifêdkvks dh lwph I. iz'kklfud ekufp=k II. Hkw vkd`fr ekufp=k III. HkwoSKkfud ekufp=k d- fgeky; ds mRrjh vkSj if'peh [kaM [k- fgeky; ds iwohZ vkSj mRrj iwohZ [kaM rFkk iwoksZRrj jkT; IV.
    [Show full text]
  • Mount Everest, the Reconnaissance, It Was, Claimed Eric Shipton
    The Forgotten Adventure: Mount Everest, The Reconnaissance, 1935. T o n y A s t i l l . F o r e w o r d b y L o r d H u n t . I ntroduction b y S i r E d m u n d H i l l a r y . S outhhampton : L e s A l p e s L i v r e , 2005. 359 PAGES, NUMEROUS BLACK & WHITE PHOTOGRAPHS, AND 2 FOLDING MAPS PLUS A UNIQUE DOUBLE DUST-JACKET OF A 1 9 3 5 c o l o r topographic c o u n t o u r m a p o f Mt. E v e r e s t ’ s n o r t h f a c e i n T i b e t b y M i c h a e l S p e n d e r . £ 3 0 . It was, claimed Eric Shipton famously, “a veritable orgy of moun­ tain climbing.” In May 1935, Britain’s best mountaineers, including Shipton, longtime climbing partner Bill Tilman, plus 15 Sherpas, among them a 19-year-old novice, Tenzing Norgay, embarked from Darjeeling on the fourth-ever Mt. Everest expedition. In large part because no expedition book was later penned by Shipton, their 27-year-old leader, the 1935 Everest Reconnaissance Expedi­ tion has remained largely unknown and unlauded. No more! Seven decades later, The Forgotten Adventure reveals the never-before-told climbing adventures of three of the twentieth-century mountaineerings most revered icons reveling in the Himalayan glory of their youth.
    [Show full text]
  • Abominable Snowmen
    86 Oryx ABOMINABLE SNOWMEN THE PRESENT POSITION By WILLIAM C. OSMAN HILL On ancient Indian maps the mountainous northern frontier is referred to as the Mahalangur-Himal, which may be trans- lated as the mountains of the big monkeys. In view of recent reports one naturally wonders whether the big monkeys referred to were the large langurs (Semnopithecus), which are known to ascend to the hills to altitudes of 12,000 feet, or to something still larger, which ranges to even higher altitudes. Ancient Tibetan books depict many representatives of the local fauna quite realistically, recognizably and in their correct natural settings. Among these, in addition to ordinary arboreal monkeys, is represented a large, erect, rock-dwelling creature of man-like shape, but covered with hair (Vlcek, 1959). One wonders whether this could relate to the cryptic being that has come to be known from the reports of Himalayan explorers and their Sherpa guides as the Abominable Snowman. Legends of large or smaller hairy man-like creatures which walk erect, possess savage dispositions and cause alarm to local humanity are rife in many parts of Asia (witness the stories of Nittaewo in Ceylon, Orang-pendek in Malaya, Almas in Mon- golia) and even in much more distant places (Sasquatch in British Columbia, Bigfoot in California and the Didi of the Guianan forests), to say nothing of similar legends from various parts of Africa. Among these the Yeti, or Abominable Snowman, is perhaps the most persistent. We are, however, at the present time, unaware of the real nature or origin of any one of these, though scores of supposedly correct solutions have been put forward in explanation by both zoologists and laymen.
    [Show full text]
  • Monitoring Ice-Dammed Glacier Lake Outburst Floods in the Karakoram Using Visible-Infrared Satellite Remote Sensing Observations
    Monitoring Ice-dammed Glacier Lake Outburst Floods in the Karakoram Using Visible-Infrared Satellite Remote Sensing Observations by Jeffrey Chan A thesis presented to the University of Waterloo in the fulfilment of the thesis requirement for the degree of Master of Science In Geography Waterloo, Ontario , Canada 2015 © Jeffrey Chan 2015 i Author’s Declaration I hereby declare that I am the sole author of this thesis. This is a true copy of the thesis, including any required final revisions, as accepted by my examiners I understand that my thesis may be made electronically available to the public. ii Abstract Glaciers are an important part of the hydrological cycle because they act as freshwater storage. Glacier ice contains about three-quarters of the world’s freshwater; supplying most of the base flow for rivers originating from high mountains (National Snow & Ice Data Centre, 2015). Glacial Lake Outburst Floods (GLOFs) are one of the common natural hazards in high mountain environments. The lack of a long term and regional GLOF monitoring program in the high mountain, has posed significant challenges in understanding the relationship between glacier mechanics and GLOFs in a changing climate. Remote sensing observations from space offer a promising alternative to reduce the number of in situ field surveys used to monitor glaciers and GLOFs. This thesis contextualizes the physical characteristics and hydrological, climatological, and societal importance of the Karakoram glaciers. Various approaches in GLOF monitoring and modelling are discussed in detail. The resulting objective of this research is to assess the practicality of modeling ice-dammed GLOFs using visible-infrared satellite observations and digital elevation models (DEM) available in the public domain.
    [Show full text]
  • Harold William Tilman (1898-1978) a Tribute Peter L10yd and Colin Putt
    Harold William Tilman (1898-1978) a tribute Peter L10yd and Colin Putt On I November 1977 the Cutter 'En Avant', a converted seagoing tug, skipper Simon Richardson, in wh ich Tilman was sailing as a member ofa crew of6, left Rio de Janeiro for Port Stanley en route to Smith Island in the South Shetlands. They never J'eached the Falkland Islands and there has been no news of them since that day; it seems unlikely now that we shall ever know how they perished. The loss of his young companions was tragic, but for Bill Tilman this was perhaps a fitting end to a life of action and adventure. He had fought in both world wars, winning front line decorations in each. In the twenties he carved a farm and coffee plantation out of the bush in Kenya. The thirties were the heyday of his African and Asian journeys which continued in the first 5 years after the war. Finally there was the remaJ'kable period of his seafaring ventures in Polar waters starting in 1954 and continuing right up to the end. Had this final expedition reached its objective he would have spent his 80th birthday in the Anta~ctic. It is a unique record. Tilman won the MC in 1917 at the age of 19, bar to the MC later that year, both on the Western front where he was twice wounded; in the Second World War he served in France, Iraq and in the N African campaign before being parachuted into Albania and N Italy to serve with the partisans, for which he was awarded the DSO and made a Freeman of the city of Belluno.
    [Show full text]
  • Australian Mountaineering in the Great Ranges of Asia, 1922–1990
    Images Image 2.1. George Finch (right) and Geoffrey Bruce at base camp, following their attempt on Mt Everest in 1922. Photo courtesy of the Royal Geographical Society 185 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Image 2.2. The oxygen apparatus, invented by George Finch, used on the 1922 and subsequent Everest expeditions. Photo courtesy of the Royal Geographical Society 186 IMAGES Image 2.3. George Finch on the 1922 Everest expedition, wearing the down-filled jacket that he invented. Photo from the Finch collection, first published in Finch (1924) 187 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Image 3.1. Surveying on the southern source of the Lolofond Glacier, Imperial College Karakoram expedition, 1957. Grahame Budd (left) and Geoff Bratt, using the theodolite Photo by Keith Miller Image 3.2. Members of the Imperial College Karakoram expedition, 1957. From left, back row: Keith Miller, Brian Amos, Peter Grimley, Eric Shipton Front row: Geoff Bratt, Chris Gravina, Roger Cratchley Photo by Grahame Budd 188 IMAGES Image 3.3. Jon Stephenson surveying on the 1960 Saltoro expedition, Karakoram, accompanied by Ishmael, a Balti high altitude porter. Photo provided by Jon Stephenson 189 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Image 3.4. Descending K12, 1960 Saltoro expedition, Karakoram, Pakistan. Photo by Jon Stephenson 190 IMAGES Image 3.5. Geoff Wayatt traversing across the “Wall of Shadows”, north face of Jannu, Nepal,1975. Photo provided by Geoff Waya 191 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Image 3.6. Geoff Wayatt at camp three on the north face of Jannu, Nepal, 1975. Photo provided by Geoff Wayatt 192 IMAGES Image 4.1a. : Young Australian climbers on an instructional course in New Zealand in 1965 based at Ball Hut, near Mt Cook: practising (a) river crossing, and (b) crevasse rescue.
    [Show full text]
  • With the Disruption in Corporate Hospitals, Underpaid Medical Professionals and Neighbourhood Nursing Homes Are Stepping Into the Breach by V Shoba
    www.openthemagazine.com 50 2 NOVEMBER /2020 OPEN VOLUME 12 ISSUE 43 2 NOVEMBER 2020 CONTENTS 2 NOVEMBER 2020 5 6 12 14 16 18 20 22 LOCOMOTIF OPEN DIARY THE INSIDER INDIAN ACCENTS TOUCHSTONE OPINION WHISPERER OPEN ESSAY The trial By Swapan Dasgupta By PR Ramesh Reimagining An American Left, right and By Jayanta Ghosal Mao against then and now the Gita folk tale nowhere Nehru By S Prasannarajan By Bibek Debroy By Keerthik Sasidharan By Minhaz Merchant By Iqbal Chand Malhotra 28 HOW ILL IS INDIA’S 28 HEALTH SECTOR? With government hospitals overburdened, bottomlines of private ones wiped out, and an insurance system that seems to be unable to wrap its head around the pandemic, Covid-19 has laid bare India’s health infrastructure By Lhendup G Bhutia 34 BE PATIENT Being non-Covid patients in the time of a pandemic By Nikita Doval 16 5 38 DOCTORS JUMPING BORDERS With the disruption in corporate hospitals, underpaid medical professionals and neighbourhood nursing homes are stepping into the breach By V Shoba 22 44 PUNJABI RAP Political brinkmanship in Punjab has taken a dangerous turn after the farm reform laws By Siddharth Singh 56 48 LETTER FROM LAHORE Land without small mercies By Mehr Tarar 52 52 56 60 65 66 BEHOLDEN TO THE ‘THE TIDE IS SHIFTING AWAY FROM THE INVISIBLE OTHER HOLLYWOOD REPORTER NOT PEOPLE LIKE US FATHER FIGURE MALE SUPREMACY’ What makes us who we are? Ewan McGregor on his A new beginning Sofia Coppola on her departure Parvathy on the Kerala Increasingly in popular culture new docu-series Long Way Up By Rajeev Masand from
    [Show full text]