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4000 M Peaks of the Alps Normal and Classic Routes
rock&ice 3 4000 m Peaks of the Alps Normal and classic routes idea Montagna editoria e alpinismo Rock&Ice l 4000m Peaks of the Alps l Contents CONTENTS FIVE • • 51a Normal Route to Punta Giordani 257 WEISSHORN AND MATTERHORN ALPS 175 • 52a Normal Route to the Vincent Pyramid 259 • Preface 5 12 Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey 101 35 Dent d’Hérens 180 • 52b Punta Giordani-Vincent Pyramid 261 • Introduction 6 • 12 North Face Right 102 • 35a Normal Route 181 Traverse • Geogrpahic location 14 13 Gran Pilier d’Angle 108 • 35b Tiefmatten Ridge (West Ridge) 183 53 Schwarzhorn/Corno Nero 265 • Technical notes 16 • 13 South Face and Peuterey Ridge 109 36 Matterhorn 185 54 Ludwigshöhe 265 14 Mont Blanc de Courmayeur 114 • 36a Hörnli Ridge (Hörnligrat) 186 55 Parrotspitze 265 ONE • MASSIF DES ÉCRINS 23 • 14 Eccles Couloir and Peuterey Ridge 115 • 36b Lion Ridge 192 • 53-55 Traverse of the Three Peaks 266 1 Barre des Écrins 26 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable 117 37 Dent Blanche 198 56 Signalkuppe 269 • 1a Normal Route 27 15 L’Isolée 117 • 37 Normal Route via the Wandflue Ridge 199 57 Zumsteinspitze 269 • 1b Coolidge Couloir 30 16 Pointe Carmen 117 38 Bishorn 202 • 56-57 Normal Route to the Signalkuppe 270 2 Dôme de Neige des Écrins 32 17 Pointe Médiane 117 • 38 Normal Route 203 and the Zumsteinspitze • 2 Normal Route 32 18 Pointe Chaubert 117 39 Weisshorn 206 58 Dufourspitze 274 19 Corne du Diable 117 • 39 Normal Route 207 59 Nordend 274 TWO • GRAN PARADISO MASSIF 35 • 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable Traverse 118 40 Ober Gabelhorn 212 • 58a Normal Route to the Dufourspitze -
One Hundred Years Ago (With Extracts from the Alpine Journal)
CA RUSSELL One Hundred Years Ago (with extracts from the Alpine Journal) (Plates 57-61) he fIrst attempt to ascend Mont Blanc in the twentieth centuryl was T made on Thursday, but without success. Even before the Pierre Pointue was reached the snow was found to be so deep that racquettes had to be used, while at the Grand Junction of the Glacier de Taconna progress was rendered very difficult from the same cause. On reaching Grands Mulets (10,007 feet), it was decided to give up the task of reaching the actual summit owing to the great depth of the snow and the intense cold, and signs ofwind. Moreover, one of the guides was suffering from frostbite. The party, consisting of Mr. Crofts and the guides Joseph Demarchi, Fran~ois Mugnier and Jules Monard spent the night at the Grands Mulets, and descended to Chamonix next morning. The severe conditions experienced by Mr Crofts' party on 17 January 1901 were prolonged by exceptionally cold winds which persisted for several weeks in many Alpine regions. Although little mountaineering was possi ble the fust ski ascents of two peaks were completed: on 30 March Henry Hoek and Ernst Schottelius climbed the Dammastock; and on 28 May Schottelius, accompanied by Friedrich Reichert, reached the summit of the Oberaarhorn. A period of fine weather which commenced in May prompted an early start to the climbing season and by the end of the fIrst week in June a number of successful expeditions had been completed. Throughout Switzerland glorious, warm weather is being experienced, and with it Alpine climbing has begun in real earnest. -
L E Gobe-Mouches
Martigny, lundi 13 avril 1936. 76me année No 44. LE CONFÉDÉRÉ ABONNEMENTS : ORGANE DES UBÊRAUX-RADICAUX VALAISANS SUISSE i Un an ... fr. 8.— PARAISSANT A MARTIGNY ANNONCES RÉCLAMES Avec ,.Bulletin officiel" fr. 12.50 la mm. ligna • le mm. ligna ÉTRANGER i Un an . fr. 16.- ou son espace 2 colonnes/si mm. Avec ..Bulletin officiel" fr. 21.— RÉDACTION. ADMINISTRATION ET ANNONCES : 8 et Canton 20 et (Expédition un* fols par samalna ensemble) 10 et Suisse 30 et Cwpti di Chèques postaux : Il c. 58 Avenue de la Gare IN/IARTIGNY Avenue des Acacias 10 et Etranger 30 et \ Avis mortuaires (2 coi.) 20 eet t | H Joindra 20 et. en timbras posta I-I TÉLÉPHONES: Rédaction No 31. Administration et Annonces N° 2.52 à toute demande de changement d'adresse [ Cimpte M Chèques postaux II ci., 500 j Régie des Annonces : ORELL FUSSLI-ANNONCES, Martigny, Avenue de la gare et succursales dans toutes les principales villes suisses. Lettre de Fribourg NOTRE DEFENSE NATIONALE se rend compte de cette élémentaire vérité. L'heu re n'est plus aux arguties et aux intérêts de parti — comme le croit encore M. Grimm — mais le A propos de moment est venu de se déclarer nettement et ca le Gobe-Mouches tégoriquement pour ou contre la défense natio nale. Le parti socialiste suisse serait donc bien Le public fribourgeois qui s'intéresse à la poli- I ge au tribunal de la Sarine. Occasion unique de plans stratégiques inspiré de faire son choix et d'agir en conséquence. tique a eu avec infiniment d'intérêt l'interview que montrer que les belles promesses, pour une fois, Il importe, en effet, vis-à-vis de l'étranger, que le M. -
The Alpine Club Library
206 The Alpine Club Library. The entire text of the second edition is revised, rearranged, and rewritten, and the authors have not only simplified the general plan of the guide, but, acting on the advice of the reviewers of the first edition, have added a number of new features, and at the same time have not increased the bulk of the volume. The plan of listing peaks alphabetically within their groups has been retained, and to each peak is added not only the altitude, but the rna p reference number and a key letter indicating its oceanic watershed. It has been considered undesirable to retain the earlier sectional sketch maps, and instead a general key-map has been included. A new feature, noticeably absent from the first edition, is an index of passes with appropriate textual references. A glance at the index of peaks reveals in italics how many mountains in the Rockies are but tenta tively named ; and it is to be hop~ed most emphatically that the decisions of the Geographic Board of Canada, in confirming or revising the suggestions of pioneer mountaineers, will be arrived at with more wisdom and appropriateness, and less regard for passing political fancy, than has been evinced in the recent past. • N. E. 0 . THE ALPINE CLUB LIBRARY. By A. J. MAcKINTOSH. The following works have been added to the Library: • Club Publications . (1) Akad. Alpenclub Bern. 25. · Jahresbericht 1929-30. 9 x 5! : pp. 34 : plates. (2) t\kad. Alpenclub Ziiric~ 34. Jahresbericht. 9 x 6: pp. 43. 1929 (3b) Akad. -
One Hundred Years Ago C. A. Russell
One hundred years ago (with extracts from the Alpine Journal) C. A. Russell 'Before the end of January the sunward-sloping meadows round Glarus were already carpeted with flowers, the birds had begun their songs, and the sun shone with a brilliancy more suited to i\Iay than midwinter.' The temperatures recorded in the Alps during the first months of 1872 were unusually high and the weather during the early part of the climbing season was considerably better-it could hardly have been worse-than that of the previous year. Throughout June the favourable weather continued in all the principal regions: in the Dolomites F. F. Tuckett, with Christian Lauener and Santo Siorpaes, completed a new route on the western side of the Marmo lata, while in the Bernese Oberland the North-east ridge of the Studerhorn was climbed for the first time by A. W. Moore and Horace Walker, with Melchior and Jakob Anderegg. The first important new route of the season was achieved on 2 July, when T. S. Kennedy, with Johann Fischer and J. A. Carrel, succeeded in climbing the South-west face of Mont Blanc by way of the Italian Miage glacier and the Rocher du Mont Blanc, reaching the Bosses ridge near the Rochers de la Tournette. After a bivouac on some convenient rocks the party started at 3am and some eight hours later, having surmounted the last steep slopes of the face, they sat down to lunch and surveyed the scene. 'To the left and much below us lay the Dome du Goute, its ridge sweeping up grandly until we lost it behind some big rocks. -
Fell and Rock Climbing Club of the ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT VOL
THE Fell and Rock Climbing Club OF THE ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT VOL. 8. 1980. No. 8. LIST OF OFFICERS. President: G. BASTERFIELD Vice-Presidents: G. S. BOWER G. A. SOLLY Honorary Editor of Journal: MRS. R. S. T. CHORLEY, The Rookery, Stanmore, Middlesex. Assistant Hon. Editor: GRAHAM WILSON, High Bield, Loose, Maidstone. from whom the journal may be obtained. Honorary Librarian: Miss M. M. CAIN, Rosebank House, Ramsbottom, nr. Manchester. Honorary Secretary: J. C. APPLEYARD, Greystones, Torver, Coniston, Lanes. Honorary Treasurer: W. G. MILLIGAN, 59 Croslands Park, Barrow. Trustees of Club Funds: A. P. ABRAHAM, F. L. COOK and G. A. SOLLY Members of Committee: P. D. BOOTHROYD G. G. MACPHEE T. R. BURNETT L. H. POLLITT MRS. B. EDEN-SMITH L. W. SOMERVELL Miss M. FITZGIBBON A W. WAKEFIELD A. T. HARGREAVES Miss K. WARD D. LEIGHTON E. WOOD-JOHNSON Honorary Members: GEORGE D. ABRAHAM BRIG.-GEN. THE HON. C. G. BRUCE BENTLEY BEETHAM J. NORMAN COLLIE W. P. HASKETT-SMITH GEOFFREY HASTINGS THB RT. HON. LORD LECONFIELD LT.-COL. E. F. NORTON N. E. ODELL E. H. P. SCANTLEBURY GODFREY A. SOLLY T. HOWARD SOMERVELL ARTHUR W. WAKEFIBLD L. R. WILBERFORCE GEOFFREY WINTHROP YOUNG ■-*<*& Photo by R C. Waktfield LITTLE PETERMANN AND PETERMANN PEAK, SEEN FROM THE E. PETERMANN PEAK 275 attention more than anything else, and that was a monstrous pyramid of ice to the west, rising about 4,850 feet above a high mountain ridge. This glorious peak could bear none other name than that of Petermann, the honoured originator of the first German Arctic Expedition." With only a rough sketch made in 1926 among the Cambridge Peaks from which to decide a route, we were on our way up to the first proposed camp by 5 p.m. -
DUFOURSPITZE 4634M – SE RIDGE
DUFOURSPITZE 4634m – SE RIDGE Dufourspitze 4634m in the Monte Rosa area is the highest mountain in Switzerland and the second highest in the Alps. The SE ridge, Italian regular route, offers a nice climbing on mixt terrain and incredible landscapes. Program: 1st day: Meeting with the guide in Staffal around 14:00p.m. - Equipment check. We will take the cable car up to Punta Indren. From there we easily hike up to the Gnifetti hut, where we overnight. 1:00 hours - 370m 2nd day: Departure around 3:00 depending on the period of the year. We will follow the trail going to Margherita hut until the Gnifetti Pass; from here, we climb first the Zumsteinspitze 4563m and then we start the exposed descent to Grenzsattel. We will follow the ridge and will climb up in rock (II-III) and snow until the Grenzgipfel. From the Grenzgipfel we climb mostly in rock (III) traversing the ridge to the summit of Dufourspitze 4634m. On the way back we will follow the same itinerary. After a stop to Gnifetti hut, we go back to the cable car and the valley. 6:30 hour’s 1100m 5-6 hours 1500m You have to know: Accommodation: Gnifetti hut CAI (3647m) with half board service. Only to very well acclimatized people, we can suggest to sleep at the Margherita hut. Meeting point: At 14:00p.m. in our office in Staffal (Hotel Nordend near to the bar FZRY). Requirements: Steep terrain, exposed snow ridges and rock climbing up to grade III°. You should have already made similar tours. -
Alpine Notes
ALPINE NOTES ALPINE NOTES Year of THE ALPINE CLUB OBITUARY : Election. Howard, G. E. • • • • • 1907 Roger-Smith, H. R. • • • • I9IO Gates, Caleb F., Jr. • • • • • I928 Hey, Wilson H. • • • • • I929 Hobday, S. R. • • • • • • I933 Sarpy, A. U. • • • • • • I936 ALPINE JouRNAL. Index to Vols. 39- 58. Copies of this index are still available and may be ordered from the Assistant Secretary, Alpine Club, 74, South Audley Street, London, W. I. Price 2os. post free. Copies of the Index to Vols. I6- 38 are also available, price 2os. post free. · Back numbers of the ALPINE JOURNAL are generally extant ·: prices on application. HoNORARY MEMBERSHIP. At the Winter Dinner on December 6, I955, Sir Edwin Herbert announced, amid applause, that His Royal . Highness the Duke of Edinburgh had graciously accepted Honorary Membership of the Alpine Club. We are glad to announce, also, that Dr. G. M. Trevelyan, former Master of Trinity, has been elected an Honorary Member of the Club. ScHALLIHORN : FIRST AscENT FROM THE ScHALLIJOCH. E. A. Broome with Alois and Heinrich Pollinger claimed to have made the first ascent of the North ridge of the Schallihorn in 1903, 1 but was later told by George Y eld that the ridge had been once previously climbed, • though no particulars of this expedition were ever given. 2 It would be of interest to know if any information is available about this supposed earlier ascent. G. Winthrop Young was under the impression that his party was making the first ascent of the ridge in I 907, 3 but this was not · so, though the matter of Broome's priority is still undecided. -
One Hundred Years Ago (With Extracts from the Alpine Journal)
CA RUSSELL One Hundred Years Ago (with extracts from the Alpine Journal) (Plates 72-76) anuary, 1898, has been an extraordinary month in the High Alps. A succession of cloudless days following on one of the small Jest falls of snow on record has made winter climbing much less laborious than it usually is. After an ascent of Piz Sella on Jan. 12, I went on the 19th to Boval, the little club hut by the Morteratsch Glacier. I was accompanied by a friend and two guides, and on the 20th, in summerlike weather, we made the ascent of Piz Palii, taking many photographs en route. The following day we went up another big mountain, Piz Zupo, 13,100 feet, and plied the camera again diligently on its head and sides. Though a cloudless day, there was a little wind, and on the top we felt somewhat chilly after an hour's stay. Indeed, my friend had to retire to bed with a slightly frost-bitten toe when we got pome, and all our food and drinkables were frozen even by our return at 3.30 p.m. to the Morteratsch restaurant. The favourable conditions experienced by Mrs Elizabeth MainI and PH Cooke during their climbs from the Boval hut with the guides Martin Schocher and Christian Schnitzler were enjoyed in many parts of the Alps during the opening weeks of 1898. On 28 January Frederick Gardiner and his wife Alice, accompanied by Ulrich, Rudolf, Hans and Peter Almer and a porter, reached the summit of the Wetterhorn after a night at the Gleckstein hut. -
British Members Swiss Alpine Club
THE ASSOCIATION OF BRITISH MEMBERS OF THE SWISS ALPINE CLUB (established 1909) President: C. T. LEHMANN, ESQ. Vice-Presidents : W. M. Roberts, O.B.E. A. E. W. Mason. A. N. Andrews. Sir William Ellis, G.B.E. CONTENTS : Committee and Officers. Report, Accounts and Balance Sheet for 1943. How to belong to Swiss Alpine Club, etc. List of Meetings for 1944. List of Members Serving in H.M. Forces, Obituary—Canon Salwey. Extracts from “ Les Alpes” 1943. Club Notes. Catalogue of Books in the Library. Objects and Rules of Association. List of Members of Association and Addresses. List of Hon. Members. Kindred Clubs and some Sections of S.A.C. Hon. Treasurer: C. T.' LEHMANN, 35, Mattock Lane, Ealing, W.5 Hon. Secretaries: M. N. CLARKE and F. W. CAVEY. Temporary Address : c/o The Hon. Treasurer . 1944 msi Association of British Members of the Swiss Alpine Club V 1944 Officers : President: C. T. Lehmann, 'AC.' (Diablerets) 1937. Vice-Presidents: A. E. W. Mason, 'AC.' (Geneva), President, 1912-1922, V.P., 1923. \V. M. Roberts. O.B.E., 'AC.' (Oberhasli), Hon. Secretary, 1923-1930, President, l.oqt loin V V 10*11 Sib William Elus. G.B.E., 'AC' (Bern), 1936. A. N. Andrews, 'AC.' (Grindelwald), Hon. Secretary, 1912-1928, Hon. Librarian, 1929 1932, President, 1934 -1936, V P., 1933 and 1937. Committee : A. A. Galloway, 'AC.' R. P. Mears, ‘ AC.’ (Geneva) 1943 (Monte Rosa) 1942 F. R. Crepin, ‘ AC.’ (Geneva) 1944 C. G. Mauicbreitek, C.B.E., R. S. Dadson, ‘ .46'.’ 'AC' (Geneva) 1942 (Monte Rosa) 1944 R. -
Rudolf Rother, 1923 (65 Vrcholů, Později Přidal Ještě 2)
, Rudolf Rother, 1923 (65 vrcholů, později přidal ještě 2) Jedná se o popis systematického sbírání jednotlivých výstupů. Snažil jsem z této knihy vysbírat maximum informací, ale zatím jsem ji neprošel kompletně. 1. Mont Blanc 4 810 B Masiv Mont Blanku Mont Blank 2. Dufourspitze 4 638 B+ Walliské Alpy Monte Rosa 3. Grenzgipfel 4 631 B+ Walliské Alpy Monte Rosa 4. Nordend 4 612 B+ Walliské Alpy Monte Rosa 5. Zumsteinspitze 4 573 B- Walliské Alpy Monte Rosa 6. Signalkuppe / Punta Gnifetti 4 561 B- Walliské Alpy Monte Rosa 7. Dom 4 554 B Walliské Alpy Mischabel 8. Lyskamm 4 538 C- Walliské Alpy Liskamm 9. Weisshorn 4 512 C Walliské Alpy Weisshorn 10. Täschhorn 4 498 B+ Walliské Alpy Mischabel 11. Matterhorn 4 482 C Walliské Alpy Matterhorn 12. Pic Luigi Amedeo 4 472 C Masiv Mont Blanku Mont Blank 13. Mont Maudit 4 471 B+ Masiv Mont Blanku Mont Blank 14. Parrotspitze 4 463 B- Walliské Alpy Monte Rosa 15. Dent Blanche 4 364 C Walliské Alpy Matterhorn 16. Ludwigshöhe 4 344 B- Walliské Alpy Monte Rosa 17. Nadelhorn 4 334 B+ Walliské Alpy Mischabel 18. Dôme du Goûter 4 331 B Masiv Mont Blanku Mont Blank 19. Schwarzhorn 4 324 B+ Walliské Alpy Monte Rosa 20. Grand Combin 4 317 C- Walliské Alpy Grand Combin 21. Südlenzspitze 4 300 C Walliské Alpy Mischabel 22. Finsteraarhorn 4 275 B+ Bernské Alpy Jungfrau 23. Balmenhorn 4 255 B- Walliské Alpy Monte Rosa 24. Mont Blanc du Tacul 4 249 B- Masiv Mont Blanku Mont Blank 25. Stecknadelhorn 4 235 B+ Walliské Alpy Mischabel 26. -
Old Friends and New Huts, May-June 1947
~28 OLD FRIENDS AND NEW 'HUTS. · · ·In extenuation .may I plead that to describe avalanches and snow craft · each in some twenty :minutes, is rather like attempting to explain wireless or ballistics in a few sentences. Snowcraft has meant a lifetime study for men who have felt at the end that they have but made a beginning. May this,' too, be my excuse tonight. · ' . • • • • • • • • • • • ' . • ' • • . • OLD FRIENDS AND . NEW HUTS, • • 4 • • • • • • • • • • MAY-JUNE 1947 · • • • BY E. H. PECK . ... • • FTER eight years' absence from the Alps, a kindly Providence brought me to Gerieva .to · work during April and May, and o'n finishing work there I was able· to take three weeks' leave at the .very best period of. the year. A few week ends well spent from Geneva .in 'brushing up one's ·skiing on the Rochers de N aye and the Brevent, together with some exhausting early morning scrambles on the Saleve~ ·were valuable training which enabled me to extract the utmost from the holiday that followed. Perhaps the most interesting. of these excursions from Geneva was an unpremeditated ascent of the Haute Cime of the Dents du Midi early in May when the small snow traverses and the scramble through the Pas d'Encel, of which I retained childish memories of 2 3 years before, gave a foretaste of greater things to come, while the climb of the 2200 metres from Champery and back in a single day made a good contribution to training. Meanwhile, weeks of fine weather slipped by in Geneva, and I fretted with anxiety lest both my earlier plans for a skiing holiday and ·my subsequent ones for climbing should be thwarted by some untimely break in the weather, but these fears proved wholly unjustified.