Ecuador & Galápagos

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Footprint Ecuador & Galápagos n Extensive coverage of the most famous and lesser-known places, from colonial Quito to village markets selling traditional crafts n Expert authors Robert and Daisy

Kunstaetter know the country inside out, Galápagos & Ecuador PANAMA having lived in Ecuador for over two decades CO LOMBI A GALAP AGOS n Inspirational Galápagos Islands ISLANDS ECUADOR colour section, with stunning images plus everything you need to know when PERU planning your trip n Authoritative advice and recommendations to ensure you find the best accommodation, restaurant or Galápagos cruise n Comprehensive information to immerse you in Ecuador’s lively culture and unique wildlife n Footprint have built on years of experience to become the experts on Latin America

‘Footprint is the best – engagingly written, comprehensive, honest and bang on the ball.’ Footprint Handbook THE SUNDAY TIMES

Travel: South America UK £16.99 Ecuador & 8th edition USA $25.99 ISBN 978 1 910120 39 2 Galápagos footprinttravelguides.com ROBERT & DAISY KUNSTAETTER Planning your trip ...... 2 Northern Pacific lowlands...... 252 Guayaquil to Puerto López...... 255 Quito and around ...... 38 Manta and Bahía de Caráquez...... 267 Quito...... 41 Northern lowlands...... 277 Around Quito ...... 85 The Oriente...... 286 Northern highlands...... 106 Northern Oriente...... 289 Quito to Otavalo...... 109 Central and southern Oriente...... 306 Otavalo and around...... 112 West of Otavalo ...... 124 Galápagos Islands...... 322 Ibarra and around...... 130 Landing sites...... 324 Ibarra to Tulcán...... 138 Calendar...... 326 Tulcán and the Colombian border . . . .140 Wildlife...... 330 A Galápagos cruise ...... 340 Central highlands...... 144 Populated islands...... 343 Cotopaxi, Latacunga and Quilotoa. . . .147 Unpopulated islands...... 350 Baños and Riobamba...... 169 Galápagos cruises and tours...... 355 Listings...... 361 Southern highlands...... 192 Background...... 373 Cuenca and around...... 195 Cuenca to the Peruvian border ...... 214 Background...... 378

Guayquil and south to Peru...... 228 Practicalities...... 414 Guayaquil...... 231 Footnotes...... 440 South to Peru ...... 246

Additional correspondents: Jeaneth Barrionuevo, Jean Brown, Michael Resch, Peter Schramm and Popkje van der Ploeg Footprint Handbook Ecuador & Galápagos ROBERT & DAISY KUNSTAETTER Ecuador & Galápagos Ecuador is compact by South American standards, compact enough for you to have breakfast as you watch dawn break over the Amazon jungle canopy, lunch at the foot of a smoking snow-capped volcano and dinner amid the last rays of sunset over the Pacific ocean. Within this small area, it boasts extraordinary diversity: geographical diversity ranging from an avenue of volcanoes straddling the Equator, to rainforest, beaches and tropical islands; biological diversity, amongst the highest in the world, protected by 50 national parks and reserves; and cultural diversity, with 17 ethnically distinct indigenous groups. With so much variety, Ecuador has something for everyone. Birdwatching, trekking, mountaineering, mountain biking, whitewater rafting, paragliding and surfing are among the country's many privileged outdoor activities. Yet the draw is not only about hiking boots and adrenaline. Archaeology, art and local culture are also abundant and varied. The capital, Quito, and the southern highland city of Cuenca, have two of the finest colonial districts in South America, an excellent selection of museums and a lively tourist scene. The smaller towns and villages of Ecuador offer the most authentic experience as well as the opportunity to share their traditions at fiestas and through community tourism. Indulge your senses at one of their many markets, with dizzying arrays of textiles, ceramics, carvings and other crafts, not to mention the plethora of domestic animals and cornucopia of fresh produce. They are all there for the local people but tourists are very welcome. The Galápagos Islands, cradle and showcase of Darwin's theory of evolution, are the rich icing on the Ecuadorean cake. Fragile and expensive, the Galápagos are not for everyone, but if you are passionate about nature, they offer a once-in-a-lifetime experience worth saving for. Ecuador is your oyster and it is also our home. We are proud of its many wonders and concerned about their future. We warmly welcome you to share the sense of wonder that Ecuador can inspire and we ask you to please tread lightly here, so that the traveller's dream may continue. Robert and Daisy Kunstaetter San Lorenzo

La Tola Esmeraldas C O L O M B I A Ipiales

P a c i f i c Tulcán O c e a n Muisne ESMERALDAS CARCHI Mompiche IMBABURA Quinindé Ibarra R Cojimíes ío 2 Pu Otavalo tu m a Pedernales Equator Lago Agrio SUCUMBIOS yo Reserva Mindo 1 Reventador Santo Río Coca Faunística 11 Cuyabeno El Carmen QUITO NAPO Cascada San Rafael Ag Río uar SANTO DOMINGO ico Canoa MANABI DE LOS TSACHILAS Coca Parque Bahía de Nacional ORELLANA Parque Río Napo Caráquez 3 Cotopaxi COTOPAXI Tena Nacional 10 Yasuní Nuevo Manta Latacunga Quevedo 4 Rocafuerte Portoviejo Isla de Misahuallí la Plata TUNGURAHU A Ambato 9 Jipijapa BOLIVAR LOS RIOS Chimborazo Baños 5 Puyo Puerto Parque López Nacional Guaranda Tungurahua Machalilla Riobamba PASTAZA Babahoyo 8 Montañita GUAYAS CHIMBORAZO

SANTA Guayaquil Río Río Pastaza Salinas ELENA Alausí Upano El Triunfo Ingapirca Macas La Troncal CAÑAR Cañar MORONA Playas Puerto Inca SANTIAGO Parque Azogues Nacional Cajas Cuenca P E R U AZUAY Machala 6 Gualaquiza Tumbes Huaquillas EL ORO

Zaruma Charles Darwin Galápagos Islands Teodoro Wolf LOJA Loja Zamora Parque Vilcabamba Nacional 12 Pinta Macará Podocarpus Quito Marchena 7 ZAMORA Genovesa CHINCHIPE Santiago N Zumba Baltra San Fernandina Pinzón Cristóbal Isabela Santa Cruz Santa Fe 50 km Floreana Española 50 miles Colonial Quito San Lorenzo and around

La Tola Esmeraldas C O L O M B I A Ipiales Otavalo P a c i f i c Tulcán O c e a n Muisne ESMERALDAS CARCHI Mompiche IMBABURA Quinindé Ibarra R Parque Nacional Cojimíes ío 2 Pu Otavalo tu m Cotopaxi a Pedernales Equator Lago Agrio SUCUMBIOS yo Reserva Mindo 1 Reventador Santo Río Coca Faunística 11 Cuyabeno El Carmen QUITO NAPO Cascada San Rafael Ag Río uar Quilotoa Circuit SANTO DOMINGO ico Canoa MANABI DE LOS TSACHILAS Coca Parque Bahía de Nacional ORELLANA Parque Río Napo Caráquez 3 Cotopaxi COTOPAXI Tena Nacional 10 Yasuní Nuevo Manta Latacunga Baños Quevedo 4 Rocafuerte Portoviejo Isla de Misahuallí la Plata TUNGURAHU A Ambato 9 Jipijapa BOLIVAR LOS RIOS Chimborazo Baños 5 Puyo Puerto Parque Cuenca 6 López Nacional Guaranda Tungurahua Machalilla Riobamba PASTAZA Babahoyo 8 Montañita GUAYAS CHIMBORAZO Vilcabamba SANTA Guayaquil Río Río Pastaza Salinas ELENA Alausí Upano El Triunfo Ingapirca Macas La Troncal Cañar CAÑAR Puerto Inca MORONA Playas SANTIAGO Montañita Parque Azogues Nacional Cajas Cuenca P E R U AZUAY 6 Machala Puerto López Gualaquiza Tumbes Huaquillas EL ORO

Zaruma Charles Darwin Galápagos Islands Teodoro Wolf Tena LOJA Loja Zamora Parque Vilcabamba Nacional 12 Pinta Macará Podocarpus Quito Reserva Faunística Marchena 7 ZAMORA Genovesa CHINCHIPE Cuyabeno Santiago N Zumba Baltra San Fernandina Pinzón Cristóbal Isabela Santa Cruz Santa Fe Galápagos Islands 50 km Floreana Española 50 miles • 9 Sea lion, Galápagos Islands When to go When to go …and when not to

Climate Ecuador is a year-round destination and the climate is unpredictable. As a general rule, however, in the Sierra, there is little variation by day or by season in the temperature, this depends on altitude. The range of shade temperature is from 6°C to 10°C in the morning, to 19°C to 23°C in the afternoon, though it can get considerably hotter in the lower basins. The day length (sunrise to sunset) is almost constant throughout the year. Rainfall patterns depend on whether a particular area is closer to the eastern or western slopes of the Andes. To the west, June to September are dry and October to May are wet (but there is a short dry spell in December or January). To the east, October to February are dry and March to September are wet. There is also variation in annual rainfall from north to south, with the southern highlands being drier. Along the Pacific coast, rainfall also decreases from north to south, so that it can rain throughout the year in northern Esmeraldas and seldom at all near the Peruvian border. The coast, however, can also be enjoyed year-round, although it may be a bit cool from June to November, when mornings are often grey with the garúa mists. January to May is the hottest and rainiest time of the year. Like the coast the Galápagos may receive garúa from May to December; from January to April the islands are hottest and brief but heavy showers can fall. In the Oriente, heavy rain can fall at any time, but it is usually wettest from March to September. Ecuador’s high season is from June to early September, which is also the best time for climbing and trekking. There is also a shorter tourist season in December and January. At major fiestas (see below), especially Carnival, Semana Santa (Easter), Finados (2 November) and over New Year, accommodation can be hard to find. Hotels will be full in individual towns during their particular festivals and resorts may be busy at weekends year-round.

Planning your trip When to go ● 17 Quito & around spectacular setting and handsome architecture

Few cities have a setting to match that of Quito, the second highest capital in Latin America. It sits in a narrow valley at the foot of the volcano Pichincha. From El Panecillo hill there are fine views of the city and the encircling volcano cones. Quito is a city of many faces. The first UNESCO World Heritage Site city in the world, Quito’s charm lies in its colonial centre, the Centro Histórico. Here, pastel-coloured houses and ornate churches line a warren of steep and narrow streets. Modern Quito is an altogether different place, with busy avenues lined with office towers, shopping malls, restaurants and bars, and a huge variety of hotels. Quito is surrounded by scenic countryside which is well worth visiting. Within easy reach of the city are nature reserves, wonderful thermal baths, mountains to climb, quaint villages and the monument to the equator. The western slopes of Pichincha, also nearby, are covered in beautiful cloudforest where nature lovers can indulge their taste for adventure.

Best for Churches  Mountains  Museums  Nightlife 38 ● Quito

Quito...... 41 Around Quito...... 85

Footprint picks H La Compañía, page 45 Among Quito’s 86 churches, La Compañía has the most ornate and richly sculptured façade and interior. H Museo Nacional, page 50 This is the most comprehensive of Quito’s many excellent museums. H El Teleférico, page 56 This cable car climbs to 4050 m on the flanks of Pichincha, with gorgeous view along the way. H Mitad del Mundo, page 56 Every tourist knows that this is the place to straddle the equator. The ethnographic museum and Museo Inti-Ñan here are worth visiting. H Papallacta, page 88 There is nowhere to soak like Papallacta, the best developed thermal baths in Ecuador. H Mindo, page 97 Not far from Quito, Mindo and the cloudforests of the western slopes of Pichincha are a nature lover’s paradise.

Best for Churches  Mountains  Museums  Nightlife ● 39 To Calderón & To Carcelén e 1 Pan-American Highway North (northern Quito orientation bus terminal)

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44 ● Quito & around Quito ON THE ROAD El chulla quiteño Quito’s spectacular location and its beautifully restored colonial centre are matched only by the complex charm of the capital’s people, the ‘chullas quiteños’ as they call themselves; the term defies translation but is akin to ‘real Quitonians’. These are not the colourfully dressed inhabitants of highland villages, tending crops and haggling with tourists to sell their crafts. They are young professionals, office workers and government bureaucrats, conservatively attired and courteous to a fault, and they form the backbone of a very urban society. You will see them going out for lunch with colleagues during the week, making even a cheap almuerzo seem like a formal occasion. You will also find them in the city’s bars and clubs at weekends, letting their hair down with such gusto that they seem like entirely different people. When you hear them singing : “yo soy el chullita quiteño...”, you will know what it is all about.

The fine Jesuit church of H La Compañía i García Moreno N3-117 y Sucre, T02- 258 1895, Mon-Thu 0930-1830, Fri 0930-1730, Sat and holidays 0930-1600, Sun 1230- 1600, US$4, students US$2, has the most ornate and richly sculptured façade and interior. Replicas of paintings of hell and the final judgement by Hernando de la Cruz can be seen at the entrance and are most striking. Behind the church, on Calle Benalcázar, is Capilla del Milagro i free, with a painting of the much venerated Virgen la Dolorosa. Diagonally opposite La Compañía is the Casa Museo María Augusta Urrutia i García Moreno N2-60 y Sucre, T02-258 0103, Tue-Fri 1000-1800, Sat-Sun 0930-1730, US$2, the home of a Quiteña who devoted her life to charity, showing the lifestyle of 20th-century aristocracy. Colonial and republican era furniture and paintings by Victor Mideros are on display. Two blocks west of Plaza de la Independencia is the church of La Merced i Chile y Cuenca, 0630-1200, 1300-1800, free, with many splendidly elaborate styles. Nearby is the Museo de Arte Colonial i Cuenca N6-15 y Mejía, T02-228 2297, Tue-Sat 0900-1630, US$2, housed in a 17th-century mansion, it features a collection of colonial sculpture and painting and temporary exhibits (free). A block away is Museo Casa de Sucre i Venezuela N4-71 y Sucre, T02-295 2860, daily 0930-1730, free, in the beautiful restored house of Sucre, with a pleasant patio and fountain. This historical museum has displays about life in the 19th century and Sucre’s role in Ecuador’s Independence.

South of Plaza de la Independencia South of Museo Casa de Sucre and housed in the restored 16th-century Hospital San Juan de Dios is the Museo de la Ciudad i García Moreno S1-47 y Rocafuerte, T02-228 3883, www.museociudadquito.gob.ec, Tue-Sun 0930-1730 (last group in 1630), US$3, free entry on the last Sat of each month, English guide service US$4 per group (request ahead). This is a very good museum which takes you through Quito’s history from prehispanic times to the 19th century, and has imaginative

Quito & around Quito ● 45 ON THE ROAD A day in Mindo There is plenty to do in Mindo, enough to spend several relaxing days. But if you would like to capture the essence of this area in a single day, try the following. Start really early in order to make the most of the dawn chorus of birds. After breakfast, visit a butterfly farm in time to see the butterflies emerge from their cocoons, before continuing with a walk to the waterfalls. If you are in the mood for some adventure along the way, ride one of the canopy ziplines or the cable car. By the time you reach the waterfalls, you’ll be ready for a refreshing dip in the river and a picnic lunch. You can visit more waterfalls on your return to town. Your appetite will be whet for dinner by the time you get back and you’ll probably be tempted to stay a day longer in Mindo. person, full board including excursion. Arrangements have to be made in advance. During the rainy season (October to May) access to the reserve can be rough. It is easy to admire the area’s rich diversity. For birdwatching, stroll along any of the roads out of town; the access road into town is particularly good, as are the private ‘Yellow House Trail’ at Hacienda San Vicente and the garden at El Descanso, see Where to stay, below. Some 250 species of butterflies have been identified around Mindo, you can see them close up at butterfly farms where the stages of metamorphosis are displayed and explained; go around 0900 when they are just emerging from their cocoons. Mariposas de Mindo i 2 km from town on the road to CEA, T02-224 2712, www.mariposasdemindo. com, US$6, is a good butterfly farm with restaurant and lodging. Nathaly i 100 m from the main park, US$5, is a small simple butterfly farm and orchid garden. A fine collection of the region’s orchids can be seen at Jardín de Orquídeas i Ruta al Cinto, 2 blocks from the church, by the stadium, T02-217 0131, www.birdingmindo. com, US$3, which also has cabins and a restaurant. Mindo Lago i 300 m from town on the road to Quito, T02-217 0201, www.mindolago.com.ec, closed Sun and Tue, US$1 day visit, frog concert at 1830, US$5, has trails and cabins around a pretty pond surrounded by vegetation, where you can listen to frogs around sunset. Several waterfalls can be visited, all on private land. On the Río Nambillo is the Cascada de Nambillo i US$3, with natural swimming holes and slides on the river. Just nearby is Santuario de Cascadas i T02-256 9312 (Quito), US$5, where there are seven falls on a tributary of the Nambillo, with the added attraction of a 530-m-long tarabita (cable car) to cross the river; if you do not want to use the tarabita, you can still visit the falls crossing on a bridge. Canopy ziplines are available on the way to Santuario de Cascadas for US$20. Mindo Canopy i T09-9453 0624, www.mindocanopy.com, with 3500 m of lines. Mindo Ropes & Canopy i T02-217 0131, www.portalmindo.com/canopy.php, has 2650 m of lines. Tucanopy, see page 94, in a reserve near Nanegalito has 2150 m of lines. A very popular activity in the Mindo area is regattas, the local name for inner- tubing, floating down a river on a raft made of several inner tubes tied together.

98 ● Quito & around Around Quito The number of tubes that can run together depends on the water level. Several local agencies and hotels offer this activity on the Río Mindo for US$5-6, but experts also run the Río Blanco, where competitions are held during local holidays. Tour operators also offer canyoning (US$15 plus transport), horse riding and bicycle rentals. El Quetzal offers tours of its chocolate factory and microbrewery and The Beehive apiary tours; see Restaurants, below.

San Miguel de los Bancos Colour map 1, C3. The Calacalí–La Independencia road or new route continues west beyond the turnoff to Mindo. At Km 94.5, Los Bancos (regional population 9800, altitude 1100 m), as the locals call it, is a pleasant market town surrounded by farms. It is perched on a ridge above the Río Blanco and has a pleasant climate. A road goes south from town and then splits right to Santo Domingo via Valle Hermoso and left to Alluriquín on the Alóag-Santo Domingo road. A pleasant day excursion from Los Bancos is to Cascada La Sucia. Take local transport bound for Alluriquín and get off at the bridge over the Río Blanco, about 15 minutes from Los Bancos. Just after crossing the bridge, turn left on a small dirt road and walk 2 km past the hamlet of Río Blanco. At the end of the road, turn left and descend to ford a small river, a tributary of the Blanco. Just upstream is a lovely cascade which spills into a great swimming hole. Leave enough time to catch a vehicle back to Los Bancos; otherwise it is a hot 5-km walk uphill from the bridge to town. At Km 91 on the new route, 3.5 km east of Los Bancos, a secondary road goes northwest to yet another scenic area known as Milpe. Here are a couple of bird- rich reserves on remnants of foothills forest, see page 95.

Pedro Vicente Maldonado Pedro Vicente Maldonado is a small supply town in a subtropical cattle-ranching area (regional population 11,800, altitude 600 m). At Km 104, a paved road goes northwest to Cielo Verde and beyond to the Río Guayllabamba, Manduriacos hydroelectric station and beyond to Intag (see page 125). The main road bypasses town to the south. About 8 km west of PV Maldonado, at Km 124 along the main road, is Finca San Carlos. Within the farm, it’s a 15-minute walk to Laguna Azul i US$1, a lovely pool at the base of a striking 35-m waterfall on the Río Negro. Accessed from PV Maldonado is the Río Silanche reserve, see page 95.

Puerto Quito On the shores of the lovely Río Caoni is Puerto Quito, a small town which was once intended to be the capital’s port. The main road bypasses the centre of town to the south. Along the Caoni and other rivers in the region (population 20,300, altitude 150 m) are several reserves, resorts and Quiteños’ holiday homes. This is a good area for birdwatching, swimming in rivers and natural pools, walking, kayaking, or simply relaxing in pleasant natural surroundings. The new route meets the Santo Domingo–Esmeraldas road 28 km southwest of Puerto Quito. Just south of the junction, on the way to Santo Domingo, is the village of La Independencia and 5 km further south the town of La Concordia.

Quito & around Around Quito ● 99 Listings Western slopes of Pichincha

Tourist information includes breakfast; other meals available. Packages including transport from Quito. Mindo Note it is not in Mindo. Municipal tourist information $$$ Yunguilla Quito y 9 de Octubre, next to the bus 5.5 km north of the new route, station, turismo.municipiosmb@ turn-off at Km 15, T09-9954 1537, gmail.com. Tue-Fri and Sun 0730-1300, www.yunguilla.org.ec. 1430-1700. A cabin with 3 rooms for 3 people, Plenty of local information and shared bath and electric shower; price pamphlets, map, some English spoken, includes full board. Also organize very helpful. housing with families (same price), camping US$5 pp or US$28 pp using Where to stay their tent and full board. From Yunguilla Ecoruta you can hike to Maquipucuna, Santa Lucía or Pululahua, with guiding US$50 $ Quinta Margarita per day for up to 10 passengers. Access On the main road in Nono, just above by pickup from Calacalí (US$5). town, T02-278 6118. A refurbished hacienda house, part $ Posada del Yumbo of a working ranch, some rooms with Up a side street off the main road, Tulipe, private bath, others shared, with hot T02-361 2801. water. Horse riding. Call ahead to make Cabins and simple rooms in a large sure owners will be there. Nearby are a property with a river view, a pool couple of eateries. and horse riding. No meals available. Also run restaurant La Aldea, by the The new route archaeological site. $$$ Hostería Sumak Pakari Noroccidente nature reserves Tulipe, 200 m from the village, T02-361 3121, www.hosteriasumakpakari.com. $$$$ Mashpi Cabins with suites with jacuzzi and T02-400 4100, in Quito T02-400 8088, rooms set in gardens, terraces with www.mashpilodge.com. hammocks, pools, a restaurant and Modern luxurious lodge with panoramic sports fields. Rates include breakfast windows, rooms and suites with and museum fee. minimalist decor, good views and spa. Transport from Quito US$20 pp. $$$ Urcu de Mindo Near Las Tolas, T02-287 3170, $$$$ Tandayapa Bird Lodge www.cloudforestecuador.com. T02-244 7520 (Quito), Set in a 42-ha property with forest around www.tandayapa.com. 1800 m are these 2 fancy treehouses with Designed and owned by birders. Full jacuzzi and rustic wood and bamboo board, 12 comfortable rooms, some have cabins. There’s a pool and waterfalls. Price a canopy platform for observation, large

100 ● Quito & around Around Quito common area; guide US$168 per day, is 20 mins’ walk from the main lodge, packages including guide and transport US$10 per tent (food extra). On offer is from Quito. Book well in advance. a coffee tour and chocolate massages. Rates include full board with good meals $$$$-$$$ Bellavista Cloud Forest using ingredients from own organic T02-211 6232 (lodge); office in garden (vegetarian and vegan available). Quito at Jorge Washington E7-25 Packages including transport and y 6 de Diciembre, T02-223 2313, guiding are also available. www.bellavistacloudforest.com. A dramatic lodge perched in beautiful $$$$-$$$ Santa Lucía cloudforest, includes unique geodesic T02-215 7242 (office), 02-361 3214 (lodge), dome. A variety of comfortable rooms www.santaluciaecuador.com. ranging from suites to rooms with The lodge with panoramic views is a 1½- shared bath, all include 3 excellent hr walk from the access to the reserve, meals (with vegetarian options), but mules are available to carry luggage heaters, 1 wheelchair accessible room. (US$20 each way). Price includes full New luxury suites were due to be board with good food. There are cabins completed in 2015. A bilingual guide with private bath, rooms with shared service is included in packages. Good composting toilets and hot showers and research station with dorms and dorms (US$35 pp). A guide costs US$50 kitchen facilities is available (US$20 pp), per day for up to 7 passengers. camping US$8 pp. Package tours $$$ Pachijal with guide and transport from Quito T09-9955 4560, www.pachijalreserve.com. available. Guided tours to Mindo Small 6-room lodge with a restaurant for and other reserves in the area. Best guests only, a rooftop terrace with views booked in advance. Very good service. and horse riding. Price includes breakfast Recommended. and guiding. $$$$-$$$ Maquipucuna Lodge $$$ San Jorge T02-250 7200, 09-9237 1945, T02-339 0403, T02-224 7549 (Quito), www.maqui.org. sanjorgeecolodges.com. Comfortable rustic lodge, with rooms A series of reserves with lodges in ranging from shared to rooms with bath, bird-rich areas. One is 4 km from Quito hot water and electricity. A campsite

Quito & around Around Quito ● 101 Galápagos

322 ● A trip to the Galápagos is an unforgettable experience. As Charles Darwin put it: ‘the natural history of this archipelago is very remarkable: it seems to be a little world within itself’. The islands are world renowned for their fearless wildlife but no amount of hype can prepare you for such a close encounter with nature.

Lying right on the equator, this ancient achipelago of harsh volcanic landscapes is ruled by animals, and human vistors are reduced to the role of voyeur. Here, you can snorkel with penguins and sea lions, watch 200-kg tortoises lumbering through giant cactus forest, and enjoy the courtship display of the blue-footed booby and frigate bird, all at startlingly close range. Both above and below water, sit back, wait patiently and allow the anilmals to come to you. They nearly always do.

On land, immerse yourself in another world. Sit beside newborn sea lion pups and their parents will simply lift their heads and give you a cursory glance. Marine iguanas bask by your toes, while birds pause on their backs doing daily clean-up duty.

Biodiversity figures are not as high as in some other places, yet the number of endemic species is unparalleled. Beneath the incessant waves, there are vast numbers of sharks, from the sleek silky to gentle whale sharks. Huge schools of hammerheads are the most common, yet they can also appear solo, sitting by your shoulder.

The Galápagos consist of six main islands: San Cristóbal, Santa Cruz, Isabela, Floreana, Santiago and Fernandina (Santiago and Fernandina are uninhabited). There are also 12 smaller islands as well as over 40 small islets, which can only be visited on cruises.

Despite their relative isolation and the cost of getting there, these islands are ever popular. A steady stream of people flies in daily, passing along well-trodden routes to witness the spectacular wildlife.

● 323 Essential Galápagos

Finding your feet and explore the populated islands independently at their leisure. There are no international flights to the Galápagos. Flights from Quito or Day tours Day tours (tour diario) are Guayaquil arrive at two main airports: based mostly out of Puerto Ayora. Some Baltra, across a narrow strait from Santa take you for day visits to national park Cruz (the most populated island), and landing sites on nearby unpopulated Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, on San islands, such as Bartolomé, Seymour, Cristóbal. The two islands are 96 km Plazas and Santa Fe, and can be quite apart and on most days there are flights good. Others go for the day to the between them, as well as to Puerto populated islands of Isabela or Floreana, Villamil on Isabela. There is also a with no stops permitted along the way. lancha (speedboat) service between The latter require at least four hours of Puerto Ayora (Santa Cruz) and the other speedboat travel and generally leave populated islands. See Transport, page 372 insufficient time to enjoy visitor sites; Tour options they are not recommended. Live-aboard cruise The traditional When to go and best way to visit the Galápagos is The Galápagos climate can be divided on a live-aboard cruise (tour navegable), into a hot season (December-May), where you travel and sleep on a yacht, when there is a possibility of heavy tour boat or cruise ship. These vessels showers, and the cooler garúa (mist) travel at night, arriving at a new landing season (June to November), when site each day. Cruises range from three the days are generally more cloudy to 14 nights; seven is recommended. and there is often rain or drizzle. July Itineraries are controlled by the national and August can be windy, force four park to distribute cruise boats evenly or five. The sea is cold July-October; throughout the islands. There is a vast underwater visibility is best January- range of options from economy to March. Ocean temperatures are usually luxury and standards and prices vary higher to the east and lower at the considerably. See page 372 for more western end of the archipelago. Despite information. all these climatic variations, conditions are generally favourable for visiting Island-hopping This is an alternative Galápagos throughout the year. option for visiting Galápagos whereby High season for tourism is June- you spend a night or two at hotels on August and December-January, when the four populated islands, travelling last-minute arrangements are generally between them in speedboats. You not possible. Some boats may be cover less ground than on a cruise, see heavily booked throughout the year and fewer wildlife sites, and cannot visit the you should plan well in advance if you more distant islands. Island-hopping is want to travel on a specific vessel at a sold in organized packages but visitors specific time. in no rush can also travel between

328 ● Responsible tourism and safety ■ Do not transfer sand, seeds or soil from one island to another. ■ Never touch any of the animals, birds or plants. ■ Do not leave litter anywhere or take food onto the islands. ■ Keep your distance from the male ‘beach-master’ sea lions, they have been ■ All areas of the national park are known to bite. non-smoking.

● 329 Wildife of the Galápagos a beginner’s guide Over many hundreds of thousands of years, animals and plants migrated to the islands from across the sea and adapted themselves to the islands’ conditions. Thus many of them are unique: a quarter of the species of shore fish, half of the plants and almost all the reptiles are found nowhere else. Plant and animal species in the Galápagos are grouped into three categories – endemic, native and introduced – terms you will hear often during your visit.

330 ● Reptiles The reptiles found on the Galápagos islands are represented by five groups: iguana, lava lizards, geckos, snakes and, of course, the giant tortoise. Of the 27 species of reptile on the islands, 17 are endemic. Species specifics 1 Endemic species Species which occur Giant tortoise only in the Galápagos and nowhere else Geochelone elephantopus on earth. Sighting In captivity on San Cristóbal, Native species Species that are found Isabela and Floreana, or in the wild at the in the Galápagos as well as other parts tortoise reserve on Santa Cruz. of the world. Although not unique to the islands, these native species have The Galápagos are named after the saddle- been an integral part of the Galápagos back tortoise (galápago means saddle), one ecosystems for a very long time. of 14 species of giant tortoise that have Introduced species These are very been discovered on the islands, although recent arrivals, brought by man, and now only 10 survive (the famous Lonesome inevitably the cause of much damage George – thought to be a subspecies all of (see Tourists and settlers, page 377). hid own – sadly died in 2012). Much prized by 17th- and 18th-century sailors as a source of fresh meat on long voyages, their eggs season (January to March). Later, between make a tasty snack for introduced species February and May, the females amble such as black rats, feral dogs and pigs. Numbers down the coast where they bury up to 16 dwindled from an estimated 250,000 to eggs in a nest about 30 cm deep. Three to just 15,000 in 1980. These days there are eight months later, the eggs hatch, usually between 20,000 and 25,000 on the islands. between mid-January and March. The Darwin Research Station in Santa Cruz rears young for reintroduction to the wild, ■ The oldest inhabitant of the Darwin giving visitors the opportunity to see them Research Station may be 180 years old – close up. The tortoises mate during the wet old enough to have met Darwin himself.

● 331 Culture Culture People According to the latest census (2010, see www.ecuadorencifras.gob.ec), almost 72% of Ecuador’s 14.5 million people consider themselves mestizos, descendants of indígenas and Spaniards. Cholo is another (mildly derogatory) term for this group, although infrequently used in Ecuador. Rural coastal dwellers are referred to as montubios and represent about 7.5% of the population. Roughly 7% of all Ecuadoreans today identify themselves as belonging to one of 14 different indigenous peoples.

Andean peoples The largest indigenous group are the Andean Quichuas. The common language, Quichua, is closely related to the Quechua spoken in parts of Peru and Bolivia. Once thought to have been imposed on conquered peoples by the Incas, Quechua/ Quichua is now considered to have developed as a common trading language in the central Andes, long before the advent of the Inca Empire. Though Ecuador’s highland natives all speak a similar language, indigenous dress differs from region to region. In the north, Otavaleño women are very distinctive with their blue skirts and embroidered blouses, while in the south the Saraguros traditionally wear black. A very important part of indigenous dress is the hat, which also varies from region to region.

Rainforest peoples The largest indigenous groups in the Oriente are the Kichwas, in the north, and the Shuar, in the south. The Amazonian Kichwas speak a different dialect to their highland Quichua counterparts and their way of life is markedly distinct. Other Amazonian peoples of Ecuador include the Achuar and Huaorani as well as the Cofán, Secoya, Shiwiar, Siona and Zápara, all of whom are very few in number and in danger of disappearing. Those very few jungle peoples who still maintain a traditional lifestyle, hunt and practise a form of itinerant farming which requires large areas of land, in order to allow the jungle to recover. Their way of life is under dire threat and many Amazonian indigenous communities are fighting for land rights in the face of oil exploration and colonization from the highlands. There are also small groups of indígenas on the coastal plain. Awas live in Esmeraldas and Carchi provinces; Chachis and Eperas live nearer the coast and a little further south; Tsáchilas, formerly known as Colorados, live in the lowlands around Santo Domingo. These groups of coastal indígenas are also in danger of disappearing.

386 ● Background Culture Afro-Ecuadoreans The black population is estimated at about 7% of all Ecuadoreans. They live mostly in the coastal province of Esmeraldas and in neighbouring Imbabura and are descended from slaves who were brought from Africa in the 18th century to work on coastal plantations. Although the slave trade was abolished in 1821, slavery itself continued until 1852. Even then, freedom was not guaranteed until the system of debt tenancy was ended in 1881 and slaves could at last leave the plantations. However, the social status of Ecuador’s black population remains low. They suffer from poor education and the racism endemic in all levels of society.

Indigenous cultures

COLOMBIA CARCHI ESMERALDAS Qs Ch E N IMBABURA P acific N O Qs Ocean SUCUMBIOS PICHINCHA C K Se Si A Qs T MANABI NAPO K COTOPAXI ORELLANA Qs H K LOS TUNGURAHUA RIOS Qs S BOLIVAR PASTAZA Qs Ac H K Sh Z CHIMB- GUAYAS ORAZO Qs MORONA SANTIAGO CAÑAR Ac Sh Qs

AZUAY Qs

EL ORO Cultural groups O Otavaleño ZAMORA CHINCHIPE A Awa Qs Quichua of the Sierra LOJA Sh Ac Achuar S Salasaca Qs Sa Ch Chachi Sa Saraguro C Cofán Se Secoya N E Epera Sh Shuar PERU H Huaorani Si Siona K Kichwa of the Oriente T Tsachila

Not to scale N Negro-afroecuatoriano Z Zápara

Background Culture ● 387 Essential A-Z

Maps and city guides Instituto Geográfico Militar (IGM) i Senierges y Telmo Paz y Miño, east of Parque Essentials A-Z El Ejido, Quito, T02-397 5100, ext 2502, www.geoportaligm.gob.ec, Mon-Thu 0730- 1600, Fri 0700-1430, take ID. Country and topographic maps are available in a variety of printed and digital formats. Prices range from US$3 to US$7. Maps of border and sensitive areas are ‘reservado’ (classified) and not available for sale without a permit. It’s best to buy all your maps here as they are rarely available outside Quito.

422 ● Practicalities Getting around Essential A-Z

Essentials A-Z

Accident and emergency are safe, readily available, easy to eat and nutritious; they can be fed to For all emergencies nationwide, T911. babies as young as 6 months and most older children like them. Best stick to Children simple things like bread, bananas and Travel with children can bring you tangerines while you are actually on the into closer contact with Ecuadorean road. Biscuits, packaged junk food and families and, generally, presents no bottled drinks abound. In restaurants, special problems – in fact the path may you can try to buy a media porción (half even be smoother for family groups. portion), or divide a full-sized helping Officials are sometimes more amenable between 2 children. where children are concerned and they are pleased if your child knows a Customs and duty free little Spanish. For more detailed advice, On arrival see Footprint’s Travel with Kids by Customs inspection is carried out at William Gray. airports after you clear immigration. Bus travel Remember that a lot of When travelling by land, customs time can be spent waiting for and authorities may also set up checkpoints riding buses. You should take reading along the country’s highways. Tourists material with you as it is difficult to find seldom encounter any difficulties and expensive. Also look for the locally but if you are planning to bring any available comic strip Condorito, which particularly unusual or valuable items is quite popular and a good way for to Ecuador then you should enquire older children to learn a bit of Spanish. beforehand with an Ecuadorean Reading on the bus itself, especially diplomatic representative (see Embassies on winding mountain roads, is not and consulates, page 424) and obtain recommended. On long-distance buses any necessary permits, or be prepared you pay for each seat, and there are no to pay the prevailing customs duties. half fares. For shorter trips it is cheaper, Reasonable amounts of climbing gear, if less comfortable, to seat small children personal photo/video equipment and on your knee. Sometimes there are spare one laptop are generally not a problem. seats which children can occupy after For details on bringing a vehicle into tickets have been collected. Make sure Ecuador, see box, page 419. that children accompanying you are fully covered by your travel insurance policy. Shipping goods to Ecuador Food This can be a problem if the Except for documents, customs duties children are not adaptable. It is easier to must be paid on all goods shipped to take food with you on longer journeys Ecuador. Enforcement is strict, duties than to rely on meal stops where the are high and procedures are slow and food may not be to taste. Avocados complicated. You are therefore advised

Practicalities Essential A-Z ● 423 water, carbonated el agua mineral wine, red el vino tinto con gas wine, white el vino blanco water, still mineral el agua mineral sin gas

Key verbs to go ir to be ser (permanent state) estar I go voy (positional or temporary state) you go (familiar) vas I am soy estoy he, she, it goes, you are eres estás you (formal) go va he, she, it is, we go vamos you (formal) are es está they, you (plural) go van we are somos estamos they, you (plural) are son están to have (possess) tener I have tengo This section has been assembled on the basis of you (familiar) have tienes glossaries compiled by André de Mendonça and he, she, it, David Gilmour of South American Experience, you (formal) have tiene London, and the Latin American Travel Advisor, we have tenemos No 9, March 1996. they, you (plural) have tienen there is/are hay there isn’t/aren’t no hay

446 ● Footnotes Basic Spanish for travellers Index Entries in bold refer to maps A border crossing Chical 142 Colombia Chigüinda 202 accidents 423 San Lorenzo–Tumaco 280 children, travelling with 423 accommodation 28 Tulcán–Ipiales 142 Chimbacucho 157 camping 31 Peru Chimborazo 181 hacienda 30 Huaquillas–Tumbes 248 climbing 182 homestays 31 La Balsa 222 Chontal 94 hotels 28 Macará–La Tina 218 Chordeleg 201 price codes 28 Bosque Nublado de Otonga 97 Chorrera del Pita 86 Agua Blanca 258 Bosque Nublado Santa Lucía 96 Chorrera de Molinuco 86 Aguas Hediondas 141 Bosque Petrificado Puyango Chugchilán 159 airlines 417 248 climate 17, 398 airport tax 432 Bosque Protector Cerro Blanco climbing 21, 184 Alausí 184 236 Cayambe 110 albatross 336 Bosque Protector Guajalito 97 Chimborazo 182 Alto Chocó 126 Bosque Protector Guayabillas Cotopaxi 150 Alto Nangartiza 311 131 El Altar 184 Amazonia 398 Bosque Protector Mindo- near Quito 90 Ambato 164, 165 Nambillo 97 Pichincha 90 Ambuquí 138 bread figures 390 Rumiñahui 150 Andes 397 bus 419 Sangay 184 Angamarca 160 travel tips 420 Coca 297, 298 Apagua 160 Cochasqui 116 Apuela 126 C community ecotourism 292 Archidona 306 Calacalí 93 community work 437 arts 388 Calderón 109 Cóndor Machay 86 Atacames 277 camping 31 Corazón 148 Ayampe 256 Cañar 199 cormorants 334 Candelaria 184 B Cotacachi 124 Canoa 270 Cotacachi-Cayapas 124 Baeza 289 Caricocha 116 Bahía de Caráquez 268, 269 Cotopaxi 148 Cascada de Nambillo 98 couriers 430 Baltra 350 Cascada La Sucia 99 Baños 169, 170 Coyoctor 201 Cascada los Yumbos 93 crafts 388 Baños (Cuenca) 199 Catacocha 217 Baños del Inca 201 crime 432 Catamayo 217 Crucita 268 Bartolomé 325, 351 Cayambe 110 Bellavista Cloud Forest Reserve Cruz Loma 90 climbing 110 Cuellaje 126 94 Cerro Crocker 344 birdwatching 21, 403 Cuenca 195, 198 Cerro Golondrinas Cloudforest background 200 Bolívar 139 132 boobies 337 climate 196 Chachimbiro 133 listings 203 books 412 Charles Darwin Research Borbón 279 safety 196 Station 343 sights 197 Index ● 447 tourist information 203 F giant tortoise 331 transport 196, 212 Gonzanamá 217 culture 386 Facundo Vela 160 government 385 customs 423 Fernandina 352 Guagua Pichincha 90 Cutchil 202 festivals 18 Guajalito 97 Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve 297 Floreana 325, 349 Gualaceo 201 cycling 23, 420 food 32 Gualaquiza 202, 311 Quilotoa Circuit 159 frigate bird 336 Gualchán 132 fruits 34 D Gualea 93 Fuya Fuya 116 Guamote 184 dance 391 G Guandera Reserve and Daphne Major 351 Biological Station 139 Darwin, Charles 343, 373, 375 Galápagos Islands 322, 234, 377 Guangaje 160 Devil’s Cauldron 172 Guano 180 Devil’s Nose Train 183, 190 activities 367 background 373 Guantualo 160 disabled travellers 424 Guaranda 180, 182 diving 22, 368 Baltra 350 Bartolomé 351 Guayabillas 131 drink 34 Guayama 160 driving 419 calendar 326 climate 328 Guayaquil 231 drugs 431 background 235, 234, 236 duty free 423 cruises and tours 340, 355 Daphne Major 351 climate 232 E dive boats 367 listings 238 Ecoruta 92 diving 368 safety 232 ecotourism 292 Española 351 sights 233 El Aguacate 202 evolution and conservation 343 tourist information 238 El Altar 184 Fernandina 352 transport 232, 244 El Angel 138 Genovesa 352 Guayllabamba Valley 109 El Chato Tortoise Reserve 345 landing sites 324 guinea pig 166 El Cisne 217 Plaza Sur 353 Güingopana 160 El Corazón 160 populated islands 343 H Rábida 353 electricity 424 haciendas 30 responsible tourism 329 El Niño 399 hang-gliding 24 Santa Fe 353 El Pahuma 95 health 424 Santiago 354 El Pailón del Diablo 172 history 379 Seymour Norte 354 El Progreso 346 hitchhiking 421 Sombrero Chino 354 El Quinde 95 holidays 430 tourist information 361 El Tambo 206 homestays 31 tourist vessels 371 El Tambo, Papallacta 87 horse riding 23 tour options 328 embassies 424 hotels 28 unpopulated islands 350 emergencies 423 price codes 28 where to stay 361 entry requirements 436 hot springs 411 wildlife 330 environment 396 Huaquillas 248 García Moreno 126 equator 56 humpback whales 259 Esmeraldas 278 Gardner Bay 324 Española 324, 351 gay and lesbian travellers 428 I Esperanza de El Tingo 158 Genovesa 325 Ibarra 130, 130 geology 396 identification 427

448 ● Index iguanas 332, 333 Lagunas de Mojanda 116 Mira 138 Iliniza Norte 147 Lagunas de Piñán 126 Misahuallí 307, 308 Iliniza Sur 147 Laguna Toreadora 202 Mitad del Mundo 56 immigration 436 Laguna Yahuarcocha 131, 138 Mocha 166 Inca Empire 379 Laguna Yanacocha 116 Mompiche 277 Inca Trail 201 La Independencia 99 money 429 Ingapirca 199, 201 language 427, 441 monkeys 308 insurance 427 language schools, Quito 75 Montañita 256 Intag region 125 Las Antenas 90 Montecristi 260 internet 427 Las Grietas 344 Moraspungo 160 Intillacta 94 Las Peñas 278 music 391 Isabela 325, 347 Lasso 150 N Isinliví 159 Latacunga 151, 151 Isla Puná 237 La Toma 217 Nambillo 98 Isla Santay 237 Limones 279 Nanegalito 93 literature 391 Nangulví 126 J Lloa 90 national parks 403, 404 James Bay 325 Loja 215, 217 nature tourism 21 Jipijapa 260 Loreto 86 Nono 93 jungle lodges 290 Los Cedros Research Station North Seymour 324 Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve 300 127 Nuevo Rocafuerte 298 Lower Río Napo 302 O M Reserva Huaorani 303 Olmedo 278 Macará 217 Southern Oriente 316 Olón 256 Macas 309, 310 Upper Río Napo 314 Omaere 309 Machachi 147 jungle tours opening hours 429 Machala 246 central and southern Oriente Oreothraupis 95 Machalilla 266 319 Oriente 286 Mache-Chindul 277 from Coca 305 central and southern Oriente Magdalena Alto 94 Lower Río Napo 297 306 Maldonado 142 Northern Oriente 297 climate 293 Manglaralto 256 Junín Cloud Forest Reserve 127 guided tours 292 Manglares-Churute 237 health and safety 293 K Manta 266, 267 jungle lodges 290, 291 maps 422 Kapawi Ecological Reserve 316 northern Oriente 289 Maquipucuna 94 kayaking 24 responsible tourism 293 marine life 339 L river cruises 291 Mariscal Sucre 139 transport 290 La Concordia 99 markets Otavaleños 115 La Esperanza 131 Otavalo 112 Otavalo 112, 113, 114 La Florida, Quito 56 Riobamba 179 weavers 389 Lago Agrio 295, 295 Mascarilla 138 Oyacachi 110 Lago San Pablo 116 Mashpi 95 Laguna Azul 99 media 428 P Laguna Cuicocha 124 medical services 424 Pachijal 95 Laguna Huarmicocha 116 Milpe 95, 99 packing 416 Laguna Llaviuco 202 Mina del Sexmo 247 Pacto 93 Laguna Papallacta 87 Mindo 97 Padre Encantado 90

Index ● 449 FOOTPRINT Features A day in Mindo 98 Fruit salad 34 A whale of a time 259 menu reader 36 Bus travel tips 420 Monkey business in Misahuallí 308 Choosing a hotel in Guayaquil 239 National parks and reserves 406 Choosing a hotel in Quito 59 Orellana’s River 294 Difficult choices for Galápagos 374 Packing for Ecuador 416 Dining out 65 Safety 49 Dining out in Guayaquil 241 The Galápagos Affair 376 Driving in Ecuador 419 The high price of petroleum 296 Ecuadorean ball games 122 The Otavaleños 115 Ecuador fact file 380 The railway that refused to die 183 El chulla quiteño 45 The Vilcabamba syndrome 223 El Niño 399 Valdivia culture 257 Flying into Quito at night 43

Pailón del Diablo, El 172 Piñán 132 Punta Charapotó 268 painting 393 Piñán lakes 132 Punta Cormorant 325 Panama hat 388 Piñas 248 Punta Espinosa 325 Papallacta 88 Píntag 87 Punta Moreno 325 paragliding 24 Playa Escondida 277 Punta Pitt 324 Parque Arqueológico Tolas de Playas 255 Punta Suárez 324 Cochasquí 109 Plaza Sur 353 Puyango 248 Parque Nacional Cajas 202 politics 379 Puyo 309, 309 trekking 202 Portoviejo 260 Q Parque Nacional Cayambe Coca postal services 430 87, 110, 289 Post Office Bay 349 Quilotoa 158 Parque Nacional Cotopaxi price codes 28 Quilotoa Circuit 157, 158 148, 149 private reserves 403 cycling 159 Parque Nacional Machalilla 258 public holidays 430 trekking 160 Parque Nacional Podocarpus Puerto Ayora 343 Quilotoa crater lake 160 216 Puerto Baquerizo Moreno 345 Quinde, El 95 Parque Nacional Sangay 184, Puerto Bolívar 246 Quito 41, 44, 46, 51, 52, 54 310 Puerto Cayo 260 activities 72 passports 436 Puerto Egas 325 background 47 Paute 201 Puerto López 258, 258 bars and clubs 68 Pedernales 270 Puerto Portovelo 269 Colonial Quito 41 Pedro Vicente Maldonado 99 Puerto Quito 99 El Panecillo 47 pelota 122 Puerto Velasco Ibarra 349 entertainment 69 Peñaherrera 126 Puerto Villamil 347 festivals 70 penguins 334 Pujilí 157 hotels 58 Pichincha 90, 92 Pululahua 57 language schools 75 Pilaló 158 punctuality 430 modern Quito 50 Píllaro 164 Punta Carnero 255 Plaza de Santo Domingo 48 450 ● Index restaurants 64 Rumipamba 56, 86 Sierra Negra Volcano 348 safety 49 Rumi Wilco 221 Sigchos 159 shopping 70 Ruta del Spondylus 255 Sígsig 201 suburbs 55 smoking 432 S tourist information 57 snorkelling 22 tour operators 76 safety 430 Soldados 202 transport 42, 80 Sahuangal 94 Sombrero Chino 354 weather 42 sailing 27 Sosote 260 Quitsato 110 Salango 257 South Plaza 324 Salcedo 161 R student travellers 432 Salinas 255 Súa 277 Rábida 353 Salinas, Imbabura 132 surfing 25 rafting 24 Same 277 Rancho del Cañón 88 San Antonio de Ibarra 131 T Refugio de Vida Silvestre San Clemente 268 Tagus Cove 325 Pasochoa 86 San Cristóbal 324, 345 Tandayapa 93 Refugio Paz de las Aves 95 San Gabriel 139 Tandayapa Bird Lodge 96 religion 388 Sangay 184 Tarqui 268 Reserva Alto Chocó 126 Sangolquí 56, 86 tax 432 Reserva Bombolí 97 San Jacinto 268 taxi 421 Reserva Ecológica Antisana 86 San Jorge 96 telephone 432 Reserva Ecológica Cotacachi San José de Minas 111 Tena 306, 307 Cayapas 124 San Lorenzo 280 thermal springs 411 Reserva Ecológica El Angel 141 San Miguel 279 Tigua 157 Reserva Ecológica Los Ilinizas San Miguel de los Bancos 99 time zone 433 147 San Miguel Falls 172 Tinalandia 97 Reserva Ecológica Mache- San Pablo del Lago 116 tipping 433 Chindul 277 San Rafael Falls 289 Tocachi 116 Reserva Ecológica Manglares- Santa Agua Chachimbiro 133 Tolas de Gualimán 126 Churute 237 Santa Cruz 343 Tomebamba 200 Reserva Ecológica San Jorge 96 San Tadeo 93 Tortuga Bay 343 Reserva El Quinde 95 Santa Fe 324, 353 tourist information 435 Reserva Faunística Chimborazo Santa Lucía 96 tour operators 433 181 Santa Rosa 125 train travel 417 Reserva Orquideológica El Santiago 325, 354 train rides Pahuma 95 Santo Domingo de los Tsáchilas Devil’s nose 183 responsible tourism 293 270 Otavalo 123 restaurants 35 San Vicente 270 transport price codes 28 Saquisilí 161 air 415, 417 Riobamba 179, 180 Saraguro 215 bus 419 Río Chirapi 93 scuba diving 22, 368 bus travel tips 420 Río Pita 86 sculpture 393 car 419 Río Silanche 95 sea lions 338 cycling 420 river cruises 291 seals 338 hitchhiking 421 Lower Río Napo 305 Seymour Norte 354 river 416, 418 Rucu Pichincha 90 shipping 423 road 416, 418 Rumichaca 142 shopping 26 taxi 421 Rumicucho 111 Shuyo 160 train 417 Index ● 451 About the authors & correspondents

FOOTPRINT Advertisers’ index About the authors & correspondents Bellavista Cloud Forest, Ecuador 101 Hacienda Zuleta, Ecuador 134 Centro de Estudios Interamericanos Hostería Izhcayluma, Ecuador 225 (CEDEI), Ecuador 211 INCA, Ecuador 356, colour map Centro Viajero, Ecuador 244 section Chimu Adventures, UK 433 Journey Latin America, UK inside Climbing Tours, Ecuador 73 back cover Cotococha Lodge, Ecuador 314 Julio Verne Travel, Ecuador 190 Cox & Kings Travel, UK colour map La Posada del Quinde, Ecuador 117 section Magic River Tours, Ecuador 304 Ecoventura-Galápagos Network, Metropolitan Touring inside back Ecuador colour map section cover Ecuador Galápagos Travels, Safari Tours, Ecuador 79 Ecuador 76 Sangay Spa Hotel, Ecuador colour Ecuador Tourism 321, 343 map section Ecuador Treasure, Ecuador 77 Select Latin America, UK 357, 434 Enchanted Expeditions, UK 358 Sí Centro de Español e Inglés, Expediciones Apullacta, Ecuador 212 Ecuador 211 Galapagos Classic Cruises, Yacuma Jungle RcoLodge, Ecuador 355 Ecuador colour map section Galápagos Natural Life Tour Zenith Travels, Ecuador 358 Operator, Ecuador 78 trekking 25, 160 Valdivia culture 257 woodcarving 389 Cajas 202 Valle de los Chillos 56 working in Ecuador 437 Verdecocha 96 Parque Nacional Podocarpus Y 216 Vilcabamba 221, 222, 224 Parque Nacional Sangay 184 visas 436 yachting 27 Quilotoa Circuit 160 Volcán Antisana 86 Yanacocha 96 Tucanopy 94 Volcán Cayambe 110 Yanaurco 116 Tufiño 141 Volcán Chiles 141 Z volcano watching 172 Tulcán 140, 141 Zamora 311 Volcán Sumaco 298 Tulipe 93 Zaruma 247 volleyball 122 Tulipe-Pachijal 96 Zuleta 131 volunteer programmes 436 Tumbabiro 132 Zumba 222 Tungurahua 169 W Zumbahua 158 turtles 332 weather 17 Zumbi 311 U websites 436 Urbina 181 weights and measures 438 Urbina Bay 325 whale watching 259 Urcuquí 132 whitewater rafting 24 vaccinations 425 wildlife 400 Valdivia 256 women travellers 438

452 ● Footnotes Basic Spanish for travellers About the authors & correspondents

About the authors & correspondents

Robert and Daisy Kunstaetter As a little girl growing up in Quito, toward the end of each school year Daisy Isacovici would stare out her classroom window at the snow-covered slopes of Cotopaxi and dream of holidays and travel. It was destiny, perhaps, that her dreams of travelling throughout Ecuador were not fulfilled until after she met Robert. He hails from Canada, where they met, and shortly thereafter he suggested they travel around South America for a “year or so”. That was in 1986 and the year proved to be elastic, they have since lived or travelled in every country on the continent. Over the years and miles, Robert and Daisy became regular correspondents for Footprint, helping to update annual editions of the South American Handbook. Based back in Ecuador since 1993, they have been closely involved with tourism here as well as in Peru and Bolivia. They are authors, co-authors, contributors to and cartographers for numerous Footprint guidebooks. They are also authors of a trekking guide to Ecuador and are currently writing one for Peru. Robert and Daisy usually enjoy the company of their friends as well as the tranquility of their hammock, but all that changes when they are preparing a new edition. When not travelling, writing or out for morning walks during this period, they are usually sound asleep.

Correspondents Peter Schramm hails from Germany and sailed with the navy before moving to Jeaneth Barrionuevo hails from Baños Vilcabamba in 2002. He is a successful and teaches Spanish and English in hotelier with the heart of a mochilero Cuenca. Jeaneth‘s enthusiasm is as and yogi. contagious as her handwriting is neat. Popkje van der Ploeg was a journalist Jean Brown came to Ecuador from in the Netherlands before moving to England to teach in 1976, and has been Ecuador in 1994. She runs a successful studying the country ever since. She ran tour agency in Riobamba. an archaeology field school in Salango and a very successful tour agency in Quito. The depth and breadth of Jean‘s knowledge is matched only by her generosity in sharing it.

Michael Resch set out from Austria to tour the world for 17 years, before settling near Baños in 1996. Along the way he mastered the art and science of travel. He is also a master of sumak kawsay.

Footnotes About the authors & correspondents ● 453 Acknowledgements

Acknowledgements Ecuador is our home. We are passionate about its many joys and wonders, and like nothing better than talking about them. On the other side of the same coin, we get upset when we learn of another block of Oriente jungle being opened to petroleum depredation or San Rafael falls threatened by a massive hydro-electric project. Perhaps these sentiments, both our pride and our frustration, can be felt through the pages of this book. They are by and large shared by our team of correspondents, all of whom have, like us, chosen to make their lives here. This diverse dedicated team of travel professionals and professional travellers has worked hard to share their intimate knowledge of Ecuador, and we thank them warmly. They are listed above. Additional valuable contributions to this edition were made by Douglas Chang, Darcy Gaechter, Fernando Guales, Harry Jonitz, Lou Jost, Iván Suárez and Delia María Torres. We would also like to thank all of the following for their assistance, including those readers who wrote about their experiences in Ecuador: Baruch & Aviva Aziza, Jessica Belfield, Gwen Burton, Angie Chang, Miles Drury, Vilma Durán, Henry Guillén, Luis Hernández, Alexandra Lozano, Esteban Ludeña, Rodrigo Morales, Hubert Olbrich, Richard Parsons, Eliana Rhor, Katja Saubert, Nikki Sevel, Liliana Tarupi, Carla Valarezo, María Viteri, Gwen von Bargen and Roger and Pat Wagstaff. This edition is built on the hard work of several generations of Footprint travel writers and editors. We thank the entire Footprint editorial and production team, in particular Ben Box, our editors Nicola Gibbs, Jo Williams and Felicity Laughton.

Picture credits: Galápagos Islands Page 323: farbled / Shutterstock.com. Page RHIMAGE/Shutterstock.com. Page 346: 326: Alan Brookstone / Shuttestock.com. Stacy Funderburke/Shutterstock.com; Marisa Page 328: Fotos593/Shutterstock.com. Page Estivill/Shutterstock.com. Page 347: Fotos593/ 330: Jess Kraft/Shutterstock.com. Page 331: Shutterstock.com; Jess Kraft/Shutterstock. roroto12p/Shutterstock.com; Shaun Jeffers/ com. Page 348: Mint Image/SuperStock.com. Shutterstock.com. Page 332: Longjourneys/ Page 349: Ecuadorpostales/Shutterstock. Shutterstock.com. Page 333: Roland Spiegler/ com; sunsinger/Shutterstock.com; Guido Shutterstock.com; DigitalMagus/Shutterstock. Vermeulen-Perdaen/Shutterstock.com. com. Page 334: Watchtheworld/Shutterstock. Page 350: Fotos593/Shutterstock.com. Page com; Thomas O’Neil/Shutterstock.com. Page 351: Ingram Publishing/SuperStock.com; 335: Gail Johnson/Shutterstock.com. Page Steve Allen/Shutterstock.com; Alberto Loyo/ 336: Frank Wasserfuehrer/Shutterstock. Shutterstock.com. Page 352: David Thyberg/ com; photoiconix/Shutterstock.com. Page Shutterstock.com; farbled/Shutterstock.com. 337: Anna Azimi/Shutterstock.com. Page Page 353: Ammit Jack/Shutterstock.com. Anastasia Koro/Shutterstock.com; Mr. Tobin/ Page 354: Erkki & Hanna/Shutterstock.com; Shutterstock.com. Page 339: Amanda Alfie Photography/Shutterstock.com. Nicholls/Shutterstock.com; Stephen Frink/ SuperStock.com; Minden Pictures /SuperStock. Duotones Page Pages 38 and 106: com; National Geographic/SuperStock. Anton_Ivanov/Shutterstock.com. Page 144: com. Page 340: Steve Allen/Shutterstock. Ecuadorpostales/Shutterstock.com. Page com. Page 341: Minden Pictures/Superstock. 192: onairda/Shutterstock.com. Page 228: com. Page 343: Minden Pictures/Superstock. Fotos593 / Shutterstock.com. Page 252: com. Page 344: Marisa Estivill/Shutterstock. Fotos593/Shutterstock.com. Page 286: Ksenia com. Page 345: foxie/Shutterstock.com; Ragozina/Shutterstock.com.

454 ● Footnotes Acknowledgements Acknowledgements

Acknowledgements

Credits Ecuador is our home. We are passionate about its many joys and wonders, and like nothing better than talking about them. On the other side of the same coin, Footprint credits Publishing information we get upset when we learn of another block of Oriente jungle being opened to Editors: Nicola Gibbs, Jo Williams Footprint Ecuador petroleum depredation or San Rafael falls threatened by a massive hydro-electric Production and layout: Emma Bryers 8th edition project. Perhaps these sentiments, both our pride and our frustration, can be Maps: Robert Kunstaetter, Kevin Feeney © Footprint Handbooks Ltd felt through the pages of this book. They are by and large shared by our team of Colour sections: Angus Dawson, Patrick November 2015 correspondents, all of whom have, like us, chosen to make their lives here. This Dawson diverse dedicated team of travel professionals and professional travellers has ISBN: 978 1 910120 39 2 worked hard to share their intimate knowledge of Ecuador, and we thank them Publisher: Patrick Dawson CIP DATA: A catalogue record for this warmly. They are listed above. Managing Editor: Felicity Laughton book is available from the British Library Additional valuable contributions to this edition were made by Douglas Chang, Administration: Elizabeth Taylor Darcy Gaechter, Fernando Guales, Harry Jonitz, Lou Jost, Iván Suárez and Delia María Advertising sales and marketing: ® Footprint Handbooks and the Torres. We would also like to thank all of the following for their assistance, including John Sadler, Kirsty Holmes, Footprint mark are a registered those readers who wrote about their experiences in Ecuador: Baruch & Aviva Aziza, Debbie Wylde trademark of Footprint Handbooks Ltd Jessica Belfield, Gwen Burton, Angie Chang, Miles Drury, Vilma Durán, Henry Guillén, Luis Hernández, Alexandra Lozano, Esteban Ludeña, Rodrigo Morales, Hubert Photography credits Published by Footprint Olbrich, Richard Parsons, Eliana Rhor, Katja Saubert, Nikki Sevel, Liliana Tarupi, Carla Front cover: BlueOrange Studio/ 6 Riverside Court Valarezo, María Viteri, Gwen von Bargen and Roger and Pat Wagstaff. Shutterstock.com Lower Bristol Road Back cover: Top Anton_Ivanov/Shutterstock. This edition is built on the hard work of several generations of Footprint travel com. Bottom James Harrison/Shutterstock. Bath BA2 3DZ, UK writers and editors. We thank the entire Footprint editorial and production team, com T +44 (0)1225 469141 in particular Ben Box, our editors Nicola Gibbs, Jo Williams and Felicity Laughton. F +44 (0)1225 469461 Colour section Inside front cover: Ecuadorpostales/ footprinttravelguides.com Shutterstock, NaturePL/Shutterstock, KalypsoWorldPhotography/Shutterstock. Distributed in the USA by Page 1: Justin Black/Shutterstock. Page National Book Network, Inc. 2: kongsak sumano/Shutterstock. Page 4: Stefano Paterna/Superstock, Noradoa/ Shutterstock. Page 5: Fotos593/Shutterstock, Every effort has been made to ensure Ksenia Ragozina/Shutterstock, Santiago that the facts in this guidebook are Cornejo/Shutterstock, Jess Kraft/Shutterstock. accurate. However, travellers should still Page 6: Kunstatters, Robert Francis/ obtain advice from consulates, airlines, South American Pictures, Paul S. Wolf/ etc about travel and visa requirements Shutterstock. Page 7: Michael Hanson/ Superstock, Marcelina Zygula/Shutterstock, before travelling. The authors and Sergey Uryadnikov/Shutterstock. Page 10: publishers cannot accept responsibility Fotos593/Shutterstock. Page 11: Ksenia for any loss, injury or inconvenience Ragozina/Shutterstock. Page 12: Ammit Jack/ however caused. Shutterstock, Jess Kraft/Shutterstock. Page 13: Vladimir Korostyshevskiy/Shutterstock. Page 14: steve100/Shutterstock, Rafal All rights reserved. No part of this Cichawa/Shutterstock. Page 15: Hemis.fr/ publication may be reproduced, stored Superstock, RobHamm/Shutterstock, Ivan in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in Smuk/Shutterstock, Gabrielle & Michel Th/ any form or by any means, electronic, Superstock. Page 16: Fotos593/Shutterstock. mechanical, photocopying, recording, Printed in Spain by GraphyCems or otherwise without the prior permission of Footprint Handbooks Ltd.

Credits ● 455 MapMap 1 1 Ancón Ancón

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Borbón Borbón A A Las PeñasLas Peñas A A RioverdeRioverde 2 2 20 km 20 km

‘Footprint is the best – engagingly written, comprehensive, honest and bang on the ball.’ Footprint Handbook THE SUNDAY TIMES

Travel: South America UK £16.99 Ecuador & 8th edition USA $25.99 ISBN 978 1 910120 39 2 Galápagos footprinttravelguides.com ROBERT & DAISY KUNSTAETTER