BUSINESS

RAW DEAL

As the Nobu empire expands into a wing of Caesar’s, some insiders wonder if Chef Nobu Matsuhisa is over-reaching or on a roll.

as Vegas’ changing hotel scene has grown from the SINOS neon palaces of Down- A town to the spectacles of the Strip, showcasing C everything from erupting

volcanoes to pirate battles to cascading fountains of L light. As the themes became more grandiose, properties literally replicated mini-cities like Paris, New York and Venice, while others capitalized on chain restaurants like Hard E Rock, Planet Hollywood and Hooters. The R L most modern of the bunch, the Wynn and the OYA Cosmopolitan, seem to be selling a luxury llifestyle rather than a themed destination. A nnew player in town, debuting at the close of 2012, will combine a well-known restaurant brand with the lifestyle appeal. Ladies and gentlemen, introducing: Nobu, the Hotel. Caesars Palace will devote their former Centurion Tower to a boutique property of the powerhouse Japanese restaurant group. Starchitect and designer David Rockwell, who also fashioned every Nobu restaurant, will lend his signature style to 181 rooms, including 18 suites. Hotel and restaurant will mingle in several ways: A new Nobu restaurant, the brand’s largest at over 12,000 square feet and 327 seats, will reside at the A BEHIND THE SCENES foot of the tower; the accommodations will BREAKDOWN OF THE GAMING feature chef Nobu’s first ever in-room dining menu, so guests can order up bento boxes EMPIRES FROM SHOWGIRLS’ and specialties like green tea waffles with LASHES TO TRUMP’S WILD CARD braised short rib, egg and aged maple; and the chef will even have a hand in the minibars, with items like Nobu brand and Japanese rice crackers. BY Rockwell will also fuse restaurant and KATHLEEN respite. “The design is very similar to Nobu’s SQUIRES cuisine—it combines traditional Japanese mastery with South American influences,” says Rockwell, who most recently designed The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas hotel. Hotel Nobu’s elegant simplicity will be quite a departure from the opulence of the rest of Caesars Palace, a tone that is set in the unembellished, wood-tiled reception area, which Rockwell likens to “a palate cleanser to get you ready for a new experience.” The rooms will include “pops of purple and aqua,” NOBU TOWER AND RESTAURANT: CAESAR'S ENTERTAINMENT; DE NIRO, MATSUHISHA AND TEPER: GETTY IMAGES IMAGES TEPER: GETTY AND MATSUHISHA DE NIRO, ENTERTAINMENT; CAESAR'S AND RESTAURANT: TOWER NOBU

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“Before the big downturn, we were hoping to start construction and be built in two years. But time will tell when it’s time to actually start.” As basically a single-owner property, chef Palmer doesn’t have the powerful backing of a Caesars. Las Vegas expert Eric C. Gladstone, of popular Vegas blog jackcolton.com, says it’s this type of partnering that is the key to whether Nobu will be a success. “Nobu has built a really smart team of experienced hotel people. He has always built smart partnerships. Think about it—there is not a lot of failure in Nobu’s world.” So far, the odds look good for Nobu Hotel. As Sin City’s gaming profits have plunged to and feature modern and traditional Japanese an all-time low, food and artwork curated by chef Nobu. The bathrooms beverage revenue is at an will be lined with stone tiles and teak fittings. all-time high, according A teak bathing stool is a nod to the traditional to the Nevada Gaming Japanese bath. Control Board. Caesars This Japanese notion of blending past is clearly capitalizing on and future extends into the restaurant, too, that trend and banking with semi-private dining pods built for groups on drawing a whole new of 6-8 that include individual atmospheric level of guest. “Nobu is an controls at the table. “Nobu is about low tech international brand that combined with high tech,” Rockwell points out. attracts a diverse and “We think of it as high tech and high touch—it’s distinct clientele,” Vega very textured and very human.” like current partner Robert DeNiro. The Nobu says. “With Nobu, we will have a competitive brand dates back to 1994, when DeNiro and advantage to cater to a growing market of hef Nobu Matsuhisa hails from Nobu teamed up with New York restaurateur hip luxury.” the Saitama prefecture of Japan, Drew Nieporent, film producer Meier Teper and But does restaurant appeal extend into the but found his culinary voice in nightlife hospitality vet Richard Notar. hotel business? “I think it’s a natural progres- Peru. However, it was the opening With 24 restaurants on five continents, sion for chefs,” Palmer says. “Hospitality is our of his own restaurant in Beverly chef Nobu has become a worldwide culinary profession.” Kamali agrees that Nobu has that CHills, ,,g Matsuhisa, that gained him food-world celebrity. Is a name enough, however, to expand reach. “Even if you haven’t eaten in a Nobu, you accoladesaccolades andand thethe attentionattention ofof celebritiescelebrities intointo thet hotel business? And is the partnership have heard about it.” withwith CaesarsC a natural… or a natural disaster Whether or not Nobu Hotel will be an in the making? Though economists point to instant success, it is definitely poised to set recovery,recov the recession hit Las Vegas hard. The a trend. “There is a lot of me-tooism in Las economyecono has prevented at least one celebrity Vegas,” Gladstone says. “If anyone is doing chefchef from moving ahead with his own hotel something that looks like a good idea at all, brand.bra Chef Charlie Palmer of Aureole fame, a everyone else hops on top of it.” And Kamali seasonedse hand in the hotel business—with agrees with that sentiment as well. “Whether hish properties Hotel Heraldsburg in it is a good idea or bad idea or otherwise, I see Sonoma and Mystic in San Francisco— a lot more of these partnerships.” Does that announced a Vegas hotel in 2006. The mean we’ll be soon seeing celebrity-branded 2008 downturn, however, has stalled resorts with Rachael Ray, Bobby Flay or that effort. “The market has been very Wolfgang Puck? Not a bad way to ride out the tough in Las Vegas,” chef Palmer says, celebrity chef craze.

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CALL ME ISHMAEL

A thoroughly dice or card game for him, and if scientific break down he likes certain dealers, I’ll make of the great, elusive sure they are there. I might have gambling whale. a chef come right to his room. If he likes a special fish, I’ll have the chef from Milos fly in the fish from the Mediterranean that day and come in and prepare it. Afterwards, I might take them THE CURRENT WHALE IN THE US IS: to see Celine Dion, with a meet ● Male and greet. Then he’ll gamble all ● American night. He’ll get up in the morning ● Married on a Saturday, and I’ll arrange ● Under 50 years old for him to play golf at Shadow ● An entrepreneur Creek. The women might go do a ● Has a Type-A personality half spa day, half shopping day. ● Gambles $250,000- There will be more gambling, and $3,000,000 in one weekend then I’ll get him front-row seats ● Spends $30,000-$50,000 on to the fight. Then the next day, wine in one weekend Sunday, the butler will take care ● Spends up to $160,000 on of packing, and it’s back on the shopping in one weekend WHALE (noun): A moneyed mammal that keeps gaming towns private plane home.” *According to Steve Cyr aka The Whale afl oat. More than merely a big fi sh, the whale can drop millions of Hunter or the man who can arrange dollars in a weekend. In turn, casino hotels compete to gain their ON THEIR PERKS a duet with Tony Bennett, tennis with loyalty, and dollars, via ultra-luxe perks. Savvy “whale watchers” “I’ll negotiate like a Jerry McGuire Andre Agassi or a joy ride on a private put together properties and high-rolling players to ensure that for perks. I will ask, ‘If he loses jet as long as you’re willing to lay down everyone is happy. Here are some quips from VIP wrangler Steve $1,000,000, can he get a dis- $50K on your first bet. Cyr, subject of the book Whale Hunt in the Desert: Secrets of a count if he plays again before 30 Vegas Superhost by Deke Castleman (Huntington Press). days?’ Or ‘Can he split aces four times?’ Or ‘Can he double-down FAMOUS WHALES: after a split. It’s not just about ON WHO IS A WHALE AND HOW coming, and he wanted it. Flynt getting a nice suite anymore. TO SPOT ONE... will bet $40,000 a hand ... so do I Some guys want to go to the “There is a difference between want Mr. Gates’ $10,000 a day or Kentucky Derby and sit in the a high roller and a whale. A Mr. Flynt’s $40,000 a hand? I got governor’s box. I had one guy who O AN LEY high roller is anyone who will security and found Gates another MICHAELMICHAELELL JJOJORDJORDAN CHARLES BARKLEYBARK wanted to go to the Indianapolis gamble $25,000-$250,000 on place to stay.” 500 and put on a fire suit and a weekend. A whale will gamble stand in the pit.” $250,000 to a few million ON THE TYPICAL WEEKEND IN in a weekend and bet up to THE LIFE OF A WHALE …AND THEIR WACKY FBRUN LARRY FLYNTFLYNT SULTANSULTANN OOF BRUNEI $100,000-$150,000 per hand. “I’ll order a private plane to pick REQUESTS Twenty years ago, my whale was up a whale and his entourage “I had one guy who wanted to international. My whale today is on a Friday. I’ll have a limo on take a bath in a tub full of Cristal. more the $250,000 American. I the tarmac waiting for them I have one who needs to use see him once a month as opposed when they arrive. I’ve already a specific type of toilet paper. to once a year.” got his room keys, so there’s no And I have one guy who brings BRUCEBRUCEWIEEW WWIWILLISILLISL checking in. I’ll take him through a soothsayer. One time, he got …AND WHO IS QUITE a private entrance at one of the one of the best suites, but the CLEARLY NOT A WHALE big resorts, and his butlers will be soothsayer said, “Oh, no, no, no! “They are not doctors and waiting. His suite will be stocked He must be on the 17th floor—it’s TIGER WOODS lawyers. Bill Gates only with whatever he likes to eat and luckier!” So I moved him and his CYR: GILLES TOUCAS/JME PHOTO; JORDAN, SULTAN, WILLIS AND WOODS: GETTY IMAGES; BARKLEY AND FLINT: CORBIS BARKLEY IMAGES; WOODS: GETTY AND WILLIS SULTAN, JORDAN, PHOTO; TOUCAS/JME GILLES CYR: plays $10,000, and he’s drink, whether Cristal or Pabst whole entourage into standard a billionaire. I had to kick Blue Ribbon. I’ll set up the wife rooms. He lost three million that him out of a villa once with massages, a pedicure and a weekend. That’s how good his because Larry Flynt was hair stylist. I’ll organize a private soothsayer was.”

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INSIDER GAMING Three behind-the-scenes experts on how to leave with your winnings, wink like a showgirl and survive and thrive in a recession.

AL HAUSWIRTH DIANE PALM ALISSA CONTE Head Dealer Instructor, Company Manager, Director of Operations, Tao Crescent Schools, Jubilee! Bally’s, Restaurant, The Venetian New Orleans Las Vegas Hotel, Las Vegas

What do you teach your students? You’ve been with the company for 33 years. How big is the operation at Tao Restaurant? “How to properly protect the game by Is that typical of showgirls in Vegas? “I manage over 400 employees and serve keeping players from cheating and the “I would say it’s atypical. The problem with 1500 people per night. We’ve hosted consequences of dealer cheating. There’s dancers and longevity is usually injury.” everyone from Tom Cruise to Kim Kardashian more dealer theft than player theft in to Michael Jackson to Lady Gaga.” casinos. We also talk about game speed in Do you have strict rules in terms of hair and school, but we don’t push it. That comes with makeup for the girls? Tao Las Vegas is the highest-grossing res- time, knowledge, practice and experience. “We are a traditional Las Vegas production, taurant in the US. Why is it so successful? I do tell them not to be obnoxiously fast. so all the ladies in our show wear these big, “We throw a good party. We call it ‘vibe dining.’ Finally, I teach them to follow the rules and elaborate headdresses. Basically, your hair It’s not just your average come-in-and-have- procedures. Casinos don’t have a lot of rules, goes on top of your head in a ballet bun with dinner place. We have DJs and lights, and the but the rules they have are very strict.” a net around it. These hats can be quite large food is a lot better than people expect.” and quite heavy.” How can you tell if a player is cheating? How did you rise above the recession? “Noticing when they are adding to or taking How large and how heavy? “When the economy soured, we took a hit away from their bets. If they are doing it “They can go as high as three or four feet, like everybody else. We made adjustments consistently right, they might be cheating. and the lightest are 8 pounds and the heavi- and cuts, but we made sure that we kept Another is causing distraction—someone est are maybe 20 pounds. A bowling ball is the same number of service staff and didn’t might knock over a drink on the other side of 8 pounds, so think about what these women increase prices. If anything, we poured more the table or start a confrontation in order to are carrying on their heads! Our showgirls money into the business in terms of events distract you and get you to look where they have to go through rigorous physical training and promotions. In a poor economy, when want you to look.” because it takes a lot of strength to make it people are more conscious of choosing look graceful carrying that on your head.” where to go, we have to make it perfect.” What’s your best advice to gamblers? “Never gamble with your rent money. Have a Tell me about the orientation process for How is managing Tao different from an stop-loss—decide how much you are willing new girls. ordinary restaurant? to lose and stop there. And have a stop- “After basic orientation, I present them all “Provide good food, good service and keep win. This is the hardest because it is more with their first pair of eyelashes. They are the costs in line. My approach is very hands- difficult for people to leave the casino when about an inch and a half long, and they are on. There are a lot of restaurants where they are winning. So when you reach that their most important accessory. You are management is a desk job, but I am still in point, pack up, get out, keep the money. Do not a true Las Vegas showgirl without your service every night. If I wanted to sit behind a not give it back to the casino.” lashes.” desk, I would have chosen a different career.” HAUSWIRTH AND : CRESENT SCHOOLS; PALM AND SHOWGIRLS: CAESAR'S ENTERTAINMENT; CONTE: AL POWERS/TAO LAS VEGAS; TAO RESTAURANT: TAO LAS VEGAS LAS TAO RESTAURANT: TAO VEGAS; LAS AL POWERS/TAO CONTE: ENTERTAINMENT; CAESAR'S AND SHOWGIRLS: PALM SCHOOLS; AND : CRESENT HAUSWIRTH

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TRUMP CARD NUMBERS GAME

As economists point to some posi- The United States of America conjures images of stars and stripes, fields of grain and huddled immigrant masses. tive signs, recovery has been tepid, Rarely, though, do we include blackjack tables, slot machines and roulette wheels. While not as quintessentially to say the least, in Sin City. Vegas, American as baseball and apple pie, gambling is up there—it is legal in 48 states and there are more casinos in the known for its flashy, and to some, US than anywhere else in the world. Here’s a look at how Americans tried their luck in 2011: vulgar shows of wealth, has a his- tory of booming and busting. Just AGE OF US CASINO VISITORS like a certain businessman….

35-49: 21% 65 and over: 25%

21-34: 18% 50-64: 33% ?: 3% f what happens in Vegas stays in Vegas, then where has all the cash gone? Since the crash of 2008, it’s been holed-up in boom-era hopefuls CLOSE UP like City Center, The Cosmopolitan AN of Las Vegas and the gilded Trump A IG D A H V C International Hotel Las Vegas. E I N M Donald J. Trump was a newcomer Ito the Vegas hotelscape in March 2008 when he opened his eponymous 64-story hotel/condominium, Las Vegas’ tallest resi- dential tower. At the time, Trump announced “such a great seller response” to the $500 million project that he announced plans to build a second tower. Less than six months later, the US’ economic meltdown put those plans on hold. Investors scrambled to pull out, but a US District Judge ruled in Trump’s NIA favor over a “remorseful buyer” lawsuit. VA YL S Few others, save Steve Wynn, Sheldon N N E Adelson or Kirk Kerkorian, are more familiar P with Vegas’ real estate gambles than Trump himself. And he’s cautiously betting on a comeback. “It will take some time,” he told us recently. “The rest of the country has to feel IS O financially secure before spending money on IN L L I vacations and gambling. Las Vegas is largely a holiday destination, although conventions provide good revenue. Las Vegas is depen- dent on visitors to do well. When that flow picks up, so will Las Vegas.” While he admits predicting when we’ll see a turnaround is

A “tough,” he does have faith in things turning N A IS around soon. “I would hope within two years. U O L It could be sooner.” The key to success in Sin City, accord- ing to Trump, is the businesspeople who KEY: “know what makes the city tick. There are NUMBER OF OPERATING CASINOS a lot of levels to consider there: It has a big residential population in addition to CASINO EMPLYEES being a destination point.” Trump’s condos CASINO EMPLOYEE WAGES have tapped into the residential market, GROSS CASINO GAMING REVENUE and smartly, into the non-gaming lifestyle push of the new breed of hotels. Perhaps it GAMING TAX REVENUE Michigan Gaming Tourism, Commission on Nevada Board, Gaming Control Nevada Board, individual properties, Gaming Control Association, 2010, Pennsylvania American Gaming (Source: Association, Illinois Gaming Board Casino Gaming and Illinois Board, individual properties Association, Louisiana Gaming Control Louisiana Casino Board, individual properties, Control

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was the 2009 bankruptcy of his Atlantic City casino properties, The Trump Taj Mahal and Trump Plaza, which caused him to consider the non-gaming tack in Vegas. Instead, Trump International plays up the strengths of its luxury hotel, spa and Michelin-starred restaurant, DJT. Still Trump admits it’s tricky for entre- preneurs to swoop in and find overlooked opportunities in town. “In a sense Las Vegas is in a holding pattern, but it’s still a great market. I think Las Vegas has been developed well, and I’m not sure if anything has been overlooked—however, there are always opportunities,” he says. One new opportunist is restaurant mogul Nobu Matsuhisa (see pg. 50) and his star-studded partners, including Robert DeNiro. “I don’t consider [The Nobu Hotel] competition in the sense that the Trump brand is bigger and known globally,” says Trump. “It’s an interesting concept to have a chef brand hotel, but I’m not sure how well it will do. It could be very successful for a variety of reasons, and Nobu has already had a big success, which is good for everyone involved.” As to how he’s managed to weather the recession, Trump answers, “Trump International Hotel Las Vegas has done tre- mendously well. Our restaurant in the hotel, DJT, has done very well also. We remain strong in the market as people know what they’ll get when they stay in our properties, which is the best of everything.” But as always actions speak louder than words. Vegas still has yet to see ground break on Trump’s promised second tower. “At the moment we are pleased with our success there and there are no plans for expansion,” Trump says, with his expected poker face, before adding, “That could always change!” Like any good card player, he’s keeping the competition guessing. MARC ROYCE/CORBIS OUTLINE ROYCE/CORBIS MARC

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DOUBLE DOWN DINING A SPOON

FULL OF SUGAR One safe gamble? Getting a celebrity chef to back your casino’s restaurant.

Breaking down Wicked Spoon’s hile a chef-branded DAVID MYERS buffet, by the numbers hotel may be a Comme Ça novel idea, every big name in the restaurant busi- ness, from José Andrés to Geoffrey W Zakarian, has opened an eatery within a casino hotel. But chefs and restaurateurs In a casino, “everything is about a show. have to approach these projects a little So we needed to create a big theater,” differently than their other venues. says Chef Myers of his French restau- rant at The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas, where the view provides the drama. “We The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas’s upscale, have the Eiffel Tower and all the neon internationally-themed buffet, Wicked Spoon, might and drama the Strip has to offer right not be Vegas’ largest, but it has certainly made its outside the window.” mark with its extraordinary quality and clever, high- end presentation. Overseen by pedigreed chef Gerald Chin (ex-Joel Robuchon and rm seafood , there’s not a steam table or a salad bar to be found—just sleek, JOSÉ ANDRÉS EMERIL LAGASSE individually portioned meals, including fried chicken China Poblano, Burgers and served in mini fryer baskets and noodles in quaint Jaleo and é by More (BAM), Chinese take-out containers. While the gluttonous José Andrés Emeril’s Chop number of dishes you take might go straight to your House, Emeril’s waist, what’s behind won’t go to waste—leftovers Italian Table feed the hungry at the Las Vegas Rescue Mission. PRICES: Daily Brunch: $22, Weekend Brunch: $29, Andrés, whose restaurants are also at Emeril Lagasse, who operates three Dinner: $35 The Cosmopolitan, said he tries to make restaurants within the Sands Hotel NUMBER OF COOKS: 75 dining more interactive in Sin City. “This in Bethlehem, PA, says he “followed SEATS: 516 is what inspired me to have the wood-fire the Sands’ lead in the design concept, paella grill at Jaleo, and only in Vegas was as they gave homage to a piece of AVERAGE NUMBER OF DINERS PER DAY: 2500 it possible to build the grill in the middle American history.” So the stainless steel AVERAGE NUMBER OF of the restaurant. Guests love watching sculpture hanging from the ceiling in COUNTRIES REPRESENTED IN BUFFET: 21 the open flame, the large paella pans and Emeril’s Chop House hearkens to the the cooks—it’s part of the experience.” steel industry history of Bethlehem. AVERAGE NUMBER OF SAVORY DISHES: 76 AVERAGE NUMBER OF DESSERTS: 23

AVERAGE NUMBER OF DISHES AT VEGAS' LARGEST TAKAYAMA JOHN BESH BUFFET, BACCHANAL BUFFET AT CAESARS: 500 Tetsu Besh Steak AVERAGE WAIT ON A SATURDAY NIGHT: 20 mins LONGEST WAIT ON A SATURDAY NIGHT: 45 mins LENGTH OF CASES OF STRAWBERRIES USED DAILY, STACKED: 35 feet POUNDS OF KOREAN SHORT RIBS USED DAILY: 250 If the teppan tables at new restaurant In Harrah’s New Orleans, local hero Besh EGGS USED DAILY: 1,500 Tetsu at the ARIA make you want to says the casino’s deep pockets certainly BACON USED DAILY: 20 pounds double down, it’s because they are helped him create his restaurant, which intentionally “similar to blackjack tables,” opened in 2003. “I had capital at my WHOLE ROTISSERIE CHICKENS USED DAILY: 50 says the chef, who is famed for his three- fingertips like I’ve never had before.” AVERAGE AMOUNT OF SHRIMP USED DAILY: Michelin-starred restaurant in . Besh adds that having luxury items on 50 pounds the menu was essential. “There had to be NUMBER OF PEOPLE FED BY LAS VEGAS things that screamed attention. You’re RESCUE MISSION IN 2011: 339,863 there to celebrate.” WICKED SPOON: THOMAS HART SELBY; MYERS: DENISE TRUSCELLO; ANDRÉS: COSMOPOLITAN LAS VEGAS; LAGASSE: ALYSSHA EVE CSUK/SANDS CASINO RESORT BETHLEHEM; TAKAYAMA: MGM RESORTS; BESH: HARRAH'S NEW ORLEANS NEW BESH: HARRAH'S MGM RESORTS; TAKAYAMA: BETHLEHEM; RESORT CASINO EVE CSUK/SANDS ALYSSHA LAGASSE: VEGAS; LAS ANDRÉS: COSMOPOLITAN TRUSCELLO; MYERS: DENISE SELBY; HART THOMAS WICKED SPOON: NOVEMBER 2012 58 GO MAGAZINE

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