Climbing Spirit/Duh Plezanja
Total Page：16
File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb
Load more
Recommended publications
-
Gear Brands List & Lexicon
Gear Brands List & Lexicon Mountain climbing is an equipment intensive activity. Having good equipment in the mountains increases safety and your comfort level and therefore your chance of having a successful climb. Alpine Ascents does not sell equipment nor do we receive any outside incentive to recommend a particular brand name over another. Our recommendations are based on quality, experience and performance with your best interest in mind. This lexicon represents years of in-field knowledge and experience by a multitude of guides, teachers and climbers. We have found that by being well-equipped on climbs and expeditions our climbers are able to succeed in conditions that force other teams back. No matter which trip you are considering you can trust the gear selection has been carefully thought out to every last detail. People new to the sport often find gear purchasing a daunting chore. We recommend you examine our suggested brands closely to assist in your purchasing decisions and consider renting gear whenever possible. Begin preparing for your trip as far in advance as possible so that you may find sale items. As always we highly recommend consulting our staff of experts prior to making major equipment purchases. A Word on Layering One of the most frequently asked questions regarding outdoor equipment relates to clothing, specifically (and most importantly for safety and comfort), proper layering. There are Four basic layers you will need on most of our trips, including our Mount Rainier programs. They are illustrated below: Underwear -
2020 Antarctica Trekking Gear List | Ice Axe Expeditions
2020 TREKKING GEAR LIST ANTARCTICA ADVENTURE & SKI CRUISE This list will allow for a participant to access trekking terrain. We do not provide gear rentals and suggest you contact your local gear shop should you need to rent any equipment. Should you choose not to bring the required equipment we cannot guarantee participation in trekking activities. TREKKING GEAR Snowshoes - Tubbs Wilderness Series Snowshoe - MSR Lightning Explore - Atlas 10 Series Snowshoe Waterproof boots. Your boots will need to be waterproof and high enough to keep the snow out. You may consider a combination of snowboots with gaitors as an option as well. (The rubber boots provided on the boat are very flimsy and will not be great for snowshoeing). - Baffin Evolution Boot – Men’s - Salomon Toundra Mid WP Winter Boot – Women’s - Sorel Cumberland Boot – Women’s Poles - Black Diamond Pure Distance Carbon FLZ Trekking Poles (carbon version) - Black Diamond Distance FLZ Trekking Pole (aluminum version) - Black Diamond Whippet Self Arrest Pole (hybrid ski pole & ice axe) Ice Axe – 50cm+, light alloy shaft and steel pick are recommended. - Black Diamond Raven Pro (lightweight glacier & snow axe) - Petzl Glacier Ice Axe (lightweight glacier & snow axe) Ice Axe Tip & Spike Protector (important for Zodiac loading) - Black Diamond Pick and Spike Protectors - Petzl Pick & Spike Protectors Light Ski Mountaineering Harness - Black Diamond Couloir Harness (minimal ski harness) - Black Diamond Alpine Bod Harness (very basic alpine harness) Screw-gate Locking Carabiner - 1x (pear-shaped is preferred). - Black Diamond Nitron Screw Gate Locking Carabiner - Petzl Spirit 3D Screw Gate Locking Carabiner Standard Carabiner – 1x (non locking) - Black Diamond Hotwire Carabiner (good all around carabiner) - Black Diamond Neutrino Carabiner (small, superlight) Ski Pack (25 to 35 liter with a strap system to carry skis. -
Stevie Haston Aleš Česen Malcolm Bass Tom Ballard Steve Skelton F.Lli Franchini Korra Pesce
# 33 Stile Alpino Luoghi & Montagne MONTE BIANCO BHAGIRATHI III CIVETTA KISHTWAR SHIVLING GASHERBRUM IV HIMALAYA MALTA TAULLIRAJU Protagonisti STEVIE HASTON ALEš ČESEN MALCOLM BASS TOM BALLARD STEVE SKELTON F.LLI FRANCHINI KORRA PESCE Speciale PILASTRO ROSSO DEL BROUILLARD In collaborazione con: ALPINE STUDIO EDITORE Trimestrale anno VIII n° 33 settembre 2016 (n. 3/2016) € 4,90 La giacca più leggera e impermeabile del momento LIGHTWEIGHT WITHOUT COMPROMISE MINIMUS 777 JACKET Con un peso di soli 139g, la Minimus 777 è una giacca per Alpinismo e da Trail di una leggerezza estrema, con 3 strati impermeabili, una traspirabilità elevata e una comprimibilità senza precedenti. Pertex® Shield + exclusive technology: 7 denier face, 7 micron membrane, 7 denier tricot backer montane.eu La giacca più leggera e EDITORIAL # 33 impermeabile del momento • Firstly I would like to openly admit that I do not really like to write about or com- ment on other peoples mountaineering endeavors, because it is impossible to comple- tely understand an experience in the mountains unless you have lived it yourself. Ten years after my predecessor I will have the difficult task to replace Fabio Palma in writing the editorials of Stile Alpino. Certainly he is better skilled than me in writing and has been one of the creators of this magazine founded by the Ragni di Lecco group. Nonetheless, I will try to be up to the job helping to select the last ascents around the world and to suggest new places but always taking care to include ascents in the Alps and close to home. The objective of Stile Alpino is to improve and steadily grow in order to publish ar- ticles, that might not have been published before, on ascents in unknown or known areas. -
For the Reh~ of the Day
for the reh~ of the day. Setting o~tt at three A.M. on May 30, they evacuated Camp II and dcsccndcd to Camp I at seven A.M. and to Base Camp at ~cn A.M. Camp I was evacuated on May 3 I and Base Camp on June I WC got 10 La&en on J~tnc 2. We ~tsetl no fixed ropes. WC had 1‘0~11.8tnm ropes only (two for cad1 party) and so the ascent was semi-alpine-style. Our route was the same as that of the previous parIies. S’i/t/o/c/~l/ Attrnrpt. Our expedition wa\ composed of Sen Hiraiami, Atau\hi Koyama. Ryouke Wakuuwa and I as lea&r. On May 8. we reached only 3X00 meter\ aticl had to turn bath beca~i~ of bad weather and a tight schedule. We established Baw Camp at Yabuk at 3978 meter< on May 3. Advance Base at 4570 meters on May 5 and after closing the Zctnu Glacter. Camp I at 4600 meter\ on the Siniolchu Glacier on May 7. This wa\ really a reconnaissance for 1995. M,zG\~o NOV. M.D., 7i,lroX~r U/tr~~/.\it\, SC/too/ c~fMdic,ir7c, h/m Ktrhu, Sr~tl7. An Indian Army expedition led by Colonel H.S. Chaukan, former head of the Hitnalaynn Mountaineering Institute in Manali claitns to have climbed Kabru South (7.3 17 meters, 24.096 feet) for the first time. It is reported that I.3 mcmbcrs reached the top led by Captain S.P. -
Winter Crevasse Rescue and Glacier Travel Day 3 – Ski Mountainee
Day 1 – Winter Crevasse Rescue and Glacier Travel ● Lesson 1: Introduction to Glacier Kit ● Lesson 2: Equalized anchor, knots and rappelling ● Lesson 3: Ascending the rope – prussic, ratchet, reverse ● Lesson 4: Situational awareness, review hazards ● Lesson 5: Glacier travel rope handling & crevasse rescue ● Lesson 6: Dividing the rope ● Lesson 7: The prussik ● Lesson 8: Arresting the fall, holding the victim and anchor building ● Lesson 9: Backing up anchor and approaching the lip ● Lesson 10: Canadian drop loop system demo ● Lesson 11: Incorporating a ratchet ● Lesson 12: First raise method, z-pulley raising system, adding advantage. ● Lesson 13: Reversing the raise & lowering ● Lesson 14: Crevasse Rescue Scenario ● Lesson 15: Problem-solving specific scenario Day 2 – Winter Crevasse Rescue and Glacier Travel ● Lesson 16: Rope up point strategy (map & altimeter) & white out plan ● Lesson 17: Glacier formation, physiology, terminology and travel including rope handling and taking coils ● Lesson 18: Safe glacier travel route finding & track setting – crevasse avoidance, serac hazard mitigation, dealing with avalanche terrain, crevasse bridge integrity and evaluation ● Lesson 19: Traveling in echelon & belaying across crevasse bridges ● Lesson 20: Downhill glacier skiing safety strategy Day 3 – Ski Mountaineering Skills Day ● Lesson 1: “Snow and ice school” – introduction to ski mountaineering equipment, ski crampons and boot crampons, ice axe. ● Lesson 2: Ascending/descending and moving in steeper firmer/crusted/icy slopes. ● Lesson 3: Belaying and rappelling, anchors. ● Lesson 4: Roped vs. unroped terrain – belaying, rope management, short roping, boot packing, stowing the skis on the pack, ridge walking. Day 4 – Ski Mountaineering Skills Day ● Lesson 5: Ski mountaineering objective: situational awareness, route finding and track setting in Class 3 (complex) terrain. -
Christophe Dumarest
THE CLIMB INTERVIEW Lucia Prosino talks to CHRISTOPHE DUMAREST France is renowned as a country of exceptional climbers and outstanding mountaineers. Christophe Dumarest is no exception. Behind this highly skilled athlete, however, lies an inventive and attentive person, always ready to crack a joke and eager to share his experiences with others. He’s climbed extensively in the Greater Ranges and opened many new routes in the Alps, such as Tifenn (V6 A1 M8+, 1100 m) on the Aiguille Sans Nom, Destruction Massive (M7/IV, 400m) on the north face of the Tournier Spur on the Droites, and Jean-Chri (7a+, A1, 800 m) on the, Hidden Pillar of Freney. He’s also repeated some of the famous hard modern classics in the range, such as the Lesueur Route (ED3, M8+, 900 m) on the north face of the Dru, and the Gousseault/Desmaison (M7+, 1100m) route with a direct variation. But he prefers to spend his time devising his next enchainments, with a keen eye on the aesthetics of the mountain range in question, and the historical aspects of the routes he chooses to link up. Lucia Prosino recently spoke to Christophe about his life and climbs, the role of ethics in the sport, and the enduring respect he has for British climbers and mountaineers. Mont Blanc is your home and your playground. (Largo’s Route, ED1, W16, M5 X 5c). Why are a lot of Can you still write history there? strong alpinists going to China these days? Well I started going to the mountains aged four, and before ten I China is an immense country, rich in history and traditions, had already gone up a 4000 metre peak in the Mont Blanc area, all still pretty much unknown. -
The Alps 2008
Area Notes 181. Simon Pierse, Ciarforon from Rifugio Vittorio Emanuele II, 2006, watercolour, 42 x 59cm 245 Area Notes COMPILED AND EDITED BY PAUL KNOTT Alps 2008 Lindsay Griffin Greenland 2008 Derek Fordham Scottish Winter 2008-2009 Simon Richardson Morocco 2005-9 Mike Mortimer India 2008 Harish Kapadia Nepal 2008 Dick Isherwood Pakistan 2007 Lindsay Griffin and Dick Isherwood China and Tibet John Town New Zealand 2008-9 Kester Brown Cordillera Blanca Antonio Gómez Bohórquez Argentine Andes 2008 Marcelo Scanu 246 LINDSAY GRIFFIN The Alps 2008 This selection of ascents in 2008 could not have been written without the help of Jonathan Griffith, Andrej Grmovsek, Tomaz Jakofcic, Rolando Larcher, Tony Penning, Claude Rémy, Hilary Sharp, Luca Signorelli and Ueli Steck. tarting in late June, Diego Giovannini and Franco ‘Franz’ Nicolini took S60 days to complete the first non-mechanised link-up of all 82 Alpine 4000m summits that appear on the UIAA’s official list. The pair opted to track from west to east, ending with Piz Bernina. Until the early 1990s there was no definitive list; some opting for as low as 52 (the number of completely separate mountains), others adding more, with alpine specialist Richard Goedecke listing a staggering 150 individual tops and bumps. At the end of 1993, in an attempt to put an end to the debate, a joint UIAA and Italian Alpine Club committee came up with an ‘official’ list of 82, which they hoped would be used as the benchmark for future attempts. This list came too late for Simon Jenkins and Martin Moran, who in the same year made the first non-mechanised traverse of 74 summits from the Piz Bernina to the Barre des Ecrins. -
New Yorker Magazine
ANNALS OF ADVENTURE THE MANIC MOUNTAIN Ueli Steck and the clash on Everest. BY NICK PAUMGARTEN TH RIFFI G AN H NAT JO 46 THE NEW YO R K E R , J U N E 3 , 2 0 1 3 TNY—2013_06_03—PAGE 46—133SC.—LIVE ART R23602—EXTREMELY CRITICAL PHOTOGRAPH TO BE WATCHED THROUGHOUT THE ENTIRE PRESS RUN 4C eli Steck’s closest brush with death, many of whom work as porters and guides April 27th was the day that a team of or at least the time he thought it like- for the commercial expeditions on Ever- Sherpas were installing the fixed rope. It liestU that he was about to die, came not est. This was on the first day that the is an essential and difficult job, involving when he plummeted seven hundred feet weather cleared for a summit push. The heavy gear and extreme working condi- down the south face of Annapurna, or next day, the crowds went up—hundreds tions on an ice cliff riddled with crevasses. spidered up the Eiger’s fearsome North of aspirants, most of them clients of com- The day before, the Sherpas, with help Face alone and without ropes in under mercial companies, and their Sherpas— from three Western guides, had nearly three hours, or slipped on wet granite and, amid the traffic jam approaching the completed the job but came to an untra- while free-climbing the Golden Gate summit, four climbers died, of exposure versable crevasse, which had forced them route of El Capitan with his wife, on their and cerebral edema. -
Australian Mountaineering in the Great Ranges of Asia, 1922–1990
25 An even score Greg Child’s 1983 trip to the Karakoram left him with a chaotic collage of experiences—from the exhilaration of a first ascent of Lobsang Spire to the feeling of hopelessness and depression from losing a friend and climbing partner. It also left his mind filled with strong memories—of people, of events and of mountains. Of the images of mountains that remained sharply focused in Child’s mind, the most enduring perhaps was not that of K2 or its satellite 8000 m peaks. It was of Gasherbrum IV, a strikingly symmetrical trapezoid of rock and ice that presided over Concordia at the head of the Baltoro Glacier (see image 25.1). Though far less familiar than Ama Dablam, Machhapuchhare or the Matterhorn, it is undeniably one of the world’s most beautiful mountains. Child said: After Broad Peak I’d promised myself I would never return to the Himalayas. It was a personal, emphatic, and categoric promise. It was also a promise I could not keep. Again and again the symmetrical silhouette of a truncated, pyramidal mountain kept appearing in my thoughts: Gasherbrum IV. My recollection of it from the summit ridge of Broad Peak, and Pete’s suggestion to some day climb its Northwest Ridge, remained etched in my memory.1 Gasherbrum IV offered a considerable climbing challenge in addition to its beauty. Remarkably, the peak had been climbed only once—in 1958, by its North-East Ridge by Italians Carlo Mauri and Walter Bonatti. There are at least two reasons for its amazing lack of attention. -
1 L'éthique DE L'escalade LIBRE Dimension Dogmatique Des Conflits
L'ÉTHIQUE DE L'ESCALADE LIBRE dimension dogmatique des conflits normatifs Jean Pierre MALRIEU Docteur en Sciences Politiques et Sociales [email protected] Nous voudrions éclairer d'un point d'histoire – la transition d'une éthique californienne vers une éthique française en escalade libre – les mécanismes par lesquels certains signes de la modernité triomphent de certains autres. Immergés dans ces signes et ces images, nous en connaissons les mutations de masse. Pour ce qui concerne l’escalade, la concomitance de ces mutations affectant les représentations a même été bien étudiée (Pociello 91, Corneloup 93). La thèse centrale de ces travaux est que l’escalade moderne, sport “californien”, est née d’une rupture avec l’alpinisme classique. S’appuyant sur une enquête de terrain menée sur les grimpeurs de Fontainebleau, leurs auteurs ont proposé une typologie des grimpeurs (Pociello & Corneloup 93) reflétant la fracture entre escalade californienne et alpinisme classique, mais aussi les différenciations successives de l’escalade californienne en ses tendances “aventure”, “hédoniste” et “sportive”. A l’intérieur de ces approches d’ordre structuraliste, où chaque pratique ne prend son sens que rapportée à la position des acteurs au sein d’un système, on met à jour des rapports d’homologie entre les distinctions observées dans le champ de l’escalade et celles observées dans la société. Enfin, une étude sémiotique du champ de communication symbolique (média à diverses échelles) qui double le champ des pratiques, a pu établir que l’escalade reflète l’air du temps, ici conceptualisé comme post-modernité (Corneloup 93). Bien qu’il représente une avancée considérable dans le domaine de la sociologie de l’escalade, on pourrait faire trois critiques à cet ensemble de travaux. -
Dom & Täschhorn
DOM & TÄSCHHORN KRONE DER MISCHABEL Herausgegeben von Daniel Anker, Caroline Fink und Marco Volken Texte: Daniel Anker, Caroline Fink, Martin Rickenbacher, Marco Volken, Emil Zopfi Historische Texte: John Llewelyn Davies, Josef Imseng,Arnold Lunn, Mary Mummery, Geoffrey Winthrop Young Fotos: Marco Volken, Daniel Anker, Caroline Fink, Gabriel Voide und andere Illustrationen: Esther Angst BERGMONOGRAFIE 17 Josef Anton Berchtold und seine Kathedralen Dom und Domherr Eine Recherche von Martin Rickenbacher Stellen wir uns vor: Ein Domherr, in we- Der Berg und sein Namens- hender Soutane, das Birett auf dem Kopf, geber: Dom, mit der Kamera steht auf einem Berg und misst mit einem angepeilt von der Belalp aus (linke Seite). Domherr Theodolit die Winkel zwischen den um- Josef Anton Berchtold liegenden Gipfeln.Welch‘ herrliches Bild! (1780–1859), gemalt von Kein Wunder also, dass Josef Anton seinem Freund Lorenz Justin Berchtolds Leben – um ihn handelt es sich Ritz im Jahre 1847. Das beim Mann in der Soutane – denn auch Bild – es ist das dritte Porträt von Ritz – hängt im schon gut dokumentiert ist. In erster Linie Rathaus von Sitten (oben). durch zahlreiche Beiträge des Historikers Anton Gattlen. Im Rhonetal ist die Erin- Eine solch klare Sicht, wie auf der Foto der vor- nerung an diese ausserordentliche Persön- angehenden Doppelseite, lichkeit auch heute noch lebendig, wovon hat Berchtold bei der Ver- nicht zuletzt die Rue du Chanoine messung des Wallis jeweils Berchtold in Sitten zeugt. sehr geschätzt: Blick vom Josef Anton Berchtold erblickte am 27. Juni Klein Matterhorn über den 1780 als viertes Kind einer Bauernfamilie in nach einem Theologiestudium an einer Rücken des Gornergrates (unten) hinweg auf die Greich ob Mörel das Licht derWelt. -
Issue 01/2019
01 2019 THE MESSE MÜNCHEN MAGAZINE MESSE MÜNCHEN MAGAZINE 01 2019 THE DISCOVERY OF LIGHT How optical technologies are revolutionizing our lives ON RISK Climbing veteran Stefan Glowacz and investor Benedict Rodenstock on the art of making the right decision IN SAFETY How cyberexperts on secret missions find data leaks in companies BAVARIA HAS THE BEST PLACES TRADE FAIRS, CONFERENCES, WORKSHOPS – Bavaria o ers the perfect location for every event. Whether aristocratic, traditional or close to the city – be inspired for your next meeting or event. www.bavaria.by/conferences-events ANZEIGE Andreas Pohlmann Photo: Peacock Throne in Linderhof Castle © bayern.by - Gert Krautbauer © bayern.by Castle in Linderhof Throne Peacock www.bavaria.by EDITORIAL DEAR READERS » A visit to the trade fair means: experiencing trends in real time and up close. « It’s time for some exercise! With the opening of our company gym at the Messehaus ( administrative building), employees of Messe for example, at the Laser World of Photonics, other Messe München employees in the München have been able to keep fit in the where the resource of light takes center stage. Creators section. How are you getting fit workplace on a daily basis since the beginning Light is old, older than humanity—and yet for New Work? Write to me on my personal of the year. A health coach helps employees one of the most exciting industries of the LinkedIn account. find their own personal balance between health future is growing up around light and optical and work commitments. technologies: photonics. The cover story of this issue reveals the many uses of this futuristic We’re keeping pace! In the past year, Messe technology, in which Germany is a leader.