Costa Rica Is a Land of Great Beauty, Extraordinary Biological Riches, and Warm, Friendly People. but the Same Could Be Said for Many Tropical Countries
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HISTORY & CULTURE Costa Rica is a land of great beauty, extraordinary biological riches, and warm, friendly people. But the same could be said for many tropical countries. This narrative focuses on what is truly unique about Costa Rica, and how it came to be the very special place it is. Costa Rica is remarkably different from its neighbors in Central America, and has been fortunate in escaping many of the problems that affect the region as a whole. Christopher Columbus (or Cristobal Colón, as his name is said in Spanish) reached Costa Rica on his fourth and final voyage in 1502. The natives Columbus encountered on the beach were wearing gold jewelry, leading Columbus to the incorrect assumption that there were rich gold mines nearby, and hence the name, Costa Rica, or Rich Coast. The indigenous peoples in Costa Rica at the time belonged to nine tribes—the Chorotega (which lived in the San Luis/ Monteverde area), the Boruca, the Brunca, the Bribri, the Huetar, and a few others. These groups formed loose bands, and subsisted by hunting, gathering, and simple agriculture, growing beans, squash, corn, cotton, and various tubers. Though they were contemporary, they did not have the sophisticated level of civilization of the Aztec in México or the Inca of Perú. Archaeologists do encounter beautiful artifacts and elaborately decorated objects in Costa Rica. The National Museum and the Gold Museum in San José is filled with these kinds of items; they are found quite frequently by farmers throughout the Costa Rican countryside. Most importantly: • the local indigenous people were not in high density, and a great many of them were killed in early skirmishes with the colonists. Most of the remainder succumbed to European diseases brought by the Spaniards... • they did not have the integrated, complex civilizations which the Spaniards found elsewhere in Central America¼. • and they did not willingly interact with the Spaniards. Thus immediately, a major difference is evident between Costa Rica’s early colonial period and that of the rest of Central America: there was no possibility of dominating and enslaving Indians as a work force, because there were few Indians left alive. King Philip of Spain wanted nothing to do with the new colony, as it clearly had no major potential as a source of gold. Lacking natural resources and a labor force, noble Europeans stayed away from Costa Rica. Instead, Costa Rica was settled by commoners willing to work their own land. The Spanish colonists had to fend for themselves, feed themselves, and learn how to survive on their own. Although there was plenty of land available to plant, each family held only as much land as it could till; they had no labor (slave or otherwise) but themselves. The colony was essentially cut off from Europe as it had nothing to export. Trading with the outside was difficult in any case, as there were constant pirate raids, and the British navy blockaded Caribbean ports when it was at war with Spain. The culture that was being shaped during these early days had certain clear features; it • placed great value on self-reliance and independence • showed respect for drive, entrepreneurship, and resourcefulness • was egalitarian in the extreme • respected the dignity of labor • and was close to the land. Few missionaries were sent, as Costa Rica did not have large numbers of indigenous people to be converted to Catholicism. The role of the Catholic church in Costa Rica’s early history was thus rather different than that elsewhere in Central America. And because there was no unruly or unwilling labor force to control, Costa Rica never had the type of large military presence that was seen in other parts of Central America. The first capital was established in the town of Cartago, at the eastern end of the Central Valley, just under the shadow of the Irazú Volcano, the tallest volcano in Costa Rica. There the colonists built a church in honor of the patroness of Costa Rica, la Virgen de los Ángeles, whose image was found nearby miraculously carved in stone. The basilica, built of stone, was destroyed several times by earthquakes related to activity of the Irazú Volcano, and each time was rebuilt anew. The decision was finally made to rebuilt the basilica in wood and this building still stands, having now withstood a number of major eruptions and earthquakes. The Basilica de la Virgen de los Ángeles is one of Costa Rica’s most significant architectural and cultural treasures. And so the colony survived, always poor in material wealth, largely in isolation from the rest of Central America and Europe, but developing its own unique character and strengths. The population settled largely in the central valley or Meseta Central, with centers developing in San José, Alajuela, Heredia, and Grecia. The population density remained low, and most people lived on small family farms. There was land for everyone, and no one held huge amounts of property. With virtually no contact with indigenous people, the way of life of the early Costa Ricans was essentially European. Nowhere does one see the native American influence---the spicy seasonings, the brilliant textiles, the linguistic influence, or the ceramics, carvings, metal- working, and other art forms--which is so evident in the mainstream cultures of other Latin American countries today. Things remained largely unchanged until the early 1800’s when one key event altered dramatically Costa Rica’s prospects and began to shape a different future for the country. The event was the introduction of coffee. Originally from Africa, coffee thrives best with a cool, tropical climate with relatively fertile soils, exactly as is found with the mid-elevation volcanic soils of Costa Rica. Coffee proved to be ideally suited to conditions in Costa Rica. Coffee at that time was hugely popular in Europe, creating a demand which was for all practical purposes insatiable. In a government move designed to encourage planting of coffee, land was granted to anyone who would agree to grow coffee. For the first time, Costa Rica had a valuable product that it could produce for export; a ready market; and the opportunity to acquire wealth. The practice of homesteading land to acquire title is still legal, and is still practiced; Costa Rica’s land laws are explicitly designed to put land in the hands of as many people as possible, and to prevent huge holdings that preclude others from owning land. Whether you refer to this process as “settling”, “homesteading”, or “squatting” depends on your stake in the issue; but Costa Rica law strongly defends the rights of those who show the highest need for the land. The capital outlay necessary to start growing and harvesting coffee, processing the beans, transporting them to the port, marketing and shipping the beans was handled by forming coffee cooperatives--small family farms joined forces with one another, sharing the major costs, and then sharing the profits proportionally at the end of the season. Some families in Costa Rica established substantial fortunes in the coffee industry at this time, and many of these families are still in the forefront of Costa Rican society, politics, and wealth. Some common brands of coffee still bear the names of the important coffee families, such as Volio coffee. This pattern of land tenure remains predominant today in Costa Rica: small family farms united by cooperatives, rather than enormous agribusiness enterprises, are used for production of most crops; the exceptions---bananas and palm oil to name two---are interesting in their own right, and are discussed below. Transportation remained a problem---there was still no road from the central valley to the Caribbean. The unstable, mountainous terrain, high rainfall, dense tropical forest crisscrossed by river gorges, and steep cliffs, made it impossible to make a road large enough for a wheeled vehicle. The only traffic to the Caribbean was on foot and by horseback. Shipping of coffee to Europe was therefore done from the Pacific port of Puntarenas, from where the ships sailed the long way around, undertaking the very dangerous and stormy voyage around the Horn. The trip from San José to Esparza (one of the important early way-stations) and then on to Puntarenas took a week by oxcart; the trip takes a couple of hours at most today. The new-found wealth which Costa Rica was enjoying from coffee revenues brought with it new opportunities. One of the first decisions was to levy upon the coffee growers a voluntary tax which would be used to build the National Theater, a move designed to attract visits by musicians, orchestras, singers, and dramatic groups. The building, which was completed around 1865, was modeled after the Paris Opera House, and was built of materials imported from all over Europe---marble from Italy, stone, wood, and metals, as needed---and using craftsmen, artisans, and builders brought from Europe for the purpose. The results were as hoped for. San José became a cultural center, and the world’s best performers began to include Costa Rica on their Western Hemisphere tours. This edifice is well worth visiting when you are in San José, and if there is a performance scheduled, so much the better---tickets are very cheap, making the performances available to everyone. A second decision for the expenditure of coffee revenues was to send the country’s younger generation away to be educated in the world’s best universities in Europe, primarily France. This they did, and the timing was propitious: Europe at this time was undergoing a social and intellectual upheaval, with such revolutionary notions as individual freedoms, civil liberties, the responsibility of the state to its citizens, social welfare, labor rights, universal education, democratic ideals, and egalitarianism.