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Articles The Reykjavík Grapevine crew 06 Why the Gay Pride Festival Isn’t for Páll Óskar The Reykjavík Grapevine An interview with one of the Gay Pride organizers Hafnarstræti 15, 2nd floor 14 Cheap Way to Work or a Big Damn Hassle? www.grapevine.is Eliza Reid uses the new bus system [email protected] Published by: Fröken ehf. eatures F Editor: 540-3602 / [email protected] Advertising: 540-3605 / 616-7731 / [email protected] Mourning The Old Giant 16 Marketing: 540-3603 / 869-7796 / [email protected] A Londoner in Iceland on the Effects of July 7 Distribution: 540-3601 / 694-2538 / [email protected] Production: 540-3608 / 849-5611 / [email protected] The Professionals 18 Listings: 552-3600 / 847-9290 / [email protected] A Very Expensive Hour with Barði and Krummi Subscription: 540-3601 / 694-2538 / [email protected] 22 Turning the City into the Suburbs. The Future of Reykjavík Publisher: Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson / [email protected] Editor: Bart Cameron / [email protected] Marketing Director: Jón Trausti Sigurðarson / Essentials [email protected] Production Manager: Oddur Óskar Kjartansson / 27 Gay Pride Celebration [email protected] Art Direction: Hörður Kristbjörnsson / [email protected] 30 The Pond and Beyond Jóhannes Kjartansson / [email protected] Grapevine Picks for Museums and Galleries Staff Journalist: Paul Fontaine-Nikolov / [email protected] Editorial Intern: Sari Peltonen / [email protected] Night and Day: Two Very Different Approaches, 32 Advertising Sales: Aðalsteinn Jörundsson / [email protected] If Shirts Are Your Thing Helgi Þór Harðarson / [email protected] 33 Foreigner’s Guide to Vegetarian Eating Photographs: Hörður Sveinsson / [email protected] Guðmundur Freyr Vigfússon / [email protected] 34 Dining, Eating and Grubbing Charlie Strand / [email protected] Heidi Hartwig / [email protected] 35 Bezt Í Heimi Frímann Kjerúlf / [email protected] Hornið: The Chianti in Wicker Kind of Classy Proofreader: Erika Wolfe Distribution: Jóhann Páll Hreinsson

Music & Nightlife Cover Photo by: Gunnar Hannesson (1915-1976) On cover: Reykjavík’s landmark church, Hallgrímskirkja, 40 Album Reviews being built somewhere between the years 1968 - 1976. Thanks to: Gunnar Egill Egilsson and Ingólfur Egilsson. 41 t.ATu: Good Music, Sleazy Origins Printed by: Ísafoldarprentsmiðja ehf. # of copies: 30.101 42 Pimp My Country Snoop Dogg, Hæsta hendin, Hjálmar, Forgotten Lores. Egilshöll Stadium, July 17 We are always looking for articles. Send your submissions to : [email protected] Arts & Culture

45 Cabaret at the Icelandic Opera You may not like it, but at least it's not sponsored. (No articles in the Reykjavík Grapevine are pay-for articles. 46 Come On, People. How Deep Do Your Cartoons Have to Be? The opinions expressed are the writers’ own, not the advertisers’.) Review of Madagascar 47 Shelved Books Worth a Second Look Outside Reykjavík

50 Snæfellsnes on a Budget 52 Grapevine on Tour: Festivals in Spain and the Faroe Islands Other

47 Technology Review: Things to Fear 48 The Violent Outburst of Graphic Design 54 The Nohito and Other Brennevín Cocktails

LETTERS Complaints, criticism, suggestions, praise, money, anything at all: Contact [email protected] or send your mail to: The Reykjavík Grapevine, Hafnarstræti 15, 101 Reykjavík.

RE: Fan Mail, really… medium, and I have been ecstatic to be Hi, Bart away from it. If you think it’s hard to We thoroughly enjoyed the last Back in January when I followed read dumb stuff, you have no idea how issue. I haven’t finished it all yet, Bart and Ed's tag team of idiocy, painful it is to write it. Or to have it but I especially liked Prof Hydrogen otherwise known as "Daily Life from quoted back to you. and the Puffin dude. As a Canadian, Iceland," I would often log on and The main reasons for the recent I can relate to such a superhero. think to myself, ok, what are Beavis success of the Grapevine have been the Naturally, we really liked reading and Butthead up to now. Not only support, and the forgiveness, of readers the editorial. We were preening for was the writing arrogant, cynical, like yourself, the support we’ve gotten days over it. One of our Icelandic and completely ethnocentric, but the from the community at large, and the acquaintances even recognized us, subject matter was downright boring hard work of the staff here, all of whom since we had mentioned to her days and mind-numbingly repetitive. have dealt with both my demands and before that we had stopped by your Plus, I wondered, how could these my haircuts admirably. office. Are you getting lots of fan two guys live in Reykjavik and have Regarding The Leaves… yeah, mail? Or just shit-hit-the-fan mail? such bad hair? Caring deeply about sorry about that. You’re not the only one And isn’t it more weird irrationality this sort of thing (that is, having to to complain about them. Mercifully, that I emailed you about my look at it), I was relieved to read that you wrote instead of grabbing me at a cartoons just before the issue came Bart recently had an appointment bar and screaming at me. I say to you out? It’s a vortex. at Rauðhetta & Úlfurinn. Now, what I said to Mr. Drunky Drunk on Is it merely a joke that you were once at least when I see his picture in Friday at Bar 11: A) There’s room in an avid (pun intended) bird watcher? the Grapevine, I’m spared his agro this world for pop. B) My standards ‘Cause I was, too. I’ve been a bunch grimace and the floppy, on live shows differ greatly from those of things, I think I told you, and Hugh-Grant-circa-1995 hair. Good on recorded material. C) Please stop bird watcher is one of them. I even move Bart. Anyway, my point is, in hitting me. banded for a summer, and kept a January I wasn’t Bart’s #1 fan, and For future letter-writers, please lifer list. I even, I can admit to you, that’s putting it mildly. I actually refrain from discussing the editor’s snuck up on several trees that were stopped reading Iceland Review hairstyle or testicles. squeaking in the wind. I had to all together for fear of cerebral finally promise myself never to do it implosion. Subject: Come thou divine mistake! again. Which reminds me: do you One can imagine my A poet’s guide to pretentious, know how to tell the front of a tree disappointment when I learned that inaccurate drivel. from the back of a tree? Of course Bart would become the editor of the you do. Everyone knows. Who Grapevine -- for that narrowed down Hi, would ever pee in front of a tree? my English reading options even Look, I dislike Árni Johnsen and further. However, I must admit that what he stands for as much as V I have been impressed with both the anyone else. But would it be too writing, and with the subject matter much to ask that the apparently We rarely print fan mail, but as you (and diversity) of the articles in the incredibly enlightened ‘Nyhil’ poets included a joke about bodily fluids, Grapevine during Bart’s tenure (yes, actually stick to the facts when they we’re making an exception. Regarding that’s a compliment). Perhaps it is pick themselves such an incredibly the Issue 9, The Puffinaire Issue, our because after living in Reykjavik for 7 obvious target to put down? cover artist, Tómas Þorbjörn Ómarsson months I have developed a cynicism Árni Johnsen was not released from may have done too good a job: tourists of my own. Or perhaps it is because jail to sing in the Westman Islands were seen ripping the cover off of the the Grapevine actually is a worthy during his stint in prison, although magazine for souvenirs and throwing news source (which is more than an appeal was made. Rather, a the rest into the garbage. We would some can say). Whatever the reason, helicopter carried a bitter letter from like to take a small amount of credit I have learned to appreciate the him to the festival planners, which for what we feel is a side effect of the editor’s position, writing, and point- was lowered onto a stage and read issue: one of our featured cartoonists, blank honesty. Hell, I half-expected to the crowd. It was a pretty surreal Hugleikur Dagsson, has started an to see him picking up a car battery moment and one that I would have English-language alternative comic with his nuts at the Jim Rose Sirkus. thought would have appealed to the magazine called Very Nice Comics, the While other Icelandic publications intellectual powerhouse responsible first issue of which is currently on sale. suffer from gross embellishment for the article in question. and misrepresentation (ever get the I understand the concept of feeling that things (nature aside) poetic license and all that, but this is in Iceland don’t live up to their simply sloppy journalism. If indeed reputation?), the Grapevine keeps it such an obviously hamfisted and real. So, Bart, my hat is off to you. biased tirade about ‘Us’ and ‘them’, Good job, ‘them’ being the great unwashed who seriously, on both the hair, and the have no appreciation for the finer Grapevine. arts such as, say, the ‘Nyhil’ poets, can be called journalism at all. J. Nebolini Ari Eldon and PS... Thank you for correcting this. I spoke with the writer. He explained that the Do you really think The Leaves are historical inaccuracy in his piece was, good?? I mean seriously, does the indeed, poetic license. “Poetic License” World need another Radiohead can now be defined as fundamental tribute band? Those guys are *awful.* historical inaccuracies that give editors ulcers. I don’t know about you, but I’m Thank you, Mr. Nebolini. Iceland drumming my fingers in anticipation Review serves a different purpose of our upcoming articles “Iceland is and a different readership—given the Actually Walt Whitman, a Kosmos, restrictions placed on Mr. Weinman, Floating on Marshmallows in a I feel he does an excellent job. As for California Supermarket” and “How my former career as a daily blogger—I Spain Won D-Day.” simply never understood or valued the

WULFFMORGENTHALER

see more at www.wulffmorgenthaler.com EDITORIALS Government Intervention Works. The Libertarians Proved It. Our journalist, always looking to Oddsson has transformed his home The fact that few in the country make friends, said “A tax evader and into something resembling that remember extended public debate murderer from Norway?” glorious Free State of history. And over gay partnership laws, and that “That’s absolutely right,” the to his credit, there is a good deal nobody has been able to point out WWW.GRAPEVINE.IS teenagers said, and decided we were more wealth in Iceland than there to us any significant public action good friends of Iceland. was fifteen years ago. True, there is that may have spurred on this law, According to economist David a wider gap between the rich and the leads us to follow the conclusion Friedman and Pulitzer Prize- poor, and true, the average personal many locals have about this case: a winning historian and anthropologist debt in the country is enormous, but few powerful politicians decided to Jared Diamond, the original the quality of life still seems to have be forward-thinking, and the nation government in Iceland was the gone up. followed. By passing a law about libertarian ideal of the Free State. As the current government lifestyle, Parliament was able to Bart Cameron, Editor For the first three hundred years, chugs along, spouting alarming shape a tolerant community. there were no taxes, no police, no anti-government rhetoric, we at According to some, Iceland is the army, the few functions typically the Grapevine are sometimes cast Laws like the Gay Union dream model for a conservative handled by the state in other as extreme for asking that the Legislation should be celebrated, government. The former prime countries were initially handled government regulate employers’ but they also remind those of us minister and key member of the privately here, including criminal treatment of immigrants, or that interested in politics how much is Coalition Government, Davíð prosecution. In his essay “Living on government officials who privatize at stake, how much good can be Oddsson, has toured the world the Moon,” Jared Diamond claims banks and end up profiting from the done. Legislation in Iceland led the touting his conservative policies, the Icelandic Free State which lasted privatization at least be monitored— way to a more gay-friendly society, speaking at the neo-con think tank from 930 to 1262 was a disaster and we haven’t printed our request that and legislation could lead the way the American Enterprise Institute showed the failure of such a system. Iceland begin a recycling program in to a more environmentally-friendly about the miracles he performed The problem is, many people here, earnest because the look of shock on society, to a better-educated society, in Iceland by privatizing state-run and many scholars looking at the the faces of Icelanders in the room and to a more integrated society corporations. Oddsson, who has system with a healthy perspective, convinced that we were truly going (the diversity is already here(. This cited Margaret Thatcher as a hero, believe that the Icelandic Free State over the top. country may have been founded by has even lambasted former British succeeded quite well—332 years is The view of so many people a group of landowners who disliked Prime Minister Sir John Major in doing better than the system set up here is “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix legislation and enforcement of laws, England for being so foolish as to in America, for example. it.” And, most of the year, it’s hard and for their time the Icelandic Free pay minimum wage—Iceland doesn’t While the success of the Icelandic to argue. Kids with high school State did some great things, but in have one. Free State is open to debate, we degrees are running multi-million modern times, as demonstrated by Not that Mr. Oddsson’s pro- can at least acknowledge that when dollar businesses, there’s work the actions of Mr. Oddsson in 1996, big business, anti-taxation and Davíð Oddsson started pushing enough for everyone, and the social a more aggressive and conscientious government services stance is Libertarian values in Iceland, he services, while on the decline, are government is necessary to build anything new. During June 17th, was reverting to one of the most still available to most. But then you the kind of society that creative and some local teens put the settlement celebrated times in Icelandic history. get days like August 7th, the day productive citizens want to be a part of Iceland into perspective. Pointing And as his Coalition Government of the Gay Pride Festival, which of. to the statue of Iceland founder has managed to privatize the last should remind locals of the move Ingolfur Arnarsson, they asked us, of the extremely profitable major by the current government to pass assuming we were run-of-the-mill state-run corporations in the country Gay Union Legislation in 1996, foreigners, “Do you know who this this week, Síminn, the Iceland three years before the first Gay Pride is?” telecommunications company, Festival.

Reykjavík’s Uncertain Future since changed radically. trade, with murders occurring on tiny islands might sound like a The more research and an almost daily basis there, at the sexier idea than “good integration interviewing I did for this issue’s highest rate in the US – all because of urban space,” but in the end, I’ll feature, the more I came to the of shoddy planning. always choose a plan that works over frightening realization that city a pretty idea destined to cripple the planning can actually be a matter of Reykjavík is at a crucial juncture, city. life and death. Take my home town poised to become either a divided This is why city planning should of Baltimore, for example. During town – like Baltimore – or a thriving, be of interest to us. The heart of the industrial boom the town saw sustainable city. One of the things planning has nothing to do with during the Second World War, city that I love most about living in how many pine trees are planted on planners built an almost entirely Reykjavík is that you can walk from a traffic median; it rests on nothing residential area in the southwest area your residence to your job, to the less than whether or not the city can for those working in the factories. shops, and to any number of cultural keep us alive. When the war ended, so did the activities. That’s an example of a Reykjavík is a long way from jobs. Instead of reaching out to this successful planning strategy called being like Baltimore and hopefully I didn’t used to consider city community by developing industry “integration”: easy access to all the will never take on my home town’s planning a particularly interesting in the southwest, city planners needs of your daily life. In talking more tragic aspects. As City Council issue. Just uttering the phrase “high- instead began widening the road, to the various players with designs elections are coming up this spring, density urban areas” was enough separating the neighbourhood from on dealing with Reykjavík’s growing this vote might prove to be the most to induce a deep yawn from me, the city centre, changing the road, population, I was pleased to find that important one we cast. Ultimately, invoking images of a roomful of guys eventually, into an expressway. The many people want to continue the it’s a question of casting our ballot in horn-rimmed glasses pouring result was swift: the neighbourhood, city’s integration strategy. On the for Reykjavík’s transformation into a over stacks of incomprehensible cut off from the city’s core of goods, other hand, I was horrified by some successful city or a failed dream. blueprints. To me, city planning services and jobs by an expressway, of the ideas of others, whose plans had all the relevance to my life as found itself plunged into poverty. seemed based more on unrealistic the design of rotary engines for Today, southwest Baltimore’s most nostalgia than creating a sustainable milkshake machines. My attitude has profitable industry is the corner drug city. I mean, building houses on 6 Why the Gay Pride Festival Isn’t for Páll Óskar An interview with one of the Gay Pride organizers

A few months ago, the Reykjavík Grapevine sat down with former Eurovision competitor Páll Óskar to get the down low on this not-so-covertly kitsch phenomenon. This summer, Páll Óskar stopped by the Grapevine office again to explain how the Gay Pride Festival that he has helped organize and figurehead, has gotten so popular in Iceland, and why participating in the festival is only a first step.

Grapevine: The Gay Pride Festival came out of the closet in 1987, when is hardly something one has to the AIDS epidemic was reaching promote anymore. It’s now the its climax in Iceland. I remember biggest celebration in the country. in 1984, the first talk show about AIDS had three panels. There were Páll Óskar: It has come a long way. doctors, gays and religious people. Last year there were 40,000 people. My father said, “All these faggots [Novelist and playwright] Andri should be shipped to a desert island Snær Magnason wrote a piece in and left there to die.” So I realized I Fréttablaðið that we included in had work to do. our brochure this year that sums everything up. It’s not just that Grapevine: It’s hard to believe our Gay Pride has the spirit of a things were ever like that. How were carnival, it’s the spirit of fight. The you able to cope with that? 17th of June used to be like this. Gúndi (Reading from Andri Snær’s article Páll Óskar: I had some and paraphrasing) The Gay Pride encouragement. I’m the youngest Festival here now bears most of the of seven. My mother was extremely symptoms of a national celebration: helpful. When I told her, she said ‘If the sense of duty, the flag, here we Páll has the talent to fall in love, he have people who proudly carry the should nurture that talent. And he flag and people [for whom] the flag has as much a right to sit down at still has meaning. my table with his partner as anybody else does with their partner.’ The Gay Generation knows what they were celebrating—they would Grapevine: That’s the family side. never dream of changing their flag The private side. How does that for an Og Vodafone flag. compare with something like this parade. Grapevine: Ah, yes, for tourists, a couple of years ago Og Vodafone, a Páll Óskar: Telling your parents telephone company, gave out flags is coming out. I do not consider during Independence Day. walking down Laugavegur with a

green wig on your head and shouting Gúndi Páll Óskar: Gay Pride has no sales ‘I’m Gay!’ to be coming out. That’s tents. We’re all about the event, pure easy. and simple. If anything is sold, we do gay businessmen and women? Where Grapevine: Even when being about just living somewhere where it personally, only gay pride flags and The Gay Pride is something we is the openly gay politician? There verbally assaulted at work? there’s a more active gay scene? t-shirts, with the income going to a call Organized Visibility. It’s for isn’t one gay member of parliament fellowship for the next generation. those who are still in the closet, still that I know of. Páll Óskar: Yeah. We’ve come to Páll Óskar: I would never leave leading a double life. Living the life learn that this is caused by ignorance. Reykjavík and move to a bigger city Grapevine: It is a successful event. of a mole, really. While those people Páll Óskar: That’s a good question. Give information. I’m a firm believer because of the gay scene. If someone But I have some concerns. I covered still exist, this parade has to be. Come to think of it, I only know of in information as a tool. It should be had a great job and a great platform a drag competition last year, and one two gay men in parliament. Neither given and even promoted as it is in to show my art maybe, but never for of the contestants had been beaten Grapevine: There is a limit as to are out. We have yet to see the day Gay Pride. the gay scene. up the night before the show. Are what this does, in my opinion. when an openly gay politician is there incidents of violence against elected. But we have quite a few gay- Grapevine: Reading through Grapevine: I think a few people gays in Iceland? Páll Óskar: This whole festival friendly and liberal politicians. literature about the Icelandic gay come out to Iceland, knowing of the has only one message, if you read scene, I came across an argument acceptance of alternative lifestyles, Páll Óskar: I would like to see the between the lines: You are not done. Grapevine: How safe is it for gay that Iceland doesn’t have gay clubs and think there’s going to be a gay rate of physical violence against gays It’s also a way of saying thanks to people in this country? Is it safe, for because it is so incredibly accepting scene and are disappointed when in Iceland. I think it is very low. I the heterosexual people who get the example, for a gay man to take a job that gays interact just like straight there isn’t. have experienced verbal abuse. That picture. Because without them this in a fishing boat? people. takes place Fridays and Saturdays whole gay lib would not have taken Páll Óskar: I think it’s wrong to after midnight. Under the excuse place. Páll Óskar: I know quite a few gay Páll Óskar: That’s a cute argument. promote Iceland as a gay paradise. that you’re allowed to say things men on fishing boats personally, I don’t agree. The Reykjavík gay when you’re drunk. But I have never Grapevine: It’s extremely successful, and, yeah, it’s quite safe. I believe the community is always waiting for that For information on the Gay Pride had the experience of being kicked and all the shops say ‘Yeah, we’re only place you can find prejudice is one man with money to appear from Festival, visit www.gayice.is. out of an apartment or out of a job, gay friendly’ for that weekend. But I in sports. the sky. It’s a social issue. We have to By Bart Cameron as I know happened to previous get the impression that most people socialize somewhere. Right now, the generations. Previous generations return to the closet soon after. There’s a good article [in the Gay only gay club I attend is the MSE, lived in fear. They had no emotional Gay friends from America have Pride brochure] on the lesbian the Leather Club. This is the only freedom. They really had to think told me that they hear the ‘I’m not football team of the 1980s. Many of bar where I can be gay, no questions twice about coming out of the closet. advertising it,’ line about being gay them were forced out of their team, asked. Ever. I like that just as a a lot. Valur. They moved over to Haukur football fan likes going to a sports Grapevine: Is it accurate to say in Hafnarfjörður. club and watching a live broadcast of that you are a member of the first Páll Óskar: That sounds right. I his team with his mates. generation of accepted openly gay don’t agree with them. It’s not a Grapevine: Is it as safe for a straight Icelanders? question of advertising it. Straight woman to work anywhere in Iceland But let’s not forget that bars and people have wedding rings and as it is for a gay man? clubs are only open two days a week. Páll Óskar: I am. I was born in children and kiss and hug in the What are you going to do the rest of 1970. swimming pools. If a gay man Páll Óskar: I don’t know. It’s a good the week? Sadly, the gay community says that he has a problem with question, though. I know that as a is often dependent on the bars. It Grapevine: In fact, some say you’re advertising, then he has a problem gay man you experience verbal abuse seems some men are content with one of the reasons the Icelanders with his sexuality. But the gay society from your fellow workers. We have being creatures crawling in the night. accept openly gay culture. has all colours. We don’t agree on learned not to react with a ‘Oh, the Naturally, that’s not something I’m politics. Some of us love each other, world is so mean to me.’ If someone happy about. How gay are you for Páll Óskar: I’m not the reason, but some of us hate each other. is mean, it’s usually caused by not the rest of the week? yes I am one of the reasons. Me and enough information: ignorance and a handful of other brave people who Grapevine: If Iceland is so gay fear. Never victimize yourself. Grapevine: I know you spend time were just out there. Interestingly, I friendly, where are the prominent on the Continent. Have you thought

Column by Þórdís Elva Þorvaldsdóttir Bachmann THEY KILLED KENNY! – Or was it the Vikings? Offensive humour is on the rise. Things that once were considered taboo are now a laughing stock in and respected writers of medieval matter how insensitive they may television shows such as the hugely Icelandic literature, wasn’t ashamed seem at a glance, do not encourage successful animated series South to poke fun at morbid matters. In violent behaviour. On the contrary, Park and The Simpsons. The his saga Gylfaginning (written in the The Simpsons comments on violent humour is so dark that even death 1220s), a man named Týr is tricked TV material with its “Itchy and becomes a laughing matter. In South into putting his hand in the mouth Scratchy” cartoon, which Bart Park, one of the children, named of a vicious wolf, who bites his hand and Lisa love to watch. “Itchy and Kenny, dies in a horrible accident in off. The tale tells that “everyone Scratchy” is an utterly ironic feature every single episode. In fact, Kenny’s laughed except for Týr. He lost his of The Simpsons, in which a cat and death has become a joke viewers hand.”(Gylfaginning, chapter 34) a mouse find horrible methods to anticipate with amusement every Those who protest South Park torture and kill each other in every week. Older generations not used and similar shows argue that they episode, causing Bart and Lisa to to today’s less-than-holy humour normalize violent behaviour. If that roar with laughter. These sketches are often taken aback by the issues is true, then a good chunk of history cleverly deliver the message that that evoke laughter from young does so too. Malicious humour goes there is an alarming amount of audiences. The above-mentioned way back, beyond the Viking era. violence on TV, even in children’s TV programs are frowned upon for In Roman times, gladiator fights programs. setting a bad example for children, were the emperor’s finest source of Nevertheless, the South Park leading to protests. In Britain, entertainment. Seeing a slave torn generation does not have a lower authorities of the King’s School at to pieces by hungry lions humoured regard for human life than the Ely encouraged parents to ban their the high class for centuries. In Romans or the Vikings did. children from watching South Park, comparison to the actual bloodshed Ultimately, the values instilled in us for example. However, it needs and loss of human lives, South as children are the most instrumental to be pointed out that this type of Park with its crass animation seems in shaping our respect for life and violent satire is far from being a new harmless and innocent. Why such a other human beings. The messages phenomenon. As a matter of fact, fuss now? It is important to bear in in modern cartoons, no matter how it was perfected in our very own mind that the lack of sentimentality cleverly put forward, can never treasured Icelandic sagas. in today’s entertainment is, in fact, replace a good upbringing. Those It seems the authors of the history repeating itself. who hold that opinion are the ones Viking tales were thinking along The normalization of violence we should truly be worrying about. the same lines as the modern South should be considered a serious Park viewer. For example, Snorri matter. However, the above- Sturluson, one of our most famous mentioned television series, no

Column by David Brooks Frímann

to adapt. Yes, fuel is expensive Fuel Crisis in America here - so is everything. So, drive a smaller car. I am not saying that I read an online article this morning kronur per litre. This would still be Icelanders are somehow inherently about a ‘war games’ simulation considered a deal. more environmentally enlightened conducted in America showing how Americans are cry babies. They than Americans. If you ask me, fuel prices could soar as a result need to face the reality that their Icelanders are a lot like Americans: of certain events, such as terrorist energy policies, attitudes and they love their cars and they are attacks in Saudi Arabia and Alaska, behaviours are woefully ignorant and major consumers. It’s just that political instability in Nigeria backwards. Most Americans believe the tax climate and general high and other scenarios. In short, fuel that driving is a birthright and if costs of life in this country are supplies would be choked, the cost they want a 500 horsepower, 10- very prohibitive. And, Icelanders of oil would soar to $120 per barrel, cylinder, Viper-powered sport truck remember more vividly what it is like gas would rise to $5.30 per gallon that gets six miles per gallon then, to go without. and the U.S. would slide into an so be it. Wait till these people have The current consensus is that fuel economic recession. to spend $250-300 to fill their 40- prices will not stay at this level and Let’s put this in perspective, gallon (152-litre) tank. The average will most likely drop again. Many current fuel prices in Iceland are European is already dealing with experts claim that this is an issue approximately 110 kronur per litre. what the average American would of refinery capacity, not a lack of At today’s rate of exchange of 65 called “crisis level” gas prices. They oil. Nevertheless, it seems obvious kronur per dollar, the cost of a gallon do it by purchasing automobiles with that this is a sneak preview of what’s of gasoline in Iceland is $6.43. Talk small displacement gasoline and to come for the world in general about “crisis level” prices! The diesel engines. Most of the trucks and the United States specifically. current U.S. national average for (SUVs) here are diesels, very few I don’t know about you, but this gasoline is $2.21 per gallon, that are in America. In fact, in many sneak preview frightens me. I don’t would be 37.8 kronur per litre. If cases, in America diesels aren’t even see much movement in Americans’ we saw this price at our local gas offered. willingness to embrace change in station, we would be shocked by the I am always converting prices the energy arena. We can only amazing deal being offered. We in Iceland to U.S. dollars. This hope that they wake up to this would immediately fill our gas tank is something I should stop looming global reality and that the to the top and then alert all of our doing because I can’t help but next U.S. president will be a strong friends. The “crisis level” price of be consistently amazed at how leader, willing to promulgate a more $5.30/gallon as stated in this article, expensive things are here. But sensible and logical energy policy. correlates to approximately 91 living in Iceland has taught me

10

Three protestors from the campsite near the Kárahnjúkar work area were arrested around midnight on the night Kárahnjúkar of 26 July. After chaining themselves to a few vehicles, they later unchained themselves voluntarily at the request of the police, but were then arrested. According to NEWS IN BRIEF Protests: Morgunblaðið, a few protestors also went to the worksite and damaged property by spray-painting signs and equipment. Later that night, two men on bikes went to The Drama the protest site and spray painted their tents and their Little Change in Party Support welcome sign. All parties involved were assumed to be According to the latest Gallup poll results, support for the different parties adults. has changed little since the last poll a month ago. 38% of respondents said Continues The next day, in a statement received by the that they support the Independence Party, while the Alliance Party received Grapevine from one of the spokespeople for the group of 32%. The Leftist-Green Party went up a point to 16%. The Progressive Party protestors near the Kárahnjúkar work site, the protestors hangs onto 9%, while the Liberal Party remains steady with 5%. Oddly, while accused the police of sexually assaulting a female 50% said they are happy with the ruling coalition, support for both parties protestor. in the coalition - the Independence Party and the Progressive Party - is at a The statement said in part, “The protest was peaceful combined total of 47%. and the relations with the workers were friendly until the police arrived at about 3 AM. The police ordered the drivers of the vehicles that [protestors] were locked on to, Australian Environmental Minister to start their engines. The police sexually assaulted one woman while another protestor was assaulted by security Condemns Icelandic Whaling personal while being held by police. Three people are Ian Campbell, the Australian Minister for the Environment, has harshly being held on fabricated assault charges.” criticized Iceland’s scientific whaling policy, saying that the scientific The police have contended that the protestors resisted reasons are “dubious” and the process inhumane. As Whale and Dolphin arrest. One policeman, who did not want to be identified, Conservation Society campaigner Philippa Brakes also pointed out, “The told the Grapevine that he had heard about the charge difference between whaling and killing livestock on land is that with whaling, of sexual assault. Helgi Jensson, assistant chief of police you are taking it on knowing that a percentage of animals are not going to be in Egilsstaðir, told the Grapevine that the sexual assault killed cleanly. By definition, this can never be a humane kill.” charge was “rubbish,” adding, “These protestors were Minister of Fisheries Árni Mathiesen dismissed the comments outright, fighting the police with all their force.” The protestors’ saying the Australian minister doesn’t understand the facts of the case. permit to be in the tent camp has since been revoked following the alleged incident and were told to move by Highlands Animals in Flux noon the following day. The wildlife in the Highlands is going through changes, some not for the According to Morgunblaðið, the new camp is at the better. According to RÚV, reindeer have started changing their migratory farm Vaði in Skriðdal, just south of Egilsstaðir. This is path, moving closer to Fljótsdalsheiði and away from Vesturöræfi where they the same farm owned by Guðmundur Ármannsson, the used to be - an area close to the Kárahnjúkar work site. Pink-footed geese farmer who refused to sell his land to Landsvirkjun to have also dropped dramatically in number, from 13,000 in 1991 to 4,000 make way for roads to power lines, a story the Reykjavík today. Grapevine reported on last year. According to Vísir, the protestors face charges of destruction of property and in one instance assault, MPs Rated in “Hot or Not” from Impregilo. Sigurður Arnalds, spokesperson for Every member of the Icelandic parliament has had their photos posted on Kárahnjúkar, said that Landsvirkjun is considering the popular website Hotornot.com, wherein people post their photos to be judged for their general attractiveness. According to the results at the time of this writing, the “hottest” member of parliament is Progressive Party MP Siv Friðleifsdóttir, who is averaging 9.5 on a scale of 1 to 10. The Independence Party is currently the hottest party, taking four of the ten top seats. Prime Minister Halldór Ásgrímsson is rated 11th, averaging as an 8.4, while Foreign Minister Davíð Oddsson is rated 27th, averaging as a 7.7. The website includes an image of a mid-twenties male with dreadlocks dubbed “Heldriver.” The Grapevine has no doubt that “Heldriver” is not a member of the Icelandic parliament.

Magnússon New Radio Director Páll Magnússon, formerly the news director for television channel Stöð 2, has been chosen by Minister of Education Þórgerður Katrín Gunnarsdóttir to be the new radio director of state-run Ríkisútvarpið. Speaking to Morgunblaðið, Magnússon said in part, “I am grateful for being shown the trust to direct this respectable and important institution, and I look forward to taking charge of this project.” Magnússon will start his new position on 1 September.

Phone Company Sold The formerly nationalized phone company Síminn has been sold at last for 67 billion ISK (a little over 1 billion USD) to a multitude of investors. By government accounts, the proceeds will be able to pay off 28% of the national debt. Many have proposed using the money to build a new hospital or to develop Sundabraut.

Surtsey Considered a Potential Tourist Destination The island of Surtsey, which was born from a volcanic eruption in 1973, is being considered a possible tourist destination after being closed to all but geological experts since its creation. Progressive MP Hjálmar Árnason told Vísir that he believes Surtsey could be opened to the public, but only “under the strict supervision of experts.”

The Icelandic Nation Optimistic According to the latest Gallup poll, Icelanders are very optimistic and positive about life in general at the moment. The nation is, in fact, more positive than ever before since the poll was started in 2001. The views of the Icelandic people are 11% more optimistic than last month, and 15% higher than last year at the same time, having grown by 13% during the past 12 months.

31 Refugees Coming to Reykjavík 31 refugees, 24 from Colombia and 7 from Kosovo, will be arriving in Reykjavík shortly. According to Vísir, the Red Cross has been making preparations for the new arrivals, with the hope that everything will be ready before primary school begins on 22 August. This is the first time in nearly 25 years that refugees have come directly to Reykjavík.

By Paul F Nikolov

12 Paul F Nikolov gives us Grapevine’s Government Guide Who They Are: And Where Do They Stand On...

The Leftist-Green Party How the sale of the state-owned national (Vinstrihreyfingin-Grænt Framboð) Guiding principles: Far-left, pro-environmental, anti-NATO, feminist. telecommunications company Síminn to Party Chairman: Steingrímur J. Sigfússon Number of seats: 5 private investors was handled? Registered members: about 1,400 Ministers: none Leftist-Green Party: Against Progressive Party: Supporting Independence Party: Strange but true: Chairman Steingrímur J. Sigfússon and MP Kólbrún The party has been against the “It’s clear that after this sale we Supporting Halldórsdóttir were born just days apart from each other. There might be privatization of the utility from the can do things that we otherwise “I’m very happy about everything.” something to this astrology thing after all. beginning, as it continues to be now. couldn’t have done in the areas MP Drífa Hjartardóttir. Website: www.vg.is Alliance Party: of communications, health, the E-mail: [email protected] Supporting, with reservation development of jobs and other Phone: 552-8872 “We’re happy about the price, important aspects of society,” PM Address: Pósthólf 175, 121 Reykjavík but a little worried about the Halldór Ásgrímsson, speaking to foreign investors who weren’t Vísir. among the buyers, as well as Liberal Party: some of the connections between Supporting, with reservations The Alliance Party (Samfylkingin) the new owners.” MP Guðrún “It’s seemed well handled, although Ögmundsdóttir. Guiding principles: Left-centrist, social-democratic. it’s a shame they’ve just learned Party Chairman: Ingibjörg Sólrún Gísladóttir now how to handle the sale of such Number of seats: 20 properties. We were also worried Registered members: about 20,000 about what effects privatizing the Ministers: none phone company might have on the Strange but true: Have invited the public to a barbeque in Þórsmörk. For infrastructure. But they seem to have more information, go to http://www.samfylkingin.is/?i=4&o=2588. made a fair sum from the sale, so Website: www.samfylking.is we’re happy about it.” Liberal Party E-mail: [email protected] manager Margrét Sverrisdóttir. Phone: 414-2200 Address: Hallveigarstígur 1 (2nd Floor),Floor), BoBoxx 160, 101 ReReykjavíkykjavík

The Progressive Party (Framsóknarflokkurinn) Guiding principles: Right-centrist;Right-centrist; beliebelievesves in ffewerewer ecoeconomicnomic and environmental regulations while strengthening the social system. Party Chairman: Halldór Ásgrímsson Number of seats: 12 Registered members: about 10,000 Ministers: Prime Minister Halldór Ásgrímsson, Minister of Social Affairs Árni Magnússon, Minister of Agriculture Guðni Ágústsson, Minister of Health Jón Kristjánsson, Minister of Industry Valgerður Sverrisdóttir Strange but true: Valgerður Sverrisdóttir recently wrote a lengthy response to an opinion piece in Fréttablaðið by Björgvin Guðmundsson, wherein she said the piece of journalism was designed to “bring the Prime Minister down” and help put Alliance Party chairman Ingibjörg Sólrún Gísladóttir in the PM’s chair. Website: www.framsokn.is E-mail: [email protected] Phone: 540-4300 Address: Hverfisgata 33 (2nd Floor), 101 Reykjavík

The Liberal Party (Frjálslyndir) Guiding principles: Right wing, pretty much the same as the Independence Party, with more emphasis on the rights of fishermen. Party Chairman: Guðjón Kristjánsson Number of seats: 3 Registered members: about 2,000 Ministers: none Strange but true: Party manager Margrét Sverrisdóttir, in an opinion piece that appeared in Morgunblaðið, denounced the lack of punishment for those involved with the bank scandal, as opposed to a man who was recently sentenced to 45 days in prison for stealing a leg of lamb. Website: www.frjalslyndir.is E-mail: [email protected] Phone: 552-2600 Address: Aðalstræti 9, 101 Reykjavík

The Independence Party (Sjálfstæðisflokkurinn) Guiding principles: Right wing, believes in further privatization in all areas of society. Party Chairman: Davíð Oddsson Number of seats: 23 Registered members: about 34,000 Ministers: Minister of Fisheries Árni M. Mathiesen, Minister of Justice Björn Bjarnason, Minister of Foreign Affairs Davíð Oddsson, Minister of the Economy Geir H. Haarde, President of Parliament Solveig Pétursdóttir, Minister of the Environment Sigríður A. Þórðardóttir, Minister of Communications Sturla Böðvarsson, Minister of Education Þórgerður Katrín Gunnarsdóttir Strange but true: The Association of Young Independence Party Members (SUS) celebrated their 75th anniversary last June. Website: www.xd.is E-mail: [email protected] Phone: 515-1700 Address: Háaleitisbraut 1, 105 Reykjavík H.S.

The new bus lines. What could be simpler?

“Does this bus go to Bessastaðir?” Cheap Way to Work or a Big Damn Hassle? “Ha, ha, Óli. That’s a good one!” Gúndi

The sun is already high in the sky pollution so much,” he says. And speak Icelandic. Of the passengers, as I board the number S2 bus at although Strætó participates in a only Leifur owns his own car and Hlemmur, just after 8am. The S2 European scheme that operates a still chooses to take the bus. is one of the new “Express” bus small number of hydrogen buses, it’s routes (making it all the more ironic not exactly great for the environment For a relatively small city, Strætó that the S1, or S-Einn in Icelandic, to run huge buses with only two or operates an extensive and regular means “late”). It begins at the three occupants. In fact, according bus system that is clean, friendly, Hlemmur bus terminal, in the east to Glúmur Jón Björnsson of the and cheap (for the user, but not for of downtown, and makes its way libertarian association Andríki, fuel the taxpayer). Einar says that taking along major roads to Hótel Nordica consumption per passenger mile on the bus can be more relaxing than and then Skeifan, loops back along the bus is much higher than for the driving, and that it is generally safer Miklabraut to Kringlan Shopping average automobile, since the buses in traffic to be on a bus. The tourists Centre, before beginning a dash in Reykjavík are running at a very I spoke with were also impressed out to the suburbs of Kópavogur, low capacity. So apparently the only with the helpfulness of the drivers ending – or beginning – its journey way to convince Icelanders to travel and the ease of transport. in the new suburban development by public transport is to tell them of Vatnsendahvarf, which overlooks they can buy more cool stuff with the the beautiful Elliðavatn Lake and money they save from doing so. Heiðmörk Park. Back on the S2, I am expecting The S2 is a good example of the a throng of people to get on during new routes that have been created in the first stretch heading from the Strætó bus system. Strætó was downtown to Skeifan. After all, founded in 2001 as a combination it’s rush-hour and this area has a of the transport systems of the seven number of businesses. But the total municipalities that make up the number of passengers for the first greater Reykjavík area. At that time, leg of route is five, including myself. the new city-wide bus routes were Overall, the riders appear to be more of an amalgamation of the comprised of the perceived audience existing lines, and not very efficient for public transport in Reykjavík: for commuters, according to Strætó elderly people, the young, tourists officials. The new system is therefore and foreign residents. Strætó has a the result of planning that began long way to go to reach its target of four years ago. 8% market penetration in the next The official line from Strætó 20 years (it is currently 4%) when a is that the new system has been huge segment of the population is created after extensive consultations missing from its regular users. It’s an uphill battle to build a and with the needs of the public Einar Örn Hreinsson, the bus strong customer base, though. The transport user in mind. The main driver, tells me that this is a normal old Catch-22 arises: people don’t use objective is to increase usage of number of passengers for this time the system because buses don’t run public transport. In a city with car of day (the busy time!) He has driven often or quickly enough to where ownership of roughly 600 per 1000 entire routes with just himself and they want to go, and this is because inhabitants (the European average is Talstöð radio for company. On this not enough people use it. In the new 300-400), and a very large inhabited day and time, passengers are mostly Kópavogur neighbourhood where area, this is a great challenge. “We going to work. Everyone I speak the S2 travels, the houses haven’t are competing with the second or to (and that was virtually all of the even been built yet, but the buses are third car in each home,” says Pétur nine passengers who travelled on the already there in the hope that, once Fenger, Assistant Manager at route during the time I was there) the very large detached homes have Strætó. “We say take the bus, and is a regular Strætó user. About half been completed, their occupants will use the money for the third car to go of them like the new bus system, want to economize by taking the 30- abroad once a year.” while half feel it has increased their minute bus ride into town instead of It’s the economic argument commuting time. Mohammed, driving their own gas-guzzling jeeps. that Fenger believes will convince originally from Tunisia, says it was As I climb off the S2 back at Icelanders to leave their SUVs at difficult to understand information Hlemmur, I can’t help but feel home. “Icelanders don’t notice air on the system for those who don’t a bit sad that Strætó’s noble and well-intentioned targets are perhaps slightly too quixotic for Reykjavíkers still basking in the glory of having the highest disposable incomes in Icelandic history. Will all this change in two generations when the effects of pollution are more noticeable? Will it happen when gasoline prices increase to such an extent that people can’t afford that third car? Or when huge new infrastructure projects designed to accommodate more and more vehicles destroy valuable green space and natural habitats? Actually, maybe it’s me who is the idealist.

STRÆTÓ FOR TOURISTS You’ll likely have the chance to test out the golden chariots once or twice on your visit. The new bus lines. What could be simpler?

Here’s the Grapevine’s Top 5 Places You Can Go By Public Transport:

Mount Esja: Take the 15 as far as you can, then hop on the 27 for a trip to the bottom of the big mountain you can see across the fjord “Does this bus go to Bessastaðir?” from town. It’s about a three-hour “Ha, ha, Óli. That’s a good one!” Gúndi hike up and down the mountain. Sundahöfn Harbour: The new Route 12 or 16 will take you to Sundahöfn Harbour, from where you can take a short ferry ride to Viðey Island for camping, cycling or visiting the historic sites. All the Museums: All the galleries and museums in the greater Reykjavík area are accessible by bus. Get yourself a day pass and go crazy! Nauthólsvík: Reykjavík’s answer to Bondi Beach is a short walk from the last stop of number 16. Reynistaðavatn: You can go fishing in Reynistaðavatn if you take Bus 25.

For more information, visit www.bus.is

By Eliza Reid Mourning The Old Giant Earth has not anything to show more fair: Hackney, which was one of the poorest places to live in Dull would he be of soul who could pass by Western Europe. London was like a fantasy place for me, everything amazing. At school, the children who A sight so touching in its majesty: attended had stories that were as if conjured from the This City now doth, like a garment, wear tongues of great storytellers. One friend, a Vietnamese The beauty of the morning; silent, bare, refugee, had fled his country during the later stages of the infamous war, on a boat with his family. During transit Ships, towers, domes, theatres, and temples lie they were spotted and shot at by the Khmer Rouge, apart Open unto the fields, and to the sky; from my friend and his two brothers, the whole family died, leaving the brothers to drift along in the boat for (William Wordsworth, Composed Upon Westminster Bridge, three days, feigning death, lying amongst the bodies of September 3, 1802) his dead relatives until they found safety. Later on it was London that gave them a home, security and a future. On the morning of the bombings I had been sleeping Stories of this magnitude and staggering humanity when the telephone rang out three times and stopped. are commonplace in this city, which plays host to 300 This short unanswered punch into my sleep dragged me different languages and ethnicities. from the safety of my slumber and delivered me into the arms of the chaos that was unfolding on my television. Now finding myself thousands of miles away in The scenes of injured, bloody people lying debilitated on Iceland with incidents still escalating in London, I stop the pavement in London. The terrorists had drawn their and look at my new hosts directly in the eyes. I have new front line right through the gardens, homes, schools, found that Icelanders tend to generally have a knack of streets and straight through the hearts of every man, staring at you so intensely you can feel the holes burning woman and child of this city. through the back of your head as they are working out For the many years of my childhood and recent life which country you are from, but normally as soon as I grew up with London having the image that it was a I open my mouth and the slur of my English accent magically big, creaking and harmless old giant, a city sprouts forth, I am always greeted with the greatest of with vibrancy, each smell dynamic, every language new, warm smiles and a huge handshake. More recently since all faces different and unique but not this terrifying the tragic events, people have been much warmer towards monster that I was seeing now. me, giving their condolences and support. A friend of mine pointed out to me that London is in some ways People in London had subconsciously been closer to the heart of Icelanders now than to any other anticipating terrorist attacks since 9/11 and with the foreign place, even above Copenhagen, with many big ever increasing activities in Iraq, tension about security Icelandic businesses, students and travellers regularly had heightened but that didn’t stop London going about being based in London, it is a special place to a lot of my its business, staying positive about every day life, this new friends. incessant spirit is what connects people to this giant city. Looking through the local papers the biggest thing The day after the bombings it was of no surprise to me hitting the headlines at the moment are subjects akin to that London picked itself up and carried on defiantly. “…Guðmundur catches 13lb salmon”, this in contrast to London didn’t have the shocking impact that the “…suspected suicide bomber taken out on tube by police”, in pictures from 9/11 had, or the political upheavals that the London, seems rather dull but reassuringly so. Madrid bombings triggered, but as the identities of the bombers came to light, the unbelievable fact that not only By Stephen Taylor-Matthews were the attackers suicide bombers (a first in Western Europe) but that they were young disenchanted men who were a product of British society. As a kid I had lived in the cosmopolitan borough of

18

Grapevine: This is the cleanest The Professionals: A Very Expensive studio I’ve ever seen. And that’s an Krummi: They wanted something accountant’s lamp you’re writing fresh. What you have to understand Hour with Barði and Krummi under. I was expecting more rock is, only musically is there a difference and roll—but why are you dressed between us. If you know the public images of Barði Johannesson and Krummi, the words stone sober music up? geeks probably don’t come to mind. The Grapevine visited with the front men two Bang Gang Barði: We play in the same league, Krummi: (Shrugging.) This? This is but different teams. We’re both the and Mínus at a studio in Hafnarfjörður as they completed work on their first, and according casual wear: just black t-shirt, black national team. to them last, collaboration: a soundtrack for the Róbert Douglas movie Strákarnir Okkar, pants. T-shirt, trousers and shoes. (English title Eleven Men Out). What we found was an extremely clean suite of rooms, and No underwear though. Grapevine: You’re saying you both have an understanding of writing two quiet musicians that you’d never expect to get on stage. Grapevine: Oh. Well, now I know. music that is similar? And what are you writing? (Silence.) Krummi: The chorus for the song I’m going to record as soon as you Barði: Something we have in leave. common is that neither of us care about selling records in Iceland. Grapevine: I think a lot of readers familiar with Mínus are curious (Krummi pours a dark brown, non- about what will come out on this bubbly substance from a Coke bottle record. Having seen some recent into a glass and drinks.) shows, you seem to be presenting more raw material, and yet here you Grapevine: Okay. Krummi, are recording with the most refined are there drugs in that glass or stylist in the country, Barði. something? Liquor? That looks like a big glass of flat Coke. But, is there Krummi: Yeah, well we just played something more rock and roll in it? our whole set list for our fans. And they shouldn’t be surprised about Krummi: No, it’s just flat Coke. It’s me playing with Barði—we’ve been better for the voice. friends for a while. We always wanted to work. Barði: Because he’s singing in G- flat. Barði: And this film is a good reason to get together. Grapevine: Dear God. But I should point out, you’re here doing this Grapevine: The film is a fictional soundtrack when both of you could account of a national gay soccer be out making a lot more money team. Are you saying you got touring or recording your own together because you believed in music. Barði, you’ve just toured promoting the social significance? successfully in France, and your Lady Or did you see the rough of the film and Bird work is attracting a lot of and like it? international attention. Krummi, you’ve obviously been doing well Krummi: We knew there was touring on the last album, Halldór humour. We liked that. But we Laxness. didn’t think too much about it, because it would put us in a corner. Krummi: True. But we’re doing this because it’s something fresh. Grapevine: And why combine Bang Gang and Mínus? Barði: We both agree on that.

Barði: They wanted something Krummi: And we like the romance between our two bands, so we got a of the film. And it’s fun working studio and made it work. together. It’s always fun getting away from your band style and trying Grapevine: But the gap between something new. And if you think of Bang Gang, an ultra-smooth soundtracks, some bands really come melodic, relaxed European club up with something strong. Like the band, and Mínus, a tooth-and-nails AC/DC soundtrack for Maximum hard rock band, seems enormous. Overdrive. Doesn’t that leave just about every type of music that includes vocals in Grapevine: True, that is a great the middle? album for a movie I don’t really

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Open 12 - 22 Laugavegur 11

Krummi demonstrates his phrenological expertise.

know. Is there a chance that this crotch a lot. happens when people want to hear session will permanently change your more? sound or style? Suddenly Bang Gang Krummi: That’s where it all will involve screaming? happens, Bart. The life cycle all Barði: If they want to hear more, comes from right here. (Pointing at they’re unlucky. Barði: (laughing) Probably not at all. his crotch.) Krummi: We just wanted to write Krummi: (laughing) Why would it? Grapevine: True. So this session has good songs. We’ve accomplished I seriously doubt that Mínus is going been easy. that. to bring in a string quartet. Krummi: We didn’t know how Barði: Maybe a banjo player. things would work out, but when we With that, our time is up. All in all, got together we were really happy including off the record comments Krummi: Maybe when we’re really about it. If you don’t enjoy working about the local music scene, a brief old and sick of doing records we’ll in the studio, you should go handle a studio tour and getting to hear a bring in a string section and have cash register at Hagkaup. few tracks from the new record, I Barði arrange it. have had an hour with two of the Barði: The tour bus, that’s different. most successful young musicians in Grapevine: Okay, this is almost Iceland. Barði Johannesson has been disturbing. You’re both happy and Krummi: Yeah, then people really taking note of this, apparently. easygoing. Isn’t this the end of the get on each other’s nerves. But then recording week? How many hours you have shows to get everything “We’ll send you a bill for one hour have you spent together? Shouldn’t out. of studio time,” he tells me on my you be fighting or at least moody? way out. Grapevine: I’ve heard only two By Bart Cameron Barði: Well, I do now have a lot of tracks off of what you’ve recorded tattoos. I’m covered in them. so far. One was extremely heavy, and you said it was atypical. The Krummi: Hanging out with me 15 other had a very Kiss Dynasty disco hours a day, he’s now into Black feel, with a vocal range that I didn’t Metal. But this is how we get by, expect from Krummi. emotionally and physically. Of course we get annoyed and jaded but Krummi: There is some Kiss it only comes out in the music not influence. Maybe it could even be on each other. We just get up and let a Kiss song from when they were it all out. Let the dick hang out. doing 4/4-time.

Grapevine: Yes. You refer to your Grapevine: Given the success, what

TURNING THE CITY 23

Reykjavík is teetering between turning into the suburbs and becoming a city. On the one hand, a leading conservative on City Council is proposing the construction of island communities of predominantly single-family homes in the west, and the building of a freeway through the middle of the city to connect them to the mainland – an idea charming to some but ultimately unsustainable. On the other hand, opposition alliance R-list (which holds a slim majority of seats on City Council), is taking a more integrated, mixed-use approach for residents and businesses alike – an idea that while not exactly headline-grabbing would transform Reykjavík from a town to a thriving, sustainable city. In essence, the fight over Reykjavík’s future is a fight between nostalgia “For most of us, design is invisible. for a past that never existed, and common Until it fails.” - Massive Change, Bruce Mau and the Institute sense regarding what Reykjavík could be. Without Boundaries INTO THE SUBURBS THE FUTURE OF REYKJAVÍK TEXT BY PAUL F. NIKOLOV 24

Reykjavík is a car city, for in Reykjavík for climate reasons, Vilhjálmur Þ. Vilhjálmsson, leader of remain shut off from downtown. when questioned about making better or worse. According to Roerbech is on the same page as Independence Party representation Solomon found the proposal celebrated public land private. “But Statistics Iceland, as of 2003 there the Planning Council in one regard: on City Council, takes that argument slightly difficult to believe, stating visitors to Viðey have been on the are 69,727 private cars in the city emphasizing mass transit. further. He would in fact like that, “I think an expressway would decline.” alone - one car for every 1.6 people. The Planning Council wants to Reykjavík to be even more of a car make the city more like the suburbs. The islands would be built As Dagur B. Eggertsson, chairman put greater emphasis on buses and city than it already is. I wouldn’t push the city in that up with mostly single-family of the Reykjavík Planning Council, walking. “Icelanders have decided direction, in terms of dealing with homes. While this seems like a pointed out to the Grapevine, “The fact is,” said Bragadóttir, themselves to use personal vehicles,” traffic density.” straightforward, albeit temporary, “Homes with two or even three cars “we have to better utilize land for he told the Grapevine, “and this is solution to the problem of are all the more common. There are development and link homes to something that we have to accept. Yet making the city more Reykjavík’s population boom, the now actually more cars than there work sensibly, where we can bring The weather here is always changing like the suburbs is precisely what underlying reason for Vilhjálmsson’s are driver’s licences.” Former city transportation down to a human from rain, to cold, to wind and snow, Vilhjálmsson and the Independence method of expanding Reykjavík engineer of Copenhagen Dr. Jens scale, such as walking on foot.” all very quickly. People just don’t Party have in mind for Reykjavík. doesn’t seem to be to find room for Roerbech addressed the problem Eggertsson agrees, adding that want to walk 500 to 700 metres to a in the latest issue of aVs magazine, he would like to see the city adopt bus stop and wait 10 or 15 minutes where, in discussing Reykjavík he a “think train and drive bus” policy, in bad weather for a bus to come. said in part, “I cannot remember wherein the city would be able to This is our Icelandic reality. We having been in a city where 96% of “guarantee to city residents in high don’t see people driving fewer cars.” all trips take place by the private car.” population areas a constant stream To further accommodate cars One of the big reasons why of transport with a train-like bus in Reykjavík, Vilhjálmsson and the Reykjavík is such a car city has system, that is, one with speed and Independence Party have proposed a lot to do with the building of efficiency.” removing a number of traffic lights the Kringlan mall in 1987, when Others, such as Einar Örn from the Miklabraut-Hringbraut Davíð Oddsson was mayor and Stefánsson, managing director of the roads, which currently run down the the conservatives controlled City Downtown Development Society, middle of the Reykjavík peninsula, Council, which shifted the residents’ have proposed a new bus line for the effectively creating an expressway focus away from shops downtown city centre. through the middle of the city. Such that they could walk to, to a mall In an article he wrote in the an expressway would cut off the that they could drive to. As Chief July 2005 issue of the downtown Vatnsmýri area – which has been Planning Official of the Reykjavík magazine Miðborgin, Stefánsson slated by most involved for multi- Planning Office Helga Bragadóttir put forward the idea of a bus route family units – from the downtown explained to the Grapevine, the city downtown that would run on a area. had begun building multi-family continuous loop, travelling down Looking for some perspective, units in Skuggahverfi in 1985, with Laugavegur from Hlemmur to the Grapevine consulted Kevin the hope that one result would be Lækjartorg, and then travelling back Firchow, of the urban planning Island communities: more people using mass transit up to Hlemmur on Hverfisgata consulting firm Schreiber Anderson better than building a moat. (which in Iceland’s case means the - an idea that he believes would Associates in Madison, Wisconsin. bus) or travelling on foot, but then, greatly reduce downtown traffic, Madison has repeatedly earned the One of the more radical planning the city’s new residents, but rather, “Kringlan opened in August 1987, adding, “There is no walking street best small city in the US award, all ideas being suggested by to hang on to the better-off of the which of course had an impact in Reykjavík, which is strange, as I while coping with population booms Vilhjálmsson and the Independence current ones. on the city centre. Here you had think every major city in the world and geographic limitations - the Party concerns the islands As Vilhjálmsson explained to bigger shops contained indoors, free has a walking street. I think the Northern city faces much harsher surrounding Reykjavík: Geldinganes, Grapevine, “In Reykjavík last year, parking, big lots - the concept was best solutions to reducing traffic weather overall, including much Akurey, Engey, and to some extent there were 343 new residents. that among other means, you come downtown would be to encourage colder winters, than Reykjavík, even Viðey have been slated as Compare that to 900 new residents by car. The private car has had a big further use of parking garages, and is located entirely on a narrow possible sites for predominantly in Kópavogur and 1000 new impact on the cityscape and how have a walking street, and to have isthmus. Firchow pointed out that single-family homes. This would residents in Hafnarfjörður. In the people move to and from work.” bus service form a loop” between an expressway running through the create the ultimate “gated suburbs, you have more choice of A car city has more to worry Hlemmur and Lækjartorg. middle of a city like Reykjavík would communities,” using water instead of sites for families and mostly families about than just traffic jams: apart Already changes to the mass actually run counter to the goal of high walls, and would be accessible in single-family homes, while in only by a two-lane or four-lane road. Reykjavík there are mostly multiple- Bridges would connect Geldinganes, family homes. Most people want Engey and Viðey to the mainland, to live in single-family homes, but the gap of water between and that’s why there’s been this Öfirisey and Akurey would be filled flight into the suburbs. There are in with earth. While many have now people moving as far afield as expressed concerns about the idea of Hveragerði and Selfoss. We want to landfilling as a means of expanding keep families in Reykjavík.” the city geographically, it’s not If the majority of the 39,000 exactly a new technique to the city. possible new residents expected over As Vilhjálmsson told the Grapevine, the next 30 years live in single-family “Landfilling has been ongoing in homes, this will mean thousands Reykjavík for the past decades. In of new cars in Reykjavík, a city the past 15 to 20 years, some 240 that by that time would only have hectares have been added, 125 of expanded geographically by a few which are around Örfirisey.” hundred hectares. The wear-and- The idea of developing these tear of roads, air pollution and traffic islands isn’t without controversy. injuries and fatalities associated Viðey in particular has attracted with private car usage in Reykjavík the affections of many people in would increase dramatically. Not to the city as a historical setting worth mention the fact that low density preserving. areas like single-family home “I can certainly understand this neighbourhoods require more sewer point of view,” said Vilhjálmsson, lines, more power lines, and greater Last chance to form a sovereign state in from concerns regarding air pollution transit system have begun, with 10% reducing traffic. the island of Viðey and fuel consumption, there’s also of bus stops removed from some of “Anytime you run freeways the problem of “traffic islands” the city’s denser areas in the hopes through the middle of a city,” he told - neighbourhoods boxed in by of increasing travel time in those the Grapevine, “you’re effectively heavy car traffic - especially true areas. Ilene Solomon, a designer for forcing them to use car travel by in Reykjavík, where nearly 50% of the Institute Without Boundaries - cutting them off from other parts the available land is used for roads, who recently returned from a trip to of the city. This increases car use, parking spaces, and other traffic- Iceland - agreed with the changes to which creates more congestion. related structures. the bus system, telling the Grapevine Eventually, you have to widen the “The city’s neighbourhoods have that, “I understand the logic behind freeway further, and the land for been split up,” says Eggertsson, “into it, in that it does increase efficiency. that expansion displaces buildings neighbourhoods where parents are Fewer stops also mean the buses use and cuts people off further. A better afraid to let their children outside to less fuel, expending less exhaust.” approach is to integrate uses and play. It’s a quality of life issue.” provide more options for travel.” To deal with this problem, Dr. Not everyone is thrilled with In other words, splitting Roerbech proposed in the same the idea of the changes to the bus Reykjavík in two with an expressway issue of aVs that Reykjavík increase system - there have been some public could turn the Vatnsmýri area into parking restrictions and provide grumblings, including television a slum – a dense residential area cut better facilities for bicycle traffic, personality Gísli Marteinn criticizing off from basic goods and services. stating that the city, “should build the changes on the news-discussion Even if the people who would live bicycle paths and special bicycle television show Kastljósið on in Vatnsmýri bought cars to access roads.” While there are those who’ve the grounds that the new system the expressway, this would only snarl been reluctant to bicycle traffic will “take a long time to learn.” traffic more; the community would 25

lengths of piping for water and that necessarily means building other demographics, and to build is a much more appropriate use of complaints that the plan was pushed heating than high-density multi- upwards. fewer car parks. Right now the area space.” through and approved quickly, with family areas. They are, in other “I don’t think building up is the is too much like a slum. What we little chance for discussion among words, less efficient and more costly only answer,” she told the Grapevine. want is a dynamic mix of youth, These housing ideas and planners or the public. The plan’s to maintain. “We can build denser by building culture and city functions.” others are still up for debate, lack of popularity - yet its ultimate At the same time, the Planning lower, maybe five to seven stories and will undoubtedly be debated passage - can be taken as a warning Council doesn’t exactly warmly high. An important thing to be The largely industrial area fiercely in the planning meetings to of things to come: Vilhjálmsson’s embrace the idea of developing the aware of is urban spaces on a human of Elliðaárvogur is trickier, as the come. More often than not, these expressway and island communities islands and having an inordinate scale and an easy access to daily question arises, how do you convince discussions become politicized. One might not be very popular ideas, but proportion of single-family homes in needs and the nature around us. It’s a people to move into an industrial undercurrent as to why city planning that doesn’t necessarily mean they Reykjavík. question of quality of life.” area? On this point, Eggertsson says, in Reykjavík is often very politicized won’t be approved. Bragadóttir cut to the heart of When asked how taller buildings “[The area] could be one of the most is illustrated in University of Iceland On the other hand, as of now, the argument, taking the pragmatic would affect the quality of life of beautiful places to live and work. Professor of Urban Planning the Independence Party does not approach: “Before we build on land the city’s residents, Bragadóttir We’ve proposed moving the heaviest Trausti Valsson’s book Planning control City Council. They hold six fillings and the islands,” she told the cited aesthetics, saying, “You get the industries to the outskirts of town or in Iceland from the Settlement to of the council’s fifteen seats, with Grapevine, “we should first build view, but the building can be out of having them refreshed. Instead, we Present Times. Valsson contends opposition alliance R-list controlling on the land we already have on the touch with the space. Regarding the want to see a dense residential area that politics often get in the way of eight seats (the fifteenth seat is held peninsula. We should wait a while importance of quality of the urban by the sea.” effective development. by the sole Liberal Party member before using land fillings. It’s just space, you have to have in mind, But the real crown jewel of the Created in 1972, the on the council, Ólafur Friðrík common sense. It’s true that people for example, at this altitude tall bunch is Vatnsmýri. If the city Development Office has seen Magnússon). In addition, Mayor did live on Víðey, but that changed, buildings cast very long shadows and airport is moved to Skerafjörður as different ruling parties come Steinunn Valdís Óskarsdóttir hails and we should now first consider can in fact generate a windy micro- many have proposed, this will free up and go - the Leftists who came from the Alliance Party. R-list holds where it’s already more practical to climate.” an enormous swath of land within to power in the late 70s rejected the majority - albeit a slim one build, on the peninsula.” Eggertsson is particularly city limits. Bragadóttir herself sees many of the conservatives’ earlier - so the planning ideas put forth Others, such as Stefánsson, don’t passionate about what he’d like to the area as having the potential to planning proposals, and when the by the Independence Party could even consider the plan realistic. As see happen in the Five Flowers. contain “thousands of flats,” while conservatives regained power in be defeated by the opposition. Or, he told the Grapevine, “I find the In addition to building Eggertsson adds that he’d like to 1982, they, in turn, rejected many if the next elections go the other idea of developing the islands around apartments in the west harbour area, see the area be the new science and of the development proposals way, Independence Party proposals Reykjavík to be a kind of utopia he told the Grapevine that he’d technology district of Reykjavík. the Leftists had begun, such as could roll through with relative ease that’s fun to think about, but I don’t also like to “build up the harbour “The area could be home of the further development of Reykjavík’s – latest Gallup Poll results indicate think it would be a reality.” atmosphere with fish markets, knowledge industry in its closeness far eastern, mainland section. that 47% would vote R-list and 48% In order to maintain high squares, and ports for small boats. to the University of Iceland, the Politicizing development naturally would vote Independence Party if density and a high quality of life, The Maritime Museum just opened hospital and the University of slows down the process. City Council elections were held the Planning Council has proposed there, which is a good start, but we Reykjavík,” he told the Grapevine. Knowing that any plan set forth today. Whether it goes one way or a development “mix” of apartments want to see more, with a link to the “We want knowledge-based during your watch will immediately another has a lot to do with public and single-family homes. That city centre.” In the east harbour, the industries to find a home there.” be cancelled if another political involvement from the very start proposal, called the “Five Flowers,” Planning Council has designs on When told of the Five Flowers party is elected makes for rash – planning meetings are regularly focuses on five areas of the city: building a concert hall, hotels, retail proposal, Firchow was very positive. decisions. Many cite as an example advertised and are open to the public. the Mýrargata-Slippasvæði of the outlets, restaurants and even a new “That sounds like the right the current Miklabraut-Hringbraut With City Council elections coming west harbour area, the east harbour headquarters for Landsbanki. approach,” he told the Grapevine. construction project that connects up next spring, Reykjavík’s residents area, the neighbourhood around the Hlemmur seems to be what “In the 1950s in America, you had these two four-lane roads with a can also choose through their votes bus terminal Hlemmur, the largely Eggertsson would like to be the new these ‘bubbles,’ where there were six-lane road that bows over 50 what they want their city to be: an industrial area of Elliðaárvogur, and hub of Reykjavík youth culture. single-family homes in one bubble, metres away from the hospital. Apart unsustainable suburb that ultimately the crucial Vatnsmýri, where the “We’d like to see at least a apartments in another, and services from the fact that placing a six-lane serves no one, or a thriving city that city airport currently resides. All of thousand new apartments in that in yet another. This segregation of road as a connection between two maintains a high quality of life for these areas will be predominantly area,” he told the Grapevine, “maybe services puts a lot of pressure on four-lane roads is an invitation to all and could even set an example for apartments, thereby keeping density with a focus on young people and a city’s infrastructure. Integration severe bottlenecking of traffic in capital cities the world over. high, but Bragadóttir doesn’t believe students, who use the bus more than of use [like the Five Flowers plan] either direction, there were also

Plans for high rises on Reykjavík’s Skuggahverfi by the City Planning Council

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���������� Open 12 - 22 Laugavegur 11 Jónsi, seen here singing his little-known Magnason has claimed, the Gay Pride Gay Pride Day: makes Independence Day single, “My Sixpack Will Destroy You.” Celebrations in Iceland have surmounted see centerfold for location June 17th, Icelandic Independence Day, look like an insurance seminar. in numbers of celebrators, and possibly in meaning—many marching under the GAY PRIDE rainbow flag remember a time when being openly gay was not as accepted as it is now. CELEBRATION: NASA, the large night club in downtown Reykjavík near the home of Iceland’s founding father Jón “Forseti” Saturday August 6th Sigurðsson, will hold the official Gay Pride Party, with proceeds going to support local Last year’s Gay Pride Celebration youth groups. But almost every club in brought in a reported 40,000 visitors, town will present live music, and the streets though from our office, downtown will be packed until morning with tolerant Reykjavík looked a good deal more packed revellers. than that. As local author Andri Snær For more information, visit www.gayice.is. Children simultaneously promoting tolerance and giving Jerry Falwell a seizure. �������� ������� Pravda Tíu Dropar Austurstræti 22 Rex CAFÉS Vitabar 22 Dillon 8 Laugavegur 27 15 Bergþórugata 21 25 Austurstræti 9 28 Laugavegur 30 Located in the centre of Reykjavík, Pravda is one of the larger clubs/bars Café Roma A very nice “grandma” style café. Actually a bar, but best known for its A favourite hangout for Kate From the I’ve-just-been-to-hell- It’s not that apparent from the in downtown Reykjavík as it is divided Winslet look-alikes. Rex is one of Laugavegur 118 hamburgers. A burger with fries for between two floors and also separately in and-boy-am-I-pissed art on the 1 street, being in on the bottom floor, the more posh hangouts, dress 500 is one of the best meal deals in walls, to the hard rock on the but is actually bigger than it looks. to the Pravda Bar and the Pravda Club. Is the closest thing you’ll find to town, but special mention must go to Club section of Pravda is ideal for dancing, code is not insisted upon, but you’ll speakers and steady-flowing They serve traditional treats such a New York deli in town. A lively the Forget-Me-Not blue cheese and with DJs playing house and techno music, find yourself out of place if you’re whiskey at the bar, Dillon is vying as hot chocolate and waffles, but cross-section of artists, students garlic extravaganza. The Viking beer while the Bar section is somewhat more too casual. Also rumoured to be a for the aggressive crowd. grandma is also known to come and office workers enjoy home- always feels particularly cold and quiet and chilled out, with occasional live haunt for generous middle-aged up with new delicacies, such as the jazz and sometimes reggae. The building it baked panini and great coffee all at refreshing here. ladies. Snickers cake, and you can even try self has interesting history as the first and low prices. her latest work in progress. only king in Iceland stayed there during his reign back in the early 18th century.

Kaffi Kúltur Thorvaldsen Glaumbar Ráðhúskaffi Kaffitár Vegamót 23 Hverfisgata 18 Austurstræti 8 26 Tryggvagata 20 2 City Hall 9 Bankastræti 8 16 Vegamótastígur 4 29 For those who grow tired of seeing Posh as the fifth circle of hell. That nothing but palefaces about town, Kaffi One of the few proper sport bars in With a view over the city pond, Expanded and improved, this is Wants to be the in spot to be seen, said, they make a mean Mojito. DJs Kúltur might be a pleasant diversion. Reykjavík, so you can go and watch Rá›húskaffi is situated inside the the downtown store for one of the and succeeds to some degree. Dress on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. During the day its something of a hangout whatever game happens to be on City Hall. Coffee and great cakes as country’s finest coffee importers. up, flaunt it and enjoy the view as Arrive before 12 if you want to for the actors from the National Theatre, the TV screens. The establishment you enjoy the view. Free Internet While anything here is good, the others do the same. It’s a jungle in just across the street, but in the evening avoid the queue. Theme nights is basically based around the bar, access for customers and, in the speciality coffee drinks are truly there, and the fittest, or at least the it is populated by both new and older during the week, wine and cheese so you won´t have to go a long way lobby of City Hall, you’ll find a big remarkable: our favourite, the fittest looking, come out on top. Icelanders. They have multi-ethnic food on Wednesdays, Finlandia nights on for a drink. Open until five, and has 80m2 model of Iceland as well as Azteca, an espresso drink with lime Kitchen open every day until 22. and frequent concerts. Wednesday night Fridays and Sunday roast on, well, a reputation for late night partying changing exhibitions. and Tabasco. Specials of the day and weekend is tango night. Anyone can join in, as a Sundays. Civilian attire is looked brunch. Try the lobster pizza. free lesson from 8-9 p.m. precedes the down upon. tango night itself.

Te & Kaffi Grái Kötturinn 10 Laugavegur 24 Póstbarinn Hverfisgata 16a 3 17 Pósthússtræti 13 SPOTthis DOWNTOWN REYKJAVIK The downtown location for the other Grái Kötturinn(grey cat) is across big coffee importer (see Kaffitár for Situated by Austurvöllur, the street from the National Theatre the competition), Te og Kaffi boasts Póstbarinn is a bistro prized and is quite small and very popular the nation’s best-trained baristi, restaurant, a rare treat. It is also �� in the early hours of the day. A �� as proven in a recent competition. one of few restaurants in Reykjavík ������������ good place to start a day the British Newly situated on the sunnier side with decent outdoor service. Live �� way, with eggs and bacon and other �� of the street, this coffee shop has jazz once a week and check out the ������������ traditional breakfasts on the menu. �� �� an ideal angle for people-gazing. reasonably prized fish menu they The lunch menu is also inviting, but �� Everything we’ve ever tried here is have, only 1490ISK. �� somewhat pricey. good, especially if it has chocolate � in it. �� �� �� �� ����������� Kolaportið Flea Market ������������� �� �� � As the film 101 Reykjavík by Baltasar Kormákur, and �� Sólon �� 11 the book on which it is based by Hallgrímur Helgason, Kaffi Hljómalind �� Bankastræti 7a Rósenberg ���������� Laugavegur 21 teaches us, you can find almost anything in this flea �� � 4 Lækjargata 2 �� 18 ������������ Named after (in his own market. Located down by the harbour in the same �� A peaceful, non-smoking café ����������� BARS opinion, n´ BISTRO at least), Iceland’s greatest Perhaps the closest we have to building with customs, beyond plastic Christmas trees �� with perfect windows for people � man, Sólon is a pretty crowded nightclub a jazz club, and old instruments and that sort of thing, they also have a good budget- watching and a lot of daylight. on Friday and Saturday nights. It seems to line the walls. People go there for �� Hljómalind is run by a non-profit friendly priced fish market, with delicacies from salmon �� � have more lives than one, however, since conversation and listening to music ���������������� organization and it only serves to shark, offering a good possibility to taste the local in the day it’s a fairly artsy coffeehouse rather than dancing. The place �� �� organic & fair trade products. flavours. Take it easy when chewing harðfiskur, the dried, ������������� �� and in the evening (weeknights) they tends to have jazz or blues type Also music performances and art have a decent menu. You can get a three- white cod eaten as a snack by people with no sense of �� music. �� exhibitions. course fish of the day meal for under 2000 smell. krónur, or try the delicious fish and meat Kolaportið, Geirsgata, Sat, Sun 11 – 17. mixed sticks. �� Mokka Café 22 Grand Rokk 5 Skólavörðustígur 3a 12 Laugavegur 22 19 Smiðjustígur 6 A place true to the spirit of rock ‘n’ roll An Icelandic tradition since 1958, The top floor is dedicated to artist Mokka is the oldest café in Reykjavík and bands that don’t do covers. Better and Jón Sæmundur, aka Dead. Downstairs �� �� and the first one to make coffee lesser-known Icelandic bands play there, is a decent bistro (try the Gringo), �� �� with an espresso machine. The walls usually no less than three bands a night, � are covered with art for sale and, whereas the middle floor houses a four nights a week. Whether they charge �� dancefloor. Open until the wee small admission or not is up to the bands, but �� ������������ ���� though seats are usually filled by �� loyal customers, every now and then hours, and a great place for a late if they do, all proceeds do go to starving �� ����������� ��������������� you’ll catch a glimpse of the owners, a night drink for those who want drink artists. Grab a beer and rock on! During ����������� really nice and friendly couple in their along with a less trendy (and perhaps the day this is a hangout for chess players, challenging each other and anyone that seventies who have owned the café more cool) crowd. Be warned, though, ����������������� ������������ �� since its inception. This is the place to might wander in here for a game, as every ���������� �� ��� they do charge 500 krónur entrance � �� ���� go for the best waffles in town. table doubles as a chess board. One of the �� �� � after 01:30. � best places to meet locals for a chat. � � � �� ��� � ����������� � Bakhúsið Kaffibarinn ��� 6 Laugavegur 55 13 Bergstaðastræti 1 Bar 11 ��������������� � Laugavegur 11 ��������������� Bakhusið is a cosy newcomer in Kaffibarinn is Cool Reykjavík, or at least 20 ������������ 101, a well-hidden café on a quiet tries to be. Reykjavík prides itself on The rock hangout, be it live music ��������� backyard just around the corner from having more artists per capita than any �� or the riff-heavy jukebox. Many of � Laugavegur. It’s the place to go to other capital in the world, and the crowd �� for a perfect cup of traditional Italian here seems to be trying to prove the Iceland’s rock bands are regulars. coffee, advisably enjoyed with the best point, with musicians, actors and writers Live music especially on weekdays, chocolate cake around. We wouldn’t ranging from the hopefuls to the world weekends crowded till late, or ������������ suggest sharing a piece, though, as famous. Blur’s Damon Albarn owns a better said early in the morning. fighting for the bites may well cause share of the bar, probably figuring it was some tension around the table. We cheaper than buying drinks all the time. can also warmly recommend the Another owner is the director of the film menu. 101 Reykjavík.

Sirkus Gaukur á Stöng Svartakaffi 14 Klapparstígur 30 Hressingarskálinn Prikið 27 Tryggvagata 22 Litli Ljóti 7 Laugavegur 54 21 Austurstræti 20 24 Bankastræti 12 30 Andarunginn “Welcome to the Jungle/ We got fun and Iceland’s oldest bar is now in its Lækjargata 6b Read the newspaper, have a cup games,” quoth the poet. With tropical palm The celebrated site of one of the Used to be a traditional early twenties. During the day it’s a trees on the outside and tropical heat of coffee, have a philosophical more famous coffeehouses in coffeehouse that has been around pool pub and on weekday evenings Named after the HC Andersen on the inside, welcome to the party that conversation with your cigarette longer than any but, after a change there are live rock concerts by a mix fairy tale, The Ugly Duckling. The never came to an end and doesn’t seem to Iceland, this bar/ coffeehouse/ of clientele, they now cater to a of mainstream and underground Duckling is one of the very best and enjoy the speciality of the be ending any time soon. Usually full of restaurant brings a European flair house, soup in a bread bowl. Aim to the city. That is until about 11, younger crowd. A diner during the bands. On weekends there is usually places for a quiet night, when regulars (many of whom are, were or want a lot of action with cover bands high, it’s not on the ground floor. to be students of the Icelandic Academy when things get to rockin’, and day and a nightclub on weekends. even on Saturday nights you can playing everything from Britney to of Arts) mixed with musicians and other you can see the true character of You can also borrow games there, hear what your partner is saying. members of the city’s underground. The Reykjavík. such as backgammon or chess. the Beatles. Admission is sometimes They also serve a lunch menu.a upper floor, for whatever reason, looks like between 500-1000 weekends, but reputation for late night partying the inside of a bus usually its free. PRACTICAL Tapas CLIP INFORMATION La Primavera Dillon 31 Humarhúsið 37 Vesturgata 3b Bæjarins Bestu Laugavegur 30 Austurstræti 9 Tryggvagata n´SAVE 28 Amtmannstígur 1 44 PUBLIC TRANSPORT Everybody laughed when we 34 For those with a bit of money and time Reykjavík has no trams, trains nor subways From the I’ve-just-been-to-hell- RESTAURANTS discovered a contemporary restau- on their hands, the evening is well They claim to have the best hot dogs rant that has its most notable influences One of the oldest restaurants - only buses. The price of a single fare is 220ISK and-boy-am-I-pissed art on the spent at Tapas, where you can while in town, and for once the product from northern Italian cooking but using in the country, this fine dining for an adult (60ISK for children under 12). If walls, to the hard rock on the away the evening having course after lives up to the hype. Ask for one you are in town for more than a few days, the local Icelandic produce. The unique establishment is known for its humar speakers and steady-flowing course of wonderful miniature dishes with everything, and you’ll get a nine ticket package for 1500ISK would be a menu that results from this combination (lobster), but also for an impressive whiskey at the bar, Dillon is vying served. Recommended is the garlic- dog in a bun with ketchup, mustard, better deal. Bus cards valid for two weeks, a features homemade pastas, risotto, cognac lounge, and for intimate month or three months are also available. You for the aggressive crowd. gnocchi, polenta and a wide variety of the fried lobster and lamb in apricot sauce. remoulade (don’t ask), fried and raw dining. have to pay as you step on board and it has to freshest vegetables, fish, poultry, meat and If you don’t feel like getting up right onion. The standard Icelandic hot be the exact amount, as the driver cannot give game. The menu, the atmosphere and a away afterwards, there’s also a lounge dog, only somehow it tastes better. you change. You can ask the driver for a free, comprehensive, exclusively Italian wine list to lounge in, and the paintings there time-limited transfer ticket if you need two has made La Primavera a favourite among are worth a look. buses to complete your journey. The bus system the locals. They laugh no more!! is closed at night, between 24:00 and 6:40 approximately. For more information and bus rides, go to Apótek Hlölla Bátar Hlemmur and Lækjartorg, the main bus stops Glaumbar in town. Tveir Fiskar Austurstræti 16 Jómfrúin By Ingólfstorg Tryggvagata 20 35 45 Geirsgata 9 29 32 38 Lækjargata 4 TAXIS A trendy, modern restaurant serving The first sub sandwich shop in One of the few proper sport bars in Seafood restaurant, although they Scandinavian fusion at its best. In this global age, it can be hard Iceland, opened in 1986, Hlölla The main taxi companies in Reykjavík Reykjavík, so you can go and watch also do land-based animals. At The chef brings together French, to find good smörrebröd even in Bátar has a large selection of subs are Hreyfill 588 5522, BSR 561 0000, whatever game happens to be on lunchtime you can have a three- Indian and Japanese influences and Copenhagen. Never fear: out here in filled and named with creativity and Borgarbilastöðin 552 2440 and the TV screens. The establishment course meal for 2300, which isn’t traditional Icelandic ingredients. the colonies you can still find first rate imagination. Brave souls might want BSH 555 0888. is basically based around the bar, too bad, all things considered. The We’ve heard from reliable sources smörrebröd at Jómfrúin. They even to try the Gúmmí-Bátur (rubber boat), so you won´t have to go a long way INTERNET chef has been awarded the Medal that their catfish is among the best in import their own eel directly from which might seem like an oversized for a drink. Open until five, and has of the Order of the White Rose by town. In a building that once used to Denmark to make one of Scandinavia’s relative of the ever-present pylsa, or There’s an excellent wireless internet a reputation for late night partying the President of Finland. s. be a pharmacy, Apótek also houses a delicacies. go local and choose Sýslumannabátur network coverage in Reykjavík, which bar/café. (sheriff sub) with lamb filling. means that you only need a network card on your laptop to log on almost anywhere. Wireless network hot spots are marked in listings. Shalimar Eldsmiðjan If you’re not travelling with a laptop in 39 Austurstræti 4 46 Bragagata 38a your bag, there are computers for internet DOWNTOWN REYKJAVIK use, e.g. at following places: Prides itself on being the Oven-baked pizzas simply don’t get Ráðhúskaffi, the city hall. northernmost Indian restaurant much better than this. It is slightly more Tourist information, Aðalstræti, also see in the world. How this affects the expensive than other pizzerias, but well ad. On page 4. �� food, we don’t know as there are worth it. A wide selection of toppings, City library, Tryggvagata 15. �� ������������ no comparisons in town. The daily including that sorely missed pizza FOR WIRELESS NETWORKS, TRY: �� special, comprised of two dishes on delight, snails. You can also turn the �� your plate, goes for roughly 1000ISK. Kaffibarinn, Bergstaðastræti 1. ������������ �� �� chef loose and let him decide what goes But we recommend the Chicken Tikka on it - you’ ll rarely be disappointed. Hressingarskálinn, Austurstræti 20. �� �� Masala, known to be highly addictive. Take away, order delivery, or eat in Kaffi Hljómalind, Laugavegur 21. � And if the curry gets to you, they have at the cosy restaurant upstairs. The a self-service ice cream cone machine. paintings are worth a peek as well. SUPERMARKETS: �� �� �� �� ����������� Supermarkets are generally open between ������������� 9 and 18. For longer opening hours, go �� �� � �� �� for 10-11. Tjarnarbakkinn Quiznos Sub 10-11, branches around Reykjavik, try the �� Vonarstræti 3 Lækjargata �� ���������� � 40 47 one on Austurstræti �� �� Krambúðin, Skolavörðustigur ���������� Above the I›nó theatre, so it’s a good A new branch of the American �� ����������� Bónus, Laugavegur �� place to go before shows, or during if Quiznos has entered the thriving � Heilsu húsið, Skólavörðustigur (for the you prefer a more quiet atmosphere. downtown sub market, and it’s you, veggies and vegans) �� If you sit by the window you get our dear, hungry reader that gains �� � ���������������� a nice view of the pond. It’s not a from it. A good selection of tasty SHOPPING MALLS �� �� subs, but also sandwiches, salads, �� bad place to try one of Iceland’s Kringlan, Kringlunni 4-12, 103 Reykjavík. ������������� soup of the day. This is Quiznos first culinary specialities, the lamb steak, Eg. buses 111, 115 or a 30-minutes walk �� one of those rare traditional treats European restaurant, your response �� from the city centre will decide how many more will that does not come as a shock to the Smáralind, Hagasmári, 201 Kópavogur. come East. uninitiated. Buses 16, 17 �� Nonnabiti Fine Vegetarian 41 Hafnarstræti 11 48 Laugavegur 20b FAST FOOD The owner is a miser who Used to be called One Woman �� �� charges additionally for everything, Restaurant, as there was always the �� but this is almost certainly the best same woman working there. Has junk food in the Greater Reykjavík new owners and a larger staff, but �� ������������ area. The subs are great, none of the theme is still vegetarian, with that Subway commitment to healthy ������������� one vegan and one wheat-free dish �� ����������� living, and they probably contribute always on offer. The only vegetarian ����������� significantly to the ever-increasing restaurant licensed to carry beer and “size” of the nation. They also serve ��������������������������� �� wine. Remains on the right side of ���� burgers and sandwiches, and have � �� �� ���������� ����� the 1000 krónur bill at lunchtime, lunchtime offers. slips slightly over in the evening. �� � � ����������� ��������������� Pizza King Dominos Pizza ��������������� 42 Hafnarstræti 18 49 ������������ ��������� Yes, you can go here late at night Welcome to Iceland, home of the �� � and grab the best pizza in town, most profitable Dominos franchises �� but it is also home to the best in the world. You know the taste. lunch specials, and food so good The number, for anywhere in ������������ you’d eat it sober, something Iceland, is 58-12345. Go local and you can’t say for most food in hit the global chain. Look by the Reykjavík. Call in advance if you’re harbour downtown. going during the day.

Litli Ljóti Hornið Pasta Basta Purple Onion Mamas Tacos 30 Andarunginn 33 Hafnarstræti 15 36 Klapparstígur 38 43 Hafnarstræti 18 50 Lækjargata 10 Lækjargata 6b Means “the corner” and the place An affordable Italian place, the Stepping up Reykjavík’s diversity a With a new location comes a new Named after the HC Andersen lives up to its name. This is actually pasta is in generous portions and notch, the Purple Onion serves up selection: Mama’s Taco’s now fairy tale, The Ugly Duckling. The the oldest Italian restaurant in town, the salad with grilled chicken is a Eastern European and Mediterranean has fast and cheap Mexican food Duckling is one of the very best celebrating its 25th year, which says good light option. The garden is food fast. If you are as uncultured downstairs, and outstanding and places for a quiet night, when something about the scene here nice, with a glass ceiling protecting as we are, just smile and say more regional Mexican cuisine even on Saturday nights you can before then. Excellent quality pizza, punters from the wind and the rain you’re hungry, and they’ll give you upstairs. You must try Mama’s own hear what your partner is saying. pasta and salads and yet remaining at all times of year. Upstairs, the something nice for under 1000 ISK. homemade tortillas. They also serve a lunch menu.a one of the more affordable ones. Try Blue Bar offers a more bar type reputation for late night partying the calzone. atmosphere. 30

PRACTICAL CLIP INFORMATION The Pond and Beyond n´SAVE MUSEUMS Grapevine Picks for Museums and Galleries The Reykjavík Art Museum �������������� Hafnarhús Tryggvagata 17 ��������������������

Kjarvalsstaðir Flókagata, 105 Reykjavík

Ásmundur Sveinsson Sculpture Museum Sigtún ����������� ������������ Árbæjarsafn Árbær www.listasafnreykjavikur.is ����������� ��������� The Culture House ���������� Hverfisgata 15 ������������ www.thjodmenning.is ���������

Reykjavík Museum of Photography ���������� Tryggvagata 15 �������� www.ljosmyndasafnreykjavikur.is ����������������������� Nordic House Sturlugata 5 www.nordice.is

Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum Laugarmestangi 70 ����������������� www.lso.is

Reykjavík Electrical Museum Refstöðvarvegur www.rafheimar.is

ASÍ Art Museum Freyjugata 41 www.asi.is �������������������� Einar Jónsson Museum Eiríksgata and the sculpture garden, Freyjugata www.skulptur.is City Hall - Ráðhúsið Gallery Banananas Reykjavík Art Museum National Gallery of Iceland Frikirkjuvegur 7 Vonarstræti Tryggvagata 17, Ásgrimur Jónsson collection phone: 590-1200 Bergstaðastræti 74 A rite of summer, the www.nationalgallery.is outdoor, constantly- revolving gallery is a must National Museum of Iceland for a sunny afternoon. Suðurgata 41 www.natmus.is Okay, there are probably two sunny afternoons a summer in Iceland. If you get one, get out to Gallery Bananananas. Laugavegur 80. Outside.

In the spacious room, next to the smallish version of Iceland, you’ll find the glass-fusion of local artist Þóa. She works mainly with glass, creating sculptures, lamps and wall-decorations that reflect on Icelandic nature and Indriði Klæðskeri ideas of freedom. The exhibition is called Looking at the Sky so be sure to look for the birds – not only outside but Skólavörðustígur 10, phone: 551-2805 in various artistic versions as well. WWW.GRAPEVINE.IS

Kirsuberjatréð (The Cherry Tree) For the Reykjavík Art Festival, the Vesturgata 4, phone: 562-8990 downtown Reykjavík Art Museum features a collection of German artist Dieter Roth, who lived in Iceland during a key moment of his creative output, and who has had a significant influence on the local scene ever since.

Walking through the “Flower street” Skólavörðustígur you can look inside the arty store of Indriði and find an interesting exhibition by Þóroddur Bjarnason. In this project he works with the Bible tale of Sakkeus and creates a conversation among space, ideas, words and audience. His statements can also be seen outside from Experience, watch and touch all kinds of art, jewellery, the street but the message is clearer if you just go in and felt, pottery and clothes in cosy surroundings. A group ponder a bit. project of ten funky Icelandic artists the store is a great place to stop and admire the colours, craft and originality of Icelandic design. You can buy stuff too, and it’s one of a kind. Kjarvalsstaðir at Flókagata

Grapevine survival tip #4 What to do if you get lost in an Icelandic forest?

Collecting the most influential Icelandic works of the last century, this Stand up! exhibit, on loan from the National Gallery, comes highly recommended. Jóhannes Kjarval, for whom the museum is named, is of course on display in this exhibit—and he still may be the scene-stealer.

Gel Gallerí

Hverfisgata 37, phone: 551-7733 Want to know more? get lost

Inside the hair salon Gel is a gallery that currently exhibits the works of Kristrún Eyjólfsdóttir, simple paintings of sophisticated shape, every day snapshots of familiar people in minimalistic surroundings. The exhibition is called “I Don’t Know” and is colourful, humorous yet tinged with sadness. Gel Gallerí is one of the most interesting galleries in town, enjoy the music and dance if you need to, and if you want to sit down you might even get a haircut. Naked Ape

Naked Ape is a newly-opened gallery and a store, an art centre with works by Ólafur Orri Guðmundsson, Berglind Ágústdóttir and Hafsteinn Mikael at the moment, and a colourful line of prints (clothes, bed linen, bags) by the owner Sara María Eyþórsdóttir. It also contains a small workshop, a handsome commercial addition to the artistic community...which also makes good use of the word “Ape”, something we’d like to see a lot more of. The word “Ape”. Charlton Heston-style. As in “Get your hands off me.” Gallery Naked Ape, Bankastræti 14. Phone: 531-1415

Open 12 - 22 �������� ������� ����� Laugavegur 11 see centerfold for location 32 Shopping H.S.

Night and Day: Two Very Different Only blocks apart from each other, two local craftsmen have done wonders with... the shirt. Different as night and day, or maybe as different as the left and the right Approaches, If Shirts Are Your Thing hemispheres of the brain, Indriði and Jón Sæmundur, owners and creators of Indriði By Bart Cameron and Nonnabúð, respectively, are making shirts that feel more like art than clothes. Nonnabúð Indriði H.S. The most celebrated t-shirts in town have come On a sunny day, you can find the shirt store out of Nonnabúð for years. Even a casual visitor Indriði by the line of women getting help at the will notice mobs of young people, and many desk. Which at first glance may be curious: all older people trying to be young, in black shirts the shirts in the shop are men’s shirts, designed with skulls. Jón Sæmundur is consistently in by Indriði himself. danger of making t-shirts that are so popular At Nonnabúð, we heard the Cramps and that they become too popular. the Raveonettes. When we come in to Indriði, “The ideas are always changing. He’s always we hear James Last, the German composer who got a new line-up. I’d look to see him getting liked to lighten up pop. away from the traditional Dead idea,” Elsa, My friend describes Indriði, sitting at his store clerk and sometime Singapore Sling back- design counter, as the easiest-going, goofy up singer, told us on our recent visit. shop-owner he’s ever met. The shirts on display included a range Every shirt in Indriði is priced the same: 8900 of artists and writers, including of course ISK. Every shirt is classical with subtle style Laxness, given a respectable silver on black rock touches and custom fabric, all designed by treatment, and the illustrious local illustrator Indriði. And every shirt is a limited item—only Flóki. These shirts, which cull the best and 30 of each design are made and sold. most romantic of local history, are priced at Maybe it’s the casual demeanour of the about 3900 ISK. shop, or maybe it’s the fact that every shirt in Of course, the skull thing still appeals to the the store looks like it’s someone’s favourite, the masses. While we were in the shop, a couple one they wear to every family photo, but the stopped by to see if the black skull jacket looked 8900 seems reasonable. And, indeed, a shirt I good, and we imagine people will be checking had my eye on was gone on a second visit. GRAPEVINE’S PURCHASES out the same jacket for years. Indriði explained his clientele: “It really THAT JUSTIFY EXISTENCE doesn’t matter the income. It’s the type. If you Nonnabúð, Laugavegur 20b, 101 Reykjavík. like small and personal, then you end up here.” Phone: 551-6811. Indriði, Skólavörðustígur 10, Jonagold Apples from Bónus, still 14 ISK/kg. A bargain, and, 101 Reykjavík. Phone: 551-2805. according to our own Paul Nikolov, nature’s own toothbrush. H.S.

Ten ticket pass for the ITR Reykjavík swimming pools. 1 For only 1900 ISK you get ten entries to the Reykajvík pools AND locker rooms. That’s a lot of naked people. Throw in heated outdoor pools, hot pots, steam rooms, and you’ve got 2a bargain. For a list of pools go to www.itr.is. Cheap books! A new thing to Iceland, Penguin Popular Classic paperbacks from Eymundsson. That world classic with an Icelandic focus, Jules Verne’s Journey to the Centre 3of the Earth, costs only ISK395. 33 Buy Fruit The Grapevine Celebrates Capitalism

FOREIGNER’S GUIDE TO VEGETARIAN EATING

The rumour has long been that it’s a dedicated (or fabulously wealthy) soul who decides to eat vegetarian in Iceland. As most fruits and vegetables have to be imported, they tend to be more expensive than locally raised, grass-fed meat-makers – even more so if you want organic. But you needn’t necessarily take out a six-figure loan just to do a week’s vegetarian grocery shopping, provided you know where to shop.

Shopping vegetarian fare with most meals under 1000 ISK. When the personally consider to be the best Thai restaurant in town: On the low end of vegetarian shopping, there’s always our weather’s nice, they set up tables outside so you can enjoy the large portions and limitless rice, with most meals under 1000 favourite standby, Bónus. At the time of this writing, whole view of the neighbouring parking garage. Two blocks away is Á ISK. Smack-dab in the middle of downtown is Indokína, a wheat flour is going for 68 ISK/kg, loose potatoes for 47 ISK/ Næstu Grösum, a restaurant that might change its menu now combination Chinese-Vietnamese restaurant with a number of kg, and onions are going for a laughable 1 ISK/kg. A kilo of and then but always has the same prices: 1200 ISK for lunch, soy, noodle and vegetarian dishes that are all reasonably priced. onions for a single króna – don’t let anyone tell you that you 1490 ISK for dinner, and 550 ISK for soup. Not too shabby, can’t live the high life in this country. especially with unlimited bread and hummus to go along with So there you have it. With all these shopping and dining On the higher end is Heilsuhúsið. This corner store is a it. Across the street is Kaffi Hljómalind, which advertises options, you now have no excuse to buy that cheeseburger... you hybrid of vegetarian shop, vegan shop, gourmet shop, miniature itself as a “non profit” organic café. Meals there hover around murdering bastard! library and small pharmacy. Here you’ll find more than the 1000 ISK while offering sidewalk dining in nice weather, standard bird-and-rabbit food fare of most vegetarian shops: for which makes for great people-watching as this restaurant is on those uncertain how to eat healthier – vegetarian or otherwise Laugavegur. Not only can you watch people from your perch Bónus, Laugavegur 59, 562-8200 – there are a few shelves of books on the subject to choose at Hljómalind, you can judge them as inferior, both for eating Heilsuhúsið, Skólavörðustígur 12, 568-9266 from. At the same time, there are multiple shelves of vitamins, meat, and for eating for profit. Grænn Kostur, Skólavörðustígur 8, 552-2028 minerals and other supplements. The current meat alternative Outside of the cosmic vegetarian block, in the more distant Á næstu grösum, Laugavegur 20b, 552-8410 – soy meat – is for sale there for 350 ISK/500g. We’ve had but just as worthy Borgartún, is Maður Lifandi, a combination Kaffi Hljómalind, Laugavegur 21, 517-1980 soy meat before, and you don’t need to worry: it’ll taste like vegetarian restaurant/health food store. The vegetarian dining Maður lifandi, Borgartún 24, 585-8700 whatever you cook it with/in, so we personally recommend is consistent there, but most of the clientele—typically a rush Shalimar, Austurstræti 4, 551-0292 using it in pasta dishes. Organic fruits and vegetables are around lunch and early dinner-- are interested in the organic Krua Thai, Tryggvagata 14, 561-0039 also available, but with grapefruits going for 622 ISK/kg and chicken, said to be the only not sugar-saturated chicken in Indokína, Laugavegur 19, 552-2399 oranges for 422 ISK/kg, you might be better off just eating the Iceland. pesticides on regular fruit and hoping for the best. Not to be ethnocentric, it should be remembered that Asian people had perfected vegetarian cuisine long before Dr. John By Paul F Nikolov Dining Out Harvey Kellogg invented granola. To this end, we recommend Through some New Age twist of fate, three of Reykjavík’s checking out three places of interest. vegetarian restaurants are located within a few second’s walk Shalimar is an Indian restaurant with an extensive vegetarian from each other. menu. There you can eat your fill for between 1200 ISK Grænn Kostur boasts heaping portions of both vegan and and 1500 ISK. A little further west is Krua Thai, which we 34

$ Restaurants DINING, Under ISK 1000 $ $ EATING Between ISK 1000 and ISK 2500 $ $ $ & GRUBBING Between ISK 2500 and ISK 4000 The Ideal Place for…. $ $ $ $ Eliza Reid on Reykjavík Dining Over ISK 4000

LAUGA ÁS OLIVER (CNN); “Might be worth a trip to Iceland all by itself ” (Forbes). It would seem from what is written here that this is one of the greatest places on earth. That’s a lot to live up to. And although the guidebooks rave, some Icelanders I have spoken to say it’s not as good as it used to be. The truth, of course, lies somewhere in between, but far more on the positive side than the negative. The atmosphere at Siggi Hall is bright and cheerful, yet classy. It’s set in the sunroom of the Hótel Óðinsvé, so there is lots of natural light. The jazz greats are crooning in the background. It’s fine to dress casually, but a bit of effort in the fashion department would not be amiss. This is not a romantic environment; save your marriage proposal for somewhere a bit more intimate. But if you want to celebrate your recent Frímann promotion, or just to enjoy a bit of a splurge night out on your last evening in town, this is perfect. As one would expect from a place this highly rated, the food Laugavegur 20, Tel. 552 2300, was of superior standard and creatively presented. The menu $ $ www.cafeoliver.is features several fish items, and certainly the parmesan-crusted halibut (2900 ISK) was delicious, although my lamb with There seem to be three things that are crucial to the successful blueberry sauce (4000 ISK) was also good. The steamed running of the bistro-bars that are ubiquitous in Reykjavík: puddings were well worth the 20-minute wait to cook them. One of the most original creations was an amuse bouche of 1. Good food, preferably served with artistically drizzled smoked salmon marinated in gin and tonic – a noticeable yet balsamic glaze subtle flavour. 2. Surroundings that are comfortable for anyone from laptop Siggi Hall himself, a famous personality within Iceland from his users or gossiping girlfriends, to first daters and giddy revellers days as a TV chef, is a real presence in his restaurant. He visits 3. A healthy assortment of beautiful young Nordic people each table at least once to chat amiably in various languages. I drinking lattés or Coke found his meanderings quite charming. Siggi Hall has been around a while. Having visited to find out Frímann Oliver, the current bar du jour in Reykjavík, is expert in all whether it had lost its sheen, this place may not have the thrill these fields. The food was delicious and well priced. My starter of a new experience, but it’s still a strong contender in the Great of gnocchi provencal (890 ISK) was creative and flavourful, Reykjavík Restaurant stakes. Lauga Ás Seafood Restaurant, and presented with the requisite balsamic glaze. The goat’s $ $ $ Laugarásvegur 1, cheese stuffed chicken breast (1950 ISK) was fantastic and my [email protected] Tel. 553-1620 companion raved about her baked cod (1890 ISK). Everything Open for dinner only. Closed Mondays. was beautifully presented and the coffee cups were especially Reservations recommended but not required. It’s the kind of place your parents could have been going to nifty (they are from the “Body Talk” series, if that provides any religiously every Monday for the last 20 years. Lauga Ás proudly hint of the reason). Thanks to the large portions, the food is Ga-Jol, proclaims itself the oldest restaurant in Reykjavík, which speaks very good value. Many starters would easily suffice for a main Good for Cooking for its popularity in a land of fads and trends. Its unobtrusive course. location in a strip mall almost next to the Laugardalur The atmosphere at Oliver is very similar to its bistro-bar swimming pool isn’t likely to draw in any casual passers-by, competitors. There’s a spacious patio on the roof at the back for but it is clear from the regulars inside that Lauga Ás is a well- the few sunny days of summer. A nice touch is the rule that the regarded secret. ground floor remains non-smoking until 10 pm. Family-run (and family-friendly: there is an extensive children’s The managers at Oliver may be following the pattern of these menu and small play area for kids), this restaurant has a types of establishments to the letter, but the news is not all comfortable, relaxed atmosphere. You won’t feel out of place if good, however. The service, while friendly, was sporadic. It you turn up a little scruffy from swimming, hiking, or souvenir- took a while for drinks to arrive and to get someone’s attention shopping all day. That’s a welcome change from some places to order dessert. The service was fairly indicative of the general downtown, where you might not feel like you fit in unless you mood of the restaurant. Oliver knows it has good food. It knows have the right haircut. it is the most popular bistro at the moment. Why does it need The décor is, I imagine, almost exactly as it was when the to do anything else? restaurant opened in 1979, yet it does not seem tired or overly This complacency certainly does not seem to be affecting dated. Actually I think the matching checked curtains and Oliver’s popularity. Maybe the food and some eye candy really lampshades, as well as the three-foot ceramic chefs holding the are all people are looking for. menus, seem to add to the charm of the place. Lauga Ás specializes in seafood and fish (especially varieties that are unavailable elsewhere, states the menu), and offers a number of three-course menus centred around lobster tails paired with SIGGI HALL fish, meat, or game. Ignore or enjoy the rather galling spelling Frímann errors in the English part of the menu, something which seems common to every restaurant in Reykjavík, and you will be able to choose from a lobster feast (2990 ISK) or lobster party (lobster paired with another food, 2900 – 3300 ISK), or select from the a la carte assortment, including hamburgers and pasta Turns Pork Loins dishes. The main courses may seem a trifle pricey, but they all into Chicken come with soup. For dessert, I can recommend the ice cream products: my ice cream cake had a delicious layer of marzipan for added texture and flavour. Portions are generous, well- Restaurants in Reykjavík presented, and just plain yummy. If you’re staying in the Laugar Valley area, this is a 3 Frakkar Baldursgata 14 Phone: 552 3939 recommended place for friendly service and good food without Hornið Hafnarstræti 15 Phone: 551 3340 Jómfrúin Lækjargata 4 Phone: 551 0100 a gourmet price. Think Humarhúsið for people in outdoor wear Maru, Aðalstræti 12 Phone: 511 4440 and hiking boots. Pasta Basta, Klapparstígur 38 Phone: 511 2238 Open Weekdays 11:00 – 21:00 Weekends 15:00 – 21:00 Tapas, Vesturgata 3B, Phone: 551 2344 www.laugaas.is (featuring great photo of the ceramic menu-holding Tveir Fiskar, Geirsgata 9 Phone: 511 3474 Vox Nordica Hotel Suðurlandsbraut 2, 444 5050 chefs) Cafe Victor Hafnarstræti 1-3, Phone: 561 9555 Siggi Hall at Hótel Óðinsvé Cafe Sólon, Bankastræti 7a, Phone: 562 3232 Þórsgata 1. Tel. 511 6677 Vegamót, Vegamótastigur 4, Phone: 511 3040 $ $ $ $ La Primavera, Austurstræti 9, Phone: 561 8555 Shalimar, Austurstræti 4, Phone: 551 0292 Next to the menu on display outside Siggi Hall is a selection of Á næstu grösum, Laugavegur 20a, Phone: 552 8410 Tilveran, Linnetstígur 1, Hafnarfjörður Phone: 5655250 quotes from various illustrious sources: “The food is amazing” Hornið: The Chianti in wicker kind of classy

How do you take a quaint restaurant with the kind of consistently good Italian that always goes with the Chianti that comes in a wicker basket? Well, you make it affordable. Hornið, which has been in the same location for 20 years, has maintained its quality and its affordability throughout. This is the kind of place you take your gal to, or, if you’re a struggling student or artist, that you treat yourself to once a month. The great thing about a mid-range restaurant that has been around so long is the ease that the staff has with the clientele. In fact, Hornið has the best service in Reykjavík among restaurants with dishes under 4000 ISK. It also has the best spaghetti carbonara (1650 ISK) in the city and extremely refreshing pizzas. This restaurant is an institution in town: it will not get more hip, and it will probably not be covered in any local magazines, but it is timeless, or, even better, somewhat dated—to twenty years ago when people just went to restaurants to enjoy the food and feel pleasant. Hafnarstræti 15, 101 Reykjavík Phone: 551-3340.

www.hornid.is. Frímann

By Bart Cameron Previous Bezt í Heimi winners: Ostabúðin Lobster Soup at Ísbúð Vesturbæjar Sægreifinn Go there for a Friday lunch Serving the old (gamli) style and have the blackbird salad. Sægreifinn is one of the charming ice cream, which, according to If you’re starving, add a fish locales in Reykjavík where English customers in the ever-present steak. Praise the chef. Even doesn’t pop up at all. It is a shop for line, is water-based, this is hope you might seduce the chef locals, and the lobster soup, at 650 the favourite for any true and secure your future. ISK, is a cherished secret. Reykjavíkur. 36 CARTOONS

GRAPEVINE TO YOUR DOORSTEP

ONE YEAR SUBSCRIPTION TO THE REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE Get a years subscription (16 issues), including shipping and international handling for the price of: 2320 ISK (Iceland) SUBSCRIBE NOW AT 95 $ (U.S. & Rest of world) WWW.GRAPEVINE.IS 50 euros (Europe) http://www.myndlist.is Kringlan Mall, tel: 568 0400 Icelandic Institute of Natural History Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun 13:00-17:00 Gallery Gel http://www.ni.is/ Ég veit það ekki – Kristrún Eyjólfsdóttir Hlemmur 5, tel: 590 0500 Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00 Sat 12:00-17:00 Hverfisgata 37, tel: 551 7733 Kjarvalsstaðir Art Museum A Selection of 20th Century Works 16 AUGUST Gallery Hulduhólar http://www.listasafnreykjavikur.is 20:30 Sat 11:00-14:00 Daily 10:00-17:00 5-7 AUGUST http://www.hulduholar.com Flókagata, Miklatún, tel: 552 6131 Lýsuhóll, Snæfellsnes Sigurón Ólafsson museum Mosfellsbæ, tel: 556 6194 Arias, cantatas and spieces for teorba Kling & Bang Gallery � If you feel like leaving the city the Krútt- Gallery i8 � Ásmundur Ásmundsson & Gunnhildur festival (Cute-festival) which is taking by Gasparini,Scarlatti, Cazzatti, A Persuit of Happiness ASAP – Lawrence Hauksdóttir until 21st of August. LISTINGS place on Snæfellsnes this weekend would Strozzi, Picinini, Frescobaldi. Jóhanna Weiner until 20th of August Thu-Sun 15:00-18:00 Halldórsdóttir alt, Heike ter Stal teorba, Wed-Fri 11:00-17:00, Sat 13:00-17:00 http://this.is/klingogbang be a real catch. Besides having almost http:// www.i8.is Laugavegur 23, tel: 696 2209 15 bands on its roster, including múm Steinunn Arnbjörg Stefánsdóttir cello and Klapparstígur 33, tel: 551 3666 Guðrún Óskarsdóttir harpsichord. National Gallery of Iceland � Want to be seen in the listings? Send us and Mice Parade, an art exhibition will Gallery of the Icelandic Printmakers Train – Dieter Roth a mail to [email protected] and your be opened at 15:00 on August 6th. The Association 11:00-17:00 except Mon exhibition features work by Pétur Már Tue-Sun 14:00-18:00 http://www.listasafn.is event will be announced in the next issue, ONGOING http://www.islenskgrafik.is Fríkirkjuvegur 7, tel: 515 9600 and the best thing is that being in the Gunnarsson, Elsa D Gísladóttir, Davíð 101 Gallery � Tryggvagata 17, tel: 552 2866 listings is free! Örn Halldórsson, Bryndís Ragnarsdóttir, Þórdís Aðalsteinsdóttir until 9th of National Museum of Iceland Baldur Geir Bragason, Baldur Björnsson, September. Gallery Lobster or Fame Daily 11:00-17:00 Thu -Sat 14:00 - 17:00 Comics in a bomb shelter http://www.natmus.is Hildigunnur Birgisdóttir, Kolbeinn Hugi, http://www.101hotel.is/101hotel/ Mon-Sat 12:00-18:00 Suðurgata 41, tel: 530 2200 Þór Sigurþórsson, Berglind Ágústsdóttir, 101gallery http://www.smekkleysa.is EVENTS Sigga Björg, Hugleikur Dagsson and Guðný Hverfisgata 18a, tel: 561 0125 Laugavegi 59, tel: 534 3730 Nordic House Compiled by Atli Bollason. Terra Borealis – Andy Horner [email protected] Rúnarsdóttir. Art Gallery S. Har Gallery Skuggi Grús both until 28th of August Mon – Fri 12-18, weekends 12-16 Thu-Sun 13:00-17:00 Tue-Sun 12:00-17:00 Skólavörðustígur 25a, 101 R http://www.galleriskuggi.is http://www.nordice.is Hverfisgata 39, tel: 511 1139 Sturlugata 5, tel: 551 7030 Akureyri’s summer of art 7 AUGUST Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum If you’re thinking about going to the Árbæjarsafn Thu- Fri 10:00–17:00, Gallery Sævar Karl Orkuveita Reykajvíkur - Galleri 100° � countryside, Akureyri (aka the capital of Chess-tournament. Sat-Sun 10:00–18:00 Sigrún Ólafsdóttir Train - Dieter Roth Northern Iceland) is probably the place for http://www.minjasafnreykjavikur.is Mon-Fri 10:00-17:00 Mon-Fri 8:30-16:00, Sat 11:00 – 17:00 you if art and culture is your trade. They Kistuhyl 4, 110 R, tel: 577 1111 http://www.saevarkarl.is http://www.rafheimar.is Bankastræti 7, tel: 551 3470 Bæjarhálsvegur 1, tel: 516 6790 have their own arts festival which is running 8 AUGUST ASÍ museum � throughout the summer. We’re so impressed Summer exhibition Gallery Tukt Ófeigur’s Arthouse we’re going to print the whole programme for 17:00 until 14th of August Weekdays 09:00-17:00 Mon – Fri 10:00–18:00 Sat: 10:00-14:00. the next two weeks: Sólon Tue-Sun 13:00 - 17:00 http://www.hitthusid.is Skólavörðustíg 5, tel: 551 1161 http://www.asi.is Pósthússtræti 3-5, tel: 520 4600 Thursday, August 4.: Ketilhouse: Hot Performance of the play How do you like Freyjugata 41, 101 R, tel: 511 5353 Reykjavík Museum of Photography Thursday Jazz, 21:30. Quartett Margot Iceland? by Benóný Ægisson. The play Gerðarsafn, Kópavogur Art Museum � Unsettled – 8 South African Photographers Kiis: Kjartan Valdimarsson, piano, Gunnar takes you on an intelligent, informative Ásmundarsafn, Sculpture museum Material Time/Work Time/Life Time until Mon-Fri 12:00-19:00, Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00. Hrafnsson, bass, Halli Gulli, drums, Margot The Man and Material 21st of August. http://www.ljosmyndasafnreykjavikur.is and hilarious tour through Icelandic Daily 10:00-16:00 Tue-Sun 11:00-17:00 Tryggvagata 15, 6th floor, tel: 562 1790 Kiis, singer. history in approx. 50 minutes. It’s shown http://www.listasafnreykjavikur.is http://www.gerdarsafn.is Saturday, August 6.: Ketilhouse: Django Jazz- on Mondays and Wednesdays for the next Sigtún, 105 R, tel: 553 2155 Hamraborg 4, tel: 570 0440 Safn � Festival, concert, 21:30 Wed-Fri 14:00-18:00, Sat-Sun 14:00-17:00 few weeks and admission is 2000 ISK Thursday, August 11.: Deiglan: Hot Thursday Bananananas Gerðuberg Culture Center http://www.safn.is Jazz, 21:30. B3-Trio: Agnar Mar Magnusson, with a drink included. Further info: http:// Laugavegi 80, 101 R. Collectors II - What do Icelanders collect? Laugavegur 37, tel: 551 4409 www.this.is/great/ Mon-Fri 11:00-17:00 hammond-orgel, Asgeir Asgeirsson, gitar, Erik CIA - Center for Icelandic Art www.gerduberg.is Saga Museum Qvick, drums. Mon-Fri 10:00 – 16:00 Gerðuberg 3-5, tel: 575 7700 Historical figures and major events in Friday, August 12.: Ketilhouse: Concert http://www.cia.is Icelandic history. for lunch: Three singers bass, sopran, Hafnarstræti 16, tel: 562 7262 Gljúfrasteinn - Laxness museum Every day 10:00-18:00 9 AUGUST Thu-Sun 10:00-17:00 HYPERLINK “http://www.sagamuseum.is” mezzosopran & pianoplayer, 12:00 20:30 Culture House www.gljufrasteinn.is http://www.sagamuseum.is Thursday, Aug. 18.: Gallery Gersemi (Blaa Medieval mansucripts – Eddas and Sagas Mosfellsdalur, tel: 586 8066 Perlan (The Pearl), Öskjuhlíð, tel: 511 1517 kannan): Concert for lunch, 12:30 Sigurjón Ólafsson museum though the ages and The National Museum Deiglan: Hot Thursday Jazz: 21:30. Trio Waltzes about love and one hangover – as it was Gyllinhæð – Icelandic Academy of Arts Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum Daily 11:00-17:00 Wed-Sun 14:00-18:00 Acquisitions and Donations Benjamin Koppel from Denmark poem is the title of this concert by Guided tours in English every weekday except Laugavegi 23 Tue-Sun 14:00-17:00 Friday, August 19.: Ketilhouse: Concert for Iceland’s best known double-bass player Wednesdays, http://www.lso.is lunch: Duo, sax & piano, 12:00 Tómas R. Einarsson. He’ll be accompanied http://www.thjodmenning.is Hafnarborg - Institute of Culture and Fine Art Laugarnestangi 70, tel: 553 2906 Saturday, August 20.: Akureyri Museum Hverfisgata 15, tel: 545 1400 - Wilhelm Sasnal, Bojan Sarcevic, On Kawara by Óskar Guðjónsson (sax), Snorri and Elke Krystufek. Skemmtihúsið Theatre Church: An evening of song, 20:30 Sigurðarson (trumpet), Ómar Guðjónsson Einar Jónsson Sculpture Museum Wed-Sun 11:00-17:00 The Saga of Guðríður Sunday, August 21.: Ketilhouse: Concert: (guitar) and Matthías M.D. Hemstock Tues-Sun14:00 - 17:00 http://www.hafnarborg.is Every Thursday at 20:00 and every Sunday at Sopran, violin & piano,16:00 http://www.skulptur.is Strandgata 34, tel: 555 0080 18:00; admission 2000 ISK. Ongoing exhibitons: (drums). Njarðargata, tel: 551 3797 Laufásvegur 22, tel: 552 4201 Hafnarfjörður Folk Museum Ketilhouse: Gudrun Palina Gudmundsdottir, FUGL – Reykjavík Project Space Weekends 13:00 – 17:00 The Living Art Museum � Portret & paintings Þóroddur Bjarnason – ORÐ to 31st of July. http://www.hafnarfjordur.is/byggdasafn Wed-Sun 13:00 - 17:00 Deiglan: Sigurdur Petur Hognason, oil on 14 AUGUST Mon–Fri 10:00–18:00, Sat 11:00–16:00 Vesturgata 5, tel: 565 5420 http://www.nylo.is canvas Árbæjarsafn http://fugl.is Laugavegur 26, tel: 551 4350 Akureyri Art Museum: Monsters, Icelandic Skólavörðustígur 10, tel: 695 4202 Hafnarhús - Reykjavík Art Museum � The Icelandic shepherd’s dog; an Train – Dieter Roth Volcano show: Red rock cinema contemporary art introduction and programme Gallery Fold Daily 10:00 -17:00 Part One at 15:00 & 20:00, Part Two at Café Karolina: Eirikur Arnar Magnusson, (this is not a joke). Mon-Fri 10:0-18:30, Thu 10:00-21:00, Sat http://www.listasafnreykjavikur.is 16:00 & 21:00 etching 10:00-18:00 Sun 13:00-17:00 Tryggvagata 17, tel: 590 1200 Hellusund 6a, tel: 845 9548 38

Úlpa from Hafnarfjörður have been around since late 1999 and have playing around with various styles and influences. Often have they come up with some great ideas but not always have they managed good enough songs from all of them. Their recent show demonstrated that their new material is straighter forward (in a good way) and more stripped down which suits them well.

Lights On The Highway consists of ex-members of bands like the extreme noise-core band Klink, Bisund, Solid I.V. and stoner-rock band Brain Police, but they sound nothing like those bands. Their sound world is more similar to the late Jeff Buckley, or, to some extent, a mellow acoustic Alice In Chains. It’s so hard not to hear the vocal harmonies of Layne Staley and Jerry Cantrell, which isn’t at all a bad thing, but not too original. Their sound is huge and this band is damn tight, but one still hopes they’ll move away from their influences.

The Heavycoats from Baltimore (Maryland, USA) were described as a softer and less gloomy Interpol and that pretty much says it all. This band consists of five twenty and thirty something guys clad in black and with stylised haircuts. The rocky walls of the gallery made the reverb guitars sound a little bit too thin, almost painfully thin. This band should throw away their Interpol records and focus more on their song-writing instead their hairstyles.

Grey Filastine from Seattle (Washington, USA) is a politically active disc jockey/musician who mixes together rhythms and sounds from hip-hop, electronica, dance hall, drum ‘n’ bass and experimental noise. He’s to some extent similar to a guy who calls himself DJ Rupture (who has, by the way, released almost every Filastine album). Grey has been around all South America and has recorded chants from countries like Cuba and more, and he samples them into his eccentric mix, which is really interesting. It’s a shame how few people witnessed this guy. Hopefully he’ll be back and maybe play a proper show in a darker place. ��������������������������������������������������������� ����������������������������������������������������������������������� ������������������������������������������������������������������ ������������������������������������������������

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FLÍS

There’s usually integrity to any release from 12 Tónar, Iceland’s independent record label that closely resembles Vottur America’s Nonesuch Records. The store and the local music scene always have a stake in one of their releases, and even the failures are compelling. And when 12 Tónar hits the right note, they can capture the local imagination. (Yes, they did that Mugison thing.) The new jazz album, Vottur, by Flís, is so strong and immensely likeable, that it should creepcreep into the loclocalal culturculturee soosoon.n. A rrespectableespectable thrthree-pieceee-piece incincludingluding DaDavíðvíð Þór Jónsson on piano, Valdimar Kolbeinn Sigurjónsson on bass, and Helgi Svarar Helgason on drums, the group here reinvents the Icelandic standards originally performed in the Lights on the Highway fifties by Haukur Morthens. The blend of moody ballad with classical touches and lyric Self-titled. jazz takes on the endearing gothic tone that Tim Burton might ask for were he to direct a movie of A Charlie Brown Christmas. The discovery here, which may have more magnitude than Mugison, is that music existed in Iceland before rock, and it may have been very very good. Kudos must go out to the recording engineers, and Mr. Sigurjónsson on bass. The tone of the lows throughout this album are extraordinary. There’s a lot of layered acoustic guitar here, and a lot of layered vocals. Vocal effects and outstanding fill-heavy drumming also figure in prominently. The total of the parts sounds much like 90s Seattle band Alice in Chains, though instead of Layne Staley’s drug addiction focus, Lights present more palatable relationship fare. While it may not be especially innovative, this Nix Noltes record is extremely melodic, and using the tools of Alice and OrkidpurOrkidpur HaHawaiiwaii Chains in more poppy material seems like a good idea. Björk Music from Matthew Barney’s Drawing WeWe gotgot an earlyearly rrevieweview copy of the debut rreleaseelease frfromom a Restraint 9 favourite live band the Nix Noltes. As best we can gather, Nix Noltes deliver frenetic Balkan music that mixes the ABBA song structure prevalent in fiddle music from around the world with unique time signatures. Live, this music is extraordinary. And this album replicates a live experience as best as we’ve ever With this new release, we get the dubious proposition of heard. The slight trick is that if you’re not dancing, the song Original Music from attempting to understand both Björk and Matthew Barney, structure can be a little draining. the film Screaming wonder artist behind the Cremaster Cycle. What we can report Masterpiece is that Matthew Barney and Björk work well together on the tracks they wrote together—both touch on root instincts and emotions, using surprisingly adept and modern tools. The advantage the listener has in this CD is a more straightforward narrative drive. The vocals on this album are outstanding, Many visitors and fans of Iceland enjoy the film Screaming especially an early Will Oldham track that draws a great deal Masterpiece, by Ari Alexander Magnússon. The film features of inspiration from Captain Beefheart. Most surprising, Björk’s the best and brightest of Iceland’s “Cute Generation”, and voice only shows up on two tracks. Without her superstar voice, some of our staff were so repulsed by it that we ran a feature the mood and feel of her compositions is allowed to come discussing how many things had to go wrong in the world through, and it survives very well. An extremely evocative disk. before this film came out. To Mr. Magnússon’s credit, he Dr. Spock documented a great number of extraordinary musicians, among them Björk, Mugison, Sigur Rós, Bang Gang and Dr. Phil Apparat Organ Quartet. He also found the exact theme that All music featured in this unites them... or the flaw. While all of these musicians can be section and plenty more is appreciated on their own, together, on one disk, they became intolerable. So much cutey cute, so much sugar, and you begin available at the Grapevine Info. Explaining why he enjoys Icelandic staple Dr. Spock, who to hate the whole lot of them. If you are a fan of any of the are releasing their first CD after having played live around bands on this disk, avoid at all costs. Reykjavík for anywhere between a decade and four years, depending on the source, a fan said: “They have the lyric ‘I like pussy and pussy likes me.’” That’s a good one. The music, well-produced punk with virtuoso rhythm section, is similar to a band we have recommended, RASS—who share a couple members and the same label. But where RASS captured Open from 12 - 22 our imagination with their punk lyrics and style, Dr. Spock on Laugavegur 11 see centerfold for location annoys the crap out of us. 41 t.A.T.u: Good Music, Sleazy Origins

Invented pop groups – bands The sensationalism and formed by managers more concerned downright sleaziness, made for great with marketing than talent – have copy, and drew the ire of the British been with us since the Monkees first press in particular. The March oozed forth onto America’s airwaves. 2003 issue of Q magazine printed Malcolm McLaren claimed to have a scathing portrait of the band created a punk version of such with – wherein two grown men called two the Sex Pistols. Even Iceland has it’s 18-year-old girls “cunts” – as well own version, in the form of Nýlon. as the band’s manager, who belched Singers and groups created forth the comment, “Society needs to primarily for marketability have be protected from people who want become so commonplace that we to protect society from t.A.T.u.” hardly bat an eyelash when another one comes rattling off the assembly The gimmick worked to a large line, unless they bear some sort of extent. Sexually confused teenagers gimmick that grabs our attention. and closet pedophiles the world over This is precisely what Ivan embraced them, albeit for drastically Shapovalov had in mind when he different reasons. In the hubbub, created the Russian pseudo-lesbian what few parties noticed was that the singing duo t.A.T.u. in 1999. music the band put out was actually Within the span of barely four decent. years, t.A.T.u. - comprised of singers What sets t.A.T.u. apart from the Lena Katina and Yulia Volkova Monkees, Nýlon and the Sex Pistols of their songs is twofold. As a Nonetheless, there’s one basic clean conscience. For best results, I - managed two hits from their is that Katina and Volkova actually native-born English speaker, I problem: how does one enjoy recommend listening to the songs sole album to date, 200 km/h in possess talent. In the review section, not-so-grudgingly admit that t.A.T.u.’s music without financing a on Windows Media Player, with the the Wrong Lane - the teen angst Q magazine gave their album three Russian sounds better than English, sleazy Svengali? Unfortunately, the graphic equalizer set on “Dance,” anthems All the Things She Said out of five stars, stating in part, especially when sung. Don’t even only viable way involves depriving and the visualizer set on “Battery: I and Not Gonna Get Us - in addition “the mechanical rock and lascivious try to write me and dispute this. the band itself of funds as well. see the truth.” to an ill-received cover version of the pianos come not just with sugar- You simply won’t convince me that Visit t.A.T.u’s Russian website In 2004, t.A.T.u. split from Smiths’ classic, How Soon Is Now? coated pop, but industrial strength, “love” sounds nicer than “ljubov.” – www.tatu.ru - and click on Shapovalov and the image he Shapovalov was pretty turmoil and alienation.” For my part, Secondly, Russians are suckers for “Downloads” (one of the few created for them. According to the straightforward about his vision for I’ve listened to the Russian version wordplay and double entendres. portions of the site in English). official website, their new album the band, telling Blender magazine, of their album and I believe the Take for example the song, “Prostie There, you can download all of – Dangerous and Moving – is due “At first, the idea was just underage songs are tightly composed, featuring Dvizhenia” (“simple movements”) – their songs, both in Russian and for international release this October sex. Every time, the audience needs the signature minor scale that in English, the song is overtly about English, numerous videos, and even from Interscope Records. Here’s new images—for this project, new Russians love so dearly, and push the masturbation, whereas in Russian, a feature-length documentary of the hoping Volkova and Katina will images were lesbian teenagers.” normally light mood of pop music the main verse roughly translates band, all free of charge for now. The eventually be able to shake the creepy All the while, Katina and Volkova into unsettling, nearly explosive as, “Without you, I just keep going diehard fan will find rare videos and spectre Shapovalov foisted upon remained vague and non-committal emotional territory – a soundtrack through simple movements,” which artwork, including a bizarre video them, and let the music speak for to the image Shapovalov had that goes very well with posting the in Russian can mean going through montage featuring Russian President itself on their new album. created for them, stating in repeated daily news. the motions of day-to-day life Vladimir Putin, and those sceptical Paul F Nikolov interviews that they “just love each The biggest reason why I put despite the absence of a lover or but curious can hear for themselves other.” emphasis on the Russian versions “rubbing one out”. what the band has to offer with a 42

LIVE MUSIC REVIEWS Gúndi

SNOOP DOGG

SNOOP DOGG, HÆSTA HENDIN, HJÁLMAR, FORGOTTEN LORES EGILSHÖLL STADIUM, JULY 17

Charlie Strand Snoop Dogg delighted to hear his name chanted. Over and over.

PIMP MY COUNTRY Despite being probably the world’s expanding their normal line-up to second best-known rapper (after include a brass section. That gesture Eminem), Snoop Dogg still saw was nice, adding a lot of flavour reason to end his European tour to Hjálmar’s sometimes risk-free with a quick stop in Iceland. The approach to reggae. I’ll admit I’m mainly sub-16-year-old crowd came not a huge fan of Hjálmar but it’s a bit as a surprise when I entered the hard to deny they’re very talented ridiculously large Egilshöll stadium. performers and fun to watch, I felt overdressed as insanely short especially because of the bass player’s skirts sitting on bodies yet to grow intimate and bodily relationship with hips appeared to be the norm. the music, displayed in a tribal-like Once I’d set my worries about dance. But the sound didn’t pick up, how I was dressed aside, I waited for and Hjálmar actually ran through a the show to start. And then I waited whole God damn song without the a bit more. And when a full hour had lead singer ever being heard. Can it passed Icelandic rap group Forgotten be that the mixer-man simply didn’t Lores came on stage. Widely considered one of Iceland’s best, they at least proved to be an ambitious group, supported by a lot of instrumentalists including a trombone player. Visibly enjoying themselves, FL jumped around the stage in true hip-hop fashion and ran through a number of decent songs. Between songs they acted out short skits that unfortunately reminded me of Skrekkur, Reykjavík’s secondary school talent competition. This was countered by original and strong grooves and impressive word- play from rapper Birkir. However, the sound did “Alright, who threw that 40?” FL no justice, the added trombone was never heard, the grasp the fact that for one song keyboards drowned in too much bass organ-player Siggi sang, instead of and there was no way of following guitarist Kiddi? Why didn’t someone FL’s rhymes a long way as they rush on stage and replace the faulty tended to give way to the drumming. microphone, if that was the case? Bad sound actually turned out to be Why did Hjálmar have to fall victim the main theme of the night. to such a horrendous sound system? Icelandic reggae-kings Hjálmar Why did the audience have to put up were next on stage. Much like with this shit? Forgotten Lores they put some extra Rap group Hæsta hendin were effort into their show that night, the last of the supporting acts 43 Charlie Strand

No, sweetie. No, no, no. to perform. Having the dubious was coming on stage when what honour of putting out an album appeared to be a full-length feature with one of the ugliest covers ever film started rolling on the large printed, Hæsta hendin are much screens on both sides of the stage. more traditional than their peers in It had 80s B-film style credits and Forgotten Lores. No instruments cheesy G-funk grooves. It started - only a DJ and two MCs, although out like a mysterious crime flick but they did have guest rappers on it didn’t take long to morph into a stage during every single song. lesbian-soft-porn movie, with tittie Erpur Eyvindarson aka Blazroca or licking and all. As I said previously Johnny Naz, formerly of Iceland’s the crowd was mainly comprised of most popular hip hop band XXX kids barely 16 years old, and some Rottweilerhundar, who opened last of the younger attendants were there year for 50 Cent, is one of Hæsta with their parents. I can’t imagine hendin’s two MCs - and it says a what went through a parent’s mind lot about the sound that night that when it turned out Snoop wasn’t just he was not heard once during their a rapper but a porn enthusiast, too, whole set. It also says a whole bunch and not afraid to display that side of Snoop Dogg dressed in the world’s largest “doo rag.” that the playback actually sounded him in concert. like it was coming from a pretty poor The porno movie soon gave way pair of PC speakers. The sound was to a performance of Murder was But Doggystyle is one great quite fond of them...) or if he’s just one thing: It is insulting to an muddy, thin, ill-balanced and utterly the Case from 1993’s Doggystyle. album. Actually, it’s my favourite getting people to think about the audience that has paid 4900 ISK disgusting in every way imaginable. Half of the songs turned out to be hip hop album of all time. I find world’s current status as all great art (approximately $70 or 60 euros) But Hæsta hendin played on. As an off that album, including What’s my Dr. Dre’s (well, actually George should do, but he’s an egotistical for their ticket to have the sound as indication of the quality of their set, Name and Gin and Juice. The sound Clinton’s) grooves irresistible and maniac – that much is clear. horrible as it was during this concert. its high-point was a medley of XXX hadn’t picked up - so nothing besides Snoop’s smooth delivery is one of a Snoop Dogg played for 90 Throughout the whole show - that’s Rottweilerhundar songs performed Snoop himself, bass, drums and the kind. And this strong set of songs minutes and I’m positive he used four bands - the sound was always by the reunited members of the occasional keyboard could be heard managed to save the concert from at least 45 minutes for having the ridiculous. I don’t know how the now-retired band. An insider told from the ten-strong Snoopadelics. being a catastrophe. Of course, the crowd shout “we love you Snoop”, consumer laws are on this kind of me Hæsta hendin were commanded This was really sad, because I’m sure contents of the lyrics are debatable, chant “Sha-na-na-na Snoop Dogg” stuff - but there should be laws, and by Snoop’s crew (scary body-builder the backing vocals and grooves were and there was actually some intense and regularly asking “what’s my they should ensure that half of the guys) to cut the set short when they a lot more interesting than Snoop’s debate going on in Iceland a few motherfucking name?” It was fun for people that bought tickets for Snoop still had more than ten minutes to soulless performance of 12-year-old days before the concert, where a while, but when he said “say it like Dogg will get at least half of the go and that would explain the chaos songs. There I said it; Snoop was rappers and feminists got to argue you mean it” and expecting a “we price refunded. that characterized the latter half of a terrible performer. And he was in front of a camera without any love you Snoop” for the tenth time their set. wearing the most distasteful clothes results or conclusions - only sparking in a row it wasn’t all that exciting I’ve ever seen, not because they were small talk on who “had won”. I don’t anymore. It was now time for Snoopy. obscene or anything; just so fucking know whether Snoop hates women When I left Egilshöll stadium He made it perfectly clear that he ugly you wouldn’t believe it. (according to his videos he’s actually I couldn’t help but think only By Atli Bollason 44

WEDNESDAY AUGUST 10 Concert: Prince tribute LISTINGS Gaukur á Stöng Hip-hop night. Pravda Club

Music and nightlife events usually THURSDAY start around 21:00, unless otherwise AUGUST 11 stated. Pubs close at 01.00 on weekdays and much, much later on Concert: Prince tribute. Gaukur á Stöng weekends. For those just wanting Concert: Snakebird. to party, the pubs and clubs don´t Café Cultura get crowded until after midnight on Djs Tommi White and Andrés. Sólon weekends, although Thursday is a Live jazz. Kaplakriki, August 13th semi-official night out. Pravda Club Rock concert: Dýrðin and 5ta herdeildin. ALICE COOPER Grand Rokk Troubador Hermann. Nothing rocks more than watching Hressó a senior citizen with turkey jowels FRIDAY and black eye makeup in his crow’s AUGUST 5 FRIDAY feet singing, “School’s out forever!” Concert: Andrúm followed by DJ Palli from AUGUST 12 Seriously though, without Alice Maus. Cooper there would be no Marilyn Bar 11 Band Ég (I) plays. Cute-festival: Mice Parade, múm, Hudson Grand Rokk Manson, Korn, Slipknot, and a ton Snæfellsnes, August 5th-7th Wayne, Kimono, Skátar, Benni Hemm Concert: Bacon followed by DJ Gulli from of other bands that were teenagers Hemm and more. Admission is 3900 ISK, Ósóma. KRÚTT FESTIVAL and that includes camping. Sæmundur at Bar 11 around the time that Alice Cooper BSÍ is offering special deals on busses. cameoed in Wayne’s World. He Means “Cute Festival”, and features cute bands that play cute might be more grateful if you threw harmless music for cute audiences. The most famous cute bands to come inhalers onstage than your knickers, out of Iceland are Sigurrós and Múm, and although they’re not playing this festival you needn’t worry. Bands such as Benni Hemm Hemm, mind you. Yeah. Welcome to my nightmare. Kimono, Skátar and Hudson Wayne are headlining, movies will be screened, art exhibitions opened, and much more. Best of all, the festival will Concert: Númer núll followed by DJ Matti. take place outside the city - only a couple of hours drive away – the band play Bar 11 DJ Gulli from Ósóma. outside and tickets are only 3.900. Tickets are available at BSI bus terminal. Café 22 Djs Atli skemmtanalögga and Áki Pain. Bring a tent. Pravda Club Djs Þröstur 3000 and Brynjar Már. Sólon Grapevine Bad Taste: Sigurlaug Gísladóttir Big Band, 15:00. Sirkus Reggae: Hjálmar at 11 pm. Admission 500 ISK. Nasa Rock: Singapore Sling. Grand Rokk Tryggvi troubador. Hressó TUESDAY AUGUST 16 NASA, 16-17th August Sonic Youth w/ Band of Brides. Admission 4500 ISK. SONIC YOUTH Nasa Name any indie band to hit the ground running after 1990, and I, the all- knowing picker, will personally guarantee you that they cite Sonic Youth as WEDNESDAY an influence. These guys (and girl) made noise an artform and made lyrics AUGUST 17 poetry long before teenagers scribbled Nirvana lyrics on their binders, and Hip-hop night. they continue to surprise and delight their fans. Come see where it all started. Pravda Club Sonic Youth w/ Curver. Admission 4500 ISK. Lýsuhóll, Snæfellsnes Cover-band Trio. Nasa DJ Bjössi from Mínus. Hressó The Doors tribute band at 9 pm. Admission Café 22 DJ Bjössi from Mínus. 1500 ISK. Djs Þröstur 3000 and Brynjar Már. Café 22 Gaukur á Stöng Sólon Djs Atli skemmtanalögga and Áki pain. Gay-pride ball. Pravda Club Pravda Club Djs Þröstur 3000 and Brynjar Már. THURSDAY Grapevine Bad Taste: Steintryggur at Sólon 17:00. Grapevine Bad Taste: Palindrome, 17:00. AUGUST 18 Smekkleysa plötubúð Smekkleysa plötubúð Hera celebrates new CD with a concert. Rock: Dimma, Sign, Dead Sea Apple and Jazz singer Hattie StJohn, 22:00. Nasa Noise. Hotel Nordica Cover-band Mát. Troubador: Atli & Leifur at 10 pm, then DJ Gaukur á Stöng Heiðar Austmann. Hressó Hressó Djs Tommi White and Andrés. NASA, August 13th Troubadors Atli and Leifur. SATURDAY Sólon Hressó Grapevine Bad Taste: Jakobínarína. HJÁLMAR AUGUST 13 Bar 11 Live jazz. Iceland’s only half Swedish band reggae band are known for putting on SATURDAY Alice Cooper. Pravda Club extremely enjoyable live shows. For those tired of Hjálmar’s old songs, Kaplakriki sports hall Lokbrá. AUGUST 6 Grand Rokk they will be playing a lot of new songs from forthcoming album. For those The Doors tribute band at 9 pm. Admission unfamiliar with the band, go see them regardless of what songs they play: Cover-band Vax. 1500 ISK. Hressó Gaukur á Stöng they are one of the best live bands in Iceland. They’ve got the groove. Cute-festival. Lýsuhóll, Snæfellsnes DJ Palli from Maus. Café 22 Djs Atli skemmtanalögga and Áki pain. Pravda Club Djs Silja and Steinunn. Café Cultura Djs Þröstur 3000 and Brynjar Már. Sólon Gay Pride festivities at 11 pm: DJ Páll Óskar. Admission 1000 ISK Nasa Grapevine Bad Taste: Helgi Valur. Sirkus Hawaiian night. Gaukur á Stöng Hip-hop: Forgotten Lores. Stúdentakjallarinn Rock-concert: Jan Mayen and Weapons. DJ Krummi from Mínus afterwards. Bar 11 SUNDAY Bar 11, August 18th AUGUST 7 JAKOBÍNARÍNA Jakobínarína won this years Battle of Cute-festival. the Bands (Icelandic young band’s Lýsuhóll, Snæfellsnes cometition) and are 15-year olds. If current music heavyweights and TUESDAY former BOTB winners Dáðadrengir AUGUST 9 set a trend, we can expect great things from these guys, whose sound Rock: Nilfisk. Gaukur á Stöng has been described as “like BritPop when it was still good and fun.” 45

Cabaret at the Icelandic Opera

The famous musical comes to life with all of course the notorious Kit-Kat club and its However the first open rehearsal of the control-freakish MC seemed to be haunted by necessary glamour and decay. Based on the gender-bending party-crowd is present as well musical lacked a lot of energy. The famous Tourette’s syndrome but was much more fun Berlin tales of Christopher Isherwood it tells with the MC (Magnús Jónsson) in charge, Cabaret songs, especially those performed after the break when his devilish side was more a story of an American writer who arrives in they sing and dance and set the background by Þórunn Lárusdóttir, were great; she is a visible. The five singing/dancing/provoking Berlin in 1932 and gets caught up in a love of the musical. Of course, all this offers a lot talented singer and gave a great performance, girls were charming in an odd way. affair and the political changes in Germany. of drama, emotionally bursting into cabaret but she could not hold up the whole show One must hope that the artists will surely The writer (Felix Bergsson) finds himself singing, crying, laughing and basic fun. The by herself. The other actors seemed to be boost up their performance before the premier. falling in love with the party girl and night music is classic as is the production in general; saving themselves, in the songs you could see club-singer Sally Bowles (Þórunn Lárusdóttir), director Kolbrún Halldórsdóttir walks down a the potentials of their performance but the and parallel to their struggle is the story of familiar path with her emphasis in this project. tempo was too slow. The elderly couple really an elderly couple, the Jewish Herr Schultz Some extreme situations are a bit melodramatic slowed things down and their relationship – a (Borgar Garðarsson ) and the independent but that is something you can always expect in romantic one in a highly dramatic situation- By Kristrún Hauksdóttir Fraulein Schneider (Edda Þórarinsdóttir). And musical theatre. didn’t capture my attention as acted. The 46

Movie Reviews

Alex the Lion will eat you, but his instincts are to blame. Come On, People. How Deep Do Your Cartoons Have to Be? MADAGASCAR Okay, Madagascar came to Iceland late, pique the young one’s interest by telling Party (1968). so we had already heard earfuls of “it’s too him that courtesy of the BBC, you can superficial” and “just a bunch of CGI” watch fossae eat lemurs online, or you can One reason for strongly before the movie got here. This is how it watch fossae have screaming wild fossae recommending Madagascar comes from goes with Dreamworks movies, viewed sex. (We found archives of both at www. our perusal of Screen It! (www.screenit. as the slow cousin of Pixar, producers of arkive.org.) com) a website dedicated to providing The Incredibles, Toy Story and Finding Have we sold you on the intelligence information for concerned parents, (with Nemo. thing? No? Well how about the other sponsorship from Zoloft and Propel Lucky for us, those who import aspect that Dreamworks does right: they Fitness Water). Screen It! warns parents movies to Iceland seem to only take on keep their references entirely in the low of “Disrespectful/ Bad Attitude” in the movies that get abysmal reviews: yes, last brow—a possible exception was a Tom film: “Alex [the lion] develops a bad summer we got Punisher, Cat Woman Wolfe reference in Madagascar. But attitude toward Marty [the Zebra] and and Alexander on as many screens as that was evened out by the context. Two the others when they don’t follow his possible. monkeys escape the zoo, and they discuss idea… He also tries to eat Marty, but But Madagascar has been done seeing Tom Wolfe do a reading. The that’s more out of nearly uncontrollable wrong, just as Ice Age, and Shark Tale one monkey, interpreting the other’s sign instincts/ urges rather than purposeful were done wrong before that. First, let’s language, says, “Are we going to throw malevolence.” The website also warns of take the intelligence of a film named poop at him? Of course.” Sheer comic 20 acts of violence, which qualifies it for a Madagascar. True, the film’s writers brilliance. “moderate” rating. act on the unusual assumption that The favourite low brow reference And of course the biggest reason for Madagascar, a country of 15 million includes Saturday morning cartoons-- recommending Madagascar is really the with a remarkable archaeological history Hanna Barbera’s Help! It’s the Hair Bear use of poop jokes. There are two of them going back 2000 years, is uninhabited by Hour -- is all over Madagascar’s opening in the film, and we are proud to state humans. But on the bright side, they get half hour, just as Shark Tale owed a lot to that we have just progressed in emotional this key point: they identify that there is that the high point of Saturday morning maturity to Freud’s anal stage. a place called Madagascar, that it is an cartoons, Jabberjaw. And kudos go to By Bart Cameron island, and that it contains lemurs and Sacha Baron Cohen (Ali G). Playing fossae—the amazing localized fauna that a party-animal king of the lemurs, prove so useful in an evolution discussion. Mr. Cohen pulls a direct imitation of Getting a child to talk about lemurs is a Peter Sellers’ vilest, and funniest, comic step in the right direction. Along those moment—his role as Indian stereotype lines, if the child is a little older, you Hrundi V. Bakshi in Blake Edward’s The 47

BOOK REVIEWS Shelved Books Worth a Second Look By Bart Cameron

Páll Ásgeir Ásgeirsson. “Driving routes, hiking trails and Marshall Brement. justify a purchase. Brement, a much- Adventure in Iceland. stopping places in the highland [sic] Three Modern Icelandic loved ambassador from the US, was (2005) of Iceland.” Poets: Steinn Steinarr, not a poet himself, but his tranlations From the cover on you get an Jón Úr Vör and Matthías are modest—which works especially interesting dynamic: the book is Johannessen. (1985) well with the bold but understated full of essential information that Icelandic master Steinn Steinnarr, you really can’t get anywhere else maybe the Tomas Tranströmer of if you’re an English-speaker. Want Iceland. A translation of Time and to know how to get to the large hot the Water displays some of the effect springs in the highlands, all there. of Steinarr’s voice: What about basic advice: translations The sun, of all the signs, suggestions on how The sun was with me, to find good work roads (if you like a thin woman, see powerlines, there is usually a in yellow shoes. workroad underneath that you can follow), and back history. The care, At twenty fathoms dedication, and sheer knowledge my belief and love slept catalogued in Mr. Ásgeirsson’s book like a two-colored flower. should be commended. For me, as more of a hiker than And the sun walked a driver, this book was especially over the unsuspecting flower helpful, as it allowed for pleasant in yellow shoes. The curiously dated front cover reading at night, after the hikes. looking like something from a 1980s Eccentricities like the design, photo Translations of Vör and Johannessen bowling alley, and an odd title are layout, and some of the purple prose An inexpensive and relatively brief are good to have, but may not be misnomers. Look at the small print inside, somehow make the book a hardcover, the translations of the as attractive to a contemporary and you’ll see this book includes more interesting keepsake. works of Steinn Steinnarr alone audience.

TECHNOLOGY REVIEW

Things to Fear By Bart Cameron

Laptop entertainment centres. Apple always understood it, but now HP and Toshiba have caught up, and you can watch TV and rip DVDs—actually, you can produce Titanic—on your lap. Which is nice. Now you can go on a plane and say “Hey, look at my lap, I’m making Titanic in my lap.” The over-the-top new-to-Iceland Qosmio by Toshiba has so many gigahertz, you can make Titanic 04 and Wonder Boys at once. Good for minutes of look-

03 02 01

The Podcast. Steve Jobs of Apple has released his five-hundredth society-altering idea and copyright. Bearing the catchy name Podcast, the new broadcasting option allows senders to listen to poorly produced radio programming. At present, this is the Jaws Unleashed. Picture this: a sunny most over-hyped piece of useless technology day, a beautiful yacht, a scuba diver, then Ray Guns. Duh. Of course you should since the MP3... just before the MP3 took the blood-curdling scream. Okay, you’re fear ray guns. In July, New Scientist off and found an audience and completely used to the shark attack idea. But Universal Magazine reported that a 95 GHz transformed the world. Entertainment and Majesco have put microwave ray gun was being tested in New together a new video game that allows you to Mexico. In fact, according to Reuters, the BE THE SHARK. Yes, as the shark you eat Active Denial System, a massive ray gun, and maim divers, swimmers, etc. The most is set for deployment in Iraq in 2006 where depressing realization: absolutely everyone it will be considered a “less lethal” weapon. I’ve told about this video game wants to own What is “less lethal”: the machine apparently it. One friend declared he now wants to buy is aimed into rioting crowds and causes a TV and a Playstation just so that he could “heating and intolerable pain” in less than experience this game. five seconds. 48

The Violent

Sassy colours Outburst of and war images. What’s Graphic Design not to love?

Liberal economist Thorvaldur to the new visuality may be found in aspects of Nazism reached much graphic designers themselves, who a slight grin on their faces. Because Gylfason recently mentioned that Nazism, which can, quite cynically, further than propaganda, and can generally look in awe at the immense they know. They might not brag once upon a time, and until quite be seen as strictly centred on graphic be interpreted as its aim: people and coherence and sophistication of the about it, but they know it’s their late, history had been saturated with design: to make humanity stylistically their habitat were supposed to fit an work of Leni Riefenstahl and her world now. politics. Yes, from his words one coherent. overall design concept. coworkers. The principles of Nazi One pseudo-scientific way to could gather that history had once Of course, bringing Nazism up Adolf Hitler was stopped, as aesthetics are more easily applied check that statement is the Google even been political history, pure and in any context is usually a rhetorical no graphic designer should be that to Iceland than many other places, test. “Grafískur hönnuður”, Icelandic simple, whereas this would no longer suicide. So this should be clarified powerful – and he was probably and its influences can be found, for “graphic designer” gives around be the case. What history consists and qualified a bit: things have caught in an incoherent thought quite clearly in many places. For 16,000 result pages. “Ljóðskáld” – of today, he did not mention, been made to look this way or anyway: the main conclusion of the example in advertisements for poet – gives 850. That’s 20 mentions but certainly graphic design is a that way for a long time, for many 20th century might be that you don’t Icelandic museums that collectively of graphic designers for every prominent candidate. One might different reasons, aesthetic or need to make the world fit an image, invite visitors to realize the origins poet. “Myndlistarmaður” – visual even risk declaring the precise point pragmatic. But it was only after the you can simply ignore the world of Icelanders – showing blonde artist – gives 3,600. “Blaðamaður” where it, not so secretly, took over. birth of the photocamera, and the and make an image fit the image. samples of, apparently half-naked – journalist – does come close to At the beginning of the 20th subsequent birth of cinema, that Subsequently, reality has now left the natives, in sharp, sophisticated full- the designers with 15,400, but even century visuality entered a new era propaganda on the scale of Nazi planet and landed in Photoshopland, page profiles. (Subsequently, foreign “Stjórnmálamaður” – politician – is with the arrival of the camera. In a Germany became possible. And possibly declaring the only actual visitors have been known to call the far behind, at 4,170. “Nakin kona” civilization founded on texts, where Nazi Germany is not merely the winner of the wars of the 20th museum tour the Eugenics Tour.) – naked woman, only receives 194 the rule of law has been the rule most infamous manipulator of those century: the poster. The designers. They are no pages. I guess the outcome might be of the word, the arrival of direct recent visual powers, but the first to popstars, usually they are rather somewhat different in English, but visual testimony to the universe and employ visuals so fully for conscious Graphic designers rule timid or shy creatures, often as I want to keep my bias, I refuse habitat of humans was loud, even mobilization and manipulation of The influence of Nazi aesthetics handsome, well-dressed or in any to check. On Icelandic webpages, violent. The most violent response people. What is more, the visual on graphic design is no secret to case stylistically conscious – but with graphic designers are 800 times more 49

Find the arrow and The rebus is a dying art win ... absolutely form. Thankfully. nothing popular than naked women. over again, but make it seem “fresh” Behind our reading, our shopping not merely on exchange values, but those spiky designers, there would be So they are all around. Obviously, “inviting”, “cool” and even “true”, by and film-going we hear the circus on something subjectively valuable little to speak of here. The problem all in all, even if their omnipresence hiring the correct creative team and drum roll … and it just keeps on to those who establish it – the reader with problems is that often their may at times irritate those who feeding them enough energy drinks. rolling. can find himself taken by surprise. only solution seems to lie within claim to put substance above surface, You can actually publish tons of Not that no one has anything to Joy and wonder. As if she actually themselves. That is: there seem graphic designers are not Nazis, and them. say. Among the spinning wheels of has something in her hands. to be few ways to actually tackle ours are not straightforward fascist Why would someone do that? the economy, you will find quite a Of course, such occurrences do the mindless flow of aesthetically times. Far from it. Graphic design Why would someone publish a lot of wheels putting in a bit of extra not really affect the totality of the pleasing bullshit around us, with may be just as powerful as it was magazine and fill it with text if he effort, doing a bit more than is asked publishing industry, which marches any other weaponry than its own. in the 1930s, even more so, but its or she has got nothing valuable or of them, for their own sheer pleasure on regardless: whether or not you And so some graphic designers have powers are used differently now than interesting to say? … you might even find most souls have anything to put on paper, the started seeing themselves as part of then. How then? The key concept to understand hanging on to a meaningful existence paper will be printed, there will be a problem, and hope to be part of its As every other entity in today’s that might be that of exchange by doing more – the excess, that words on it, it will all look quite solution – they have started acting neoliberal universe, graphic designers value. It was Karl Marx who first extra little doodle on the page, neat, and it will be read. against what they seemed doomed are a headless army. There is no pointed out how the ‘real value’ of the subtle colour coordination, to be part and parcel of, and use central committee of market- phenomena would potentially be the subversive break in that colour Potential their visual powers for subversive oriented stylistics that controls swallowed up by their ‘exchange’ coordination, or even the words All right. So there you are with acts. Some examples of their work what will be cool next season. And value, under a capitalist system. on the page, may originate in the this magazine in your hands and are published with this article, other the phrase itself, ‘cool’ along with We have reached the point, a while simple aesthetic will, political aim or you’re wondering if this particular brilliant material can be found on: its synonyms, would seem to defy ago already, where the idea of ‘real creative joy of the person behind it. article would be worth reading if politicalgraphics.org and adbusters. centralization. ‘Cool’ is the adjective value’ started sounding like so much When a whole publication is you would subtract from it all the org. For example. of youth, a cultural phenomenon metaphysical nonsense. Economists founded on an idea other than rather nifty design tricks added to that more or less dates back to the don’t believe in it. ‘How much is it?’ simply making money and creating it before printing. Of course, in this end of WWII, applied by those they ask and grin. an aura – that is, when it is founded particular case, no – for without By Haukur Már Helgason people old enough to have money The wheels of the economy but young enough to have little or expect there to be a certain amount no inescapable social duties, such of printed material each day, to catch as attending children. At the same readers’ interests, upon which brands time, ‘cool’ is the leading adjective can be loaded, to keep their place in category of graphic design, going the market. hand in hand with youth: having money, being loud, but defying And the drum keeps on rolling … duties. And they do make a lovely German philosopher Theodor couple, youth and design, making Adorno and his companion, Max the world look like a lovely – and Horkheimer, coined the phrase cool – place. ‘culture industry’ in the 1950s. Their Since most of contemporary main concern was the state and graphic design is not aimed at direction of culture in the world of establishing the Third Reich, what exchange-values, that is: culture as is it there for? First of all, of course, commodity. Adorno described this graphic design is supposed to make state, with an analogy of the circus, you want things, or at least not run or variety-acts: away from them. They are oil to “What really constitutes the make the machinery of the economy variety act, the thing which strikes run smoothly. In doing this, graphic any child the first time he sees such a designers and creative teams must performance, is the fact that on each strike a balance between familiarity occasion something happens and and the sense of safety; the sense nothing happens at the same time. of belonging, on the one hand, and Every variety act, especially that of surprise or freshness on the other the clown and the juggler, is really a – the establishment and repetition of kind of expectation. It subsequently themes is needed to create a brand, transpires that waiting for the thing at the same time, care must be taken in question, which takes place as that the audience/consumer does long as the juggler manages to keep not become bored, that the ad is not the balls going, is precisely the thing absolutely predictable. Which is how itself. In variety the applause always a stylistic history evolves. comes a fraction too late, namely Graphic designers are, all in all, when the viewer perceives that amazingly sensitive to new trends what was initially imagined to be a and where the world might be preparation for something else was headed. In the wake of the Iraq just the event of which he has been invasion, for example, Apple’s cheated as it were. … Thus variety design team decided to switch from already represented the magical their operating system’s innocent repetition of the industrial procedure and subtle ‘aqua’ look to the more in which the selfsame is reproduced masculine, harder, stainless steel through time – the very allegory of look of recent versions. The world high capitalism which demonstrates militarized, and so did Apple its dominating character even as computers. A bit. it appropriates its necessity as the And as the graphic designers get freedom of play.” more apt at reflecting the state of the human spirit, less and less seems to Which would basically be the way be asked from words on page. Such graphic design makes shopping feel is the power of graphic design that like a game, and dresses the carriers you can actually publish magazines of advertisements and upcoming that say the same thing over and trends, as free, democratic discourse. the seagulls in such a state. On this the seagulls in such a state. an inexperienced I brought trip, hiker and realized deal a good that heart than your canmore get broken climbif you an eight-foot waterfall in a cave precautions. without proper out fine: all worked As it happened, my friend to see dying got seagulls but she was and various carcasses, near death by her own not amused She suggested that I experiences. the exact location not recommend unless I wanted to beginner hikers, deaths on agonizing their miserable, my hands. we the cave of death, Following sedan up Toyota small a 1989 drove The the Snæfellsnes glacial road. glacier was large and icy and many the walking around people were base of it attempting to imbibe the spiritual essence of it. Imbibing the spiritual essence of the mystic Snæfellsnes glacier which goes involves chant, a special Yes, walk there? “Can you like this: But it said deep chasms. I think so. Look, this protected. isn’t And Does anybody rent snowmobiles. This is them? Maybe if we wait… really ancient.” This is really ancient is the deep that indicates havemoment you found a deeper state of being or that the back to go down ready are you hill and use the toilet. If you are interested, you can you interested, are If you The death hike is a short up trek hike up this crevice, though it hike up this crevice, advanced climbing some requires to climband understanding of how with the aid of a rope—which noble sportsmansome has fastened canso that countless many view On an death of seagulls. the slow I travelled with a group earlier trip, including a of experienced hikers, who had his Norwegian teenager, watching by heartcompletelybroken as quickly campaign as healthy contributions clear the heads of the world, elected officials around To and suddenly I am right as rain. further clear my head and brighten I take my friend a on my mood, death hike. located a creek just off of highway 54 between Búðir and Arnarstapi. which I can’t a specific location, At I’llname for reasons later, present a crevice forms in a mountainside. This crevice attracts large masses of who seem to thoroughly seagulls, updraft the enjoy against the cliff. in point, at one The problem: is a there the back of this crevice, place for the seagulls to land where If the is no wind whatsoever. there they cannot fly, seagulls land there, waterfall descend a and they must This being to get out of the crevice. they tend to against their nature, starve each to death or consume other. small ice age by the end of the day. out of coming But then, most Borgarnes Iceland’s onto conventionally beautiful stretch I am in fullof highway sunlight, the glacier by the distracted from and local mountains and waterfalls, a massive crater that by Eldborg, the kind of landscape you provides Mexico. in New see photographed Sunlight scenery and good clear my concerns head of environmental We have three different maps in different have three We each with circles and notes the car, different Icelanders suggesting from spots in Snæfellsnes should that one that used to or at least, never miss: in the 1980s and 1990s. be that way lectures numerous have received We the northon side versus south side (the north peninsula of the shore the larger picturesque contains the south shore fishing villages, ominous the more contains historical points.) As we leave the Reykjavík city the July a sunny limits on day, Snæfellsnes at glacier seems to stay the snow the exact same distance, the horizon above glowing like a the first few For large steel cloud. I keep myself occupied with miles, isn’t that the glacier the notion get closer. bigger as we getting any this is because it is pouring Perhaps causing desalination into the ocean, that will immediately shift the Gulf bringing about another Stream,

Snæfellsnes

Snæfellsnes The Under-reported Joys of Under-reported Joys The Fields, Hag Mountains and Fields, Islands: Desolated Death Hikes, Berserker Lava BerserkerDeath Hikes, Lava bread, cheese, cappuccino yoghurt, juice and chocolate for our juice and chocolate cappuccino yoghurt, cheese, bread, trip in Kringlanentire on the way out of at Hagkaup town. travel on a budget of 8000 ISK for two. We spend 4000 We of 8000 ISK for two. on a budget travel and buying filling our car with gas, ISK immediately, Snæfellsnesjökul before it completely evaporates, I tell the I tell evaporates, beforeSnæfellsnesjökul it completely driver as we out to Iceland’s most cherished head peninsula in a last second decision to flee the city of Reykjavík and Outside Reykjavík of glacial melt the heat of the sun and the rate Given to we about 2 hours to get have Arctic, in today’s 51

After our hike, we set out for about trying to count every house on Riding back on the ferry, I Kvíabryggja again but got side- the island, (there seemed to be about reflected on my ancestry loudly: tracked at Grundarfjörður. There 27, though dive-bombing Artic mine are a potato-picking people, we came upon a mass of yellow Terns distracted us). The church of not a people meant to be on a ferry houses, yards, and even cars. Signs Flatey was a draw, with a remarkable in moderate seas after two days of everywhere welcomed us to Gulibær, painting on its walls and ceiling by nothing but cheese and yoghurt. or yellow town. A few blocks in, we Baltasar of Katalonia, the celebrated “I don’t get sea sick,” my Icelandic found blue town, and green town. artist whose son, Baltasar Kormakar, companion told me, though she did “They do this every year,” a visitor is one of Iceland’s most celebrated accompany me to the deck, where we from Skagaströnd, who was sitting directors. were surrounded by many Icelanders at a gas station looking at the yellow flags, told us. “And it’s just for themselves. Just for something to do. Just one weekend every year.” “Makes perfect sense. And do you do this in Skagaströnd?” I asked, at which point the visitor smiled After our Snæfellsnes hike, we a good sleeping bag and tent are politely and looked away as though set out for the most celebrated necessary. he was expecting someone. Icelanders-only camping spot The next morning, we set out for in Southern Iceland, the small the quaint north side of Snæfellsnes, We returned to Stykkishólmur patch of grass at the end of the hoping to catch a ferry out to the and caught the 1:50 ferry, spending Berserkerhraun lava field. island of Flatey, the largest of the 1850 ISK per roundtrip ticket To get to the Berserkerhraun lava many islands in Breiðafjorður bay. to Flatey on the Sæferður ferry field, simply follow the signs off of We set out as early as we can, but we company. Our two-hour journey highway 56. One reason few tourists still don’t make it to Stykkishólmur allowed us to scope out a half a go to the lava field is that the road in time for the 9 am ferry. Missing dozen of the more attractive small doesn’t look easy to handle, and it the ferry… by three hours, gives us islands in Breiðafjörður before definitely isn’t. Our sedan bottomed time to properly explore the north descending below deck to watch out repeatedly, and we had to end of the peninsula. Finding Nemo on DVD. Travelling employ our jack during one strangely While we were in a rush to get to on the ferry with a great deal of humiliating experience. But on Kvíabryggja, Iceland’s nicest prison, local island dwellers, the experience Beyond the church and a small who would classify themselves as following the small old road through we couldn’t pass Kellingarfjall, or was not dissimilar to riding the monument to Sigvaldi Kaldalóns, more in the shepherd than master the lava field, we came to a peaceful Old Hag Mountain, located just commuter rail from New York the man who composed the national fisherman category. stretch of grass that was, indeed, off of the old highway 56, and to Connecticut. Most people on anthem and who made a home “Just think of the dead seagulls, packed with Icelanders. Frolicking, not stop. Kellingarfjall, named so the train were in their mid 30s, in Flatey for 3 years, the main then,” I told her. jeep-owning Icelanders. We easily because of a story of an old woman and many had market and grocery attraction was a small coffee shop And she grimaced and seemed to found our own lava shaded cove, troll being caught in the sunlight, items with them. The experience of which didn’t really need a name, as be enjoying the stomach-churning and camped out for the evening, has a lighter shade, rougher arriving in Flatey was also similar to it was the only coffee shop in town, sensation that in many cultures is waking up only intermittently to ask texture, and more surreal patterns arriving in a commuter town. There and a pair of unruly sheep. taken as a sign of love. Yes, it ends as ourselves why, exactly they named than any other mountain on the are no shops or restaurants waiting In hours one and two, my a love story, a lamer than Cameron the lava field after Berserkers, and peninsula—set among the lush green for you, just a few families waiting to travelling partner and I marvelled at Crowe love story. to contemplate whether we hadn’t land of the area, the large sand- pick up whoever went to town. The how quaint Flatey was. Hours three been over-reacting about the notion toned monument valley mountain half dozen tourists on the boat with and four consisted of making sure By Bart Cameron of climate change—near the glacier, looks cut-and-pasted. A brief us set off in different directions to try we were in place when the ferry got even on the hottest day of the year, hike demonstrated that the whole to use our four hours on the island there, as we were terrified of being and even when the sun stays up mountain has the biting traction of well. left on the island overnight. all night, it gets cold enough that shark skin. For our tourist adventure, we set on tour

SÓNAR Barcelona

THE CHEAPEST WAY TO GET TO FESTIVALS:

Fly Iceland Express to where the party is at

GRAPEVINE CONSUMER SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT: By Bart Cameron Except where the party does include Europe Sónar Festival for Advanced Music and Multimedia Art in Barcelona and G! Festival in the Faroe Islands.

Grapevine designer Hörður from the band the Puppetmasters. Kristbjörnsson, one half of the So you intentionally put Subtle, from Oakland. They’re like dynamic DJ-duo Skratch n Sniph, yourself in the path of hipsters. a hip-hop with electronic beats. No, I went to Sonar because it’s loves music festivals. He can’t get Miss Kittin. The future Ms. DJ the kind of music I listen to. I’ve Sniph. Soft Pink Truth, one half enough of them. Or at least of the been there three years, but this year of Matmos, the producers behind Sónar and the G! Festival. In this I realized I shouldn’t have gone. Björk’s Medulla and Vespertine. extremely intimate Q & A, he tells Because this year it was crowded And Jamie Lidell. His performance all the Grapevine readers what with people who were there just to was interesting. People were dressing makes a festival hot enough for his say they’d been there. him while he was playing, wiping on liking. And that is hot indeed. make-up and glasses, it was just an

What are the names of the music festivals you attended this summer? Woodstock 2005? Techno-Woodstock? It’s called Sonar Festival for Advanced Multi-Media… ah what the hell. And G festival Faroe Islands. Techno-Woodstock would actually be a kick-ass festival. Live remixing of the Woodstock 69.

Tell me, you’re hip. You attend hip festivals. What makes a festival hip? The hip people that show up make A Subtle recommendation, golden gloves and skunk hair tops it hip. are so next season. So it’s not the music. interesting performance. No I wouldn’t say it was the music. What are the highlights of Sonar festivals in the past? It’s all about the hype. If it’s cool Are you surprised to hear magazines or cool people, people go De La Soul this year. that I not only know none of there just to go there. these artists, but I don’t think I saw them recently and I know anybody who knows What magazines are you they sounded canned and anybody who has heard of any talking about? You were rehearsed, not something I like of these artists? How many supposed to say music and I in my old school. people came to hear them would mock you. I thought they were okay. They in Barcelona at the Sonar The lifestyle magazines like I-D, were playing old stuff and their old Festival? dazed and confused and all these albums… I just like. 20,000 for the whole festival. But the hipster lifestyle magazines. Douche thing is it’s divided into two venues, bag magazines, mainly from Other highlights? day and night. By day you’re in a England. Mocky, this guy from Berlin, he’s museum made into a concert place for three days. By day you see a lot of progressive and mellow music, some clicks and cut and weird music. By night it’s at almost an aircraft hangar. It has three concert stages. There you can see the DJs, it’s more upbeat.

It still surprises me how this large a music movement can exist outside the attention of many music fans. It surprises you? Like I said, the people that show up there are people who want to say that they have been Jamie Lidell, turbans on the other hand are last season. there. But originally it was a smaller 53

it’s hard to respect them. I would say that’s true for the average festival. But Sonar is different. The sound and how they treat artists is so impressive. And with that, you get to see so G! FESTIVAL many good artists that you don’t have to see Faroe Islands any more good concerts Europe, in Europe, doing one of their smash hits... this year. emm ... wings of despair. Mainly local music. That is what’s And you don’t want good about it. As a foreigner all to see too many concerts a of this is new to you. And those year either. You multi-task? Icelandic bands that know how to Not really. It just happens that way perform, perform world class. with Sonar, it has everything I like to see. Still, let’s rip on festivals in general. It seems like any That’s because you don’t like band that plays a big tent local music. Admit it. You and tits festival is pandering don’t like the local scene and so badly, putting their sound need to jump ship to see this. quality and artistic integrity at Sure. so much risk to play in front of a hammered crowd, that Bastard. crowd, more people listening to Europe playing. to but it’s too big. If you go to one music. of those, you’re going just to have Ad index There were 30 bands playing, I fun and party your ass off. It’s not Shopping Hostel Vík Is it Björk that led you into probably saw eight, I remember about the music. If I had a favourite 66° North 3 Hotel Hellnar Cintamani 7 Kerlingarfjöll this? three, vaguely. I remember band, I wouldn’t want to see them Iceland Giftstore 8 Guesthouse Ódinn Yeah, you could say that. She was Europe, and it was by far the worst at Glastonbury, because it’s not the Icewear 11 Guesthouse Urdarstekkur the headlining act the first time I performance I’ve ever experienced kind of place you can see someone Vík Wool 14 Central Appartments went there three years ago. Illgresi 14 Youth Hostel Grundarfjörður in my life. I really can’t say in words play at. HR Chocolates 17 Heiðarbær how much they sucked, so I would 10-11 18 Guesthouse Lónsá Ah ha, so Björk is the sole have to use the photo from the trip The other thing that gets me Handknitting Association of Iceland 20 Guesthouse Salka reason everything is hip in to show how I is that festivals now market Tæknival 26 Vogar Travel Service Kirsuberjatréð 30 Activity Tours Iceland. felt. I mean I’m themselves by having popular bands. Not to do an ‘In My Naked Ape 31 She opens up a lot of new acts and not kidding, it Brynja 32 Museums and Galleries Day’, but, seriously, for a stuff you haven’t heard before by was really really Osoma 36 Grindavík Icelandic Salt Fish Museum 5 collaborating with many of those short while they at least let Nexus 36 Energy Museum 16 bad. I’ve been bands with artistic integrity artists. Skífan 46 Klink & Bank 16 to bad concerts, who would never be profitable The Viking Store 53 The Origin Tour 21 but this was come along for the ride. Einar Jonsson Museum 30 So where can I hear the best absolutely the Cafes, Bars, Restaurants Naked Ape 31 of Sónar? Is it on the radio? Yeah, I know. People go for that Kaffi Róma 5,20 The Laxness Museum 32 worst... ever. On the internet? because they don’t want to go to too Segafredo 5,53 Reykjavík Art Museum 42 It’s not on the radio. It’s basically many concerts a year. But seeing a Pizza 67 19 Þjóðveldisbærinn 54 Why would you want to see band play a festival is not the same Humarhúsið 27 hard to get. It’s the music you have an exotic locale for a music Tveir Fiskar 28 Transportation as seeing a musician play their own to put effort into getting. Once you festival? Doesn’t the festival Iðno 29 RB Car Rental 17 get into it, you see that Sonar really overrun the town the same concert where they are their own act. Ráðhúskaffi 29 Borgarhjól Rent-A-Bike 29 Rósenberg 30 Hertz 55 has the cream of what’s going on in way a cruise ship might People are essentially multi- Hlölla bátar 31 Flugfélag Íslands 55 that genre. overrun a village? Brynja 32 tasking by going to these Just to see it. It’s unbelievable how Dominos Activities festivals. Checking off their Turning from an alternative the people of the Faroes pull this 33,35 The Reykjavk Tourist Information Centre 4 schedule. Traffic 33 Arctic Rafting 9 techno-festival in Barcelona off. It’s even in remote place in the They are. And you can see it with Shalimar 35 Listasumar Akureyri 10 to… what is the G-Festival, Faroes. You have to rent a car or get Á Næstu Grösum 37 Reykjavik Excursions 13 Vestmannahelgi, where people see and would you recommend it a bus just to get out there. Though, Pravda 41 Activity Tours 15 the Westmans while seeing a festival, as strongly as Sonar? thinking of the acts, is Faroes worth Studentakjallarin 44 Iceland Excursions 19 or even people who fly out to Iceland Langbest Pizza 48 Gufubaðið Laugarvatni 29 I would recommend G Festival, going to see Europe, I don’t think so. just for Iceland Airwaves and feel Hressingarskálinn 49 Blue Lagoon 37 not for the music, though. I would But drinking Faroes style is definitely Bar 11 49 Reykjavík Spa City 45 they’re going to see everything. recommend G Festival just for the worth it. Halastjarnan 50 The Icelandic Opera 47 trip to the Faroe Islands. It’s a weird Jökulsárlón 48 place. Especially if you’re there If you fly to Iceland Airwaves, Accommodation 54 Sea Tours 51 What about the mainstream at least you can see good Hvammur Kerlingafjöll 51 seeing a music festival. It’s just weird. festivals, then? In Europe? bands in small venues. And BB 44 Elding Whale Watching 52 Guesthouse Engjavegur City Center Booking Service56 You’re in a town not bigger than Like Glastonbury or Roskilde? good local music, something Suðavík, with 500 people max, and Hotel Bjarkarlundur I wouldn’t want to go to I don’t see promoted at other Hotel Breidafjörður Other it’s turned into a beach party with Glastonbury, and Roskilde I’ve been festivals. Hotel Búðir Gajol 34 Hotel Framnes OgVodafone 43 Hostel Hamar Carlsberg 56 54 The Nohito and Other Brennivín Cocktails When the nicest guy in rock, Dave Grohl, recently visited Iceland again, he insisted that the local rotgut, Brennivín, was the best liquor in the world. Rumor is that he wants to import it to America on the large scale. Brennivín is a fine hard caraway- parts Brennivín, four parts Mysa (the flavoured schnapps, traditionally served dairy run off you get when you make The Members Only as cold as possible. So cold that the yoghurt, available for purchase in most liquor gels, if possible. To achieve this grocery stores), and Mountain Dew. effect, place the bottle inside a milk The other classic from the North carton full of water, and let it freeze was the “1972”—not quite a cocktail overnight. This allows the bottle to but extremely popular in Húsavík. maintain a solid block of ice. Coca-Cola is rested on a radiator until The Grapevine decided that if extremely warm, then combined with Brennivín is going to be the next big three shots of Brennivín. hard alcohol, there should be some Along the disaster category, the first appropriate Brennivín cocktails. For is Brennivín and Magic energy drink, the most part, this led to gastrological which both tasted bad and produced disasters, which we will list below, but dastardly effects on mind and liver, one charming bartender at Sirkus, the something called the Pink Pig, made place in Iceland you’re least likely to at Sirkus, which was nicknamed the order or be served a cocktail, invented Appendix by a man who claimed his O.C. / Original Confusion the definitive Brennivín cocktail, the appendix burst after one sip, and the Nohito—with alternative spelling No- OC, Original Confusion, a Brennivín Heat-O, if you’re in the mood. and Egils Appelsín orange soda To enjoy a Nohito, combine one part beverage that hurt a great deal. Brennivín, one and a half parts Martini The long and short of it is this: Bianco, one half part dark rum, lemon Brennivín can work well in cocktails, and lime, a dash of Bols Peppermint, namely the Nohito and the Mountain and top off with three parts ginger ale. King, but be extremely careful. You’re The result is a full-bodied, sneaky drink playing with something a lot more reminiscent of Burt Reynolds in his 70s powerful than fire. And the fact that it heyday. Yes, that smooth. can have such disastrous consequences After investigating rumours from makes the whole experience that much the North, our reporter swears by the more pleasurable. ultimate Icelandic cocktail. He calls it Bart Cameron and The Pink Pig. May or may not explode your appendix. the Mountain King. Ingredients are two Helgi Þór Harðason Nohito a.k.a. No-Heat-O

Classified Accommodation in the Salka Guesthouse Want to be inthis section? center of Reykjavik Skipagata 1 Call for information and rates : 540 3605 Fully equipped apartment 600 Akureyri Hamar Hostel for 1- 4 persons. tel: 461-2340 Made beds and sleep- Tel: (+354) 847 9409 e-mail: [email protected] ing bag accommodation www.centralapartment.com from 1950 ISK only! Less than an hour drive from Hótel Breiðafjörður Only 2 hours drive from Reykjavik. Small Reykjavík by the main road no.1. and friendly hotel, perfectly located in the Húsið - Folk Museum Hamri, 310 Borgarnes. centre of the town, only a few minutes Tel. 437-1663, [email protected] walk from the beautiful harbour of Styk- kishólmur. The hotel offers a splendid view Grundarfjörður Youth Hostel over the harbour and Breidafjordur. If our Do nothing, then rest. Or go hiking, guests need to access Internet they can swimming, horse-riding, whale wathc- do so on a fulltime online computer. Hotel guests can play golf without a charge at ing, kayaking, golfing and more. the towns 9 holes golf course. The Árnesinga Folk Museum is lo- Central in Snæfellsnes. Open all year. tel. +354-433-2200 cated at “The House”, built in 1765 Tel: 562-6533/8956533 www.prinsvaliant.is and one of the oldest surviving build- [email protected] [email protected] ings in Iceland. Exhibits show local history and trace the different roles Vík Hostel Guesthouse by Engjavegur that The House has played during its Suðurvíkurvegur 5 Kitchen, TV and bathroom in all long life. 870 Vík. rooms. Hot tubs! Húsið, Eyrarbakki, Tel: +354 Great veiw over the 800 Selfoss, tel: 482-3585 4831504 ocean and beautiful sur- [email protected] - gesthus.is roundings. Nights from Þjóðveldisbærinn only 1650 ISK. Tel.: +354-487-1106 /+354- 867-2389 E-mail: [email protected] Lónsá Guesthouse Lónsá in Hörgárbyggð 601 Akureyri A reconstructed viking farm from the 11th century. Situated in Þjórsárda- tel: 462-5037 Vogar Travel Service lur valley, approx. 1 1/2 hour from 12 rooms w/ made beds, sleeping Reykjavík.(Take route 1, turn off at Hótel Hellnar bag accommodations for 64 pers. route 30 and then again at route 32) -at the Foot of the Glacier Kitchenfacilities. Real budget accom- Opening hours every day from 10-12 modation! Hellnar, 356 Snæfellsbær and 13-18. Tel. 488-7713 Tel: 435-6820 Fax: 435-6801 Vogar, 660 Mývatn [email protected] - hellnar.is tel: 464-4399. Ask for Þuríður, Cottages in Varmahlíð! [email protected] It is comfortable for up to 4 persons Bed and Breakfast in the center Nýibær youth hostel By main road Hafnarbraut. Double Urðarstekkur Guesthouse to stay in made up beds or even more of Reykjavik. Attractions within five Hotel Bjarkarlundur in sleepingbag accommodation. The rooms or dormitory rooms. Kitchen- Cheap accommodation just by minutes walk. We offer you relaxing 580 Reykhólahreppur facilities. Many types of activity in houses are arranged around a natural atmosphere. Guesthouse Odinn, Od- tel: 434-7762 the area. Vatnajökull glacier tours bus-terminal at Mjódd hot pool that invites for a relaxing insgata 9, 101 Reykjavik, Tel: +354 [email protected] available near by. Hafnarbraut 8, 780 Urðarstekkur 12 - 109 Reykjavík bath after an adventurous day full of 861 3400, www.odinnreykjavik.com www.bjarkarlundur.is Hornafjörður. tel. 478-1736 tel: 557-4095 activities. Activity Tours, Varmahlíð www.grapevine.is

YOURYOUR grapevine.is REYKJAVÍK´S �������������� ENGLISH LANGUAGE NEWSPAPER FREEFREE ISSUE ELEVEN: AUG 5 - AUG 18, 2005 COPY

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“On Icelandic web pages, graphic designers are 800 times more popular than naked women.” Haukur Már Helgasson on graphic design PAGE 48

“Many people here believe that the Icelandic Free State succeeded quite well—332 years is doing better than the system set up in America, for example.” Bart Cameron, from his editorial. PAGE 05

“What sets t.A.T.u. apart from the Monkees, Nýlon and the Sex Pistols is that Katina and Volkova actually possess talent.” Paul F Nikolov, on his review of t.A.T.u. PAGE 41

“The unbelievable fact is that not only were the attackers suicide bombers (a first in Western Europe) but they were also young disenchanted men that were a product of British society.” Stephen Taylor-Matthews on the London bombings. PAGE 16

“T-shirt, trousers and shoes. No underwear though.” Krummi from Mínus explains his attire. PAGE 18