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OBE ay k at Br Blumenthalat Duc Heston , The F Proprietor Contents How to use Contents A promisepromise ofof qualityquality Taste here you stay can make that whatever you’re expecting is Dine at the Top Table Heart of England his guide brings together the 6 32 or break a holiday. what you’ll get. best in fine dining, pub grub, Whether you’re looking Of course, quality establishments W ethnic cuisine, local produce, for a no-frills place to lay your of all kinds understand that there’s T cookery classes and workshops around head at the end of a hard day’s no such thing as an average the country. You’ll find full contact sightseeing, or something a little customer, so we’ve taken pains Local Flavours 8 East of England 36 details at the end of each regional more luxurious to cushion you, to pinpoint particular facilities to section, and details of how to get in you want to know exactly what to make choosing accommodation touch with national organisations at the expect from the moment you book even easier for you. For instance, back of the book. We’ve also included your room. All the accommodation if you’ve been exploring in the a recipe from each of England’s Tuck into Tradition London options mentioned in this book great outdoors all day you may 11 40 nine regions, so you can sample the for the new Taste category, which have been checked out and rated need somewhere to dry wet or fantastic range of local tasty dishes on celebrates fine food and drink. You can by our independent assessors, and muddy clothes, so look for Walkers offer from every corner of the country. also invest in the Enjoy England Official all bear the Enjoy England Quality Welcome and Cyclists Welcome To help you choose your destination, Guides to Quality (enjoyenglanddirect. Rose – your assurance that when logos. Ready, Steady, Cook! South West England the regional events diary on page 60 com), which take the worry out of you see it, you know what you’re We even have a Quality Assured 14 44 highlights fairs, festivals, markets and booking accommodation. getting. Visitor Attraction scheme, which more that are must-catch dates for Tourist Information Centres (listed The Quality Rose covers points you towards over 600 every foodie’s diary. Bear in mind that on enjoyengland.com) around the just about every type of brilliant days out at quality- some of the attractions and places country will help you make the most South East England accommodation, from caravan assured visitor attractions England’s Northwest 48 listed in this guide may have seasonal of your stay. There are over 550 in 16 parks to boutique hotels; across the country. And if you opening times, so do check when you England, providing information on farmhouse B&Bs to country house have particular mobility, visual are planning a visit. attractions to discover, places to eat retreats; self-catering cottages to or hearing needs, our National The annual Enjoy England Awards and events around which to plan your canal barges. The clear star and Accessible Scheme or Tourism for Excellence (enjoyengland.com/ break. Many can also help with your North East England Recipes diamond rating, which is the same for All (tourismforall.org.uk) will 20 54 excellence) are announced in April; accommodation reservations. as the ratings system used by the help you get the most out of your these will point you towards the very All web addresses used in this guide AA and the RAC, lets you know holiday. best places to visit and stay. Look out are shown without the prefix www. Our ratings made easy Yorkshire 24 Map 58 + Simple, practical, no frills X Tasty offers ++ Well presented and well run XX For fantastic special offers and discounts from restaurants, +++ Good level of quality and comfort XXX hotels, cookery schools and other food and drink ++++ Excellent standard throughout XXXX East Midlands 28 Events and Useful Organisations 60 +++++ Exceptional with a degree of luxury XXXXX establishments around the country, visit our website: enjoyengland.com/taste

5 Local and luscious The fi ne dining revolution Dine at the toptable Apparently, we each have around 10,000 tastebuds – and that’s just as well because the exciting, varied cuisine on England’s restaurant scene will tingle and tease them all

‘Two of my greatest pleasures in life? Clockwise ellow epicureans, let’s indulge Head Hotel, Great Bircham, Norfolk). Works in Liverpool, or another starry from top left: a few thousand tastebuds right Quite simply, they’ve become the trip out to Juniper, Altrincham (modern Seeing Newcastle United win. And visiting Paul Kitching in action at the Fnow. Imagine, if you will, nitro- main attraction (that’s our excuse for a French cuisine); Midsummer House any one of the “new breed” of restaurants innovative Juniper, green tea and lime mousse, romantic table à deux anyway). Restaurant, Cambridge (Mediterranean); where fresh, local produce is put to such Altrincham poached with liquorice, pine sherbet London continues to be a gourmet or Jessica’s, Birmingham (French- Superb food and fountain, and perhaps a glass of white hotspot – it has more Michelin-starred influenced modern British). brilliant effect by chefs determined to add panoramic views over London at the wine. Yes, we’ve whisked you away eateries than any city other than Paris twinkles with Michelin stars: some regional flavour to their menus. iconic Oxo Tower to Heston Blumenthal’s The Fat Duck (40, if you’re making notes), and more restaurants at Sharrow Bay, Miller Howe, Thank goodness at least one of those is on Fine dining or at Bray, voted the best restaurant in than 6,000 restaurants serving around Gilpin Lodge and L'Enclume all come brasserie, whatever the world for its innovative ‘molecular 70 different cuisines, from Italian to with the coveted stars and stunning the rise these days in England. And it isn’t suits your mood at gastronomy’. Even your cousin (the Thai, Indian to Mexican. We’re not accommodation attached. A special Liverpool’s hip the Magpies!’ new establishment, scientific one who is never impressed going to repeat that old cliché ‘you can celebration or an informal weekender? Ian Weightman, communications consultant The London by anything) will love such inventive dine around the world in the capital’, Any time, any place is our motto Carriage Works dishes. And this is just your starter in but you can (and we just have). when it comes to a spot of delicious A flavour of France England’s fine dining revolution. And have you noticed how conviviality – what do you expect from at Elena’s L’Etoile, Twenty years ago eight out of ten many chefs are cooking up a storm the nation that invented afternoon tea Soho, London top chefs in this country were French, outside London, too? These days to fill the gap between the last meal Le Mont – fine food and fine views and we still love Gallic artistes like there’s a Michelin star or three on and the next? Lawyers have overtaken in the heart of Raymond Blanc (Le Manoir aux Quat’ a metaphorical doorstep near you builders as the country’s biggest tea Manchester Saisons, Great Milton, ). countrywide (106 doorsteps to be drinkers, which could explain the Simply the best? But England’s recent culinary boom has exact – keep those notes tidy now). resurgence of the institution at stylish Paul Heathcote been fuelled by some noticeably home- Here you can savour the tastiest of London venues. Might we suggest uses only the best ingredients for his grown British talents: celebrities like local and seasonal fare. How about delicate pastries in the spectacular superb dishes Rick Stein (The Seafood Restaurant, a seaside escape to Torquay, newly Palm Court of The Ritz? And we adore Modern British Padstow), Gordon Ramsay, Anthony crowned with two Michelin-starred fat rascals in elegant Bettys, Harrogate, cuisine at Venn, Flinn (Anthony’s, Leeds), veggie master restaurants – Orestone Manor and as well as ‘Tea with Mr Darcy’ in the Hull, Yorkshire Simon Rimmer (Greens, Manchester) The Elephant Bar and Restaurant. Try new Regency Tea Rooms at The Jane and one-to-watch Ben Handley (King’s the award-winning London Carriage Austen Centre, Bath. Another cup?

66 Regional information enjoyxxxxxxx.com Regional information enjoyxxxxxxx.com Tasty Offers For special offers and discounts visit our website 7 Regional specialities East Midlands Local flavours Fresh, crunchy, succulent, wholesome, local, seasonal: these are some of our favourite foodie words and (we think) the perfect introduction to this dip into home-produced ingredients and specialities

f a vegetable could talk (we’re While we’re on the subject of www.cotswoldbreakfast.com Clockwise keeping an open mind on the farms, we’d like to remind you what network, or accommodation from the from top left: matter) it would splutter ‘I’m refreshingly fun places they are to stay Deliciouslyorkshire breakfast scheme? Taste the I countryside with ‘We stayed on a farm and it was great fun exhausted!’ if it had just travelled for a few days. (Cue image: waking to Farm shops and farmers’ markets a Farm Stay at halfway around the world to stagger the sound of birds and a scrumptious make mouthwatering days out too; you Thistlehaugh, with all the animals. The lady let us feed onto your plate. Who wants that breakfast, then a rosy-cheeked jaunt meet so many passionate producers the lambs. They were very cute. Breakfast when the finest ingredients are grown in the countryside). Check out Farm and they often let you taste before Perfect for brekkie or a barbie, was scrummy and I had sausages and and reared right here? We refer you, Stay UK and take yourselves off to you buy, which goes down well with superb sausages for instance, to tender black face Cumbria, Northumberland, the Peak little Johnny and Jemima. It’s easy even from Powters in bacon. The sausages were specially made lambs from the hills near Otterburn, District, or the East of England, to for urbanites, thanks to increasing Newmarket for the farm by the butcher. Mummy liked Northumberland, juicy Kentish apples, reinvigorate your appetite for living. numbers of farmers’ markets in cities English wines Essex oysters and Herefordshire beef. Here’s an interesting did-you-know: like London. Or drop into Weeton’s fermenting in the homemade jam best and daddy liked their oak barrels They’re part of our living landscape on average we spend around four in Harrogate, supplied by more than at Chapel Down everything. When I got home I told my and culinary heritage. minutes on breakfast, two to prepare 35 Yorkshire farms and declared the Vineyard, Kent class about my brilliant holiday. I hope we ‘Traceability’ is what it’s all about, it and two to eat it – if we squeeze it in Countryside Alliance’s Best Rural Scrumptious plus seasonal produce – something at all. Dear overworked colleagues, we Retailer of the Year. Pack a picnic of scoops of Cheshire go back there again.’ those esteemed chefs on the previous would never suggest you are anything nutritious, handmade goodies and Farm ice cream Ryan Jackson, aged six pages prize highly. As UK sales of like average (you’re all special, of have a family adventure in the great An array of bulbs at the Isle of Wight organic food and drinks have now course) but now consider this: eating outdoors, possibly foraging for berries Garlic Festival topped a record £1bn and we’re all breakfast boosts brainpower, reduces while you’re there in Hugh Fearnley- From the field to happily chomping wholefoods, we stress and improves your mood. Isn’t Whittingstall mode. Pick your own your fridge in less guess you, too, cherish provenance it worth treating yourself to a lusty- fruit and veg on a farm or stop off at than a day – that’s (an even posher buzzword). The but-leisurely start to the day once in Cheshire Farm Ice Cream for a ‘cow to what farmers’ markets are all sainted Jamie Oliver (voted among our a while? Farm B&Bs are the real deal: cone’ experience (that average person about ‘most inspiring political figures 2005’ platefuls of home-produced bacon, we mentioned earlier consumes eight Black pudding is in a Channel 4 poll) has even got our sausages and eggs (low food miles litres of ice cream a year!). a foodie favourite, school kids on message about healthy help save the planet!), and wonderful Now allow us a chuckle before we and at RS Ireland the ‘proof of the eating. They’ll probably persuade you local yoghurts, jams and fruit juices. get serious. We used to think that pudding is in the to visit the new demonstration organic So where shall we go? Will it be Slow Food meant sluggish service eating’ farm at Occombe in Paignton, Devon, the 15th-century Old Farm, Dorn in in a restaurant. In fact it’s a global

in order to learn more. , from the movement that promotes gastronomic W

8 Regional information enjoyxxxxxxx.com Regional information enjoyxxxxxxx.com 9 Local and luscious Regional specialities Pubs and traditional treats

Clockwise identity as part of local culture and heritage from far left: – authentic regional flavours in other words, Fresh air, fresh fruit and fun like Artisan Somerset Cheddar, Gloucester for the kids, Old Spot and Three Counties Perry. Tuck 'pick-your-own' We’re pleased that the EU also recognises orchards make the importance of local food heritage, giving a great family day out Protected Food Name Status to Rutland into Bitter, Beacon Fell , tradition cheese – add a Newcastle Brown Ale and , pint and a pickle among many others. They really are a flavour Smooth ale and jokes in a pub. Cream scones and a natter in a cosy tea shop. and you've got a lunch fit of the region you visit. Just thinking about Shared fish and chips, wrapped in sea air. Memories. Future invitations for a prince or them makes us want to set off right now. ploughman In fact we will. Join us. Pick up a food Top to bottom: ll these quintessentially Quality is also the theme of our Rest assured, the drinks are Any time is trail – there are lots to choose from – and The Rose English experiences are next paragraph (in fact of the whole matching the quality of food in and Crown in opening time relish to your heart’s content: The Stilton simple, memorable, and of this brochure). You see, not only pubs. The Good Beer Guide (‘the when it comes Romaldkirk, A to Kentish Trail through Derbyshire, Nottinghamshire County Durham inexpressibly precious. They’re the has trad pub grub raised its game of perfect book when you’re out’, says oysters straight and ; the Cider Cycling Fish and chips things we do at the end of the week, late, as you well know our top chefs England cricketing hero Andrew from the sea Route through Herefordshire pedalling always taste the icing on the cake of a day’s have been bringing their pans out of Flintoff) reveals there are more micro- beside golden autumn orchards; and the better eaten sightseeing, the places we meet for city restaurants and into gastropubs breweries per head in Britain than in outside, and South East England Wine Trail to 20 superb better still when a gossip or just because we fancy it. everywhere. So next time you’re any other country. We love a half (and vineyards – English wine is winning ever savoured with Inexpensive but priceless. scratching your head for a surprise for then perhaps the other) after a game more top world awards. a friend on the We’re surprised ourselves that your partner, take them to the ‘local’ – to of cricket or a trip to the zoo. By the beach Then let’s get serious about sausages we haven’t yet waxed lyrical about Jean-Christophe Novelli’s White Horse, time you read this, the Campaign for in England’s Northwest (incidentally, we pubs – there are around 40,000 in Harpenden, or Heston Blumenthal’s Real Ale’s National Pub of the Year will have been doing so since 500AD when England, after all – and perhaps, like Hind’s Head, Bray. Glorious. have been announced. Could it be the the Romans introduced them). Sausage you, we take them for granted. But Quite frankly, we think it’s a stroke Boot Inn at Weymouth, Dorset, the supremo Cliff Cowburn takes them very just ponder for a moment (perhaps of genius to combine a relaxed pub Robin Hood in Jarrow, Tyne and Wear, seriously; his Cowmans Famous Sausage over a pint) what an amicable welcome atmosphere with fine dining. On a The Swan at Little Totham, Essex? Shop in Clitheroe, Lancashire, produces they offer as you wander in from your tour of Yorkshire it’s heart-warming to All are worth investigation, as is the over sixty delicious varieties. And perhaps day’s hiking or city shopping trip. Inns settle down in The Star Inn, Harome superior ale produced by breweries give Dad a birthday surprise with a tour of a have been providing sustenance to near Helmsley, for ‘re-invented’ British such as Cain's in Liverpool and the brewery – Shepherd Neame in Faversham, hungry travellers for centuries (from fare such as soup award-winning Woodlands Brewing for example. Everything tastes so much 1189 at Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem, with crushed pepper cream (Egon Company in Nantwich. better when you actually see the apples Nottingham). They serve hearty grub Ronay thinks so too, because it’s You may have noticed we spend plucked from the trees in Somerset, smell at reasonable prices (Thursday night his Gastropub of the Year 2006). Or a lot of time trend-spotting, and in herrings being smoked into Craster kippers is homemade pie night at The Anglers try Michelin-starred The Stagg Inn, addition to researching gastropubs and in Northumberland, or walk in the Malvern Rest, Millers Dale, Derbyshire) along Titley in Herefordshire, and Michelin micro-breweries, we’ve been sampling Hills, Worcestershire, stopping to sip the with good beers, wines and juices. Eating Out Pub of the Year 2006, The restaurants with rooms (it’s tough, cool spring water before it ever reaches Who can resist ensconcing themselves Rose and Crown, Romaldkirk, County but someone has to do it). Ever had a the bottle. It’s so deeply satisfying to feel and succumbing to their homely Durham. For city breaks, whether in fabulous meal only to find the magic connected to the landscape around you comforts? Not us. That’s what we call Liverpool or London – you’re spoiled dispelled by the homeward journey

– you can only be in England. ‘quality time.’ for choice. afterwards? Make the feelgood vibes W

10 Regional information enjoyxxxxxxx.com Tasty Offers For special offers and discounts visit our website 11 LocalPubs andand traditionalluscious treats East Midlands

last by staying the night, at places like The Clockwise from top left: Three Acres Inn and Restaurant, Shelley Eat, drink and sleep in West Yorkshire, and Mr Underhill’s, in the heart of the Dinham in . Better still, turn a Lake District at The Drunken Duck night into a short break at somewhere like Is there anything The Drunken Duck in Cumbria where better after a couple you'll get bar, restaurant, accommodation of pints than a hot, and stunning views of the Lake District. spicy curry? Now try an experiment. What do you Your place in the smell when we ask you for your favourite sun: The Sun, Kirby Lonsdale, Cumbria childhood holiday memory? Close your Friends enjoying a eyes. Go on, really tight. Is there a whiff drink at the Avon of fish and chips at the seaside? A spicy Gorge Hotel, Bristol curry mixed with bright city lights? A Drink in the history ‘It’s not a cliché – the English pub really is custardy apple pie beside a log fire? You of England at our just can’t beat the old favourites, the big oldest Inn, Ye Olde unique. Other countries have bars, cafés Trip To Jerusalem, holiday tuck-in with family and friends. Nottingham and bierkellers, but the English pub is Round off a visit to Greenwich at Take a tour of a brand apart. I go to enjoy our unique Goddard’s Pie House for yummy pie and St Peter's Brewery mash, explore the famous curry houses in Norwich, which (sorry, that word again) style of beer: of Manchester, scoff fish and chips after a concludes with a free tasting session cask-conditioned “real ale”, living beer splash in the sea in Blackpool or Brighton. (it would be rude And have you counted how many not to) that reaches maturity in its cask in the pub puddings we’ve invented? England’s Messing about in cellar. It may be light or dark in colour, repertoire is unrivalled. Someone (maybe boats and pubs on the Norfolk Broads weak or strong, but it will have richness, you?) should tour all the places where puds have been created then write a book Taking traditional complexity… and drinkability. Enjoy!' afternoon tea while – Pud Pioneers, there’s your title. Start watching the world Roger Protz, editor, Good Beer Guide with Bakewell Pudding and Banoffee Pie, go by at the Chester and do stop for inspiration at the home Grosvenor Hotel of the Pudding Club, Three Ways House Hotel, Mickleton in Gloucestershire. Oh dear, we’re running out of space, but there’s always time for tea or coffee. You can snack away blissful hours with a book in a snug corner along Cumbria’s Tea Trail; munching Lincolnshire Poacher Cheese toasted sandwiches in Wold View Tea Room, Tealby; or sipping traditional China tea and nibbling a cucumber sandwich in the elegant surroundings of the brasserie at the Chester Grosvenor.

12 Regional information enjoyxxxxxxx.com Regional information enjoyxxxxxxx.com 13 Local and luscious Cookery schools andEast workshops Midlands Ready, steady, cook!

Don’t know your corkscrew from your tin-opener? Or maybe you’re keen to master fusion cuisine and cordon vert? There’s a cookery course or break just for you

Clockwise ime was, Great-Gran passed of London, Regent’s Park (June) and extending your repertoire. from top left: recipes to Gran, who passed Ludlow and Marches Food and Drink In fact, there’s such limitless choice Hands-on teaching them to Mum, etc. Then Festival (September). you could solve your next present- at the Ashburton T ‘The mishaps I have had with a few Cookery School, suddenly all of us busy-with-living Restaurants are also throwing open giving dilemma. Not even the person sausages and a packet of instant mash Devon folks took the ‘convenient’ option of their doors for masterclasses. Learn who has everything has tried their Where better readymade eating out of cardboard the secrets of Indian cooking from hand at every culinary technique and beggar belief. Then one kind friend to learn about boxes. Until Delia (bless!) convinced award-winning Atul Kochhar and his you can buy gift vouchers from many seafood than Rick suggested a cookery course. I have Stein's Padstow us again that we can all boil an egg team at Benares, London. Or ‘shadow places, including Melmerby in Cumbria never had so much fun or learnt so much Seafood School? – and more – and the spark returned the chef’ one-to-one for the day or (delicious bread-making courses run The Cordon to homemade mealtimes. Fellow fork- evening at Horsley Hall Country House by artisan baker Andrew Whitley at in a weekend before. The things I can Vert Cookery wielders, you’ve wallowed in pages of Hotel and Restaurant, Weardale, The Village Bakery) and The Cooking School, at the fine dining, local produce and village County Durham. Experience, Hadleigh in Suffolk (select now do with a fillet of fish, seasonal Vegetarian Society, pubbery, now’s the chance to unleash Or go back to school. No need from Mediterranean Cooking to Wine vegetables and a funky sauce would Altrincham Atul Kochhar your own creativity at the brilliant to quake (those old reports, ‘must Tasting with Dinner; non-cooking surprise even Gordon Ramsay!’ teaches techniques range of cooking workshops, demos try harder’), the main requirement partners also welcome). And next from the East at David Harrop, designer and courses springing up the length is enthusiasm and a love of food. time you feel like a break, take the Benares in London and breadth of England. Day visits or residential, they cater imaginative route – a Cookaway Food Go meat free For a memorable change from the for every culinary predilection and Break in Herefordshire, or a Balti Short and learn to choose the right norm pick up tips at courses chez level (or lack) of skill. Take your pick: Break in Birmingham featuring cooking organic wine at your favourite celebrity chefs: Rick cordon bleu at Tante Marie School demos, tastings, and shopping with Bath's Vegetarian Stein’s Padstow Seafood School; of Cookery, Woking, Surrey; The expert balti chefs to find ingredients to Cookery School Rosemary Shrager’s kitchens at North Vegetarian Cookery School, Bath; recreate authentic dishes at home. Fresh bread and fresh ideas at Yorkshire hotel Swinton Park; or or London’s Asian and Oriental We’ll leave you with one final Quartier Vert, the family cottage of ‘The Cotswold School of Catering. Try a workshop, thought to chew over: it’s estimated Clifton, Bristol Chef’ Rob Rees, maybe joining him anything from a beginner's crash that each of us spends around six Rosemary Shrager on a visit to local farmers’ markets course to special courses for dads, years dreaming. Readers, the real in her kitchen in and drinks producers to appreciate teenagers and chocaholics at Coghlans thing is far better. So once you’ve Swinton Park, the importance of finding the right School of Wine, Food and Dining, perused this brochure, do treat ingredients. Look out for national near Chesterfield, Derbyshire. yourself to a cooking adventure and local names demonstrating at There’s nothing quite so fulfilling as or some of the other gourmet food festivals, too, including Taste discovering an unsuspected flair or experiences that tempt you.

14 Regional information enjoyxxxxxxx.com Regional information enjoyxxxxxxx.com Tasty Offers For special offers and discounts visit our website 15 England’sEast Northwest Midlands

A nice cup of tea and ightlife and wildlife, history due to Nigel's very special cuisine. His a sympathetic view at Local legends Linthwaite House Hotel, and mystery, country and city hotpots, shrimp porridge and summer Windermere Nlife are all part of the varied fruit pudding soufflé simply cannot be life, and absorbing culture and landscape of resisted - they are sheer magic! Country England’s Northwest. Whether you’re In nearby Chester, the fabulous looking for fresh mountain air in the Chester Grosvenor’s Arkle restaurant lovely Lake District, or a glamorous is another multiple award-winner and club in which to dance and celeb-spot holder of a Michelin star. It offers chic the night away, you’re sure to find contemporary dining in an atmosphere city to keep you company. of supreme elegance, and features one Licking sticky fingers after eating melting ice cream. The London Carriage Works, named of the most extensive wine cellars in after the original building, is Liverpool’s England, with over 600 bins from all Hearing the gentle sizzle of a breakfast banger newest and leading restaurant, and was over the world. Executive chef Simon Clarissa Dickson-Wright beginning to cook. Sandwiching meltingly delicious created by Paul Askew, the city’s most Radley changes the menu seasonally, Clarissa Dickson-Wright is a well- known chef, cookbook writer and cheese in homemade bread. These are the food decorated chef. Choose between the with the emphasis on using the finest television presenter. One of the experiences of England’s Northwest relaxed brasserie and the city’s finest local and international produce in an unforgettable Two Fat Ladies, she dining experience, the two sections imaginative and innovative way. loves the food of the Northwest. separated by dramatic shards of glass. Another city favourite, this time in ‘From the lakes of Cumbria to the

Feast on classic cuisine with a creative stylish Manchester, is Le Mont, where W grassy plains of Cheshire comes a modern twist and the freshest local and wonderful selection of the finest foods, including smoked fish and organic produce. The knowledgeable Black is back! meats, handmade chocolates, sommelier will happily guide you traditional bacons, hams and through the extensive list of 200 sausages, real ales, fresh vegetables carefully selected wines. and salads, mustards and pickles, People travel from all over the region ice cream, yoghurt, speciality cheeses and much, much more. to visit the Michelin-starred Longridge restaurant near Preston, run by another ‘When I'm in this area, I check out what’s available in the new and local food hero, Paul Heathcote. Paul exciting Food Hall at Holker Hall. is passionate about local produce; ‘I have even changed my driving Goosnargh chicken and ducks, locally patterns and swapped the A1 for smoked salmon, Cumbrian air-dried the M6 so that I can call at Tebay, ham and of course black pudding all the finest service station in England, with its wonderful shop full of local England’s England’s Northwest feature on the menu. Paul’s Simply delights. Look out for the Yew Tree Heathcotes restaurants and the Made to a variety of closely guarded recipes throughout the Farm Shop in a 17th-century barn Winckley Square Chop House serve region, black pudding is a staple at Halewood, overflowing with Lancashire favourites and great British on menus in England's Northwest, seasonal produce. food in a warm, relaxed atmosphere. from pavement cafés to gourmet ‘Step into the Victorian age at the Lancashire is also home to the restaurants. Whether you try it as Lion Salt Works, Northwich, and fabulous Northcote Manor, where part of a traditional breakfast or as quench your thirst with local ales at a classy canapé, elegantly topped chef Nigel Haworth has worked for 20 the aptly named Salt Barge Pub just with a , we guarantee you'll over the road, beside the canal.’ years. Recently awarded Independent be hooked! Sweet or savoury; piping hot or chilled – savour the flavours of England's Northwest Hotel of the Year, this is in no small part

16 visitengland.com RegionalRegional informationinformation www.visiteastofengland.comwww.visiteastofengland.com ForRegional regional information information enjoyeastmidlands.com go to visitenglandsnorthwest.com 17 England’s Northwest England’s Northwest

award-winning chefs work closely with Useful contacts Cheese pass notes local suppliers to ensure only the best regional ingredients are used. Set on Bartons Pickles bartonspickles.com the fifth and sixth floors of Urbis, one Cartmel sticky-toffee-pudding.co.uk Cheshire Farm Ice Cream of Manchester’s modern architectural cheshirefarmicecream.co.uk landmarks, Le Mont offers French Chester Grosvenor cuisine, a Bollinger bar, and superb chestergrosvenor.co.uk views over the city. David Williams Cheese (01270) 712817 You don’t have to be a stellar chef to Greystone House Farm get hold of this brilliant local produce (01768) 866952 however. The region’s dairies are Hawkshead Farm Tuck into traditional fish and chips at Seniors, then spoil yourself with something sweet particularly acclaimed, and a visit to (015394) 36541 Cheshire Farm Ice Cream is a must. ice cream using fresh whole milk and each year to purchase flavours from Holker Hall holker-hall.co.uk Holland's Pies hollandspies.co.uk Tom and Margaret Fell have been fresh cream since 1986. Over 250,000 liquorice and blackcurrant to rhubarb Holly Tree Farm producing high quality, affordable people with sweet teeth now visit and custard or white choc chunks. Above: feel on top of the world at Lancashire (pictured) Manchester’s Le Mont restaurant hollytreefarmshop.co.uk Sweet treats are also Cumbrian Kendal Mint Cake Dense, pale-coloured cheese with Below: organic vegetables on sale at a moist and crumbly texture when favourites, with Kendal Mint Cake Greystone House Farm Shop, Penrith kendal.mintcake.co.uk Taste Trail England's Northwest and Cartmel sticky toffee pudding Lakeland Limited young. As it matures, the flavour lakelandlimited.co.uk intensifies and the cheese becomes 1. Hawkshead Trout Farm, Cumbria being two of the region’s traditional Lakeland Spring Soft Drinks harder. Fish for superb fresh trout in the largest tempters. Also look out for spicy, coiled (01946) 690777 Blackstick Blue stocked lake in the Northwest. Cumberland sausage; Cumberland Le Mont urbis.org.uk/lemont.asp A golden hued cheese, soft bodied 2. Port of Lancaster sauce made with redcurrant jelly; The London Carriage Works and creamy. It is coloured using Smokehouse, Lancashire Lancashire hotpot; Morecambe Bay tlcw.co.uk exotic annatto, a berry from a South You'll spend ages browsing shrimps; and Holland’s pies, served by Miller Howe Hotel millerhowe.com American shrub. the selection of fish, meat, Northcote Manor northcotemanor.com - no less discerning a cook than Delia Cheshire poultry and cheeses. Moorehouse’s moorhouses.co.uk Smith, at her beloved Norwich City This is one of the oldest English 3. Seniors, Blackpool ! Port of Lancaster Smokehouse cheeses, invented during the 12th Fabulous fish and chips football club. glassonsmokehouse.co.uk century. It comes in three varieties: – , haddock, plaice, 1 The Housekeeper’s Store at Tatton The Robert Cain Brewery white, red (which is coloured Hawkshead John Dory, , brill, Park near Knutsford is another popular cainsbeers.com with annatto) and blue. It’s a rich, rock salmon, butterfish, Shards of glass define Seniors seniorsfishexperience.com mellow, slightly salty cheese. epicurean destination. This speciality the dining space at The sea bass and more. Port of Simply Heathcotes, Longridge 2 food shop offers a variety of traditional London Carriage Works Restaurant and Winkley Square Federia 4. William Santus Lancaster 2 Made to an Italian recipe, this - fine foods from farm, estate and local Chop House heathcotes.co.uk & Co, Wigan Salt Barge Pub (01606) 430647 hard cheese is sweet and nutty. A traditional sweet shop, 3 Preston producers. Load your basket with vegetables, and spices with flair and with a full, malty flavour made by 1875. Quaff its guaranteed guilt-free Village Bakery in Melmerby, Penrith, Tatton Park tattonpark.org.uk It’s similar to Gruyere in character, home to Uncle Joe’s Mint Blackpool Tatton’s own prime , bacon and originality to create their extensive Moorehouse’s, who have been brewing Cumbrian spring water, sarsaparilla and offers bread-making courses run by Damsons, ripe and making it an ideal choice for cooking Wigan - Village Bakery balls. ready for jam or spring lamb. Then squeeze in other range of quality products. Greystone in Burnley since 1870. The Robert Cain dandelion and burdock. artisan baker Andrew Whitley. Courses village-bakery.com and fondues. LIVERPOOL 4 MANCHESTER crumble 5. David Williams local Cheshire produce such as Holly House farm shop and tea room in Brewery produces rich and individual Combine your holiday with some last two days, although there are also William Santus & Co uncle-joes.com Cheese, Sandbach Tree Farm sausages, Nether Alderly Penrith is located on an award-winning beers in its distinctive, tourable brick- cooking practice at the Miller Howe three five-day masterclasses and Yew Tree Farm Shop Sandbach This famous cheese shop in the - water, Cheshire apple juice, and of organic farm, and offers excellent red building – FA (Formidable Ale) Hotel in Windermere, which runs two a one-day course in August for yewtree-farm.com ancient square of Sandbach has long 5 course ! home-cooked food and a wide range is one of their most popular brews. courses each November for around a parents and children. Subjects Regional information been a Cheshire ‘must-visit’. ! For a touch of relish, look out for of local produce. For those who prefer something less dozen students. Each course comprises include Bread Matters, Italian nwfantasticfoods.co.uk nwff.co.uk For contact details see Useful contacts Bartons pickles, which combine Need something to wash it all down? formidable, Lakeland Spring Soft four cooking sessions, with afternoons baking, Russian baking and visitenglandsnorthwest.com traditional pickling methods, the best Pendle Witches Brew is a beer Drinks has been quenching thirsts since free to explore the countryside. The gluten-free breads.

18 For regional recipes go to page 54 For regional events go to page 60 19 NorthEast East Midlands England

Local legends City slickers love The Salon Privée at Malmaison, NewcastleGateshead Star turn Whether you’re walking on the wild side of Hadrian’s Wall or glammed up for an evening in NewcastleGateshead, you’re never far from something Dairy good Winner of the Taste of North East good to eat in North East England England awards, the Doddington Dairy is situated on a family magine dining in the heart of The Alnwick Garden, a 6,000 square farm in the Glendale area of a living tree, with a roaring log foot complex of turret-topped cottages Northumberland. fire in the centre of the room linked by suspended walkways, high in Owners Neill and Jackie Maxwell I believe it is personal commitment and boughs laden with green leaves the trees outside the walls of the main The Crown Brasserie at the Rose and Crown, Romaldkirk – great food in a relaxed setting that makes Doddington cheeses and growing through the restaurant. Fallen garden. The delicious menu includes ice cream so special. branches create screens that divide the a fantastic range of locally sourced sound good?), you can guarantee it will North East England. At Seaham Hall Family members are involved at room, and dimmed lighting creates an produce. However simple your meal be as special as the setting. in County Durham, you can enjoy every stage, from feeding and other-wordly, magical environment. (Northumberland sausages with But this is just one of the memorable the eclectic cuisine of acclaimed chef milking the cows to choosing and This is The Treehouse restaurant at mash and red onion gravy experiences that await visitors to Stephen Smith. Perhaps pay a visit to mixing the ingredients and packing the hotel’s fabulous Serenity Spa, and and delivering the final products. The home of honey enjoy Pan-Asian cuisine with a western Within hours of milking the cows, twist – tapas and à la carte dishes are some of the fresh whole milk is mixed with ingredients of the finest created by the chefs while you watch. quality and crafted into a luxury ice In nearby picture-postcard cream. The rest begins its journey Romaldkirk, the Rose and Crown, of transformation into the most run by Chris Davy, is an 18th-century delicious artisan cheeses.

North East England coaching inn set on the village green, The rich, creamy ice creams contain overlooking the old stocks and water only simple ingredients such as full pump. The restaurant and brasserie cream milk, double cream, sugar, No retelling of the Arthurian egg yolks and real flavours, and are legends would be complete serve locally sourced ingredients free from GMOs, artificial colourings without tales of weary travellers prepared in time-honoured style with and preservatives. The cheeses are stopping off at a roadside inn for a a touch of modern flair. Try matured crafted from raw milk and matured glass of fortifying (and fortified!) on pine shelves in the cool air for honey mead. Try the real thing Cumberland ham with fresh figs, or perhaps breasts of woodpigeon with up to 15 months to give them depth for yourself at St Aidan’s Winery of flavour. on the Holy Island, where honey, parsnip tartlet, juniper berry sauce and Look for Doddington Dairy products fermented grape juice, herbs, well grilled pancetta. at specialist food shops around the water and spirits come together in Terry Laybourne placed Newcastle an ancient alchemy. region, and from Harrods. visitengland.com The Treehouse restaurant at The Alnwick Garden: dining in the heart of a living tree firmly on the culinary map with Café 21, W

20 visitengland.com RegionalRegional informationinformation www.visiteastofengland.comwww.visiteastofengland.com ForRegional regional information information enjoyeastmidlands.com go to visitnortheastengland.co.uk 21 North East England North East England

Taste Trail North East England Useful contacts Cheese pass notes Alnwick Rum alnwickrum.com 1. Chain Bridge Honey Farm, The Alnwick Garden alnwickgarden.com Berwick-upon-Tweed Blagdon Farm Shop Stop by for a tasting and pick up 1 theblagdonfarmshop.co.uk some heather honey, honey mustard, Café 21 (0191) 222 0755 honeycomb and candles. Carroll’s Heritage Potatoes 2. Heatherslaw Cornmill, Ford heritage-potatoes.co.uk Stock up on products made from Chain Bridge Honey Farm stoneground wholemeal flour. chainbridgehoney.co.uk Doddington Dairy 3. Grannies Tea Room, Alnwick 1 Berwick- doddingtondairy.co.uk Local produce on sale, upon-Tweed Grannies Tea Room (01665) 602394 scrumptious lunches as well 2 Heatherslaw Cornmill fordetal.co.uk as hampers made to order. Ford 5 The Herb Patch herbpatch.fsnet.co.uk Runner-up in 2005 Taste of Northumberland Cheese Company Thorpe Farm offers a fine North East England awards. A1 High House Farm Brewery makes a wide range of cheeses selection of delicious foods, highhousefarmbrewery.co.uk including: 4. Northumberland many from local producers Alnwick 3 Horsley Hall horsleyhall.co.uk Cheese Company, Coquetdale (pictured) Top: catch up over a cup of tea at one of Jesmond Dene House Seaton Burn This French-style semi-hard cheese NewcastleGateshead’s many fine cafés jesmonddenehouse.co.uk Taste and buy is matured in damp conditions, Plump, oily North Sea A68 A1068 Larberry Pastures Farm Shop cheeses, or enjoy Below: fillet of pork is served with golden (01642) 583823 causing natural moulding on the wild mushrooms at Café 21 surface. This softens the cheese herring are transformed, a cuppa and a light Seaton Burn 4 Malmaison, NewcastleGateshead with the aid of light brining lunch. malmaison-newcastle.com when ripe. A69 New Barns Farm Shop (01665) 710035 Chevington 5. The Herb Patch, A69 and long exposure to 5 Northumberland Cheese Company A cheese of delightful contradictions Ebchester Ebchester NEWCASTLE fragrant oak smoke, into the Over 120 organic UPON TYNE northumberland-cheese.co.uk which is pure palate indulgence. legendary Craster kippers. herbs are on sale at Redburn Brewery (01434) 344656 New Chevington is a semi-soft Roseden Farm Shop roseden.com mould-ripened cheese made with this small nursery. A19 No northern breakfast A68 The Rose and Crown rich Jersey milk. It has been revived 6. Thorpe Farm Centre, would be complete without A1(M) rose-and-crown.co.uk recently, with the new version being Greta Bridge Greta Bridge Thorpe Farm Centre thorpefarm.co.uk made as close as possible to the these beauties – and they’re Activities for the whole 6 A66 Seaham Hall seaham-hall.com original recipe. family, and mouthwatering healthy too St Aidan’s Winery lindisfarnemead.com culinary delights at the food and Brinkburn Fine dining at wine shop. Regional information This mould-ripened goat’s milk For contact details see Useful contacts Seaham Hall northumbria-larder.co.uk cheese is based on a centuries-old made-in-northumberland.co.uk technique used by French monks. visitnortheastengland.co.uk a modern brasserie serving eclectic, the farm’s own beef, hung for three well as baked goods and charcuterie. farm. Forget supermarket uniformity, High House Farm brewery produces country, produces six draught real ales even a locally blended rum from the kitchen? Visit Horsley Hall near Bishop It has a rich mellow flavour and is similar in style to a French mountain imaginative fusion dishes. Terry himself weeks, can be found alongside other At Christmas, they also sell turkeys and these are characterful, knobbly roots with three traditional ales: Auld Hemp, a and six bottle-conditioned specialist region. Alnwick is a distinguished Auckland. Check out something fishy, tome with a firm, yet yielding texture. is now at the helm of his new joint rare-breed meats and excellent bread free-range geese. At Larberry Pastures incomparable flavour. They even come fine amber-coloured traditional bitter beers. Ales range from the pale and dark rum, based on an old, secret get your just desserts, try a taste of Redesdale venture at Jesmond Dene House, a and cakes. Visit the Blagdon Farm Farm Shop, you can stock up on in a rainbow of unlikely colours – boiled, with a fresh malty aroma; Nel’s Best, aromatic Ebrius bitter through to full recipe that blends aged rums from India or indulge in a little sugar craft. This pale-coloured cheese has a stunning boutique hotel and restaurant Shop for a range of food that has been organic Aberdeen Angus-cross beef, baked, roast or mashed, who could resist a golden-coloured premium ale, not bodied Optimus. Bottle-conditioned Guyana and Jamaica. The introduction You can even send the man in your delicate, subtle taste when young, in Jesmond, Newcastle. produced by farms that are either lamb, free-range chicken and eggs. trying pink fir apple, shetland black, overly bitter and easy to drink; and beers include locally named Twice of other selectively aged rums during life off to one of the men only sessions but as little as three months of It’s no surprise that the ingredients organic or follow traditional farming The humble spud is an unlikely highland burgundy or salad blue? Maften Magic, which has an aroma of Brewed IPA, Haltwhistle Pride and dark the marrying process gives this a – he will never have an excuse to maturation transforms it into a full- on offer to the region’s chefs are methods that are kind to the natural culinary star, but Lucy and Anthony All this is likely to make you work blackberries and autumn fruits, with and mysterious Bishop Ridley Ale. distinctive, full, round character with a stay out of the kitchen again. flavoured gourmet delight. It lacks the 'sheepiness' that puts some superb. Snap up some of the best environment. Roseden Farm Shop sells Carroll produce gourmet, heritage up quite a thirst, and you won’t be malty chocolate overtones. Given North East England’s seafaring depth of flavour. Traditionally bottled by High House people off ewe’s milk cheese. at New Barns Farm Shop, where free-range pork, chicken, and duck, as potatoes on their Northumberland disappointed by the local tipples. Redburn Brewery, in Roman Wall tradition, it’s unsurprising that there’s Want to hone your own skills in the Farm brewery, this is ale at its finest

22 For regional recipes go to page 54 For regional events go to page 60 23 East YorkshireMidlands

Heavenly food and Liquorice – you either love an angelic smile Local legends light up your day at it or loathe it. But if you The Angel Inn, Hetton A can’t get enough of it, head for Pontefract, where liquorice has been made taste since the 16th century. At only 100 calories per ounce, of you can afford to indulge! tradition Yorkshire James Martin Gourmet dining; golden, feather-light batter puddings; which sources seafood fresh from Traditional British style is spiced up the quayside every morning, served in the old favourites and Anglicised On television and in his books, celebrity chef James Martin has fantastic curries; the freshest fish and chips; amber alongside prime local meats and game. classics served here – try grilled black always promoted the best of pints of ale – you’ll find all this and more in Yorkshire Everything is freshly prepared, from pudding with pan-fried foie gras, apple British ingredients and traditional the home-baked bread, delicious and vanilla chutney, and a scrumpy recipes. Yorkshire is his top culinary hen most of us think of Caterer, Yorkshire Post, Olive, Square desserts and ice creams to the reduction. Don’t leave without visiting destination. Yorkshire, the famous Meal and more. So what’s all the fuss chocolate treats served with coffee. The Corner Shop, where you can buy ’Yorkshire and catering are in my pudding is the first thing about? We think that once you’ve tried In Harome, near Helmsley, you’ll find a wide range of foodie treats to take blood,’ he says. ‘My father ran the W catering side of Castle Howard and that springs to mind, followed closely the roast langoustines, accompanied The Star Inn, where poet and peasant home and stock up your larder. I was brought up in a farmhouse by ginger parkin, fat rascals and curd by roast watermelon, or the whole co-exist in one menu, and After a visit to Yorkshire, you’re in Yorkshire. I think I first really

tart. These foods and other regional roast squab with artichoke, peanut and nettles representing the hedgerow. likely to return home well laden with W became aware of the joys of specialities (think Wensleydale cocoa reduction, you'll understand. cooking and food when I was five cheese and Pontefract liquorice) are Follow this by lemon chiboust with and I can honestly say I haven’t at the heart of the region’s culinary barley ice cream and sumac caramel looked back! tradition (and always will be). But now and wash it down with a fine wine and ‘I’ll always have Yorkshire pudding in my repertoire and I can never Yorkshire is becoming renowned for you'll be enraptured. It’s no surprise resist a piece of Yorkshire brack food that’s far more international and that head chef Tony Flinn, who is just (a kind of tea-loaf). But it’s the cosmopolitan in nature. 25, honed his skills in the kitchens of crisp and steaming fish and chips Take Anthony’s in Leeds (pictured the brilliant Ferran Adrià of El Bulli in from the Yorkshire coast with the on the front cover of this brochure). Spain. This is a thrillingly innovative local accompaniment of mushy peas washed down with a mug of Since opening its doors in March restaurant with a bright future. Yorkshire tea that are the most 2004, Anthony’s has established a And this isn’t Yorkshire’s only fine evocative of Yorkshire. reputation for the highest standards of dining hot spot by any means. Near ‘Don’t leave the region without creative and innovative cuisine. It has Skipton there’s the fabulous Burlington trying some of Yorkshire’s best received acclaim from: Yorkshire Life, restaurant at The Devonshire Arms locally brewed ale – it’s fit for a Remy Martin, The Good Food Guide, Country House Hotel, which serves king!’ The Observer, Sunday Telegraph, Michelin-starred cuisine in elegant visitengland.com Independent, Restaurant magazine, surroundings. Whitby boasts Greens, It doesn't come much more traditional than a freshly pulled pint in Ye Olde Black Boy in Hull

24 ForRegional regional information information enjoyeastmidlands.com go to yorkshirevisitor.com 25 Yorkshire

gourmet goodies. There’s just so much butcher by Rick Stein, and is twice Cheese pass notes to choose from here. Though similar in winner of the national ‘Champion of appearance to a Worcestershire sauce, Champions’ sausage award. David’s Henderson’s Relish is unique in its secret is keeping his own rare-breed aroma and flavour. You can use it both pigs, guaranteeing the quality of his as a sauce on meat dishes, pies, fish meat – so snap up some of those and chips and as a cooking ingredient brilliant bangers for the freezer! in casseroles, pasta dishes, soups and Harrogate is famed for its toffee, and marinades. Brymore ice cream comes Farrah’s of Harrogate, started in 1840, in no less than 30 delicious flavours, still keeps the tradition going today. all homemade. David Lishman of Ilkley At nearby Bettys, you can purchase has been nominated as Britain’s best Yorkshire and continental confections Whether you're enjoying a pub lunch, takeaway fish and chips by the sea or an indulgent cream tea, you'll always eat well when you're visiting Yorkshire in the shop, enjoy a relaxing traditional breakfast scheme. Its members are Leeds city boundary, and its wines Taste Trail Yorkshire tea, or hone your culinary skills at the quality inspected accommodation have won awards at local level. With Useful contacts 1. Clow Beck House, Croft-on-Tees cookery school. providers who have made a pubs like The Angel Inn in Hetton 4 The Angel Inn angelhetton.co.uk Wensleydale (pictured) Luxurious accommodation and home Every meal is a treat in Yorkshire. commitment to providing locally and the Woolly Sheep Inn in Skipton Anthony’s Restaurant cooked meals. Traditional, hard cheese made from When you’re looking for a place to sourced produce for your breakfast serving traditional, locally sourced anthonysrestaurant.co.uk cow's or ewe's milk, with a supple, 2. Whitby stay, watch out for establishments plate – think jams and preserves, meals, you won’t be short of a bite to Bettys bettysandtaylors.co.uk crumbly, moist texture and flavours Fish and chips, teatime treats, and a participating in the Deliciouslyorkshire bacon and sausages, honey, breads eat to accompany your wine or pint. Clow Beck House clowbeckhouse.co.uk of wild honey balanced with fresh fabulous coastal setting – there are so and more. You’ll have plenty of David Lishman of Ilkley acidity. Try it alongside a slice of many reasons to visit! (01943) 609436 dark, damp fruit cake. opportunity to indulge at teatime, too, The Devonshire Arms 3. The Farmer’s Cart, Towthorpe The perfect pud Yorkshire Blue Yorkshire’s favourite farm shop. with tables groaning with the region’s Country House Hotel famous curd tarts and fat rascals – and thedevonshirearms.co.uk A traditional, vegetarian blue 4. Bradford 1 Elizabeth Botham & Sons cheese made from sheep’s milk. Croft-on-Tees Whitby 2 of course a pot of Yorkshire tea. Visit Yorkshire’s curry botham.co.uk This cheese was created using capital is home to ! Elizabeth Botham and Sons in Whitby The Farmer’s Cart traditional methods dating back to a large Asian ! ! for biscuits, plum bread and cakes of thefarmerscart.co.uk the early Yorkshire cheeses of the population the highest possible standard – and Farrah’s of Harrogate farrahs.com 11th century. Towthorpe – and a host ! while you’re in town, follow the scent Feversham Arms Hotel Swaledale of restaurants 3 ! fevershamarmshotel.com This classic Yorkshire cheese is serving authentic of oak smoke to Fortune’s for some YORK Fortune’s (01947) 601659 softer than Wensleydale and a little delights. truly fabulous kippers. !- Greens greensofwhitby.com LEEDS KINGSTON-UPON-HULL more moist, with flavours of wild 5. Wakefield 4 - Although the region is best known Henderson’s Relish bracken, along with the acidity England’s best rhubarb Bradford 'Them as eats most pudding gets for its bitter, with Theakston's, Black hendersonsrelish.com typical of Dales cheeses. - 5 most meat.' The exhortation of is grown here. Visit in Sheep Brewery and Timothy Taylor & Leventhorpe Vineyards Coverdale Wakefield Womersley thrifty Yorkshire housewives was January to buy it in (0113) 288 9088 A mild, buttery cheese with a sharp, - 6 guaranteed to ensure that their Co being some of the most popular, its early, rose-pink glory The Star Inn/The Corner Shop clean taste and firm, open texture. hungry families would be too full wine lovers can visit thestaratharome.co.uk – and then get stewing! SHEFFIELD In recent years many of the old of golden, gravy-soaked slabs the country’s most 6. Womersley Crafts and Herbs 5 Womersley Crafts and Herbs cheese recipes have been revived of Yorkshire pud to have much womersley-crafts.co.uk Look for true-flavoured fruit and northerly commercial and new cheeses created in the appetite for the often meagre joint The Woolly Sheep Inn (01756) 700966 herb vinegars and herb jellies here vineyard. The same style. Coverdale can be used that followed. Today, though, it’s Indulge the tastebuds – top chefs swear by them! Leventhorpe Regional information as a table cheese and is very tasty and feast the served alongside the roast – but is From shrimps to kippers, seafood of deliciouslyorkshire.com with apple pie. eyes at Helmsley’s For contact details see Useful contacts none the less delicious for that! Vineyard is a five all sorts is on the plates and menus yorkshirevisitor.com Feversham Arms Hotel acre vineyard within of the region's restaurants

26 For regional recipes go to page 54 For regional events go to page 60 27 East Midlands

Feeling noble? Chatsworth House in Derbyshire is one of Local legends England’s finest stately homes A legacy of flavour Robin Hood poached the King’s deer here, an unknown cook accidentally created the iconic Bakewell pudding, Rachel Green Lincolnshire-based chef Rachel and Britain’s oldest pub awaits a visit Green, Yorkshire TV’s Flying Cook, Look out for famous faces at the Walnut Club in Hathersage has prepared food for prime ith its fascinating history, happily rubs shoulders with Korean Enjoy a heady rum or tequila-based to the sizzle of central America with a ministers and the Royal Family. She’s an enthusiastic promoter of tradition of superb wild glazed halibut and ginger and lime cocktail before venturing through an fine Cuban cigar!) Alternatively, seek the area’s cuisine and produce. and farmed meat, vibrant butter sauce enlivens a classic sea award-winning menu where the vibrant out an oasis of calm at Saltwater at the ‘I am spoilt for choice in the East East Midlands W cities, and bustling market towns, bass. Fusion rules, too, at the Park flavours and colours of the Orient Cornerhouse on Burton Street where Midlands in that I love cooking the East Midlands is a fine foodie Plaza Hotel restaurant Chino Latino. dazzle the senses. (After dinner, return there are stunning views over the city, with meat, and Lincolnshire has destination. Its jealously guarded and the bar staff mix a mean cocktail. outstanding pork and game; culinary traditions still endure today Just in case Northamptonshire is home to Derbyshire lamb is also amazing, as is Nottinghamshire beef. and it’s still possible to sink your teeth Fawsley Hall, recently awarded its into the weighty hot-water crust, third red rosette by the AA. Stay at 'Being close to the coast also means there is a great supply of melting jelly and lush meatiness of a this magnificent Tudor manor house seafood. The south of Lincolnshire traditional Melton Mowbray pork pie and prepare to get your teeth into is renowned for the best asparagus or sip a cup of tanniny builder’s tea traditional and Mediterranean dishes. you could wish for and all sorts of with your Bakewell pud. If this doesn't In Derbyshire, you might well spot a unusual vegetables like chicory and do it for you, however, fine cuisine has celeb at the next table when you lunch celeriac. hit the East Midlands in a big way. at the Walnut Club in Hathersage, ‘The great thing about eating out here is that the ingredients are so In Nottingham, there’s the where sophisticated West End cooking With their dense hot-water crust; good that the food only needs to be perennially popular World Service, succulent filling of pork belly, meets fresh flavours of the rural Peak simply prepared. I like that kind of where rising star Preston Walker shoulder and salt pork; seasoning District. The restaurant uses the best integrity.’ sources the finest ingredients from of sage, thyme, pepper, mace and local organic ingredients to produce We’ll be seeing more of Rachel on the local area and further afield, and lubricating jellied stock, a good healthy and contemporary brasserie- our TV screens during 2006 – her marries traditional British dishes with pork pie is a feast all on its own. style lunches and dinners to remember, new eight-part series Home From Get the real thing at Ye Olde Pie Home airs in September. a dash of Oriental flair. The result Shop in Melton Mowbray. with service that’s unrushed and

visitengland.com is a menu on which black pudding Savour Fawsley Hall’s finest dishes impeccably courteous. W

28 visitengland.com RegionalRegional informationinformation www.visiteastofengland.comwww.visiteastofengland.com ForRegional regional information information enjoyeastmidlands.com go to enjoyeastmidlands.com 29 East Midlands East Midlands

Small wonder that the area’s Curry is hot news Around 1860, in a in Leicestershire Cheese pass notes restaurants send such acclaimed dishes Derbyshire inn, some out from their kitchens – the local visiting noblemen ordered produce really is something special, strawberry tart. Instead of and chefs have a rich culinary tradition stirring the strawberries on which to draw. At farmers’ markets throughout Nottinghamshire, you can into the egg mixture, the lay your hands on local produce from cook absent-mindedly to Thaymar dairy ice spread it over the jam cream. Lincolnshire’s Mount Pleasant – and the classic Bakewell Mill was selected by Rick Stein as Pudding was born one of his ‘Super Food Heroes’. This traditional four-sailed brick tower mill Useful contacts built in 1875 produces wholemeal Batemans of Lincolnshire flour and organic breads using spelt Lincolnshire Poacher bateman.co.uk This hard, unpasteurised cheese and rye as well as wheat. Lincoln Belvoir Fruit Farms Pub grub with a twist at The Olive Branch is made from cow’s milk. It has Grapes ready for wine-making at Welland Valley Vineyard, Market Harborough Red is one of the oldest of the UK’s Organic elderflowers destined to become belvoirfruitfarms.co.uk refreshing cordial from Belvoir Fruit Farms a cylindrical shape and its rind native beef breeds – it can be traced flavours, including vanilla caramel, Bobby's Resaurant eatatbobbys.com resembles granite in appearance. back to the cattle brought across the mint chocolate and malteser. a hefty 23% punch. Get it at the Parish Chino Latino chinolatino.co.uk Taste Trail East Midlands Coghlan's School of Wine, Stilton North Sea by the Vikings. Its flesh is Hungry visitors looking for an Brewery, Leicestershire. Produced to a centuries-old 1. Fernydale Farm, Buxton Food & Dining cookingexpert.co.uk recipe, royal blood surely runs A working dairy farm and B&B in marbled with fat, giving incomparable informal meal are also spoilt for choice. A visit to Nottingham's Ye Olde Fawsley Hall fawsleyhall.com in the blue veins of this ‘King of the stunning Peak District. flavour to steaks, roasts and burgers. Leicester residents love Bobby’s, Trip to Jerusalem, England’s oldest Fernydale Farm (01298) 83236 Jaquest Food Specialist English cheeses’. Interestingly it 2. Ollerton Watermill, Newark A must-visit in Derbyshire is Jaquest a family-run, café-style sweet mart pub, is a must. But if you’re sticking (01246) 827972 has never been produced in the Nottinghamshire’s only working Food Specialist, Chesterfield, which and vegetarian restaurant, serving to the soft stuff, try a glass of Shalai. town of Stilton, but in six dairies 2 Melton Mowbray Market watermill serves award-winning produces smoked fish, smoked meats, traditional Gujurati cuisine and the This non-alcoholic drink is made in meltonmowbraymarket.co.uk in the surrounding area. Buy them afternoon tea. cured hams and sausages. legendary Bobby’s passion fruit Northamptonshire using hibiscus Mount Pleasant Mill at the dairies of Melton Mowbray, 3. Belvoir Fruit Farms If you’re after tasty home cooking drink. The Olive Branch in Rutland flowers. It has significant health trueloafbakery.co.uk Long Clawson, Cropwell Bishop, Classic English elderflower Ollerton Watermill (01623) 822469 Hartington and Colston Bassett. without the effort, Saul’s of Spratton's serves traditional and innovative pub properties, can be drunk hot or cold or cordial is produced using ! Old Elephant Fudge oldelephant.co.uk (pictured) award-winning pies are stick-to-the- food, fine wines and real ales, all at as a mixer and is available in selected traditional techniques. ! The Olive Branch A hard cheese made from cow’s 1 Buxton LINCOLN ! 4. Melton Mowbray Market 2 ribs masterpieces. Try the Diamond affordable prices. cafés and shops across the county. theolivebranchpub.com milk. It has a round shape and a Ollerton pie, which has a diamond of soft turkey If it’s a pint you’re after, you won’t It has even made it to the hallowed Parish Brewery (01664) 454801 bright, orange-red rind. A good One of the country’s oldest markets, ! dating back to 1077. NOTTINGHAM paté in its centre, and is encased in be thirsty for long. Following the shelves of Harrods Food Hall! Saltwater saltwater-restaurant.com Red Leicester has a firm body and a DERBY Belvoir Saul’s of Spratton (01604) 847214 close, flaky texture. The flavour is Every Tuesday 3 melt-in-the-mouth pastry. And if you brewing tradition of the local castle, Want to extend your home cooking and Friday. Shalai shalai.com delicately sweet. 4 Melton Mowbray fancy a sweet treat, Old Elephant there are several micro-breweries in repertoire? Sign up at Coghlan’s School Walnut Club thewalnutclub.com 5. Welland Valley - ! ! Fudge in Market Rasen, Lincolnshire, the Vale of Belvoir while Lincolnshire of Wine, Food and Dining, Chesterfield. Welland Valley Vineyard Vineyard, Market LEICESTER This is a green veined, semi-hard has a mouthwatering range of is home to Batemans of Lincolnshire. Complete novices can whet their (01858) 434591 Harborough cheese with a delightful, mild sage Market World Service 5 Harborough Brave drinkers can appetites with a beginner’s crash flavour. The custom of adding sage Celebrate the taste Stilton cheese: worldservicerestaurant.com ! only six dairies pit themselves course; in two three-hour sessions to began in the 17th of the East Midlands NORTHAMPTON Ye Olde Trip To Jerusalem with a glass of local using the against Baz’s you’ll go from barely knowing what triptojerusalem.com century, when the herb was widely original recipe believed to possess health-giving fizz! 3 - Superbrew, the to do with a tin-opener to confidence Regional information are licensed to eastmidlandsfinefoods.co.uk properties. produce this world’s strongest in the basic steps for creating healthy, For contact details see Useful contacts enjoyeastmidlands.com king of cheeses ale, which packs tasty and attractive food.

30 31 HeartEast of Midlands England

Local legends Straight from

The heat is on! the heart For a quick and inexpensive midweek supper or a fabulous Whether you’re after a late-night balti feast or a celebration meal with friends, you sophisticated gourmet meal, you’ll find it here – and it’s can’t beat a balti – and Birmingham is the place to get the best. all food with soul! Catch up with friends for coffee and a gossip on the waterfront in Birmingham Literally meaning ‘bucket’, the balti is a round-bottomed wok with t’s got everything from buzzing something to get excited about. Try One former member of the Hibiscus recently gained a Michelin star, and handles, in which marinated fresh cosmopolitan cities to charming crisp pork belly with hawthorn and team who has gone it alone is Glynn serves French-influenced modern meat and vegetables are cooked rural villages and miles of beautiful apricot, sea urchin and potato soufflé; Purnell, who has been wowing diners British dishes – try ballotine of foie gras quickly over a high flame, with I extra spices added during cooking. countryside. So it's really no surprise it’s food as fine as you’d find in any in Birmingham since opening Jessica’s with pineapple confit and jelly, and The dish is brought to your table that the region that gave us both luxury Parisian restaurant. in 2003. This popular restaurant vanilla dip potatoes. still sizzling madly. Don’t bother Shakespeare and Lenny Henry should Brummies are spoilt for choice these with cutlery – a balti is traditionally boast a cornucopia of food. Offally nice days – there’s also Simpsons, where scooped up using naan bread or a chapati. Finger licking is allowed!

Heart of England When it comes to the haute stuff, Michelin-starred cuisine is served in you’ll be spoilt for choice. Lucky the chic yet sumptuously comfortable Broaden your culinary horizons Ludlow residents have the best surroundings of an elegant listed when you book a balti break in Birmingham. You'll be taken for a selection of fine dining options outside building. Feast on fish and shellfish, guided tour of the Balti Triangle, London right on their doorstep – no game and poultry – but don’t forget including a visit to a traditional fewer than seven merit listings in to leave room for dessert. You'll need sweet centre, a wide range of shops the prestigious Michelin guide. Two- it when the petit fours trolley comes from textiles to jewellery and the starred Hibiscus is a favourite with Mention faggots to a Black Country around, laden with tempting treats like chance to buy all the essential ingredients to recreate a genuine locals and visitors from further afield. native and you’ll be met with homemade chocolate lollipops! misty-eyed delight. It takes a bit balti at home. See a cookery

‘We want every single person to enjoy Fine dining like this calls for a glass W of courage to take your first bite, demonstration by the city’s leading themselves, regardless of who they are but you might just get hooked! Delicious double Worcester balti chefs, and pick their brains or what they do’, say owners Claude Faggots are made from animal offal, for useful tips and trade secrets. and Claire Bosi. ‘We want them to feel onion, sage and breadcrumbs and Round off the day with an authentic three-course balti meal at one of Delicate hands special and relaxed; we try to make are cooked in a pig’s bladder. The add the finishing the area’s top restaurants. them feel comfortable and at ease’. intensely savoury result is served touches at Bank, Fertile soil and a temperate climate make with bread and green peas. Birmingham Ambience aside, the food here is truly Herefordshire wines something to savour

32 visitengland.com RegionalRegional informationinformation www.visiteastofengland.comwww.visiteastofengland.com ForRegional regional information information enjoyeastmidlands.com go to visitheartofengland.com 33 Heart of England Heart of England

Taste Trail Heart of England Cheese pass notes 1. Stoke-on-Trent Visit the Corrie Guest House for award-winning breakfasts, and stock up on pottery tablewear to take home to your own kitchen while you’re in town. 1 2. Birmingham From Michelin to Madras, there’s something for everyone in England’s second-largest city. Buzzing nightlife and fantastic shopping mean you’ll never be bored on a 3 visit here. 3. Ludlow The Heart of England’s foodie capital. 4. Worcester STOKE-ON Double Worcester Pay a visit to Ansteys for 1 -TRENT Double Gloucester with attitude! a range of gorgeous ! Traditional cider-making skills on show at the Herefordshire Cider Museum A clothbound cheese that has a epicurean goodies. - rich golden colour and a lighter ! Staffordshire oatcakes 5. Malvern Useful contacts texture than cheddar. It is a smooth The liquid equivalent of - are nothing like the matured cheese with a deep mellow pick-your-own! Visitors crisp biscuits the Scots Ansteys ansteys.com flavour. to St Anne’s Well can fill - Bank Birmingham bankrestaurants.com Little Hereford their own containers BIRMINGHAM enjoy with cheese. This Bodenham Vineyard 2 Handmade at Monkland Cheese with legendary 3 Ludlow - traditional substitute for bodenham-english-wines.co.uk Dairy to a traditional Herefordshire Malvern water straight - Bullring Birmingham bullring.co.uk ! bread, local to the Potteries recipe, this cheese is matured from the spring. - Caldicott Farm for three to four months. It has a ! areas of Stoke-on-Trent, is cookawayfoodbreaks.co.uk 6. Hereford 4 Worcester - creamy texture with a dryish finish Stay at stunning Castle Malvern 5 baked with white flour and Castle House Hotel castlehse.co.uk ! and a good lingering flavour. House Hotel, just The Corrie Guest House 6 Hereford oatmeal, and looks like a Innes Button Natural beyond the cathedral. thecorrie.co.uk pancake. It’s stuffed with The Herefordshire Cider Museum A goat’s cheese made at Highlands Top to bottom: Market Drayton street cidermuseum.co.uk Farm Dairy in Tamworth. Described Mixing it up – cocktail time market – a weekly event for over 750 years; various fillings and eaten Hibiscus hibiscusrestaurant.co.uk by cheese connoisseurs as ‘sheer at The Lunar Bar, Worcester crisp young asparagus; cheeses of the world For contact details see Useful contacts rolled up Jessica’s jessicasrestaurant.co.uk perfection’! at Birmingham’s Bullring Market Ludlow Food and Drink Festival Lightwood Chaser of something yummy on the side – but shellfish. If you’re more partial to a Here, as elsewhere in England, come from small farms nearby. The transformed into an astonishing variety the oh-so-trendy parsnip and beetroot the country? Lord Marcus Sandys, not able and need some help in the foodfestival.co.uk Based on the French cheese, forget the other side of the channel pint, the beers from microbreweries there is a huge variety of deliciously restaurant’s own garden is packed of different cures of bacon and flavours varieties, of course!) on a farm near ex-Governor of Bengal, brought his kitchen (or if you just fancy a sneaky Lunar Bar lunarbar.co.uk Chaource, Lightwood Chaser is a Malvern Water malvern-hills.co.uk and ignore the southern hemisphere. throughout the Black Country to fresh local produce – and the region's with herbs. But you don’t need a of sausage by producers such as Leominster, and have rocked the world recipe for curry sauce to the chemist’s foodie weekend away), pay a visit to soft cheese with an elegant white Market Drayton marketdrayton.gov.uk rind. Extra cream gives a smooth, Tiltridge Vineyard in Worcestershire the west of Birmingham are among restaurants take full advantage. The Michelin star to get the same quality Maynard’s Farm Bacon in Shrewsbury. of the country’s crisp lovers. Those emporium of John Lea and William Caldicott Farm, where Cookaway Food Maynard’s Farm maynardsfarm.co.uk light texture and a fresh dairy taste produces fruity summer wines, as the country’s best. Herefordshire is Stagg Inn in Herefordshire sources ingredients and prepare them at Forget factory processing and chemical with a sweet tooth can’t get enough of Perrins in 1835 and Worcestershire Breaks run throughout the year. Learn Simpsons simpsonsrestaurant.co.uk reminiscent of a white Stilton. well as a Méthode Champenoise renowned for its outstanding apple meat and game from local farms home. Mouthwateringly flavoursome additives – traditional methods, gingerbread from Market Drayton and sauce was born! how to transform seasonal produce The Stagg Inn thestagg.co.uk Matured, it will soften and develop bubbly that’s been compared cider and perry (brewed from pears). and estates, while organic fruit and and meltingly tender, Herefordshire unrefined sugar, spices and treacle Shrewsbury cakes. And what’s that By now you have almost certainly into meals to be proud of. You’ll pick Tiltridge Vineyard tiltridge.com a fuller flavour. to France’s finest. Alternatively, And if you’re the designated driver? seasonal vegetables come from beef is a favourite with carnivores and give these beauties their flavour. unmistakable flavour that’s added a been inspired to get your apron on up a host of useful skills, from meal Regional information Bodenham Vineyard’s dry but fruity Stick to a glass of cool, clear water Titley and Pembridge. Organic rare- can be found behind the counters of Tyrrell’s Potato Chips are made kick to cottage pie and a touch of extra and wow friends and family with your planning and preserving to pasta- heff.co.uk visitheartofengland.com Reichensteiner is a perfect partner for fresh from the Malvern Hills. breed pork and home-cured bacon many of the region’s butchers. Pork is from spuds grown specially (except gusto to gravy in kitchens throughout culinary prowess. If you are willing but making and whipping up meringues.

34 For regional recipes go to page 54 For regional events go to page 60 35 EastEast of Midlands England

Cool indulgence for a hot day on the Local legends beach at Aldeburgh

Cromer fishermen First thing in the morning, the beach at Cromer on the North Norfolk coast looks as if giant turtles have been dragging themselves down to the water. These are the marks of the crab Oysters at The King’s Head in Great Bircham; cider apples on the branch, ripe and ready for crushing at Whin Hill Cider, North Norfolk; healthy fruit, freshly juiced in Norwich boats, pulled in and out of the waves by tractors that sit on the sand, awaiting their return. A large Above the salt catamaran, the Laura Ann, surfs in on the tide and is hauled up the A in the beach to unload. Up in a fish shop on Garden Street, Julie Davies is waiting for her son

East of England feast East With its rich farming tradition and bountiful coastal waters, the East of England John, skipper of the Laura Ann and an eighth generation Cromer produces everything from cabbages to crab! crab fisherman, to arrive with the morning’s catch. ‘We used to sell hink of England’s East, and His selection of entrées includes seared puddings include a honey and fish through the front window,’ she foodies think immediately of fillet of black bream with nicoise salad, poppyseed parfait, and local produce says. ‘You still see people down the oysters – and what better way a soft-boiled quail egg and shines in the form of line-caught sea quay selling off stalls. That’s how it T used to be.’ to kick off a gourmet meal than with fritters, or pork cutlet baked ‘en bass and smoked Stour Valley mutton. six (or perhaps a dozen!) of the finest papilotte’ with Jerusalem artichokes, In Cambridge, chef Daniel Clifford Glorious, flaky pyramids of pure The Laura Ann normally hauls up to 15 shanks, or strings of crab pots, and freshest? At The King’s Head in celery, apple and calvados. has earned two Michelin stars for white piquancy, perfect for crumbling over everything from daily. A good average catch would Great Bircham, they’re served either We also love Le Talbooth, a riverside Midsummer House, a handsome foie gras to fish and chips – it’s be 100 crabs from 20 pots – more au naturel or with a champagne jelly restaurant in the heart of Constable Victorian villa in the heart of the city. no wonder that foodies the world if the crabs are smaller – and within – perfect for whetting your appetite. Country. The charming staff, beautiful Indulge yourself with the ten-course over are enjoying a protracted hours they are dressed and on Chef Ben Handley works up innovative setting and to-die-for food make this degustation menu – it includes love affair with Maldon salt. It has ice, or being delivered to nearby restaurants. They are then turned and unfussy delights with locally a real treat to visit. Couples looking cannelloni of red pepper and foie gras, been produced on the banks of the Blackwater river since 1882. Grab into delicious salads, soups or patés, sourced and seasonal products, and for a romantic dinner need look no a cassoulet of monkfish with garlic a supply at good supermarkets and to be enjoyed by the appreciative is earning this reasonably priced further, especially if you share the sausage, and slow-roast fillet of beef delis across the country. locals and hungry tourists alike.

restaurant a reputation for excellence. beef Wellington for two! Praiseworthy with shallot marmalade. W

36 ForRegional regional information information enjoyeastmidlands.com go to visiteastofengland.com 37 East of England East of England

The Crown and Castle in Orford is Useful contacts Cheese pass notes an unpretentious country inn serving Taste Trail East of England Adnams adnams.co.uk lusciously simple food. In summer, look 1. Shrublands Farm, Cromer Childwickbury Goats (01727) 841151 for treats such as dressed Cromer crab This working sugar beet and potato Colman’s Mustard colmans.co.uk salad, Orford with garlic butter, farm has three guest rooms. The Cooking Experience cookingexperience.co.uk Snape asparagus with hollandaise 2. Powters, Newmarket The Crown and Castle sauce, or locally grown loganberries Stock up on traditionally made 2 crownandcastle.co.uk with cream on the menu. In winter, Newmarket sausages, made from The Eagle (01223) 505020 they may tempt you with Suffolk hand-boned prime fresh pork with The Essex Pig Company no artificial colours or flavours. 1 , lentil ragout and wilted Cromer essexpigcompany.com The Farmcafé farmcafe.co.uk greens; slow-roast Gloucester Old Spot 3. Cambridge Pack a picnic and punt down FE Neave and Son feneave.co.uk pork belly with mussels and shellfish the river Cam. ! NORWICH Ferndale Norfolk Farmhouse Cheeses broth; or hot bitter chocolate mousse. (01263) 577640 4. Ferny Hill Tea Ferny Hill Tea Rooms fernyhillfarm.com The East of England is still Rooms, Hadley Wood PETERBOROUGH ! The Food Company predominantly rural, with vast tracts Make your way through Clockwise from thefoodcompany.co.uk the Amazing Maize of farmland producing about a quarter left: one of the The Golden Galleon (01728) 454685 Maze, then indulge ! ! of England’s cereal and half all British 2 ! sunniest corners Greene King greeneking.co.uk Norfolk White Lady (pictured) in a light lunch or 3 CAMBRIDGE Newmarket of England, East Gunns Bakery (01767) 680434 A soft, slightly sharp sheep’s milk sugar beet. Fishing boats still return Orford 6 cream tea. Anglia offers plenty to the beaches laden with fish and IPSWICH JR Creasey (01728) 660219 cheese, handmade in Feltwell 5. The Food of opportunities for The King’s Head shellfish, and these find their way to - near Norfolk. It is made from Company, Mark's - Colchester 5 alfresco dining; a the-kings-head-bircham.co.uk !- unpasteurised milk and is suitable stalls and smokehouses up and down traditional welcome le-talbooth.co.uk Tey, Colchester ! Le Talbooth for vegetarians. This excellent at The Eagle in Maldon Salt maldonsalt.co.uk the coast. Chefs and the public alike are Childwickbury food hall stocks Hadley Wood Cambridge; Le Midsummer House spoilt for choice. CHELMSFORD David and Elizabeth Harris of produce from local 4 Talbooth's stunning midsummerhouse.co.uk The region has also led the way riverside setting; a Childwickbury Goats have a herd suppliers. Mrs Temple’s Cheeses (01328) 820224 when it comes to organic farming, pint of bitter from Powters powters.co.uk of more than 100 goats of different 6. Orford Adnams, Southwold so you can be assured of quality at Shrublands Farm breeds, milked to produce some of You’ll love fresh Orford oysters. the finest cheeses in the county. the farmers’ markets in Aylsham, Ely, 3 broadland.com/shrublands Whin Hill Cider whinhillcider.co.uk Childwickbury is a fresh cheese that Leighton Buzzard, St Albans, Leigh-on- For contact details see Useful contacts Wilkin and Sons tiptree.com is available plain or combined with Sea and Wymondham. W Jordan jordans-cereals.co.uk fresh herbs. At Woburn Abbey, where ten at Holme Mills near Biggleswade since Scott took a supply to the Antarctic. Back in the Middle Ages, in the weeks leading up to Christmas, large flocks of turkeys Woburn Abbey woburnabbey.co.uk Binham Blue species of deer roam the parkland, 1855 when the county was home to Visit the charming village of Leigh- would waddle their way from Norwich to the London markets. Today, organic Norfolk Regional information Made by Mrs Temple’s Cheeses you can purchase delicious, healthy more than 400 mills, and flour milling on-Sea to feast on the fruits of the tastesofanglia.com in Wighton, this is a full-flavoured, Bronze turkeys are reared to the highest standards of welfare – and flavour visiteastofengland.com venison at the gift shop in the grounds. was a competitive industry. Today it surrounding waters. A cornucopia of semi-hard blue cheese, similar in style to Cashel Blue and Stilton Gunns Bakery at Sandy is the home is famous for breakfast cereals and shellfish can be bought and enjoyed foundations of the company. Today bacon. Traditionally ham was sweet- At Wherstead near Ipswich, The or Flora’s Tea Room on the beach in – a perfect partner for port. of the famous Bedfordshire Clanger crunchy bars. Wilkin and Sons has from the little stalls, including cockles, Greene King is the leading pub retailer cured in black treacle, brown sugar and Essex Pig Company keeps a range of Dunwich. And to learn how to prepare Norfolk Dapple – a local delicacy of baked suet pastry been making the world famous Tiptree whelks, shrimps and jellied eels. and ale brewer in the south of England, hot beer – then cooked in the kitchen rare-breed pigs. Snap up sausages and your purchases at home, sign up at Made in the Glaven Valley by with savoury meat at one end, and preserves in Essex for more than 115 In Suffolk, Greene King has been producing Abbot Ale, Greene King copper nested in hay to stop it sticking. dry-cured bacon from the on-site shop. The Cooking Experience in Hadleigh, Ellie Betts of Ferndale Norfolk something sweet (jam) at the other years, while Colman's Mustard brewing beer and operating pubs IPA and Old Speckled Hen. Southwold Hay may be off the menu these days, Visit the Farmcafé near Woodbridge, Suffolk, where hands-on courses are Farmhouse Cheeses, this is an – a complete meal in one in Norwich has been a for over 200 years. It was in 1799 is home to Adnams, which has been but you can still buy magnificent hams Suffolk, for meals made with locally designed to be inspirational, great fun, unpasteurised, clothbound hard cheese in the style of a young A full pint, a full handy parcel. household name since that Benjamin Greene first moved producing beer since 1872. at traditional village butchers FE Neave sourced products – game dishes are a satisfying, relaxing and informative. plate and a good Cotherstone, with a delicate, friend – what more The family firm of W Aw, shucks! Fresh oysters to Bury St Edmunds to establish his A visit to Suffolk would not be and Son at Debenham or JR Creasey in speciality. If you need a quick chip fix, You’ll leave with a store of techniques grassy flavour. can you ask for? Jordan has been milling begging to be opened own brewing business, laying the complete without a taste of ham and Peasenhall. try the Golden Galleon in Aldeburgh, and tips for impressive entertaining.

For regional recipes go to page 54 For regional events go to page 60 39 East MidlandsLondon

Living the high life at Vertigo, Tower 42, Local legends the lights of London laid out at your feet London

Borough Market It’s an indication of how seriously food is taken in London that Borough Market has become extremely popular with locals and Tradition rules at Simpsons in the Strand; hot food on the menu in Green Lanes, Haringey; crisp-skinned ducks at a Chinatown restaurant; the glamorous Four Seasons hotel in Mayfair visitors to the city. Thousands flock and all they want to do is make their to London Bridge every Saturday, The eel thing guests happy! London is the world’s and are happy to queue patiently best place to eat.’ It’s no surprise for as long as it takes to get their hot chorizo sandwich, wild as London boasts an astonishing 40 woodland mushrooms, homemade Capital Michelin star-rated restaurants, and chocolate truffles, smoked eel or dining out has long been a favourite organic wild boar sausages. The pastime of lucky London residents. new Roast restaurant overlooking A list of London’s chefs reads like the market, which serves classic London eating doesn’t get much Brtitish cuisine, is also proving a big more authentic than jellied eels. the Who’s Who of fine dining. There’s hit with London foodies. Mark Edwards (Nobu Berkeley), pleasures Once you’ve got your head around But it is when most of us are asleep the idea – and your fork around the Tom Aikens, Angela Hartnett (The that the market is at its busiest. It’s official – nowhere in the world can you eat as well bones – these can be delicious, and Connaught), Gordon Ramsay, Jamie A typical wholesale trader’s day although they’re becoming hard Oliver (Fifteen), Richard Corrigan starts at around two in the morning. to find, there are still shops in the and as diversely as in London. The capital’s scores of (Lindsay House), Giorgio Locatelli Throughout the night, trucks East End where you can get them. transport fresh fruit and vegetables dining options just cry out to be explored... if only there (Locanda Locatelli), Atul Kochar Even if you don’t acquire the taste, from producers to await the arrival were time to try them all! you’ll pick up some rhyming slang! (Benares), Gary Rhodes and Marcus of customers: greengrocers, Wareing (Petrus). In addition to these restaurateurs and hoteliers from the ondon’s multicultural modern Italian; food from India, experimental, to be sampled in great household names, a host of up-and- City, West End and the South East. communities have endowed Pakistan, Bangladesh and Sri Lanka; venues or gastronomic pubs. coming chefs and venues appear Borough Market is open to the the city’s restaurants with Ethiopian, Egyptian, Nigerian and In March 2005, Gourmet magazine in weekly newspaper review pages public on Fridays from noon until L six o’clock, and on Saturdays from very distinctive flavours, ingredients Moroccan delicacies; Lebanese nominated London the best place to presenting Londoners with an ever- nine through to four o’clock. There and spices. You will find classic and Persian dishes; Argentinian, eat in the world right now. Editor-in- changing plethora of dining options. are some 70 stalls selling a vast and avant-garde French; Chinese, Mexican and Colombian meals; and of chief Ruth Reichl said: ‘This city is filled One to watch is Galvin, an elegantly array of gourmet goodies.

Thai and Japanese; traditional and course, British food – traditional and with chefs at the top of their powers, upmarket bistro serving classic French W

40 ForRegional regional information information enjoyeastmidlands.com go to visitlondon.com 41 London

Southall is the food at its finest – the steak tartare is Divan, serving traditional British food sugar roses for cake decorating to If your passion for food is only exceeded by your weakness Useful contacts Cheese pass notes capital's capital of up there with the best. South of the such as roast beef and lamb; and seasonal game and fish is the norm. for gadgets, you’ll love Divertimenti. With stores on Indian cuisine, from Absolut Ice Bar belowzerolondon.com the tandoori to the river, the Greyhound in Battersea may Simply Simpson’s, serving eclectic Business is booming once again Marylebone High Street and Brompton Road, as well as an Amaya (020) 7823 1166 tikka masala be off the beaten track, but it’s worth modern British dishes. for local butchers, fishmongers, online shop, this retailer stocks a range of bakeware, cutlery, The Anchor & Hope (020) 7928 9898 the trip – the most jaded reviewers With all these options on their cheese emporia and specialist ethnic electrical goods and more to keep you browsing for hours Asian & Oriental School of Catering have been won over by this little doorstep, it’s a wonder Londoners delicatessens. Even in central London, spice-train.com gem. Boasting unrivalled views over ever actually cook a meal at home. thriving farmers’ markets are held Benares benaresrestaurant.com Hyde Park, Foliage combines striking But not only are supper parties and in Borough, Islington, Marylebone, Billingsgate Seafood Training School seafoodtraining.org contemporary design with an intimate, simple home cooking trendier than Notting Hill, Paddington and Pimlico. Borough Market boroughmarket.org.uk unstuffy ambience. Executive chef ever, Londoners are constantly on the London’s gastropub scene is also China Tang thedorchester.com David Nicholls creates inspirational lookout for more convenient, more livelier than ever. Since the opening The Cinnamon Club cinnamonclub.com modern European cuisine using only authentic, and more ethical ways to of the first, The Eagle in Farringdon, Comptoir Gascon (020) 7608 0851 the freshest seasonal ingredients. shop. Everyone who’s anyone has a scores of others have followed, and Divertimenti divertimenti.co.uk Take your pick from two restaurants weekly organic vegetable box delivery; standards of service and cuisine are The Eagle (020) 7837 1353 Foliage mandarinoriental.com at Simpsons in the Strand: the Grand online ordering of everything from generally excellent. Try Meum Cor in Fortnum & Mason Fulham, a new arrival on the gastro fortnumandmason.com Taste Trail London scene, and The Princess in Shoreditch, Four Seasons Hotel as well as tried and trusted favourites Clockwise from top left: Rasoi Vineet Bhatia, eclectic Indian cuisine in Sloane Square; fourseasons.com/london Neal’s Yard (pictured) 1. Brick Lane, E1 like the Anchor and Hope near London Villandry, modern British food with gourmet foodstore; bustling Harvey Nichols' Fifth Floor La Fromagerie lafromagerie.co.uk Galvin galvinbistrotdeluxe.co.uk The original Covent Garden shop, A host of curry houses vie for your Bridge. Deli dining is on the increase custom in the evenings – or try the Goddard’s Pie House pieshop.co.uk which opened in 1979, is still a best bagels in London. too – you can shop and eat in the same The Greyhound at Battersea favourite with many cheese lovers. thegreyhoundatbattersea.co.uk A huge range of cheeses is on 2. Zetter, Clerkenwell space, with many of the foods on offer 3 also featured on the menu. Pascal Hamish Johnson (020) 7738 0741 offer, most of them from small UK Boutique hotel with a fabulous producers. restaurant that offers seasonal, Aussignac’s Comptoir Gascon and Harvey Nichols’ Fifth Floor ! harveynichols.com Paxton & Whitfield modern Italian food. ! Flaneur, both in Clerkenwell, are two of Brick Lane Meum Cor (020) 7385 8001 For over 200 years Paxton & 3. Absolut Ice Bar, Regent 2 1 the best. Further afield are the delightful Clerkenwell ! ! Neal’s Yard nealsyarddairy.co.uk Whitfield has pursued a passion for Regent Street Street 3 CANARY Villandry in Marylebone, Orrery Epicerie Orrery Epicerie conran-restaurants.co.uk cheese. The company sources and With walls, bar and tables made ! 4 WHARF Piccadilly 5 and The Parlour at Sketch. The Parlour at Sketch sketch.uk.com matures exceptional cheeses, and from ice this is where the cool London Bridge The influence of Pan-Asian cuisine Paxton & Whitfield stocks a wide range of hams, patés, crowd hangs out! paxtonandwhitfield.co.uk preserves, wine and oils. ! remains very strong, and the recent 4. Fortnum & Mason, W1 Greenwich ! Rasoi Vineet Bhatia vineetbhatia.com 6 La Fromagerie ! arrival of Taiwan Village and China Benares Kitchen, for those wanting to skills. The Asian and Oriental School The ground floor food hall is a Roast roast-restaurant.com Discover, eat and cook the world’s favourite with London gourmets, Tang at the Dorchester suggest that learn more about Indian cooking and of Catering is one of the first schools The Princess (020) 7729 9270 best cheeses at the branches in not least for its fabulously over- this trend is set to continue. Indian the secrets behind Atul Kochhar’s great dedicated to Asian and Oriental food Simpsons in the Strand Islington and Marylebone. The the-top interior. restaurants Amaya, Rasoi Vineet food. Head to Billingsgate Seafood in London. Led by skilled professionals fairmont.com/svy/simpsons violet and lemon goat’s cheese is a Taiwan Village taiwanvillage.com 5. Vinopolis, London Bridge Bhatia, Benares, The Cinnamon Training School in the Docklands for including expert chef Terry Tan, these particular favourite. Vertigo vertigo42.co.uk Great value tasting packages and Hamish Johnson Club and Zaika continue to reinforce a masterclass with Steve courses are sure to satisfy an amateur Villandry villandry.com tours at this museum of all things This south London shop is well London’s passion for this great food. Pini, head chef of interest in Thai Vinopolis vinopolis.co.uk wine-related. worth a visit – charming service, If you want to hone your own skills in Fishmonger’s Hall cookery. Zaika zaika-restaurant.co.uk 6. Goddard’s Pie House, Greenwich a wide selection and its proximity Zetter thezetter.com The oldest pie and mash restaurant in the kitchen, you don’t necessarily have – you’ll learn to Clapham’s excellent market and Greenwich, near the Cutty Sark tea clipper. to be subjected to a tirade of abuse invaluable fish Buy food Regional information butchers make it a winner. from around 6 from Gordon Ramsay on live television! preparation toptable.co.uk For contact details see Useful contacts the globe in visitlondon.com The capital’s cookery schools include and cooking London

For regional recipes go to page 54 For regional events go to page 60 43 South West England

Sea breezes spice up a picnic Left to right: at Constantine Bay, fresh, local produce Local legends on sale at Bridport Market; perfect fish and chips the Rick Stein way; a bumper harvest of delicious, juicy strawberries

Cattle fat and sleek on rich grass; sparkling waters bustling with seafood; orchards whose branches bow under the weight of their fruit – this is the bounty of the South West Cottage industry Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall is widely known as a writer, broadcaster and campaigner, and for his uncompromising From nature’s larder commitment to real food. His series for Channel 4, most t stretches from the charmingly the kitchen of John Burton-Race had will generously repay a visit. The recently The View from River Cottage, bucolic Cotswold counties of us all rooting for the survival of the Hole in the Wall in beautiful Bath Golden, delicious... have earned him a huge popular Gloucestershire and Wiltshire to New Angel restaurant in Dartmouth has recently been taken over by new following. Although he didn’t train I as a chef, Hugh did work for a brief Land’s End in Cornwall. The remote, (which has not only survived but management. Head chef Gerry Dowd, stint at the River Cafe – although, almost tropical Scilly Isles across the thrived, and now holds a Michelin who’s worked with the Roux brothers, he says, he had to leave because he water are a delightful bonus while star). Rick Stein’s love of local produce Peter Chandler, John Burton-Race was too messy! historic Bath and Bristol add both and traditional ingredients – and and Richard Shepherd, offers modern It’s his down-to-earth, back-to- elegance and style. The South West his ever-present four-legged friend British dining, strongly themed on basics approach to cooking that has South West England has something for everyone, not least – warmed our hearts. And Jamie West Country produce. Everything is made him so popular with those of lovers of fine food and drink. Oliver, whose championing of healthier made on site, including breads and ice us who want to know how to find A visit to the South West wouldn’t Those of us who like nothing school dinners made the nation’s creams, and the constantly changing good food and prepare it simply, so be complete without a cream tea of its quality shines through. better than curling up on the sofa to mums cheer, opened a branch of his set lunch menu is a bargain at under a pillowy scones, strawberry jam and Hugh is evangelical about changing watch the latest cookery programme headline-grabbing Fifteen restaurant in tenner. clotted cream. This rich local treat the way meat is farmed, and the is made by heating normal cream (perhaps with a glass of something Newquay in May 2006. Chipping Campden has often been way we shop for it. His ideas have to evaporate some of the liquids. cold and a plate of something fresh But while their establishments called England’s loveliest village. On converted many home cooks to Its high proportion of butter fat using outdoor-reared, rare-breed from the oven), are no strangers to the draw a host of visitors from around the main street of honey-coloured gives it a pale yellow colour, often and organic meat. area’s celebrity chefs. The mercurial the country and beyond, there are stone buildings, you’ll find Cotswold topped with a deeper yellow crust.

visitengland.com temperament and virtuoso skills in scores of others in the region that House Hotel. It’s loved as much for its W

44 Regional information www.visiteastofengland.com For regional information go to visitsouthwest.co.uk 45 South West England South West England

Taste Trail South West England Useful contacts Cheese pass notes Ashburton Cookery School 1. James Chocolates, Bristol ashburtoncookeryschool.co.uk James Hutchins uses the finest chocolate to craft The Bath Priory Hotel delicious and witty handmade chocolate gifts. thebathpriory.co.uk 2. Sally Lunn’s, Bath Cotswold House cotswoldhouse.com A quaint old house in Bath is the setting 3 The Drewe Arms thedrewearms.co.uk for this tea shop and museum. Don’t leave Fifteen fifteencornwall.co.uk without trying one of the eponymous buns! The George and Dragon (01380) 723053 The Grange cookeryatthegrange.co.uk 3. Somerset Distillery, Martock The Hole in The Wall Superb varieties of apple are transformed theholeinthewall.co.uk into a range of traditional cider brandies Hoops Inn hoopsinn.co.uk and eau-de-vie. James Chocolates bar-chocolat.com 4. Purbeck Ice Cream, Wareham, Dorset The Mansion House The oldest house in Bath is home to the Delicious ice cream in tantalising flavours - themansionhouse.co.uk world famous 'Sally Lunn Bun' – try gin and orange, champagne and strawberry, Morph-S (0117) 929 4888 or intriguing chilli, black pepper and nutmeg The New Angel thenewangel.co.uk elegant, high-tech bedrooms as for its BRISTOL Cheddar (pictured) flavours. - Noel Arms noelarmshotel.com fabulous restaurants: Juliana’s for fine 1 2 Bath Above: trendy Bristolians love Morph-S for Mediterranean food; below: the perfect way to Occombe Farm What can we say – it’s the single 5. St Martin’s on the Isle dining and Hicks’ Brasserie for more spend a summer's day, eating and drinking at the Sloop Inn, St Ives, Cornwall countryside-trust.org.uk/Occombe/ most popular cheese in the world! The Scilly Isles are worth a Purbeck Ice Creams Visitors to the Cheddar Gorge informal meals. Pop across the road to - Martock ! visit for so many reasons: If you’re not from Bristol, purbeckicecream.co.uk queue patiently to get the genuine the Noel Arms for pub food with an the glorious climate, 3 Rick Stein rickstein.com ! you’ve probably never heard article: pale cream coloured, slightly Oriental twist! stunning Tresco Abbey ! The Riverside Restaurant crumbly, with a sharp taste that Wareham thefishrestaurant-westbay.co.uk In Poole, Dorset, the beautiful Gardens, and the EXETER of Mendip Oggies, but if increases as it matures. superb food and 4 St Martins on the Isle cherry-panelled dining room of The you come upon these little stmartinshotel.co.uk Dorset Blue Vinny accommodation at PLYMOUTH ! Sally Lunn’s sallylunns.co.uk One of the most famous cheeses of Mansion House is the setting for this luxury hotel. pasties, made with pork, 5 Sloop Inn sloop-inn.co.uk the South West, this is a hard cow’s memorable meals. Try lamb and black ! apple, cheese pastry and Somerset Distillery ciderbrandy.co.uk milk cheese from the Sherbourne pudding sausage with warm lentils or with a slight spicy kick, snap Think England thinkengland.co.uk valley. It’s made from skimmed milk, shiraz-glazed breast of duck them up – they’re delicious! Three Choirs Vineyard and has a fat content of between with red wine risotto and 5 Having fun learning three-choirs-vineyards.co.uk 40 and 46 per cent – all the more roasted onions – and let Isles of Scilly the tricks of the Regional information reason to eat lots! trade at Ashburton indulgesouthwest.co.uk yourself be tempted by Cookery School tasteofthewest.co.uk the excellent selection of For contact details see Useful contacts visitsouthwest.co.uk Traditionally sold wrapped in edible comforting puds. Another nettle leaves, this moist cheese is fresh and creamy with a gentle tang. must-visit in Dorset is the This is local sourcing at its best, with iridescent with the colours of the sea; throughout the South West, but the fruit and vegetables, free-range eggs, The region’s pubs make use of this the traditional batter coating, fried that run by Rick Stein in Padstow. are based around fundamental cookery It can be matured for up to two Riverside Restaurant, fish and seafood simply presented and or the robust pink flesh of rare-breed, award for ‘Most Marvellous Market’ smoked trout, and much more. In outstanding produce, too. The George to golden perfection and wrapped in The Bath Priory hotel offers the techniques and methods that can be months, which will give it a smoother Bridport, where even the perfectly fresh. outdoor-reared pork? But farmers’ went to Gloucester’s. Held every Torquay, pay a visit to Think England, and Dragon in Rowde, Wiltshire, newspaper, and perhaps accompany opportunity to learn skills like dinner applied whether you’re working in a texture and more musty flavour. dazzling views over the The ingredients that inspire some markets aren’t only an opportunity Friday, it has a range of produce a brand new deli focusing on English serves fabulous game from nearby your meal with a glass of wine from the party menus, entertaining at home, professional kitchen or entertaining at Bath Soft Cheese river and out to sea aren’t of England’s finest chefs are only too to stock your kitchen with the finest befitting a city, from samosas to apple food. Manager Hilary Mabbutt has estates. The Drewe Arms gives locally Three Choirs Vineyard, Gloucestershire. canapés and petits fours preparation, home. At The Grange in Somerset they A creamy white locally produced enough to distract from easy to lay your own hands on. Who ingredients – they’re an ethical way juice, farmhouse cheese and sausages created a cutting-edge deli/cafe caught Devon seafood a Scandinavian With all this on offer, it’s no surprise cooking with shellfish, bread making concentrate on the techniques and cheese. Made by Graham Padfield from unpasteurised cow's milk at the quality of the cuisine. wouldn’t be tempted by an array of to shop and a way of supporting local to Thai ready meals. There are plants and wine tasting area. In Paignton, touch. Bideford’s Hoops Inn uses that eager foodies flock to the South and pastry work in a Michelin-starred methods involved in cookery. Here you Kelston near Bath. Bath Soft is cheeses, golden-hued as Cotswold producers, by extension benefitting an for the garden, fresh herbs, locally Occombe Farm is an upmarket herbs, fruit and vegetables grown in West to improve their culinary kitchen. Voted best cookery school will also learn about the tremendous Sample a glass of wine (or a vegetarian cheese, similar to a two?) at the Three Choirs stone; apples in shades from vivid entire community. What’s not to like? reared meat, goat’s cheeses, freshly farmshop/cafe, surrounded by its own gardens. And don’t forget to skills. The area is home to a host of for skills in BBC Good Food Magazine, range of ingredients available, and mellow brie. Vineyard, Newent green to delicate rose; mackerel There are farmers’ markets baked bread and pastries, seasonal gorgeous walking country. sample some locally caught fish, given outstanding cookery schools, not least Ashburton Cookery School’s courses food from around the world.

46 For regional recipes go to page 54 For regional events go to page 60 47 South East England The Local legends secret garden Gary Rhodes Raymond Blanc's Manoir aux Quat' Saisons: one of England's most acclaimed restaurants From orchards and oast houses to seafaring towns, Michelin-starred chef Gary Rhodes Waterside Inn. Here you can indulge Oxfordshire serves modern French is a familiar face, having presented abundant forest game to world-renowned restaurants, your tastebuds and your waistline with food in a stunning 15th-century manor several television series including Gary Rhodes’ Cookery Year and South East England delights the eye, nose and tastebuds dishes such as pan-fried escalope of house. If you believe in getting your Rhodes Around Britain. foie gras with a thin slice of homemade offspring started on fine food young, – and there is plenty to do between meals ‘Everyone should quench their thirst gingerbread, served with the juice of the restaurant’s three-course children’s with this region’s soft, fruity apple ll the regions of England can Tables are hard to come by, so pickled damsons and a few cranberries. menu is the way forward! juice or sip the fine sparkling wine claim outstanding restaurants, when you do get a booking, make Another French chef who has become While Blumenthal, Blanc and Roux available from the many vineyards. Abut only one can justly the most of your visit to Bray and a local luminary is Raymond Blanc, are household names, there are many 'Fish lovers must try Whitstable shellfish at a restaurant next to boast that it is home to the best in the dine also at Michel Roux’s three-star whose Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons in restaurants around the South East that W world. The charming village of Bray the sea; fishermen hold a July Tart with a heart festival to celebrate the famous in Berkshire has been put on the map oysters. Meat lovers will revel in for gourmets around the globe since the tender lamb from Romney The Fat Duck was awarded Restaurant Marsh, spiced with the subtle tang magazine’s coveted Restaurant of the of salted breezes. Year award in 2005, and it’s worth every ‘New Forest game and fungi are glimmer of its three Michelin stars. piled high in farmers’ markets,

South East England along with ’s peppery Heston Blumenthal works molecular dark watercress. Make sure you magic in the kitchen here, producing don’t miss artisan smokers such as dazzlingly innovative combinations of the Weald Smokery in East Sussex, flavour and texture, including bacon If you’ve got a yen for something where they smoke their foods over sweet and not much time on your and egg ice cream, sardine on toast slow fires of oak logs harvested in hands, Gypsy Tart is the answer. nearby forests. sorbet, and of course snail porridge This traditional Kent favourite has ‘And from May to October, “pick (and we can vouch for the fact that this just three ingredients: a sweet your own” farms have many short-crust pastry, dark muscovado last dish is not as sinister as it sounds different fruit and vegetables. It sugar and evaporated milk. It’s a – a delicious oat risotto, teamed with perhaps comes as no surprise that I Kent's fertile soil nourishes cinch to make and delicious served have made my home in this region.’ hops, apples and a the earthy pungency of the escargots. with a fruit coulis. visitengland.comcornucopia of other fruit It’s to die for). Oysters au naturel in Whitstable, and served with passion fruit jelly at The Fat Duck in Bray

48 Regional information www.visiteastofengland.com For regional information go to visitsoutheastengland.com 49 South East England

A quick clean and a few also offer superb dining experiences. Sussex, has a light and airy interior The South East England Wine Trail, The annual Isle of minutes’ steaming in Useful contacts Cheese pass notes white wine and shallots, Thackeray’s in Tunbridge Wells is and serves trademark dishes such as created by English Wine Producers Wight garlic festival and these beauties will housed in a grade II listed building haunch of venison with puy lentils and and available as a map or online, lists celebrates every aspect Blackburne & Haynes (01428) 712155 be ready to eat and offers superlative food, wine and bordelaise sauce. 20 vineyards that produce chardonnay, The Blue Dolphin (01424) 425778 of this glorious bulb. Brogdale brogdale.org service that help create a magical and In addition to iconic restaurants, the pinot noir and pinot blanc. Try Taste pungent products Chiltern Valley chilternvalley.co.uk memorable dining experience. The South East has a plethora of produce sparkling Chapel Down from Tenterden from mussels and other Denbies Wine Estate Vineyard at Stockcross is not only a that is unmistakeably its own. In the Vineyard in Kent, or the Curious Grape denbiesvineyard.co.uk stylish place to stay, but its restaurant New Forest there are mushrooms pinot noir. Ridgeview in Sussex also seafood to bread, beer, The Fat Duck fatduck.co.uk offers exciting flavour combinations galore, as well as furred and feathered produces award-winning fizz, while ice cream and sausages, George Gales & Co gales.co.uk High Weald Dairy highwealddairy.co.uk using local and often organic produce. game. Along the coast, you can feast Denbies Wine Estate in Surrey makes and shop for local arts The Isle of Wight Garlic Festival In the picturesque fishing village of on oysters, cockles and whelks. Think good quality chardonnay (and there's and crafts as well thegarlicfarm.co.uk Emsworth, Hampshire, overlooking the Dover sole, peppery watercress from a great B&B on the estate). Wine from Jeremy’s Restaurant bay area, you’ll find Restaurant 36 on Hampshire, Kentish cobnuts, Romney the Wickham Vineyard in Hampshire jeremysrestaurant.co.uk Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons the Quay – unsurprisingly the fish and Marsh lamb – even sticky Banoffee is of such fine quality that it’s served in manoir.com shellfish served here are outstanding. pie originated here! But it’s perhaps no less august an environment than the Luxters luxters.co.uk Oxford Blue This vegetarian blue cheese made Approached via a cobbled courtyard, aficionados of beer and wine who get House of Commons. were planted in 1982 on the slopes If you’re vexed by venison or don’t Oxford Fine Food.oxfordfinefood.com from cow’s milk was created in Jeremy’s Restaurant in Borde Hill, the best deal. Discover the heritage behind the of the Chiltern Hills, surrounded by know what to do with Dover sole, Ridgeview Wine Estate ridgeview.co.uk 1993 as an alternative to Stilton. It's art of traditional brewing at George beech woodland and overlooking place yourself in the hands of the Shakeaway shakeaway.com creamy with a distinct blue flavour; Gales, a Victorian working brewery the beautiful Hambleden Valley near professionals. Who better to turn to Shepherd Neame Brewery experts point out its hints of dark Taste Trail South East England in Horndean, Hampshire. Set in an Henley-on-Thames. Shepherd Neame than Raymond Blanc himself? The shepherd-neame.co.uk chocolate and white wine. We just 1. Blackburne & Haynes, Headley area of outstanding natural beauty, Brewery in Faversham is Britain’s oldest master chef runs courses at Le Manoir South East England Wine Trail love it as an after-dinner treat! buylocalfood.co.uk An organic herd produces milk for the delicious dairy Luxters is home to Chiltern Valley brewery. Pay a visit and see how beer aux Quat' Saisons ranging in length Sussex Slipcote products on sale. Tante Marie tantemarie.co.uk A soft-textured ewe’s milk cheese Wines, including its vineyard, winery, is made from barley to bottle and from from one to four days, taking in the Tenterden Vineyard 2. Shakeaway, Brighton with a history that goes back to brewery and cellar shop. The first vines hop to hand pump. selection and preparation of a wide chapeldownwines.co.uk If it tastes good, they’ll turn it into a milkshake! Shakespearean times. It is produced range of foods. Alternatively, decide Thackerays thackerays-restaurant.co.uk by High Weald Dairy and comes 3. The Blue Dolphin, The Vineyard at Stockcross A visit to Brighton wouldn't on a specialised course and learn to plain or with various flavours, Hastings the-vineyard.co.uk including garlic and cracked Pop in for fabulous be complete without fish and cook the perfect Christmas dinner, Waterside Inn waterside-inn.co.uk chips on the beach peppercorn. fish and chips, and update your repertoire with a little Weald Smokery wealdsmokery.co.uk Crockhamdale stroll along the fusion cooking or create exciting Wickham Manor Farm A hard, unpasteurised sheep’s seafront while you eat. dishes packed with perfectly balanced wickhammanor.co.uk OXFORD - 1 milk cheese from Kent. Similar to 4. Wickham Manor Wickham Vineyard nutritional goodness. In Woking, wickhamvineyard.co.uk Wensleydale, it is sweet, crumbly- Farm, Winchelsea Surrey, Tante Marie, the largest textured, and becomes stronger and B&B or self-catering Restaurant 36 on the Quay - 5 36onthequay.co.uk spicier as it matures. - independent cordon bleu cookery accommodation is - - Faversham available. ! - school in the UK, has been training the Regional information Twineham Grange Farmer’s Hand buylocalfood.co.uk Marketed as Parmesan until Brussels 5. Brogdale, 1 Headley world’s top cooks since 1954. With Winchelsea distinctivecountryinns.co.uk intervened, this is an Italian-style Faversham, Kent ! a wide range of cookery courses on Hastings 4 visitsoutheastengland.com hard cheese that’s delicious used in Home to the SOUTHAMPTON 3 offer, Tante Marie is equally popular cooking or nibbled on its own. - 2 Brighton largest collection with career cooks, gap year students of varieties of fruit tree in the world. and enthusiastic amateurs.

For contact details see Useful contacts Exciting vintages available for tasting at Wickham Vineyard

26 For regional recipes go to page 54 For regional events go to page 60 51 Advertising feature EastIsle Midlandsof Wight

Dining at the contemporary Wellington Hotel in Ventnor Isle of Wight

Queen Victoria’s Osborne House – Isle of Wight history with a great restaurant too; one of many traditional island pubs; views of the Solent from the Michelin-starred George Hotel in Yarmouth; St Catherine’s Oratory on the Downs Gastronomic Isle of Wight The Isle of Wight has always been proud of its food A selection of pubs, restaurants Travelling to the Isle of Wight is easy restaurant and pub menus and ask and the new influx of hoteliers and restaurateurs and tearooms have been chosen with Red Funnel, after all we have been for information on our Gardens & to participate in a new Quality running our ferry service for over 140 Vineyards packages (see website), have provided a new, demanding market for locally Award scheme for the Island which years and now offer the largest and which include wine tasting. grown ingredients assesses their overall quality of newest vehicle ferries to cross Whatever you love most about food and service. Assessors paid the Solent. a short break, you can find it all on t’s no coincidence that both the delicious cooked and prepared foods. particular attention to the quality and Our dedicated Holidays the Isle of Wight. Why not discover Island’s Garlic Farm and Godshill Brading, a couple of miles inland presentation of food, enthusiastic and department offers a range of over some of the Island’s gastronomic IOrganics (growers and sellers of from Bembridge, is the chief wine- friendly service and high standards of 120 accommodation options, car hire, secrets in 2006? organic everything!) have just opened producing area, with sunny, south- cleanliness; this initiative was one of taxi transfers, activities, event and South East England larger shops and that every year facing slopes planted with vines (why the first in the UK and has a proved to attraction tickets and more. Prices start To find out more and for a new signs go up in the hedgerows else would the Romans have settled be a huge success. from as little as £61 per person for FREE holiday brochure call advertising small scale produce, from here?) and you can find Island wines in As well as being great for foodie two nights B&B accommodation, 0870 458 6391 or visit vegetables and honey to home-made many of the pubs and restaurants. treats, the Isle of Wight makes an ideal including return vehicle ferry crossing www.redfunnel.co.uk jam and cakes. Bembridge is where most of the choice for those just to looking to get from Southampton to East Cowes. There are several significant growing fresh fish and seafood comes from, away and relax. Wherever you choose If you prefer to plan your own break areas on the Island. Godshill, in the particularly crab and lobster. It has an to stay there are always spectacular simply book in advance and online to rolling, wooded valleys just south of underwater shelf, The Ledge which locations all within easy reach. get our cheapest ferry crossings. Prices Newport, produces a lot of vegetables juts out into the Solent and catches the Everything from idyllic beaches and for a short break start from as little as (including the famous tomatoes) and cool waters from the Atlantic. Many nature reserves to cosy pubs and £35.98 for a car and up to four people. visitengland.com has a number of companies creating working boats moor in the harbour. chic retreats. Look out for local ingredients on

52 www.redfunnel.co.ukRegional information enjoyeastmidlands.com 53 England's Northwest, North East England and Yorkshire RegionalEast Midlands recipes

Craster Kippers with Newcastle Brown Ale Bread This simple breakfast dish makes the most of two uniquely North Eastern ingredients

You will need put the required number of kippers Regional 4 Craster kippers (heads and tails removed) in a jug, 4 small knobs of butter fill with boiling water, cover and stand for about eight minutes, 4 slices of Newcastle Brown Ale or granary bread depending on the size and number of kippers. Drain them well and serve. lemon wedges to serve Produced by Thomsons of Westerhope Village, Newcastle recipes Dot the kippers with the butter and Brown Ale Bread is made from place them under a preheated grill premium fine brown flour with for five to ten minutes until heated malted wheat grains. The special The chef's Bring back the magical memories through. Place on top of fresh brown ingredient is the world famous notebook of your last holiday with these easy bread and serve with a squeeze of Newcastle Brown Ale, which is Sweet lemon juice. pastry is brewed locally at the Federation and liable to t fragile recipes from around England s An alternative method for cooking rol led. Inst ear wh The chef' Brewery, on the banks of the Tyne. ead en the kippers is to 'jug' them. Simply the pastry i , shape notebook you sau nto a thick ike the meat sage, wrap in cling If you l naturally film and eat to be as mb it thinly andchi ll.use Thenthe slice as possible, la reared ven slices to oice – e li Lancashire Hotpot is a good ch is not Yorkshire Curd Tart ne your tin. supermarket lamb y vely farmed. Do buve Rich and gorgeous, this is Yorkshire’s version of a A real winter warmer, this intensi gh, and sa traditional favourite from the British, thou cheesecake. Serve as an after-dinner treat or as part Northwest is simplicity itself to make food miles! of an extravagant Yorkshire high tea You will need Preheat the oven to 170C. Heat You will need egg. Chill until needed. To make 900g neck of lamb chops the oil in a large frying pan and 120g plain flour the curds, heat the milk until almost 1 tbsp cooking oil brown the lamb chops and kidneys 30g icing sugar boiling and add the juice of half to in batches. Sauté the onions in the one lemon, enough to curdle the butter 60g butter same pan. Stir in the flour, then milk. Allow it to stand until cool, 4 lamb’s kidneys, skinned, cored add the hot stock and Lea & Perrins 2 eggs, beaten and drain through a cheesecloth and cut into bite-size pieces sauce. Season and add the bay leaf. 2 litres full-cream milk overnight. You will end up with 3 onions, sliced Line the bottom of a casserole or fresh lemon juice about 300g of curd. Beat the butter 1 tbsp flour hotpot dish with a layer of sliced 120g butter and rosewater together, mix in the 570ml lamb stock potato. Arrange the meat on top, 1-2 tbsp rosewater curds, then add the remaining egg, 1 tsp Lea & Perrins sauce pour over the onion mixture, and top 50g sugar sugar and cinnamon to taste. with a further layer of potato, dotted Line a tart tin with the pastry, fill 1 bay leaf cinnamon and nutmeg with pieces of butter. Cover and with the curd mixture, sprinkle with 900g potatoes, thinly sliced cook for 90 minutes, removing the nutmeg and bake at 190C for 25 To make the pastry, rub the flour salt and pepper lid towards the end of the cooking to 30 minutes. and butter together, add the sugar, time to crisp the potatoes, increasing and mix in a quarter of the beaten the heat if necessary.

TastyRegional Offers information For special enjoyeastmidlands.com offers and discounts visit our website 55 East Midlands, Heart of England and East of England London, South West England and South East England RegionalEast Midlands recipes

Shrewsbury Biscuits Omelette Arnold Bennett Banoffee Pie Crunchy, spicy and not too sweet – these are the Created at the Savoy Hotel for the writer and critic Forget about counting the calories when you tuck into this very essence of the traditional English teatime treat Arnold Bennett, this fabulously rich and tasty dish makes pudding – it’s a fruity, caramelly, chocolatey slice of heaven! a great post-theatre supper You will need Preheat the oven to 190C. You will need Put the unopened can of condensed 200g plain flour Mix the dry ingredients and rub You will need Poach the haddock in the milk with 400g tin condensed milk milk into a large pan, cover with water, bring to the boil and cook 1 tsp baking powder in the butter. Beat the egg and 100g smoked haddock the bay leaf, onion and parsley for 150g digestive biscuits rosewater together, and add to dry three to four minutes. Remove the for four hours, topping up the water 100g caster sugar 250 ml milk 75g butter ingredients to make a soft dough. fish and skin and flake it. Whisk the level as necessary. Remove the can 3 large bananas 100g butter Roll out on a floured surface and 1 bay leaf eggs with a little salt and pepper to and leave it to cool for an hour or 1 1/2 tsp caraway seed shape into a long roll about 12 /2 a medium-sized onion season. Melt the butter in a heavy- 284ml carton double cream two. Crush the digestive biscuits, 1/2 tsp nutmeg inches long. Refrigerate until firm, 2 sprigs parsley based frying pan over a medium dark chocolate, to decorate mix them with the melted butter and 2 tsp rosewater then slice thinly into about 32 4 eggs heat. Add the eggs and fry until the use the mixture to line a 20cm flan tin. Chill for 30 minutes. Open the 1 egg rounds. Place on a greased baking salt and fresh ground top of the omelette is almost set. can of condensed milk and spread sheet, allowing some space between black pepper Scatter over the haddock, spoon The chef' on the cream and top with the The chef's the dark, fudgy contents over the the biscuits for them to spread. a knob of butter Bake for ten minutes. notebook Parmesan cheese. Grill until brown not biscuit base. Arrange the peeled, C ebo s If the idea of dressings 2 tbsp double cream, whipped ondensedok sliced bananas over the toffee, top and bubbling. be mi The chef' a crab yourself fills you caramelis lk can al 1-2 tbsp grated Parmesan so with whipped cream and decorate with horror, j microw ed in notebook cheese glass coave. Pour the with slivers of dark chocolate. Allow plenty of space on your fishmonger in advance s nta it into baking tray - otthe during ust ring The chef' medi iner an a your and ask him to prepare it um to low fo d cook cuits spread a l for you. A few drops of 20 mi on bis They will still notebook stly nutes or untilr 16 Tabasco will add kick to the co and caramel to cooking. when they ut To reduce s, haddock thi quite soft the Marie Rose sauce. every colour ck be ll smoking proces d two mi ed, Stir come out of the they oven, wi b is often dyed a vivi kes nutes. cool. Bakewell Pudding don't worry -hey Cromer Crab Cocktail yellow – which inma a dark Fuzzy George crisp up as t it easy to find ut does nothing Serve up this classy cocktail, made with traditional Plymouth The original recipe may be a closely guarded secret, You’ll love this retro favourite, given an East Anglian fridge, b lavour! Choose ad. gin and English bubbly, as the perfect start to an elegant but this is a pretty good imitation to try at home! twist with the substitution of crab for for the f d fish inste undyed smoke dinner You will need Preheat your oven to 200C. You will need Mix the mayonnaise, tomato You will need in Gloucestershire. Three Choirs Roll out the pastry on a floured 300g Cromer crab meat ketchup, lemon juice, Lea & Perrins 225g puff pastry or sweet Classic Cuvée is dry and subtle, surface and use it to line a shallow Half a cucumber, diced sauce and sherry. Put the diced 1 shot Plymouth gin shortcrust pastry made from 80 per cent Seyval Blanc pie dish. Chill the pastry in the cucumber into four cocktail glasses, 1/2 shot freshly squeezed 110g ground almonds 2 tbsp mayonnaise and 20 per cent Pinot Noir grapes. fridge while you make the filling. top with the crab meat and pour lemon juice 110g caster sugar 2 tbsp of ketchup Plymouth gin is made at Black Friars Beat the almonds with the sugar, the sauce over the top. Garnish with 1 shot sugar syrup 1 tsp lemon juice /2 Distillery, the oldest working gin 50g butter, softened butter, eggs and almond essence. a lemon slice and a sprinkling of sparkling wine distillery in England. It’s in the heart 3 eggs Spread the jam evenly over the 1 tsp Lea & Perrins sauce paprika, and serve with brown bread of the historic port city of Plymouth, 4 tbsp strawberry jam base of the pastry case and pour 2 tsp dry sherry and butter. To make the sugar syrup, dissolve and has been producing gin since 1 in the filling. Bake for 30 minutes paprika /2 tsp almond essence two parts sugar in one part boiling 1793. This was a favourite with until set, and serve warm with lemon slices and buttered water. Shake the first three the Royal Navy, so seafarers from cream or custard. brown bread to garnish ingredients over ice, strain into a admirals to tars have tasted it too! champagne flute and top up with sparkling wine. We use Classic Cuvée, a champagne-style fizz made at Three Choirs, the award winning single estate vineyard

56 Tasty Offers For special offers and discounts visit our website Tasty Offers For special offers and discounts visit our website 5757 AroundEast Midlands England Around England England’s Northwest North East England Now you’ve browsed through this guide, we hope you’re Blackpool and Lancashire, Chester and County Durham, Northumberland, London East of England feeling inspired and eager to get out and explore England – Cheshire, Cumbria – The Lake District, Tees Valley, Tyne and Wear There’s something to surprise, Bedfordshire, Cambridgeshire, Liverpool and Merseyside, Manchester Come to the home of Newcastle Brown Ale, not to mention rather hungry and thirsty! We want to make delight amd entertain you Essex, Hertfordshire, Norfolk, Spread a napkin over your lap smoky Craster kippers and Lindisfarne mead. on every corner in the your adventure as easy as possible, and all our regions Suffolk in an award-winning eaterie. Even the potatoes produced here are worth capital. Whether you’re Fertile fields and Bite into tooth-tingling, sending an email home about! are here to help you on your quest for delicious food and hankering for an waters teeming energy-enhancing Kendall visitnortheastengland.co.uk drink. You can find suggested itineraries for each region on impeccably elegant with a host of mint cake. Brave a Michelin-starred meal enjoyengland.com – click Touring ideas to download PDF delicious fish and slice of black pudding or a dish of traditional jellied eels, it’s files. Now get out and taste your way around the country! crustaceans – let alongside your there for the asking. your tastebuds breakfast bacon. Suck on Blackpool visitlondon.com lead you on your rock as you explore the seafront. Yorkshire discovery of the visitenglandsnorthwest.com East Yorkshire, North Yorkshire, South Yorkshire, West Yorkshire East of England. Tuck into a succulent Sunday roast, accompanied by Yorkshire’s famous visiteastofengland.com pudding (don’t stint on the gravy!). A day’s walking in the Dales will give South West England you an excuse for an indulgent cream tea, and there’s nothing better Bath & Bristol, Cornwall and the Isles of than a stroll along the beach to whet your appetite for fish and chips. Scilly, Devon, Dorset, Gloucestershire & yorkshirevisitor.com the Cotswolds, Somerset, Wiltshire Home to cream teas , Cornish pasties, Heart of England and Bath buns – it’s so easy Birmingham, Black Country, Coventry and to indulge when you explore Warwickshire, Herefordshire and the Wye the South West. Valley, Shakespeare Country, Shropshire visitsouthwest.co.uk and the Welsh borders, Staffordshire and If you’re planning your East Midlands the Peak District, Stoke and the Potteries, trip around a festival, fair Worcestershire Derbyshire and the Peak District, Welcoming Ludlow has a Leicestershire and Rutland, or special event, see our sparkling array of Michelin Lincolnshire, Northamptonshire, listings on page 60 stars; buzzing Birmingham Nottinghamshire is a magnet for balti fans; Sample Bakewell For a list of national Herefordshire’s orchards pudding and Melton foodie organisations and produce apples bursting with Mowbray pork pies. resources to help you with South East England Sip a pint in England’s juice to transform into cider. information and ideas, Berkshire, Buckinghamshire, East Sussex, Hampshire, Isle of Wight, And of course you can sample the food of love oldest pub – or brave Kent, Oxfordshire, Surrey, West Sussex in Shakespeare country! the world’s strongest turn to page 64 There’s leisurely fine dining to be found in the cities of Oxford, Canterbury visitheartofengland.com ale. And don’t forget and Brighton. Coastal towns offer a marine heritage that’s as strong as the Stilton – this region can claim to be Looking for a farmers’ vinegar on your chips. The orchards of Kent provide a bounty of apples, hops, home to England’s best loved blue market in your area? cobnuts and more. Oh – and did we mention the best restaurant in the world? cheese. See page 62 visitsoutheastengland.com enjoyeastmidlands.com

58 Tasty Offers For special offers and discounts visit our website Tasty Offers For special offers and discounts visit our website 5959 Events and farmers' markets Events and Farmers’ MarketsEvents

20-21 May of Norfolk, along with tastes from and demonstrations by a stunning 28-30 July vines are grown here in 150 acres of Derbyshire Food and Drink Fair around the world. range of celebrity chefs. Totally Food Show beautiful orchards. Today is the day Head to Bolsover Castle to see deepdalefarm.co.uk houseandgardenfair.co.uk at the CLA Game Fair to celebrate the noble plum! cooking demos by local chefs and The Totally Food Show at brogdale.org sample wine, beer, honey and 15-18 June Broadlands, Romsey, Hants will Events Taste of London highlight the important role played 19-20 August May chocolate. September derbyshire-peakdistrict.co.uk Eat at 40 of the capital’s top eateries by many specialist, regional food Isle of Wight Garlic Festival 2006 in one day! Four days of fantastic producers. Displays by small firms, The Isle of Wight Garlic Festival will 2006 and 22-28 May food in beautiful Regent’s Park. Regional Food Groups and other be held this year at the Newchurch National Vegetarian Week tasteoflondon.co.uk July food-related exhibitors make this showground. Not only a celebration Embrace your inner herbivore and mouthwatering event one to visit! of garlic, the festival will be a major 2-3 September 11-14 May 17-18 June treat yourself to a week of health- 2006 gamefair.co.uk fundraising vehicle for island charities Organic food festival, Bristol The Royal Windsor North West Food Lovers’ Festival, giving salads, fruit and veg – you as well as a business and marketing The UK’s largest celebration of organic Farmers’ Food and Drink Festival might just convert for life! Westmoreland 29 July opportunity for the Isle of Wight. The food and drink, with a generous variety The finest purveyors of food and Taste and buy produce from the Tastes of Lincolnshire Food Fair vegsoc.org/nvw 8-9 July festival has been going since 1983. of different produce to try and to buy. drink in and around Windsor will be region’s top purveyors of fine food In the heart of historic Lincoln, The Cotswold Show It has grown in popularity and is now organicfoodfairs.co.uk offering their wares alongside the and drink. 29 May-6 June Food and drink and activities for all this popular food fair has stalls attended by approximately 25,000 Royal Windsor horse show. foodloversfestival.co.uk English Wine Week the family. Don’t forget the Pimms and demonstrations to enjoy on a people each year. 5-9 September royal-windsor-horse-show.co.uk Visit a vineyard near you and sample summer’s day. thegarlicfarm.co.uk Chappel Beer Festival Markets 18-19 June – there’s polo to watch! some outstanding wines – some are visitlincolnshire.com Essex and CAMRA celebrate in style 14 May Speciality and Fine Food Fair, cotswoldshow.co.uk beating champagne and sparkling 26-28 August at the East Anglian Railway Museum Bangladeshi Food Festival Harrogate wines from around the world in 11-13 July The Town and Country Festival near Colchester, with over 350 A feast for curry lovers as prominent Speciality buyers from across the international blind tastings, which is Great Yorkshire Show Stoneleigh Park is home to this different beers to get through! North and Midlands flock here to restaurateurs from London’s famous definitely a reason to celebrate! Don’t miss the Great Yorkshire Cheese annual event, at which you can source the finest local and regional earm.co.uk/beerfestival.asp Brick Lane present special menus for englishwineweek.co.uk & Dairy Show, a highlight of this enjoy taste sensations from local gourmet food and drink. the day. annual event in Harrogate. producers, regional chains and 8-10 September baishakhimela.com specialityandfinefoodfairs.co.uk greatyorkshireshow.com August multinational brands. Challenge your Ludlow Marches Food and Drink tastebuds with something different – 14 May 23-25 June Festival 14-16 July 2006 many products on offer here are not Deliciouslyorkshire Food Festival The World Festival The Festival features more than 120 Pontefract Liquorice Festival available in supermarkets, including This event has been restyled for of Food and Drink small producers and suppliers of England’s liquorice capital presents a wide selection of alternative drinks 2006 to provide greater emphasis Demonstrations, displays, activities quality food and drink from Ludlow June an annual festival of contemporary from wines and cordials to beers and on food and drink. The programme – and, most importantly, fine food 1-5 August and the Marches, the English-Welsh culture, arts, and heritage suitable liqueurs. will include a special cookery event from around the world as this Great British Beer Festival border country, plus an amazing range 2006 for the whole family. townandcountryfestival.org.uk for children, and Brian Turner, London expo takes over the Excel The Great British Beer Festival will of events that enable you to rediscover Yorkshire’s very own celebrity chef, pontefractliquoricefestival.co.uk be held at Earls Court this year and real food and drink. Exhibition Centre. 27 August will be giving demonstrations in the worldfestivaloffoodanddrink.com is expected be the biggest and foodfestival.co.uk 22-30 July Kitchen Garden Day Cookery Theatre. 2-3 June best ever, with over 450 real ales Whitstable Oyster Festival An annual, decentralised celebration deliciouslyorkshire.com Keswick Beer Festival 24 June-9 July available for visitors to sample. 8-10 September A great excuse to sink a few pints Celebrate the unique identity of camra.org.uk of food produced on a human scale. Emsworth Food Festival Hampshire Food and Drink Festival It’s an opportunity for people around 18-21 May of fine locally produced ale! Over Whitstable town, harbour, and industry Emsworth is the south coast’s best A fortnight of special events the world to gather in their gardens Summer BBC Good Food Festival 150 beers and ciders are available – and eat many, many oysters. 12 August kept culinary secret. This historic, celebrating all that is good about with friends, family, and members of Capture the flavour of summer and for tasting, and you can also feast oysterfestival.co.uk Plum Festival fishing village, set in the beautiful local food and drink. their local community to celebrate celebrate the sunshine season: long, on steaks, burgers, hot dogs and Brogdale is home to the National Chichester harbour between hampshirefare.co.uk the multiple pleasures and benefits lazy picnics, delicious brunches, Cumberland sausage. 26 July Fruit Collections, the largest Portsmouth and Chichester, is packed keswickbeerfestival.co.uk Nantwich International collection of varieties of fruit trees of home-grown, handmade foods. with quality pubs and restaurants. alfresco dining and fantastic BBQs – 29 June-2 July all part of the UK’s ultimate summer Cheese Show in the world. Over 2,300 varieties kitchengardeners.org emsworthfoodfestival.co.uk Kids love the Food Lovers' Fair eating festival at the National 10-11 June Held in the world-renowned cheese of apple, 550 of pear, 350 of plum, opportunity to This year there is a foodie Exhibition Centre, Birmingham. Deepdale Food and Drink Festival pavilion at the Nantwich Show, this 220 of cherry, 320 of bush fruits, as 22 September-1 October discover new foods extravaganza running alongside is a must-visit for those looking to summer.bbcgoodfoodfestival.com A chance to enjoy the produce well as smaller collections of nuts & York Festival of Food & Drink at events like the this classic exhibition at London stock up their cheese larders. A showcase for Yorkshire food. Ludlow Food Festival Olympia, with producers, tastings, nantwichshow.co.uk

56A Tasty Offers For special offers and discounts visit our website 61 Events and Farmers’ Markets Events and Farmers’ Markets

Sample the wares of a range of local 30 September-1 October 6-16 October Lincoln to celebrate the region’s very Richmond 10 November-10 December North East England Louth Ludlow farmers, the Deliciouslyorkshire The Great British Cheese Festival Manchester Food own sausages! Taste South East Cornwall Festival Third Saturday monthly organisation and ethnic food A celebration of all the many and Drink Festival visitlincolnshire.com Celebration of the area’s produce Alnwick ndfm.co.uk producers from across the region. varieties of British cheese, plus Browse and buy the finest produce and cuisine, with local food Last Friday of the month Ripon whatsonyork.com the hotly contested British Cheese from the Northwest. 28-29 October producers, restaurateurs and other (01665) 606796 Third Sunday monthly Awards. At Montpelier Gardens, foodanddrinkfestival.com The Great Peak District Fair businesses participating. December ndfm.co.uk 23 September-8 October Cheltenham. See the region’s chefs at work taste-southeastcornwall.com Hexham Second and fourth Saturday monthly British Food Fortnight thecheeseweb.com 7-8 October in the demonstration kitchen 2006 Skipton northumberlandfarmersmarkets. Putting the ‘oo’ back into food! The Taste District Food and Drink cooking delicious recipes using 11 November First Sunday monthly org.uk Enjoy the diverse and delicious Festival local ingredients, stock up on local Leicester Group Coeliac Food Fair ndfm.co.uk food that Britain produces. Savour the ultimate Lakes food and produce and browse the work of You’ll find great ideas, information 8-9 December Morpeth Louth britishfoodfortnight.co.uk drink experience. Enjoy cookery local artists and craft workers.In the Stokesley Stafford and the latest in gluten-free food. Create Centre Festive Fayre First Sunday monthly Fourth Wednesday monthly demonstrations with celebrity chefs, Pavilion Gardens, Buxton. First Saturday monthly Second Saturday monthly coeliac.co.uk Bristol’s one-stop eco-shop (01507) 568885 castlemorpeth.gov.uk (01785) 245935 24 September meet local food producers, sample gpdf.co.uk returns with dozens of stalls selling 0800-1500. Contact: Alastair Davy tasty local beers, English wines and a 19 November Measham ndfm.co.uk Salisbury Food and Drink Festival October Christmas gifts and goodies that Newcastle Warwick whole range of local delicacies. 30 October-5 November Exmouth Christmas Fair First Friday monthly Fourth Friday monthly The third Salisbury Food and Drink won’t cost the earth! York City Centre Third Friday monthly tastedistrict.com British Sausage Week A crafty way to make a start on your newcastle.gov.uk leicestershirefoodlinks.org.uk Festival promises to be another 2006 visitbristol.co.uk Monthly on the 29th, except (01926) 632128 bonanza of locally produced food Your chance to indulge in great Christmas shopping: stock up your Ponteland Melton Mowbray January, February, September, and drink. 14-15 October British bangers! festive larder here! 9 December Worcester Fourth Saturday monthly Every Tuesday and Friday December salisburyfoodanddrink.co.uk Harvest Home Supper sausagelinks.co.uk (01395) 263495 The Great Christmas First Sunday monthly October Farmers’ castlemorpeth.gov.uk meltonmowbraymarket.co.uk york.gov.uk/markets See the preparations for the Harvest Leicester comes to life with the Pudding Race worcestershirefarmersmarkets.net Home Supper at Home Farm and 31 October 23-26 November 24 September world’s biggest celebration of Diwali, Teams dressed in fancy clothes Northampton Pockerley Manor, Beamish. The The Chocolate Festival St Nicholas Fayre Apple and Pear Sunday the Hindu Festival of Light, to be race around an obstacle course in Third Thursday monthly Heart of England East of England mouthwatering spread at Home The Chocolate Festival (previously York gets the yuletide spirit. The Come and pick apples and pears held outside India. Stock up on London’s Covent Garden, carrying (01604) 838 444 Farm includes raised game pies, Chocolate Week) gets under way Fayre offers a range of markets from the orchards of Crook Hall and traditional sweetmeats in the many a on a tray. Alcester Barleylands in the UK. Its centrepiece is the Markets Towcester trussed chicken and ox tongue, specialising in gifts, crafts, and the Gardens, Durham. shops on Belgrave Road. The event raises money for Cancer Fourth Friday monthly Second and last Saturday monthly whilst dishes of the day at Pockerley Chocolate Festival stand at the very best in local farm produce. Second Friday monthly crookhallgardens.co.uk leicesterfestivals.co.uk Research UK. (01386) 870073 barleylands.co.uk Manor are pickled pigs feet, baked Spirit of Christmas show at London’s yorkfestivals.com londontown.com (01327) 351848 in custard and salamagundy. Olympia, where Seventypercent will England’s Northwest Birmingham Colchester 27-30 September 1-8 October Darlington Wellingborough St Albans Beer Festival beamish.co.uk be each day with tastings and talks. 22-26 November 9-12 December First and third Wednesday monthly First Friday monthly Lincoln Red Beef Week Abbey Leys Third Friday monthly Last Thursday monthly Over 300 different British real ales seventypercent.com BBC Good Food Show North Shields Victorian (0121) 303 0300 en-form.org.uk Lincoln Red cattle produce fine First Sunday monthly darlington.gov.uk Newcastle (01933) 23173 will be available for customers. The 19-22 October The UK’s premier food and drink Christmas Market marbled meat renowned for its abbeyleys.co.uk Coventry Nottingham Beer and Cider show takes place at the NEC in One of the highlights of the Orton Easton Farm Park beers come from all over the UK and texture and quality. Tastes of Second Thursday monthly Festival Birmingham, with food stalls and Fourth Saturday monthly will include milds, bitters, old ales, Lincolnshire join forces with the festive season on Tyneside. Ashton-under-Lyne Second Saturday monthly East Midlands Yorkshire Try real ale and ciders, and tuck into celebrity chefs. (01608) 664659 eastonfarmpark.co.uk porters, stouts and barley wine as Lincoln Red Cattle Society to Jolly stallholders sell traditional Last Sunday monthly (01931) 716638 well as speciality wheat beers, fruit locally produced food goodies. bbcgoodfoodshow.com foodstuffs, crafts and gifts, and tameside.gov.uk/markets Brackley Doncaster Hereford promote this native beef breed. Penrith Ely beers and many others. nottinghamcamra.org seasonal music drifts over the Third Saturday monthly First and third Wednesday monthly First Saturday and third Thursday Second and fourth Saturday lincolnred.dabsol.co.uk Barnard Castle Third Tuesday monthly stalbansbeerfestival.com November 26 November-6 December square. (07775) 938517 dolfn.co.uk monthly monthly 23-30 October First Saturday monthly (01768) 212147 6-15 October UK Vegan Week victorianmarket.co.uk (01886) 821237, (07710) 290929 eastcambs.gov.uk Liverpool Food teesdalefarmersmarkets.co.uk Daventry Driffield 29 September-1 October The festival of Houghton Feast 2006 Prove to yourself that you can still Pooley Bridge and Drink Festival 14 December First Saturday monthly First Saturday monthly 0900-1300 Ludlow Hadleigh Nantwich Food Festival This traditional ten day event be healthy and happy without meat, Brough Last Sunday monthly from April to An exciting array of events is All Things Sparkling (01327) 322317 driffieldshow.co.uk Second Thursday monthly Second Wednesday monthly Well over 100 small producers give incorporates many community fish or dairy. Third Saturday monthly September planned. Each year the festival Birmingham’s Elegusto restaurant (01584) 878437 sahtc.com visitors the chance to sample a wide activities, music events and contests. 8-12 November vegansociety.com Tel: 01768 342135 (01931) 716638 Leicester Harrogate continues growing and adding to the offers a rare chance to taste range of speciality local and regional Tuck into a roasted ox sandwich, sold Country Living Christmas Fair Last Wednesday monthly Second Thursday monthly Malvern Loughton variety of events on offer. sparkling wines from several Colne Farmers’ Market Stanhope food. There are also numerous to support local charities. Your chance to shop for traditional leicester.gov.uk/markets (01423) 556028 Third Saturday monthly First Sunday monthly liverpoolfoodanddrink.com different countries alongside house Third Saturday monthly Fourth Saturday monthly cookery demonstrations showcasing visitsunderland.com furnishings and accessories for the worcestershirefarmersmarkets.net hughmark.co.uk a variety of celebrity and local chefs. home, contemporary jewellery and and Grande Marques champagnes. colnemarket.co.uk. wearvalleyfarmersmarkets.co.uk Lincoln Northallerton 28 October And don't miss the connoisseur fashion, handmade crafts and fine A great opportunity to stock up for First Friday monthly Fourth Wednesday monthly Rugby Needham Market Lincolnshire Sausage Festival Congleton Vale Royal, Kelsall tasting events. food and drink. the holidays. (01522) 545233 (01748) 884414 Last Thursday monthly Third Saturday monthly Stalls, demonstrations and First and third Tuesday monthly Third Saturday monthly nantwichfoodfestival.co.uk countrylivingfair.com birminghambites.com (01788) 572150 aldercarrfarm.co.uk entertainment take place in uphill (07739) 529225 eddisbury.co.uk

62 Tasty Offers For special offers and discounts visit our website Tasty Offers For special offers and discounts visit our website 63 Farmers’ Markets and Useful Information

Norwich Stoke Newington South East England First and third Sunday monthly Saturday weekly 2007 events norwichfarmersmarket.co.uk growingcommunities.org Ascot We don’t think it’s ever too early Useful contacts Wayland (Watton) Wimbledon Park Third Sunday monthly to start looking forward to fun First Saturday monthly Saturday weekly tvfm.org.uk activities and good things to eat If the information in this book has whetted your wayland.org.uk lfm.org.uk Basingstoke and drink! The preceding pages should fill up your diary and help appetite for information about English food, restaurants, Woodbridge First Sunday in June, August, October, you plan breaks and outings in Second and fourth Saturday monthly South West England December pubs and cooking courses, here are some national 2006, but we’ve got wind of a (01379) 384593 hampshirefarmersmarkets.co.uk organisations that can help you find out more few exciting events coming up Deddington next year. London Fourth Saturday monthly except January is typically the month Food From Britain public. The Association’s website December of detox diets and atoning for Sold on eating local produce? This also has links to events, news and deddington.org.uk Christmas overindulgence – but web site is a guide to over 3000 vineyards across the UK. instead, why not head to Dorset regional food and drink producers farmshopping.com Eton in the UK. The guide lists the full Third Friday monthy for the 2007 Farmhouse Breakfast Event (hgca.com/breakfast), held contact details of the producer, a English Wine Producers Axbridge tvfm.org.uk throughout the South West. summary of what they produce ‘Think English, Drink English’ is the Farnham and a link to their web site if they motto of this user-friendly website, Come February, those first Fourth Sunday monthly, except have one. Details of producers are which is packed with information Axbridge perfect, tender pink stems of December continually updated. The site is easy about England’s wine industry, its First Saturday monthly delicious forced rhubarb will start Borough somersetfarmersmarkets.co.uk farnham.gov.uk to use and you’re able to search on vineyards and the people working to appear. Visit the Wakefield a regional basis, on a product or a to improve and promote English Guildford Rhubarb Festival (wakefield. Borough Market Bridport combination of the two searches. wine. We’ll drink to that! First Tuesday monthly org.uk), and plan to make your Friday 1200-1800, Second Saturday monthly Get your credit card ready – there englishwineproducers.com guildfordfarmersmarket.co.uk first crumble of the year. You Saturday 0900-1600 dorsetforyou.com are great special offers available can also get involved in Bramley online. CAMRA boroughmarket.org.uk Malmesbury Cheddar Apple Week (bramleyapples. regionalfoodanddrink.co.uk The Campaign for Real Ale’s Second and fourth Saturday monthly Ealing Third Saturday monthly co.uk) and National Honey Week website is the place to visit if you’re Fresh-n-local.co.uk Saturday weekly somersetfarmersmarkets.co.uk (honeyassociation.com), or plan National Association of looking for information on good lfm.org.uk Rochester a break around the St Neots Beer Farmers’ Markets beer, good food and good pubs Gloucester Third Sunday monthly Festival (camra.org.uk) or the From Lancashire to Land’s End, around the country. Islington Friday weekly rochesterfarmersmarket.co.uk Rye Bay Scallop Festival (visitrye. Farmers’ Markets are held all over camra.org.uk Sunday weekly fresh-n-local.co.uk co.uk). the country on a weekly, monthly lfm.org.uk Romsey Malmesbury March is the month to plan or fortnightly basis. They’re a The British Cheese Board First Sunday in May, July, September, Marylebone Second and fourth Saturday monthly a visit to Leeds for the Leeds great opportunity to support local Everything the serious cheese November Sunday weekly fresh-n-local.co.uk Beer, Cider and Perry Festival producers – and stock up on lover could want: facts about lfm.org.uk hampshirefarmersmarkets.co.uk (leedsbeerfestival.co.uk), London yummy food and drink, of course. If British cheese, recipes, downloads, Tavistock for the Whisky Live event you can’t find a market near you in recommendations for wines to NWDA G3-13 Notting Hill Swindon Second and Fourth Saturday (visitlondon.com), or head west our Farmers' Market directory, visit accompany your cheese, and Saturday weekly Every Sunday monthly for the Exeter Festival of South farmersmarkets.net, where you’ll much more. lfm.org.uk Fresh-n-local.co.uk travistockfarmersmarket.com West England Food and Drink find comprehensive listings as well cheeseboard.co.uk Tonbridge Pimlico Road Truro (visitsouthwest.co.uk). And in as help for producers wanting to set Third Saturday monthly Saturday weekly Wednesday weekly April there are food and drink up a market of their own. Farm Stays hughmark.co.uk lfm.org.uk truro-farmersmarket.co.uk festivals taking place in Chester farmersmarkets.net Where farming families up and You’ll find all the right ingredients for the perfect short break in England’s Northwest. Luxury rural hideaways with Michelin starred Woking (chesterfoodanddrink.com), down Britain offer you a warm Richmond Plymouth restaurants, rooftop city dining just a stone’s throw from stylish boutique hotels, speciality food shops and local produce. First Thursday monthly Henley (henleyfoodfestival. Farm Retail Association personal welcome and a taste of Saturday weekly Second and fourth Saturday monthly wokingham-tc.gov.uk co.uk) and the Yorkshire Dales Find your local farm shops and country living at its best. All guarantee you a fantastic taste of England’s Northwest. To find out more visitenglandsnorthwest.com/food (020) 8878 5132 plymouthpanniermarket.co.uk (dalesfestivaloffood.org). producers selling directly to the farmstayuk.co.uk

64 Tasty Offers For special offers and discounts visit our website Take a tour of England LUNCH & DINNER Conceived and produced by England Marketing and Publishing at VisitBritain Creative and copy by Clear, London Additional copy by Sian Ellis Front cover Britain on View CRUISES Inside front cover Britain on View Photography credits: Adnams; Alamy; Alnwick Garden; Angel Inn; Ansteys/Andrew Wilce; Ashburton Cookery School/Evoke; Below Zero; Belvoire Fruit Farm; Benares; Blackburn & Hayes; Black Pudding Company; Britain on View; British Cheese Board; British Egg Information Service; Café 21/Kevin Gibson Photography; Chain Bridge Honey; Chapel Downs Wines; Cheshire Farm Ice Cream; Chester Grosvenor; Cumbria Tourist Board; Simon Deverell; Dickinson & Morris; Elena’s L’Etoile; Fairmont; The Fat Duck/David Loftus; Fawsley Hall; Food Connection/Sheila Halsall; Garlic Farm; Goddards Pie Shop; Greens of Whitby; Gressenhall Farm/ Graham Corney; Greystone House; Hampshire Fare; Harvey Nichols Restaurant; Heart of England Tourism; Herefordshire Cider Museum; Herefordshire Tourism; High House Farm Brewery; Juniper/Martin O’Neill; Kent Alliance Tourism; King’s Head/Raven Cozens- Hardy; Lancashire and Blackpool Tourist Board; Joff Lee; Leicestershire Promotions; Lindisfarne; London Carriage Works; Ludlow Food Festival; Maison Talbooth; Maldon VisitBritain presents a brand new series of three Crystal Salt; Maldon Oyster Company; Manoir aux Quat' Saisons; Marketing Birmingham; Andrew Meredith; Neal’s inspirational touring guides to the regions of England: South Yard/Simon Tobias; Northumberland Cheese Company; and South West, Northern England and Central England. North West Tourism; Nottinghamshire Tourism; Olive Branch; Oxford Cheese/Photographers Workshop; Oxo Tower; Michael Penty; Port of Lancaster Smokehouse; Each guide takes you on a fascinating journey through Quartier Vert/Jenni Knott; Ridgeview Vineyard; The Rose stunning countryside and coastlines, picturesque villages & Crown/Second Image Creative photography; Rose and Crown at Romaldkirk; Rick Stein Cookery School; RS and lively market towns, historic houses and gardens. Ireland; Rosemary Shrager Cookery School/Swinton Park; Relax for lunch or indulge in a luxurious dinner Brian Smith; Somerset Distillery; St Martins Hotel; Thorpe G Easy-to-use maps and clear route directions Farm Peel House; Andy Tyner; Vegetarian Cookery School; Vegetarian Society; Vertigo 42; Visit London; Walnut Club; G Lively descriptions and stunning photographs of places cruise aboard Bateaux London’s elegant restaurant Welland Valley; Whin Hill Cider; Yorkshire Tourist Board. to discover Important note: vessel whilst you cruise past London’s The information contained in Taste England has been Touring Central England – £14.99 published in good faith on the basis of information submitted to VisitBritain, and every effort has been made Touring Northern England – £14.99 breathtaking landmarks along the Thames. to ensure its accuracy. However, where appropriate, you Touring South and South West England – £14.99 are strongly recommended to check prices, opening times, dates, etc, before making final arrangements. All liability plus postage and handling for loss, disappointment, negligence or damage caused by reliance on the information contained in this publication is hereby excluded to the fullest extent permitted by law. Printed in England To order by telephone call the VisitBritain order line on TEL: 020 7925 2215 Published by VisitBritain, Thames Tower, Blacks Road, London W6 9EL 0870 606 7204 quoting reference TEB EMAIL: [email protected] in partnership with England’s tourism industry. – we accept VISA, MasterCard and Maestro enjoyengland.com www.bateauxlondon.com © British Tourist Authority (trading as VisitBritain 2006) ISBN: 978-0-7095-8337-0 Or order online at enjoyenglanddirect.com London 2 New York 2 Paris Product code: E4TAEEN

67 travelthe Gourmet Trail

Indulge in the finest food and drink experience on a gourmet break in Leicestershire, Rutland, Northamptonshire and Lincolnshire. Call 0116 225 4003 for your Gourmet Trail map or visit the website. www.gourmettrail.co.uk