January 2012 $495

TODThe Magazine of French TravelA and YCulture

Close to Heaven: Val d’Isère The Artist Star Pale and Mellow: Very Rare Cognac

Volume 27, nO. 1 www.francetoday.com

Inside:

2012 Travel Study Guide France Celebrates 125 Years of a Living Symbol of Freedom

This statue given by France to the great people of America can be the statue of all those throughout the world who choose freedom over dictatorship. It is not simply a statue, it is an idea, and what the French and the Americans wanted to say was that this idea

of freedom isn’t just for the Americans or just for the — President of the French Republic “ Liberty Island, NY - Sept. 22, 2011 French—it is for all the peoples of the world. ” ©Présidence de la République / Christelle ALIX

France in the franceintheus.org United States Embassy of France in Washington Contents january 2012

4 CALENDAR 18 WINE & SPIRITS What’s On & What’s Up Pale, Mellow and Rare: Early-Landed Cognac 6 A LA CARTE 21 FRENCH KITCHEN 8 BOUTIQUE BEAT Of Bakers and Baguettes Secret Corners 23 FILM PICKS 10 Constructivism à la Jean-Paul Goude 10 DESIGN NOW Top French Train Films Top Showman, 24 RENCONTRE 24 Jean Dujardin Hot Stuff in The Artist Jean Dujardin, 12 Val d’Isère Star of The Artist Close to Heaven on Earth 26 TRAVEL STUDY GUIDE 16 Savoyarde Time-Honored Alpine 38 LE MARCHÉ Treat 39 CLASSIFIEDS

12 Sunning on the slopes at Val d’Isère

4 The Foyer, by Pietro Longhi, in the Casanova exhibit at the BNF Val d'Isère©Agence Nuts-Office du Tourisme Val d'Isère; Goude©Jean-Paul Goude; Dujardin©La Petite Reine/Studio 37/La Classe Américaine/JD Prod France 3 Cinéma/Jouror Productions/uFilm; Longhi©Venezia, Fondazione Querini Stampalia Longhi©Venezia, Productions/uFilm; France 3 Cinéma/Jouror Prod Américaine/JD 37/La Classe Reine/Studio Petite Goude; Dujardin©La Val d'Isère; Goude©Jean-Paul Tourisme Nuts-Office du d'Isère©Agence Val

w w w . francetoday . c o m l j a n u a ry 2012 l f r a n c e t o d a y l 3 TODAY France Calendar TODAY The Magazine of French Travel and Culture Publisher Louis F. Kyle What’s On & What’s Up Editor-in-Chief Judy Fayard FOR YOUR NEXT TRIP TO FRANCE Associate Editor/Web Manager Vivian Thomas Editorial Assistant Claire Senard La France en Relief Art Direction Joey Rigg Sixteen masterpieces from the Contributors French national collection of Cécile Mouette Downs, Lanie Goodman, relief maps, dating from the Jennifer Ladonne, Alexander Lobrano, Susan Herrmann Loomis, Jean Bond Rafferty, reign of Louis XIV to Napoleon Christina Rebuffet-Broadus, Chris Redman, Ellen III’s Second Empire, and origi- Wallace. Travel Study Guide: C.C. Glenn, Emily Liedel nally intended for military use. Consulting Photographers The extraordinary, minutely Bob Peterson, Guy Marineau, detailed, three-dimensional, James O'Mara topographical scale mod- Copy Editing & Translation Martha Fay, Elizabeth Bell, Wendy Taylor els of fortified cities include Marketing and Digital Coordinators Brest, Briançon, Besançon, Gina Lorenz, 212.221.6700 ext. 100 Strasbourg and Cherbourg, [email protected]; C.C. Glenn [email protected] the largest at 1,700 square feet. Subscription Fulfillment Manager Grand Palais, main entrance Ave Ahjin Kim, 212.221.6700 ext. 103, Winston Churchill, 8th, Métro: [email protected] Champs Elysées Clemenceau. Advertising www.lafranceenrelief.fr Julie Singer, 212.221.6700 ext. 102 €5 Jan 18–Feb 17 [email protected] Account Manager - France Relief map of Cherbourg, first constructed 1813–1819, at the Grand Palais Patricia de Gramont Gaston Fébus (1331– [email protected] 1391), Prince Soleil Marie-Armande de Sparre passionate hunter, whose Book of Manon Illuminated manuscripts and MAS MEDIAS the Hunt was an important 14th- +33 (0)1.42.84.33.80 miniatures, drawings, silver A new production of Jules [email protected] century reference manual of the tableware, gold coins and lux- Massenet’s perennial favor- Classifieds animal world. ite opera whose fickle heroine C.C. Glenn, [email protected] urious objets d’art recounting Musée de Cluny, 6 place Paul is torn between love for the Subscribe to France Today the life of Gaston Fébus, a flam- Call: 800.901.6560 or boyant medieval prince, Count Painlevé, 5th, Métro: Cluny-La Chevalier Des Grieux and the log on to www.francetoday.com Sorbonne. 01.53.73.78.16. temptations of luxurious life $45/one year in the U.S. of Foix and Lord of Béarn, www.musee-moyenage.fr $80/one year outside the U.S. with richer suitors. Staged by To subscribe, renew your subscription, submit change politician, poet, author and €8.50 Through Mar 5 of address or report missing issues, contact: film director Coline Serreau, France Today Subscription Services: 333 with French star soprano Natalie West 39th Street, Ste 702, New York, NY 10018, Tel Dessay in the title role and Italian

800.901.6560, [email protected]. Major Gaston Fébus, The Book of the Hunt, c. 1387- France de Nationale © Bibliothèque Fébus Gaston Ojéda; © RMN-René-Gabriel Map credit cards accepted. Allow 6 to 8 weeks for first issue 1407, at the Musée de Cluny tenor Giuseppe Filianoti as Des to arrive and for change of address. To order back issues and for all other inquiries, contact: Grieux. FrancePress , LLC, 333 West 39th Street, Ste Opéra Bastille, Place de la Bastille, 702 , New York , NY 10018 , Tel 212.221.6700, Fax 12th, Métro: Bastille, 08.92.89.90.90 212.221.6997, [email protected] France Today (ISSN #0895-3651) is published (from abroad +33.1.71.25.24.23) monthly except bi-monthly in July-August by www.operadeparis.fr €15–€180 FrancePress, LLC, 333 West 39th Street, Suite 702, New York, NY 10018. Periodical postage paid in New In repertory Jan 10–Feb 13 York, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: send address changes to France Today, Les Masques de Jade 333 West 39th Street, Ste 702, New York , NY 10018. Copyright 2010 by FrancePress LLC Mayas All rights reserved. France Today is a registered trade- Elaborate funerary masks made mark of FrancePress LLC. This publication may not be reproduced in whole of jade mosaics, some with inlays or part without prior authorization of the publisher. of other semiprecious stones, France Today occasionally makes its mailing list available to carefully screened companies whose were created for the governors products and services may be of interest to our read- of important Mayan cities to ers. If you do not wish to receive these mailings, send instructions along with a copy of your mailing label insure them eternal life. Fifteen to the address above. have been discovered, most of Cover: Bud vase, 22 22 Editions, Photo © Jean- them included in this show of François Fanet

4 l f r a n c e t o d a y l j a n u a ry 2012 l w w w . francetoday . c o m Musée Unterlinden, 1 rue d’Unterlinden, Colmar, 03.89.20.15.50. www.musee-unterlinden.com €8 Through Feb 19

AND DON’T FORGET these events and their closing dates: PARIS Giacometti et les Etrusques Pinacothèque de Paris, Jan 8 Edvard Munch Centre Pompidou, Jan 9 La Cité Interdite Louvre, Jan 9 L’Espagne Entre Deux Siècles Musée de l’Orangerie, Jan 9 Francesco Guardi, The Doges’ Palace Seen Beauté, Morale et Volupté Musée from the Sea, c. 1780–1790, at the Bibliothèque d’Orsay, Jan 15 Nationale de France Paul Klee Polyphonies Cité de la Musique, Jan 15 Napoléon III et l’Italie Musée de more than 100 Mayan objects Bibliothèque Nationale, Site François 03.69.06.37.27. www.musees.stras- l’Armée, Jan 15 never before shown outside of Mitterrand, Quai François Mauriac, bourg.eu €6 Through Feb 19 Au Royaume d’Alexandre le Grand Musée du Louvre, Jan 16 Mexico. 13th, Métro: Bibliothèque F. Mitterrand. www.bnf.fr Sous les Tilleuls, Les Matisse, Cézanne, Picasso: La Pinacothèque de Paris, 28 €7 Through Feb 19 L’Aventure des Stein Grand Palais, Modernes: De Monet à Jan 16 place de la Madeleine, 8th, Métro: Soulages Fra Angelico Musée Jacquemart- Madeleine. 01.42.68.02.01. PROVINCE André, Jan 16 www.pinacotheque.com Tomi Ungerer et Ses The Musée Unterlinden (un- Des Jouets et des Hommes Grand €10 Jan 26–June 10 Maîtres der the linden trees, or sous les Palais, Jan 23 tilleuls) is renowned for its Sempé Hôtel de Ville, Feb 11 Funerary mask in jade mosaic, 660–750, Subtitled “Inspirations and Pompéi–Un Art de Vivre Musée splendid collection of medieval at the Pinacothèque de Paris Dialogues”, a major exhibit Maillol, Feb 12 and Renaissance art, including The Wyeths Mona Bismarck of some 300 works celebrat- Matthias Grünewald’s magnifi- Foundation, Feb 12 ing the 80th birthday of the L’Hôtel Particulier Cité de cent 16th-century Issenheim artist, illustrator and cartoon- l’Architecture, Feb 19 altarpiece, but it also has a solid Henri-Edmond Cross Musée ist by documenting the many modern and contemporary col- Marmottan Monet, Feb 19 artists who influenced him, Cézanne et Paris Musée du lection, on show for the last time including Dürer, Grünewald, Luxembourg, Feb 26 before it moves to a new exten- Le Peuple de Paris au XIXe Siècle Holbein, Casar David Friedrich, sion in 2013: Monet, Renoir, Musée Carnavalet, Feb 26 Daumier, Goya, Ernst, Dix, Et Lutèce Devint Paris Crypte Rodin, Bonnard, Dix, Soutine, Grosz and Ensor. Archéologique Parvis Notre Dame, Dubuffet and a unique tapestry Feb 26 Musée Tomi Ungerer, 2 ave of Picasso’s Guernica. Expressionismus & Expressionismi de la Marseillaise, Strasbourg, Pinacothèque de Paris, Mar 11 Fantin-Latour, Manet, Baudelaire Musée Delacroix, Mar 19 No Kiss for Mama, 1973, Kremer Collection, L’Age d’Or by Tomi Ungerer, in Strasbourg Hollandais Pinacothèque de Paris, Mar 25 Histoires de Babar Les Arts Décoratifs, Sept 2 Casanova, La Passion de PROVINCE la Liberté L’Age Roman Musée Sainte-Croix, Celebrating the acquisition Poitiers, Jan 16 Jacques Gruber et l’Art Nouveau of the original manuscript, in Galeries Poirel, Nancy, Jan 22 French, of Giacomo Casanova’s L’Europe des Esprits Musée autobiography, L’Histoire de d’Art Moderne et Contemporain, Strasbourg, Feb 12 Ma Vie, an exhibit of some 250 Charlie Chaplin Palais Lumière, manuscripts, paintings, draw- Evian, May 20 ings, engravings, sculptures and Ronan & Erwan Bouroullec Centre Pompidou-Metz, July 30 film clips tracing the life and times of the legendary 18th- Dalí, Ernst, Miró: Le Surréalisme à century Italian libertine. Some Paris Fondation Beyeler, Basel, Jan 29 facility with French is necessary For more Calendar events:

Casanova©Venezia, Fondazione Querini Stampalia; mask photo©Martirene Alcántara/INAH; Ungerer©Diogenes Verlag AG Zurich-Tomi Ungerer/Photo:Musées de la Ville de Strasbourg/M. Bertolato enjoy this one. www.francetoday.com/

w w w . francetoday . c o m l j a n u a ry 2012 l f r a n c e t o d a y l 5 by Alexander Lobrano

3 rue Richer, 9th, 01.47.70.67.31. Lunch A la Carte menus €19, €24; dinner €27, €33 Paris A Fine Pair Thanks to low rents and gastronomically adventurous locals, the 11th arrondissement continues to be a hatchery of really good, new and affordable restaurants. Among the latest, La Cave de L’Insolite is a wine bistrot with a talented Irish chef in the kitchen sending out

The upstairs dishes like marinated salmon and veal steak restaurant at with roasted potatoes and beets. 30 rue de la Folie Méricourt, 11th, 01.53.36.08.33. Lunch menu €14, à la carte €30 Over at the handsome Le Petit Cheval de Manège (the little carousel horse), Xavier Thiery, formerly of the very upmarket Lucas Carton and Lapérouse, cooks up ter- rific modern bistrot dishes like ceviche of sea L’Office bass with avocado, black olives and oranges or grilled scallops in leek cream sauce on a Paris actually more like a deboned osso bucco and giant duxelles-filled ravioli. 5 rue Froment, L’Offi c e a juicy, alabaster chicken breast slow-cooked 11th, 09.82.37.18.52. €35 for hours before a final grilling, served with Bordeaux More than ever, Paris is a magnet for ambi- girolles, celery-root puree and pickled rad- tious young chefs from all over the world. ishes. A "melting" chocolate cake with grilled Cretan Catch The latest cook to join the growing foreign bananas, hazelnuts and banana ice cream When he opened La Tupina in the Vieux talent pool is American Kevin O’Donnell, was pleasant enough but didn’t compare to Bordeaux quarter in 1968, restaurateur who worked in and at ’s the casual but confident culinary elegance Jean-Pierre Xiradakis not only created one excellent Del Posto before teaming up to of the main meal. Reserve well in advance. of the city’s most emblematic addresses— take over L’Officewith French business part- ner Charles Compagnon. In an ever more gastronomic corner of the 9th arrondisse- ment, L’Office was a good little restaurant in its previous incarnation, but it’s even better now. O’Donnell and Compagnon have given it an attractive makeover, with low lighting and sea-green walls curiously hung with a hunting trophy or two. The blackboard menu changes daily, but starters served at a recent dinner demonstrated O’Donnell’s inventive Italianate style—a serving of oven-roasted pork belly came with a fried egg, a rich puree of slow-baked tomatoes, a few leaves of arugula and a scattering of pickled red onion, while white bean soup was garnished with a large crouton topped

with a few spicy sprigs of wild fennel and a Heller B. © L’Office transparent ribbon of lardo di Colonnata— pork lard cured and aged in marble basins

in Colonnata, Italy. Main courses were Le Petit Cheval de Manège excellent too: a rich “pot-au-feu” that was

6 l f r a n c e t o d a y l j a n u a ry 2012 l w w w . francetoday . c o m Kuzina Vegetable-stuffed tomato at Kuzina Montpellier Prices are approximate, per person without Château Lunch wine. When seeking winter sun in France, Montpellier, in Languedoc-Roussillon, is a Alexander Lobrano’s book Hungry for wonderful destination. Not only is it one of Paris is published by Random House. the most popular holiday cities among the www.hungryforparis.com. French themselves, it’s also young, lively, Find it in the France Today Bookstore: endowed with some excellent museums, and www.francetoday.com/store the local restaurant scene just keeps getting better and better. The latest find is Folia, For all our restaurant reviews: at the Château de Flaugergues, a charm- www.francetoday.com/ ing 18th-century château and wine estate run by Count Folia at the Château de Flaugergues Henri de Colbert and his fam- a charming bistrot specializing in south- ily. Open for lunch only from western French farmhouse cooking—but Monday to Friday, the relaxed, also gave this beautiful but forlorn and good-value restaurant features rather forgotten district a major boost. the delicious market-driven Today, Xiradakis’s restaurants line nearly cooking of young chef Thierry a whole street in what’s become a thriv- Alix, who formerly had his ing and fashionable neighborhood. The own restaurant in Sète. Alix’s newest of them is Kuzina, a seafood res- menus change almost daily, taurant with a menu inspired by the island but a few recent offerings of Crete, recalling his Greek ancestry. The included brandade de morue mosaic-clad interior features an ice-filled made with artichoke mous- counter displaying the catch of the day, just as seline instead of potatoes; often found in Greece, and the wood-topped leek velouté sparked up with tables are set with sheets of Greek fishmon- an Espelette pepper cream ger’s wrapping paper. For starters at a recent quenelle; sautéed lamb with lunch, marinated swordfish was served with olives garnished with creamy a yellow-beet “gazpacho”, and a velouté of red polenta and beet mousse; and cabbage came with scallops and a spinach- poached orange with white- filled blini. Next came beautifully prepared chocolate ganache—all origi- fresh cod steak with lentils, and sea bream nal and delicious. Plan to visit cooked in a salt crust and garnished with the château’s spectacular gar- shiitake mushrooms. Desserts were terrific dens for a post-prandial stroll, too—caramelized clementine with chestnut too. 1744 ave Albert Einstein, sabayon, and lime-spiked cheesecake. 22 rue 04.99.52.66.35. Three-course Porte de la Monnaie, 05.56.74.32.92. Lunch prix-fixe lunch menu €19.50 menu €18, à la carte €50

w w w . francetoday . c o m l j a n u a ry 2012 l f r a n c e t o d a y l 7 BOUTIQUE BEAT Franck et Fils CornersSecret by Jennifer Ladonne

Franck et Fils Imagine Galeries Lafayette without the crowds, Bon Marché with- out the attitude, Colette without the noise and you’ve got Franck et Fils. One of Paris’s best kept secrets, this little gem of a department store is also one of the city’s oldest. When Emma Franck first opened her mercerie, or notions shop, in 1897, her selection of beautiful fab- and some of the more interesting jewelry to be found in , rics, elegant ribbons and original hats—and her one-day sales, very including the new Iki Galerie, the latest and most unusual shop on innovative for the time—made it a go-to spot for elegant Parisiennes. the two-block lineup. Owner Colette Gohel has represented artisanal The little boutique quickly grew to become one of the first depart- jewelry and textile designers for 20 years, first in Rennes and since last ment stores solely dedicated to women. After World War I, Madame November in Paris. Her new, light-filled space offers an ideal venue for Franck moved to the larger premises still in use today. The elegant the 20 or so independent jewelry makers represented here. building is small enough to peruse in an hour or two, and the sweep- The Japanese word iki conveys a notion of innate sophistica- ing central staircase, plush dove-colored carpets and choice selec- tion combined with a touch of audacity or daring, says Gohel, who tion of designer goods, along with exclusive French labels for things describes her jewelry as having a “natural elegance” imbued with like cashmere and gloves and a smashing jewelry collection, make the graceful forms found in nature. Marie Charpentier’s sculpted sil- it a perfect spot for a leisurely afternoon’s shopping. A lovely tea- ver bracelets and necklaces resemble undersea corals with smooth room serves pastry delights from La Grande Epicerie in the big Bon pearlescent centers. Lorna Balteanu’s intricate necklaces of macramé Marché department store on the Left Bank (Franck et Fils is now silk cord are laced with tiny pearls, and Armel Barroud’s whimsi- owned by the Bon Marché Group). While there is not the sheer cal Calderesque fish earrings and double tiger-head necklace are quantity found in other department stores, in fact a large part of the shaped in gold, red and silver wire. Gohel also stresses the jewelry’s appeal is that the selection has been astutely narrowed down. The approachability—all of the pieces are one-of-a-kind or made in very salespeople actually seem eager to help, and the store is still known limited editions, but their artiness is not assertive and they can eas- for its limited sales outside of the usual sale periods. 80 rue de Passy, ily be worn everyday. For a final flourish, Iki also carries a small 16th, 01.44.14.38.00. www.francketfils.fr selection of highly original silk and cashmere scarves. 18 rue du Pont Louis-Philippe, 4th, 01.44.61.44.27. www.iki-galerie.com Natural elegance Pampered Pets The upscale shops along rue du Pont Louis-Philippe—one of the The first and only department store in Paris devoted to cats and thoroughfares connecting the Ile Saint Louis and the Marais—fall dogs, Moustaches is brimming with items hand-picked for qual- into three categories: original women’s clothing, high-end stationers ity and originality. The store is divided into sections that reflect every aspect of a pampered pet’s life: play, taking a walk, dressing up, hygiene, snack time and “repose”. The departments have clever titles, too, like Sur Mon 31—a French expression for putting on the dog. A wall full of collars, harnesses and leashes includes everything from sturdy leather models in candy-colored or metallic-finish leather to over-the-top rhinestone numbers that would do Hollywood poodles proud. Parisian pets are patently no less style-conscious than their owners: an urbane Burberry-esque plaid overcoat, comfy

velour “jogging” suits and a sleek leather bomber jacket seem to be Marché Bon Le Courtesy Fils et Franck essentials for the well-appointed canine. Whether your pet prefers to gnaw on a pig’s ear or stalk a bunch of pheasant feathers, there are scores of provocative toys, and a cat carrier in mauve velvet with silver piping wouldn’t be out of place in the court of Cleopatra. 32 , 4th, 01.42.71.05.21. www.moustaches.fr n

Silk and cashmere scarves at Iki Galerie For more of the best French boutiques and shopping: www.francetoday.com

8 l f r a n c e t o d a y l j a n u a ry 2012 l w w w . francetoday . c o m Paris. 20, place Vendôme New York fl agship at 714 Madison Avenue (212) 752 4300 Artiste Joaillier

$ 1625

18k white gold ring, Amethyst, diamond pavé. www.mauboussin.us w w w . francetoday . c o m l j a n u a ry 2012 l f r a n c e t o d a y l 9

ANNONCE MAUBOUSSIN France Today mag VT2-222x283mm-24-08-2011.indd 1 24.08.11 09:53 Goude’s art installations are arranged with the same signature panache: A live model swathed in evening gown and pearls glides mysteriously around the exhibition, while Design Nowby Jean Bond Rafferty two busts of his iconic muse, Jamaican- American singer Grace Jones, indulge in a dramatic face-off. Other galleries trace Goude’s career from childhood drawings of Indians through his years as art director of Esquire (featuring his oil-on-photo paint- ing of Chairman Mao breasting the waves of the Yangtze river with a rubber Donald Duckie) to such witty advertising-clip gems as a be-feathered Vanessa Paradis swinging in a birdcage for Chanel’s Coco perfume and the irresistible adventures of the Kodakettes, mischievous kids clad in red-and-white stripes, for Kodak, that brought smiles from both parents and children visiting the show on a recent Sunday afternoon. Bravo, Monsieur Goude! Your show is a delight. www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr

Striking a new chord The Manufacture Pleyel has been making connoisseur pianos since 1807—one of its earliest clients was Frédéric Chopin. Later such famous Art Nouveau and Art Deco designers as Jacques Majorelle and Jacques- Emile Ruhlmann were brought in to design frames; more recently the company has collaborated with contemporary design- ers including Andrée Putman. Now Pleyel has decided to exploit its state-of-the-art savoir-faire in woodworking, lacquer and Dance With Fashion ad for Galeries Lafayette veneer craftsmanship by launching by Jean-Paul Goude a contemporary furniture collec- tion. American-in-Paris decorator Hilton McConnico was one of Brilliantly Goude away to display Goude’s cleverly the first to step up to the chal- When France’s Wizard of Oz—Jean-Paul devised mechanics. Stretching lenge, designing a Pleyel sofa Goude—steps out from behind the back- almost the entire length of the and armchair fin- stage curtain, it’s always to thunderous museum’s grand nave, the ished in bands applause. The artist, photographer, film- gigantic steam-spouting of matte and maker, art director, creator of ingenious locomotive that led the brilliant lac- advertising campaigns and choreographer festivities is flanked by quer, also of spectacular live events is being celebrated video screens replay- available

with a first Paris retrospective, Goudmalion, ing the big event, show- McConnico chair, Maidenberg stool © Govin Sorel; Goude © Jean-Paul Goude at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs (until ing that when it rains— March 18). When Goude gets going, the and snows—on Goude’s action is fast-forward. The show opens parades, it’s part of his with elements of his most extravagant cre- plan. Excerpts—with English ation, the July 14, 1989 Bicentennial parade commentary—show the Bri- in Paris celebrating the 200th anniversary tish contingent marching in of the French Revolution. The show starts a downpour, thanks to Paris Wonderful at the entrance, where one of 30 giant Archie stool Fire Department hoses, while by Philippe mechanical dolls that twirled down the the Russians were powdered Maidenberg Champs-Elysées stands with her vast skirt cut and Hilton with artificial snow. McConnico's armchair, both for Pleyel 10 l f r a n c e t o d a y l j a n u a ry 2012 l w w w . francetoday . c o m Ceramic and fabric collaboration The Circus knife by Pierre Frey and ceramicist holder by VIncent Buffile; insert, a Bakou 22 22 Editions printed weekend bag Flowers and fireflies When winter comes can spring be far behind? Artist and designer Joy de Rohan-Chabot’s latest Lucioles (Fireflies) collection in wood, bronze and glass pro- vides a whimsical foretaste of balmy days in a magical garden. Inspired by her poetic vision of nature, Rohan-Chabot’s huge iridescent bronze butterfly spreads its wings to support a cloud-shaped glass tabletop while delicately painted blooms scram- in birch plywood and var- ble up the back of an nished Makassar ebony. elegant bronze chair The rounded backs of the and tiny gilded birds sofa and chair echo a pia- perch on the twigs no’s curves, and comfort is of tree branches that assured by cushions covered support a three-tier in leather, velvet or silk taf- glass console. True to The cane-patterned feta. Paris-based designer the collection’s title, laser-cut metal Alice Etcaetera’s Harmonie et small gilded bronze chair by 22 22 Editions Contraste oval dining and coffee tables are made trees are hung with beau- of solid, smoothly rounded or oval natural olive tiful butterflies and glass candle jars that twinkle ash with a contrasting black lacquer central strip like fireflies when lighted at night. Each bronze and curved black lacquer supports. Her wavy design, made in collaboration with the Fusion Ceramics and bag © Pierre Frey; knife holder, red chair © Jean-François Fanet; flowering chair © Joy de Rohan-Chabot de Joy © chair flowering Fanet; © Jean-François chair red holder, knife Frey; © Pierre bag and Ceramics Art Deco-style folding screen features a central foundry in Auvergne, is unique, but similar panel of brilliant black lacquer between two sculptural works may be ordered on commis- panels of olive ash. Hotel architect and designer sion. www.joyderohanchabot.com; Philippe Maidenberg’s line of Wonderful Archie www.galeriematignon.com medium-high stools has a suitably musical in- Frosted, fragile and fun spiration, derived from the stage stool he in- Faridha El Gabsi and Jean-Claude Cardiet, a vented for saxophonist Archie Shepp. Produced former perfume flacon designer, have pledged in a 99-piece limited edition, it comes in mahog- their 22 22 Edition Design production compa- any or birch plywood with solid beech legs in a ny to champion humor and poetry in “beauti- choice of colors and finishes. www.pleyel.fr ful objects that combine function and fiction”, Mixed media recounting stories with a twist to add mystery— On vacation in Provence, French fabric king and a dash of surrealism—to everyday objects. Patrick Frey discovered the ceramic artistry of Their six-object first collection tells some eclec- Vincent Buffile in the Aix-en-Provence studio tic tales, from a frosted-glass Biblio lamp in the circus knife-thrower that is bound the ceramicist shares with his wife Monique. shape of luminous books that slips in among the to brighten up the most minimalist real ones on the shelf to a chaise longue strung Their meeting led to mutual enthusiasm for a kitchen. www.2222editiondesign.fr n creative collaboration. Buffile’s “ink-splattered” with pearlized plastic balls. Still stylish, but more abstract ceramic designs gave birth to the new mainstream, an updated cane-patterned chair For more Design Now: black-and-white Pierre Frey fabric called Léo, is “designed like a construction puzzle” and www.francetoday.com/ while such graphic Frey fabric motifs as Ondes, made of laser-cut metal. “As beautiful and frag- Flowering garden ile as an art object” is Cardiet’s description chair by Joy de Théssalie, Concorde and Rameaux, along with Rohan-Chabot Bakou from the printed Frey handbag and lug- of the porcelain Ciel & Terre (Sky & Earth) gage accessory range, inspired a collection of bud vase that reverses into Buffile’s decorative cera- a basket or a candle- mic plates, vases and holder—the product of cachepots. Pierre Frey, a newly developed 2 bis rue de Furstenberg, Limoges porce- 01.43.26.82.61. lain technique. The www.pierrefrey.com; www. most fun: the hot-red buffile-ceramiste.com enameled porcelain knife holder emblazoned with the female-silhouette target of a

w w w . francetoday . c o m l j a n u a ry 2012 l f r a n c e t o d a y l 11 Val d’Isère A beautiful Alpine village with simply magnificent skiing by Ellen Wallace Alpine High

12 l f r a n c e t o d a y l j a n u a ry 2012 l w w w . francetoday . c o m he closest you can get to heaven on earth is Val d’Isère, Winter . In the French département of Savoie, near the gla- some people will argue—and they are right—because cial source of the Isère River and only a few miles from the Italian it has one of the best bakeries in France, the family border, Val d’Isère is easily reached by car, only a 3-1/2 hour drive business of native son Patrick Chevallot, who holds from Geneva, which has the closest international airport; , the a coveted medal as a Meilleur Ouvrier de France for closest major French hub, is slightly farther away. The Alpine drive pastry and confections. is beautiful and relatively easy, but if you’re doing it in winter, snow TOf course the resort village, snugly nestled in an Alpine valley tires are a must. (Chains are rarely needed but should be on hand at 6,000 feet in altitude, also has spectacular skiing, snowboarding just in case.) and other winter sports for the adventuresome—like ice-wall climb- The last 16 miles, all uphill from the town of Bourg Saint ing—along with great food, delightful bars, hotels for every taste and Maurice, offer a spectacular view of the Vanoise National Park and budget, and a surfeit of visual charm, thanks to local stonework and the Tarentaise Valley, with the road flattening out only when you village architecture that dates back several centuries. reach the modern, 1960s ski-buff hamlet of Tignes. Together with Val d’Isère it makes up the vast Espace Killy ski area, named after Skiers’ paradise famous local son Jean-Claude Killy—triple-crown winner of Val d’Isère is one of several well-known French stations de ski that Olympic gold in downhill, slalom and grand slalom in 1968, with fan out from the valley town of Albertville, the home of the 1992 a series of World Championships and World Cup titles en plus con-

w w w . francetoday . c o m l j a n u a ry 2012 l f r a n c e t o d a y l 13 Ups &

The village center with its 16th-century church

The ski area is simply magnificent, a per- The Chevallot fect mix of exacting runs for the world’s best bakery skiers—Val d’Isère is a regular World Cup Wallace/GenevaLunch.com Ellen © bakery d'Isère; Val duTourisme Nuts-Office Agence © village d'Isère; Val du Tourisme © Royer/Office page double Previous host—and a manageable layout of three main ski sectors that hook up at the top, with plenty of opportunities for beginners and fair-weather skiers. by Suzanna Chambers Serious sustenance The first clue that this is serious ski-bum country is the main street at 8:00 am, where corners are crowded with young guys and their gear waiting for the free shuttle bus to get them to the lifts when they open. This is also the moment when you real- ize that baker Chevallot’s cozy main-street shop is like no other in France. Business is booming, and while half the clients are buy- ing bread for the family’s breakfast, the other half is stomping the snow off ski boots and firming him as one of the world’s all-time protection from the wild winter weather. stocking up on hearty salés, savory special- great skiers. A fine example is the new local history ties that go straight into their backpacks— Beyond their shared peaks and ski lifts, museum, well worth a visit, which opened two-inch thick quiches, for example, spinach Tignes and Val d’Isère could not be more in time for the holidays. and salmon or maybe goat and leek. different. In the space of some two-and-a- The village also has summer visitors, since A smiling couple is enjoying breakfast at a half miles, the high-rises and noisy night- there’s a high pass open to Italy and moun- corner table of the bakery’s little tearoom. clubs of Tignes give way to beautiful Val tain trails for experienced hikers, but it lives “We make things for people going off to d’Isère, with some 1,200 or more year-round off its winter sports business. The road to do sports, who need something to sustain residents and a true village life, despite the Italy is quickly invisible once the first big them,” says Chevallot, who stops every two steady influx of tourists from December snowfall arrives, giving the impression that minutes to greet another old friend as people to early May. Traditional Savoyard archi- this is the last stop for humans—after this stream in the door. Some are returning ski- tecture dominates, with local pale gray Mother Nature takes over the rugged peaks ers, but early in December, most are villagers stone facades, wood trim in abundance, and animal life that are part of the Vanoise talking weather and taxes. giant beams and extended roofs that offer National Park and its nature reserves. The bakery produces extraordinary

14 l f r a n c e t o d a y l j a n u a ry 2012 l w w w . francetoday . c o m Dashing through the snow

● VAL D’ISERE NOTEBOOK Where to stay Most hotels are open early December to mid-April. Palatial Les Barmes de l’Ours Hugging the Olympic run, Michelin one-star restaurant, balconies with great views, magical spa. Scandinavian, American or Savoyard-style rooms. Top floor suite is a honeymoon must! Chemin des Carats, 04.79.41.37.00, www.hotel-les-barmes.com Le Savoie Recently renovated, spacious hotel rooms and suites for families, great play areas breads, including varieties made with also because it is constantly reworked by with toys and electronic games. Restaurant Le potato puree and . But a fleet of snowplows whose drivers have Grain de Sel (try the chicken), splen- there are elegant delicacies too, as the pas- an extraordinary job, re-creating village did dessert menu from top French pastry try display in the window makes clear. streets and spaces using snow, to guarantee chef Philippe Rigollot. Avenue Olympique, “We do the classics,” says Chevallot, “lem- that pedestrians remain kings. The plows 04.79.00.01.15, www.lesavoie.com on tarts, éclairs and gâteaux aux myrtilles, but churn up the snow every morning to keep our specialty is old recipes, traditional ones it from getting icy underfoot, and they Reasonable that many bakeries have abandoned, think- block off streets with new snowbanks. Avenue Lodge Chic, contemporary, warm ing people aren’t interested anymore. We (Tip: if you’re nervous about icy patches, and welcoming, great restaurant and bar, rework them a bit,” he adds as he makes a treat yourself to a pair of mini-chains convenient, good service. Avenue Olympique, sweeping gesture toward the bakery’s shelves, for the bottom of your boots, available at 04.79.00.67.67, www.hotelavenuelodge.com piled high with the kind of goodies that bring sports shops.) Ormelune Two years old, best deal in town out the child in all of us. Snow is what Val d’Isère is all about, with range of prices, funky bright design, airy and the best place for it is on top of the rooms. Rue Noël Machet, 04.79.06.12.93, Snug shops, funky cafés mountain. The piste maps from the tourist www.ormelune.com Both exquisite and tradi- office are easy to use (but if you have an Les Lauzes Basic, comfortable, cozy tional Savoyard dishes are easy to find in iPhone definitely get the piste-map app). dark wood paneling. Place de l’Eglise, Val d’Isère too. The hotel Le Savoie, across The Solaise is the lift area at the center, just 04.79.06.04.20, www.hotel-lauzes.com the street from Chevallot, gave the reins of above the village, but the bus takes only 10 Where to eat its restaurant Le Grain de Sel to 29-year- minutes to reach either end of the village, Other than hotel restaurants old chef Alexandre Fabris who, despite his and from there you’re at the top in 10 to Maison Chevallot The heavenly bakery. Val youth, is noted for updated recipes from 15 minutes. North of the village the slopes Village (main roundabout), 04.79.06.16.09, his grandmother and her generation. are austere and covered in avalanche www.chevallot.com The Chevallot bakery and the Wine protection fences. The ski slopes are all on La Sana Quick but good hot lunch outdoors Not wine bar at Le Savoie are just two of the village’s south side, meaning they are at foot of the central village chairlift. Résidence the many stops in Val d’Isère that are a dis- mostly north-facing and the snow lasts Le Grand Cocor, 04.79.07.04.54. traction for those who are not hell-bent on longer, but the valley is wide enough for Le Coin des Amis Asian food, nibbles, beer, getting to the ski runs. There are so many skiers to be in the sun most of the time. takeaway. Place Jacques Moufflier, Le Vieux great little shops, and they aren’t all selling Lifts are open until 4:45 pm, even in early Val. just sports gear, as in many resorts. December. La Corniche Fondue, raclette, stone-grilled The narrow lanes of the old village are It’s fairly amazing, given its World Cup- meats and authentic Savoyard dishes. Vieux ideal for snug little boutiques, funky cafés level skiing reputation, to discover that Val Village, 04.79.06.18.75. and restaurants—and nearly a pedestrian’s d’Isère is also a very family-friendly resort. Le Wine Not The wine bar at Hôtel Le Savoie, dream. Cars are allowed, but there is The center of the village was cleared (and light meals from noon on, works with one of virtually no parking on the streets. (Tip: a pedestrian tunnel run under it) to create France’s top sommeliers, tasting courses on drop off your bags at your hotel and leave an open play space for kids and snowmen, offer. Avenue Olympique, 04.79.00.01.15. the car in one of the parking lots.) where in midwinter little groups gather La Casa Scara Inexpensive southern Italian with ski teachers at the start of lessons. Just food, sometimes a special open wine of the Glorious snow! under the Olympic ski lift in the village day. Place de l’Eglise, 04.79.06.26.21. In 2008, the village also stopped using salt center, the three-year-old sports center on the streets. The snow remains gloriously offers a swimming pool, fitness room, For more travel features: www.francetoday.com n Photo © Andi Parant/OfficeTourisme du Val d'Isère white and fresh-looking as a result, but therapy pool and a kids’ play area.

w w w . francetoday . c o m l j a n u a ry 2012 l f r a n c e t o d a y l 15 Fondue Savoyarde by Christina Rebuffet-Broadus

riends, still dressed in their ski ranking right up there with chocolate and garb, gather on a restaurant terrace Dipping chunks of precision watches. But for the French, cheese to skewer bread cubes onto long fondue is 100% Savoyarde, from France’s pre- forks before dunking them into a bread into a mier ski region. So who dipped into the gooey bubbling cast-iron or earthenware goodness first, the Swiss or the Savoyards? caquelon. Steam wafts from the cauldron of melted According to Isabelle Raboud Schüle, direc- pot, a miniature volcano among cheese is a traditional tor of the Musée Gruérien in Bulle, Switzerland, the snow-capped summits. The image might fondue first delighted elite city-dwellers in plac- dateF from an old 1950s postcard, but fast- es like Zurich, where the earliest known recipe Alpine treat—but who forward to the 21st century, and not much has appeared in 1699. “It’s hard to say exactly who changed slopeside. A ski vacation in the Alps dunked first? invented the dish,” she cautions, “but through- still means fondue. out the 18th and 19th centuries, recipes for The wintry meal gets its name from the verb fondue were common in urban bourgeois fondre, to melt. There’s no debate about that. But the argument over kitchens.” Swiss kitchens, that is. where fondue comes from and exactly what goes into it, however, On the other side of the Alps, Thierry Thorens, gourmet writer rages up and down the mountainside. and chef at Morzine’s La Chamade restaurant, claims that fondue resulted from the need to use leftover cheese. Alpine peasants Swiss or Savoyarde? enjoyed few luxuries and cheese was one of their more precious

For most people around the world, fondue symbolizes Switzerland, treasures. According to Thorens, melting several together Photo © Savoie Mont Blanc/Lansard

16 l f r a n c e t o d a y l j a n u a ry 2012 l w w w . francetoday . c o m offered a way to use leftover cheese, morsels that “the burner-caquelon couple has only Do you speak fondue? that would have otherwise been lost. been standard household equipment since An invitation to a fondue dinner offers the It’s important to remember that the Alps the 1950s. It wasn’t so common for earlier occasion to observe a number of rituals form a natural border, but man drew the generations.” that have developed over the years. The best Franco-Swiss frontier right through them. After World War II, the cheese marketing opportunity is when il fait un temps à fon- “Cheesemakers from Switzerland’s Gruyère agency renewed its 1930s campaign, again due—it’s fondue weather. The wind chills, region would naturally have traveled to Savoie pushing people to ratchet up consumption the clouds cloak the sun and the atmosphere and the French ,” Raboud Schüle points of Gruyère and . A plentiful supply absolutely calls for something hot, filling out. “The cheesemakers shared their savoir- after years of wartime restrictions, improve- and comforting. faire with their neighbors, since Swiss dairy ments in fondue paraphernalia and intense Once the caquelon bubbles, your host farmers had perfected hard-rind cheeses like marketing efforts meant that Alpine society may insist on tracing figure eights in the Gruyère.” simply melted for rich, decadent fondue. melted cheese, supposedly the best way to What’s more, it’s a fun, easy dinner that brings prevent a solid ball from forming. “It’s more Marketing melted cheese friends and family together around a deli- of a mnemonic device so you don’t forget to Fondue may have been around in various cious dish. Who wouldn’t melt over that? stir the mixture from time to time,” contends homemade forms since the 17th century, but Raboud Schüle. “There’s no magic in the Switzerland and the rest of the world would figure eight.” have to wait for a between-the-wars surplus You may have to buy While dunking, plant the bread firmly of cheese for the dish to climb to its iconic onto the fork. If it falls off in the cheese, status. During the 1930s, Swiss farmers pro- a round of drinks, you’re sure to get a gage—an obligation to duced much more cheese than Swiss citizens buy a round of drinks, kiss your neighbor, consumed. To boost sales, the Switzerland kiss your neighbor or or worse, run (somewhat) naked through Cheese Marketing agency needed to con- the snow. Better be sure your bread cube can vince people to eat more cheese, and the run naked through survive a fondue dunk if you want your dig- more different preparations there were to nity to survive a fondue dinner. tempt them the better. the snow. After the cheese has been swirled up fork- In a smart move, the Union suggested ful by forkful and finished, the pot will be four different types of fondue, each linked And what a choice of paraphernalia there crusted with toasted cheese. The near-burnt to a different region. A citizen of Fribourg is. Fondue sets have long been a popular layer even has its own name—la religieuse— would then be proud to serve a pot of bub- Alpine souvenir. Some are decorated with and this “nun” at the bottom of the pot is bling vacherin cheese mixed with a little edelweiss, others come in bold Bordeaux for some, a near-religious delight. Some say water. In the Valais area, a little tomato sauce red or sapphire. There’s even a small heart- that’s where the name comes from. Others added a signature rose tint. In Geneva or the shaped pot for a romantic chocolate fondue claim the vaguely Communion-wafer tex- Vaud region, local wines spiked local fon- dessert. While fondue apparently still has a ture led to the name. In either case, the due. People soon latched onto their regional long life ahead, it has been popular for long scraping sound at the end of the meal means recipe, which joined the ranks of popular enough to earn its own rites and language. that, for some, the best is yet to come. n specialties. Fondue savoyarde followed suit, using more French cheeses than Swiss. A common recipe calls for 1/3 Comté, 1/3 Beaufort— La Fondue Savoyarde enough to help them stay on the forks two of France’s finest mountain cheeses— when dipped into the melted cheese. and 1/3 Swiss Gruyère. Some French fondue If you can’t find all these cheeses, use a fans may also add Abondance, a semihard mixture of Emmental and Gruyère At serving time, cut the garlic clove in cheese named after the Savoyarde breed of half and rub the inside of the fondue pot cows who supply the milk, and a town in 4 oz. shredded Beaufort cheese with it. Add the white wine and place the Haute-Savoie. But, as in Switzerland, no 4 oz. shredded Emmental cheese the pot on the stove over medium heat. single recipe reigns. 4 oz. shredded Comté cheese When the wine is hot, add the cheese by 1 garlic clove handfuls, stirring constantly. Do not add From clay pot to caquelon 1 glass of white Savoie wine, such as all the cheese at once. Stir the mixture An 18th-century cook would hardly rec- Apremont, or any light, delicate white wine until it is homogenous. Add pepper to ognize a modern fondue set. Although the Baguette bread cut into 1 inch cubes taste and transfer the fondue pot from enameled cast iron caquelon, its convenient several hours before eating the stove to the burner on the table. alcohol burner and color-coded forks made for many successful soirées in the 1970s, If you’re having the fondue at night, cut Each guest sticks a cube of bread on their the earliest fondue equipment consisted of the bread into cubes in the morning. This fork and dips it into the pot, being careful more rustic material—often just a clay pot way they will have time to dry out just not to lose the bread! and glowing embers. Raboud Schüle notes

w w w . francetoday . c o m l j a n u a ry 2012 l f r a n c e t o d a y l 17 Blithe Spirit

WINE & SPIRITS Blithe Spirit Some of the rarest Cognac in the world owes its existence to the English by Chris Redman

obody knows for Just as somebody in Bourbon County, sure why the prac- Kentucky, discovered that charred tice started. Maybe barrels make a better whisky, the good it was an early merchants of Bristol observed that the example of the bulk young, early-landed Cognac they had buy. A plausible but placed in their deep, dank cellars not unprovable explana- only got better with age—a phenomenon tion is that English already recognized by the Cognac cogno- merchants were getting tired of seeing scenti—but also matured in a way that was theirN supplies of French brandy inter- decidedly different from the brandy laid rupted by the incessant Anglo-French down for aging in France. It was paler, wars of the 18th century and decided they mellower and somehow softer and more needed a strategic stockpile from which fragrant—particularly if the barrels were to supply their customers. But whatever left undisturbed like sleeping beauties for the reason, sometime around the 1750s ten or twenty years. The merchants liked a few enterprising English merchants, it and so did others. Customers for the operating mainly out of the ancient port early-landed, Bristol-aged Cognac soon of Bristol, started buying their Cognac included the great colleges of Oxford from France in barrels rather than bot- and Cambridge, whose fellows liked tles, which tend to get smashed in stormy to indulge in good brandy when they seas. They bought it young—presumably weren’t knocking back the vintage port. because it was cheaper that way—then Members of the aristocracy and even the matured it in their own cellars. Because royal family itself were not far behind.

it arrived in England much sooner than & Co. Hine Thomas Courtesy Bottle would otherwise have been the case (and The flavor factor before it could be sold legally), it was A market was born, and word of this dubbed “early-landed” Cognac. early-landed brandy soon got out. The What happened next is not the sub- French Cognac houses could have scup- ject of any historical record or account pered the Bristol merchants by denying but clearly involved a good deal of them their raw material, but the market that wonderful ingredient, serendipity. was too porous, and if an embargo was

18 l f r a n c e t o d a y l j a n u a ry 2012 l w w w . francetoday . c o m ever considered it was certainly not until the time came for bottling, and implemented. Instead many Cognac Sixth-generation Bernard Hine, vintage statements were effectively the company’s houses—notably Hine and Delamain, honorary president banned. founded respectively by Englishman Cognacs were—and still largely Thomas Hine and Irishman James are—blends of spirit from differ- Delamain—decided to get in on the act ent years, different distillations and and started shipping their own brandy different barrels, the aim being a to England to be landed early. consistency of taste to maintain a What the Cognac houses realized house style rather than showcasing was that they could not replicate the a particular year with its idiosyncra- early-landed taste back home in France. sies. So Cognac connoisseurs who This was due entirely to the condi- wanted to taste a special vintage— tions in which early-landed Cognac is the legendary 1928 or 1948 for matured. Bristol’s deep cellars, carved example—were forced to go to out of the chalk that lies underneath the certain retailers, like Averys of port city, are cooler and much damper Bristol or London-based Berry than the chais of Cognac and Jarnac, Bros. & Rudd, to buy from their the twin towns of Cognac production. early-landed supplies. Through the Relative humidity in the latter fluctuates years, however, some of the Cognac between 40% and 60% while in houses, including Hine and Bristol’s cellars the humidity rarely falls Delamain, have built up early- below 95%. And whereas the tempera- landed stocks in Britain—which ture of the French chais can reach as is why they can now offer vintage high as 72º F in the summer months, Cognacs. Bristol’s cellars maintain a steady, chilly These days very little early-landed 46–53º F. The main result is that the two Cognac is matured in Bristol, where brandies mature in ways that make them the famous old cellars have been very different. France’s drier, warmer forced out by redevelopment cellars make for higher evaporation of in the city center. Hine water and alcohol from the spirit, with and tastes from the wood also has stocks matur- the water disappearing faster than the alco- that intensifies with age. ing on the Scottish hol (which evaporates at a rate of around Early-landed Cognac, island of Islay, justly 2% a year—the so-called part des anges, the on the other hand, is famous for its great angels’ share). As a result the ratio of alco- characterized by its malt whiskies. But hol to water (the so-called cask strength) finesse and fragrance, most early-landed remains higher. So when it’s time to bot- its lighter color, its stocks are now tle the golden liquid, the France-matured delicate floral notes in the tender care spirit is watered down to reduce the and long finish—char- of John Barrett, alcohol content to the customary 40%, acteristics that make it whose Bristol wine whereas early-landed Cognac loses less a favorite with connois- background led him James Delamain water, thanks to its humid surroundings, seurs. (1738–1800) to found the Bristol and hits the 40% alcohol mark naturally. Spirits company back But the most important flavor factor Legendary years in the 1970s. Since then is the difference in the ways the maturing The vintage mystique has also Barrett has become the virtual spirits with their particular alcohol and drawn these connoisseurs to early-land- custodian of early-landed Cognac, water levels react with the barrel and the ed Cognac. Until relatively recently it has first in an underground quarry near the vil- surrounding atmosphere (remember, been very difficult to bottle or buy vintage lage of Wickwar in rural Gloucestershire wooden barrels are not 100% airtight and Cognac in France—that is to say, Cognac and now in the northern port of Liverpool, watertight). Cognac matured under French bearing the date of the year in which it was where he also matures early-landed rum. conditions extracts and assimilates more distilled and the date it was bottled (thus Barrett won’t confirm how many hogsheads compounds such as tannins from the wood allowing the buyer to calculate how long of Cognac are slumbering in his cellars but of the barrel and becomes more oxidized, it spent maturing in the barrel). The law there’s enough, he says, to keep the connois- giving it a much darker hue than early- changed in 1989, but before that there was seurs happy for the foreseeable future. Let’s landed Cognac, with hints of so-called no mechanism in the French regulatory sys- drink to that. n rancio—the term given by Cognac tem that allowed Cognac of a particular vin- For more about French wine & spirits:

Hine © Franck Charel; portrait Courtesy Delamain aficionados to that complex blend of aromas tage to be easily segregated from other years www.francetoday.com

w w w . francetoday . c o m l j a n u a ry 2012 l f r a n c e t o d a y l 19 FrAnce TODAY

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FRENCH KITCHEN

Of Bakers and Baguettes by Susan Herrmann Loomis

tear the end off the baguette I’ve regulate themselves. They decide, neighbor- might have come up from his basement just purchased at Aux Blés d’Or, my hood by neighborhood, to “fix” the price of a ovens and be behind the counter too, sur- favorite bakery in town, and bite baguette. That way, no one undersells any- veying the bread supply and getting a quick into it as I walk home through the one else. The other thing bakers do is make glimpse of those who eat his wares. “I like to chilly mist of an early Indian sum- sure one of their profession is open in each see what the clients are actually buying,” he mer morning. As I listen to the neighborhood, every day. They stagger their said. “Besides, it’s fun up here!” sounds of a French town waking days off and their vacations. Is this proof that For Bénard, 40, there was never any doubt up, my mouth is flooded with an intoxicat- revolutions work? about what he wanted to do with his life. “I Iing yeasty, toasty flavor. It’s more likely proof that the French adore always wanted to be a baker,” he said. “I grew I never tire of that first, crusty bite of their bread. On average, they consume about up in a bakery and loved it.” His mother con- baguette, though I experience it nearly five ounces a day, and a recent poll showed vinced his older brothers to be bakers, and every morning. It’s so fulsome, so satisfying, that the French bakery is a French person’s him to specialize in pastry. “I never thought so comforting. It’s also reassuring, just like favorite shop. about not doing what she said,” he said, the golden light from the bakery that is the laughing. “But I loved making bread so I only one ablaze early in the morning. When Conqueror’s loaf studied that too.” He confesses to being occa- everyone sleeps, the baker is in his flour- It’s easy to understand why when you walk sionally torn between the disciplines. “One dusted domain, working so that we can eat. into Aux Blés d’Or. Not only does baker day I’ll focus more on pastries,” he said. “For Bread wasn’t always so easily had in Frédéric Bénard offer more than a dozen now, bread keeps me busy.” France. The French Revolution was about varieties of bread, but his companion, Bénard is up at 3 am, six mornings a week, bread—not the lack of it, but its price. Then, Nadège Marais, makes each client feel as if to get the ovens hot, the dough mixed, the only the very wealthy could indulge. “Let they’ve just caused the sun to rise. She greets breads shaped. The whole place looks as if them eat cake” (or brioche, as it is thought those she knows by name, asks about their someone went through it with a giant sift- Marie Antoinette actually said) eventually children, their illness, their pet. For regu- er. “No matter how much we sweep, there’s led to regulated bread prices, and a hearty lars, she’s got their favorite bread wrapped always flour everywhere,” he said. recipe that included three-fourths white and ready by the time they get to the cash Aux Blés d’Or offers new varieties of bread flour and one-fourth rye so that not only register. For others, she takes as much time to its clients on a regular basis. Where does could the citizenry enjoy bread, it was nutri- as needed to help them decide what to pur- Bénard get his ideas? “From the flour mills,” he tious, too. chase. Whether it be an ordinary baguette or said. “They offer us premixed flours and reci- Today, bread prices are no longer regu- an apple tart, the greeting and the treatment pes. I like to offer new things to our clients.” lated. What happens—and this is some- are exactly the same. “New” breads might include a rustic loaf

Photo © PackShot - Fotolia.com thing of a well-kept secret—is that bakers Depending on the time of day, Bénard called a fagotine that is made with flour and

w w w . francetoday . c o m l j a n u a ry 2012 l f r a n c e t o d a y l 21 powdered sourdough. “The pow- dered sourdough gives it an old- BREAD AND CINNAMON CREAM TART fashioned sourdough flavor,” Mr. TARTE AU PAIN A LA CREME ET CANNELLE Bénard said. “I want to make my The following recipe comes from the region of Alsace. I could own sourdough, but it’s tricky, have supplied a recipe for French bread but, really, only the and right now I don’t have time bakers here do it right. So make this dessert, take a bite and to do it.” He just introduced a fat close your eyes. Bread never tasted so good! little loaf called Hastings, le pain des conquérants (the bread of For the dough: conquerors). The reference is to 1 tsp active dry yeast the Battle of Hastings, in 1066, 1 cup (250 ml) milk, heated to lukewarm when the Norman William the 1/2 cup (100 g) sugar Conqueror gained control of Frédéric Bénard 3-1/2 to 3-3/4 cups (475–500 g) unbleached all-purpose flour England. With its blend of rye, 1 tsp fine sea salt barley and wheat flours, and its wasn’t a creak or a crack, but a 2 large eggs heavy complement of sunflower gentle, confident hum. “I grind 1/2 pound (250 g or 16 tbsp) unsalted butter, cut in pieces, and flax seeds, this Hastings local grain twice a year, keep the at room temperature could well sustain an army. flour cold and use it every day,” For the cream topping: Retrodor is another popular loaf he said. The resulting loaf is a 2 cups (500 ml) crème fraîche made with flour ground from whole-wheat wonder, filled with 6 tbsp vanilla sugar different wheat varieties. flavor, texture and life. 1 heaping tsp ground cinnamon (preferably from Vietnam) Back at the bakery he led the 2 firm apples, peeled, cored and thinly sliced Milling around way down to his basement work- Not too far from Aux Blés d’Or, space, which smelled like a floury 1. Prepare dough: Combine yeast, milk and sugar in a large in the town of Bernay, André brewery. There, he showed me bowl or the bowl of an electric mixer, and mix well. Add 1 Sourdon, 57, works his own par- his second exception—a plastic cup (135 g) of flour and the salt and mix well. Add eggs one ticular magic with bread. His bucket filled with puffy sourdough at a time, mixing well after each. Add enough remaining flour specialty? Some of the same vari- starter. “We use it every day,” he so dough is thick. It will be quite soft and even sticky. Don’t eties as Bénard, but his methods said. “We bakers are so privileged. add more than the maximum amount of flour, as this is a include two major exceptions. We work with the beginning of soft dough—too much flour can toughen it. Knead dough by “I grind my own flour,” Sourdon life. That’s what fermentation is, slapping it against the sides of the bowl until it becomes quite says with pride. “I’ll take you to that’s where it all begins.” elastic, about 10 min by hand, 5 min in a mixer. see my mill if you’re interested.” Sourdon agrees with Bénard on 2. Add butter several pieces at a time, mixing until it is incor- He didn’t have to ask twice. We the subject of levain, or leavening. porated. Continue kneading until dough is increasingly elastic, jumped in his car and were soon “It is tricky; you have to watch it, about 8 min by hand, 5 min in mixer. driving down narrow country take its temperature, keep it sta- 3. Cover bowl with a damp cloth and let dough rise in a warm roads. We pulled off near a large ble,” he says. “You just learn how spot until doubled, about 1-1/2 hours. timbered house with a river run- to do it, and it makes your bread 4. Heavily butter and flour a 12-1/2 inch (32 cm) round cake pan. ning through the sheep-mown fantastic.” 5. Lightly flour your hands and punch down dough so it is com- backyard. We got out, went down Bénard and Sourdon are two pletely deflated. Turn dough into prepared cake pan, pressing it a few steps and across a narrow country bakers. One is in the out nearly to the edges of the pan. Cover loosely and let rise in bridge to an ancient mill with a middle of his career, the other is a warm spot until it is 2-1/2 to 3 inches high and nearly fills the small water wheel. “Here it is,” he nearing retirement. Both enjoy pan, about 45 min. said. “I changed all the paddles a every crumb of their business, in 6. Prepare topping: mix together crème fraîche and vanilla few years ago, but other than that, somewhat different ways. Each sugar. I haven’t had to do anything.” bodes well for the present and 7. Preheat oven to 400° F (200° C) Sourdon, who has recently future of French bread. n 8. When dough has risen, dust three fingers with flour and retired from full-time baking, poke holes all over top of dough, dipping fingers into flour paid his solemn respects to the Susan Herrmann Loomis teaches occasionally so they don’t stick. Slowly pour crème fraîche over water wheel then motioned cooking classes in Normandy dough. Most will run into the holes, while some will run over Photo © Susan Herrmann Loomis Herrmann © Susan Photo me inside the mill. He flicked a and Paris. www.onruetatin.com. the side. Sprinkle cinnamon evenly over top, arrange apple switch. Outside, the water wheel Find her cookbooks in the France slices over all, place in center of oven, and bake until golden began to turn; inside, the cogs Today Bookstore: and puffed, 25 to 30 min. and belts of this small mill, which www.francetoday.com/store 9. Remove tart from oven and let cool for 5 min before serving. was first built four hundred years ago, then refurbished a hundred For more food stories and 10 servings years ago, began to turn. There recipes: www.francetoday.com/

22 l f r a n c e t o d a y l j a n u a ry 2012 l w w w . francetoday . c o m Film Picks

Box office

The top 10 movie hits in France 1 Intouchables (Untouchable) Eric Toledano, Olivier Nakache 2 The Twilight Saga: Breaking Dawn-Part 1 Bill Condon Top 3 In Time Andrew Niccol 4 Immortals Tarsem Singh French Train Films 5 Arthur Christmas Sarah Smith The clack of the rails and the whirr of the camera have a long history together. 6 Black Gold Here’s a cinematic train journey through France. Jean-Jacques Annaud 7 The Adventures of Tintin by Cécile Mouette Downs Steven Spielberg 8 Les Neiges du Kilimandjaro FIRST TRAIN OUT… based on Emile Zola’s novel, Memorable adventures (The Snows of Kilimanjaro) L’Arrivée d’un Train en is said to 6be a precursor of ensue, not only for Bébert Robert Guédiguian Gare de La Ciotat (Arrival of the Hollywood version of but for those he encounters, 9 Mon Pire Cauchemar a Train at La Ciotat) Auguste film noir in the 1940s. until Tiennot finally finds (My Worst Nightmare) & Louis Lumière, 1895 him to bring him home. One of the first movies ever TRAINS AND WAR 10 Les Adoptés Mélanie Laurent made, this 50-second silent La Bataille du Rail (The MURDER ON THE documentary shows with Battle of the Rails) René NIGHT TRAIN dramatic effect the entry Clément, 1946 Compartiment Tueurs ready to go to any lengths of a train into the station During the Nazi occupation, (The Sleeping Car Murder) to become part of her life. of La Ciotat, in Provence. when France’s Vichy Costa-Gavras, 1965 Legendary actor Alain Delon Legend says that the life-size government used French On the night train from won his first and only César moving image of the steam trains to help the Germans Marseille to Paris, a young for his turn in this film, a departure from his usual BEST locomotive coming directly deport French Jews to woman is murdered in the at the audience created concentration camps, French sleeping compartment she more heroic roles. SELLERS panic among the spectators railway workers supported shares with five passengers. IN FRANCE unfamiliar with the magic the Resistance by sabotaging As the other passengers, TIED for SEVENTH: of moving pictures. This train traffic. La Bataille du who are both primary Zazie dans le Métro (Zazie FICTION in the Underground) Louis short jewel, first presented Rail tells their true story in witnesses and suspects, are La Couleur des Sentiments Malle, 1960. Surrealist in January 1896, can be seen fictionalized form. Filmed killed one by one, urgency (The Help) Kathryn Stockett comedy. on YouTube, as can several right after the end of the mounts for Inspector (Jacqueline Chambon) other films by the brothers war, with the support of Grazziani (Yves Montand) Deux Heures à Tuer (Two Hours to Kill) Ivan Govar, Rien ne s’Oppose à la Nuit Lumière, widely considered Resistance members, it is to find the murderer. Based Delphine de Vigan (JC Lattès) the inventors of cinema. one of the most honest and 1966. Thriller. on the acclaimed novel by L’Art Français de la Guerre realistic war films ever made Sébastien Japrisot (author of Un Soir, Un Train (One Alexis Jenni (Gallimard) TRAIN NOIR and won universal praise L’Été Meurtrier and Un Long Night… a Train) André Dans les Forêts de Sibérie La Bête Humaine Jean when released. Dimanche de Fiançailles, Delvaux, 1968. Drama/ Renoir, 1938 both also adapted into fantasy. Sylvain Tesson (Gallimard) This spellbinding melodrama ALONE ON A TRAIN successful movies), this Le Train (The Last Train), Lettre à Johanna Blanche Marci uses trains as metaphors for Bébert et l’Omnibus (Bebert gripping and mysterious Pierre Granier-Deferre, (Le Tigre Bleu) 1973. Historical drama. working men’s camaraderie, and the Train) Yves Robert, thriller is Costa-Gavras’s CDs: Pop & Rock masculine vitality, jealousy 1963 first movie. J’ai Epousé une Ombre (I Married a Dead Man) Robin 21 Adele (Columbia) and madness. Jacques Returning from a day trip Mylo Xyloto Coldplay Lantier (Jean Gabin) to Paris, the young Bébert Davis, 1983. Thriller. STRANGER ON A TRAIN (Capitol Records) witnesses the murder of (Martin Lartigue, the Notre Histoire (Our Story) Train d’Enfer (He l l Running Still Charlie Winston the railway boss by fellow unforgettable Petit Gibus in , 1984 Train) Roger Hanin, 1985. (PID) train engineer Roubaud Yves Robert’s previous film, The protagonist of this Thriller. (Fernand Ledoux) and La Guerre des Boutons) stays tragicomic and surreal love Train de Vie (Train of Life) The Best of Pink Floyd: A Foot his wife Séverine (Simone at the back of the train while story, Robert (Alain Delon), Radu Mihaileanu, 1998. War in the Door (Capitol Records) Simon). Lantier, in love with his big brother, Tiennot is an alcoholic garage owner comedy. 50 Words for Snow Kate Bush Séverine, stays silent. When (singer Jacques Higelin), who happens to be traveling (ANTI-Records) he embarks on an affair with tries to meet a girl in the by train when an attractive Trailers of most of these films are on www.youtube. DVDs Séverine, she urges him to front. During the journey woman (Nathalie Baye) Harry Potter and the Deathly kill her husband. One of the train is divided, the com enters his compartment and Hallows: Part 2 David Yates Renoir’s masterpieces and brothers are separated and offers to make love to him. Cars 2 John Lasseter, Brad Lewis probably his darkest film, soon Bébert finds himself When she leaves, the lonely For more Film Picks: The Smurfs Raja Gosnell La Bête Humaine, loosely alone in a strange town. Robert decides to follow her, www.francetoday.com The King’s Speech Tom Hooper Find French films in our France Today bookstore: www.francetoday.com/store Pirates of the Caribbean: On Other possible sources: www.amazon.ca, www.amazon.fr, www.facets.org, www.fnac.com Stranger Tides Rob Marshall When you order DVDs or videos from France, you’ll need a multiformat DVD player that can read Zone 2 DVDs or a VCR that can read Secam VHS.

w w w . francetoday . c o m l j a n u a ry 2012 l f r a n c e t o d a y l 23 rencontre

Dujardin and Bérénice Bejo in The Artist

Jeanby Lanie Goodman Dujardinblack-and-white and jazzed up with a lively New York Film Critics Circle awards for musical score. Best Picture and Best Director.) Come the hen actor Jean Dujardin Dujardin had already worked with direc- Academy Award nominations this month, accepted the role of tor in his two hugely the film may become an Oscar contender, George Valentin, a popular spy spoofs, OSS 117: Cairo, Nest of and so might Dujardin. But he’s unwilling big 1920s silent-movie Spies and OSS 117: Lost in Rio, in which he to speculate on how the film’s great success star whose Hollywood plays the bumbling secret agent of the title. might propel his career even further into the career is ruined by the But when Hazanavicius first approached international limelight. arrivalW of the talkies, he knew it would be him about shooting a film with no dialogue, “I’m already living my fantasy,” he says. unlike any other role he’d done before. For he says, he declined the offer at first, then (Modesty is his forte, it would seem from one thing, the film itself, The Artist, was quickly changed his mind. previous interviews.) “Imagine being asked a silent movie. Second, without dialogue, “Everything I’ve chosen to do—from my to shoot a film in the US, in Los Angeles, he had to rely heavily on his debonair, early TV comic sketches to now—seems to inside the Warner Brothers studio…. It sometimes predatory smile to build his have one thing in common,” he says. “C’est already went beyond my wildest hopes. Sure character. The ultimate challenge was a le plaisir. It’s taking pleasure in what I’m I like to dream, but I’m also pragmatic.” strenuous five-month workout learning to doing. I want to feel that I’m going to have How does he explain the film’s obviously tap dance à la Gene Kelly. And moreover it fun. After all, that’s what I’m being asked universal appeal? “It’s the genre itself,” he was the first time he had ever co-starred with to do—amuse people. I don’t want to make says. “The silent era, the black-and-white, an animal—, the loyal little fox terrier films just to make films!” the swinging music and the love story… it who follows him everywhere in the film. all adds up to a certain nostalgia for that

On the up side, the actor says, he was Living a fantasy period. People like to remember that time. 2011 Bunch © Wild Photo spared the task of working on his English His performance in The Artist won the Today you have the impression that ev- with a dialogue coach, since his thick French Palme d’Or for Best Actor at the Cannes erything rushes by too quickly. Back then accent isn’t likely to disappear that easily. Festival last May, and has since been show- it seems as if there were fewer problems But The Artist is (give or take a few surprise ered with unanimous praise worldwide. and more time to enjoy life. That’s the feel- effects) completely silent, shot in glorious (In November, the movie also won the ing I had had when I visited all the 1920s

24 l f r a n c e t o d a y l j a n u a ry 2012 l w w w . francetoday . c o m

f youFGHHFJFGH- KFFJGhave to memorize the dictionary to learn the French language, think again. Learning French should be fun. No matter the goal you set for yourself, we want to make sure you enjoy the ride. IIn this guide, you’ll find several options for learni OSS 117: Cairo, Nest of Spies

his fans swoon, but also catches the fancy “second-degree” humor and relentless mim- of a pretty girl—and aspiring actress—in icking of his teachers was revealed early on. a Hollywood preview crowd, Peppy Miller “I wasn’t turbulent in class,” the actor says, (superbly played by Bérénice Bejo, in real “but I was clearly better at imitating than life the wife of director Hazanavicius). But studying.” He started honing his comedy as Peppy swiftly rises from a perky extra to skills while doing his military service, and the toast of Hollywood, Valentin sinks into continued with a band of young comics in an abyss when the talkies arrive and he stub- cabarets and small theaters in Paris, which bornly tries to produce another silent film in turn led to TV talent shows and a long himself, descending headlong into finan- series of brief TV comedy sketches with cial ruin and the final disintegration of his called Un Gars, Une Fille. unhappy marriage. His first big film break, Brice de Nice, was Dujardin says that one of his favorite based on one of his stand-up routines. moments in the film is when Valentin, washed up, with a film nobody wants to Pure pleasure see, finds himself in front of a pawn shop For the moment, Dujardin plans to concen- window and steps into the reflection of a trate his career in France, and dodges the tuxedo on display—a sad vestige of his question about whether or not he’d be inter-

Lucky Luke former glamour. ested in playing a role in an English-speaking Echoes of Charlie Chaplin? Undoubtedly. film. “I’m French and I like working with “Chaplin was a genius,” says Dujardin. “He French actors,” he declares a trifle defen- knew how to make the bridge from silent sively. “I don’t think I interest Americans movies to talkies. He was hugely creative.” all that much… I mean, it’s not like they’re waiting for me or anything like that.” Surf’s up But he’s positively ebullient when de- Despite Dujardin’s currently soaring scribing his next film, Les Infidèles, co-writ- career, some French audiences still associ- ten with , which deals with ate him primarily with the zany adolescent male infidelity, inspired by Dino Risi’s 1963 humor of the wildly popular Brice de Nice Les Monstres. Divided into six 15-minute Dujardin and Bérénice Bejo (2005) in which he played a caricature of shorts by six different directors (including in The Artist the Southern California surfer with sun- Hazanavicius and Kounen), Dujardin de- bleached hair, whose eternal quest for the scribes it as “a kind of measured delirium”. monuments in LA—the downtown theaters, perfect wave—off the calmly lapping shores After that, he will be teaming up with Mary Pickford’s house—you can imagine of the Mediterranean—angles right off into actress Cécile de France to shoot Mobius, a how much pleasure there must have been, the giddily ridiculous. spy drama about a powerful money laun- living in that time.” Similarly, in 99 Francs (2007, directed derer, directed by Eric Rochant. by ) and Lucky Luke (2009, But right now all the big buzz is about That certain smile directed by ), based on a pop- The Artist. Does the actor miss George To prepare the role of Valentin, a vain mati- ular French comic strip about a fearless Valentin? Was it difficult to remove himself nee idol with a pencil-thin mustache and cowboy, Dujardin has enjoyed a popular from the glam charisma of the Hollywood smoldering eyes (think success that goes hand in hand with his era? “It’s never difficult to leave a part,” he meets Rudolf Valentino with a bit of Errol mile-a-minute colloquial delivery and his says without hesitation. “All I had to do Flynn’s panache), Dujardin says he watched jokey off-screen personality. He shared was shave my mustache and that was that! countless black-and-white movie classics by screenwriting credit on Lucky Luke; worked Of course, there’s always a part of him that early directors from F.W. Murnau (“I loved with directors including Bertrand Blier (Le will stay inside of me.” He pauses, for the Sunrise!”) to Frank Borzage. But mostly, he Bruit des Glaçons), (Un Balcon first time in the conversation. “You know,” adds, mugging it up for the camera came sur la Mer) and (Les Petits he says, “everyone is always asking me from knowing the script inside and out. Mouchoirs, in the US Little White Lies); and about all the extreme difficulties of play- “Generally, I re-read a script about 50 is often cited for his versatility. ing such a role—when actually it’s just a times before the shoot,” he admits with a What triggered his desire to become question of pleasure.” Not surprisingly, the grin. “I don’t know why—maybe to reassure an actor? “Timidity, I guess,” he says only two words the actor utters, in the final myself—but I think it’s a way to ask myself with a smile. “Like many actors, I had the moment of The Artist are “with pleasure”— questions about the character. Knowing the desire to hide behind roles and use them to in English, with a Maurice Chevalier-like entire script by heart helps me figure out mask my own personality. And thanks to accent. And pleasure surely sums up what what kind of smile I’ll want to use, or gen- your roles, you exist a bit more—you actu- Dujardin is wholeheartedly giving his erally how to modulate the way I’m playing ally become more yourself by playing other audiences at the moment. n the character at any particular moment.” p e op l e .”

OSS 117 © Gaumont;OSS 117 Lucky Luke © Christine Tamalet © 2009 UGC YM-UGC Images-France 2 Cinéma-France 3 Cinéma His character in The Artist not only makes As a schoolboy, he says, his penchant for For more Rencontres: www.francetoday.com

w w w . francetoday . c o m l j a n u a ry 2012 l f r a n c e t o d a y l 25 G travel2012 study guide he best way to learn almost anything is to jump in and do it, and if possible to have a wonderful time while you’re at it. When it comes to mastering French, there is no way faster and more fun than total immersion in France, surrounded by the language from morning coffee and crois- sants to an after-dinner stroll in Saint Germain des Prés or down the magical Cours Mirabeau Tin Aix-en-Provence. And nowhere better to master the art of French cooking than Paris, or a regional gastronomic bastion like Alsace or Lyon. Whether your passion is wine tasting or watercolor painting, or just the pleasure of perfecting the language while plunging into l’art de vivre in France, the following pages offer a comprehensive look at the many possibilities available throughout the country. For an expanded version of this guide, along with practical information about planning a travel/study trip, see www.francetoday.com

language classes IS Aix-en-Provence IS Aix-en-Provence Installed in a beautiful hôtel particulier, or private mansion, the IS Aix-en-Provence language school has been teaching French as a foreign language since 1972. In addition to French courses taught by a highly quali- fied staff, the school offers a warm, conviv- ial learning environment, a cozy sense of community among students and an array of entertaining cultural experiences. Each year the school welcomes more than a thousand international students with vary- ing levels of French and differing objectives. In addition to general and intensive French courses, IS Aix offers specialized programs for business executives and French teach- ers. Classes are small—never more than ten people—and students have the option of taking additional private lessons to supple- painting workshops, golf, horseback riding food and historic sites.” The institute’s weekly ment regular courses. and even sailing lessons. Morning language excursions include guided walking tours of The institute’s director Anna Diaz stresses courses are followed by afternoon activities Aix with its superb architecture and famous the importance of practical use of the lan- conducted exclusively in French, by French fountains; visits to the Calisson d’Aix fac- guage to reinforce skills newly acquired in professionals in their respective fields, meant tory where the city’s traditional fruit-and- the classroom. “Using French and practic- to put language skills to work, introduce almond-pastry candies are made; and trips ing learned skills are essential to success students to new vocabulary and reinforce to nearby Avignon, a vibrant contemporary and progress,” says Diaz. If practical use French in an interactive situation. city still surrounded by its medieval walls, or Courtesy IS Aix-en-Provence IS Courtesy is combined with a personal passion, she Students of all ages are welcome, but most the perfume capital of Grasse. adds, then retaining newly acquired French participants in IS Aix’s programs are “typi- The institute helps to arrange hous- is even easier. cally between their late forties and sixties,” ing based on student preferences—total With that in mind, the institute has creat- says Diaz. “They lead an active lifestyle and immersion by staying with a local family, ed several language courses combined with want to get an introduction to Provence, or small studio rentals, or larger apartments, Provençal cooking and oenology classes, to explore in more depth its culture, wine, possibly shared with other students. The

26 l f r a n c e t o d a y l j a n u a ry 2012 l w w w . francetoday . c o m [ Apprendre le français à Montpellier ]

Une expérience unique ! Montpellier is the spot to learn French. Immerse yourself in the language and culture of France in the dynamic Mediterranean city of Montpellier. With its top-rated language schools such as Accent Français *, LSF*, IMLS *... and wide range of courses for every level and length of stay, we can help you find the programme most adapted to your needs. Find out more about language stays in Montpellier at : www.ot-montpellier.fr/en/language-stay

* www.accentfrancais.com IMLS NSTITUT I ERRANÉEN www.lsf-france.com MÉDIT S DE LANGUE www.imls.fr ET SERVICES OTM, décembre 2011 © SoxFox, E. Carrau, L’Atelier de Valérie, C. Escolano, C. Mathieu. C. Escolano, de Valérie, L’Atelier E. Carrau, 2011 © SoxFox, décembre OTM, w w w . francetoday . c o m l j a n u a ry 2012 l f r a n c e t o d a y l 27 The Grand Rue Jean Moulin travel study guide in Montpellier, location of the Institut Linguistique Adenet language classes

institute makes every effort to be sure that students are comfortable, says Diaz. “It’s a very important step in getting the confidence to speak, and to dare to make mistakes.” 9 cours des Arts et Métiers, 04.42.93.47.90, www.is-aix.com

Institut Linguistique Adenet - Montpellier There is no better setting for studying French than Montpellier, a lively, student-filled metropolis whose academic traditions date to the 12th century and the founding of the Centre International d’Etudes adapted for language students with dic- University of Montpellier, one of the old- de Langues de Strasbourg tionaries, grammar books and easy-to-read est universities in the world. The capital of As the capital of France’s Alsace region and French books and novels. A cinema club the Languedoc-Roussillon region, only six the seat of the European Parliament and the offers free screenings of French films. miles inland from the Mediterranean coast, Council of Europe, Strasbourg has an inter- Hundreds of students of all levels of pro- Montpellier enjoys a sunny, temperate climate national dimension that goes well beyond ficiency enroll at CIEL every year, taking and an easygoing southern French lifestyle. its strategic location on the Franco-German morning or evening courses that range from Tucked into a pedestrian area behind border. To support the city’s international two- or four-week general programs to year- the city’s central square, the Place de la expansion, and to promote the teach- long training in business and professional Comédie, and its majestic opera house, the ing of French, the Strasbourg Chamber of French. Classes are limited to small groups Institut Linguistique Adenet was founded in Commerce created the Centre International of no more than 12, conducted by master’s- 1998 by Claudia and Stefan Adenet-Kaven. d’Etudes de Langues—the International degree teachers variously specialized in “We are a medium-sized school,” says direc- Center for Language Studies—in 1976. French as a foreign language, phonetics, lan- tor Adenet-Kaven, “big enough to offer all Known by its French acronym, CIEL, guage sciences and French literature. courses at all language levels year round, the adult-education language school is The center assists with finding accom- and small enough to have a very personal located in the training-center complex of modation, from home stays to university atmosphere.” the Chamber of Commerce and Industry, a residence halls, furnished apartments or Courses range from one week to a full 10-minute tram ride from the city center. Its apartment-hotels offering preferential prices nine-month term. General morning courses extensive state-of-the-art facilities include 40 for CIEL students. And when it comes average 15 hours a week, but more ambi- spacious classrooms, a 260-seat auditorium, to free time, Strasbourg is one of France’s tious intensive programs and additional seven computer rooms with more than 100 richest cities, with an architectural gem of private lessons are available. computers, a multimedia area and its own an Old Town center, wonderful museums, “Groups are small, with a maximum of ten cafeteria. a splendid Gothic cathedral, an excellent students per class,” says Adenet-Kaven. “We A separate resource and study center pro- opera house and streets filled with bou- use an interactive teaching method, involving vides a dozen computers with free Internet tiques, luscious pastry shops, beer taverns, CIEL/Strasbourg Courtesy Strasbourg: Adenet; Linguistique Institut Courtesy Montpellier: each student in active class participation.” access and selected language-practice winstubs and restaurants galore. The school also organizes leisure activities programs, a well-stocked newspaper and 234 avenue de Colmar, 03.88.43.08.31, for practicing French outside the classroom, magazine stand, and a library especially www.ciel-strasbourg.org including wine and cheese tastings, tours of Montpellier and excursions to the wet- lands of the Camargue; nearby Nîmes with its Roman amphitheater and the exquisite Roman temple known as the Maison Carrée; and Arles, with its own Roman arena and theater, its fabulous Saturday morning mar- ket and its memories of Vincent Van Gogh, who lived and painted there in 1888. I.L.A. can also arrange housing—home stays with families or studios with kitchen- ettes in student residences within walking distance of the institute. 39 Grand Rue Jean Moulin, Montpellier, 04.67.60.67.83, www.ila-france.com

28 l f r a n c e t o d a y l j a n u a ry 2012 l w w w . francetoday . cCIEL o m - Strasbourg's state-of- the-art resource center Claudine Lencot teaches a small group of eager beginners at her school in Verlaine Langue - Paris Paris, Verlaine Langue Students of all levels are welcome at Verlaine Langue, a small language school in the charming Buttes aux Cailles neighbor- hood in the Paris's 13th arrondissement. Founded in 2002 by Claudine Lencot and Jean Hébert, who both hold advanced degrees in teaching French as a foreign language from the Sorbonne, the school focuses on giving individual attention to each student. Classes are limited to a maxi- mum of six, and are often even smaller. Tamara and Jim Underwood had almost no experience with French when remedial comprehension and speaking to I was understanding a lot more.” After two they moved to Paris with their adolescent being able to communicate more confident- months, Boxer was ready to join Hébert’s twin sons for six months this year, so they ly,” says Tamara, the Underwoods set off on more advanced class. “I thought I’d never quickly searched for a small school to learn a camping trip through the French country- be able to understand him, but I did. He’s some basics, and enrolled for a three-week side, and report that with their new language incredibly entertaining, and very knowl- course at Verlaine Langue. skills they were able to travel on their own edgeable,” she adds. Boxer, in her mid-fifties, They found the two-hour daily classes to with no communication problems. also found the school to be very personal be well structured and tailored to individual Verlaine Langue also offers longer-term and accommodating: “I felt like I was really needs, says Tamara. “Classes followed learn- courses and classes geared to more expe- taken care of. Claudine and Jean were very ing a new language in a very instinctual rienced levels. Francophile Eileen Boxer, a gentle coaches.” After the full four months, way,” she adds, and they appreciated the way designer in New York, had a basic under- she had acquired facility in the language, that all students are expected to contribute standing of French, but decided to take a and more importantly, she says, confidence equally to class discussions. four month sabbatical in Paris to sharpen in herself and her French skills. After only three weeks of morning les- her skills, taking basic and intermediate 18 rue Martin Bernard, Paris 13th, sons at Verlaine Langue, and homework courses taught by Lencot. “Her coaching 01.45.88.05.75, www.verlaine-langue.com in the afternoons, progressing “from very was terrific,” Boxer says. “Within a few days —C.C. Glenn

The SORBONNE FRENCH LANGUAGE and CIVILIZATION COURSES for foreign students throughout the year.

ALL LEVELS

47, rue des Ecoles - 75005 Paris Tel.: 33 1 44 10 77 00 Fax: 33 1 44 07 97 14 [email protected] www.ccfs-sorbonne.fr Photo © Jean Hébert / Verlaine Langue

w w w . francetoday . c o m l j a n u a ry 2012 l f r a n c e t o d a y l 29 travel study guide A class at Le Cordon Bleu

cooking classes Le Cordon Bleu Paris gastronomic excellence, it On a quiet block in the 15th attracted foreigners from the arrondissement, Le Cordon start, and over the years the Bleu Paris is a hive of activ- term Cordon Bleu became ity. White-capped, uniformed international shorthand for an students scurry up and down accomplished, professional- the staircase, some headed to level cook. class, others carrying foil pack- But Le Cordon Bleu also ets of finished dishes they’ve offers a tempting roster of two- concocted. A delicious whiff of hour to four-day demonstra- chocolate comes from the pas- tion or hands-on classes aimed try lab, where intensely focused at the home cook. (All classes students are constructing sculp- are translated into English by a wine expert, involving a vari- What sets Le Cordon Bleu tures of chocolate flowers and in-house interpreters.) One ety of dishes complemented by apart from other schools is the hearts. Some of these interna- of the most instructive—and appropriate wines (59€). Both focus on technique. So if you’d tional students are enrolled in fun—is the Paris Market Tour, two-hour demo classes are fol- like to learn to prepare a blan- one of the three levels—basic, in which a Cordon Bleu chef lowed by tastings with wine. quette de veau or a financier intermediate and superior—of conducts a walking tour of one Discovery Workshops are where Julia Child did, sign up at cuisine or pastry courses that of Paris’s open-air markets, hands-on themed courses Le Cordon Bleu Paris and bring last from two to three months; then brings the class back to the including macarons, petits some French culinary savoir- others are in the full nine- school for a buffet lunch and a fours both sweet and savory, faire home with you. month program to earn the 2-1/2 hour demonstration using seasonal and holiday cooking 8 rue Léon Delhomme, Paris Grand Diplôme in both. the just-purchased market pro- and “Cordon Vert” or vegetar- 15th. 01.53.68.22.50. In 1895, French journal- duce (129€). ian dishes. Longer courses such www.lcbparis.com ist Marthe Distel founded a Other demonstration courses as Classic and Modern Sauces —Vivian Thomas magazine called La Cuisinière include Chef’s Secrets, in which or French Regional Cuisine last Cordon Bleu, and shortly after- a chef prepares and explains sev- from two to four days. And in L’Atelier des Chefs ward opened the school; trad- eral dishes (41€); and Food and addition to the regular list of A fun way to combine lunch ing on the French reputation for Wine Pairing, led by a chef and home chef classes, there are and learning, for those who many daily demonstrations for understand French, is L’Atelier des Chefs’ half-hour lunch ses- TOULOUSE MIDI-PYRENEES 45€; the list is available online quarterly; call to reserve. sion. Energetic young chefs 1300 étudiants, 90 nationalités différentes. Technologie et art de vivre dans le sud de la France ! L'Atelier des Chefs Une conception de l’apprentissage moderne et innovante

♦ Cours de français général ♦ Cours intensifs, extensifs et cours du soir ♦ Cours de spécialité : français des affaires, français commercial, préparation au DELF Cordon Bleu © Le Cordon Bleu International 2011; Atelier © Atelier des Chefs des © Atelier 2011; Atelier International Bleu Cordon © Le Bleu Cordon ♦ Stages d’été

♦ Centre d’examen DELF ♦ Logement dans des familles françaises ♦ Service « Animation » : activités culturelles et sportives

Alliance Française Toulouse Midi-Pyrénées 9 place du Capitole—31000 Toulouse—France

Tel: 0033/(0)5.34.45.26.10.www.alliance - Fax:- 0033/(0)5.34.45.26.11.toulouse.org Email : [email protected] Internet :

30 l f r a n c e t o d a y l j a n u a ry 2012 l w w w . francetoday . c o m A hands-on class at the Paul Bocuse Institute

help students cook a delicious single Paris location, the school meal (among many possibilities: has been so successful that it marinated lamb brochette with now has seventeen sites: seven herbed semolina, duck with car- in Paris, and one each in Lyon, amelized honey/soy sauce and Bordeaux, Aix-en-Provence, polenta). After a perfectly cho- Strasbourg, Nantes, , Lille, reographed—and convivial— Toulouse, London and Dubai. half-hour session of chopping, The relaxed and informal classes sautéeing, stirring and deglaz- are enjoyable hands-on sessions ing, students are shown how to with dynamic, well-trained present the finished products on chefs, ranging from those short the plate in a professional man- lunchtime classes to two-hour ner, then proceed to an adjacent multi-course meals (54€–72€), Institut Paul Bocuse - of the three buildings, the école Lyon dining room to enjoy the fruits and themed classes such as lob- de cuisine, which offers every- of their labor. It’s amazing how ster, macarons, holiday meals Students at the Institut Paul thing from three-year degree much L’Atelier des Chefs can and even cocktails. On a typical Bocuse are first welcomed in the programs for budding profes- accomplish in a half hour. Even day in Paris, 15 or more courses Château du Vivier, an elegant sionals to single-day work- more amazing, the class costs may be offered but it’s still best manor house in Ecully, just shops for amateur gourmands. only 15€, with an optional to book ahead. outside of Lyon. Home to Les The one-day workshops, rang- addition of a glass of wine, Signing up could not be Saisons, the teaching restaurant, ing from Le Foie Gras to Tout cheese, dessert and coffee for simpler: check the website for the château is the centerpiece Chocolat, are aimed at the casual €7. You’d pay the same for a café availability; sign up online of the Institut Bocuse’s three- cook, but they are available only lunch, without the lesson. (no credit card information is building campus in a suburban in French, so reasonable fluency Calling itself the “new genera- requested) and pay on site. A park. Next door is the research is a prerequisite. Serious ama- tion of cooking courses”, l’Atelier few of the teaching chefs speak center, a state-of-the-art labora- teurs de cuisine might consider des Chefs was founded in 2004 some English; to find out, check tory and kitchen for cuisine and the three- or six-week courses, by Nicolas Bergerault, a former the website for the class you want hospitality studies, complete which start with the funda- Nestlé executive and passion- and call the appropriate location with an “experimental” dining mental techniques of French ate cook, and his entrepreneur to ask. www.atelierdeschefs.fr room. But most students will cooking: knife skills, making brother François. Starting with a —V.T. spend their time in the newest stocks, hygiene and kitchen

French Immersion in Canada at Le Centre linguistique du Collège de Jonquière

• Over 40 years of experience Saguenay, Quebec, Canada • Customized training (8 levels) A wonderful region to discover! • Socio-cultural activities • Home-stay families • One of the most French areas in North • All according to your needs America (98%) • An exceptional fjord (one of the largest in www.langues-jonquiere.ca the world) [email protected] • A People renowned for their welcoming 1 800 622-0352 (Canada – US) nature and hospitality 418 542-0352 (international) • Delicious, traditional cuisine • A great destination for outdoor and nature lovers • A changing climate with 4 distinct seasons • Saguenay (145 000 hab.)

Photo © François Fleury Allow us to create the best program for you!

w w w . francetoday . c o m l j a n u a ry 2012 l f r a n c e t o d a y l 31 travel study guide

Susan Herrmann Loomis with her Rue Tatin students

safety. The school’s goal is to teach techniques, six-day courses on Friday afternoon. In not recipes, so that students leave with a solid between, the schedule is packed with hands- base of skills to apply to any recipe. The first on classes in Rue Tatin’s professionally two weeks concentrate on both traditional equipped country kitchen, along with wine and contemporary savory cuisine, followed tastings, visits to local markets, farmers, fish- by a solid week of sweet pâtisserie. The ermen and even potters and other craftsmen. six-week course, which generally attracts A visit to Rouen includes a bistrot lunch and career-changers, then moves on to bread an afternoon free to tour and shop. baking and tastings of cheese, wine and tea. Herrmann Loomis is passionate about The courses can be physically demanding. fresh, locally produced ingredients and, Students are on their feet in the kitchen from as readers of her column know, she’s also 8:30 am to 4 pm, with a one-hour break for poetic as she sings their praises. Depending lunch. The midday meal is included in the on the season, the menus prepared in her program price, and the group, limited to 10 classes might include such treats as end- people, eats together at the school. A set of of-summer tomato tarts, salad with toasted professional knives, chef’s attire and cook- walnut-oil vinaigrette, marinated wood- Learn French with pleasure books are also provided. The three- and six- fire-grilled pork chops, duck breast with at CAVILAM, VICHY, France week courses are available in English once blood-orange sauce, fresh sea scallops with www.cavilam.com - [email protected] or twice a year. green-tea cream, braised romanesco with One, two and three-day workshops, €140- garlic and lemon, and of course the real €480. Three-week course, €3,700; six- apple tarte Tatin. When weather permits, week course, €5,100, accommodation not meals are enjoyed in the garden, facing the included. Château du Vivier, 8 Chemin du 12th-century church. Trouillat, Ecully. 04.72.18.02.20. Paris classes are held in a streamlined www.institutpaulbocuse.com kitchen in Saint Germain des Prés. Morning —Emily Liedel sessions, from 9:30 am to 2 pm, start with a market tour to buy the ingredients for On Rue Tatin dishes that will be shared for lunch; evening Author of nine cookbooks and France sessions, 5:30–9:30 pm, are slightly more Today’s own cooking columnist, Susan formal and include a candlelight dinner. A Herrmann Loomis teaches English-language sample menu might include lentil soup with classes both in Paris and in her lovely, half- scallops and orange-flower lamb with wal- Intensive French courses timbered 15th-century house on rue Tatin nuts and fresh herbs. Courses range from French + gourmet cuisine in Louviers, a small town in Normandy €250–€2,500.

French + balneotherapy not far from Rouen and Monet’s house at 1 rue Tatin, Louviers, 09.64.18.60.39. Loomis Herrmann Susan Courtesy Photo Giverny. Classes are aimed at cooks of every www.onruetatin.com French + golf level. The focus, says Loomis, is on “French —J.F. Vichy, in the heart of France techniques, the finest ingredients, and fun!” In Normandy, students can choose Teen Cooks courses of one, four or six days, and can also Youth must be served, it’s said. But how come for a Country Lunch. Courses begin with much more satisfying if youth itself can a welcome dinner on Sunday evening; four- do the serving—preferably a three-course day courses end on Wednesday afternoon, meal showcasing French cuisine. Thanks to

32 l f r a n c e t o d a y l j a n u a ry 2012 l w w w . francetoday . c o m Teen Cooks at work

an inspired cooking school for courses usually run from Sunday teenagers, that’s now possible. to Saturday. Boarding at the So while parents are enjoying house, students prepare a three- Paris or the Loire, teenagers course meal each day, hands- can be learning the secret of on, with ingredients they buy at a good béchamel or a perfect local markets, including seafood profiterole under the guid- fresh off the boats of La Rochelle. ance of Midge Shirley, who Marketing and other outings runs Teen Cooks for 15- to also offer an opportunity for stu- 18-year-olds in her gracious dents to practice their French, country home in the Charente although the language is not a Maritime region, about 40 requirement for the course. miles inland from La Rochelle Teen cooks don’t spend all on the Atlantic coast. their time in the kitchen, of A former Eurocrat who course. There’s a swimming quit the corridors of power pool, a well-stocked library in Brussels to indulge her of books, music and movies, culinary bent, Shirley has written and visits are scheduled in the gastronomy columns and cook- local area. Courses are lim- books, but what she really likes ited to five students at a time. to do is share her cooking skills Aprons, towels, pool towels with young people starting out and hair dryers are provid- on life’s gustatory journey. “I try ed. The £475 fee (or dollar/ to awaken a passion for food,” she euro equivalent) covers food, says, “and cooking well is a skill accommodation, excursions that will never let you down.” and airport transfers. ISEFE - Université de Savoie Now into her fourth sea- 129 route de la Vaillette, Saint- Domaine Universitaire de Jacob-Bellecombette B.P. 1104 -73011 Chambéry Cedex-France son, Shirley has welcomed Pierre-de-l’Isle, 05.46.24.65.09. Tél. 00 33 (0)4 79 75 84 14 teens from around the world, [email protected], although Americans and British www.teencooks.co.uk

Photo © Felix Trench predominate. The one-week —Chris Redman

w w w . francetoday . c o m l j a n u a ry 2012 l f r a n c e t o d a y l 33 H travel study guide School listings

01- Paris Accord école de Langues €300 for 26 lessons/week for 1-4 weeks; €280 for 5-8 weeks. Op- Find the perfect program with our Paris ✆ 01.55.33.52.33 tions include intensive classes, one-on-one instruction, summer comprehensive listing of programs. www.french-paris.com program for families, programs for seniors and business French. Language programs have been Alliance Française Paris €180 to €238/wk for 20 hrs. Options include intensive, evening, Paris ✆ 01.42.84.90.00 private (hourly fee) and thematic classes including Art de Vivre organized by region, and cooking www.alliancefr.org à la Française, Vivre à Paris and business French. and art schools are organized by Cours de Civilisation Française de La Sorbonne Check website for class options and prices. Courses coincide Paris ✆ 01.44.10.77.00 with academic calendar. Registration online available. category. Consult our key to make www.fle.fr/sorbonne sure you choose a school that meets École France Langue €230 for 20 lessons + €30 enrollment fee. Cooking class avail- your needs. Check out the schools’ Paris ✆ 01.45.00.40.15 able. Internship possibilities. Specific programs for 50+. Addi- www.france-langue.fr/en tional campus in Nice. websites to learn more about all École de Langue Française pour Étrangers (ELFE) €400/wk for 15 hrs; €790/wk for 30 hrs. Extra cultural excur- they have to offer. Paris ✆ 01.48.78.73.00 sions available for a fee. New special language courses for Au www.elfe-paris.com Pairs. Housing €230/wk and up. École Lutece Langue €224/wk for 15 hrs; €128.5/wk for 7.5 hrs; €61/wk for 3 hrs. Paris ✆ 01.42.36.31.51 Classes range from private lessons to French cuisine, à la carte Key www.lutece-langue.com lessons. Online registration available. Institut Catholique de Paris Check website for class options and prices. Options include civi- Setting Requirements Paris ✆ 01.44.39.52.68 lization courses, university preparation, teacher’s training and

Urban Some French needed www.icp.fr/ilcf summer programs. Institut Parisien €248 for 15 hrs/wk; €409 for 25 hrs/wk. Prices decrease based on dura- Countryside Fluency required Paris ✆ 01.42.66.18.08 tion of stay. Courses in conversation, phonetics, expression and written www.institut-parisien.com expression. Special program for Au Pairs. Homestays available. Online Specific start date and length Live and Learn $1525/wk for 15 hrs; $1700/wk for 20 hrs. All classes are im- Attendees Paris ✆ 763.374.2444 mersion, with one to two students per class. Room and board Available/Included www.liveandlearnlanguages.com included (homestay). Adults Verlaine Langue €240 for 2 wks; €315 for 3 wks; €395 for 4 wks; 2 hrs/day. Hous- Certificate preparation Paris ✆ 01.45.88.05.75 ing suggestions provided. Maximum of 6 people per class. Adults &Teens www.verlaine-langue.com No housing Teens Leisure activities Children 02 - northwest Centre International d’étude des Langues (CIEL) €160 to €295/wk 20 for hrs + material fees. DEFL certification All ages Brest ✆ 02.98.30.45.75 available. School accredited by the University of New

College level www.ciel.fr Hampshire. Centre Linguistique pour étrangers €790 for 2 wks of 20 hrs/wk. Combination of professional French and Tours ✆ 02.47.64.06.19 cultural classes, intensive classes and classes for two people available. www.cle.fr Homestays available, as well as furnished studios for longer stays. CŒur de France école de Langues €435 for one week of 25 lessons. Family and couple's classes Sancerre ✆ 02.48.79.34.08 available. Cultural excursions available. www.coeurdefrance.com écolangues First wk €600, then €540/wk for 25 hrs. Housing included, Angers ✆ 02.41.25.73.73 homestays available. One-on-one and duo courses available www.ecolangues.com in General & Business French. Français à la Carte Consult website for course offerings and prices. Grammar, Tours ✆ 02.47.96.42.18 business French and test prep courses offered. www.lessonsinfrench.com French in Normandy €199 for 15 hrs/week; €310 for 25 hrs/wk. Cooking course Le Petit Quevilly ✆ 02.35.72.08.63 and tourist activities available. Half & full board and airport www.frenchinnormandy.com transfers available. Immersion France £730/wk. Courses available June through Sept only; Suèvres ✆ 02.54.87.86.02 accommodation, meals and full board included. France is divided into five geographical areas, www.immersionfrance.co.uk each with its own area code. For calls within Le Français Face à Face €1800/wk. One-on-one intensive classes for professionals. France, area codes use two digits: 01, 02, 03, Angers ✆ 06.66.60.00.63 Lodging à la carte. 04 and 05. When calling from the United www.lefrancaisfaceaface.com States, dial 011 for international and 33 for Le Poyenval €1195/wk all-inclusive; €130 for day course. School and France, then delete the zero in the French Bazoges-en-Pareds ✆ 02.51.51.26.85 housing in a castle. Other classes offered: art, photography area code. For example, if the telephone num- www.lepoyenval.com and wine tasting. ber shown in the listings is 01.55.12.13.14, to call from outside France you will dial 03 - NORTHEAST 011.33.1.55.12.13.14. Centre International d’études Françaises €475 for 2 wks; €685 for 4 wks; €1140 for 8 wks; €1365/ Dijon ✆ 03.80.39.35.60 semester. Offered by l’Université de Bourgogne. Prices vary

GENERAL SEARCH INFORMATION www.u-bourgogne.fr/CIEF from summer to winter sessions. Cooking classes offered. CampusFrance CIEF de l’Université de Reims €800/semester. €320 - €400 for 3 wks. 3-week summer courses : Website portal for Reims ✆ 03.26.47.04.11 available. Half-time enrollment available. Housing available. studying in French universities. Guides to www.univ-reims.fr choosing schools, applying and living. Visit Centre International d’Etudes de Langues (CIEL) From €400 for 2 wks (15 to 20 hrs per wk). Classes start every website or call for prices. Strasbourg ✆ 03.88.43.08.31 two weeks year-round. Private classes to work on your own Tel: 1. 202.944.6294, www.usa.campusfrance.org/ www.ciel-strasbourg.org objectives and workshops available. Evening courses offered.

34 l f r a n c e t o d a y l j a n u a ry 2012 l w w w . francetoday . c o m School listings

Corcelle €2275 for one wk, €710 for accomodation. Intensive 50-hr wk Sigy-le-Châtel ✆ 03.85.59.49.49 for highly motivated professionals. All meals are taken with a www.corcelle.com teacher. Housing on site. CIEL de French Immersion in Champagne . See website for prices. Stay in a country home while learning CIEL de [email protected] French. Activities available. Oenology, champagne and cheese www.french-immersion-champagne.fr tastings. STRASBOURGSTRASBOURG Inlingua French Lessons Call for prices. Locations all over the world. Eight locations in Strasbourg ✆ 03.88.10.27.27 the region. Can also arrange for younger teens/kids to sign up. Apprenez le www.inlingua-mbr.com français au coeur Institut Catholique Lille Clarife €268 for 20 hrs. Summer courses, test prep, homestay avail- Lille ✆ 03.20.57.92.19 able. Evening courses offered. de l’Europe !

clarife.univ-catholille.fr ✗ Un centre de formation 30 années 04 - SOUTHEAST moderne et convivial d’expérience... Accent Français See website for prices. Offers medical and business French, French and ✗ + Une rentrée Montpellier ✆ 04.67.58.12.68 cooking, French and wine, French for teachers and courses for those En français toutes les 2 semaines ! langue générale, www.accentfrancais.com over 50. Activities include cultural excursions. Homestays available. + Des programmes sur Français des mesure à la demande ! Alliance Française Marseille-Provence €660 for 4 wks in July/August. Classes year-round. French for affaires ou des + Des formateurs Marseille ✆ 04.96.10.24.60 Au Pairs offered. Water sports classes available during summer professions : www.afmarseille.org expérimentés et sessions. Housing available nearby. des formules de disponibles ! cours souples Alliance Française de Grenoble €198 for 20 hrs; €540 for 60 hrs. Private courses available. Con- Grenoble ✆ 04.76.56.25.84 versation circles and cooking sessions available. Business and et variées ! www.alliancefr-grenoble.org scientific French courses offered. Altiplano Training €1450-€1500/wk depending on course. Intensive French courses in Chamonix, Mens ✆ 04.76.34.25.15 Chamonix as well as immersion courses in Mens. One-on-one instruc- www.altiplanotraining.com tion, housing included. Cooking courses available. Courses offered year round. Family French courses offered during the summer. Cavilam €286/wk for 20 hrs + €58 registration. Classes start every Monday Vichy ✆ 04.70.30.83.83 except for beginners, which start on specific dates. Language and www.cavilam.com sports, gastronomy or hydrotherapy offered. Centre Universitaire d’Études See website for prices. Language, culture and cooking courses. Françaises de Grenoble (CUEF) Short and long duration. ✆ Grenoble 04.76.82.43.70 www.u-grenoble3.fr/cuef www.ciel-strasbourg.org Ceran Lingua From €2475. Intensive residential program in complete immer- Morières-lès-Avignon ✆ 04.90.02.05.00 sion. Classes in small groups of 4 and/or private lessons. Meals www.ceran.com/us and evenings with the instructors. Crea-Langues €917/wk plus housing. Open April to Sept only. Extra activities such Moustiers-Ste-Marie ✆ +32.51.31.97.42 as hiking and attending the Avignon festival. Youth holidays involv- www.crealangues.com . ing water sports, horseback riding. Separate youth location. Eurolingua Institute Check website for class options and prices. Long and short term Montpellier [email protected] programs, French language and lifestyle course available. www.eurolingua.com The French Traveler From $2850.12-day workshop for teachers of French in Bor- Montpellier ✆ 800.251.3464 deaux; Art tour in Saint Paul de Vence; and an 8-day tour of www.frenchtraveler.com Provence combined with language courses. Ici Langue €580/wk with housing. €275 course only. Small group classes Nice ✆ 04.93.16.94.17 and private lessons. www.icilangue.com Institut César €395/wk for 15 hrs. Special courses on wine, terroir and discov- Montpellier ✆ 04.67.63.43.69 ering the area are available. Max 6 people per class. Individual www.institutcesar.com courses available. French for Companies offered. Institut Européen de Français Courses start at €225/wk for 22 lessons plus housing. Courses Montpellier ✆ 04.67.91.70.00 offered in general French, business French and French for teachers.

www.institut-europeen.com French courses combined with an internship also available. Eat in a new culture. Institut de Français €2700 for 4 wks from Dec to April; €3300 for 4 wks from May Villefranche-sur-Mer ✆ 04.93.01.88.44 to Nov. Two - or four-week immersion programs offered. Break- in a new language. www.institutdefrancais.com fast, lunch and accommodation included in price. Swim Institut Français des Alpes €225/wk for 20 hrs plus housing. Programs for one week, one Annecy ✆ 04.50.45.38.37 month or a trimester. A second location in Chambéry. French www.ifalpes.fr courses plus skiing or art history classes offered. Play and learn Institut de Langue Française de Uzès € 39.80/hr for private lessons. Price decreases as hours increase. Uzès ✆ 04.66.22.74.08 One-on-one instruction in French language, art and history. at a Minnesota summer camp! www.uzes-french-school.com Summer courses and couple’s courses available. Institut International de Langue €625 for 2 wks. Several courses available (group or private) for short Register now for French Aix-en-Provence ✆ 04.42.93.47.90 and long term and in all levels of French. Language courses combined www.is-aix.com with golf, wine, painting, sailing or horseback riding classes offered. language programs! Institut Linguistique Adenet Courses start at €225/wk for 20 hrs plus housing. Options include Montpellier ✆ 04.67.60.67.83 French courses for all levels to intensive courses. Short and long- Scholarships available. For more information visit www.ila-france.com term courses offered in groups and/or private sessions. School will ConcordiaLanguageVillages.org/scholarships. help students find housing. www.FrenchLanguageVillage.org

w w w . francetoday . c o m l j a n u a ry 2012 l f r a n c e t o d a y l 35 travel study guide School listings

Institut Savoisien d’études françaises Trimesters start at €990; 3-, 4- and 7-week summer courses be- pour étrangers (ISEFE) gin at €390. French language and culture courses year round. Chambéry ✆ 04.79.75.84.14 www.isefe.fr

Millefeuille Provence Programs start at €1730/wk and include room and board. Im- Saint-Geniès-de-Comolas ✆ 04.66.50.22.05 merse yourself in French in Provence and stay in a chateau. www.millefeuille-provence.com

05 - SOUTHWEST Alliance Française de Toulouse €150 for 4 weeks (4 hrs/wk); €460 for 4 weeks (16 hrs/wk). Toulouse ✆ 05.34.45.26.10 General courses and evening courses offered year round. Sum- www.alliance-toulouse.org mer classes also available. Homestays available. Association Roussilangues €210/wk for 15 hrs. Conversation circles and wine tastings Perpignan ✆ 06.76.22.49.50 included. Weekend sessions available. Start dates throughout www.roussilangues.com the year. BLS École de Français €490 to €540 for 2 wks at 20 lessons/wk. Classes also offered Bordeaux ✆ 05.57.34.46.29 in Biarritz. Senior programs and combo courses available: www.bls-frenchcourses.com French and surf, French and golf and French and wine. CAREL From €275/wk. Immersion program offered. Sports available. Royan ✆ 05.46.39.50.00 Programs for teens, professors and test prep. www.carel.org Centre de Français Langue Etrangère €800/session (220 to 250 hrs). Offered by Université de Poitiers ✆ 05.49.45.32.94 Poitiers. Adults 18 and up. Internship available in September cfle.univ-poitiers.fr for non-beginners. L’Age Baston Check website for prices. Special early booking rates available. La Rochefoucauld ✆ +44.208.858.7705 Stay in a chateau and learn French. Nature walks, cooking, www.lagebaston.com painting and creative writing classes available. Langue Onze Toulouse €390 for 2 wks (46 lessons) plus €60 registration fee. Intensive Toulouse ✆ 05.61.62.54.58 French, specialized courses for law, business and technical www.langue-onze.asso.fr applications. Valorme €530 per wk plus accommodation. Immersion program in a Foix ✆ 05.61.03.89.46 medieval town near Toulouse and the Pyrénées. French and site visits, www.valorme.com French and skiing also available. Comfortable accommodation on site.

Art schools CREAL_ADV_NYMAG_12092010:63L x 122H 09-12-20 A French Village Watercolor Workshop €350/wk. Lunch included. Watercolor and sketching workshops Rignac ✆ 05.65.33.69.40 offered. Instructor helps students find housing. Instruction in www.catherinestock.com French and English. LEARN FRENCH Atelier St. Fargeau See website for prices. Courses in sculpture, pastels and paints Paris ✆ 01.43.61.11.21 with local artists. Children's workshops available. IN THE HEART OF PROVENCE www.ateliersaintfargeau.com La Bonne étoile See website for prices. Stay in a renovated farmhouse and Fontaine-Fourches ✆ 01.60.58.90.27 attend workshops given by artists with various specialties. www.labonneetoile.com French and English. Jean-Pierre Baquère Call for prices and appointments. A glassblower recognized by Colombes ✆ 01.47.86.09.49 the French Ministry of Culture offers classes to professionals www.idverre.net/baquere and the general public in his atelier near Paris. Latitude Cultural Center Check website for prices. A variety of week-long courses in La Toulzanie ✆ 510.525.8436 painting and textiles. Evening conferences. Total immersion in French language and culture www.latitude.org Phil Levine Workshops, Inc. $2950 for one person. Discount for 2 people. 8 days of waterco- Intensive residential courses in the unique setting Aix-en-Provence ✆ 212.414.8875 lor painting in Provence. In English. of an ancient monastery tucked away in the www.paintingfrance.com/juliecohn.htm ‘Parc Régional du Verdon’. Yann Marot €120/day; €560/wk. A nationally recognized woodworker Small groups. Motivated international public. Azerables ✆ 05.55.63.02.14 offers courses to professionals and the general public. Varied activities to discover the area. www.yannmarot.com Warm hospitality and gourmet cuisine. April - September, 1 or 2 week courses cooking and wine schools Special programmes for French teachers, expats and groups L'Atelier des Chefs Half-hour lunch courses from €15; 2-hour multi-course meals and Paris and other cities longer themed classes; see website for prices. Other locations in Adventurous language holidays for teens www.atelierdeschefs.fr Lyon, Bordeaux, Aix-en-Provence, Lille, Strasbourg, Toulouse, Nan- in Gréoux-les-Bains tes and Dijon. Sign up online. Label gouvernemental «Qualité Français langue étrangère» Bastide des Saveurs Call for prices. Provençal cooking and wine tasting workshops Membre de "Souffle", association professionnelle ✆ des écoles de français. La Cadière d’Azur 04.94.90.11.43 with René Bérard. English translations for courses and recipes. www.hotel-berard.com CREA-LANGUES Le Cordon Bleu Paris In addition to professional courses, a whole roster of demonstra- ✆ 01.53.68.22.50. tion and hands-on courses for home cooks, from €41 for a 2-hour Le monastère de Ségriès www.lcbparis.com demonstration to courses lasting several days. See website for 04360 Moustiers-Ste-Marie (33)492 77 74 58 schedule and prices. [email protected] www.crealangues.com Cuisine Corsaire €104 to €360. A cooking school for amateurs and professionals Cancale ✆ 02.99.89.63.86 alike focusing on seafood and fresh produce. English transla- 36 l f r a n c e t o d a y l j a n u a ry 2012 l w w w . francetodaywww.cuisine-corsaire.fr. c o m tion available if requested at time of reservation. Annonce Valorme 10-07-3.pdf 9/11/07 14:06:17 School listings

École de Cuisine Alain Ducasse Check website for class options and prices. Learn from the mas- Paris ✆ 01.44.90.91.00 ter. Courses for beginners, oenology or "La haute cuisine d'Alain www.écolecuisine-alainducasse.com Ducasse." Classes fill quickly!

École Ritz Escoffier See website for prices. One-day courses covering a variety Paris ✆ 01.43.16.30.50 of themes at the famed Ritz hotel. English interpretation www.ritzparis.com available. VALORME École du Vin de Bordeaux Check website for class options and prices. Practical and techni- In Foix between Toulouse, Bordeaux ✆ 05.56.00.22.85 cal wine courses from two days to one week. English courses in www.bordeaux.com/Ecole-Du-Vin May and October. Carcassonne and the Pyrénées Gastronomicom Check website for class options and prices. 1 and 3 month pro- Learn French in the heart Cap d’Agde ✆ 06.71.72.28.13 grams combining intensive French language and culinary train- www.gastronomicom.fr ing . Accommodation in cottages for 4 people; leisure activities. C of a small medieval town France à la Carte Small group, emphasis See website for prices. 3- to 8-day hands-on courses with M Toulouse ✆ 05.61.12.07.94 professional chefs in châteaux and hotels around France. Courses on communication, www.francealacarte.com for individuals and mini groups. Program in English; bilingual staff. J relaxed atmosphere Institut Paul Bocuse Single-day workshops for amateur gourmands to three-year degree pro- CM Lyon ✆ 04.72.18.02.20. grams for budding professionals. Short workshops, €140–€480; longer Discover a wonderful area

www.institutpaulbocuse.com courses up to €5,100. MJ Magnificent mountain Ô Chateau Classes start at €30. Wine and champagne tastings in Paris plus landscapes, famous Paris ✆ 01.44.73.97.80 trips to the Champagne region. In English. CJ prehistoric caves, www.o-chateau.com CMJ amazing cathar castles… On Rue Tatin See website for prices. Small specialty cooking classes. Various Louviers ✆ 09.51.14.38.94 1-5 day courses.Very popular mother-daughter class. In English N Stay on the spot www.onruetatin.com and French. in comfortable flats. Promenades Gourmandes €280 for half-day class. Market tour followed by a hands on cook- Spectacular view Paris ✆ 01.48.04.56.84 ing class, preparing a full seasonal menu adapted to students' www.promenadesgourmandes.com tastes, comprehensive cheese tasting, lunch, wine. In English. of Foix castle ! Teen Cooks Classes in English for teenagers from 15 to 18, no French required.

Saint-Pierre-de-l’Isle ✆ 05.46.24.65.09. One-week course includes meals, accommodation, excursions and www.teencooks.co.uk airport transfers, £475. Courses limited to five students. Corine Rouleau - Valorme 9, rue des chapeliers 09000 FOIX PROGRAMS BASED IN NORTH AMERICA Tel / Fax : +33 (0) 5 61 03 89 46 [email protected] - www.valorme.com FEDERATION ALLIANCES FRANÇAISES See website for locations and prices. French classes offered Various locations ✆ 312.431.1880 across the United States with the Alliance Française network. www.afusa.org Canoe Island Camp See website for prices. Fencing, archery, sailing, kayaking, Camp Orcas, WA ✆ 360.468.2329 photography, art, theater, swimming, marine biology, family www.canoeisland.org camp. Centre Linguistique du Collège de Jonquière $2,100 (CAD) for 3 wks. French immersion programs for adults Québec, Canada ✆ 800.622.0352 and teens in Quebec. 3-wk, 5-wk, 15-wk and semester sessions www.langues-jonquiere.ca offered. Day and evening group courses also available. Concordia Language Villages See website for program list and prices. Day camps and resi- Moorhead, Minnesota ✆ 800.222.4750 dential camps in Northern Minnesota for young people, fami- www.concordialanguagevillages.org lies and adults in 15 languages.

BILINGUAL SChOOLS French-American School of New York $21,400 - $24,720/yr. Preschool through high school bilingual New York, NY ✆ 914.250.0400 day school. French Baccalaureate. www.fasny.org

French-American School of Puget Sound Preschool through fifth grade: $15,200. Middle school: Mercer Island, WA ✆ 206.275.3533 $18,100. Strong academic program in French and English. www.fasps.org Financial aid available. International School of Boston $19,550 - $25,420/yr. French immersion in preschool and kin- ECOLE INTERNATIONALE Cambridge, MA ✆ 617.499.1459 dergarten, bilingual program throughout high school. www.isbos.org DE LA PÉNINSULE International School of the Peninsula Nursery through 5th grade: $20,900. 6th through 8th grade: PALO ALTO, CA Palo Alto, CA ✆ 650.251.8500 $22,800. Bilingual immersion nursery school – 8th grade. www.istp.org • Au service de la communauté française depuis 30 ans Lycée Français La Pérouse Preschool through fifth grade: $17,580, Middle School: San Francisco, CA ✆ 415.661.5232 $18,650, High School: $23,080 French immersion preschool • Homologuée par le Ministère de l’Education Nationale www.lelycee.org through high school. College prep, French Baccalaureate. • Au cœur de la Silicon Valley • Un cursus scolaire bilingue ambitieux et rigoureux Lycée International Franco-Américain (LIFA) . $21,430 - $31,270/yr. Elementary through high school levels. San Francisco, CA ✆ 415.558.2000 Baccalaureate tracks. • Un environnement plurilingue et pluriculturel stimulant

www.frenchamericansf.org • Des élèves autonomes et responsables

Lycée International of Los Angeles $10,350 - $14,400/year. Preschool through high school with Los Angeles, CA ✆ 818.994.2961 four campuses. Financial aid available. Discount for multiple (650) 251-8504 www.lilaschool.com child enrollment. www.istp.org San Diego French-American School Pre-kindergarten: $13,650. Kindergarten through fifth grade: La Jolla, CA ✆ 858.456.2807 $13,000. Middle School: $14,325. Preschool through 8th www.efsd.org grade. w w w . francetoday . c o m l j a n u a ry 2012 l f r a n c e t o d a y l 37

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for rent / Paris Stone Cottage in Brittany, classes FRENCH PRODUCTS France Historic 2-bedroom sleeps 5. Phone: 207-752-0285 VALORME Web: www.tybeleug.com Small residential school in Foix, medi- eval town, Southwest France. DAZZLING DELIGHTS FROM FRANCE! SPACIOUS FARMHOUSE NEAR Classes, visits, hiking. Tea towels, pottery, bath products, BORDEAUX Contact: Corine Rouleau gourmet treats, and—enfin!—chil- Pool. Vineyards. Phone: 603-924-9535 Web: www.valorme.com dren’s toys! Luxury Paris Apartments by www.charente-maritime-home.com All these and more at QuelObjet.com Adrian Leeds EUROLINGUA ONE-TO-ONE Contact: Susan Sears Central locations, Well-Equipped, Free LANGUAGE HOMESTAYS Phone: [email protected] Phone, WiFi, TV. Book Now. real estate / for sale Dutch, English, French, German, Web: www.quelobjet.com Contact: John or Adrian Italian, Portuguese, Russian, Spanish, Phone: (310) 427 7589 Southeast France Easy and Ukrainian. 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Longer Enjoy our regional self drive tours : with Louise, not only for the extreme Phone: 973-816-3073 term negotiable. you plan your days as you want on quality of her work, but also for her Email: [email protected] Contact: [email protected] an established itinerary to get sure qualities as a person." to visit the best sightseeing of France - Laurent Key, Vice President NY - JEUNE NANNY FRANCAISE PARIS ISLANDS AND LEFT BANK and sleep in the most charming and Societe Generale Corporate and Jeune fille francaise experimentée Exclusive large studios, apartments genuine accommodation...you do the Investment Banking cherche travail de babysitting, bonne to rent for short term in the heart of driving, we’ll do the organizing ! Contact: Louise Egan expérience. Plein/mi-temps. Paris.Prices all included. Contact: Julien Lalande [email protected] Contact: Amelie Contact: Maurice GODET Phone: +33 662 110 911 Web: www.louiseegan.com Phone: 413-459-1896 Phone: +33143290323 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Web: www.francetriptailor.com Web: www.servissimo-paris.com general interest Personalized Paris VACATION RENTALS & INNS Photography Walks Discover the REAL Paris (including ten www.unionfrancaise.org 214 années de Fraternité AIX EN PROVENCE proven tips for remarkable photos). Cours Mirabeau, heart of town. 2 bed- Email: [email protected] rooms. Perfect for exploring Provence. www.meredithmullins.artspan.com THE BABYSITTER OR SENIOR $1350/week Phone: (941) 544 – 6777 CAREGIVER LOG Luxury Canal and River Barge is a better way to know your children NICE/COTE D'AZUR/GRASSE Cruises and nanny/babysitter or aging parents Authentic village hill country Riviera, Experience the idyllic waterways of caregiver’s daily activity. near Grasse. Breathtaking views. France. 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To place a classified please visit our website www.francetoday.com, call (212) 221-6700 ext. 100 or email [email protected]. Classifieds run simultaneously in France Today, France-Amérique, www.francetoday.com and www.france-amerique.com for the monthly rate of $3.50/word (10 wwords w w .minimum).francetoday Deadline. c o for m submission:l j a n u a ry 4 2012 weeks l f prior r a n to c e issue t o ddate a y l 39 GA_FranceToday_2012_Layout 1 12/5/11 11:26 AM Page 1

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