Cambridge, Boston, and Beyond

Harvard2 Cambridge, Boston, and beyond

12B Extracurriculars Events on and off campus through the summer

12F Funkin’ It Up New Orleans-style street jazz comes to Cambridge

12H Lives in Art Americana in situ at Cogswell’s Grant

12M Food Fiesta Pupusas, flan, arepas— and more—in East Boston

12L Retreat and Recreate: Peddocks Island Hike, bike, boat, and camp at this Boston Harbor Island 12N Nepal in Pictures An evolution on display at Harvard’s Asia Center Justin Knight/boston Harbor Islands Alliance

Harvard Magazine 12A R R R Harvard Squared ond eosinddo ndes idesid m m men en en t t t m m m i i i a a a a a a l l l H H H

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33 1 33 1 33 1 9 9 1 9 1 1 81 - 20181 -8 210 -1 201 atural H f N useum o arvard M rts; and H f Fine A useum o activities. (Tuesdays in Cambridge and Fri- days in Allston through October) Extracurriculars thnology; M Events on and off campus during July and August Bastille Day Belmont...Belmont Hill. 1928 English Country Cambridge...South-facing one bedroom close to Somerville...Prospect Hill, circa 1900 Victorian, www.harvardsquare.com House. Ten rooms: 5 bedrooms, 3.5 baths. Harvard Square. Enjoy oor to ceiling Charles period details with modern amenities. Eight Tastefully renovated. Pristine condition. Private River views. Visit: RiverviewCambridge.com. rooms: 5 bedrooms, 2 baths. Fenced yard/patio. Seasonal Services, this outdoor market offers local Celebrate at this annual Harvard Square rchaeology and E setting. $2,375,000 Price available upon request. www.5Bigelow.com. $800,000 The Farmers’ Market at Harvard goods—fresh produce, breads and baked party with food from Sandrine’s and other f A www.dining.harvard.edu/flp/ag_market. sweets, herbs, seafood, pasta, chocolates, local restaurants, music, and dancing into html jams, and cheeses—along with cooking the night on Holyoke Street. (July 13) useum o Organized by Harvard University Dining demonstrations, guest chefs, and children’s

Theater Peabody M t: f

(From left) Detail of a nineteenth-century North American Indian totem pole at the e Peabody Museum; Jamie Wyeth’s Kleberg (1984) at the Museum of Fine Arts; an oaten pipes American Repertory Theater hydroid from Sea Creatures in Glass at the Harvard Museum of Natural History www.americanrepertorytheater.org From L

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What’s NEW: new layout; expanded calendar; enhanced culinary-arts section; faculty, staff, and student Harvard picks; New England day trips; and more...

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140704_Hammond_v3.indd 1 6/5/14 10:22 AM Harvard Squared Harvard Squared

Delectables at the Harvard Farmers’ Take a leisurely paddle (no current) and Collection of Historical Scientific The Harvard Summer School Chorus Market, in Cambridge learn more about the birds, fish, and other Instruments performs a program of “Copland and Foss: The world premiere of Finding Neverland, wildlife that inhabit this increasingly clean http://chsi.harvard.edu/chsi_specex.html Great American Choral Music.” (August 1) portraying the relationship between the urban waterway. (Until mid October) Body of Knowledge offers a close look at The Harvard Summer School Orchestra Llewelyn Davies family and James Matthew skulls, spines, and other skeletal remains presents its annual concert. (August 2) Barrie as he writes Peter Pan, is staged by Sunday Parkland Games while explaining the history of anatomical ART artistic director Diane Paulus. (July www.thecharles.org/projects-and-programs/ studies and practices. The Institute for Contemporary Art 23-September 28) parklandgames www.icaboston.org f the arnold arboretum

ac From bocce and badminton to soccer and Peabody Museum of Archaeology In addition to art exhibits, the ICA hosts p recreation hula-hooping, adults and children can meet and Ethnology two new summer concert series on the Charles River Canoe and Kayak at the Weeks Bridge for fun and/or lessons www.peabody.harvard.edu waterfront. The line-up for Wavelengths courtesy o www.paddleboston.com/boston.php co-sponsored by the Charles River Conser- Change and Continuity: Hall of the North includes the radical performance artist Centre Street Gate by Kathy Rubado, on homas E arle/h homas T vancy. (Sundays through September 28) American Indian. Objects produced by the Peaches and the synthetic pop sounds of display at the Arnold Arboretum diverse cultures of indigenous peoples high- exhibitions & events light historic interactions with Europeans Harvard Museums of during a time of profound cultural change. Science and Culture http://hmsc.harvard.edu/ Harvard Museum of Natural History The HMSC is a consortium of the Collec- www.hmnh.harvard.edu tion of Historical Scientific Instruments, the Sea Creatures in Glass. Hand-crafted & an entire campus to explore Harvard Semitic Museum, the Peabody Mu- models of jellyfish, anemones, sea slugs, and Your own home seum of Archaeology and Ethnology, and the like by Leopold and Rudolf Blaschka the Harvard Museum of Natural History. (who also created the museum’s glass flowers) are newly restored and on display.

Museum of Fine Arts Spotlight www.mfa.org Summer ballet program Jamie Wyeth looks at the artist’s approach to realism, his career, and his role in a fa- Age 3, youth, mous family of creators. The more than 100 teen-adult-pointe works on display include portraits of his Grace–energy–harmony wife, Phyllis Wyeth, and of Andy Warhol, L INCOLN’ S N EWEST 62+ COMMUNITY Rudolph Nureyev, and John F. Kennedy. Visit us at: (Opening July 16)

www.freshpondballet.com archive ilm Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum Or on Facebook at: www.gardnermuseum.org facebook.com/FreshPondBallet f harvard Carla Fernández: The Barefoot Design- Fritz Lang’s science-fiction dystopia er: Passion for Radical Design and Com- ith visiting professors, fine dining, clubs, classes, and maintenance- Metropolis, filmed in Germany in 1925, munity. The multifaceted exhibit examines Wfree living, The Commons welcomes you to celebrate lifelong learning Nina Alonso, Director, FPB will be screened, along with other early the artist’s work to explore, preserve, and 1798a Mass Ave, Cambridge works, such as The Spiders and Dr. Ma- integrate the rich heritage of Mexican tex- and luxury living. 617.491.5865 buse, the Gambler, and Lang’s later Amer- tiles and indigenous artisans by using “cloth- ican hits Fury and The Big Heat. “Lang ing as canvas.” (Through September 1) is—with Hitchcock and Eisenstein—one of the most influential filmmakers ever, music Model Home Tours Daily #hyattu HYATT IS BOSTON. HYATT IS home. especially in his pioneering use of mor- Harvard Summer Pops Band Call 781-728-5721 Hyatt Regency Cambridge. ally ambiguous protagonists and his fasci- www.hcs.harvard.edu/~hub/events/sum- nation with technology and striking vi- merband.shtml Complimentary breakfast for two sual effects,” says David W. Pendleton, The 130-member ensemble performs high- the Harvard Film Archive programmer. lights from the Disney film Frozen, the music Discounted alumni rate “His silent films, especially Die Nibelun- of Gustav Holst, and other martial and me- Use special offer code “CAMPUS” gen, Metropolis, and Spies, helped establish lodious works. (July 24 at 4 p.m. in Harvard conventions and expectations…still vis- Yard; July 27 at 3 p.m. at the Hatch Shell in ible in Hollywood blockbusters today.” Boston) A Benchmark Signature Living Community Harvard Film Archive One Harvest Circle • Lincoln, MA 01773 • 781-728-5721 cambridge.hyatt.com http://hcl.harvard.edu/hfa Sanders Theatre www.TheCommonsInLincoln.com July 18 - September 8 www.boxoffice.harvard.edu Live wonderfully today. Preserve your tomorrow.

12D July - August 2014 Harvard Magazine 12E Harvard Squared

Hooray for Earth. (Fridays, July 11-August Staff Pick: Funkin’ It Up 29) Harborwalk Sounds offers free con- We see more than an certs by Berklee College of Music students, The Grammy Award-winning, New Orleans-based Rebirth Brass Band brings its performing bluegrass, funk, Cuban jazz, and unique blend of heavy funk with a hip-hop edge and horn-blasting street jazz to Cam- more. (Thursdays, July 10- August 28) investment portfolio. bridge this summer. The two shows offer Northeasterners the rare chance to really let go—sing, shout, and dance “second-line” parade-style—without traveling to the Nature and science South’s musical wellspring. “Rebirth…is more like a party than a machine,” according The Arnold Arboretum to The New York Times. “It’s a working model of the New Orleans musical ethos: as www.arboretum.harvard.edu long as everybody knows what they’re doing, anyone can cut loose.” Founded in 1983 A magnificent link in Boston’s Emerald Neck- by high-school friends in the city’s Tremé neighbor- July 26, The Middle East, Cambridge lace, the arboretum is a treasure trove of hood—tuba and sousaphone player Philip Frazier, August 14, The Sinclair, Cambridge native plants, old-growth trees, flowers, rare his brother, bass drummer Keith Frazier, and trum- www.rebirthbrassband.comm specimens, and walking trails. The current peter Kermit Ruffins—the group exhibit Arnold Ar- played on the streets of the French boretum in Plein Quarter, reviving that tradition, and Air features paintings soon recorded hits like “Do Watcha by Kathy Rubado and Document1 11/20/03 11:51 AM Page 1 Wanna,” and later played another, Document1 11/20/03 11:51 AM Carol Page Schweigert 1 that “Feel Like Funkin’ It Up,” in the open- capture the land- ing scene of Tremé, the HBO series scapes of this urban

and about post-Katrina spiritual recov- sanctuary through the ery. The band now performs all over seasons. rass B the world and will no doubt be trum-

ebirth B peting their newest release, Move Events listings are f R Your Body, which features the infec- also accessible at tious “Rebirth Groove.” Rebirth Brass Band www.harvardmag- ourtesy o

C azine.com.

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Name:Name:MiltonMilton R. R. Occupation:Occupation:PostalPostal Supervisor, Supervisor, Retired Retired Hobbies:Hobbies:Reading,Reading, Walking, Walking, Exercising Exercising Lifestyle:Lifestyle:Independent,Independent, Active Active ChoiceChoice of Senior/Assisted of Senior/Assisted Living: Living: At Fiduciary Trust we work with you to understand your goals—and to CadburyCadbury Commons Commons The Harvard alumni who chose “There“There is a is stable a stable and and gentle gentle atmosphere atmosphere chart the surest course for reaching them. Let us design a personalized of Cadbury helpof help and and Commons empathy empathy throughout throughoutmay have the the community.retiredcommunity. from I feel Iwork, feelassured assured but that not thatI am fromI partam part oflife. of financial solution that takes you where you want to go. others’others’ lives, lives, as they as they are ofare mine. of mine. For Formyself, myself, I feelIMuseum feel that that Cadbury CadburyVisits Commons • CommonsPlay Reading provides provides a a wellSymphonywell trained trained and andcaring Selections caring group group of •people ofLecture people who who are interestedare interested in my in welfare.”my welfare.” PLEASE CONTACT JULIE BARRON AT 617.574.3440 Series • Yoga • Organic Gardening CallCall (617) (617) 868-0575 868-0575 to arrange to arrange a personal a personal tour,Calltour, (617) or visit or 868-0575 visit www.cadburycommons.com www.cadburycommons.com to arrange a personal tour, FIDUCIARYTRUSTBOSTON.COM WhereWhereor visitThe www.cadburycommons.comThe Emphasis Emphasis Is On Is OnLiving Living 66 Sherman6666 Sherman Sherman Street, Street, Street, Cambridge, Cambridge, Cambridge, EQUAL EQUAL MA 02140◆ ◆ (617) 868-0575 HOUSING HOUSING MAMA 02140 02140 (617)• (617)868-0575 868-0575 OPPTY OPPTY INVESTMENT MANAGEMENT | TRUST SERVICES | FINANCIAL AND ESTATE PLANNING | FAMILY OFFICE SERVICES | ESTATE SETTLEMENT

12F July - August 2014

140706_FiduciaryTrust.indd 1 5/20/14 2:05 PM Harvard Squared explorations “The desire to collect things that have an emotional connection to us is almost universal.”

restoration project) and a rare tape loom traits,” Weiss explains, “is that by the (circa 1668-1700) used to weave fabric nineteenth century, a boom in itinerant edging, along with one of the few sur- painters and more people having money viving pre-Revolutionary wood carv- meant that average, middle-class people ings of the royal coat of arms. There are could now also have their portraits done.” also boxes—wooden, tin, and Shaker- Of special note are the McArthur fam- made—and evidence of Nina Little’s ily portraits by Royal Brewster Smith— particular affection for birds and eggs: among the many subjects and artists Nina clay and wooden statues and decoys of Little traced, identified, and wrote about sandpipers, terns, ducks, and cranes fill in more than 150 articles, five books, and shelves and nooks. And of Bertram Lit- several museum catalogs that fostered tle’s penchant for early lamps and candle wider scholarship about, and appreciation holders, and depictions of architectural for, these artifacts. structures. Among the more than 2,500 The unsmiling McArthurs hang to- objects in the 10-room house, visitors gether in the room Little used growing up, will also find weathervanes, hooked which was later reserved for the grand- rugs, farm tools, lanterns, clocks, red- children. “The way the people stare down In the hallway, an 1814 oil painting depicts ware pottery, painted folk art and furnish- at you from every point in the room!” ex- the launching of the U.S. frigate Washing- ings—and plenty of portraits of not-so- claimed Little, with a laugh. “Those paint- ton at the Portsmouth, New Hampshire, prominent people by little-known New Navy Yard. In the rear stands an ingenious ings gave my little nephew nightmares.” 1907 carved crane decoy that folds up to England artists. But as a child himself, Little was intrigued Lives in Art fit into a hunter’s pack. “What’s interesting about folk-art por- by much of what his parents brought Early American artifacts help animate history Harvard THE JOSEPH B. MARTIN Conference Center Medical School by Nell Porter Brown AT HARVARD MEDICAL SCHOOL

hey were called to meals by a ’26, and Nina Fletcher Grand Banks schooner’s foghorn, Little, spent summers Research the possibilities... and then ate from Staffordshire at the farm from 1938 plates. Leather fire-buckets served until they died in T Host your next event in the as wastebaskets. And some light could be 1993. The property, had from an early colonial device: a bulrush which also includes a contemporary New Research stalk soaked in tallow and “burned at both historic salt-hay barn Building at Harvard Medical School. ends.” and pastoral acres “It never occurred to us that other along the Essex River, is now a museum (Top) The bucolic Essex River property people didn’t have a house like this,” said owned and operated by Historic New Cogswell’s Grant, named for the 1636 royal • Distinctive conference center grant given to John Cogswell, is now a Warren “Renny” Little ’55 during a recent England. house museum open to the public. (Above) in a unique location tour of his family’s summer retreat, an For 60 years, the senior Littles col- American artifacts fill the home; a eighteenth-century farmhouse known as lected Americana they found beautiful bedroom highlights the birds especially • Elegant Rotunda Room with Cogswell’s Grant.“I knew nothing about and curious. In researching items, they loved by pioneering collector Nina Little. views of the Boston skyline the stuff,” he said—his parents’ pioneer- recorded stories about their owners and ing collection of American folk art and makers; now each piece in its own small and runs events—such as the open-air • State of the art ampitheater antiques that still crowd the interior— way illuminates the historic narrative of painting workshops and a talk on folk-art with seating for up to 480 although he and siblings Jack and Selina early America. “You don’t need to be an portraits this summer. “People come here were warned not to lean too far back in art historian to be a collector. The desire to learn about the family, what they were • Catering provided by the stiff wooden chairs. When something to collect things that have an emotional so passionate about, and about the history did break, he added, “Mother was very connection to us is almost universal,” says they wanted to share.” good about not yelling.” Historic New England site manager Kris- Tours cover the beehive oven (uncov- Their parents, Bertram K. Little ’23, Div ten Weiss, A.M.-CMS ’98, who gives tours ered during the Littles’ painstaking house- 77 Avenue Louis Pasteur, Boston, MA 02115 | 617-432-8992 | theconfcenter.hms.harvard.edu

12H July - August 2014 Photographs courtesy of Historic New England Harvard Magazine 12I Harvard Squared

173017301730 Massachusetts Massachusetts Massachusetts Ave Ave Ave Cambridge,Cambridge,Cambridge, MA MA MA 02138 02138 02138 617617617 245-4044 245-4044245-4044

1730 Massachusetts Ave Cambridge, MA 02138 617 245-4044

CCAMBRIDGECAMBRIDGEAMBRIDGE, MA, ,MA MA CCAMBRIDGECAMBRIDGEAMBRIDGE, MA, ,MA MA $ $2,450,000$ 2,450,000 2,450,000 $3,725,000$3,725,000$3,725,000 “They went for what appealed CAMBRIDGE, MA CAMBRIDGE, MA to them visually, and for the stories $ 2,450,000 $3,725,000 they could learn.” home, especially the painting and col- very interesting.” lage (circa 1850) by his bed. It depicts the Influenced by Bertram ocean-bound ship that brought the first Little’s cousin, Edna Odd Fellow, Thomas Wildey, to America Greenwood, whose own in 1817. Across the bottom of the painting, Americana collection is the history of the fraternal order is writ- at the Smithsonian, the couple began ac- (Clockwise from top left) A child’s room ten on yellowed sheets of paper and five quiring pieces in the 1920s, and ultimately includes imposing family portraits and a nineteenth-century hooked rug with an carved wooden figures represent the origi- filled Cogswell’s Grant and their year-round unusual leopard design; Nina Little’s study, CAMBRIDGECAMBRIDGE, MA, MA CAMBRIDGECAMBRIDGE, MA, MA nal members. home in Brookline, Massachusetts. By the preserved just as she left it; Nina and CAMBRIDGE, MA CAMBRIDGE, MA $2,745,000$2,745,000$2,745,000 $3,789,000 $3,789,000 $3,789,000 “There are a lot of quirky things here,” 1960s, they had decided to donate the prop- Bertram Little in the garden, 1973 said Little, who spent much of his own ca- erty, bound by conservation restrictions, to reer leading museums, such as the for- Historic New England, of which Ber- extant wine and whiskey bottles and fruit mer Higgins Armory in Worces- tram Little had been director from preserves in the cellar; Nina Little’s flower- CAMBRIDGE, MA CAMBRIDGE, MA ter, and other educational and 1947 to 1970. print purse that still hangs on the back of $2,745,000 $3,789,000 cultural programs. His par- According to Little, when her study chair, near her manual Smith-Co- ents, he points out, were Richard Nylander, their rona typewriter (on which she wrote dates drawn to objects that family friend and then- and notes on jelly-jar labels that she then others wouldn’t have no- curator with the organi- affixed to their objects), a 1920s phone (it ticed, or might even have zation, came to inven- still has a dial tone); and, on a closet shelf, trashed. “They were tory the house in the her husband’s straw hat, banded by a sage- BuildingBuildingBuilding Community CommunityCommunity One OneOne Home HomeHome at atat a a aTime TimeTime not snobs,” adds Weiss. early 1990s, he planned green silk necktie. “People ask why the roof “They went for what to spend a few weeks. It isn’t wood-shingled,” reported Little. “Well, appealed to them visu- took more like two years. because it’s not a historic museum, per se. ProudProudProud supporters supporters supporters of: of: of: The The The U. U. U. S. S. S.Fund Fund Fund for for for UNICEF, UNICEF, UNICEF, The The The Guidance Guidance Guidance Center, Center, Center, ally, and for the stories Every antique was photo- It’s a house and we lived in it just the way TheBuildingTheThe Mt. Mt. Mt. Auburn Auburn Auburn Hospital, CommunityHospital, Hospital, Huntington Huntington Huntington Theatre Theatre TheatreOne Company, Company, Company, Home and and and Community at Community Community a Time Servings Servings Servings they could learn. Nina graphed, numbered, and it is now.” Little’s Neat and Tidy is a catalogued, and noted, too, Walking through the preserved rooms whole book on the history were the hundreds of other is like seeing a series of nesting boxes be- Proud supporters of: The U. S. Fund for UNICEF, The Guidance Center, of boxes and how they were more “modern” objects, such ing slowly unpacked to reveal layers of The Mt. Auburn Hospital, Huntington Theatre Company, and Community Servings made and used and decorated. as an old glass jar of Bactine in American lives through history, all made It’s wonderfully strange and the medicine chest; the family’s tangibly real through ordinary objects

12J July - August 2014

140716_Coldwell-GailRobers.indd 1 5/23/14 10:38 AM Harvard Squared tastes and tables both artful and personal. In her later harp set in a window plays when river written in white chalk by Jack Little, years, Nina Little slept on the first floor breezes blow in. On a table are two hinge- along with a request: “Please don’t erase.” in a rope bed, using a green-and-gold, boxed slates that children once used to yarn-sewn bed rug from 1821 made with learn their school lessons. Little opens Cogswell’s Grant to Our Valued Advertising Partners hand-spun yarn and natural dyes. Lying them and reads out the names of his and June 1 through October 15 Essex, Massachusetts there, she looked up at a gracefully carved his brother’s children, with the dates they www.historicnewengland.org/historic-proper- flying goose hung from the ceiling; to her had visited their grandparents. All were ties/homes/cogswells-grant Cadbury Commons left was a box from a dry-goods store with compartments meant for spools of thread Canyon Ranch that instead held part of her beloved egg all in a day: collection. The Charles Hotel In the upstairs hallway, a wooden wind Retreat and Recreate: Peddocks Island Gail Roberts/ Skip the clogged commute to the Cape and start your vaca- tion right now by riding the ferry to Peddocks Island in Boston. At Coldwell Banker 184 acres, Peddocks is the largest of the Harbor Islands and offers the most diverse terrain—woodlands, fields, and beaches—along Barbara Currier/ with perfect views of the sun, both rising and setting, and the Coldwell Banker Boston skyline. “It’s big enough so you can lose yourself for a day,” notes Mike Dyer, vice presi- The Commons in Lincoln dent of development and (Clockwise from top left) An external affairs at the Boston island overview; visitors can take a seat after touring the Fiduciary Trust - Boston Harbor Alliance, “but has historic Fort Andrews chapel; enough mystery to captivate evidence of the still-active Food Fiesta Fresh Pond Ballet you for the weekend.” summer-cottage community; Where Georges Island’s and one of many First World War-era buildings at Fort Latin American culinary heritage thrives in East Boston. Carol & Myra/ Civil War-era Fort Warren Andrews Hammond attracts umpteen visiting school children a year and ost New Englanders know East Brattle Office/ Spectacle Island’s Cinderella tale proves that Boston only as the home of Lo- Hammond landfills can become stunning urban parks, Ped- gan Airport. But a recent tour of docks, alone, offers yurt camping. Stay in one of M the wide range of Latin Ameri- International School the luxurious canvas-sided yurts just built this can restaurants and bakeries there proves year, or go more rustic at a traditional tent site. that the community is a gastronomic des- of Boston Then spend the rest of the time exploring the tination on its own. island’s own military history, its summer-cottage Food adventurers can walk or bike the Lux, Bond & Green colony, or go bird-watching, hiking, fishing, or streets and stop in for sweets like Mexi- Fine Jewelry swimming at sandy Petty Cove. can pastel tres leches (cake infused with sweet The island is divided by hills, or headlands: East, milk) or Peruvian-style alfajores (powdered Massachusetts Middle, and West. The ferry docks at East Head, cookies sandwiching dulce de leche), grab a General Hospital where the camping is located, and where visitors savory Salvadorean pupusa (a thick corn tor- can walk among the remaining World War I-era tilla stuffed with cheese or finely ground McLean Hospital brick buildings of Fort Andrews, including the pork) to go, or settle down for a plate of newly renovated chapel (now open for public Bolivian silpancho (potatoes or rice covered Sandrine’s Bistro and private events), and learn some island his- by schnitzel-style beef topped by a fried egg tory. Native Americans used Peddocks, says and cilantro or pico de gallo). Thompson Island OBP Dyer, before European farmers arrived in 1634. By 1776, more than 600 militiamen The affordable food is fresh and home- oston B were stationed there to guard against British troops; the fort itself was active from / made, typically by the owners, their family k 1904 through the end of World War II. members, or another local business. Bobbi Reed/ Hiking trails run throughout the island. The quarter-mile loops are good for small- iz coo “East Boston has the most diverse His- Viewpoints MV Que Padre owner Victor Duran (top) er legs; for tougher types, a 2.5-mile route extends into the uninhabited West End. earls; Justin Knight/ panic population in the city,” says Merry serves Mexican and Bolivian specialties: Hilly, tree-lined trails, rolling grasslands, and native roses and hedgerows abound. It oc S “Corky” White ’63, Ph.D. ’80, a cook, food lliance; and L beef saltenas and the “Sonora hotdog”— Support from these advertisers t: D t: may not be “wilderness,” but as a haven in a major American city, Peddocks gets f writer, and Boston University anthropol- with bacon, beans, and jalapeño sauce.

p le (Above) La Sultana Bakery sells cakes helps us produce the independent,

wondrously close to unspoiled nature. slands A ogy professor. That blending of cultures and Peddocks Island/National Park Service and pastries and has a savory breakfast high-quality publication Harvard alumni And any time spent there is far more rom to chefs produces both “a mixing across ethnic and lunch buffet as well. Saleswoman

Ferry runs from June 20 through September 1 arbor I rely on for information about rejuvenating than hours spent sitting (2) slands A lliance foodways and a preservation of foods within Marleny Carmona proffers a plate of www.bostonharborislands.org/passenger-ferry wise f k the University and each other. in a hot car on Route 3. For camping, www.reserveamerica.com each group,” she explains, “because every- rice, stewed yuccas, shredded pork, and arbor I H arbor boston H cloc one now lives in the same neighborhood and a beet salad with eggs, peas, and carrots.

Photographs by Nell Porter Brown 88 12L July - August 2014 Harvard Magazine 12M Harvard Squared Harvard Squared because all the older generation still want, Ethnographic Study” that gets undergradu- and food. In East Boston, she starts the tour and are making, their own dishes the way ates out of the classroom and into the city’s at the MBTA Blue Line’s Maverick Station, The Many Faces of Boston they always ate them.” diverse communities to learn about politics, named, she says, for Samuel Maverick, who White teaches a course called “Boston: An history, architecture, urban economics— farmed the area in the 1630s with the help The ancestors of most Bostonians may Advertising trade of slaves—“a fact that always surprises my have hailed from Ireland and Italy, but the cards from the 1850s to the 1910s students.” current top two immigrant groups are from depict Irish Curiosities: Nepal in Pictures Comprised of five islands linked by land- China and the Dominican Republic, accord- immigrants’ social and economic fill over time, East Boston by the mid 1800s ing to City of Neighborhoods: The Changing ibrary In thousands of photographs taken between 1975 and 2011, Kevin Bubriski has Face of Boston, an exhibit at the Boston Pub- climb from the was an industrial and shipbuilding center laboring classes to helped document the dramatic evolution of daily life in Nepal, from its years as a and a main port for ships, such as Cunard lic Library. Overall, about 27 percent of city civil-service jobs.

Hindu kingdom to what he calls “the current precarious peace.” Line vessels, that brought the first waves residents were born abroad, a quarter of oston Public L The artist’s latest book, Ne pa l: 1975 -2011 (published in May by Peabody Museum of Irish immigrants. (Joseph P. Kennedy them in Asia. Nearly half of East Boston’s inhabitants are foreign- Press and Radius Books), reveals his favorite prints, 30 of which are on display for the was born there in 1888.) Italians, Russians, born, the majority from Latin and South America. Boston also has f the B first time in Shadows of Shangri La: Nepal in Photographs, at the Harvard University Asia Poles, Jews, and others followed. Some of the third-largest Haitian population in the country (after New

Center. Ranging from black-and-white portraits of villagers in the 1970s and 1980s to their descendents still live in East Boston, York City and Florida), and a growing Cape Verdean community. courtesy o scenes with soldiers during the country’s civil war (1996-2006) and colorful depictions reports White, among both waterfront gen- These dramatic trends are illustrated through maps, U.S. Census data, photographs, Boston Public Library | Through August 22 of commercialism and poverty in modern-day Kathmandu, the photographs are not trifiers and the newer immigrants, who are and drawings that make clear that this ever-changing population influences the city’s www.bpl.org/exhibitions/current-exhibitions/city-of- politically driven. Rather, they aim to show “only one person’s experience, not a primarily from El Salvador, Guatemala, the physical landscapes and culture in countless ways—and always has. neighborhoods culture, historic period, ethnographic group, or complex social or economic condi- Dominican Republic, and Colombia. Italian tion,” he writes. “They are selected moments within the edges of a framed world.” landmarks—Santarpio’s, Jeveli’s, and Spi- hot buffets that include the ubiquitouschich - Rincon Limeño (www.rinconlimeno. an favorite), Dominican cake dribbled with Bubriski first took pictures in Nepal while surveying and building water systems as a nelli’s bakery—are still there, as are bars arrón (deep-fried chunks of pork and skins). com). The Peruvian alfajores can be bought dulce de leche, rice pudding with a cinnamon 20-year-old Peace Corps volunteer, adopting the street artist’s approach: “letting peo- like Kelley’s Square Pub. “Barney’s Grill is La Topacio (no website; 617-567-9523). at the register, or dine in on shrimp ceviche, kick, and yellow cake filled with flan. ple present themselves as they are,” he said in a recent interview from his home in left over from the Irish, then it was Italian,” Try the Salvadorean pupusas with pickled grilled steak with fried plantains, or the Co- Que Padre (www.quepadretaqueria. Vermont. One shot taken during the king and queen’s 1978 visit to Jumla (a remote White adds. “Now the TVs only play fútbol slaw, or the picado—chunks of chicken, lombian montañero (flank steak, fried pork com). The Mexican and Bolivian specialties northwestern mountain town that at the time was more than ten days’ walk from the and they serve Corona” instead of Guinness. beef, chicharrón, and sausage served over rinds, and runny eggs over rice). include silpancho and saltenas (pastry pockets closest road), he caught the awed expressions of residents who, he reports, “revered White shops at the many family-owned French fries, often in a sauce with peppers Lolly’s Bakery (www.lollysbakery.com). filled with a juicy blend of chicken or beef, the king as the reincarnation of the Hindu god Vishnu.” markets for ingredients such as panela and onions. Dense, warm bread puddings (a Colombi- with potatoes, eggs, and peas). vn.p.b. By 2010, Nepal had become a republic and the royal palace in Kathmandu was a (brown-sugar loaves), fresh arepas (hefty public museum. Checking his camera at the gates, as required, Bubriski toured the corn-flour pancakes, good topped with fried monarch’s former bedroom, bathroom, and rear gardens. Markers showed where nine cheese, meat, or jam), and jars of panca pep- family members were killed in 2001, allegedly by the crown prince. That, he adds, per paste. Following are some more of her juxtaposed with an image he took outside the palace gates of teenaged Nepalese tour- favorite places to shop or eat. ists standing around with their cell La Sultana Bakery (www.lasultanabak- MARTHA’S VINEYARDP Hammond P Residential 1899 COLONIAL REVIVAL phones and cameras, “shows the “Shadows of Shangri La: Nepal in Photographs” Private Hatch Road Water Views & Beach Real Estate WEST CAMBRIDGE Harvard University Asia Center, through September ery.com). Simple breads and frosting-heavy incredible transformation that has http://asiacenter.harvard.edu; 617-496-6273 Colombian cakes of all colors, along with occurred within this country.” When last in Nepal in 2011, on the Tibetan New Year, Bubriski saw other signs of change while Rogers Dodge rey ©Je visiting the Boudhanath Stupa, a pilgrimage site for Tibetan Bud- dhists living in Kathmandu. In the SINGLE FAMILY RESIDENCE past, people gathered there, per- haps to “throw roasted barley Cambridge...Built in 1922 by famous architect 1890s Colonial Revival. Filled with beautiful Charming circa 1900s converted carriage house Lois Lilley Howe, this Colonial-style home, sited on period detail. 12 rooms with 5 bedrooms and flour in the air and cheer for the in historic settlement, once owned by Kingman a 9,000+ square-foot lot, is situated in the coveted 3½ baths. Private entry 2-bedroom apartment. new year and the long life of the Brewster, and formerly part of the Sailors’ Free Avon Hill neighborhood and features six bedrooms Separate stand-alone home gym. Fenced Dalai Lama,” he explains, but “any Reading Room property. Fabulous deck & veranda, and three and one-half bathrooms. The kitchen, yard, garden, and terrace. Huron Village Area newly renovated in 2010, includes radiant heated political expressions at the Stupa formal gardens, steps to the beach, walk to town. convenient to transportation, shops, restaurants, 4 BR, 3B, fireplace, walk-out basement, .53 acre. ﬂ oors and top-of-the-line appliances. There are and Fresh Pond. Exclusively Offered - $2,250,000 are forbidden now.” He was moved Exclusive: $2,950,000 extraordinary beautiful gardens surrounding the to see one elderly woman in a soft house, which is sited sideways from the street, BARBARA CURRIER Bobbi Reed THE CURRIER TEAM | FINE PROPERTIES pink hat circumambulating the offering exceptional privacy. Large potting shed Broker, Realtor®, CRS, GRI and koi pond make this a gardener’s delight. Phone: 617-593-7070 monument, holding a prayer wheel t CAMBRIDGE 508.693.0222 ext. 1# Price upon request. Email: [email protected] c 508.737.3339 f 508.693.5888 and rosary beads (above), and Web: www.BarbaraCurrier.com framed the moment she passed [email protected] CAROL KELLY & MYRA VON TURKOVICH www.viewpointsmv.com Vice Presidents, Hammond Residential Real Estate 171 Huron Avenue Nepali policemen in full riot gear carolandmyra.com | hammondre.com

i k i Cambridge, Mass. waiting, he says, “for a call to ac- Box 877 • 71 Main Street, Vineyard Haven, MA 02568 617.835.5008 & 617.834.0838 02138 ubris tion.” vn.p.b.

Kevin B Kevin If you would like to list a property in our September-October issue, contact Abby Shepard: 617.496.4032.

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