Issue 171 June 2021

Blooming lovely Rachel Wigram celebrates nature in crochet Under cover Tricia Basham explores knitted underwear Wire jewellery Stunning knitted pieces by Erica Thomson Un Convention 2021 Details inside

The Journal of the Established in 1978 for Education, Innovation Knitting & Crochet Guild and Preservation p. 1 SlipKnot 171 Rachel Wigram’s crochet brings nature to life p. 6 Jennifer Freestone remembers Patricia Roberts p. 32

Alison Simpson’s husband’s original ‘jummy’ p. 7 Alison Simpson’s update on an old favourite p. 7

Patricia Scott’s Lozenge sweater p. 30 East London Branch report p. 23 p. 2 SlipKnot 171 ... From the CONTENTS Features A garden for life 6 Editor ‘Are you sitting comfortably?’ 7 We have gradually been emerging, slightly Artful knitting 8 blinking, into the light. Buoyed by longer Book Reviews 12 days and increasing sunshine, we are more Did you know? 9, 27 than ready to see friends and family again and to embrace experiences that were Highland Threads 18 forbidden for many months. Knitted underwear 10 Patterning on a knitting machine 38 This issue of Slipknot exemplifies the creativity and imagination that have helped Shared aims 30 us all get through: the shared projects; the Sue Blacker, 1951–2021 17 friendships old and new sustained through Using wire on your knitting machine 28 online Branch meetings; the ingenuity of Visual design approaches on machines 36 virtual exhibitions and events programmes V-stitch mini shopping bag 31 that have enabled us to explore and learn Your memories of Patricia Roberts 32 from the comfort of our armchairs. Whilst starting to resume the sociability of daily life, The Guild I’m sure we will hold on to much of what we 200 Club 35 have discovered over the past year. As Rachel Branch reports 22 Wigram’s lovely crochet (p. 6) reminds us, Contributions to Slipknot 37 we have learned to value our crafts more Directors and post-holders 4 than ever for the sense of peace they bring From the Editor 3 and we have welcomed the space to learn Message from the Board 4 new skills and to deepen our knowledge. It The Guild on social media 40 will be very interesting to see what we bring UnConvention 2021 20 of this experience into the future, both as individuals and as a Guild. Cover image: Have a good summer and I look forward to Rachel Wigram celebrates sharing experiences at the UnConvention in nature in crochet September! The views and opinions expressed by Denise contributors to Slipknot may not necessarily Download a full-colour pdf of. this.. issue from the reflect or represent those of the Knitting & members’ area of the website. Crochet Guild.

SlipKnot 171 p. 3 Directors and post-holders of the Knitting & Crochet Guild The Board is elected by Guild members The directors’ and post-holders’ names and both as directors of the company and of responsibilities are listed on the Guild’s the charity. The whole board is responsible website: kcguild.org.uk/about-guild/our- for the strategic direction, governance and board-and-officers/. management of the Guild.

Slipknot team Editors Denise Cripps & Elspeth May [email protected] Machine Knitting Editor Liz Smedley [email protected] Designer Lindy Zubairy [email protected] Book reviews Rita Taylor [email protected] Branch reports Anne Scahill [email protected] Did you know? Lesley O’Connell Edwards [email protected] Proofreaders Patricia Denne, Lesley Lougher, Sally Kentfield, Clare Griffel, Pam Mitchell, Sue Thomas Message from the Board Greetings from your Board! We hope that members over the past few months. We you are all keeping well and safe. I’m writing had decided some time ago that we should this on 12 April, the date on which, among expand the size of the Board so as to be able other less important changes, many of our to cover all the work needing to be done, great local yarn shops will be re-opening for and we’ve been fortunate that a number business. I’m sure we’re all looking forward of volunteers have come forward, with to being able to squish those lovely hanks skills which will be invaluable to the Board. instead of just viewing them on a screen You will have the opportunity to meet all – and of course, supporting LYS after the the members of your Board at the online difficult year they’ve had gives us the perfect Convention, of which more in a moment. excuse to add to our stash! The move of our membership records and The Board has welcomed several new associated processes to Sheep has yielded p. 4 SlipKnot 171 all the benefits for which we had hoped, in remote working. Feedback from last year’s particular reducing the very heavy workload online Convention indicated that many of the Membership Secretary. Thanks to people who for financial, health or other the work of several Board members (work reasons would not be able to access a which would have cost the Guild a good face-to-face Convention really welcomed deal had we had to pay a consultancy) the the opportunity to take part in the virtual changes have gone smoothly, and we are still event. Attendance at the AGM was also discovering aspects of our work with which much greater than we would ever get at Sheep can assist. a ‘real’ meeting, which is excellent for the democratic running of the Guild. So we are The attention of our IT experts has now planning, even when face-to-face events moved to the website, which will be are possible again, to include more online undergoing a major update in the near activities for members. The Board will also future. The new version should be easier continue to meet virtually once a month, to navigate, and the changes give us the with just two face-to-face meetings per year opportunity to give the site a more up-to- – leading to a big saving in travel expenses, date look and feel. and reducing our environmental footprint. We’ve had very helpful visits to Board As always, if you would like to get more meetings by members of the Collections involved in the running of your Guild, or if team, and by your Slipknot editors; you have ideas you’d like us to consider, do quite apart from being interesting, these get in touch – contact details for all Board discussions help to ensure that the Board is members are on the website. We look fully informed about important aspects of forward to ‘meeting’ many of you at the the Guild’s activity. They will also help inform Convention – meanwhile, stay safe and enjoy our Business Plan, currently in the course of your crafting. development, which will guide the operation of the Guild over the next few years. Clare Griffel On behalf of the Board Planning is now in full swing for the next online Convention, to be held in September. Slipknot is published by the Knitting & More information about the programme is Crochet Guild and printed by Dearneside contained in a separate article elsewhere Press, Huddersfield. in this Slipknot. As last year, the AGM will Slipknot 172: Copy date 30/6/21 take place via Zoom during the Convention weekend – you’ll be receiving information about nominations and voting nearer to Knitting & Crochet Guild Part First Floor, Britannia Mill, the event. Slaithwaite, Huddersfield, HD7 5HE Strange as it may seem, there have been Company No. 05457452. Registered charity no. 1113468. some advantages to our period of enforced

SlipKnot 171 p. 5 A garden for life Rachel Wigram celebrates nature through crochet.

I am disabled and housebound and I find that crochet gives me a wonderful outlet for creativity. I am never happier than with a crochet hook in my hand, a fresh ball of yarn at my side and my head full of creative possibilities. Crochet centres and settles me when life is choppy and, ordinate with the style and designs of the through this coronavirus pandemic, it has different teacups. been nothing short of a lifeline. Like many of us, I found the beginning Anything that connects me with nature of this year particularly tough-going, so I and the outside world really lifts my decided to crochet an indoor spring garden spirits and I’ve found myself particularly to help me embrace the unfolding season drawn to crocheting flowers through this and the hope it brings. The snowdrops past year of lockdowns and isolation. came first inspired by a little bunch a Puzzling out how to create them leads me friend brought me to encourage me that to spend many happy hours looking at spring was really coming. Then came the photos of beautiful flowers and gardens, crocuses as another friend sent me photos which is a pleasure in itself. Then comes of carpets of them seen on her daily walk. the process of experimenting with shapes Next came the primroses as I spied a shy and techniques to make a particular type clump emerging outside my window. of flower until it looks just right or right Finally, it was time for bold, sunshiny enough. Then there is the joy of making daffodils and miniature narcissi. In the each flower and arranging them together. midst of it all, I couldn’t resist including Last summer I particularly enjoyed the cheeky robin who kept me entertained creating teacup flower arrangements as day by day bobbing around our garden. gifts for some wonderful neighbours who The whole process nurtured hope and had been extraordinarily generous and joy within me and now I have an indoor caring through the first lockdown. It was garden that doesn’t need watering. Thank fun choosing colours and flowers to co- goodness for crochet! p. 6 SlipKnot 171 succumbed to age and a hole or two had Are you sitting appeared in the fabric. comfortably? ‘Oh, my favourite Jummy!’ he wailed, with a tear in his eye, ‘What am I to do?’ Alison Simpson’s story to warm the heart. His wife promised that she would knit him a new jumper. Are you sitting comfortably? Then I’ll begin… ‘What would you like?’ she asked. A long time ago there was a kind and ‘I want the same pattern’ he replied. generous woman who had three sons. So the wife hunted through all her knitting She’d been brought up on a farm, so it patterns, knowing that she hadn’t disposed came naturally to her to knit and crochet. of any that had come from his mother, One day, when her youngest son was and couldn’t find the pattern. Six months reaching manhood, she sat down and of searching on the internet and in charity knitted a complicated jumper for him. shops finally unearthed a copy. She poured all her love into her knitting and when she gave the jumper to him, he ‘What colour would you like?’ the wife cherished it. asked. A few years later, her youngest son got ‘I want it in the same colour’ he replied. married and soon after that had children So, another long search took place for of his own, and his mother knitted for her a (reasonable) match for the colour grandchildren with the same care and in a suitable yarn. This was eventually love that she’d shown her own children. successful and the wife sat down to start Sadly, within a short time, the woman fell to knit with love in her heart for her ill and died. Her husband offered all her husband and her mother-in-law. knitting and crochet products to the wife of the youngest son as she was the only Eventually, with many rests, mistakes one of his daughters-in-law who pursued and picking up smaller projects to knit in those crafts and she accepted them between, the jumper was finished (see with pleasure. photos on p. 2). The wife, happy with her efforts, handed it to her husband with Many more years passed and the youngest the admonition ‘I hope that will last you son continued to wear the jumper that his another 45 years, because I don’t think I mother had made him. He claimed it was have it in me to knit another like that!’* his favourite garment until the day, about 40 years after it had been created, that *From finding the first hole to completion he went to put it on and found that it had the jumper took about four years…

SlipKnot 171 p. 7 Artful knitting Denise Cripps explores the work of artist Sam Meech.

I stumbled across Sam Meech’s innovative design work on Twitter (@videosmithery), attracted by a card game he had designed. Fair Isle 40 is a pattern-matching game where players compete to knit the best pattern over four rows of cards, unlocking pattern bonuses as they go – it’s fun and rather addictive! The idea for the game arose from Sam’s need to make something away from the screen over the past year and he chose knitting because it ‘provides aesthetic goals as well as the idea of “building” something’. Sam’s work is about a lot more than fun and games though. He is an artist, educator and videosmith whose work Tim Berners Lee wearing one of Sam Meech’s combines projection design, interactive knitted scarves video installation, community engagement and digital textiles. He is interested in the a data-visualisation scarf telling the story ‘overlap and interplay between digital of 25 years of the World Wide Web and and analogue hybrid design processes one design contained a quote from Sir and the possibilities of combining the two Tim Berners Lee’s 1989 Cern memo: ‘The in production and performance’. These system must allow any sort of information interests have led him to use machine to be entered. Another person must be knitting in a number of his projects (see able to find the information, sometimes http://portfolio.smeech.co.uk/category/ without knowing what he is looking for’. projects/knit/), often combined with Sam enjoys using domestic knitting typography. machines in his collaborative projects as The ‘Binary Scarves’ project was informed people get to knit whilst also learning by the ASCII text system of encoding text about digital design. Alphaknit is a to binary. Sam was commissioned to create collection of knitting patterns created p. 8 SlipKnot 171 by young people in Liverpool Libraries, Did you working within the standard 24-stitch punchcard system for machine knitting. know? Creating a unique letter-form in pixels, Compiled by Lesley O’Connell each pattern was manufactured as a Edwards. physical knitting pattern sample to take home. The designs and workshops were Knitters against malaria also combined in a pattern-zine which can is an initiative by Melanie be found on Sam’s website. Developing Berg and Rosy Green from that project, Tricotype, explores the Wool, to raise funds constraints – and opportunities – offered for insecticide-treated within the space of a standard machine- mosquito nets through knitting punchcard to design typefaces and the Against Malaria letterforms. Foundation. It has run an annual appeal for the past three years Originally from Huddersfield, Sam now from 24 December to 31 January. The lives in Montreal in Canada. He is starting 2020/21 appeal raised over 20,000 euros, to prototype some new ideas for his which will provide almost 11,000 nets. knitting machines and is particularly The nets last for three to four years. fascinated by the amazing colour palettes, patterns and architecture of the metro Woola produces a substitute for bubble stations in Montreal. I can’t wait to see wrap for packaging, based on leftover what he comes up with! wool, not suitable for the textile industry. It has been used in this country: a friend had his Valentine present protected by it. The packaging is a layer of wool between two layers of recycled paper: all are potentially recyclable, when separated out. Recipients are advised either to compost the wool, or to get creative with it – although Woola don’t give any ideas! The company is based in Estonia, but is currently using British wool, though they hope to set up contracts with Estonian farmers. See www.woola.io for more details and to request a sample.

SlipKnot 171 p. 9 for bodices in llama or cashmere, including some knitting patterns for children and Knitted crochet patterns for ladies’ underslips. underwear Next came Weldon’s Practical Knitter Tricia Basham goes and, from the 39th series, illustrations undercover… of children’s petticoats (these could be Setting aside childhood memories of itchy recreated as dresses), lady’s combinations knitted vests, I was keen to see Joyce and a vest for a three-year-old child. Meader’s collection of patterns and knitted Joyce is busily recreating items from the items and she didn’t disappoint at her talk WWI period and showed us a gentleman’s for the Knitting History Forum in March. vest. She noted that WWI vests seemed Joyce collects commercially printed knitting to be all short-sleeved, with long sleeves patterns and she started by mentioning being confined to long johns; she pointed Eleonore del Riego de la Branchardiere’s out that the long john pattern suggested The Useful Knitting Book published in 1864 to ‘knit gusset if required’ which conjured and showed us the ‘cover’ that she had up a marvellous mental picture. Most of made following the pattern noted in the the patterns Joyce uses for WWI items book as a ‘Lady’s Under Vest’. Although she come from Odhams publications, including knitted her version in DK yarn (as opposed Knitting for All Illustrated and Practical to the 4-ply noted in the pattern), she was Knitting Illustrated. still amazed at the tiny size of the waist in Patons Knit & Crochet Book, originally the finished garment. costing 1 shilling, again had pretty We were then directed to The Lady’s children’s petticoats. Lots of the Knitting Book published in 1875 by Elvina underwear in these books was made with M Corbould (first published in 1874), a artificial yarns, mock silk, etc. and we book with several patterns for bodices started seeing some of Joyce’s amazing and vests; Joyce noted that any early collection of period yarn. illustrations must always be viewed with Joyce followed up with a huge selection caution: they may not be reliable as the of pattern booklets – Fancy Needlework artist may not have seen the garment at Illustrated, Scotch Hosiery & Wool Shop any stage. leaflets,Penelope (a French publication) Manufacturers’ price lists were an and Bestway were just a few – and unexpected source of patterns. There was commented that some of the cami tops a price list from Fleming Reid where you are great made with luxury modern yarn could order yarn and knitting instructions for evening wear. p. 10 SlipKnot 171 We moved on to the 1940s when only No1 ‘for use in the Everest expedition and 24 clothing coupons were allowed and, our troops in Korea’. Patterns for thermal with 18 needed for a winter coat, the underwear made from Falcon Thermocrill remaining coupons needed to be eked 20% acrylic and 80% chlorofiber were out over the year. Joyce mentioned that claimed to be ‘indestructible’! Chlorofiber blackout material was not on ration is made from PVC and is now used for and that knickers made out of it were dental implants and in matrix printing. terribly uncomfortable. We were still knitting underwear in the Joyce showed us some WAAF’s knickers 1960s and we saw an example of Patons with removable elastic. Elastic, although Beehive Vest Wool and pattern SC134. not on ration, was in short supply so Finally, bringing us more up to date, was needed to be used for more than one pair. Joan McGowan-Michael’s book Knitting One attendee mentioned that it reminded Lingerie Style, published in 2007 – copies them of the shortage of elastic at the are expensive but individual patterns are start of the lockdown when everyone was available online via making their own masks! http://whiteliesdesigns.com/patterns/ String underwear is Joyce’s pet project. llingerie.html. Often described as ‘healthy’ and providing A full list of all the publications mentioned an insulating barrier in the winter and is available on the Knitting History Forum allowing air to circulate in the summer, she mailing list; the video will also be posted showed us numerous examples of vests, online. Contact Tricia directly for more boxer shorts and two washing baskets details ([email protected]). See also full of examples for all ages. Apparently Joyce Meader’s website: string vests were invented in 1932 by a http://historicknit.co.uk/. Norwegian colonel and they are still used Lady’s bodice today by the military when sending troops to cold climates and for those involved in ‘hot fuelling’ aircraft. Many yarns were produced to serve the market in healthy underwear and we were treated to examples from Halls, Acorn, Starlite and Coats ‘Musica’. Joyce showed her treasured skein of Twilley’s

SlipKnot 171 p. 11 BOOK REVIEWS Edited by Rita Taylor. such things as intensive A Short History of the World farming. Sally Coulthard Sally Coulthard, According to Sheep, doesn’t try to solve all Head of Zeus, 2020. Hardback, 308 the challenges associated pages, £16.99. ISBN 9781789544206 with sheep rearing but she A simple search for ‘books about sheep’ leaves us with something on Amazon came up with two thousand to ponder. results. Many related to books about sheep breeds, raising sheep or just celebrating them. This book is different Elspeth May in that it aims to provide a narrative of sheep’s contribution to our world. There Knitted Space: a collection of is an eclectic collection of chapters, no galactic toys to knit,Sarah Keen. doubt influenced by the author’s direct GMC Publications, 2021. Paperback, 120 experience of keeping a small flock of pages, £14.95. ISBN 9781784946050 sheep on her smallholding in Yorkshire. This is a delightful book, full of patterns There is much to enjoy here from the early for a spaceman, Martians, attempts at domesticating wild sheep planets, stars and even through to contemporary discoveries a space dog, with lots of about sheep’s intelligence. If you don’t colour photographs on believe the latter attribute, there is an every page. example of sheep working out how to The pattern instructions get across a cattle grid by rolling on their are easy to follow and backs, ‘…like SAS commandos’. I loved that there are no complicated stitches, just visual image. plain and purl. There are comprehensive Other subjects which are dealt with ‘How to’ instructions at the back, so even include the development of spinning a beginner should be able to make one of techniques, the life of a shepherd and their the cute characters. A UK/US needle size sheep dogs, wartime knitting (not just in comparison chart is included too, together the UK), and the economics and politics of with abbreviations, hints on choosing cloth making. yarns, tension/gauge, safety, sewing up and finishing a project. The book ends with a brief consideration of the future of sheep and the impact of I would recommend this book to anyone, p. 12 SlipKnot 171 especially those who, like myself, have equivalent. They range from very simple grandchildren, or are looking for attractive, things such as a balaclava and a snood but easy patterns to knit for charity. to much more intricate, full garments There are other books in the series too: featuring cables, lace, colourwork and Knitted Cars and Trucks and Knitted embroidery. All the patterns are in the Noah’s Ark. written-out form – there are no schematics other than graphs for the colourwork. Brenda Smith Following the original publication format, the patterns are only given for one size, Knitting Fashions of the 1940s: typically 36–40 inch chest but using Style, Patterns and History,Jane modern yarn weights, often 4-ply or DK. Waller. Crowood Press Ltd., 2021. Jane stresses that ‘the old 2- and 3-ply Paperback, 160 pages, £16.99. ISBN wool was heavier than today’s: what 9781785007897 was then a 2-ply will be the equivalent of today’s 3’, so some of the modern This is a paperback reprint of Jane Waller’s reconstructions do not seem to fit in the classic 2006 book on way a 1940s garment would. vintage knitting based upon patterns from the This book is well researched, engagingly era of the 1940s. Jane written and presents a useful ‘history notes that ‘authentic of wartime Britain and America, often 1940s garments were using the actual words of the knitters and made from pure wools designers used by the fashion magazines’ in a fine ply on fine of the time. needles and made to last’. There are seven chapters presenting the knitting history Linde Merrick chronologically from the outbreak of Mati World War II towards the 1950s, covering Knitting from Fair Isle, the topics of wartime knitting (both for the Ventrillon. Kyle Books, 2020. troops and on the home front), glamour, Paperback, 144 pages, £18.99. ISBN intricate stitches, Fair Isles, and children. 9780857837486 The patterns celebrate a decade of Mati Ventrillon has lived on Fair Isle since imaginative, stylish knitting, often figure- 2007, when she gave up her architect’s hugging, adding Fair Isle and embroidery job in London for a complete change of embellishments to overcome the scarcity lifestyle. With no experience of knitting, of wools. she has learnt to knit and design Fair Isle Each chapter tells a tale and each item garments having joined the Fair Isle Crafts is illustrated by both the original pattern Co-operative. With such a background, you photograph or drawing and its modern might expect her first book of patterns to

SlipKnot 171 p. 13 ...BOOK REVIEWS (CONTINUED) be different to others’ and it is. who want to learn more about the island and how its unique knitting heritage is This is a beautifully designed book, printed continuing to this day. on high-quality paper and copiously and colourfully illustrated with pattern charts Elspeth May and wonderful images of the island’s distinctive scenery. There are 15 patterns STAR WARS: Knitting the Galaxy, to knit, including jumpers, scarves, hats The Official Star Wars Knitting and fingerless gloves. Divided into three Pattern Book,Tanis Gray. Pavilion sections of five patterns each, the sections’ Books, 2021. Hardback, 208 pages, titles give clues to what you can expect: £22.99. ISBN:978011663577 ‘Inspired by tradition’; ‘Playing with backgrounds’; and ‘Past and present’. Not so very long ago, in a galaxy far, far away… Tanis Gray has written another Jamieson’s Spindrift yarn is used for each official movie-themed knitting book. design and patterns are presented in the This one follows hot on the heels of her same three colourways throughout – mid- successful Harry Potter Knitting Magic. grey and white, traditional colours (red, blue, gold and white), and blues and white Tanis Gray is the author of nine knitting with red accents. This enables the reader books and has over 500 published knitting to appreciate how a particular design designs. She features regularly on Knitting will look in different colours which I think Daily TV and teaches knitting worldwide. would be helpful if you wanted to choose For Star Wars fans this book is definitely your own palette. Each design features worth a look. It contains 28 projects, each all-over colourwork and is suitable for both one with snippets of information and trivia men and women. from behind the scenes of the films. As an avid You can choose to knit cuddly toys, fan of including a Porg, a pocket Yoda and traditional a Chewie. There are four options to Fair Isle, knit replica costumes, including Luke I would Skywalker’s flight jacket and Princess Leia’s recommend Hoth Snow Gilet. There is an excellent this book to selection of ‘Inspired Apparel’, including others who hats, scarves, mitts, socks and sweaters. enjoy such The Yoda Mitts are strangely appealing colourwork but a challenge to wear unless you are or those in fact a three-fingered 900-year-old Jedi p. 14 SlipKnot 171 Master! The projects in the book are very Switch & Knit Stitch Dictionary: appealing, nicely designed and encompass Choose any yarn and any of the 12 all levels of knitter with a range of different patterns for cowls, hats, sweaters techniques, including cables, colourwork, Tabetha Hedrick. Stackpole double knitting, lace and beading. Projects & more, Books, 2020 Hardback, 200 pages, are marked according to difficulty, with £14.95. ISBN 9780811738262 some being straightforward The title of this book is very misleading. (such as the If you were expecting a stitch dictionary, Chancellor you will be sadly disappointed. It’s hard to Palpatine Scarf, know exactly what the author was trying and the Ewok to achieve here, but I think it’s more of a Hood), to the manual for a beginner to be able to knit more complex from what the author calls recipes. She Rebel Alliance offers a series of recipes to make a cowl- Shawl, a neck jumper, scarf, sleeveless tunic, socks, multicolour lace and beaded shawl, and cardigan, stole, hat, fingerless mitts, cowl, the stranded colourwork of the Wookie tee and shawl. There are charts, tables and diagrams galore, which, if you dislike socks. There are plenty of projects in maths, will put you off. between so there is truly something for everyone. There are some stitch patterns in this book, all for multiples of four stitches, There is a useful list of the yarns used at but they don’t appear until p. 102. There the end of the book, with websites, and a are chapters on finishing techniques and note that the yarn weights used within the special techniques, however, photographs book refer to UK weights. There is a helpful section explaining each of the various techniques used within the book so, if you are looking to learn a new skill, this book both instructs and inspires. This is a really fun book which could keep you knitting for quite some time depending on how many Star Wars fans there are in your tribe! May The Force be with you!

Helen James

SlipKnot 171 p. 15 ...BOOK REVIEWS (CONTINUED) are not the best way to explain these The patterns are divided into three techniques and a series of short videos categories, beginner, very easy and easy. with links might have been better. I would find it difficult to decide which category to put them in as several of the The book is very USA-biased, with easy ones just use basic stocking stitch American conversion charts. The and minimal shaping. All the patterns abbreviations list is incomplete and some use US yarns and there is no guide to of its contents have been put into an index yarn substitution, but there is a chart for of techniques. This book is aimed at the standard yarn weights at the beginning of beginner who is ready to branch out from the book. basic knit stitches. If I’d bought it because of the title, I’d be very disappointed. If I like the large pictures and the fact that you like sticking to rules and recipes, its the book doesn’t go into so much detail fine, but it does not allow for independent that could put off a beginner; my only thought or those who want to do it their caveat is that the size of the pictures has way, or the way they’ve been shown. All in necessitated a small font for the text. But, all, not for me. for someone who has never knitted before, I think this could be a useful guide. Natalie Tidy Rita Taylor Vogue Knitting; the learn to knit book. Sixth & Spring, 2020. Paperback, 144 pages, £20. ISBN 9781640210639 This book is aimed at complete beginners; it contains links to various videos as well as large diagrams of how to cast on and work the various stitches. The illustrations are very clear and usually quite detailed, although I was surprised not to see how to start off on circular or double-pointed needles. There are five chapters, the usual ‘getting started’ with information on the ‘tools of the trade’. There are a few pages of stitch samplers with written instructions but no charts, a short chapter on finishing techniques and then the bulk of the book, 62 pages, is devoted to the patterns. p. 16 SlipKnot 171 Sue Blacker 1951–2021 The Slipknot team was so sad to learn of Sue Blacker’s death in April this year. Sue Blacker made a huge contribution to raising awareness of the qualities of breed- specific yarn, not least through her iconic book, Pure Wool (Bloomsbury, 2012). Sue and Rita (whose patterns feature in the book) had planned to write a new edition for the current range of Blacker yarns – a Sue was an active member of the Guild, plan that would be a fitting tribute to full of knowledge and generous in sharing Sue’s legacy. it. She gave a fascinating talk on the Sue championed British sheep especially, economics of wool at the 2019 Convention farming her own lustrous Gotland flock, and contributed articles and material for and built Blacker Yarns into a distinctive Slipknot (most recently in issues 166 and and much-loved brand. At yarn shows she 169). Sue will be a much-missed member was a charming and welcoming presence of our community and our best wishes go and, as Elspeth remembers, one of those to her family and wide circle of friends. rare people who gave you their full We’re sure many members have memories attention when speaking to you. of Sue they would like to share. Please send any contributions to [email protected] and we will feature them in a future issue.

Denise Cripps, Elspeth May, Lesley O’Connell Edwards, Rita Taylor

SlipKnot 171 p. 17 Highland Threads Denise Cripps reports on a virtual exhibition. The past year has been a time of worry and financial crisis for many businesses, dependent on visitors. Especially true for museums, many have shown wonderful creative energy, putting in place innovative collaborations with their local communities and reaching out through highly imaginative online exhibitions and events. Highland Threads, a collaboration between fourteen museums from across the Highlands, is no exception. This virtual exhibition opened in April 2021 and showcases clothing items through a 360° video presentation of each piece, alongside close-up shots of stitching, pattern and texture, providing an experience close to viewing each This all provides a very rich experience and item in real life. In the museums have also built programmes truth you can look of events around the exhibition: the in more detail and Groam House Museum held a lecture on for longer than you the Rosemarkie Pictish stones and their often manage in a links to illuminated manuscripts, following museum gallery! The up in May with a talk by designer Lucy pieces, which include Hague on translating Pictish key patterns Gairloch stockings, into cable knitting. In April I also happily a fisherman’s participated in the Groam House Celtic gansey, a knitted swimming costume and Knit-along to make a lovely hat designed a jumper designed by George Bain, are by new Guild member Barbara Pritchard, also supported online with interviews, Bain’s Toorie Bunnet (available on Ravelry additional photo galleries and lots more and LoveCrafts) in a beautiful Gotland/ detail on all aspects of the garments. alpaca DK blend from Black Isle Yarns. p. 18 SlipKnot 171 A visit to this Gairloch stockings (Gairloch exhibition is highly Museum) recommended – Gairloch stockings were knitted in a wide and will leave you variety of patterns and colours, some longing to head imitating tartan. A double-diamond design, north to see more known as the Gairloch Pattern, became the of the museums’ favourite. It was applied to waistcoats and collections. other garments, as well as stockings. Jumper designed by George This pattern was developed in the middle Bain (Groam House Museum) of the nineteenth century and was unique George Bain was to Gairloch. Unlike many Scottish estates, an artist and the lairds of Gairloch supported work educator whose schemes for inhabitants during the 1840s instruction potato famine. Knitting was encouraged to manuals provide an income for the women, using wool from local fleeces, home spun and (Celtic Art: The Methods of dyed with local plants. Lady Mackenzie of Gairloch employed an expert in spinning Construction, to instruct them to a higher standard. It for example) has been estimated that the annual value have inspired of the exports from the area was at least countless artists and craftspeople since £500 by the end of the century. Towards their publication in 1945. Bain was the end of the 1800s captivated by intricate Pictish stones, early a national ‘Home medieval illuminated manuscripts and Industry’ Society was ornate metalwork from Britain and Ireland. established. Bain wanted others to able to use his The pattern was methods to create new designs in revived in the 1970s a Celtic style, promoting a uniquely by Becca Macaulay Scottish national art, and stimulating the of Opinan, who was rural economy. known as an expert Bain produced hundreds of designs in a knitter. In 2015, Celtic style, for everything from carpets Gairloch Museums to teapots, and from knitting patterns to published a modern pattern for Gairloch handbags. The woollen jumper above is Pattern Stockings based on stockings in the one of those pieces. collection.

SlipKnot 171 p. 19 SAVE THE DATE! 11–12 Sept • A craft book club session led by Board member Clare Griffel, where Following on from last year’s extremely you can share your favourite and successful online Convention, known as most inspiring hand and machine the UnConvention, we’re running a similar knitting and crochet books with other event this year. members. • Two days of online talks and workshops on a variety of craft topics from a range of speakers, including Guild Patron Lorna Hamilton-Brown, designer Emma Vining and the Guild Collection curatorial team. • Workshops and talks will be a mix of member-only and public events. • The AGM, where you’ll hear directly from the Board and elect new Trustees and Directors. Papers will be sent out Key dates in good time directly to members.* Mid July: Full details of the programme • Free to attend. and how to book will be emailed to members* • Easily accessed online, enabling more of you to attend and participate (from Mid August: Booking closes the comfort of your own home!). Late August/Early September: Handouts • Also featuring social activities for and details of any preparatory work all members to join on Friday and required for workshops will be emailed Saturday nights. to attendees* • An opportunity for members to share 11 September: AGM held their favourite and recent projects 11–12 September: UnConvention held in our show and tell, facilitated by * Members without email will receive Guild Chair, Janet Collins. This event UnConvention and AGM documents in promises to be a wonderful insight the post. into the breadth of workmanship and skill of members. p. 20 SlipKnot 171 Programme Highlights An overview of pattern leaflets in the and books to either add to your library or Knitting & Crochet Guild Collection with take off your shelves for a refresher. Publications Curator Barbara Smith. Join Guild Textile Archivist Angharad A preview of designer Emma Vining’s Thomas for a show and tell of lace forthcoming book, A Knitter’s Guide to samplers from the Collection, followed Shawl Design, where Emma encourages by a workshop using vintage lace knitting knitters to explore and experiment with cards for participants to explore various shawl shapes and stitch patterns. lace stitches. Choice of stitch, needle size and yarn will be personal and the various An insight into Bohus Knitting, a project effects considered. that started in the 1930s to create job opportunities for the women of Bohuslän An overview and demonstration of the in Sweden. This talk from Collection techniques and methods of natural yarn volunteer Maureen Wheeler will include a dyeing, and the vibrant colours that can be short history of this fascinating project, an achieved through dyeing British wool yarn opportunity to study some of the Bohus with responsibly foraged, home-grown items held in the Knitting & Crochet Guild plants and food waste with Ria Burns. Collection and a pattern to try out the Learn different knitted cast-ons from technique. tubular to temporary, to two-colour and An introduction to machine knittingwith methods suitable for toe-up socks, plus Ria Burns, equipping you with the skills to a smaller number of cast-off techniques begin your own machine knitting journey from Rachel Lemon. (and you don’t need a knitting machine to A look at how different attend!). colour changes can give Learn how to use crochet to make pictures a completely new look and 3D models. This session with Anne to crocheted granny Flanagan will focus on making pictures. squares with Anne Flanagan. A broad look at differentknitting traditions from Nordic and other cold countries with Rachel Lemon. There will be sheep, slippers and stars, alongside a bit of history

SlipKnot 171 p. 21 Branch Reports Compiled by Anne Scahill.

Bath Currently, our attention is being given to sorting a large donation (eight bulging black The Bath branch has continued its Zoom sacks!) of yarn, patterns, unfinished items, meetings on the second Saturday of the needles and notions. month at 10 am. We discuss work in progress, pass on tips for patterns, yarn By the time this is in print, summer and, I shops, online workshops, good books and hope, happier times will be here. Netflix series! If you’d like to join us – no Helen Nulty need to be local, we’ve welcomed visitors from far and wide – keep an eye on the Guild Birmingham Facebook page where Zoom link details In January I gave a talk on Estonian knitting are posted each month. And we are just – similar to the one recorded for the 2020 beginning to think about the possibility of Convention but with added pictures. In returning to face-to-face meetings... February Sue Cleaver explained crochet Clare Griffel charts to us, and provided a Crochet Heart pattern to practice on, given our meeting Bedfordshire was so close to Valentine’s Day. Some had made this in advance and some did it during Our Zoom meetings continue and members the meeting. Sue, as ever, was clear in her from other branches have joined in. Advice explanations and her answers to queries. and help with projects is being maintained In March Barbara Smith joined us from albeit virtually. Many of our members are Huddersfield to talk about the Miss Silver making hats, jumpers and other garments murder mysteries by Patricia Wentworth. for homeless persons and refugees. These The author was obviously as skilled a knitter activities prove to be doubly beneficial in as her invention, as the books contained that they are also an excellent way of using descriptions of knitting style (continental), up stashes. coupons during WWII, and progress made on As we look forward with anticipation to being her projects (so conveniently finished just as able to venture out, it is a waiting game as to the book ended). We very much enjoyed her whether – and how – our groups will reform. talk. In addition, at all meetings we had our Our Regional Day, usually in May has been usual show-and-tell where everyone shares put back to 2 October with the plan being something, whether a work-in-progress to have a real live one! More information or finished article. We all make impressed will be available on the Guild website events or sympathetic noises, depending on the page in due course. success or amount of fiddliness! p. 22 SlipKnot 171 We are looking forward provisionally to beautiful rhubarb tart and I made a small gathering again in person in August at a new tartlet version from his pattern. One set of site – St Martins in the Bullring. This is still charts is for the whole alphabet in Gothic Birmingham city centre, which makes either lettering. This is not the easiest style to chart bus or train travel convenient and is still the in double filet crochet, but Hilary Denny did third Saturday in the month. it and made a blanket. A pretty bag, featuring a medieval motif, was designed and made by Rachel Lemon Rose Bowers. Bromley For the workshop part of our gathering we After meeting on Zoom every month since were split into smaller breakout rooms on the summer, a few of us got together in Zoom. We chose which project to work on Queens Park in May – it was great to see and we caught up on our news. As always, people face to face again! the hours just flew by. One of the topics of conversation was our residential workshop at Belsey Bridge, which is normally held in August. This year it will be in October with 11 different workshops in various crafts. It is very popular, so there are only a few places left. After a year of virtual meetings and staying at home, that is not surprising. We cannot wait! Do come along to a real workshop in Ilford, when we are free of lockdown restrictions – you will be very welcome. The group’s details East London are on the Guild website. We had a meeting and workshop by Zoom on Dianne Chan the first Saturday in March. This year’s theme is ‘Back to the Future’ and this workshop was dedicated to ‘Textiles – ancient to medieval’. Our expert members had taken inspiration from ancient textiles to design double filet crochet patterns. The motifs lend themselves to our charts and have provided us with plenty to do until summer. We were spoilt for choice from the beautiful selection – the photos show just a few. One favourite of mine is not based on a textile at all: Michael Mann found his inspiration in a rather SlipKnot 171 p. 23 Branch Reports Milton Keynes/Braunston continued Crochet Group After getting bombarded by requests for Huddersfield introductory tutorials, we decided to launch our ‘total beginner learn to crochet’ sessions Our January meeting, when for the past on Meetup.com delivered by Zoom. The few years we have had a quiz, was this sessions run over four weeks and introduce year postponed until February. Marie the basics of crochet to help people get and Jen adapted the quiz for Zoom, and grounded in the essential techniques and set the questions. In March, we started a learn to read a pattern/chart. We just ‘WIPaholics Anonymous’ programme, to finished our first round and have some new help those of us who have difficulty finishing happy crochet-lovers added to the Knitting projects (based of course on the Alcoholics & Crochet Guild family! An introduction to Anonymous programme, not altogether Tunisian crochet was also planned for April. seriously). Our show-and-tell session uncovered some projects that had been In our general group, we have learnt lots languishing for a long time – sometimes of new techniques and applied them to because they weren’t turning out as well as patterns to test our new skills. We have we hoped, or sometimes just because it is so learnt the basics of plaid and mosaic and much more exciting to start a new project. In made some lovely book covers (these the next months we will, we hope, learn to make fantastic gifts). We had a go at manage our projects better, or at least will be crochet earrings (fiddly but fun on a able to finish some of our WIPs! 1.2mm hook!) and made an Easter wreath/ table centrepiece ready for our tables on Barbara Smith Easter Sunday. Merseyside It has been tough organising everything Whilst the post-Christmas lockdown was over Zoom (especially when people are new tough and drained motivation from many to it), but we have come on a lot. We are of us, our branch meetings helped keep me getting better at planning and writing out going. My day was brightened up hearing demo sheets to use to take the stress out of presenting. We have also been creating from everyone and sharing our creative learning materials using Canva.com to share ideas and inspirations. Our fortnightly Zoom after sessions with participants. meetings have continued and I am thrilled that a few new ladies have joined us this Online classes are great, but we are all year, which has added even more interesting looking forward to meeting up in person things to talk about and projects to share. after the summer, as there is nothing like Stay safe and happy stitching, everyone. crochet, chat and coffee with friends!

Marianne Penny Gill Jeffery

p. 24 SlipKnot 171 Mapperley Knit & Natter – Oxford Nottinghamshire We were privileged in February to have We’ve been unable to meet in person since a sneak preview of the research Leslie March of last year, but since the autumn, O’Connell Edwards and Angharad Thomas those who normally attend our meetings are undertaking into knitted ecclesiastical have been meeting by Zoom at our usual gloves. For Leslie this has meant charting meeting times instead. The meetings are intricate patterns, working on 1.5mm fairly short and are mainly Show & Tell. It’s needles. The gloves were commissioned good to see those who are able to connect for bishops and the higher echelons of the in this way, but we’re really looking forward clergy. This was a fascinating session and to getting back together in person as soon as highlighted Leslie as the skilled knitter we we are allowed to, and the venue reopens. know she is. The following month Jacky Ridgill instructed Alison Peck us in double knitting via wizard technology, Norfolk Branch some borrowed from her son. It was a useful session with a simple pattern to experiment Members of the Norfolk Group are much with. We marvel at her expertise. looking forward to meeting up before too long. Our meeting room in the WI Federation The Zoom meetings have proved increasingly House in Norwich is reserved for our use in popular and have enabled us to reach out the future. to members who would only occasionally, if ever, be able to attend in person. Although We are continuing to keep in touch through lockdown is easing, we have decided to newsletters sharing our current projects, postpone the planned Regional Open Day in although our creativity seems to have July to 2022. Instead our meeting on 3 July diminished lately. Once meeting in person will be a super Show and Tell combined with again, however, we shall enjoy sharing a virtual strawberry cream tea. What is not our work in actuality as well as renewing to like? friendships formed over the years. Details will be posted on the website. Rosemary Brown Meanwhile, enjoy the freedom we have North Norfolk Knitters been granted. North Norfolk Knitters hope to be able to Jane Barton start up again in June if we can find a venue. Rossendale Lancashire (Weir) Rita Taylor Since our last report we have continued to meet on Zoom every Wednesday morning and on the last Thursday of each month in the evening for Knit and Sip.

SlipKnot 171 p. 25 scarves to stretch the equivalent length Branch Reports of the Cumbria Way, to be donated to the continued homeless in Cumbria and elsewhere.

Over the past year during lockdown we At our March Zoom session we held a soup have maintained many of our ongoing group social lunch to support the work of the M3 projects including: project, a specialist charity in East Lancashire that provides help to single young people. • Traffic Light baby hats for Oldham Hospital’s Neonatal Unit. These colour- In order to maintain contact with our ‘hard coded hats are a great visual aid for the to reach’ members we produced and posted midwifery and neonatal teams to easily out a paper newsletter, meaning that identify babies that may need a little members who were unable to access our more help or care within the first few Facebook page were kept up to date with hours. what the group was doing. • Angel baby outfits for infants that pass We love nothing better than an opportunity away during pregnancy or soon after to celebrate and, although our activities have birth, also for Oldham hospital. been curtailed somewhat, we have become quite good at continuing to participate in • Trauma teddies for the local Fire Service. socially distanced group projects. We have They are given to children in need of all enjoyed this as it has given us something comfort, when they have suffered a to get our teeth into and has proved that traumatic experience such as being we can work well with each other even if involved in a car crash or a fire. it is only remotely. We were able to mark • Blankets for the homeless. Christmas with a ‘Random Act of Kindness’ drop of tiny Christmas-themed people • Clothing and blankets for ‘Fish and Chip all ready to hang on Christmas trees and Babies’ in the poorest part of Africa Valentine’s Day by leaving lots of little hearts who would otherwise be wrapped in around for people to find. We also ‘Heart newspaper, hence the name. Bombed’ the village. For Easter we plan to In addition we have made another video dress a number of trees with knitted and which can be viewed on YouTube (search crocheted eggs, bunny rabbits, and chickens on ‘Weir Knit and Natter’) and co-hosted hoping to raise spirits after a whole year a knitting and crochet event, via Zoom, of lockdown. for a ‘Wellbeing at the Whittaker’ event in Glynis Page January. A good number of members have signed up to the Cumbria Way Homeless Scarf Challenge 2021 to knit or crochet enough

p. 26 SlipKnot 171 South West London Did you What a year it has been for us all! The branch last met in February 2020, over a year know? ago, little realising that it would be the last Compiled by Lesley O’Connell physical meeting of the year. Since then, I Edwards. have sent out a monthly ‘Keeping in Touch’ The latest issue of the Archaeological email to the branch members, with photos of Textiles Review came out in February our makes, and snippets relating to knitting 2021, and has four items on knitting. and crochet gleaned from the media. When Lockdown 1 eased, some members met up Sylvie Odstrčilová writes about gloves in Kingston but others were shielding and found in the tombs of 18th-century staying safe. Karen kindly offered to host free abbesses in Prague. Christine Carnie’s Zoom meetings for the branch and we have report on the Texel stockings conference met monthly online since July. Tracey and held in Leiden in 2019 includes Penny have also hosted meetings. It has been photographs of the recreations of these. a great way to get to know each other better. Lisa Little writes about the Heritage We have talked about our favourite patterns, gansey knitting network project, including books and yarn shows, had ‘show and tells’, details of the bequest of Michael Harvey’s and supported each other from the comfort researches to Sheringham Museum, of our homes. Stashes have been used up, and a discussion of ganseys. Finally, and members have supported a number of there is a paper on the ‘Holy hands’ charitable causes. project of Angharad Thomas and Lesley We shall continue to meet on Zoom for the O’Connell Edwards, which examines foreseeable future. I may even master the knitted liturgical (aka bishop’s) gloves. ability to schedule a meeting for the branch. The issue can be downloaded from www. Mary Gordon atnfriends.com (click on ‘Download issue’) – or a printed copy can be ordered from the University of Copenhagen web shop. In late March 2021 ChiaoGoo reported that their Red and Blue Shorties sets were being counterfeited, and advised potential purchasers to buy only from reputable dealers, such as local yarn stores or specialist online needlework sites.

SlipKnot 171 p. 27 Using wire on your knitting machine Erica Thomson conjures intricate realised that, in order to create something jewellery from wire. of enough substance, I would need several strands of fine wire (0.2mm) together, just I began playing with knitting like using industrial knitting yarn. I found the with wire on my knitting optimum number of strands was four, knitted machine over 20 years ago, at stitch size 6 or 7 which would create a but the choice of colours substantial piece that would stand up to and types of wire were handling and could limited. I used a Brother be manipulated to 710, a machine I still use form interesting today, but you can use any standard gauge shapes. machine with a metal bed. I made myself some earrings and did much experimenting Enamelled copper to see the limitations. wire now comes in I found that although I over 30 colours and could thread the wire is available on 175m reels. You can have a through the tension mast lot of fun combining colours which do blend as usual, wire behaves together like paint, yet on closer inspection very differently to yarn marble together and you need to treat it maintaining the original with respect! colours. I often use thread or fine yarn to mix and I use enamelled copper wire, though it needs change the colour. I like to to be quite fine to work on blend colours to match my the machine safely. Too fine clothes. a gauge breaks when knitting and too heavy is difficult or I also use a plastic-coated, silver-plated impossible on the machine. At copper wire which is made for the aircraft the time, I was concerned that industry and is perfect for making jewellery, I may damage my machine, though sadly it is now only available in but I can honestly say I have never had any limited colours. It is soft and can be used just problems. As I was interested in making like 4-ply yarn and knitted at stitch size 6 or 7 jewellery – mainly earrings at that stage, I very easily. p. 28 SlipKnot 171 After making sure that the wire can unwind and fun to make and you’ll end up with easily, thread the wires through the tension something to wear rather than just another mast as you would with yarn. Always cast on practice piece. Unlike knitting with yarn, the with waste yarn and add weights. Certainly stitches do not run, nor does your machine the carriage is harder to push than when get covered in lint from yarn, and no tension knitting with yarn but, once you get the feel square is required! You can use the most of it, it’s easy. Knit, with a regular rhythm to basic of knitting machines and, if you don’t achieve a neat result and cast off as usual or already have one, they are readily available with waste yarn. secondhand these days and sometimes even Knitting stocking stitch with wire produces a just for the asking. stiff piece, however knitting in one direction Both types of wire can be hand knitted or and slipping the other as in knitting i-cord, crocheted, but do experiment with wire creates an almost fluid result, perfect for thicknesses and numbers of strands until you bracelets and necklaces. find the best combination that works for you. Begin by knitting something small like I hope I have inspired and tempted you to try earrings, a pendant or a brooch, then knitting wire on your machine. progress to small items like purses, pots and bowls once you feel more comfortable. To find out more, you can view the YouTube Once you have finished the knitting, you video which I produced for last year’s can titivate your work by using the tip of UnConvention and visit my website a sewing or hand knitting needle – poke www.erica.co.uk. through the knitting to emphasise the loops. To turn it into jewellery, simply add findings, either stitched or glued on. I began to work on other patterns – ‘Scrumpleknit’ and ‘Scribble’ earrings, later followed by 3D and organic jewellery. Use these designs as a starting point to design your own pieces. I tend to make jewellery, as it is quick, easy

SlipKnot 171 p. 29 equivalent of short-row shaping. A mental picture of a jumper was developing! Shared aims To achieve this each lozenge is knitted By hand or machine, Patricia individually in turn, horizontally. This gives Scott reminds us of our a wavy effect to the top and bottom of common goals. the knitting so for the jumper a second block of lozenges is knitted above the first, Having been a member of the Guild of ensuring each of the second block is placed Machine Knitters for many years and the between each of those in the first block. One Knitting & Crochet Guild for a few, the of my clever friends told me this is called merger of the two guilds seemed quite ‘tessellation’ and so the jumper now had a natural to me. After all members of both use name. The hem and cuffs are hand knitted in their expertise with the same aims in mind a twisted rib. – it’s just that techniques differ according to the number of needles used in the knitting The April issue of the Guild magazine, Across process! the Needlebed, has a chart illustrating the 26-row, 40-stitch pattern (which can be hand One aim is to make beautiful, wearable knitted too) and which may be of interest to knitwear – a key factor of which is to decide members and perhaps even a starting point the most appropriate techniques and for further development. resources. Stitch definition, yarn qualities, range of colour, monochrome, construction Which brings me back to the main aim of this of shape and size require consideration. contribution to Slipknot. Making these decisions will be the same The amalgamation of the two knitting guilds whether creating for hand or machine provides a huge body of knowledge and knitting and often, in my experience, experience. It is my hope that we can learn interchanging between the two for achieving much from each other and perhaps projects different effects within the same garment. like this, which combine hand- and machine- knitting techniques, might encourage us The idea for my latest ‘creation’, was picked to share and value our complementary up from an old American magazine – a skills, yet continue to reflect on the unique photograph of a hand-knitted garter-stitch characteristics that each discipline brings. scarf using short-row shaping. The resulting continuous rows of ‘lozenge’ shapes in a variety of colours flipped my mind to the collection of colourful leftover bits of yarn that I needed to transform. After some experimentation on my chunky knitting machine, the garter-stitch lozenge became a stocking stitch one using ‘hold position’, which is the machine-knitted p. 30 SlipKnot 171 V-stitch sides V-stitch mini Change to 2nd colour and begin V-Stitch. Work in separate rounds. Make sure the shopping bag number of stitches is divisible by 3. (Increase Sally Magill’s pattern for a or decrease a st if necessary.) useful crocheted bag is sure Begin: Ch4 (= 1tr 1ch), 1tr in same st, (miss to please. 2dc, 1tr 1ch 1tr in next) all round, finish with ss in 3rd ch using new colour. Ss in 1ch space. I designed this bag (5” x 4”) for a workshop Each round: Ch4, 1tr in 1ch space, 1tr 1ch 1tr at the Birmingham Branch in May 2020. It (= V-stitch) in next 1ch space, all round. was cancelled because of Covid-19, and now Finish with ss in 3rd ch using new colour, ss John Lewis has closed so we have also lost in space. our lovely venue! The idea was that, being For this version, change colours every row, small, the bag could be completed on the thus highlighting the zigzag of the V-Stitch. day. It could be a trial run for other bags of There is no need to cut ends: simply drop the different sizes. The pattern is straightforward current colour, bring up the previous colour and easy to adjust. carefully, and carry on. Materials: 4-ply cotton in two Top of bag colours and a size 3.00mm hook (or use other yarn and Change colour and switch to hook to match). dc. Work (1dc over V-st, 2dc over next V-st) all round. Overview Then continue for several Base – chain the width of the rounds, 1dc in each st, bag, then dc round and round working spirally. in a spiral. Handles (see photo) Sides – V-stitch (1tr 1ch 1tr) Working from side in dc, worked in rounds. make a handle of about 15ch Top – several rows of dc worked spirally. at the centre, skipping about 12dc, then Handles – chains and a final round of dc. dc round to other side, and make another handle to match, and dc to end of round. (I Instructions did 2dc in last st before chain, and in first st Note: dc is worked in back loops throughout. of following dc, to give more ease.) Base: Ch29, dc in 2nd ch from hook, dc to Finish with a full round of dc, working into end of row. Do 3dc in last st, turn and dc chs of handles. Ss to finish. along the other side of the chain, working *For more capacity you can widen the base into the spare loops of the ch sts, 3dc in last by working a couple of extra rows with 2dc st. Ss to 1st stitch.* into alternate sts a couple of times around Begin sides: Do several rounds of dc, working each end. Work these symmetrically, and continuously in a spiral. then continue with pattern.

SlipKnot 171 p. 31 Your memories of Patricia Roberts Elspeth May’s article about the jumper. I checked the dye lots; they Patricia Roberts in the last issue were all the same. To this day I do not of Slipknot (170), prompted know what had happened and why I a wonderful response. Many hadn’t spotted this earlier. Heartbroken, thanks for sending such moving I packed the jumper away with lots of – and interesting – tributes to lavender bags. Out of sight, out of mind. this influential designer. I looked at it again a decade later and I started knitting the Brownie jumper in unpicked the offending sleeve and 1982 and I’m still knitting it – it’s a long unravelled the yarn. I dithered about story. I bought the yarn from the Covent what to do and in the end decided to Garden shop in 1982. The pattern is source a Shetland yarn as close as possible challenging with lots of bobbles, cables to Woolly Bear yarn shade 202, dye lot and crossed stitches. I was never a great 22091. So far, as might be expected, fan of the mohair intarsia designs, but I’ve had no luck in matching the yarns. I just loved the texture and patterns of then decided I would go for the closest this design. I really enjoyed knitting it. To match and knit up with the yarn from the me, it was stylish and hip and far more remaining sleeve, alternating rows with interesting than the run-of-the-mill Aran each colour. patterns available at the time. I finished It was a good job I had left one sleeve the jumper in the early nineties. I tried it intact as it took me ages to work out the on: disaster! One sleeve was noticeably arrangement of patterns for the sleeve. I lighter in colour wrote out the 28 rows repeat by hand and than the rest of checked against the sleeve to ensure I was following the pattern. This was challenging: the typeface and print for the pattern is dense and difficult to read and my eyesight is not what it was. I also have a feeling I was a ‘better knitter’ all those years ago but I soldiered on, muscle memory from the past slowly kicking into action. So back to a few more experiments with p. 32 SlipKnot 171 yarn combinations. It’s helpful to knit the treat to see the end product of a process samples as I can double-check the pattern I’d played a small part in. and develop muscle memory in my fingers. Jayne Hayward I have recently discovered a way to knit bobbles without turning – this will speed up the re-knitting as there are a lot of bobbles, including the ‘bunch of grapes’ motif in Brownie. It will be finished one day. Watch this space!

Gill Baker I was saddened to hear of the passing of Patricia Roberts. Back in 1983/4 (I think it was) as a youngster in my early 20s, between jobs and in need of a little cash, I replied to an ad in our local paper for home knitters. There were no details I knitted these two sweaters (Romany and regarding who it was for but I replied Scrabble) in the early 1980s. I was always anyway and, after supplying a test swatch cavalier about yarn choices, never taking of the Bunch of Grapes pattern, I became any notice of yarn recommendations a home knitter for Patricia. Over the but vaguely sticking to the tension and following months I knitted several versions approximate yarn weight. I knitted these of the Romany design; waistcoats, hip- and in cotton yarn, which is why I think they waist-length sweaters and cardigans with survived so long. short and long sleeves, worked in beautiful pastels of 100% cotton and jewel-bright Jennifer Freestone mohairs. It was such an intricate design (I have vivid memories of 20 plus little balls Elspeth adds that for Scrabble, as well as of yarn dangling at the back of my work!), cotton, the suggested yarns were Shetland always with something new to keep my or even silk. For the cardigan version, pure attention and I never tired of making it. It cashmere is suggested. She doubts she was very much a case of ‘just a few more would have been able to wear a pure silk rows to see what this looks like’! or cashmere version – they would have Sometime after I finished home knitting been just too luxurious! for Patricia, I had the opportunity to visit her store in Covent Garden. It was a riot of colour and fabulous garments and such a

SlipKnot 171 p. 33 delicate position. Having quite a large bust, I got tired of the comments and remember throwing the jumper out. The other jumpers and jackets are long since gone, but I still have the grapes and cherries (Fruit Machine) jumper which I can’t bear to part with. I loved the intricate designs and the challenges of knitting them. I don’t think there has been anyone who has exceeded her brilliance.

Oksana Holbrook In the late 70s I worked in Peter Jones, quite near to Patricia Roberts’ shop, and often visited it. I made several of her patterns, which I loved – at the time I despised the 1970s patterns more generally available, though now I feel a I was – and still am – an avid admirer of sneaking nostalgic fondness for some of Patricia Roberts’ work. When I had my them! knitwear business, I would frequently go I have included some of the Patricia to the Kinnerton Street shop to stock up. I Roberts things I made on my Ravelry still have all her books and magazines and page,* though I know there were other am halfway through one of her jackets at things which have presumably disappeared the moment. I know I still have several during the intervening decades. I have kits and yarn somewhere in my huge stash made a lot of items from vintage patterns, and I remember going into a charity shop and always share the ones from British a couple of years ago and finding some patterns with the KCL group on Ravelry. bright red Woollybear Shetland yarn. I was so excited that I think the shop assistant Sarah Walpole thought I was a little deranged! *Sarah’s Ravelry name is knichet and her I remember knitting the Allsorts jumper Patricia Roberts knits are at but was dismayed when the pink circular https://www.ravelry.com/projects/ licorice allsorts were placed in rather a knichet?set=patricia-roberts.

p. 34 SlipKnot 171 I first met Patricia on a knitting week at desire for wool can be overwhelmingly ‘Les Soeurs Anglaises’, a most beautiful strong! retreat in the Dordogne. I had never Patricia’s patterns remain an absolute considered a ‘knitting holiday’ but I was inspiration and are totally wearable forty such a fan of Patricia’s work that I decided years later. She has a dedicated group to pack up my needles and go. I met two on Ravelry where your readers can see lovely ladies from Melbourne that first a wonderful collection of some of her year and we all returned the following year pieces: https://www.ravelry.com/groups/ where we met another group of Patricia’s patricia-roberts. fans. We have remained friends ever since and have met up each year in various Patricia was totally instrumental in making locations including Edinburgh, Harrogate hand knits a fashion statement and her and Stockholm. We were due to meet in knitting books from that era took the craft Venice last year for our annual knitting to a totally new level. An amazing lady and break but Covid intervened. I feel absolutely privileged to have met her. Our ‘fan’ group met with Patricia and her Sue Rutherford husband, John, for a final lunch before she closed her shop. Afterwards, we also purchased as much as we could from the shop before it closed its doors! I purchased 200 Club Winners one of her ‘Grapes and Cherries’ cardigan The winners of the March draw were: for £650 – the most I have ever, ever spent • Avis Boreham (Welwyn) on a piece of knitwear but I knew that I would never knit the extensive intarsia • Clare Blythe (Lincolnshire) pattern in angora and I felt that I was • Barbara Fielding (Stoke-on-Trent) buying a piece of knitting history. Well, • Anne Flanagan (New Milton) that was my excuse! • Beverly Huish (Caerphilly). In fact, the desire to continue Patricia’s Each wins £20. legacy was the inspiration for me setting All members are eligible to join. If you up ‘The Knitter’s Yarn’ three years ago. I are interested, please contact Judy Jones, wanted to be able to purchase the same Canalside Farm, off Hobb Lane, Moore, beautiful lambswool in the 3- and 4-ply Warrington, Cheshire WA4 5QT. Tel:01925 weights used by Patricia’s patterns. Setting 740386; email: [email protected]. up a new business in my mid 60s had not Each share costs £10 a year. been at the forefront of my mind but the

SlipKnot 171 p. 35 Visual design approaches on machines Lynn Shapiro introduces Anne Lavene’s unique design approach. To be honest, whenever I’ve thought of knitting it conjures up memories of the rather shapeless hand-knitted jumpers my mother made me as I was growing up during the 1950s and 60s. But a chance meeting in 2015 with Anne Lavene, founder of the House of Lavene and home- machine-knitting.co.uk, dispelled this myth and I was introduced to the dazzling world of machine-knitted fashion. Anne was bringing her knitwear fashion house, the House of Lavene, online and I am a creative content producer for websites. She had released the copyright on some of her unique visual patterns and these were downloadable for people drawn in the same way as who wanted to recreate the a dress pattern: a visual House of Lavene look on representation of the garment, their own knitting machines showing the shape rather than at home. rows upon rows of text. This is a revolutionary approach to I say unique visual patterns knitting-machine patterns and for good reason. Machine- Anne wanted me to produce a knitting patterns are series of online video tutorials usually text-based and what makes illustrating her visionary idea. Anne’s patterns unique is that they are

p. 36 SlipKnot 171 With her down-to-earth approach and changes in the pattern. There are also chatty style, Anne demystifies the idea instructions on the type of yarn and that machine knitting is expensive to set recommended weight to use and how up or complicated to do. Casting on and to measure yourself for your individual casting off, increasing and decreasing sizing. All the designs are crochet-finished, rows, creating shorted rows (also known giving them a distinctive, hand-crafted as godets), markers, tension and hold, look. Online video tutorials have added and guides to the ‘slip & loop’ pattern a new dimension to the portfolio with are all covered. Plus, Anne is a mine of users across the world. There are also information with lots of practical tips, from introductory videos on YouTube and Anne how to find inexpensive knitting machines keeps in touch with an active community to adding up bespoke design features to of machine knitters through Facebook and create your own stylised look. Instagram. Anne’s great passion is to pass her And that’s how I discovered exactly how knowledge on to people interested in amazingly creative and fun machine making their own clothes, whether they knitting can be! Find out more at www. are experienced machine knitters, hand houseoflavene.co.uk. knitters contemplating the jump from hand to machine, or total newcomers. In Contributions to pre-internet days she had her own textile Slipknot centre in Norwich and when customers Slipknot is your magazine, saw her finished garments on display and contributions from they often wanted to learn how to make all members of the Guild them but didn’t believe that they could. are very welcome. The Someone who could hand knit or crochet a Editors are always happy bit would look at Anne’s designs and say, ‘I to discuss ideas, advise and support, could never make anything like that!’ And so don’t hesitate to send items at any Anne’s reply was always the same: ‘Yes, time. A page is approximately 360 you can!’ words; the maximum limit for an article The House of Lavene visual patterns are is 720 words. Please send text files as very clear and easy to read. Each pattern a Word document and illustrations as comes in a downloadable PDF creative a separate file; if this isn’t practical, portfolio. This includes a printable visual then contact the Editors to arrange an knitting diagram together with a key alternative. diagram to the symbols used to denote

SlipKnot 171 p. 37 Patterning on a knitting machine Liz Holness continues her handy guide. In my article about buying a knitting machine Punchcard and electronic knitting machines (Slipknot 170) I mentioned that you would are still being produced today by Silver Reed. need to decide whether patterning was The punchcard has changed little but the important to you and asked how much you electronics have been further developed, so were likely want to pattern. In this article I new machines now require connection to will cover Japanese-style machines. a PC and appropriate software to pattern. Firstly, whatever patterning system you You can knit on both types of machine with choose, it only puts a design on the knitting. manual patterning. It does not shape your knitting. You will be working increases and decreases by hand. There are also various ‘rules’ that apply just as you have ‘rules’ in hand knitting (and crochet). Patterning options can be broken down into roughly four categories: manual patterning, pushbutton, punchcard and electronic. All knitting machines are capable of producing patterns manually, by hand selection and hand-tooling techniques, such What stitch patterns can be produced? as cables, twisted and transfer stitch patterns Fair Isle, slip, tuck, lace and weaving (laying as well as some colourwork. This is worked in) are the most common. You can also do by selecting needles according to the design variations on these such as tuck lace and and often laying the yarn over the needles combine two or more stitch structures in the rather than through the yarn mast. This same design. The punchcards/electronics tell applies to vintage and antique machines as well as modern machines such as the Silver the needles which position to go to. Settings Reed LK150. on the carriage dictate which route the needles take as the carriage passes along the Machines with push buttons and a lever needlebed, and either knit all stitches, knit in to select needles is an early method of a second colour for Fair Isle, catch the yarn patterning. It was followed by punch cards but not knit it (tuck), or miss the needle and based on the Jacquard holes-and-blanks go under it (slip and weaving). Lace is made system used in weaving. These were followed by transferring stitches to adjacent needles. by electronic patterning as computer technology developed, but it is still based on Are the stitch patterns relevant to today the Jacquard principle. and can they be tweaked? Yes and yes, but p. 38 SlipKnot 171 it does depend on the machine and its Which would I recommend? patterning capability. An impossible question to answer Are pre-owned machines as it depends on what you are reliable? Often yes, but a lot can aiming to knit and depend on how they have been how much you are into treated, where they have been ‘technology’. So much kept, how they have been depends on you, your maintained and when they interests and preferences. were last used – a bit like Availability and price can buying a second hand car! influence your purchasing choices too. Can machines be repaired and are spares available? Most mechanical What is an emulator? Now repairs can be carried out. The that will have to be left for electronics can be more difficult another article (written as they can be considered by someone else who outdated technology and knows more about it than components, but often I do), but you could take they are repairable. A lot a look at the video Sally depends on what has gone Kentfield made for the Un- wrong and who is carrying Convention in 2020 (https:// out the repair. www.youtube.com/watch?v= What are the risks? Exactly the B7qCAj1V82Q&feature=youtu. same as buying anything else that be). is pre-owned. You can reduce If you want to know the risk by seeing the machine more about what a working beforehand, but that knitting machine is doesn’t guarantee how long it capable of, you might will work. Ask questions and find it useful to look at the do your homework before Guild publication Across the you buy. Needlebed, and also other Should I buy a pre-owned electronic machine knitting videos made machine? Maybe. It won’t be ‘plug in and for the UnConvention. You can knit’: you will need to go through a learning also use the Guild website’s ‘Contact us’ period first. page to ask further questions. SlipKnot 171 p. 39 Type Pushbuttons • Pattern repeat can be any number of rows long. (4 or 8 • Stitch pattern repeat must be equal to or divisible by the number of buttons. buttons) • Buttons are pressed and a selection lever moved for each row of knitting. Punchcard • Pattern repeat can be any number of rows long. • Stitch pattern repeat must be equal to or divisible by 24 on most machines. (Some models use 12, 18 or 30 stitch or other repeats.) • Punch cards can often be flipped, rotated and made double length but not double width. • You can punch your own cards from hundreds (maybe thousands) of designs available in books, magazines and on the internet and your own designs. Electronic • Designs don’t have the same constraints as punchcards. (They vary by model and there is a maximum amount of data that can be input.) • Patterns can be flipped, rotated and made double length and width as well as reversed (positive/negative) for pattern variations. Part of the pattern can be isolated to create new patterns. • The input of your own patterns is achieved either by Mylar sheets or positive/ negative buttons. • Some machines have the option to use cartridges for additional patterns and for storage of your own patterns. • The purchase of accessories/add-ons may be required. The Guild on social media Desiree Jeans encourages us to follow the Guild online. Do you know that you can keep up to date about general knitting and crochet goings on with Knitting & Crochet Guild activities in as well as Knitting & Crochet Guild-specific between editions of Slipknot? Like and follow items, then you’ll like our Twitter feed. For the Knitting & Crochet Guild on Facebook, conversations about knitting and crochet and Twitter, Instagram and LinkedIn to find out to share your work, join our Facebook group about branches, the Convention and other or find us on Ravelry. events, the Collection, our publications, Every time you like or share a post, volunteering opportunities and more. you’re also helping us to engage a bigger To keep each social media platform audience with our news and to attract new interesting and relevant to you, we share members too. slightly different things on each site. If you only want to know about Knitting & Crochet Guild activities, then Facebook and Instagram are for you. If you’d like to know

Issue 171 June 2021 p. 40 SlipKnot 171