Sonia Rykiel 1930-2016 for More, See Pages 4,5And 6
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DAILY EDITION 26 AUGUST 2016 1 Fashion. Beauty. Business. One of Paris’ most influential designers of the 20th century, Sonia Rykiel died Thursday at the age of 86. With her signature shock of frizzy red hair and magnetic personality, Rykiel thrived on her own terms. Reflecting on her career a few years ago, she told WWD: “Since I didn’t know anything, I did everything I wanted. I didn’t listen to anyone. I was so violent, so authoritarian, only listening to what I wanted and myself. People loved me or hated me. Those who loved me, loved me a lot. The others, I didn’t bother with them very much.” Here, the designer Sonia Rykiel photographed by WWD in Paris in 1978. 1930-2016 For more, see pages 4, 5 and 6. Photograph by Guy Marineau/WWD Archive by Photograph 12 26 AUGUST 2016 The Harrods Richard Found on Design restaurant. And Retail Projects WWD sat down with the director to talk about his latest projects. Launched in 2007, Richard bought last time you walked into Found's London-based ar- Richard Found a store, and what should buy this chitectural design practice time — so it’s more of an interactive is headquartered in SoHo. experience. My personal thoughts Found's clients range from retail, are that there’s a challenge having commercial and residential this interactive element without it and include Alice Temperley, being too gimmicky or passé. For Anya Hindmarch, Donna Karan, instance, a couple of our competi- love going to the Gagosian Gallery WWD: Can you tell us about Givenchy and Tiffany & Co. and tors design these mirrors that ask and I go to Chelsea in New York to some upcoming projects and retailers such as Harrods, Har- if you want a cup of coffee or not look at the galleries whenever I’m plans? vey Nichols and Selfridges. His when you tap on them. There’s a over. I always go to Frieze New York R.F.: We’re working with Mario latest projects include building person standing outside the fitting and Basel Miami, Basel in Basel Testino on refurbishing his studio Saks Fifth Avenue in Brookfield room, so there’s no need to order a and Frieze in London. in West London. We’re working with Place, which launches on Sept. coffee through a mirror! WWD: If you weren't work- Saks on their department store 8 and the redesign of photog- WWD: What do you like to ing in design, what would you in New Jersey. We are designing rapher Mario Testino’s London do when you're not designing? be doing? a house in the South of France, offices. R.F.: When I’m not designing, I R.F.: If not working in design, I South Africa, Derbyshire (North WWD: Can you tell us about the Saks Fifth Avenue project? The Kurt Geiger store. Richard Found: As you know, it was Saks downtown next to the 9/11 memorial. I suppose we’d been working on it for probably around two years now. What was quite exciting was that obviously it was a very different concept to Saks Fifth Avenue actually on Fifth Avenue. It’s almost like a concept store baring in mind the location. It’s a language. Throughout the floor we real visionary. It was a very good planners insisted that the exten- used a Terrazzo floor. You know all experience. Her attention to detail sion, which was like 5,000 square about the artist Barry Reigate, who is very similar to mine. We’re both feet, had to be behind the cottage, has painted this long mural, which almost OCD when it comes to which meant we had to excavate is 220 feet long. It was a very en- certain details, so we’re very a tremendous amount of soil in joyable process working with Saks. like-minded in that sense. order to start the build. So that was We’re working on another project WWD: What was your most probably our most challenging with them in New Jersey, so it’s an challenging project? project on-site. It wasn’t too bad in ongoing relationship. They gave us R.F.: I suppose the most chal- the end — it was about 14 months total freedom to design the store. lenging project was a house we de- on-site. As you know, some clients will say, signed in the Cotswolds all totally WWD: What are your “this is what we’ve done before...” out of concrete, and unfortunately thoughts on the retail land- but they were totally open-minded there was a very steep hill to get scape now and how does that to a new approach. down to the site, so while we could affect the design process for WWD: What was your most get the concrete lorries down to stores? like to travel if at all possible. But would probably be involved in prop- England), another one in the memorable project that you pump all the concrete out, what we R.F.: The experience within a having said that, I do coincide erty somehow, a property develop- Cotswolds and a large penthouse have worked on? couldn’t do was get the concrete department store has to be far travel with work obviously. I travel er. I just enjoy challenges of gaining apartment in Central London, R.F.: On the retail side, it may lorries back up the hill without the more exciting than it ever has been to New York probably every third additional square feet wherever Mayfair. We are working with Als- well be Anya Hindmarch, as we’ve use of a tractor (because they had because of online trade, so to week. My wife is in the art world, so possible, adding an additional terhaus in Hamburg and also Illum worked on quite a few stores for no traction on their tires to get out). speak. I think there has to be more we go to a lot of galleries and mu- story, adding a basement. I’ve al- in Copenhagen, two large depart- her in the past on Bond Street Also the planners were quite strict of an interactive element within the seums together. Mainly just being ways been interested in structure ment stores. We’re working with and Sloane Street. It was a very on us when it came to the location stores. We’re also coming up with involved in the art world, so I spend and spaces. Without focusing on Vittorio Radice on those projects, pleasurable experience and it was of the new build alongside the cot- the idea of having an app, with your a lot of my free time looking at something totally different, there’s who’s part of the Central Group. great to work with her — she’s a tage that dated back to 1730. The mobile phone telling you what you different paintings and purchases. I a kind of synergy there. — LORELEI MARFIL for Barack, it was sort of one of Parker those big question marks of who Sawyers was going to be the person to take and Tika care of this role. I wanted basically Sumpter 'Southside With You' who Sawyers] is. A total unknown, a total discovery, who comes out of the gate with a brilliant perfor- mance." Premieres in N.Y. "When I first read it, because it was so much dialogue, I was like, Tika Sumpter, Parker Sawyers and Richard Tanne premiered ‘How is this going to work?’” said Sawyers. "But then, when I really the film about Barack and Michelle Obama's first date. drilled down into it, and understood the nuances and the conflict between very simple exchanges, "I just think it's a great love story," you're on. It's not political at all — I esting], because by her account I was like, ‘This would be really said Tika Sumpter Wednesday mean, they talk about things in Michelle wasn't interested at first, interesting as an actor.’” evening from the red carpet at the the future, but it's not a wink-wink and [Barack] had one date to kind Sawyers originally approached Cinema Society's New York pre- movie, it's not [about] red state, of make his case and prove him- the role as an impersonation, but miere of her film "Southside With blue state — it's really a story about self as worthy — and by her own soon abandoned that approach in You." Sumpter, also a first-time forgiveness, love, walking in some- admission he had done just that. It favor of embodying a young man producer of the film, plays sec- body else's shoes. And I think any felt like a classic romantic movie." with all the confidence but none of ond-year legal associate Michelle human being can relate to that." The film debuted to critical the power the Obama audiences Robinson, who agrees to spend The story of the President and acclaim at Sundance, and arrives today know. "I just focused on an afternoon with the charming First Lady's first date stood out to in theaters this Friday. "I wrote it being 28, and trying to impress a young summer associate at her writer and director Richard Tanne with Tika in mind, because I had woman, and his confidence and so Chicago firm, Barack Obama, from the moment he heard it. "It met her before I went off to write forth, at 28, without the presiden- played by Parker Sawyers. "Any must've been in an interview," he the script and I thought she'd be tial or senator title," Sawyers said.