Intelligent Life Outside Reykjavík
Goodbye Grand Rokk • Everybody Loves Hot, Sweaty Men Grendel as an Icelander • Too Horny for Trabant Complete City Guide and Listings: Map, Info, Music, Arts and Events Issue 13 / 25 August - 8 September 2006 ISSUE THIRTEEN: AUGUST 25 – september 8 YEAR 4
Articles The Reykjavík Grapevine crew 66° North 06 The Upstart University Steals the Hearts of Young Iceland The Reykjavík Grapevine Bifröst earns a following, and saves a small town Vesturgata 5, 101 Reykjavík Three-layer system www.grapevine.is [email protected] Perfectly Brutal Exports 12 Published by: Fröken ehf. An interview with Hugleikur Dagsson editorial office 18 Fair Play Needs a Good Referee +354 540-3600 / [email protected] for inquiries regarding editorial content. A column by Toshiki Toma marketing office 20 We Have a Team, Now We Need Some Hooligans +354 540-3605 / [email protected] Iceland vs. Spain: August 15 for inquiries regarding advertising, marketing, distribution 66°North uses a three -layer and subscriptions. system in which every garment has a specific purpose. The user 21 The Icelandic Outlaw Sneaks into Beowulf publisher’s office can layer his clothes to match An interview with Beowulf & Grendel director Sturla Gunnarsson +354 540-3601 / [email protected] for inquiries regarding this publication. the weather conditions.
the reykjavík grapevine staff The Base layer Feature Publisher: Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson / [email protected] Editor: Bart Cameron / [email protected] The innermost material absorbs Co-Editor: Sveinn Birkir Björnsson / [email protected] moisture and keeps it away from 22 The Heart of Rock in Reykjavík Waves Goodbye Marketing Director: Jón Trausti Sigurðarson / [email protected] the skin. This prevents cooling, Why Grand Rokk is closing, and what it means for us Support Manager: Oddur Óskar Kjartansson / [email protected] increases comfort and the body Art Director: Gunnar Þorvaldsson / [email protected] stays dry in difficult situations. Photographer: Óskar Hallgrímsson / [email protected] Staff Journalists: Haukur Magnússon / [email protected] The Mid-layer ssentials Steinunn Jakobsdóttir / [email protected] E Editorial Intern: Valgerður Þóroddsdóttir / [email protected] The versatile mid-layer fleece material provides most of the 34 Dining, Eating and Grubbing Sales staff: Aðalsteinn Jörundsson / [email protected] insulation and it comes in many Jón Trausti Sigurðarson / [email protected] thicknesses. Fleece clothing is Nýhil Poetry in the Grapevine: Haukur Már Helgason also ideal for everyday use. 37 Proofreader: Erika Wolfe
38 Fiction in the Grapevine Cover photo by: Gúndi The Shell One Spring near the Close of the Century by Þórarinn Eldjárn. On cover: Team Hot Pants at Mýrarbolti The outer material protects the user from the elements. These are you planning an event? do you want to tell us garments are worn over the fleece something? send a press release to: [email protected] and are rain and windproof. Music & Nightlife We are always looking for articles. The user can choose different Send your submissions to: [email protected] materials to fit every condition. Are you interested in working for the Reykjavík Grapevine (or the 36 Flexible, Greased Up Comedy Advanced, waterproof materials other way around)? contact: [email protected] Chippendales strip for Icelandic women at Broadway with good ventilation give the wearer the upper hand when You may not like it, but at least it's not sponsored. The Night Horny Electronica Lost to the Horny Countryside dealing with Icelandic weather. 40 (No articles in the Reykjavík Grapevine are pay-for articles. Trabant and Stuðmenn at Ölfushöll The opinions expressed are the writers’ own, not the advertisers’.) For more information on the three-layer system, consult our in-store staff. 44 Are You Ready to Eat Fiber!!! Printed by: Ísafoldarprentsmiðja Ltd. printing press Rodger Hodgson wows the middle-aged set of Iceland # copies: 30.101 Garments pictured The Reykjavík Grapevine can be found in: Base layer: Básar Wool shirt (100% Merlino wool), Mid-layer: Tindur fleece sweater Reykjavík, Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, Selfoss, Keflavík and at key loca- 45 The Ringleader Refuses to Fail (Polartec Windpro fleece), Shell: Glymur tions around road #1 and at all major tourist attractions and tourist jacket (eVent ventilating material). Morrissey leaves our reviewer speechless information centres.
46 Return to Form The Reykjavík Grapevine is published 18 times a year by Fröken ltd. Monthly from November through April, and bi-weekly (fortnightly) from May til October. Nothing in this magazine may Live Concert Review: Mínus and Langi Seli & Skuggarnir at Sirkus be reproduced in whole or in part without the written permission of the publishers. Although the magazine has endeavored to ensure that all information inside the magazine is correct, prices and details may be subject to change.
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42 The Lonesome Traveller: Kerlingarfjöll Reykjavík: Kringlan, Bankastræti 5, Faxafen 12 The Truly Enchanted Landscape of the Witches’ Mountain Garðabær: Miðhraun 11 Akureyri: Glerárgata 32 Keflavík: Airport and retailers across Iceland. 48 Things You Should Do in Iceland Before You Die… Or Turn 31 www.66north.com One last trip around the Ring Road SOUR GRAPES EDITORIALS Complaints, criticism, suggestions, praise, money, anything at all: Contact [email protected] or send your mail to: The Reykjavík Grapevine, Vesturgata 5, 101 Reykjavík. All Grown Up Okay, well, for the last time, welcome to Iceland. Now to address long time readers of the are guaranteed, at the very least, to be rid of my Dear Bart, Roses on my iPod when I heard this have you guys done to deserve that If this is your first time picking up our paper, or Grapevine, the tourists who got addicted, the opinions and, even better, my God-forsaken Thanks to you and your colleagues scream followed by hard braking in summer?! your first time in Reykjavík, let me assure you open-minded locals, the immigrants, and the editorial photos, for the next two years. for the listings in Grapevine’s and a loud thump. The back of the High spots - the people and that you have just discovered a guide that will people abroad who are just curious: the Grape- The Grapevine will be no worse for my de- last issue. It sure was a helpful guide coach bus reared up momentarily the scenery (when I could see it...) enhance your visit, and your life. You’ll get noth- vine is now, officially, an institution, an odd state parture. In the past year and a half, the paper has in finding our way around Reykja- and we then came to a complete Soundtrack to the summer – Bela’s ing but honest opinions in this paper, guiding you to reach for an alternative newspaper. grown up. We now have writers, and photogra- vik although our introduction to stop. The bus had hit and run over Ticket for a train, of course. Sub- through a town and a country that isn’t all that We are no longer a paper that is based on one phers, and designers, and ways of doing things, Sirkus didn’t quite fit the descrip- a baby lamb that wandered out onto lime! easy to navigate without us. or two people’s effort, ego, or personality, we are and we have an editor with experience, patience, tion in The Grapevine… the road. The driver had the hor- Best wishes In this issue, we present a feature about the something bigger. There are a lot of people to and an established voice taking over, Sveinn On Saturday August 5th rible task of removing the carcass Peter A. Phillips loss of one of the key institutions of Reykjavík: thank for this, among them the people who start- Birkir Björnsson. -after having a great evening at while the mother sheep watched Grand Rokk. As musician and journalist Haukur ed the paper, Hilmar Grétarsson and Jón Trausti I am proud of the work I did at the Grape- Innipukinn we decided to spend on, as did everyone on the bus. Sindri Eldon did the interview with Magnússon explains, a smallish bar/chess club Sigurðarson, along with the first editor, Valur vine, with the newspaper and with our recent our last hours in Iceland at Sirkus. The travel guide, all shaken up and Studio Granda, who designed City has played a key role in shaping the remarkably Gunnarsson. In my time as editor, a few people book, but the real test of our success, which I It was about one o’clock when we nearly in tears, explained that this Hall—I thought it was an excellent competent local scene. And we are losing it in have made important contributions, especially believe we will pass with flying colours, will be arrived at the club and we were happens on a regular basis and that piece. As for the weather, I grew up in Bart Cameron, the next few weeks, to older patrons interested in our photographer, Guðmundur Freyr Vigfússon, this transition over the next few weeks. I firmly expecting quite a line but there human fatalities occur. Wisconsin. This is good weather. Glad Editor flat-screen TVs. our designer, Gunnar Þorvaldsson, and writ- believe the paper will continue to grow, the were only 4 French people waiting I really do think that laws need you found Bela. Every foreigner should As it is August, the best time for travel, we ers like Paul Nikolov, Haukur Már Helgasson, Grapevine name will get stronger, and I will be to enter. The door opened a couple to be introduced to ensure that farm buy at least three Icelandic CDs on a also present as much information as we could Þórdís Elva Þorvaldsdóttir Bachmann and Sindri forgotten, and that is the best thing an editor can of times to let people out but was animals are behind fences and not visit or consider him/herself a failure muster on places to go around Iceland. For hik- Eldon. hope for – to have created a paper that speaks closed immediately and without any left wandering popular tourist roads. in life. ers, we’re proud to present the further endeavours Ah wait, this is starting to look like a speech, as something bigger than the individual names explanation. We waited patiently I felt sorry for the lamb but was also of our own Lonesome Traveller, a man with more isn’t it? What kind of speech would it be? Well, associated with it. I plan on coming back in two and assumed that it was just too full grateful that the bus did not go off testosterone than Floyd Landis and Marian Jones here’s a hint: I ain’t getting any awards. years, pointing at a Grapevine far superior to to let people in but after some time the road and crash. I would not care RE: Greetings from Racine combined. That’s right, this is a retirement speech. any product I ever edited, and impressing a local the door was opened again and a so much if the bus handled like a Greetings and salivations ~ Beyond that, we bring you an excerpt from I’m leaving Iceland to go to America and cover bartender by bragging about how I worked on the girl let us know that there were no Porsche 911, but at 100km a 10-ton Just wanted to send a friendly hello the Baron, an excellent work of historical fiction. the build-up to the 2008 presidential elections. paper way back when. French people allowed in Sirkus. tourist coach full of people does not after seeing the write up on you in And then you can read about the cultural goings While I will stay on as an advising editor with The reason given: Sirkus did not look good when it crashes. I would the paper the other day -- what a on about town and country, interpreted by people this paper, and while I will return in October for tolerate French and French people hate to think what would happen if lovely surprise! I’ve been reading who care about culture. our daily Airwaves issues, the people of Iceland are boring!?! a full grown cow wandered onto the Grapevine for about 2 years or so Quite a generalization and pret- road in front of the coach bus. now, and had the extreme pleasure ty offending as well- even if you’re We passed quite a few cows of spending the best week of my life from Amsterdam! Is this supposed just grazing freely without fences. in Iceland in June ’05. It’s funny to be one of the best places in Rey- I understand that you can’t contain how you mention the similarities kjavik? I really did not expect such a wild animals, we have a big problem between Reykjavik and Racine; I hostile approach from a club that is with people hitting Kangaroos in felt at home immediately, but didn’t described as an alternative club and Australia, but farm animals are really know why. And I’m still promotes itself with the slogan ‘wel- another story. I hope that Iceland homesick-- yes, for a place I visited come to the jungle’. We spent some and the local farmers and communi- for only a week. Who can explain it? time in front of the door hoping that ties address this issue, if not for the That’s the beauty of Iceland. I hope it was just a joke but soon found out safety of tourists and Iceland people to get back in the next year or so. that while people from Iceland were then for the well being of farm Desperately. getting in without any problems, the animals and livelihood for farmers. Cheers! ~Julie. The Death of Effort doors stayed closed for us foreigners. On a different note ... I loved Some people from Reykjavik com- your articles, your cafe-bar-restau- See, Peter. I told you. I’m from a I am a big fan of punk rock and punk rock values. So I subscribe to the thought that everybody because they seem to suffer from taking the plained about this door policy but rant guide is awesome, and your ar- cold place. My hometown paper in I like the superficial sense of inclusion it pro- should go out and do something without letting whole ‘let’s just go out and do something’ thing nothing helped and the doors stayed ticle on the Rex nightclub convinced Racine, Wisconsin wrote a far too kind motes; the sense that you shouldn’t have to be the impossibly high standards, or a lack of finances or too seriously – or not seriously enough. For shut. Is Sirkus known for its tourist me to give it a try. Are the barmaids description and interview about the world’s greatest instrumentalist just to play some talent hinder them. And that’s kind of been the instance: if you want to publish a magazine, the ban or were we just plain unlucky? really that sexy?? work the Grapevine is doing. Then music, the sense that everyone can participate in spirit of Reykjavík and even the wider world these main point of that should be what you want and Take care, I hope you publish my letter. I realised that a lot of people from some way regardless of their abilities, its sense of past few years, with the advent of internet blog have to say, rather than just the act of publishing Bart & Vivian Keep up the great work! Wisconsin read our paper, and never egalitarianism – that everyone is worth some- journalism and whatnot. And by all accounts, itself. That’s really beside the point. Amsterdam See ya, introduced themselves. We’ve really got thing and that every effort should be celebrated that should make me happy. But I am not. You probably can make a lot of money selling Karim to do something about our state motto: in its own right. I like punk rock and it’s mantra There seems to be a fundamental misunder- ads in a magazine that celebrates that anything Bart and Vivian, Sydney Australia Don’t speak until spoken to. Please, of “everything’s possible if you set your mind to it standing regarding the abandonment of some of can be said, and that’s maybe more exciting than You were extremely unlucky. There are if you visit Iceland, and you’re from – so go out and do something.” the more exclusive and oppressive standards the the actual making of it. But the punk ethic is usually a range of people inside Sirkus. Karim, Wisconsin, drop a line. (I won’t be Of course, no punk rock scene works like that world has been operating by. Even if it really is not about assuming that readers (or audiences) But the line can be a drag – I stand in Glad you enjoyed the issue. Bus drivers here, mind you, as this is my last issue, in reality. They are tightly knit and hierarchal always better to do something than nothing, that are idiots that will gladly swallow every piece of it sometimes, and it convinces me that really shouldn’t crash. I think that’s but I’ll still be serving as an advising elitist organizations, with leaders and followers does not mean that just anything will do. You poorly written and ill thought out bullshit you sobriety is really the best policy. One the issue. And they shouldn’t hit sheep. editor, and everybody in the office has Haukur Magnússon, and a plethora of rules you have to abide. But that still have to make an effort. The beauty lies in the spoon-feed them. At least grant readers and audi- more thing, the Welcome to the Jungle Sheep really aren’t that sneaky. And specific instructions to be friendly to Journalist is beside the point. I like the idea of punk rock effort anyway, rather than action itself. ences a minimum of respect, the other key tenet slogan was a bad joke on our part. It they pretty much only wander around cheeseheads.) values and how they present themselves, what My generation has been getting active in to the punk aesthetic. really isn’t their slogan, we just thought in the summer, when it’s light out. So they want to be. It’s probably better to at least fields like publishing and writing recently and it was a really lame way to describe crashing into a sheep when you’re a romanticize and strive for a notion of egalitarian- while I am all for that, I still feel the urge to a bar. That irony thing that was big professional driver is inexcusable, in RE: Weren’t you there? ism than to ignore it completely. distance myself from most of their works, mainly in the 1990s, and that we only just my opinion. I went to Innipúkinn and saw you, discovered. As someone who enjoys the wildlife disguised with a beard, playing two of Iceland, I have to say I would prefer shows, one as a country band called it if fences weren’t erected throughout the Foghorns, and one with an Dear the country. This doesn’t mean I want Arcade Fire-type band. Then I read G´Day, more dead sheep. I just think driv- the Innipúkinn review. My name is Karim and I am here ers whipping around at unsafe speeds How did you manage to actually in Iceland on holidays all the way should be held accountable. Not farm- play a show and have no perspective from Sydney Australia. I thought I ers. on what happened? You didn’t even should write to you to congratulate manage to get the right genres for you on an excellent newspaper. I your own band. think I learnt more about Iceland Dear Bart If you were on stage, and you and Reykjavik from your newspaper Having just spent a few days in were in the festival, why didn’t you (Issue 12) than any of the popular your town, it was a pleasure to read write an insider’s article on the travel books. I stumbled across your an intelligently-written free paper thing? Isn’t the Grapevine your job? paper on the table at the Subway just which took in not only things of down the road from the HI Hostel particular interest to English-speak- A lot of questions here. Was I at In- Lunch special! where I am staying. ing tourists but some very interest- nipúkinn? Yes. Is the Grapevine my I thought I’d express something ing articles about life in Iceland for job? Yes. Most of my time at the music From 11.00-14.00 The luck is of concern that I believe Iceland the locals, especially the immigrant festival involved local bands yelling needs to address. Yesterday on the issue and the interview you did with at me for giving out negative reviews. way home from Jökulsárlon Glacial the designers of your City Hall. Only now do I see how amusing that with you Lagoon an event occurred that The fact that I picked up on might have been as an article. Finally, shook the life out of a coach bus your summer concerts and managed I didn’t grow a beard to hide. I grew full of tourists. I was staring out to get to see Bela twice in one day a beard to have something new on my the window at the moss covered was a definite added bonus... face to talk about. lava grounds listening to Guns N Low spot - the weather. What
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The Upstart University Steals the Hearts of Young Iceland Bifröst earns a following, and saves a small town
by steinunn jakobsdóttir
Icelanders have long taken pride in their high Although the study is the primary reason Bifröst is an essential element to the local has caused many new developments in the level of education. With eight universities and for all the people at Bifröst, the campus is get- educational system. “I had looked into all the countryside, as all the new inhabitants have an ever-growing student body, there seems to ting a reputation for its social life, with active universities before applying to Bifröst and brought a booming business for the neigh- be legitimate reason to brag. Now it seems that political organisations, a gym, hot tub, sauna, found this one suited me the best. Bifröst is bouring area. The students use services in the Bifröst School of Business is witnessing its nine-hole golf course, a weekly pub quiz and quite different from the others and in my view, Borgarnes, like the bank, supermarket and golden age with the biggest boost in applica- its famous Thursday drinking. Judging from after graduating, students are better prepared restaurants. A large group lives at Bifröst all tions since its establishment nearly 90 years those students I talked to, life at Bifröst seems for the work place. The other universities don’t year round, 70 children go to the preschool on ago. While multiplying its student body in pretty damn good. suit everyone and of course the same applies campus and the older kids attend the elemen- only a few years, the school is also transform- Both the small class sizes and the location to Bifröst, so I think it is very important to tary school of Varmaland. Teachers and wait- ing a small rural area into a thriving commu- rank high in the students’ comments about the maintain a good variety in education.” ers have jobs year-round, which is not typical nity. advantages Bifröst has. Sonja Ýr Þorbergsdóttir, a student of busi- for small towns in Iceland. New apartments, Bifröst is located in Norðurárdalur valley “Because the school based in the coutryside ness law, agreed. After moving from Reykjavík a bigger preschool, more teaching facilities, in Borgarfjörður, only 90 minutes away from the atmosphere is quiet and students have an while pregnant and starting school at Bifröst, a larger gym and a new service area to meet the capital, and the increase in the number easier time concentrating,” Davíð Klemensson, she now lives in an apartment on campus with the growing need of the inhabitants has also of students this last decade at Bifröst has a third-year business student told the Grape- her one-year-old daughter, husband and dog. opened up new employment possibilities for been truly remarkable. In 1997, 100 students vine. Before he moved to Bifröst, Davíð lived “I started studying law in the University developers. All this has to be considered as a attended the school; in the fall of 2006, the in downtown Reykjavík and was surprised by of Iceland, but got bored of having to sit in positive step for the area and a much better number has risen to around 700. how much he liked living outside of the city. the stairs of crowded Háskólabío and found industry to build on than we are witnessing in Bifröst offers accommodation for all the “The school’s emphasis on interaction in the study both boring and uninteresting. At other parts of the country. students attending the school, as well as for classes, challenging assignments and teamwork Bifröst, we have fewer students, which results “The universities at Bifröst and Hvan- their families, and today almost 800 people is a big plus. Everyone wants to help each other in a more personal connection between teach- neyri have almost become the base market in live on the school campus or in nearby sum- out and you get to know fellow students much ers and students as well as among the group Borgarfjörður. Hundreds of jobs have been merhouses where they can get tanned, work better than in large classrooms where students itself. That can lead to some lively discussions created in the area which has had great effects out, relax in the sauna, play golf or chitchat scatter around in different directions after in and out of the classroom, not to mention on Borgarbyggð,” Bárður Örn Gunnarsson with fellow students while grabbing a bottle of school. Here you get to know people you will the benefits of knowing everyone when you explains. beer at the Bifröst Café between classes. probably come across in the work field after are here with a child. There is always someone Kolfinna Jóhannesdóttir researched this The price for all of this is 236,000 ISK per graduation,” Davíð said. ready to babysit and the nursery school is just issue for her graduation project at Bifröst. semester, making Bifröst the most expensive When asked about the high percent- next door. Being close to nature is also great She found that the school played a significant school in the country. Still, its popularity is age of graduates who work as executives or for the kids.” role in population growth in the Borgarbyggð growing and young Reykjavík residents are administrators in various Reykjavík businesses: In a small community like Bifröst, eve- area since the year 1997. With its operation, moving away from their homes in the city to “Together with the companionship, what I ryone knows each other and, as Klemensson the school has increased the number of young attend. The school is surrounded by towering find most important are all the practical skills points out, it is a great place for exchange inhabitants in the area, which has not been mountains and dramatic nature, far from the you learn when working for example on big students to study and get to know the locals. the case in comparable municipalities in the bustling nightlife in the capital, a choice that research projects, skills that are truly helpful Every term a group of foreign students from all country, not to mention raised the level of would have been unheard of a decade ago. when students flock to the work place.” over the globe travels to Bifröst, as courses in education in Borgarbyggð. All this strengthens “The establishment of two new faculties For that, the school has earned a good English are offered in all faculties. the human capital in the meantime. can explain the increase in students in some reputation in recent years. The research at “In a small community like this, the While no one can see the end of this part,” Bárður Örn Gunnarsson, a former Bifröst has also gotten an impressive amount exchange students blend in much more easily. boom, students, spouses, children, teachers student and now the marketing manager of Bi- of coverage. Usually they room with a local and everything and staff members will keep living in harmony fröst, explains. Now there is a Faculty of Law, When a couple of students in the business is done to make their stay easier, ” Klemensson in this small but growing community that Business and Social Sciences and Economics, department got the idea of putting up a golf explains, which is quite different from what sounds more like a luxury holiday lodge than offering various programs at the bachelor and course in Viðey, mayoral candidate and Inde- those exchange students attending universities a school. The development and establishment master levels. We also have foreign professors pendence Party Golden Boy Gísli Marteinn in the capital usually experience, as they often will continue and the aim is set at having teaching classes and taking part in research Baldursson lent his reputation to the endeav- find it hard to mingle with people other than 1,500-2,000 people inhabiting the area in the projects. our. other foreign students during school hours. next ten years. Hopefully achieving this goal “But for the most part, people attend the Regarding whether or not Iceland, a Apart from being benefitial to students won’t diminish the school’s charm or hurt its school because of the quality of study,” Bárður country of only 300,000, needs another major trying to get a degree, make friends or get to personal teaching policy. adds. university, Davíð Klemensson is adamant that know a different culture, the university also news On top of mountains, in the streets of Reykjavik
News in Brief
by haukur magnússon and valgerður þoroddsdóttir photos by skari
Bolungarvík fights waning population globe to those deserving. Funk band Jagúar Icelandair recently announced on their Gunnarsson, editor of Fréttablaðið Björgvin with Love Week played their funky funk in an attempt to warm website that because of the “changed condi- Guðmundsson, editor of Blaðið Sigurjón M. The remote Westfjords town of Bolungarvík up those tender country loins, love-based arts tions”, checked baggage restrictions will be Egilsson, director of Ríkissjónvarpið Páll has a rather unorthodox approach to tackling and craft courses were held and townspeople loosened to allow each passenger 23 kg, as Magnússon, director of NFS Sigmundur the Icelandic small town’s ever-decreasing paid visits to Bolungarvík’s oldest and newest opposed to the former 20 kg, and the price for Ernir Rúnarsson, and director of Skjár 1, the population numbers, as their recent “Love couples. The festival was closed by an erotic each additional kg will be reduced from 1,800 three Progressive Party ministers: Minister of Week” indicates. aphrodisiac jam-making session. ISK to 750 ISK. Foreign Affairs Valgerður Sverrisdóttir, Min- The week-long celebration is, in the words At security check-in, every passenger will ister of Industry and Commerce Jón Sigurðs- of key organiser and Bolungarvík elementary be asked to remove their shoes to be X-rayed son, and Minister for the Environment Jónína school principal Soffía Vagnsdóttir, “… an Security tightened at Leif Eiríksson on urging of along with other carry-on items. Bjartmarz. attempt to get the fine people of Bolungarvík U.S. aviation authorities Passengers should plan to arrive at the Reportedly, only four of the 11 invited to love more, and to make more love and thus In response to an announcement from British airport at least two hours before scheduled had responded to the offer in time for the more babies – resulting in more residents for authorities on Thursday, August 10, that a departure, and should expect delays. proposed deadline. However, along with Bolungarvík. We basically wanted to get our terrorist plot to launch a wave of attacks on Magnússon (Ríkissjónvarpið), Egilsson town growing again.” airplanes flying between Britain and the (Blaðið), and Rúnarsson (NFS), Haarde A reward is offered for those who show United States had been thwarted, Leif Eiríks- Independence Party ministers crash accepted the offer on behalf of himself and cold hard results of Love Week’s effort. son International Airport issued a statement journalist protest several uninvited officials of the (ostensibly According to Vagnsdóttir, those townsfolk on their website declaring that restrictions on Saturday, Prime Minister Geir H. Haarde pro-heavy industry) Independence Party. who submit a living, breathing infant in the carry-on items would be implemented for all and three Independence Party officials were In his letter, Ragnarsson urged his invitees month of May and can prove they were in passengers travelling to the United States of escorted by local reporter and aviator Ómar to consider taking a look at the oft-disputed Bolungarvík for the conception, can expect America. Ragnarsson on a day’s guided tour and flight dam project from a different perspective. monetary compensation and various gifts from The statement explained that at the over the Kárahnjúkar dam project. Haarde “You’ve previously taken the time to the town and its inhabitants. urging of United States aviation authorities, accepted Ragnarsson’s public invitation for the acquaint yourself quite well with one side of “After the first festival, our very own love passengers travelling to the U.S. would be trip in a late-night phone conversation earlier the case [presumably Landsvirkjun’s], but not princess was born here and her parents were restricted from bringing any type of liquid that week, Ragnarsson told Morgunblaðið. so much the opposing one. I am inviting you in turn showered with gifts and praise. Last on board into passenger cabins of the planes. The ministers Haarde brought along for the to observe both sides with your own eyes in a year’s festival did not bear any loin fruit, but According to the release, liquids include all ride were Minister of Education Þorgerður day, while there’s still a chance. […] I believe we are confident that this one got our people beverages including water, liquor, sodas and Katrín Gunnarsdóttir, Party Chairman it is my duty as a reporter to give you a chance busy in their bedrooms. juices, as well as perfumes and all types of Arnbjörg Sveinsdóttir and Chief of Parlia- to get to know the area affected by the dam “We have to get more people in town by creams (including shampoos, toothpaste, etc.). ment’s Environmental Council Guðlaugur Þór in the aforementioned manner. It is now up to any means, Love Week is thus also about However, NFS reported that security Þórðarson. you to decide what you believe your duties to showing the outside world just how lov- restrictions had been amended to include The invitation to the trip, published in be.” ing and caring us Bolvíkingar are and that all passengers on international flights. The Morgunblaðið earlier this month, called for In an interview with Morgunblaðið, Bolungarvík is an excellent place to be,” new rules state that most passengers will be 11 “influential Icelanders” to accompany Rag- Haarde said that while he’d greatly enjoyed Vagnsdóttir told the Grapevine. She added permitted to purchase drinks at the airport’s narsson on a day trip around the Kárahnjúkar the tour, it would not affect the decisions al- that Love Week has established itself as an duty-free stores, but that passengers travelling area in order to allow them witness “with ready made concerning the Kárahnjúkar dam. event Bolungarvík’s townspeople look forward to the United States must pick up their bever- their own eyes, the [dam’s] structures and the to each year and steadily attracts more visitors ages at the departure gate, and that the seal greatest part of the area affected by it, rather 1.5 Billion ISK loss for Dagsbrún this year from around the globe. must be broken before boarding. than just a small portion [like the luxurious WIND- AND WATERPROOF SOFT SHELL since 1972 Numerous erotic events took place Small quantities of food and milk will also wine-and-dine tours seemingly offered by Dagsbrún, owner of 365 Publishing, has re- throughout the week. The festival commenced be permitted for passengers travelling with other parties of interest do].” ported an approximate 1.5 billion ISK net loss with the release of thousands of so-called children, as well as medications not in excess The 11 people Ragnarsson specified in so far this year, with approximately 87 percent Love Balloons intended to spread Bolun- of 240 ml for those with health complications. the letter were, along with President Ólafur (1.3 billion ISK) occurring in the second ICEWEAR CLOTHES ARE AVAILABLE IN ALL MAJOR TOURIST SHOPS garvík’s message of love and prosperity (not Leif Eiríksson has not issued a formal news Ragnar Grímsson, Prime Minister Geir H. quarter, according to Viðskiptablaðið. to mention aluminium-based litter) across the release regarding this updated security plan. Haarde, editor of Morgunblaðið Styrmir The loss is considerably greater than what Drífa ehf, Sudurhraun 12 C, 210 Gardabaer, Iceland, Tel +354-555 7400, Fax +354-555 7401, [email protected] news
market analysts predicted, which was between -101 and A post-Menningarnótt statement confirmed that -328 million ISK for the first half of the year. levels of drunkenness had indeed steadily increased as 365, publisher of daily newspaper Fréttablaðið the night went on, followed by various bouts of fight- among others, is now hatching plans to cut costs for ing and other cultural activities. It went on to say that their local and foreign press. Ari Edwald, the company’s several gallons of alcohol had been confiscated and that director, told Fréttablaðið that thus far the company 20 underage teenagers in varying states of intoxication had no plans to downsize the size or frequency of any had been escorted to a youth shelter. of their papers, as was done with tabloid DV earlier this In an interview with Morgunblaðið, Reykjavík year. Police Chief Geirjón Þórisson speculated that in light While sales of the company’s stock have increased of the teen drinking, it might be viable to move Culture by 188 percent in the first half of the year, from 13.2 Night from Saturday to Sunday. billion ISK to 20.2 billion ISK, the company’s losses, according to Viðskiptablaðið, were spurred by many fac- tors, including inflation, new and raised taxes, and the Fifty-thousand celebrate Gay Pride downtown introduction of new investors in the market. Reykjavík’s annual Gay Pride festivities culminated Gunnar Smári Egilsson, director of Dagsbrún, said on Saturday, August 12, when an estimated 50,000 in a recent company press release that returns for the marched down Laugavegur, celebrating the gay lifestyle company should be greater than what the current num- and reminding Icelanders that there is still a long way bers show, since projects in the second half of the year to go to secure fair and equal treatment of all civilians will work to make up lost profits. regardless of their sexual orientation. The parade’s final Earlier this year, Dagsbrún founded 365 Media destination was Lækjargata, where a rally featuring vari- Scandinavia in Denmark with plans to publish Nyhed- ous speeches and musical performances went ahead. savisen, a free daily newspaper scheduled to be distrib- The day of the march, an unnamed coalition of uted to every house in the country starting in the fall. Icelandic Christian sects published a full-page ad in According to a story published in Danish online news Morgunblaðið encouraging homosexuals to “seek out a service Børsen last week, Dagsbrún is having second cure for their disease.” thoughts about the publication of the paper, as they an- A heavy debate followed, with Icelandic health of- nounced recently the founding of a separate investment ficials publicly condemning such rehabilitation attempts fund, of which the company would be a minor partner, and the Lutheran state church making sure to distance with a 600 million ISK investment. itself from the coalition. Former director of Føroya banka in Denmark, Jørn Astrup Hansen, says that the company’s decision to cre- ate the fund separate from the publication bears witness Immigration in the spotlight to the fact that the company is being cautious about Immigration concerns have been in the Icelandic media their involvement in the Danish free-paper market in spotlight these past few days, spurred by Morgunblaðið’s light of increasing competition. reports last Sunday that six female immigrants from When two new free newspapers enter the Dan- outside of the EEA zone were seeking legal assistance ish market in the fall, Mads Dahl Andersen, editor of for work- and residency-related matters after abandon- Søndagsavisen, predicts a “media war”. ing their Icelandic husbands. Andersen says that in the case of such a “war”, pub- According to the Morgunblaðið piece, the six lishers JP/Politiken, Berlinske and Dagsbrún will incur women – one of whom has already been deported – were severe financial losses. all subject to violence by their husbands. The discussion has seen a growing critique of the Icelandic government’s decision to grant EEA citizens Teenagers continue to drink at annual Culture Night priority over others when it comes to handing out work spectacle permits, with many claiming that the policy serves as a Reykjavík’s annual Culture Night festival, Menningar- weapon in the hands of abusive husbands. nótt, took place last Saturday, featuring a curious amal- “They can indicate that if their wives don’t follow gam of the city’s finest cultural offerings juxtaposed their will, they can get them kicked out of the country,” with cotton-candy stalls, advertising and often heavily one Morgunblaðið correspondent was quoted as saying. drunk attendees. In a statement issued on Monday, the Coalition The only guide that tells you the talk of the swimming pools, how to The festival has been steadily growing since its in- of Women of Foreign Descent heavily protested the ception 11 years ago and now consistently draws crowds deportation of foreign women “whose only crime was to find the best cafes, how to recover from all night parties, an A to Z of of up to 100,000 to the small city centre. flee violent husbands that draw their power from unjust Those partaking in the festival could experience laws and a brutal bureaucracy. These acts of deporta- Icelandic music and what "Viltu kaffi?" can really mean. various events in and around the city centre, with con- tion send out the message to abusive husbands and their certs, art shows or theatrics taking place on nearly every wives that they are free to subordinate them; otherwise street corner. they’ll simply be denied a work permit and thrown out Culture Night was opened with an 11 a.m. speech of the country. No woman should have to dwell a single by Reykjavík Mayor Vilhjálmur Þ. Vilhjálmsson. minute with a man who uses violence against her, and Travel Guides Can Be Honest. Really Cultural fun continued throughout the day, with a it’s not the government’s job to hand those men such reportedly disappointing fireworks display at 10:30 p.m. oppressive tools. It is a matter of justice that the laws marking the end of official events. take into consideration the situation of foreigners from Recent incarnations of Menningarnótt have been outside the EEA zone who suffer the hardship of having heavily criticised for ultimately turning into drunken a violent mate. Available at your nearest bookstore spectacles and this year’s festival certainly wasn’t any “The foreign women’s association demands that different in that respect, with a reported 15-20 thousand Alþingi accepts law changes that will stop this abuse attendees partying well after the conclusion of official and make it safe for women to flee domestic violence, events, according to the Reykjavík police. regardless of their origin.” 12 interview Perfectly Brutal Exports An interview with Hugleikur Dagsson Special offer
by bart cameron photo by skari
Last issue, the Grapevine’s own featured cartoonist, Hugleikur Dagsson, gave us an enormous map with Icelandic horses abusing each other with anal dildos. This issue, he informs us he’s been signed to Penguin. We met with the next big thing.
/// So when the hell did you get so famous? – This week. I’m not famous yet. Give it another week.
/// And you’ve sold an Icelandic comic col- lection to an enormous English publish. I had always thought these comics were meant only for consumption here. Aren’t they exploring the Icelandic mentality? – Yeah, I think so. I wasn’t really sure at the time, when I first did them. I really didn’t do these kind of comics to publish them, I did them without thinking.
/// How did this all start? – Actually, there was this arts show in Seyðis- fjörður in 2001, the summer of 2001, and I was participating in a art show with two other artists and there was like an hour until the show started. I just wanted to put more into my show, and I had these small pieces of paper in front of me, and I drew two little figures, stick figures, and one of them said ‘Fuck me’ in Icelandic. And then I just got another piece of paper and drew something else, and I did like 30 drawings in 20 minutes, that’s the first 30 pages in my first book.
/// Which isn’t Avoid Us? – No, it’s Love Us. Which was self-published.
/// It’s a long way from Syðisfjörður to London, though. What happened after the show? – I kept on doing this ‘cause I got a really Discounts on day tours good response at the show, and I graduated in 2002 from art school and started working with like disabled teenagers, artistic teenag- ers in Garðabær, FG. I had these comics, so, when you graduate from art school you have 2 0 0 6 to do some art, and I had these drawings, and I decided just to print them and staple them 5% discount for 1 daytour together and try to sell them. I put them in i n stores like Dogma and Eymundsson and 12 I c e l a n d Tónar and they got some really good atten- tion. I did that for three Christmases, next 10% discount for 2 daytours Christmas I did ‘Kill us’ and then ‘Fuck us’.
/// Nothing says Christmas like Fuck Us. – Then JPV contacted me and I made a deal 20% discount for 3 daytours with him and published AVOID US, Col- lected Works, and the same year I did Save us. Our brochure is available /// And you’ve been with the grapevine since Tours must be purchased at Reykjavik Excursions kill us? at all major hotels and – I think so. The first thing I did for Grape- sales offices: BSI Bus Terminal, Radisson SAS Hotel Saga, vine was Whaley, I had done Kill Us and was guesthouses. working on Fuck Us by then. Icelandair Hotel Nordica, Icelandair Hotel Loftleidir. /// I have to ask, as an artist, isn’t it shocking or appalling having these simple sketches be the work that finds success, not the work you trained for? – No it’s not shocking. I never even considered them sketches, just really simple drawings. sense of humour. But I’m not really sure what /// And in England they’ll be as funny but /// That’s gotta be disappointing. They have Yeah, I was just happy, actually, because of the Icelandic sense of humour is. I guess it is they won’t have the same function. to have sarcasm, they like Godzilla. everything I did, the thing that was the easiest a cold humour, cold and dark humour, that’s – That’s probably true. Maybe I should move – Yeah, but maybe the sarcasm is very fine. was the one that succeeded. The easiest thing ICELANDIC AD AGENCY/SIA.IS KYN 33158 06/2006 what Icelandic sense of humour is. You can see to England and work on my book there, and Almost invisible sometimes. © I do is what I live on now. But it’s not always dark humour everywhere. then move to the States and you know, con- easy. Sometimes I have a deadline and I have quer the world that way. /// Let’s talk about subject matter. In our last to do maybe 40 or 50 drawings in one day, and /// Yes, there is dark humour everywhere. issue, you went crazy over priests. You were I usually do it when it’s late at night. When But here, in a country where the media and /// You could finish up in Japan. once censored for criticising priests. But you’re in the middle of that, your mind gets public dialogue is required to be positive, – Yeah, I’d like that. But they have the sickest you’ve told me that priests love your work. kind of worked into a weird state. then your work functions as social criticism. shit in Japan. – Well, I did that map over two days and – That’s a good point. Yeah, I can see the spent probably eight to ten consecutive hours /// I still want to say, how do you print these social commentary in my own work but it was /// You mean manga about little schoolgirls. on that. And when you’re just working for works in a place without the social context? eh, that was almost accidental, when I got my – Someone told me, though, because of all a short time I have to find something to do These are works of social criticism, right? first review, when people started talking about the countries I’d really like to be published in, and don’t repeat myself, so there was a lot of Booking phone: Tel: (+354) 562 1011 www.re.is e-mail: [email protected] – Well, I went to a Danish comic book how I was doing this, and I was very pleased Japan would be the coolest, but people told me priests and a lot of ass on it. One time, there convention in April, with ‘Avoid us’, and you because at one point I felt extra pressure, they don’t have sarcasm there. So I see all the was a priest singing about ass. know, people liked it. Americans, British peo- because now I had to keep writing relevant sick comics I read from Japan are not sarcastic, ple and like Danish people, and many Danish comics. they’re just really sincere. >>> continues on next page people said it was very much like the Danish 14 superstar
/// And to think that we didn’t get to where the guy who complained That was the joke, making fun of any complaints. I’m alarmed that a was coming from because he got the stick figures. But then later on I newspaper’s website censored you. really offended because the fact read it and published it, I thought it After one complaint. Is that the that I mentioned AIDS in a joke was crap. way things work around here? context. So AIDS is something you – I’m not sure about that. Maybe the shouldn’t joke about /// Are there any that stick in your priest had some friends at Morgun- head as the ones that make you blaðið. That’s how things work here, /// I think he was referring to laugh as you look at them? people know each other. the 80s pop culture in the U.S. – No, well, I don’t laugh out loud at There, derogatory jokes about my jokes when I think of them, not /// Yeah, but they don’t have to AIDS got mentioned all the time anymore. I do it sometimes when apply reason or logic to their com- in pop culture, the most infamous I’m drawing them. Sure there is a plaint, they just have to… example being Sebastian Bach’s lot of stuff I am pleased with, stuff – Not always, no. But I think usu- Aids: Kills Fags Dead t-shirt. As I’ve done at the Grapevine, like the ally priests are very smart people I am an American, and I present elephant, dolphin and the Christ- who have a big sense of sarcasm. a mix of American and Icelandic mas story. culture, I shouldn’t have presented /// I would have assumed that as something that only works in an /// I’ve got one favourite that is you cover everything from rape, Icelandic context. lodged in my brain. A couple on a incest, faecal matter nonsense, – Yeah, you have seen, living in blind date, and the women says “So that there would really be more America, a huge wave of AIDS that’s the worst thing I ever did. reactions. jokes. Living in America and know- What about you?” And the guy – Well, you know, reactions so far ing lots of people dying of AIDS, says “I once participated in a gang are to blasphemy and almost noth- you’re going to find it offensive. So, rape.” ing at all about these incest jokes. At I get it. – (Laughing.) That’s one I had in my 8.990 kr. with pick up that convention I mentioned, there head for a really long time. I had it
was this American couple looking /// But the joke is more acceptable in my head before I started doing River Fun 5.990 kr. through my book and they said, in an Icelandic context, because this. Because I was reading, I saw it “You have a lot of incest jokes in this you guys have never had that in the newspaper a piece about how book.” I just said I was from Iceland. negative stigma. You had a pretty many people in ten had participated They just said, “Of course.” responsible government when in a gang rape, something like that. AIDS came in to Iceland, and A staggering amount of people had /// They can just pretty much do they educated right away, that was participated in rape, and I was kind that for every problem that comes the time the gay rights movement of blown away that I could walk up though. “I’m from Iceland.” started getting going here. out of this coffeehouse right now Cobain’s Corpse Awakens, – Yeah. “I’m from Iceland. It’s cold – And besides, this is a story about a and pass a rapist at one point. I was up there.” I think Penguin are man who had AIDS and hid it from thinking that and also OK, what Shoots Self Again kind of lives do these guys live, do they wake up in the morning and Magni and Supernova kick culture in the teeth go, “Shit, I can’t believe I raped a There was this American couple looking girl last night, I was soooo drunk.” by bart cameron Clacial hiking & Ice climbing 9.990 kr. through my book and they said, “You have Are they like that? I mean, how do they think? So I thought of this 11.990 with pick up a lot of incest jokes in this book.” I just situation, of a rapist on a date and At 8 o’clock Pacific Time, Kurt examination of nitwit culture at he would just tell her the truth, you Cobain’s corpse sprang from its the beginning of the 1990s. Cobain said I was from Iceland. They just said, “Of know, it’s like truth or dare, like grave, sprinted to a local Wal Mart, said, about writing the song, that “What’s the worst thing you’ve ever purchased a shot gun, and blew the when he was growing up, kids in course.” done?” “Well, I once participated in last piece of decaying grey matter Aberdeen Washington were “like gang rape. I guess that’s the worst out of the inch of the skull that still Beavis and Butthead, only not as thing I’ve done.” I mean, how do remained on its neck. smart.” Cobain’s songs chronicled putting some information about his girlfriend until they were mar- people that do all those horrible An Icelander was responsible for the torture of living in a brain dead, Iceland on the back of the book, like ried and told it to her going away things, how do they get through the this poor corpse’s misery. butthead age. Iceland has this many sunny days a from the church, so it’s a story about day? That’s a huge mystery to me Our own Magni got up on year and people like putrefied shark, a very irresponsible human being and a lot of my stories are a way for In the months that we have covered international television, and sang so that explains the book. So that’s who had AIDS. And it’s what most me to deal with that. the reality television show Rockstar: Teen Spirit like he was channelling Nature Is The Adventure! what I do, I sit in the darkness and of the stories are about, like human Supernova we’ve had some laughs. Creed, that is, he took an intelligent River Adventure 7.990 kr. eat putrefied shark and then I make behaviour gone wrong. /// I’m sure that not many people The dorky trio of Supernova are and critical song, and performed it comics. It’s almost correct. I eat and consider it though, until they come consistently naïve and go-lucky, and as thought it was a vague utter- 9.990 kr. with pick up I sit. /// And this is why priests like your across that panel. It’s a perfect and as they lead a gaggle of hapless wan- ance meant to allow the singer to work so much? Because you focus brutal joke. nabes, they are sometimes funny. In strain the throat and get that muscle /// If you and I are going to do an on the fallibility of man? – Thank you. Do you mean like fact, living in Iceland, this is proba- showing, just above the collar, that interview, then we have to talk – Yes. I think so. Also, I have God because people consider the people bly the only place in the world where women might check out. about the AIDS comic, whether I there (in my comics), but I don’t on the date as soul-less monsters? one could watch and enjoy Rockstar. To then see the cast of Super- should have apologised for print- really draw God so it’s not really We have the advantage over the rest nova critique it, and ask, brainless as ing it. blasphemous. I just make his word /// No, I think they have to think of the world in that we have the only the day they sniffed their first bottle – You don’t have to apologise to me. balloons come out from the air. of them as people for just a second. likable contestant not suffering from of glue, why Magni hadn’t thought Otherwise, the tendency is just constant sexual harassment. Up to smash a guitar. The whole band /// That’s not my intention. I just /// What’s the most embarrassing to avoid thinking of bad people. I until the recent episode, we also had really thought Magni did well, but wonder if you think it was justi- comic you did? One you would be think it’s something in the Icelan- a contestant who had some degree of should have smashed something. fied? embarrassed to look at while some- dic mentality because it’s a small integrity. Magni was followed by the – Well, I think it’s the only time one else was in the room? isolated island and because of the So we watched as Tommy Lee, contestant Ryan Star, who, along ever when there’s been an apology – One joke in Save Us has these history of legal persecution under who built his rocker reputation by with Tommy Lee himself, was River Ride 7.990 kr. punching out women’s teeth and likely the subject of another Nirvana
by you guys, by the Grapevine. Is it three guys, typical stick figures like Danish rule, that there’s an inter- 9.990 kr. with pick up the only time? Really? I draw them, and one of them says est in trying to understand people video-taping his wife while he song, Rape Me. Ryan Star may be “So I’m an albino, so what. Stop who commit crimes. infecting her with Hep C, made brain dead, without charisma, and /// Yes. looking at me like that!” And I – It really is a weird thing. Because word play and pretended to know completely out of fashion, but at – Well, that’s kind of an honour, thought it was really funny when I it’s not really possible to understand the value of the domestic life. We least he follows instructions. As he in a way. I didn’t make an issue wrote it because I wrote it because it. Yeah. That’s what I have to say watched Gilby Clark, of Heart sang an original song that sounded out of it, but I was very curious as in stick figures everyone’s an albino. about that. fame, say casually nice things with like a Live tune without the pesky the defeated eyes of a man who grammar, he posed his way through has been cuckolded many, many throwing a guitar, to show how times. We even took pleasure in rowdy he could be. seeing Frankenstein look-alike It was a sad evening for those of Jason Newsted, a man with so little us at the Grapevine. We had wanted character that after playing with to like Rockstar, and Magni. We Metallica for 20 years he was known have dedicated large portions of our as the new guy, grunted out advice magazine to the genre of rock mu- on vocal technique. We began to sic, and we wanted to keep on liking appreciate the show in the way that genre. That has been taken kids might appreciate a local blind, from us. To hear Nirvana would be foul-smelling, bad-tempered dog to remember the day a neighbour that licks itself while sitting in a demonstrated that “he likes all our prominent front yard. pretty songs but he don’t know what The bad-tempered mutt licking it means,” as the corpse of Kurt Call +354-562-7000 itself appeal faded this week, when Cobain screamed while waiting for an iconic piece of music was de- the underpaid Wal Mart checkout or stroyed by Iceland’s own Magni— girl to okay his ID. To hear rock and then the whole genre of rock would be to remember the brain- +354-898-0410 was obliterated by Supernova. Of all dead gaze of Ryan Star throwing his songs, Magni chose to sing Smells guitar. Like Teen Spirit, the hypercritical We are all now dead inside. and book now! 16 local voice Reader Response : Why Israel Has No Alternative
by stefan kubens
This article refers to the conflict between Is- future. An Israeli with whom I have spoken rael and Hezbollah in Lebanon. It shows why knows that Israel cannot win against the idea Israel is only making use of its right to self- of Hezbollah, as it is funded and motivated by defence. The motivation to write something Iran (and it officially gets military-grade am- about this conflict has grown continuously the munition from Iran and Syria). Israeli intel- icelandgiftstore.com more I read about it in European and Icelan- ligence sources reported that in several cases dic newspapers. In particular, I was motivated the cargo flights during the help and rescue by some lines in the Reykjavík Grapevine, operation for the victims of the Bam earth- which highlighted a demonstration in Rey- quake in Iran (2003) were used on their return kjavík of a so-called Icelandic-Palestinian flights to transport 302 mm guided rockets group against so-called Israeli aggression. from Tehran to Damascus. Even if Hezbol- At the same time I had phone conversations lah is completely destroyed after the current Be shore... via Skype with friends in Lebanon – whom Israeli operation “Change of Direction”, Iran I know from my studies at the Technion will pay and nurture a new Hezbollah. – which were interrupted by sirens, warnings The violence now also draws attention about incoming rockets. away from the real problem, which is Iran. ...not to leave Iceland without a souvenir Hezbollah is using guided and unguided This allows one to think about what will hap- artillery rockets against cities with hundreds pen to the western world once Iran completes of thousands of inhabitants, making a normal its atomic bomb. In one way or another they life north of Haifa impossible. Unfortunately, will use it. The logic behind a second strike the majority of European newspapers cover ability that stabilised the situation between this issue more or less only from the point of Russia and the U.S. during the Cold War view of Lebanese civilians who suffer enor- would not hold between the western world mously from this conflict. But by showing and Iran. The current president of Iran served only one side, some newspapers even violate as a volunteer and officer in elite units in the their task to deliver objective information and Iranian army during the Iran-Iraq war. He finally support the side that is responsible for became one of the chief commanders of a very this mess. special unit. This unit was called Basitschi-e Mostasafan, the members were all volunteers According to the majority of European media and had the same approach to life as Hezbol- the roles are like this: on one side is the Israeli lah does today. A speciality of this unit was to aggressor invading Lebanon, while on the send numerous fanatic (and probably drugged) other side Lebanese civilians are buried by the children on suicide missions over mine fields Israeli Air Force. One reason for this picture [6 and 7]* so that the mines exploded and the is the influence Hezbollah has on photogra- area was cleared for the major attack. The phers and journalists in southern Lebanon. children had plastic keys around their necks. Southern Lebanon under Hezbollah rule is far These keys were meant to open the door to from being a democracy like Israel. Hezbollah paradise [7]*. Same tactics today: Hezbollah is threatens journalists with violence [1] if they like one of these children on a suicide mission don’t act in their interest. Several journalists running through a mine field whereas the reported that they were only allowed to take commander is watching how far they get and ern Lebanon by Hezbollah are/were artillery totalitarianism. [8] pictures of destroyed apartment blocks and where it can get dangerous. The Basitschies rockets of several types. Hezbollah claims What happened between Israel and Hez- civilian casualties [2], while it was not allowed are considered to be “the inventors” of the first to have approximately 10,000 missiles. Most bollah is, as in some other places, the visible to picture the modern weapon systems or modern suicide attack [7]*, which was carried rockets are modified, so that they cause as peak of a cultural conflict between western heavily armed fighters of Hezbollah. Fur- out in 1982 against the U.S. embassy in Bei- many injuries and as much damage possible. values and the extreme view of a small minor- thermore, journalists in southern Lebanon rut. Even today, the Iranian president is hold- For example, in the vests of the suicide bomb- ity inside Islam. The recent attempt to bomb can only move with help from and under the ing his speeches or attending public events in ers, the warhead is covered with small balls airplanes between the U.S. and U.K., and the supervision of Hezbollah. Delivering objective the uniform of the Basitschi-e Mostasafan. [9] from ball bearings. Due to the lack of will or attempt to bomb two commuter trains in Ger- information is thereby actually impossible. Being aware of these facts, it is absolutely power of the Lebanese army, one had to step many (31.07.2006) were two more incidents Under these conditions, it is at least very dif- necessary to prevent Iran from getting nuclear into Lebanon to neutralise these missiles. with this background. Again, Islam itself is a ficult for Israel to compete in the media war. first-strike ability. The balls inside the rockets have enough peaceful religion. Only a small group believes The imbalance of coverage in this conflict can energy to break the glass of windshields of in jihad and is thereby destroying the reputa- be seen in the pictures printed in Fréttablaðið, Why there are no alternatives cars at a distance of 100-200m around the tion of the whole religion itself. Therefore, the showing long lines of Israeli tanks on the bor- The president of Iran, Mahmud Ahmadine- detonation point. These modified rockets, solution can only come from inside Islam and der of Lebanon, while not one single Hezbol- jad, is probably the most powerful man in the which cannot be intercepted, represent an this means a discussion/conflict between the lah fighter was pictured. region. Due to his control over Hezbollah he enormous psychological threat to the civilian small but violent group of followers of jihad Some other examples of how easily some is holding the key in his hands to stop this population. On some days more than 200 on one side and on the other side the majority European media became a fifth column work- conflict, but it seems as if he is not interested of these rockets were launched against the who sees the future of Islam in peaceful co- ing in the hands of an extremist organisa- in a stable Middle East where the Jews are liv- northern part of Israel including the city of existence with other religions. tion are the following observations. In this ing in peace with their neighbours. A peaceful Haifa. Haifa is home to 250,000 inhabitants, conflict, Israelis are mostly shown as soldiers, co-existence with Israel is possible; this can members of five different religions, living side Sources: [1] New York Times 10.08.2006: At a Makeshift River whereas Lebanon seems to consist only of be seen on Egypt and Jordan. Both countries by side in harmony, peace and mutual respect. Crossing in South Lebanon, Guerrillas Come Out in the women and in particular dead children. No have signed peace treaties with Israel. Fol- A rich tapestry of contrasts and colours, vary- Open. Hezbollah position and Katiusha battery was lowing an Ahmadinejad speech from October ing cultures and ethnic groups makes up the [2] Zeit online International: Rat der falschen Wächter. ever pictured, nor was there broadcasting 2005 in which he explained his desire to wipe fabric of life in Haifa. Secular, religious and 8/2006 [3] taz 09.08.2006: Israel hat keine Wahl. about the refugees inside Israel. Israel from the map, and being aware that ultra-Orthodox Jews live side by side with [4] Die Zeit 26.10.2005: Von der Landkarte tilgen. Hezbollah is supported by Iran, each conflict Christians, Moslems, Baha’i and Druze. [5] United Nations Interim Force in Lebanon (UNIFIL): 1 store in the Center of Akureyri The problem on the long run: Iran with Hezbollah is more or less about the sheer Israel has always tried to spare civilians Press Release, Naqoura 26.07.2006 [6] www.wikipedia.org: Mine (Waffe). Pkt.6.2.2 hu- After nearly four weeks of news about this existence of the Jewish state. In May 2000, (i.e. by posting flyers before each raid over manitäres Minenräumen. 8/2006 conflict, the reason why the IDF is hunt- the IDF withdrew from southern Lebanon Beirut), while on the opposing side Israel’s [7] www.wikipedia.org: Basitschi-e Mostasafan. 8/2006 Ráðhústorg Skipagata ing down Hezbollah terrorists in southern to the international border, and it was backed enemies systematically prevent any separation [8] www.redaktion-bahamas.org 8/2006 Hofsbót Lebanon came a little bit out of sight for and approved by United Nations resolution of the militias from the civilian population. [9] CICERO, Juni 2006: Kanonenfutter der Mullahs (von Mathias Künzel) Skipagata readers and listeners of European media. 1559. The resolution also called Lebanon to And furthermore, they single out every Jew Hafnarstræti During this time it was nearly forgotten that send its army to protect the border, but Leba- – armed or not – as their target. Finally, Israel Pictures were provided by PARD Technion (Division the conflict was started by Hezbollah and non did not send the army. The real paradox is in the difficult situation that it is rather of Public Affairs and Resource Development, Technion – Israel Institute of Technology, Haifa) and Lenny Hamas when they kidnapped three soldiers of this conflict is that the Israeli Defence impossible to negotiate with extremists who Maschkowski, a professional independent photo-journalist in a well-prepared and professionally carried- Forces (IDF) are actually doing the job of the have the slogan “We love the death”. [8] from Haifa. out operation. Even Israeli military members Lebanese army. Israel is seen as the western outpost had to admit that this was one of Hezbollah’s Another alternative that isn’t work- among the states in the Middle East region. It 2 stores in the Center of Reykjavík best planned operations during which eight ing, which ended in a tragedy for four UN is the only democracy in the Middle East. The * The Grapevine has to object to the use of Wiki- Israeli soldiers died. Considering that Iran is observers (Khiyam) is the UN mission in GDP of 7 million Israelis is as high as that of pedia as a source here, at the most pointed section æti the major financer and supplier of Hezbollah, southern Lebanon (UNIFIL). UN troops 100 million inhabitants in the neighbouring Hafnar of the response. Wikipedia is for Simpsons’ plots, stræti sstr it is hard to believe that the kidnapping of the could only observe what was happening and states, although this country has had to defend ólf not history. You can find our stores in Reykjavik Center, Akureyri and Keflavik Airport. Hve rfis Ing two soldiers was not initiated or at least sup- write reports; they were not able to disarm its existence since it was founded. For the gat a ported by Iran. Iran needs this conflict to hide an extremist organisation like Hezbollah. It radicals (jihad) inside Islam, the destruction The above article is a reader response to our inter- Ban of this country is their first goal on their way a kastræt behind and is probably just testing the western became even worse for the UN. In the begin- net coverage of the recent Lebanon crisis. We print gat world as to what extent they give the Israelis ning of this conflict, the UN positions were to building a new empire under the Islamic it in an attempt to show opinions other than those jar i a free hand in its actions for self-defence and used as shields for Hezbollah against Israeli law, sharia. Particularly, in the conflict with of our own editorial staff. We welcome similar A great selection of souvenirs... Læk Lau gav how far the west would go to support Israel in air strikes. Hezbollah fired from the vicinity Hezbollah, Israel is fighting this war also for responses to any issues that readers feel we have . a serious military conflict. of the UN posts. [5] values Europe stands for because there is no misrepresented. BC The real problem will show up in the The weapon systems installed in south- third way between civilisation and violent opinion Fair Play Needs a Good Referee
by toshiki toma
Referees and judges in football, turned out that he in fact did need I am not trying to make a personal baseball and tennis are like shad- to file a statement with the Direc- attack on the Directorate. I hardly ows, and don’t make us strongly torate that he intended to return to know the staff personally and on aware of their existence. But we Iceland. principle I try to avoid making sports fans know how important their acquaintance. I am trying they are in creating great matches. 3. An Asian student came to to point out the fact that a lot of Unfair refereeing in a football game Iceland to study for one year. Her undesirable mis-refereeing is really or poor judging of whether the ball residence permit was valid only for happening, and I want the Directo- is “in” or “out” in tennis can really the first semester, after which she rate to make some effort to reduce ruin a game. had to renew it. The Directorate those cases. Iceland is a democratic republic of Immigration’s website said that This doesn’t mean at all that which is governed by the rule of she had to submit information the staff in the office is unfriendly law. Though we might be imper- about her “success in her studies.” or irresponsible. I know that the fect, we do a fairly good job of this. She got a letter from the school Directorate is making an effort to Citizens here are required to follow saying that she was doing fine. The bridge the gap between the office the rules that the nation decides Directorate of Immigration replied and the immigrants, among other and provides, as are foreigners who that what “success in her studies” ways by hiring staff of foreign are staying here with a residence really meant was that she had to origin. I know that the number of permit, and in spite of some submit her first semester grades, cases that the office has to cope exceptions, most of us immigrants which were not ready yet. This was with is increasing enormously. respect the laws of the nation and nowhere explained on the website. Nevertheless, that should not are trying to follow the rules. They also required her to resubmit be an excuse for misguiding immi- There are several things that proof of her finances, even though grants or handling them unfairly. I want to point out by making an the bank statement she had origi- My broader criticism goes analogy between the immigrant nally submitted showed enough in a different direction from the experience and a sports match, but funds for the entire year. Directorate itself. It is first to the first I will take up the importance authorities in the Icelandic govern- of “good refereeing”. I mean here, These are just a few examples but ment who are charged with the with the word “refereeing,” the way the point is clear. One officer says fair and appropriate administration that we handle immigrants’ need A, and then another officer says B, of the laws in this country. If it to be shown what to do in order to and the real answer can even be C! is obvious that the Directorate of live and work in Iceland. And the Such incidents happen so often that Immigration is under too much of a referee here is the Directorate of I feel like “Ah, not again...,” almost burden, why haven’t these authori- Immigration (Útlendingastofnun). without being surprised. This lax ties acted to maintain the quantity My work is all about immigrant attitude towards giving people and quality of the Directorate’s life in Iceland. Administrative or judicial matters aren’t a direct part How to stay alive of my work, yet I am involved in In every single case of mis-refereeing by them every now and then. I have observed some examples of “bad the Directorate, it is we immigrants who refereeing” by the Directorate of Immigration in the last few years. get yellow cards and even red cards. And in the North Atlantic Let’s take first some examples where the referee has done a bad then we are “out” of the game. job of explaining the rules to the players: the correct information was not a staff? Maybe in part because they 1. Two men from an EU nation problem a few years ago, when the aren’t hearing any complaints by came to Iceland to work as interns Directorate of Immigration was immigrants. at an institute for a little over six very flexible and always willing to And this leads me to a second months as part of their university consider each immigrant’s indi- broader criticism. Why do we never studies. They went to the Directo- vidual circumstances. Now that the hear complaints about the Directo- rate of Immigration and filled out Directorate is stricter, immigrants rate of Immigration in any public the form to apply for a residence need to be clearly told the rules of forum, even though they are in the permit. After waiting for two hours the game. air all around us? This is because to speak with someone, they were Another sort of problem arises in most of the cases we immigrants told that they didn’t have to apply when the referee does not treat the are not in a secure enough posi- because they were only staying for players with dignity and respect, or tion to make public complaints a short time. After they returned forgets how important the referee is free of risk. Who dares to offend to their office, their boss wondered as a moral example to the players. the referee who is holding one’s if this was really true, and called At the Directorate of Immigration, destiny in his hands? But this keeps the Directorate of Immigration. It there is, for example, an unwilling us voiceless. I think the respon- turned out that these fellows were attitude at reception, and one must sible authorities and the public in fact supposed to apply for the stand and talk to the staff through media should pay more attention residence permit after all. They had a window rather than sitting down to the existence of immigrants and to go back and repeat the whole in mutual respect at a table. If you should try to dig up what is really process from the beginning. call, you must wait for a long time in our minds instead of asking the on the phone and sometimes you stereotypical questions of “How do 2. A man from outside the EU lives get cut off. Surprisingly often, the you like Iceland?” or “Is Icelandic here under a permanent residence Directorate loses application forms difficult to learn?”. permit. He had to go back home and supporting documents, includ- A good referee is not a gift to take care of his sick parents and ing difficult-to-replace originals from Heaven. S/He is created by Natural, lemon and fruit flavors wound up staying longer than he from the applicant’s home country. society and is living proof of that planned. I cautioned him that he I would like to emphasise this society’s democracy, freedom and Lysi Cod Liver Oil is a rich source of polyunsaturated fatty acids and vitamins A and D with added vitamin E. The omega-3 was supposed to tell the Directo- next point very strongly: In every maturity. fatty acids EPA and DHA have been a special focus of interest for researchers worldwide. These fatty acids are known to rate of Immigration if he would be single case of mis-refereeing by the play an important role in preserving health. Lysi Cod Liver Oil has been an important part of the Icelandic diet for decades away longer than 18 months. His Directorate, it is we immigrants Toshiki Toma is the pastor for im- and is perhaps one of the contributing factors to the longevity of the nation. daughter contacted the Directorate, who get yellow cards and even red migrants in Iceland. but was told he didn’t need to do cards. And then we are “out” of the anything. My colleague wanted to game. confirm this, and asked again. It 20 interview recreation 21 The Icelandic Outlaw Sneaks into Beowulf An interview with Beowulf & Grendel director Sturla Gunnarsson
by bart cameron
In filming Beowulf and Grendel, the director had to deal with a series of hurricane force gales, a shrinking budget, currency fluc- tuations, and the most imposing text in the history of the English language. He has no regrets whatsoever.
/// As the name indicates, you are an Ice- lander. When did you leave? – I was born in Reykjavík and left Iceland when I was six.
/// Obviously you returned a few times. Your film demonstrates a lot of familiarity with the Icelandic landscape, especially the Suðurland. – All of my family is still in Iceland, except my mother and my aunt live here in Canada. That landscape I know pretty well because after I graduated university I worked on a fish boat for a winter off of Þorlákshöfn. I’ve always had a strong sort of spiritual feeling about Southern Iceland.
/// And you do justice to the area. Yours is the first film I’ve seen that properly docu- ments that area. – The landscape and the elements are charac- ters in the film, I think. They’re so powerful. Stellan Skarsgård described it like playing every scene with an unwritten character. It creates a sort of spontaneity in the perform- ance. Nothing goes according to plan.
/// Which brings us to an important aspect of your film. Your misfortune with the weather, which was almost comical. It has even become the subject of a documentary, Wrath of the Gods. We Have a Team, Now We Need Some Hooligans – The filming was supposed to begin in the summer, but the financing didn’t close. It Iceland vs. Spain: August 15 kept delaying the start of the film. We ended ist. John Gardner’s book, Grendel, works on a driven to survive, but at the same time you integrity in English. That was why I went up starting the film in September and that similar level, and that was a huge influence. have to realise that you have no control over there. For me, the idea of making a film on pushed us into December, right into the heart the forces surrounding you. Which is kind of this scale, in Icelandic, there was no possibil- of the beast. I’m told it was the worst autumn /// Those who see the movie and are familiar how I felt when I was shooting the movie. ity of raising the funding. Because Beowulf in 60 years. We had all those hurricanes in the with Icelandic history will see a few huge is one of the most mediated bits of literature by steinunn jakobsdóttir photo by skari Atlantic and they all worked their way down. departures. You’ve really made this into an /// In your use of landscape, were you influ- in the world, because it was passed down (Laughing.) Icelandic Beowulf. I saw a lot of draw from enced by Icelandic movies? for hundreds of years orally, it becomes the “I just can’t believe we didn’t lose!” a satisfied attended to watch a rather uneventful game of ter the first half. They fought well and seemed to the real tournaments we need some devoted the Icelandic folktales and stories dealing – No, with the exception of the fact that it cornerstone of English literature. You’ve got football fan said to his friend when trying to bored and frustrated Spaniards trying to run to enjoy themselves out on the field, while the hooligans (without the violence). The Span- /// But you can still laugh about it? with the outcast hero. gave me confidence that the Icelandic horse all your Westerns based on this. You’ve got so walk through the crowd rushing from Lau- past competitive Icelanders, who sure weren’t Spaniards showed us some dramatic tumbling iards were so thrilled, happy and in a good – Honestly, I think it made for a better film. – The inspiration for me, really, in designing would look cool. The references were more many variations of the tale told so many ways. gardalsvöllur, only seconds after the referee afraid of kicking some superstar asses. and couldn’t really be bothered to take this mood, I was considering joining their team. Although it was very difficult, I’ve got noth- our look for Grendel, is that statue near the John Ford and Kurosawa, the wide screen and The DNA is so potent. I thought it allowed us had blown his whistle for the last time that That might just be the reason for a seriously. Surely there were a lot of pooh-poohings ing but good memories about it. We’d come university, Útlaginn (the outlaw). You’re the the placement of character in landscape, was to take liberties that I would. I’m not sure the night. The Iceland National Football Team crowded Laugardalsvöllur. Icelanders love Yes, we didn’t lose this time and the media when the opponents or the referee did some- off the mountain every day with an incredible first person that’s picked up on that. more what we were trying to achieve. Maybe world would have been ready for a subversive had just played Spain in a friendly, ending in a football and the stars of the Spanish team are had a field day. A fair draw they said while thing locals didn’t like, and we did manage sense of accomplishment. Most film crews with a little bit of Friðrik’s (Þór Friðriksson) revisionist take on Njáls Saga. Even if you tie. Surprisingly, fans didn’t get the pleasure of in many cases better-known than most of the complimenting the Icelandic players. The to let a wave go five rounds at one point of would have cut and run. /// I think there are a lot of things that are droll humour. Everybody in North America don’t know Beowulf, you know the myth that witnessing any goals this time around, which Icelandic players. Raúl, Torres, Reyes, Reina, Spanish media weren’t as satisfied though, the game, but when a couple of youngsters The truth is no matter how tough it was it was very specific for those familiar with Iceland. has been pointing out that connection with underlies it. Even if you don’t know it, you was great news for Iceland but at the same Ibanez, Garcia, Villa. People wanted to see expecting beforehand that the team should were trying to do it again a man shushed never as tough as working on a fish boat. Your use of St. Brendan, who, according to landscape. If you’re building a period piece get the subversive take on the hero that we’re time a shocking result for Spain. the idols for themselves, playing in their home have wrapped up victory. them and told them to stop the nonsense, some sources, landed in Iceland, is particu- in North America, you’re lucky to get 10 going after. But why are Icelanders happy about a 0:0 country. Never mind the results. “El partido más tonto” or “The Stupidest leaving the disappointed youngsters speech- /// Working on a fish boat may be hard, yes. larly specific, I think. degrees to shoot without interference. In draw? Why do we claim that as a victory? The While the Spanish team is filled with top Game,” one Spanish newspaper headlined. less. Nonsense? Aren’t we at a sporting event? One thing that most people in the world find /// I think when I had to teach Beowulf, I reason is simple. Icelanders suck at football. world players from Liverpool, Barcelona and After witnessing Spain’s poor effort in Aren’t we supposed to shout, paint our bellies more difficult, though, is Beowulf itself. brought in Jaws and Jaws 3. It influences No one can deny that fact. We have never Real Madrid to name a few, Icelanders have Iceland, supporters are now in serious doubt and flash our breasts to the cameras? Not sit You’re talking about the point of no return “We’d come off the mountain every day with an incred- some major points of Western culture very made it to the big boys’ tournaments, we only one player who could be considered in their about Aragones’s presence as the coach, but he there like at a dentist office, all shy and polite, for English majors worldwide, who decide, obviously. have one Class-A player and at this moment range, but to our disappointment our local himself excused the game to the players’ low waiting for our turn while trying to let the when they get to Beowulf that literature just ible sense of accomplishment. Most film crews would – It’s a seminal work. the team is experiencing its lowest rating ever, time pass with some distractions, like say, isn’t worth the trouble. How much fear was ranking number 106 in FIFA world list, shar- a big football match. No flares, as they are there in taking on the most iconic text in the have cut and run. The truth is no matter how tough it /// But we should point out, you did keep the ing the seat with Azerbaijan and Singapore, “But why are Icelanders happy about a 0:0 draw? Why forbidden, no big flags or painted faces. Only English language? bones of the story. In fact, I’m guessing this just below Cape Verde Islands, Botswana, a couple of kids wearing Viking hats and some – (Laughing.) You’re right. Beowulf and was it was never as tough as working on a fish boat.” is the closest thing we’ll ever see to a literal China PR, Armenia and Benin. do we claim that as a victory? The reason is simple. men with team scarves. Once in a while a Finnegan’s Wake are the end points for casual interpretation of Beowulf on the screen. Spain on the other hand is among the choir of fans managed to shout “Áfram Ísland” study. I have to say that we were a little naïve – Just because it’s subversive, there’s a lot of re- world’s top football nations with a highly Icelanders suck at football. No one can deny that fact.” loud enough to create some competitiveness in at the outset. It didn’t occur to me that there – On a clear day when we were shooting, you the southland, you can shoot 95 degrees, the spect for the source. There’s not a single spo- experienced team. Occupying the seventh the stands, but that never lasted for long. would be such passion and feeling about the could see Papey. Where Irish monks once landscape is as it was 1,000 years ago. Which ken word that’s not Norse-root English; there position on the same FIFA list, fresh from With the exception of a small crowd, our source material. landed. The idea was to give a nod to the is remarkable. What you get in Iceland is that are no Latin words. Even words like cunt can Germany where they played the FIFA World golden boy Eiður Smári Guðjohnsen didn’t enthusiasm to play a friendly at this point and fans really have to pep up before the game Our intention right from the start was that poem as written, and that’s why we introduced it’s one of the very places on earth where you be traced back to 1200, and it’s a Norse root Cup for the eighth time in a row while we show. Our striker and team leader, now play- stating that they weren’t ready. He admitted against Denmark on September 6. We have we have respect for the source, but we were the Brendan character, who was loosely mod- can have an unmediated experience. It’s not word. So there was a fidelity to the source. haven’t even dreamt of an appearance at the ing for Barcelona, pulled out of the team at that it was the worst game ever for him as a to stop being a football nation that is thrilled not doing a literal adaptation. Our intention elled on Brendan the Navigator. directed by literature or media. I know that World Cup. A football game between these the last minute because of illness, leaving the coach and was totally shocked by how the Ice- with a 0:0 draw and shocked if we win a was to do a riff on it. Beowulf is the root of You’re talking about a period when the the trend in Icelandic art is to move away from /// Well, I’d say you were loyal to the source, two nations can’t be considered an even event, pressure on Hermann Hreiðarsson. But while landic players were rough in a friendly, send- game. We can’t continue reviling our team if the hero myth in our culture. And we wanted influence of Christianity is just starting to be the nature, but North Americans haven’t had but Iceland is the star. This watches like as and no one was expecting these results. the game went on without Iceland’s only foot- ing the Spanish players home all scratched it doesn’t live up to our expectations if we can’t to look at the hero myth through modern felt. their fill yet. much of a work about the love of Iceland as ball star, who rested at his home in Spain with after harsh tackles. be bothered to support our players like real eyes. While the story sticks to the bones of You know Stellan, King Hrothgar, his anything I’ve seen. When walking towards Laugardalsvöllur, I his teammates Puyol and Xavi, other players Spain’s best performance that night wasn’t fans do. While the Spaniards are disappointed the poem this is quite a subversive take on the conversion was very Icelandic and sensible. /// You are an Icelander, and you chose to do – Being born in Iceland and having gone back have to admit I was preparing for the humili- finally got the chance to show what they got. out on the field but in the crowd. Their few and want to forget this whole extravaganza poem. He doesn’t give up his Thor’s hammer. The a story that took place in the same age as the there, I feel very strongly about it. Seeing it ation of a crushing defeat, as were many with As said before, the majority expected fans were the best team at Laugardalsvöllur ever happened, we Icelanders sure shouldn’t. same way Icelanders took to Christianity. If sagas, essentially, but used an old English play in Iceland has a lot of meaning for me. whom I talked before the game. One guy told the Spanish players to get the better of the and in that field they played far better than Now we just have to work on an attitude /// Which, really, becomes the English it will avoid a war, we’ll do it, but you can do text. Would it have been more imposing to You never see this on film. me he wasn’t really ready to be humiliated Icelanders, leaving the nation humiliated the locals. While a group of five Spaniards change. Stop using the energy in poohing major’s wet dream. Getting to apply modern whatever you want at home. do a saga? The farmers don’t overlook this. In Ker- once again; another said that the Icelandic once again. But hell no! The Icelandic players standing near me, waving their flag, shouting and support the team for real. Then it will be theory to the old text. Icelanders are very pragmatic. You have to – I looked at the sagas, and I explored that lingardalur, where we shot most of this, the players would probably just align at the goal surprised us, Spain, and anyone paying even “Viva Espana!” and singing football songs I impossible to predict what will happen when – I’d like to think that the film works for be in that environment. Pragmatic and fatal- to some length before deciding on Beowulf. farmer there said he’d been out every single line with the keeper in front of them, hoping the slightest amount of attention to European couldn’t understand were able to dominate we will play Spain again in the Euro 2008 people who’ve never read Beowulf. But to get istic. It gets back to trying to understand who The problem for me was that whenever you day in this valley, and it’s never the same. It’s that the ball wouldn’t go in. Even though the soccer. The Icelandic team didn’t hang in on the Icelanders, I can’t agree with local media qualifiers. at the deeper understanding, that does require these people are who live on this landscape, do one of those sagas in English, you lose still alive in the process of being formed. majority of the nation had doomed the game defence the whole time, they weren’t afraid to thanking them for their support that night. If a deeper understanding, because it’s revision- where you have to be so incredibly tough and the character. Whereas Beowulf lives with as a guaranteed slaughter, over 13,000 people attack, and they honestly deserved to lead af- we are ever going to win anything and make it 22 feature feature 23
The Heart of Rock in Reykjavík Waves Goodbye Why Grand Rokk is closing, and what it means for us
by haukur magnússon photos by gúndi and skari - This spring, about 60 middle-aged Nordic week and hear the following: “We are through Grand Rokk does not have a particularly long at Grand Rokk. It was one of the few rules we - CLOSED phenomenologists convened in Reykjavík to with hosting concerts, at least in the form history as the city’s primary music venue. set ourselves. Another one was to always treat discuss their (very) particular branch of phi- we’ve been doing up until now. The reason At its old location (in the building that now the artists with a minimum of respect; no - CLOSED losophy and its various conundrums. One of is that it simply doesn’t pay well enough houses the famous Sirkus), it was mostly matter who they were or how big they never - CLOSED the fun-filled events sandwiched between the – doesn’t pay shit, in fact. Thus, we decided known as being easy for underage drinkers to had to pay to play and always got access to our CLOSED featured lectures and seminars was a reception to embark upon several policy changes, one of get into, occasionally playing host to rowdy sound-guy, drink vouchers and the opportu- at the city’s town hall, where Councilman Ste- them being to focus on music favoured by our shows by cover bands. It wasn’t until the bar nity to charge admittance.” fán Jón Hafstein gave a short speech welcom- older patrons.” moved to its current Smiðjustígur location I ask if he tried to develop the metal scene, ing them to “[…] enjoy Reykjavík’s lively This was Grand Rokk’s manager since that it started making a name for itself as a as with Mínus, or if his focus was more pop, atmosphere, excellent nightlife and vibrant February, Þorsteinn Þórsteinsson, adding that viable alternative to older venues. like Mugison. music scene!” “an older clientele was more likely to have Explains promoter, musician and national “Diversity was a point of pride in our Yeah, nerdy phenomenologists, go see some money to its name and hence, to spend state radio personality Freyr Eyjólfsson: booking policy; we tried not to limit our- a smelly bar gig in downtown Reykjavík. A some.” “Sometime in 2002 I had grown extremely selves to the standard indie-rock fare and drunken Singapore Sling performance will I ask him if he is turning Grand Rokk into weary of the whole downtown live music scene thus had experimental electronic musicians, surely enhance your visit. a sports bar. and its available venues. Back then, most country balladeers and metalheads playing Funny thing is, they did. And it did. consecutively. And we went against common conceptions as to what you could and couldn’t In promoting Reykjavík as the metropolitan “They’re always bragging about ‘Reykjavík, the cul- do as a club – some of our most successful cultural melting pot we like to brag about it nights featured acts that other venues wouldn’t being, music is a commodity. There isn’t a ture city’, music this and music that – when it finally allow within ten feet of their premises. We question in anyone’s mind that Björk’s career were really into the idea of providing up-and- has brought more tourists to the city than the starts paying off and we get tourists that are inter- coming artists with the opportunity to play in Icelandic pony ever did. Or the state sym- a professional environment of sorts and I can phony orchestra, for that matter. Hafstein cer- ested in checking out the scene, there’s nowhere for honestly say that we’d give anyone a chance, tainly didn’t lie; Reykjavík does have a vibrant no matter how inexperienced.” music scene, one that is at its best extremely them to go.” Just as amusing as the local bands, though, exciting to witness and participate in. were the foreign acts that played the tiny club. Many bands now popular in Iceland took From Alabama Thunderpussy to Wedding their first steps on the tiny stage of the afore- “Yes, and no. We are currently installing concerts took place on Wednesday nights and Present to Bob Log III, the club constantly mentioned bar Grand Rokk. Hjálmar played several flat-screen televisions upstairs for that were rather tame affairs – there weren’t even brought in bizarre and respected bands, from their first show there. Singapore Sling, Mínus very purpose. We see an opportunity here, as that many, to tell the truth. So I presented wide-ranging genres, constantly. Eyjólfsson and Brain Police all expanded their follow- there aren’t a lot of sports bars in downtown some ideas to [Grand Rokk’s former owner] credits liquor for the foreign bands. “We’d try ing by playing it regularly. In fact, it’s safe to Reykjavík. That will only be for the second Kalli and he in turn gave me freedom and our best to act on every drunken idea we got, say that for the past five years Grand Rokk floor, however, Grand Rokk is primarily support to try and realise them. and some of them were even rather good. We has been a resource for bands looking to hone the bar of our steady customers and we will “We started off by fixing up the stage, booked [cult favourite] Stereolab after a night their craft in a semi-professional environment continue to accommodate them to their liking buying a decent sound system and booking a on the binge; somehow, the idea seemed really free of downtown’s now happily forgotten in our downstairs drinking area. The sound couple of weekends. The ball started rolling plausible at 4 a.m. And sure enough, they ‘pay-to-play’ atmosphere (in the past, musi- system and stage will still remain on the almost immediately after that. People really came and played an extremely sold-out show cians would have to pay bars a small sum for second floor, so there’s always the possibility caught on to the idea of catching a concert at to an ecstatic audience. This compelled us to hosting a concert. The practise has now been of hosting concerts. If we indeed decide to do midnight and pretty soon, we were hosting occasionally call our favourite bands and see mostly abandoned). that, they will be few and far between, at most three concerts per week at the very least, a tra- if they were willing to pay us a visit. Some- Grand Rokk is, then, the heart of Rey- every two weeks and then only by established dition we kept right until the bar was sold. No times it would even work. We were this close kjavík’s music scene. Imagine how it felt, then, bands.” matter what week of what month, you could to having the White Stripes perform here a to talk to the manager of Grand Rokk this always count on seeing something interesting >>> continues on next page 24 feature it’s free
Issue 13, 2006 8 Page Listings Section in Your Pocket
couple of years ago. It isn’t even that crazy visiting punk and rock bands. Reynisson tells chaotic, as Fall shows tend to be, and after and music that – when it finally starts paying if you think about it, as many of the world’s the Grapevine that he has had some trouble they finished, I led Mark E. Smith backstage, off and we get tourists that are interested in most famous rock clubs are very similar in booking shows after the demise of Grand where we talked and shared some drinks. At checking out the scene, there’s nowhere for size to Grand Rokk. New York’s CBGB and Rokk and Gaukurinn and was forced to cancel one point, I opened him a beer bottle with my them to go. And at the same time they’re London’s Marquee really aren’t any larger.” what was to be a sort of farewell gig for some teeth, to which he replied by pointing at his building a ridiculously expensive enormo- Like many in the scene, Eyjólfsson, who of his band members due to the lack of an ap- toothless grin and telling me I should be care- dome for the ‘higher’ forms of music right in partook in building Reykjavík’s music reputa- propriate venue: “Grand Rokk’s policy change ful. A wild night that was.” the city centre, a symphony hall that’ll prob- tion, sees the end of Grand Rokk as the end of has really left a huge gap as far as I’m con- Although Thoroddsen associates many ably wind up hosting poorly attended flute an era. “Now, we must confront the fact that cerned. For a long time, it was the place you good memories with the bar and grants it a concerts most of the time. If you’re going to go Reykjavík is getting limited in some respects, relied on when everything else fell through. certain place in the history of Icelandic rock, in that direction, you have to ensure that pop at least if we want to maintain the stigma of And with it and Gaukurinn gone, it’s much he isn’t worried about the future: “First off, and rock get equal access, which is something culture and art that has slowly crept around it. harder to play shows in Reykjavík, especially this is something I really don’t understand they’ve completely ignored.” There’s no gay club and hasn’t been for years. if you want to charge admission and maintain and seems to happen a lot here in Iceland Continuing on the theme of righteous in- And now we are lacking a proper rock venue. some level of professionalism, not settling for – it’s like people are actually trying to shoot dignation at the monstrosity that will be Rey- Seriously, when I got wind of this, my main a shit sound-system for instance. Grand Rokk themselves in the foot over and over. There’s kjavík’s symphony hall (built in the same spot thoughts were that this was a sad day for Ice- was a great resource in that regard.” recently been plenty of talk about the excellent as the Grapevine’s old offices), Thoroddsen landic music and culture in general. I actually Speaking about the old venue, he seems shape of Reykjavík’s grassroots musicians and offers a legitimate suggestion: “It would have thought there were quite enough hamburger to suffer from a bout of nostalgia: “It was these concerts have for the most part been a been incredibly easy to design the building so joints here to keep dumb sports idiots occu- sort of like a community centre for musicians great success. And now they’re through. In the that there’d be a small Grand Rokk-like venue pied. Apparently, I was wrong.” and music-lovers in the regard that you could long run, however, I think we are going to be in one of its corners. Now, that would have He can’t help but point out that the clos- always count on there being something hap- fine. Someone’s bound to see an opportunity been forward thinking.” ing of the live music venue seems peculiar: pening. It certainly wasn’t as big and fancy as, there and seek to fill the void left by Grand “Mainly, I’m surprised. The venture never When confronted with these arguments, the lost money – in fact it was rather the opposite city councilman who took so much pride in – and there are still opportunities to expand. “Even if places like Grand Rokk and Gaukurinn bow the local scene, Stefán Jón Hafstein, points We get a lot of tourists here that have heard out that at least the environment is right for great things about our music and nightlife and out, there’s always someone willing to pick up where rock. “You’re telling me some news here. It’s are interested in catching a gig. And I now sad to see Grand Rokk and Gaukurinn go, find myself dumbstruck when they stop me they left. You know, we’ve already started seeing although I am convinced that there isn’t going on Laugavegur and ask where they can go for to be a problem in the long run. I am proud of that purpose. There really isn’t anything now, places like Amsterdam take over. One of Reykjavík’s Reykjavík’s music scene, and it is still thriving. although Amsterdam shows some promise. And the city’s current economic and social Hopefully, someone will spot the opportunity better aspects, like Airwaves has shown us in the environment is of the kind that really benefit a Matt Freakin’ Dillon! Doing Bukowski! and get something going again. Our city’s prosperous rock scene.” Matt Dillon’s and Marissa Tomei’s presence at the open- independent films, America, showing a variety of inde- the Enron Scandal and the Cohen brothers’ Romance and honour depends on it.” past, is that if no one else is willing to, you can just The Social Democratic Councilman offers ing ceremony of the Iceland International Film Festival pendently-produced films from the States, Documenta- Cigarettes, with Sopranos mobster James Gandolfini in some laissez-faire advice: “Even if places like this year will be a highlight for film in Iceland, but it is ries, and finally Gala, which includes carefully selected the leading role. A film of particular importance for this The same month Grand Rokk decided its do things yourself.” Grand Rokk and Gaukurinn bow out, there’s only part of what cinephiles can look forward to in the films that will be premiered in grand ceremonies, like the nation of melting glaciers, An Inconvenient Truth, Al fate as a sports bar/dive, another key venue in always someone willing to pick up where they three weeks of IIFF. aforementioned gift from God, Factotum. Gore´s struggle against global warming will also make its the Reykjavík music scene closed down – one left off. You know, we’ve already started see- Dillon and Tomei both star in the Bent Hamer’s film The line-up up at this point includes, for example, Icelandic premier. SJ that has in many respects been as important say, Gaukurinn or NASA, but it had a real Rokk and Gaukurinn. Throughout my years ing places like Amsterdam take over. One of Factotum, based on the great working man’s saga of the Dave Chapelle’s Block Party starring the comedian as Grand Rokk in hosting and developing comfortable feel to it and the fact that you following Icelandic music, there’s always been Reykjavík’s better aspects, like Airwaves has same name by every two-fisted man with a pen’s hero, himself and directed by Michel Gondry, the Oscar- The Iceland International Film Festival, August 30 – Sep- new talent, its larger capacity making it serve could walk in most nights to check out what one main place that takes the heat of the city’s shown us in the past, is that if no one else is Charles Bukowski. nominated documentary Enron: The Smartest Guys in tember 21 as a sort of ‘next stop’ for bands after they’d local bands had to offer marked it as a vital concert activities and that slot is available now. willing to, you can just do things yourself.” The films for this year’s festival are divided into four the Room starring John Beard, George W. Bush, Dick For more info, visit www.icelandfilmfestival.is. conquered Grand Rokk. stop when going out. You’d inevitably meet Amsterdam seems to be trying something like A neat suggestion. The city will ignore the categories: World, containing the cream of international Cheney, Peter Coyote and Kenneth Lay in a film about In July, Airwaves favourite Gaukur á colleagues, and not just from your neck of the it, which might work out fine. As I recall it, local needs, but will take pride that musicians, Stöng filed for bankruptcy after a long strug- woods – it wasn’t segregated in the way that Grand Rokk was rather similar to Amsterdam like poor people, can find their own solutions. gle with creditors. In an interview with Blaðið Sirkus and Kaffibarinn are and no one group when they started emphasising live music. If I ask about how the rock scene can last in last week, Gaukurinn’s proprietor Sigurður claimed it as its own. Grand Rokk was a good Grand Rokk was indeed losing money from all a downtown that is pricing rock clubs out of Hólm Jóhannsson stated that the club’s down- place to get exposed to new things. With it of this, maybe the state or the city should have the market. fall could in part be explained by the public’s gone, it’s harder to properly follow things.” been decent enough to support it in some way.” “That’s a good point, those places can’t hesitance to pay to attend concerts, as well as I feel obliged to ask, given the possibil- really operate in an expensive or ‘fancy’ envi- frequent visits from Reykjavík’s health inspec- Morgunblaðið music critic Arnar Eggert ity that Reykjavík will not have a good venue ronment; it doesn’t fit. We probably stand to tor that were usually accompanied by fines for Thoroddsen shares some of Reynisson’s senti- for the next few years, shouldn’t the City of see them move away from Laugavegur and the exceeding the legal decibel limit. ments regarding Grand Rokk, and has some Reykjavík, which profits immensely from the city centre to the edges of downtown, Hver- Thus, Reykjavík is lacking an appropri- fond memories of the place. “When The Fall scene, contribute to bars that are the scene? fisgata and Hlemmur. Only a small fraction ately sized venue for modestly popular local played Grand Rokk I was ecstatic. I was a “It’s still interesting to put into perspective of the area is being renovated anyway. There’s bands and the effects are already being felt. fairly recent Fall-convert and was very excited with the way Reykjavík has been advertis- still a lot of cheap housing available for these Benedikt Reynisson manages the Smekkleysa about the show, which in hindsight epitomised ing itself and the amount of hyperbole the purposes. Our music scene isn’t going any- record store and is also a local musician and much of what the whole Grand Rokk experi- music scene gets. They’re always bragging where.” DJ. He has also been known to book gigs for ence was about. The show was rowdy and about ‘Reykjavík, the culture city’, music this Music and nightlife events usually start around DILLON KAFFIBARINN 21:00, unless otherwise stated. Pubs close at 01:00 Madchester.is on weekdays and much, much later on weekends. SIRKUS Sólstafir in concert For those just wanting to party, the pubs and DILLON clubs don’t get crowded until after midnight on Thursday – 7 September weekends, although Thursday is a semi-official DJ Celeb night out. BARINN Grapevine Bad Taste Summer Series: Compiled by Steinunn Jakobsdóttir [email protected] Benni Hemm Hemm Saturday – 9 September Hljómsveit Sollu jazzband GALLERY LOBSTER OR FAME, RÓSENBERG starts at 17:00 Mood Bluesband Friday – 25 August RÓSENBERG DJ Steinarr Lár Grapevine Bad Taste Summer Series: Franz and Kristó live followed by DJ Kári VEGAMÓT Benni Hemm Hemm + guests Skítamórall in concert PRIKIÐ AMSTERDAM, starts at 21:00 NASA
Árni Sveins Thursday – 31 August Sunna Gunnlaugsdóttir Jazzquartet Rockabilly Riot at Bar 11: DJ Curver and KAFFIBARINN RÓSENBERG DJ Gulli Grapevine Bad Taste Summer Series: BAR 11 Misery Loves Company Reykjavík! RÓSENBERG GALLERY LOBSTER OR FAME, Friday – 8 September starts at 17:00 Sunday – 10 September The Telepathetics followed by DJ Palli Mood Bluesband Maus Grapevine Bad Taste Summer Series: RÓSENBERG Rockabilly Riot at Bar 11: Kings of Hell BAR 11 Reykjavík! + guests in concert AMSTERDAM, starts at 21:00 Rockabilly Riot at Bar 11: Kings of Hell BAR 11 DJs Gabriel & Dresden and Weapons in concert, followed by DJ BROADWAY DJ Frosti Gringo Curver and DJ Valdi SIRKUS BAR 11 DJ Heimir SIRKUS DJ Maggi Legó Hörður Torfa in concert PRIKIÐ BORGARLEIKHÚSIÐ Mammút in concert 12 TÓNAR (starts at 17:00) Nektar Jazzband in concert Alfons X HRESSÓ Reykjavík! DJ Gísli Galdur The Grapevine Bad Taste Concert Series will soon be coming to an end, but still enough great performances remain for our many music fans that have been partying hard at Am- sterdam every Thursday this summer. On 31 August, Reykjavík!, still celebrating the release of debut album Glacial Landscapes, Religion, Oppression and Alcohol, will be partying BARINN Einar Scheving Jazztrio RÓSENBERG at Smekkleysa at 17:00 and at Amsterdam at 22:00 the same night, together with some carefully picked guest appearances. Hressó Garden Party While the band is known for rumpus behaviour and extremely spicy performances onstage, the atmosphere might be a little quieter this time around as some of the band mem- HRESSÓ (starts at 22:00) DJ Þór bers are all scrambled after last week’s extreme playfulness. According to close sources they will at least try not to trash any guitars this time around. BARINN Those who can’t wait until the end of the month, Reykjavík! will be playing a gig at Stúdentakjallarinn tonight, Friday, 25 August, with Sprengjuhöllin and Dóri DNA. DJ Danni Deluxe and Paranoya Smekkleysa and Amsterdam, August 31 VEGAMÓT DJ Adda VEGAMÓT Pants Yell! from Boston in concert. Also playing are Dýrðin, The Foghorns and The Way Down Friday – 1 September AMSTERDAM Nuno and co. KAFFIBARINN Saturday – 26 August Mammút Once a girls-only trio, now a five-member, mixed-gender group growing in Eyjólfur Kristjánsson in concert sound as well as fan size, Mammút will be playing inside 12 Tónar record shop Summerjazz: Final concert in the sum- BORGARLEIKHÚSIÐ mer jazz series with KK, Sigurður Flo- on 25 August. In April this year, Mammút released their self-titled debut album, sason, Eyþór Gunnarsson and Valdimar DJ Pétur which was described by the Grapevine’s critic Sindri Eldon as: “A tight, power- Kolbeinn Sigurjónsson BARINN ful album blessed with true emotional quality and depth that belies the youth of JÓMFRÚIN (starts at 16:00) its creators.” Hraun in concert Despite the members’ young age (they are all under 20) Mammút have played Alfons X RÓSENBERG gigs all around Iceland as well as touring in Europe where critics have praised KAFFIBARINN their performances and emphasised on the band’s presumed prosperity in the Gulli Ósóma future. Bylgjan Birthday Celebration: Todmobile BAR 11 among many more Taking a stroll down Skólavörðustígur with a stop at the shop is a great oppor- tunity to catch a glimpse of what the praise is all about, and yeah, like all 12 Tónar NASA The German DJ Monika Kruse along with Exox and DJ Frímann concerts, it’s free, and you might even get to slurp on some red wine in plastic cups DJ Maggi Legó NASA Patti Smith while you’re there, also free. The concerts start at 17:00. BARINN The legendary pioneer Patti Smith fell for the country on her last visit and is on her MUSIC 12 Tónar, August 25 way to Iceland once again. After crowding NASA last time, leaving many dedi- Saturday – 2 September cated fans out in the cold, she has now chosen a new venue for the show, namely The Telepathetics, Ókind and Shadow Háskólabíó movie theatre. Together with guitarist Lenny Kaye she will be playing an Parade DJ Nuno unplugged concert on 5 September. Her fierce stage presence and unique voice will Íslenzk fyndni LOL djók, 22:30 Veggmyndir, 20:00 AMSTERDAM BARINN undoubtedly reveal a night to remember. Limited tickets are available. For more info Akureyri Theatrical Iðnó Company Vonarstræti 3 B8 visit: www.midi.is. 13.08.2006 Sessý and Sjonni followed by DJ Maggi Hafnarstræti 57, 600 Akureyri Best of Light Nights Íslenzk fyndni LOL djók, 22:00 Hraun in concert Háskólabíó, September 5 ELA HRESSÓ (starts at 22:00) www.leikfelag.is How Do You Like Iceland? ELA RÓSENBERG Lebanon is a good place for rebirth, 18:00 Little Shop of Horrors Iðnó restaurant is offering a special dinner Lebanon is a good place for rebirth, 24:00 Íslenska hreyfiþróunarsamsteypan Misery Loves Company Extra shows to be set up in Reykjavík at and a show deal. DJ Balli Meyjarheftið, 20:00 20.08.2006 RÓSENBERG the Icelandic opera in September. Tickets Between 18:00-20:00 guests can enjoy an KAFFIBARINN Brite Theatre ELA on sale now. Icelandic dinner buffet for 3,800 ISK. Kjöt, 22:00 Lebanon is a good place for rebirth, 20:00 DJ Jón Atli DJ Palli Maus On Mondays and Tuesdays, Iðnó is offering SIRKUS Broadway the dinner buffet plus the show Best of BAR 11 15.08.2006 The National Theatre Ármúla 9 Light Nights at 20:30 for 6,000 ISK. Brite Theatre Hverfisgata 19 Release gig with Benni B-Ruff www.broadway.is On Wednesdays, dinner and the show How DJ Benni Kjöt, 20:00 www.leikhusid.is PRIKIÐ Le Sing Do You Like Iceland? costs 5,300 ISK. VEGAMÓT Closed until August 28 A combination of dinner and a show; here 16.08.2006 DJ Jói the waiters are also the performers. Ó. Johnson & Kaaber Sarent The Reykjavík City Theatre VEGAMÓT Tuesday – 5 September húsið RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:No Listabraut 3 Iceland Dance Company Sætún 8 Subject, 18:00 www.borgarleikhus.is www.id.is for an up-to-date list of events ART-FART THEATRE FESTIVAL Gulli Ósóma Mannakorn release concert Íslenska hreyfiþróunarsamsteypan On the Main Stage BAR 11 by the Iceland Dance Company. BORGARLEIKHÚSIÐ Meyjarheftið, 20:00 11.08.2006 Footloose Icelandic Opera Veggmyndir B8 Ronia the Robber’s Daughter Bloodhound Gang in concert Íslenzk fyndni LOL djók, 22:00 Ingólfsstræti Veggmyndir, 20:00 Who Wants to Find a Million Krónur? Tuesday – 29 August LAUGARDALSHÖLL www.opera.is Sarent 17.08.2006 Closed for the summer The Settlement Centre DJ Krummi Patti Smith in concert RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:No Sarent Subject, 22:00 (Borgarnes) SIRKUS HÁSKÓLABÍÓ Iceland Symphony Or- RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:No http://landnam.is/tenglar/index_en.html Subject, 20:00 Mr. Skallagrímsson DJ Ernir chestra 12.08.2006 Phone: +354 562 2255 Íslenska hreyfiþróunarsamsteypan Brite Theatre Benedikt Erlingsson stars in a funny one- PRIKIÐ Kjöt, 22:00 Wednesday – 6 September www.sinfonia.is Meyjarheftið, 18:00 man retelling of the story of Egill Skalla- Programme begins in the autumn ELA grímsson, the infamous Icelandic Viking. Dillon Wednesday Concert Series: The 18.08.2006 The final shows are the last Friday, THEATre MUSIC Wednesday – 30 August Lebanon is a good place for rebirth, 20:00 Veggmyndir Telepathetics + guests B8 Saturday and Sunday in July at 20:00. CAFÉ RESTAURANTS 1 8 Tíu Dropar 15 Café Victor 22 Pravda 25 Ölstofan 28 Kaffibrennslan 31 34 Argentína 37 Tapas 44 Bæjarins Bestu Café Roma oaj]d]kk Laugavegur 27 Hafnarstræti 1-3 Austurstræti 22 Vegamótastígur Pósthusstræti 9 Barónsstígur 11a Vesturgata 3b Tryggvagata f]logjc Krua Thai Laugavegur 118 A very nice, old-fashioned café. It’s sub- Spelled with a C rather than the Icelandic Pravda is one of the biggest clubs/bars in Ölstofan is an unpretentious, comfort- Café, bistro, restaurant, bar – whatever Tryggvagata 14 Perennial favourite, Argentína is a fine Those with a bit of money and time on A veritable institution in central Reykja- terranean, as all traditional coffee shops K, presumably in an effort to seem more downtown Reykjavík, situated in one of able and straightforward place to do just you want to call it, Kaffibrennslan is a dining steak house. For whale-etarians, their hands would do well to spend an vík, and probably the most consistently Roma, at the far end of the main street This authentic Thai restaurant is one of should be, and this place makes you feel cosmopolitan. This ploy seems to be work- the more ideal locations for such an insti- that. It’s also known as a hangout for the consistently pleasant place to go for snacks you can also sample the local Minke, or evening or two at Tapas, having course successful business the city has seen, Laugavegur, is a deli-type coffee house, the better bargains in town. We challenge warm, both with its atmosphere and the ing, as the bar has become a hangout for tution in the city. It’s divided between two ‘intellectual’ circles of Reykjavík, as well as and refreshments of whatever variety you excellent fish. This restaurant has main- after course of wonderful miniature dishes Bæjarins Bestu is actually just a simple offering a variety of breads, soup and you to find a better meal for the same generosity of the coffee refills. older foreigners. The Viking ship sitting floors, although the distinction between some media types, the opposite of ‘intel- happen to crave. They also have the largest tained its reputation with three things: served to them. Oddly, it’s also a great hot dog stand. Their menu consists of hot tempting cookies, cakes and other sweet price anywhere else. They have their menu on top of the building might also add to the ambiance on the top and bottom floors lectual’ in this country. Music is almost selection of beers in Reykjavík. We recom- perfect cuts of meat, excellent service, and place to get tasty and affordable lobster. dogs and Coke – and nothing else. You things. Their special offers around lunch outside with numbered colour images. Just the appeal. The crowd is very mixed, both has faded away in recent times. never played at Ölstofan – so you can mend the Cobra and Staroprammen. an excellent wine list. If you don’t feel like getting up right away don’t have to be a Buddhist to ask them to time are always a bargain. say the number and eat the food. in origin and age, and so is the music. actually have a conversation. afterwards, there’s also a lounge. make you one with everything.
2 Ráðhúskaffi 9 Kaffitár 16 Vegamót 23 Café Cultura 26 Thorvaldsen 29 Glaumbar 32 Tveir Fiskar 35 Vín og Skel 38 Sægreifinn 45 Subway City Hall Bankastræti 8 Vegamótastígur 4 Hverfisgata 18 Austurstræti 8 Tryggvagata 20 Geirsgata 9 Laugavegur 55 Geirsgata Austurstræti Ráðhúskaffi, situated inside the Reykjavík This is the downtown store of one of the Vegamót (crossroads) has an appealing The trendy Café Cultura is located in the This place is fancy, and it knows it. Civil- Partly a sports bar, Glaumbar is also a Located right by the harbour, Tveir Fiskar If you like fresh seafood and are in the Places recommended for their local touch You know exactly what you get when you City Hall, is a comfortable choice for the country’s finest coffee importers, and the lunch menu, they serve brunch during the same building as the Intercultural Centre, ian attire is looked down upon, so don’t popular venue for live bands and DJs, but boasts some of the freshest fish in town mood for something a little different, this tend to instantly loses any element of the walk into a Subway restaurant, and their view over Tjörnin (the pond). It’s espe- quality of the product is as excellent as weekends, and the kitchen is open until and has a distinct international flavour. expect to get in wearing hiking boots. DJs mostly it’s just a good place to get drunk – they prefer it to still be moving when cosy but ambitious restaurant just might exotic, but Sægreifinn (The Sea Baron) is sub sandwiches are always made from cially convenient on Iceland’s so-called you would expect. While anything here is 22:00 daily. After that the beat goes on, A good-value menu, friendly service and play on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. and party. They can host private gather- they buy it. Their menu also dares to be fit the bill. Shellfish, salmon, squid, lobster an exception. It’s a combination of a fish fresh ingredients – right in front of your ‘window weather’ days – the days that are good, the speciality coffee drinks are truly and you can check the end results in pho- settings that allow you to either sit down Arrive before 12 if you want to avoid the ings before midnight on weekdays, and different, and this just might be your only and other creatures of the deep predomi- store and a... well, not exactly a restaurant eyes. Reasonably priced and far healthier only beautiful if you stay indoors. Coffee, remarkable: our favourite, the Azteca, an tos published the day after on their web- and carry on discussions, or dance the queue. you would be hard pressed to get a better chance to sample the debatable delights of nate the menu here. There is no smoking but a place that serves prepared food, than most alternatives – provided you light snacks, art exhibitions, Internet ac- espresso drink with lime and Tabasco. site www.vegamot.is. If you like Oliver, try night away. deal on a keg party than here. raw dolphin. in the restaurant, but if you want to have a located in a harbour warehouse. Smell of show some restraint when you order. cess, a topographic model of Iceland and Vegamót and vice versa. go at sitting outside there are fleece blan- fish, the view over the harbour, an old man municipal politics: all conveniently under kets provided. that looks exactly like an Icelandic fisher- Dji^c>XZaVcY the same roof. man should. What’s not to love?
3 Grái Kötturinn 10 Segafredo 17 B5 39 Shalimar 46 Nonnabiti DOWNTOWN REYKJAVIK Hverfisgata 16a By Lækjartorg Bankastræti 5 KRONKRON Austurstræti 4 Hafnarstræti 11 Grái Kötturinn (the grey cat) is a cosy Italian coffee chain Segafredo seems to be B5 is a bistro with a Scandinavian focus on 41 Prides itself on being the northernmost Almost certainly the best junk food in the place that’s especially popular during the doing brisk business by Lækjartorg, with the menu. Don’t be fooled by the impres- SPOTthis Indian/Pakistani restaurant in the world. Greater Reykjavík area, and extremely morning hours. Their breakfast is legend- locals and tourists alike flocking to sip sive collection of design classics that you Hafnarstræti 44 Their cooks know exactly what they are popular with drunken youths on week- ary, but they tend not to be open later in their espressos at the conveniently placed see in the window when passing by – it’s 33 doing with the spices and as a result we ends. This place has none of that Subway the day. A great place to nurse a hangover, tables outside. The staff are expert baristi, neither cold nor overly expensive, but 45 have given them two glowing reviews and commitment to healthy living, and they or just to start the workday. and, even though Iceland is proud of its rather a cosy place with friendly service. Austurstræti 46 42 a ‘Bezt í Heimi’ recommendation in the probably contribute significantly to the coffee, nobody quite tops the Segafredo 39 10 past. You can still see the latter article ever-increasing “size” of the nation. They latte. 26 hanging in their window – and we stand also serve burgers and sandwiches, and 6 by it. have lunchtime offers. 21 22 28 18 49 Bankas17 ->ÊV >À}Ê Ingólfsstræti 43 træ Ãi>v`ÊÀiÃÌ>ÕÀ>ÌÊ BARS 'N' BISTROS ti 11 3 4 Kaffi Hljómalind 11 18 Rósenberg 23 40 Við tjörnina 47 Hamborgarabúlla Ü V ÊvviÀÃÊÌ iÊLiÃÌÊ Laugavegur 21 Sólon Lækjargata 2 Lækjargata 9 Templarasund 3 Tómasar (Búllan) Hverfisgata Despite hosting the occasional rock con- Bankastræti 7a Perhaps the closest thing to a jazz club in 24 20 If you’re looking for high-quality food in a Geirsgata 1 Êv`Ê>`ÊÜi° Laugavegur19 cert, Kaffi Hljómalind is a peaceful café Sólon is a nightclub on Friday and Sat- town, here old instruments line the walls. unique but cosy setting it doesn’t get much with perfect windows for people watching People go there for conversation and to 5 14 better than Við Tjörnina (literally, By the Tómas originally popularised the ham- urday nights, but during the daytime it’s burger in Iceland when he opened his and a lot of daylight. It’s run by a non- a café/bistro. On weeknights they’re a listen to music rather than dance. The Pond). They’re known for their traditional Skólavörðustígur famous Tommaborgarar shop. A couple of profit organisation and only serves organic restaurant with a decent menu as well, and place tends to have jazz- or blues-type 13 living room décor and innovative fish tígur 8 & fair-trade products. It’s strictly a non- music, and is developing a bluegrass scene. 16 dishes made from a variety of fresh catch- decades and business ventures later he has an art exhibition on the walls to finish the Recently voted one of seven coolest concept renovated location at Laugavegur 63b this gone back to the basics and now has one smoking establishment. package. 25 es. The ambiance is something you have to shops in the world by Danish Magazine young store sells a selection of high-class 48 experience to truly appreciate. of the most popular fast food restaurants Eurowoman, fashion shop Kronkron truly fashion labels like Vivienne Westwood, downtown – affectionately known as Búl- Klappars lives up to the honor. Opened in 2004 Humanoid and Umbro as well as Icelandic 30 lan (the joint). and recently moved to a roomy and newly design by Eygló Margrét Lárusdóttir. /i«>À>ÃÕ`ÊÎ]£ä£Ê,iÞ>Û /i\Êxx£ÊnÈÈÈ FAST FOOD >\ÊÛ`ÌÀ>JÃiÌ°Ã 5 Mokka 12 Litli Ljóti 19 Grand Rokk 38 47 41 48 First Vegetarian Skólavörðustígur 3a Andarunginn Smiðjustígur 6 32 American Style (Á næstu grösum) Lækjargata 6b Kaffi Mokka is one of the oldest cafés As the Viking-style garden and logo accu- Tryggvagata 26 Laugavegur 20b in Reykjavík, dating back to the 1950s. Known for its all you can eat fish buffet, rately signal, this hardcore chess hangout 31 Famous for their burgers and fries, One of the first places in Reykjavík to Famous for their dark, smoky atmosphere, this restaurant/guesthouse is also a fine is no place for the weak. Yes, chess bars are American Style actually serves a variety of specialise in vegetarian and vegan dishes. loyal clientele and some of the best waffles place to sit down and relax with a latté or that tough in Iceland. Even if the down- 29 37 American-influenced dishes with a strong Despite having changed owners a couple in town. some beer when suffering from a case of stairs atmosphere can feel a bit ominous 27 local flavour. You get the feeling that you of years back, the quality has remained severe hipster-burn. at times, it’s one of the best venues for live 15 music in town. If you speak Icelandic you Austurstræti are expected to eat a great deal, so loosen consistent and you almost get the feeling can also take part in the pub quiz on Fri- your belt a bit before you dig in. that the place is being run on sheer prin- days at 17:30. Participation is free and the Bankastræ Ingólfsstræti ciple as much as anything else. winner walks away with a case of beer! ti Hverfisgata 40 12 SkólavörðustígurLaugav 2 36 Lækjargata egur 6 Ömmukaffi 13 Kaffibarinn 20 Bar 11 35 42 Pizza King 49 Kebabhúsið Austurstræti Bergstaðastræti 1 Laugavegur 11 43 4 Hafnarstræti 18 Lækjargata 2 Tjarnargata 34 The name literally means “grandma’s cof- Kaffibarinn has a reputation as a hangout While the place is only open on the Most people get to know Pizza King after Some of the best fish and chips in town fee shop,” but here you can find people for artists and others who think they are weekends, Bar 11 is a popular rock bar Þingholtsstræti 7 a late-night drinking session leaves them can be found at Kebabhúsið, and they ob- of all ages and all nationalities. It has a hip. Friday and Saturday nights serve as on Laugavegur and one of the main late- Bergstaðastræti tired and hungry downtown, and it truly viously have a selection of kebabs as well. very friendly, down-to-earth feel to it. the weekly peaks of claustrophobia, while night party venues in town. You’ll feel the Frakkastígur is a lifesaver in those situations. The dif- The falafel comes recommended, despite Affordable prices on coffee, cakes and the weekdays and afternoons can be comfort- floor jumping every Friday and Saturday, Óðinsgata ference between Pizza King and some less being a relatively unappreciated menu lunch menu. Try their speciality, the South able, if banal. and it’s neither you nor an earthquake. 1 savoury fast food options downtown is item in Iceland, and the beef and lamb African latte. Live concerts and a nice foosball table that you would be happy to go back to eat pitas are quite good as well. upstairs. there while sober, and their special lunch offers make that a very attractive options. Barónsstígur
7 Babalú 14 Sirkus 21 Hressingarskálinn 24 Prikið 27 Kaffi Amsterdam 30 Dillon 33 Hornið 36 Tjarnarbakkinn 43 Bernhöftsbakarí 50 Vitabar Skólavörðustígur 22a Klapparstígur 30 Austurstræti 20 Bankastræti 12 Hafnarstræti 5 Laugavegur 30 Hafnarstræti 15 Vonarstræti 3 Bergstaðastræti 13 Bergþórugata 21 One of the youngest coffeehouses in Of absolutely no relation to the trashy The celebrated site of one of the more Prikið has changed noticeably in char- Kaffi Amsterdam is a cosy tavern located Legendary Icelandic rockers have been Means “the corner” and the place lives up Tjarnarbakkinn is right above the Iðnó The oldest bakery in Reykjavík, founded Actually a bar, but best known for its ham- Reykjavík is also the homiest. Almost like culture guide, or trashy TV station that famous coffeehouses in Iceland, this bar/ acter in recent years, as it used to be an in the centre of Reykjavik. Known mostly known to DJ at this place from time to to its name by… well, being on a corner. theatre, so it’s an ideal place to go before in 1834. If you are particular about your burgers. A burger with fries for 500 is one a living room away from home, Babalú stole its name, Sirkus is worshipped like café/bistro brings a European flair to the old-fashioned and traditional downtown for its rambling late-hour drinking crowd, time, and Þröstur from Mínus has even This is actually the oldest Italian restau- shows, or during if you prefer a more quiet bread this is about the best place in cen- of the best meal deals in town, but special keeps it simple, quiet and cosy with coffee few other locales in Iceland. Elements of city. That is until about 11, when things coffeehouse. Somehow the younger crowd Amsterdam recently established itself as a tended the bar. You can pretty much guar- rant in town, celebrating its 27th year, and atmosphere. If you sit by the window tral Reykjavík to stock up on a variety mention must go to the Forget-Me-Not and the occasional crêpe. the odd and alternative cultural institu- get to rockin’, and you can see the true caught on and transformed the place to its fresh new venue for the city’s music talent. antee this place will be rocking any time it always seems to be consistently popular. you get nice view of the pond, and in the of freshly baked loaves – they also do a blue cheese and garlic extravaganza. tion include an upstairs that looks and character of Reykjavík. present form: a diner during the day and you walk in on a Friday or Saturday night. Excellent quality pizza, pasta and salads – summers you can enjoy your meal outside. particularly moist and juicy version of the smells like a bus, a garden, a flea market a rowdy nightclub on weekends. You can all priced affordably. The lamb comes especially recommended; ever popular vínarbrauð pastries. You can and a queue on weekend nights that looks also borrow board games there, such as it’s one of those rare traditional Icelandic even call ahead and have your favourite never-ending. backgammon or chess, and it is a popular dishes that aren’t an acquired taste. items reserved, if you’re afraid someone breakfast spot early in the morning. else might beat you to that last snúður or kleina.
D E INDIAN - PAKISTANI CUISINE THE ORIGINAL EASTERN TASTE IN THE WEST AUSTURSTRÆTI 4, Tel: 551 0292 www.shalimar.is The Grapevine lists exhibitions from galler- Klapparstígur 33 Sat.-Sun. 14- 17 RADIO TV ies throughout Iceland. If you would like to be Tue.-Fri. 11-17 08.04-03.12.06 Free Entrance included, free of charge, contact the Grapevine by Sat. and by appointment 13-17 Let’s Look at Art: A series of exhibitions www.safn.is Rokkland – Rás 2 Melrose Place Rás 1 Love Monkey email at [email protected]. www.i8.is especially designed for children Skjár 1 has been re-running the classic Compiled by Valgerður Þóroddsdóttir Government radio station often featur- In which radio personality and Bubbi fan This stupidly titled TV series has been 12.08-03.09.06 ing talk shows, radio soap operas, and Óli Palli translates interviews from the described as Sex in the City for men. I Melrose Place after midnight this sum- 14.09-21.10.06 24.06-17.09.06 Sean Shanahan, Alan Johnston, Ragna traditional music. BBC. This is actually one of the few Ice- saw an episode the other day and can mer; a veritable godsend if you happen to 101 Gallery Hildur Bjarnadóttir Summer Exhibition from the Permanent Róbertsdóttir landic radio shows that actively attempt safely attest that the show is indeed set be an unemployed stoner or working the Hverfisgata 18 Collection Rás 2 to present new and interesting music, in a city and does involve some sex. It graveyard shift at a hospital. The show Thu.-Sat. 14-17 and by appointment Icelandic Labour Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum More progressive government radio sta- although the show’s source of material stars Ed actor Tom Cavanagh as a music serves as a reminder of just how obnoxious Union’s Art Gallery Reykjavík Museum Laugarnestangi 70 tion, featuring a variety of music as well as tends to focus on Coldplay and their ilk, scout looking for love and success in the and, well, plain evil humans can be at 28.07-02.09.06 Freyjugata 41 Kistuhylur 4 Tue.-Sun. 14-17 news discussion programmes. along with the NME’s current hype of seemingly exciting world of indie-rock. their worst. It also features some pretty Serge Comte Tue.-Sun. 13-17 June-August 10-17 the month. The interviews are usually He has some fairly likeable male friends hot babes and dudes with weird haircuts, Free Entrance www.arbaejarsafn.is Permanent exhibition of the work of Bylgjan (98.9 FM) informative and they are broadcast in (one of them is actually 90s hunk Jason along with the occasional revelatory plot The Einar Jónsson Mu- sculptor Sigurjón Ólafsson both English and Icelandic. Rás 2 really point. Really, if you’re disappointed with Light pop music. Priestley!) and they have some problems seum 19.08-10.09.06 Closed in September. ought to have a similar show focusing on your current situation, watching middle- Eiriksgata that need a 40-minute resolution, too. Alexandra Signer & Tumi Magnússon Photography in the Útvarp Saga (99.4 FM) Icelandic music, however. Most involve women. It features some OK class folk plotting to murder one another Tue.-Sun. 14-17 The Reykjavík Museum Streets of Downtown over their love lives can really help put www.skulptur.is Iceland’s oldies station, featuring both Ice- music, and the jokes weren’t half bad. So, Kling & Bang Gallery of Photography landic and foreign music from decades past. Zúúber – FM 957 you have what looks like a fine set-up for things into perspective. Bonus titbit: Reykjavík Laugavegur 23 Grófarhús, Tryggvagata 15, 6th floor The Reykjavík Museum of Photography I really shouldn’t write a word about this a comedy series. Too bad they cancelled it Generation X author Douglas Coupland Permanent exhibition of the work of Thu.- Sun. 14-18 Weekdays 12-19 is celebrating its 25th anniversary with Talstöðin (90.9 FM) show. I’m just going to come off as a bitter almost immediately. Enjoy, while you can. has made a point out of complaining that sculptor Einar Jónsson Free Entrance Sat.-Sun. 13-17 a photographic look back at the past Talk radio station, in Icelandic. outcast who doesn’t enjoy participating in the whole Melrose Place plateau was www.this.is/klingandbang century of life in the capital. These ret- society’s vast pleasures. “Zúúber is a really highly derivative of his famous début The Culture House 01.06-24.09.06 Hverfisgata 15 rospectives are on display in Lækjartorg, Létt 96.7 (96.7 FM) funny show,” they’ll say, “You should give novel. It’s kind of weird actually, con- CLOSED until Photography by Andrés Kolbeinsson Open daily 11-17 Austurvöllur and Fógetagarður. Office pop, easy listening. it a chance.” Well, I did. It was awful. sidering his protagonists just sat around 14.10-05.11.06 I barely managed to get through their talking the whole time. www.thjodmenning.is Hrafnhildur Arnardóttir & New York Safn Continues on page 33 FM 957 (95.7 FM) eight-song playlist’s rotation, so appalled artists Laugavegur 37 29.06.06-27.02.07 One of the “hnakkistöðvar,” playing pop- was I by the presenters’ obvious and utter Wed.-Fri. 14-18 rock geared towards urban clubbing youth. ignorance of everything good and decent Icelandic Fashion 2006 Living Art Museum in the world. I heard them mispronounce Laugavegur 26 Permanent Exhibits XFM (91.9FM) names, both English and Icelandic. I Wed., Fri.-Sun. 13-17 Medieval Manuscripts; The National Iceland’s rock station, often playing cut- heard them make factual errors, repeat- Thu. 13-22 Museum- as it was; The Library Room ting-edge releases. edly. I heard them tell what I can only www.nylo.is assume were supposed to be jokes. Mostly Lindin (102.9 FM) I just heard people that obviously couldn’t Dwarf Gallery 12.08-03.09.06 Grundarstígur 21 Christian broadcasting station, available all be bothered preparing for their job at all. Pétur Már Gunnarsson, Johann Maheut, tv & RADIO Opening Hours Vary over the country. Toshinari Sato http://this.is/birta WWW.GRAPEVINE.IS
The National Gallery NEWS | PODCASTS | ALL BACKISSUES | LISTINGS Gallery 100 Degrees Fríkirkjuvegur Bæjarháls 1 Tue.-Sun. 11-17 Mon.-Fri. 8:30-16 Free Entrance www.or.is/Forsida/Gallery100 Thank You for Smoking www.listasafn.is
Garfield A movie portraying the action-packed Gallerí Anima 08.07-24.09.06 Ingólfsstræti 8 www.gljufrasteinn.is This wittily titled sequel is sure to set lives of U.S. alcohol, firearm and Landscape and folklore Reykjavík’s theatres ablaze with the tobacco-lobbyists sounds interest- Wed.-Sat. 13-17 joyful laughter of sugar-fuelled brats, ing enough, if properly executed. The The National Museum 18.08-09.09.06 making it an obvious pick for Iceland’s trailer for this one looks kind of prom- Suðurgata 41 Bára Kristinsdóttir famously hung-over brand of “weekend ising and it’s reportedly based on some Open daily 10-17 dads”. The adventurous people behind novel, so it might even feature a plot (a www.natmus.is/english this second feature length exploitation rare sight in Iceland’s multiplexes these Gallery Fold Rauðarárstígur 14-16 of cartoon-cat Garfield somehow came days). This alleged plot revolves around Temporary Exhibitions: Mon.-Fri. 10-18 up with the idea of setting it in the a Big Tobacco spokesman trying to Photography from Iceland, 1938 Sat. 11-16 U.K. – likely the source of various ac- raise a 12-year-old son with integrity Invisible women in Icelandic art Sun. 14-16 cent-based jokes and royalty references. while feeding his evil, filthy lies to the Archaeological research and Iceland’s new www.myndlist.is Starring the adorable Breckin Meyer public. Directed by Ivan Reitman’s son view of history and Jennifer Love Hewitt along with and featuring a performance from the the voice talents of Bill Murray, Gar- ever-gorgeous Rob Lowe, Thank You Gallerí Sævars Karls Permanent Exhibitions: Bankastræti 7 field: A Tail of Two Kitties is definitely for Smoking just might prove to be a The Making of a Nation a must-see for fans of wooden acting worthwhile thing to see on a Sunday http://www.saevarkarl.is and CGI-based shenanigans. HM night. HM The Nordic House Current exhibition: Sturlugata 5 Rudolf L. Reiter The Ant Bully Lady in the Water erland, Eva Longoria and Kim Basinger. Superman Returns Tue.-Sun. 12-17 Smárabíó, Laugarásbíó, Borgarbíó www.nordice.is/english Julia Roberts, Nicolas Cage and Bruce M. Night Shyamalan’s latest film stars The Man of Steel resumes kicking ass af- Gallery Turpentine Campbell (!) lend their voices to this Paul Giamatti as a building superintend- ter two decades of being a lazy, paralysed Ingólfsstræti 5 30.07-30.09.06 CGI-flick about a man who shrinks and ent determined to save a strange woman Silent Hill bitch. Tue.-Fri. 12-18 Ilmur Stefánsdóttir & Steinunn has to work in an ant colony. he finds in his pool. A woman searching for her daughter Laugarásbíó, Sambíóin Álfabakka Sat. 11-16 Knútsdóttir Sambíóin Kringlunni, Sambíóin Álfabakka, somehow ends up fighting off a huge www.turpentine.is August 25th. The Break Up Háskólabíó army of monsters in a deserted town. United 93 18.08-10.09.06 Næsti Bar Jennifer Aniston and Vince Vaughn star Smárabíó, Borgarbíó, Sambíóin Keflavík This first of the 9/11 feature films, this Aron Reyr Sverrisson in this romantic comedy. The Long Weekend one attempts to give a real-time account Ingólfsstræti 1a Háskólabíó Two brothers, one a nerd, the other a Snakes on a Plane of the events on board United Flight 93, 19.08-05.09.06 Regular exhibitions by local artists playboy, with very different goals in life, Yeah, snakes on a plane. where passengers foiled the terrorist plot. Alistair Macintyre Click spend a weekend together, ending in all Smárabíó, Regnboginn, Laugarásbíó, Reykjavík 871 +/- 2 : The Adam Sandler’s latest comedic vehicle, kinds of stupidity. Borgarbíó You, Me and Dupree Gel Gallerí telling the story of a man with a remote Sambíóin Álfabakka Owen Wilson stars as a best man who Hverfisgata 37 Settlement Exhibition control that can affect reality itself. Stormbreaker overstays his welcome at Matt Dillon and Mon.-Fri. 10-19 Aðalstræti 16 Open daily 10-17 Regnboginn Miami Vice Ewan McGregor, Mickey Rourke and Kate Hudson’s house. Sat. 10-17 Based on the TV series, undercover cops Alicia Silverstone together in an adven- Reykjavík Art Museum Garfield: Crockett and Tubbs return and chase ture film about a teenage super-spy who 01.08- ? Miami drug dealers around in fancy suits Aron Bergman A Tail of Two Kitties ends up working for MI6. Visit www.kvikmyndir.is for regularly and fast cars. Warning: Colin Farrell is in Laugarásbíó, Sambíóin Keflavík Ásmundur Sveinsson Lovable cartoon cat Garfield frolics in updates on new films and showtimes. Sculpture Museum England. Some castles are involved. this movie. Gerðuberg Sambíóin Álfabakka, Sambíóin Kringlunni, Sigtún Cultural Centre Open daily 10-16 Smárabíó, Laugarásbíó, Borgarbíó Gerðuberg 3-5 Five Children and It Regnboginn Háskólabíó Laugarásbíó Admission ticket is valid on the same day Featuring the voice talent of Eddie Izzard for all three museums. Hverfisgata 54 Hagatorgi Laugarási 08.14-10.09.06 as a Sand Fairy, this English fairytale A Prairie Home www.listasafnreykjavikur.is 101 Reykjavík 107 Reykjavík 104 Reykjavík Sculptures by Guðjón Stefán Kristinsson; movie also stars Kenneth Branagh. Companion Tel. 551-9000 Tel. 525-5400 Tel. 565-0118 Acrylic portraits by Jón Ólafsson; paint- Sambíóin Kringlunni, Sambíóin Álfabakka, Singing sisters, suicide-obsessed girl, Hafnarhús cruel businessman, cowboys and a radio ings by Ketill Larsen Sambíóin Akureyri Sambíóin Kringlubíó Sambíóin Akureyri Tryggvagata 17 25. ágúst. host in a comedy revolving around the Álfabakka 8 Kringlunni 4-12 Ráðhústorgi Open daily 10-17 famous radio show A Prairie Home Com- Gyllinhæð Half Light 109 Reykjavík 103 Reykjavík 600 Akureyri Laugavegur 23 panion. Regnboginn 10.06.06-07.01.07 Demi Moore in a supernatural thriller Tel. 575-8900 Tel. 575-8900 Tel. 461-4666 Thu.-Sun. 14-18 where she plays a writer who runs into The Erró Collection: Graphic Works The Sentinel all kinds of ghosts while on vacation. Smárabíó Selfossbíó Nýja-Bíó Students from the second year of the A traitor in the Secret Service stirs things Kjarvalsstaðir Sambíóin Akureyri Smáralind Eyrarvegur 2 Hafnargata 33 Academy
up as the president’s life is in danger. ART FILM 201 Kópavogur 800 Selfoss 230 Reykjanesbær Flókagata Starring Michael Douglas, Kiefer Suth- Tel. 564-0000 Tel. 482-3007 Tel. 421-1170 i8 Gallery Open daily 10-17 >>>OUTSIDE REYKJAVÍK Suðsuðvestur Hafnargata 22 SEYÐISFJÖRÐUR: Thu.-Fri. 16-18 Sat.-Sun. 14-17 Skaftfell www.sudsudvestur.is www.skaftfell.is AKUREYRI: 26.08-24.09.06 Guðný Rósa Ingimarsdóttir & DaLí gallerí Gauthier Hubert Brekkugata 9 Mon.-Sat. 14-18 Hótel Öldunni 01.06-26.08.06 Fígúrur í koníaksstofunni Joris Rademaker gjess (Guðjón Sigvaldason) Gallerí + HAFNARFJÖRÐUR: Brekkugata 35 (Closed for the summer) Hafnarborg Mon.-Sun. 11-17 Jónas Viðar Gallery www.hafnarborg.is Fri.-Sat. 13-18
08.07-28.08.06 Akureyri Art Museum “Hin blíðu Hraun” Kaupvangsstræti 12 Jóhannes Kjarval Tue.-Sun. 12-17 www.listasafn.akureyri.is KEFLAVÍK:
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My Brother’s Environment In 1970, at the age of 25, Páll S. Kristinsson moved from Iceland to the United States, never to return again. After his death last February, his sister Bára Kristinsdóttir visited and photographed his home and surroundings in Jupiter, Florida, where he spent the greater half of his life. The collection of photographs, titled “My Brother’s Environment” documents Bára’s unique perspective on a world dramatically distant from her own. Gallerí Anima (Ingólfsstræti 8) Wednesday-Saturday, 13-17. Until September 9
Video-instalments A video instalment titled “Video-instal- ments” by artists Aleksandra Signer and Tumi Magnússon is on display now in the Ásmund room and the pit at the Icelandic Labour Union’s Art Gallery. The exhibition is a collaborative effort between Polish Signer, who will be displaying five pieces that she worked on between 1997-2006, and Icelandic Magnússon, who will be displaying his recent video work on four screens. In 1973 Signer attended the Art University in Warsaw, and she has Alistair Macintyre worked in Gallen, Swiss since 1977, “Drawing has been defined as the archaeology of the act of touching mainly in video, which often reflects her a surface. In recent work I have been trying to push this notion to an political sentiments. extreme, taking scales and speeds of touch – and the location of touch in How did it all begin? Magnússon was born in Reykjavík time – and polarising them out to the limits of their range.” Multimedia techniques bring but studied visual art in Holland. He For his large drawings, Reykjavík-based artist Alistair Macin- Step into Reykjavík’s past to life, providing worked as a professor at the Iceland tyre utilises time-sensitive mediums such as iron oxide on paper. His visitors with insights into how Academy of the Arts between 1999- sketches become strangely alive as, in taking inspiration both literally people lived in the Viking Age, and 2005 before being offered a professor- and figuratively from the natural environment, they attempt to represent what the Reykjavík environment ship at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts fragments of time and ideas stencilled onto paper like fossils. looked like to the first settlers. in Copenhagen. After working with After getting a diploma in landscape architecture from Chelten- the Viking Age The Settlement Exhibition 871±2 painting for most of his career, Magnús- ham College in the U.K., Macintyre switched over to the fine arts, is located at Aðalstræti 16 son has recently begun experimenting graduating with honours and a major in sculpture eight years later. He with photography, video and computer then attended Kuvataideakatemia in Helsinki, and the School of Art Reykjavík City Museum technology. and Design at Glamorgan University. Currently he lives and works in www.reykjavik871.is Icelandic Labour Union’s Art Gallery Reykjavík. (Freyjugata 41) Tuesday-Sunday, 13- Gallery Turpentine (Ingólfstræti 5) Tuesday-Friday, 12-18. Until Sep- art 17. Until October 9 tember 5 Between ISK 1000 Between ISK 2500 we recommend 34 $ Under ISK 1000 $ $ and ISK 2500 $ $ $ and ISK 4000 $ $ $ $ Over ISK 4000 WWW.GRAPEVINE.IS DINING, EATING NEWS | BACK ISSUES | PODCASTS | LISTINGS | REVIEWS & GRUBBING Gunnar Hrafn Jónsson on Reykjavík Dining Photos by Gúndi and Skari
Sjávarkjallarinn The staff was attentive, and not afraid to The dessert menu arrived in the form of a smile. They rose to the challenge of describ- billboard-sized plaque that looked as comi- Aðalstræti 2 ing the sometimes ridiculously wide variety of cally oversized as those cheques one only sees Tel.: 511-1212 fancy-sounding ingredients without missing at award ceremonies and charity events. As a beat. The sashimi and nigri on the starter unwieldy as the thing was to hold at the table, menu turned out to be a clue to the fact that the sorbet and wild-cacao bean soufflé we $ $ $ $ one of the main influences on the chefs at Sjá- picked out from it were both mind-blowing. varkjallarinn is Asian cuisine. Practically eve- The wild-cacao bean is a notoriously danger- Sjávarkjallarinn roughly translates to “the sea rything was served with (or on) exotic looking ous creature, and fights to the death when cellar”, but don’t let the name fool you – this leaves and delicate bamboo ornaments. Some cornered, so it is a testament to the profession- isn’t a hangout for drunken sailors but surely of the less recognisable ingredients turned alism and dedication of the staff that they risk one of the finest seafood restaurants in Rey- out to be of Asian origin as well. The fusion life and limb to apprehend this elusive but deli- kjavík. Their two celebrated chefs have each works unbelievably well. The HUGE lobster cious prey. All kidding aside, it was delicious. won the ‘Icelandic Chef of the Year’ award and platter my dining partner was presented with, Overall, we were greatly impressed with they have two junior champions as apprentices. for example, contained such things as wasabi Sjávarkjallarin and the prices were surpris- Arriving on a Sunday evening to find the place and cream sauce. It was truly a feast. My tuna ingly fair, considering the artistry involved in packed and customers being turned away, we steak with king crab was served tandoori style the creation of each dish (eating them really felt a tinge of guilt but were further reassured with satay sauce and god knows what else – the does feel like trashing a masterpiece) – and the that this place would provide us with one of the flavours came at me from all directions and I obvious demand. better dining experiences available in the city. couldn’t have been more satisfied. Traditional Fish, Northern Style
for raw dolphin at Tveir Fiskar. menu. That consists of garlic butter, various Tveir Fiskar As it turns out, raw dolphin carpaccio is really unnamed spices, and bread. Considering the by bart cameron Geirsgata 9 quite good. It was prepared just like the more ingredients and the class of the restaurant, traditional beef variety, and the combination the result was unsurprisingly delicious. Tel.: 511-3474 Across Iceland, there are dozens of Bezt í Heimi is a recommenda- of flavours was exciting but not as ‘differ- The skyr tiramisu didn’t seem to contain legendary establishments that justify tion we only give to places that are ent’ as one might expect. The other starter, a a lot of skyr, but was still a damn fine dessert. lengthy pilgrimages through the the best of their type in the friggin $ $ $ bouillabaisse seafood soup, was good but a bit The chocolate soufflé with mango sorbet was most imposing of driving condi- world. Honestly, it takes more than on the greasy side. This is a definite trend in equally impressive. The only problem with tions. The first that comes to mind just well-prepared fish to earn such The Grapevine’s food critic was recently chal- Icelandic seafood cuisine of late, but excessive the restaurant is the way the main dining area is the storied Við Fjöruborðið, the a label. The great Ísafjörður summer lenged, by a clown no less, to find dolphin oil can sometimes make a soup too demand- is set up. When you first arrive you are seated lobster restaurant in Stokkseyri that restaurant has the little extra that on the menu of an Icelandic restaurant. His ing to properly serve as a starter. in an extremely comfortable environment has made a lobster and Brennivín the Grapevine staff has to reward: it reasoning was that while the locals are non- Our main courses were salted fish with comfortable couches, a well-stocked bar addict out of Dave Grohl and the has a likeable staff, a lack of preten- chalant about eating whale, they might think (bacalao) in almond and parmigiano crust and even artificial northern lights shining Foo Fighters. Við Fjöruborðið is sion and an excellent relationship twice about scarfing down the cuter and sil- with tomato vinaigrette, and lobster in garlic, above. You can in fact choose to remain there adored because people throughout with its community. lier sea mammals that most people associate respectively. The fish was quite different from until your dinner arrives, but once you move southern Iceland know exactly what Take our visits to Tjöruhúsið in with theme parks and children’s TV. In fact, what Icelanders think of when you say salted into the dining area the contrast becomes ap- to expect from the chefs there: the last week, when we were touring they are often nicknamed “clowns of the sea.” fish – and that is a very good thing indeed. parent. That minor gripe aside, Tveir Fiskar good, fresh lobster, prepared in the the country. When we first stopped Not wanting to shrink from the challenge, The dish had a pronounced Mediterranean is a great place to get expertly prepared, fresh traditional style. The added bonus is in for plokkfiskur, we walked in The Grapevine’s intrepid staff made some feel. The lobster, or langoustine for the pur- fish. the complete lack of pretension that on a gang of marauding pop punk phone calls and arranged to take the jester out ists, was served ‘the old way’, according to the comes with dining in a working, rockers hanging from the rafters. thriving small town. The band was called Lack of Talent, and a mix of privacy and intimacy; there are with the white wine that the friendly and In this same league is the and the chef, waitress, and quite a Við Tjörnina only a couple of tables per room in just a few helpful waiter recommended. Ísafjörður restaurant Tjöruhúsið. few older clientele were enjoying Located in the Ísafjörður Maritime the show over fish and chilled white Templarasundi 3 rooms. We were already sold on this being one Museum, the restaurant does its wine. Tel.: 551-8666 On the subject of the actual food and of the best meals of our lives when the main service, it’s equally hard to comment without courses arrived – a honey-roasted spotted first job right: it serves traditional To see such an occasion is to BERGSTAÐASTRÆTI 13 having it sound like a sales pitch: they are catfish in red wine sauce and another kind of local food simply and well. In this assume that Tjöruhúsið is some kind $ $ $ just that good. catfish sautéed in butter. Both were beyond case, though, you don’t get lobster, of product of a gourmet hippie com- - PHONE: 551 3083 After we were seated and provided with words, cooked to perfection and seasoned by but Iceland’s real staples: haddock mune. But to see it the next night, As soon as you enter you know this is no bread that seemed to be right out of the the Gods. The red wine sauce may have been and cod, presented best in plok- for a local saltfish celebration, when ordinary establishment. For one thing, it oven, we ordered a starter of seafood soup a tad thin for my tastes, but that’s so petty it’s kfiskur, the mashed dish that should we were the only visitors without looks like a fancy version of the stereotypi- and smoked guillemot, which is a bird native a bit like saying Gandhi is your hero but you be the pride of the Icelandic cooking ties, was to realise the flexibility of Oldest bakery in Iceland cal Icelandic grandma’s house. The furniture to Iceland, just as practically all the other don’t like the bald look – a minor detail. tradition. the staff, and the genuine cool of the and the décor are all more reminiscent of items on the menu seemed to be. Suffice to Lastly, the dessert didn’t let the rest of the If you want to really enjoy fish, restaurant. a well-to-do mid-fifties household than a say both were brilliant; I actually slurped the meal down. I ordered the skyr, and much to and forget about the fact that you’re In all, in two days in Ísafjörður, restaurant, but it’s the architecture that really remains of the soup up from the bowl when my delight it was served exactly the way my eating something healthy and that the Grapevine consumed three since 1834 highlights this unique theme. It really did no one was looking. Just as we were finishing grandmother in Skagafjörður used to present people tell you to eat, then you have meals at Tjöruhúsið. After two use to be a well-to-do household and rather up, the head chef came out with a mischie- it for special occasions. to hit up Tjöruhúsið… oh wait, this days of constant fish consump- than totally remodelling and knocking down vous grin and two plates, each holding a recommendation doesn’t work for tion, a healthy pallor started to the walls the owners kept it more or less divine portion of what appeared to be garlic- a place located in the most remote come through on our skin, and the intact. The result is a uniquely homey feel sautéed lobster and scallop. It went perfectly major town in Iceland. Fine. But omega oils began to make us feel, it’s worth scheduling your visit to not giddy, but not so hateful. We northern Iceland around this estab- came to a shocking realisation that lishment, just as a visit to Reykjavík if we had this place in Reykjavík, we should make room for a 45-minute would move in. drive to Stokkseyri.
Travel Guides Can Be Honest. Really Available at your nearest bookstore 36 recreation poetry Nýhil Poetry in the Grapevine: Haukur Már Helgason
Haukur Már Helgason is no stranger to the Grapevine – he was the first Icelandic writer I hired after taking over as editor, and he wrote a scathing critique of the arts scene in Iceland called Screaming Masterpiece for my second issue.
When he isn’t shaping debate on the arts in local magazines, he teaches around the country, and he publishes po- etry with the group he helped found, Nýhil. Instead of submitting a translation of his poetry, Helgason has instead constructed… something else entirely. All in keeping with a man who once served as the Grapevine’s Existential- ist Restaurant Reviewer. BC
A fragment from La Dolce fucking Vita
So, right after a successful suicide attack on your office, in your safe absence, you will feel very free. It will be a magnificent and glorious feeling, but that feeling, on its own, only lasts a while, a very short while, indeed, a while that will be on the verge of a moment, after which you will hardly realise a while has lasted and gone at all and after which you will nonetheless have to shake your head, and take action to secure your lasting freedom. For that pur- pose you have two options. Either you can pretend that you actually were in your office at the time the incident took place and thus leave the world entirely, starting anew in another continent. This will, of course, limit your actions COME TO THE a bit, a lot, even, what with the internet and everything; as you are, in all likelihood, too lazy, too decent and/or too disconnected from the most advanced criminal and/or subversive underground to forge new ID, you will have NORTHERNMOST INDIAN-PAKISTANI to suffice with laying low in the public arena, for decades, or until you, for some reason or another, might desire to CUISINE AND GET YOUR SHARE OF actually return to your first life, your life as you now know it, at great cost, emotional and otherwise.
(Don’t mind about me, I love you but it will be all right.) “UNIQUE SHALIMAR” MEMORIES TO SAVOR. Either you do that or you have the patience to collect all the sympathy and benefits offered you from others, from your neighbours, friends and family, your commune, your country, your foreign allies, and then make use of that sympathy and those benefits, to start anew, with the extreme advantage of a budget and a passport. Those two things do make life easier, in as far as despair is not the issue.
If you despair to the point of losing your soul there is nothing I can do for you, but life is probably easier and more enjoyable without a soul anyway so there should be nothing to regret.
If you don’t mind me saying so, I’ll recommend you go to Iceland. It is miraculously easy to start bank accounts there, and the locals are known to be quite promiscuous. INDIAN INDIAN LUNCH DINNER 950.- INDIAN - PAKISTANI CUISINE 1190.- The text was written in English, for one on one performances in small spaces, cosy or claustrophobic. Flexible, Greased Up Comedy AUSTURSTRÆTI 4, Tel. 551 0292 www.shalimar.is Chippendales strip for Icelandic women at Broadway
by steinunn jakobsdóttir
“Where are my dirty, horny women!?!” a have expected, and the term “sexy” wouldn’t down to their thongs and squeezing their verse and while some girls in the crowd found tanned and muscular man wearing only a exactly describe what I was about to witness. buttocks. Incredible. the greased men to be the hottest thing on the black G-string, shoes and a collar shouted into After a very long intro in which one guy As mentioned above, the audience got the planet, others were just in it for a laugh, and a microphone, resulting in treble screaming, bounced around in his underwear trying opportunity to participate in the show and those who don’t like seeing stripping guys just shaking bodies and wine glasses flying throu- to warm up the crowd before the real deal, they didn’t have to ask the girls twice. Sc- didn’t attend that night. Watching their goofy gh the air. the show started with a man wearing a suit rambling for a time in the spotlight, the girls moves and judging by the feedback I think the The noise didn’t diminish when he walking onto the stage. He was introduced rushed on stage for the joy of grabbing some majority in the audience was laughing at them continued by telling the girls in the audience as a normal guy who had just arrived home bums and stroking sweaty abs, ready to party and the whole idea instead of being crazily they were all virgins again for the night. With after a long day at the office. As expected hard with the Chippendales – who weren’t turned on by the show. no husbands, boyfriends or fiancés, they were after a difficult workday, he climbed on top afraid to grope their breasts. The guys seemed to be enjoying themsel- told they were also all very single and about of the desk, took his clothes off nice and slow One moment that summed up the evening ves pretty well on stage as well as when ming- to witness something they had never seen and, with his hand in the crotch of his pants, was when the Chippendales started their se- ling with locals at Sirkus attending the Mínus before. Getting the crowd ready for a night started humping the air while blasting techno arch for the horniest table in the house while concert the next night (wearing clothes). I of contentment and satisfaction he yelled out: music. As he covered his dick with a towel, begging the women to take some Chippenda- don’t see the harm in that. “Let’s open your hearts, minds and souls for the audience started screaming for more. He les back to their homes after the show. At that Aside from the fact that many detest these the Chippendales!” kinds of women-aimed strip shows, it was a Yup, the world-famous male strippers memorable night for those attending. I’m not Chippendales visited Iceland for the first time Rather than describing it as a peep show, it was an the least bit ashamed to admit that I had a last week and performed to a full house at great time and can now understand pretty well Broadway. In the local media the performance entertaining and ludicrous Broadway comedy with awk- the reason for the Chippendales’ longevity. was advertised as being better than sex. Seeing Entertaining millions of women worldwide the “studs” in their flimsy attire was said to ward dancing and terrible music, where sweaty and flex- every year, the show was never boring, even be the girls’ World Cup, an opportunity of though the guys never got naked, and I never a lifetime to see the most perfect men in the ible grown-up guys are the stars. saw a sour face in the crowd. Watching guys world strip down and dance around for your wriggle in their G-strings, socks and shoes is pleasure only. The girls could even take part just indescribable fun, although they will ne- in the dirty fun themselves. turned his naked ass to the crowd, picked up point, the audience went insane and everyone ver be my idea of sexy. Rather than describing Like many young women in Reykjavík, I his clothes and ran off the stage again. was in for it, trying to sound hornier than the it as a peep show, it was an entertaining and decided that this was something I just had to It is hard to pinpoint what act was the next group. I even spotted some women in ludicrous Broadway comedy with awkward see for myself. most hilarious, but when a guy wearing pink their sixties standing on chairs slightly hys- dancing and terrible music, where sweaty and satin pyjamas started simulating a sex act with terical and applauding loudly when the guys flexible grown-up guys are the stars. Nothing ‘Oh man, what did I get myself into?’ was my a bed while his partner was pouring candle walked out into the audience to make better more and nothing less. first thought when I tried to find a good spot wax on his chest I thought I would choke on contact with the ladies, and of course earn After standing on a chair for almost three inside the packed venue where about 1,000 my drink. some tips. hours, I left Broadway when the now extre- women of all ages, who were all amazingly Better yet was when the whole group came As can be expected, the Chippendales’ mely frisky audience got the chance to take well-dressed and gorgeous, had nestled into out wearing white military uniforms singing arrival in Iceland has been the talk of town their picture with the group. Some women their seats, queued by the bar or standing “I can be your hero baby” while walking and not all are satisfied with this kind of couldn’t get enough of their muscular and on chairs to get a better view of the all-male around and throwing their clothes on the amusement. Some find it humiliating, disgus- sweaty bodies at that time (maybe the trips revue just starting. Many had attended for a floor, finishing the act standing in boxers ting and are shocked at girls who want to pay to the bar had something to do with that). friend’s birthday or bachelorette party. With with the American flag. None of them could to see this kind of disastrous entertainment Whether the Chippendales left home alone the exception of a couple of guys in the audi- even keep up the rhythm in the very simple where the male body is merchandised into a that night is hard to say but they undoubtedly ence this was a girls’ night out. choreography, but that made the whole event play toy for women. I’m not going to debate sent a group of horny and tipsy women out Sex wasn’t the first thing that came into even more absurd. It was like witnessing an that issue. The only thing I have to say about into the night. my mind though as the show went on. This ill-rehearsed boy band miming some of the it after seeing the show is that I at least didn’t night was more hilarious than I could ever worst songs ever recorded while stripping find it humiliating for anyone. Women are di- 38 fiction fiction 39
has put in an appearance at the palace now and again. And the boys and their speculation. Soon the news got round, however, that there was no hope of father were involved with that Ritchie a couple of years ago, canning salmon. a baroness in the near future. Baron Bollow was a bachelor, at least for the One Spring near the Close of the Century He was a Scotsman through and through, even though he naturally didn’t go time being, whatever his situation would be in the future. Which made it not about in a skirt, at least not in the wind and rain here. So they should be able at all impossible for one of the country’s daughters to end up in the role of BY ÞÓRARINN ELDJÁRN to recognise him from his accent, the Fjeldsteds should. baroness. Whatever the future held in store in this regard, it was clear that no - Do you mean to say that English is not just English? flighty ninny would fit the bill. The baron was said to be highly respectful and disciplined in his treatment of his hired help. He requested that they doff It was spring when the baron arrived in Iceland. Spring in the air and spring Borgarfjörður, late in May 1898, that this regal nobleman intended to become French, German, Scottish, English ... as if that were not enough, a reputable their caps for him on the farm and treat him with the utmost respect at all on the way for the nation. And we welcomed him. Although we never knew, a farmer in the Icelandic countryside. He had purchased one of the farms in man in Reykjavík was also reported to have said this Baron was an American. times. Although he was neither arrogant nor haughty, his reticence bordered in fact, who he was. Nor do we know even now. One day he was just there, the wide-reaching uplands of the Borgarfjörður region, Hvítárvellir, in the This statement was also brought up for discussion at the Corner, where men on obliviousness. all of a sudden, like the migrating birds. No one expected he would stay any district Andakíll, for a princely sum. It would be the Baron’s seat. In the in- expressed serious doubts. The younger man, his kinsman, appeared to be a different story alto- longer than the birds did, at the most until autumn came. In that respect he land valleys and coastal flats the response was the same: even when the news - An American? An American Baron? A likely story. Out west they did gether. He was cheerful and talkative, always had his eye on the girls and was not so very different from those foreign travellers who made their way to had been repeated more than once, people hardly dared to tell the story to the their best to get rid of all such titles and ranks long ago when they declared enjoyed teasing them, especially if the baron was absent or out of sight. He Iceland ever more frequently. Most of them queer ducks, with unusual avoca- next person they met. their independence from the English. There simply are no barons there, but soon made an effort to get along in Icelandic, asked plenty of questions about tions. Perhaps he was one of those who were apparently tired of always head- The price paid was reportedly no more and no less than thirty-six thou- on the other hand, any man can easily become as wealthy as a baron if he has the language and in a short time could speak passably. The baron could as ing south. But the difference between this fellow and most of the others was sand crowns. It was unheard of, naturally, even allowing for the two other the drive in him to do so. Isn’t that just what the emigration agents are always well, some people claimed, he just did so much less talking and with much obvious in his much more aristocratic and clearly noble bearing, a rare enough farms Heggstaðir and Fossatún, which were included in the price. telling us? fewer people. No, the kinsmen were not much alike. It was not quite clear sight in the colourless local scene. It was evident right from that day in late People simply could not believe the news, although it had long been - Yes, that’s true enough, or at least it’s supposed to be like that in the how they were actually related. The lad, whose name was Richard Lechner, April 1898, when he and his kinsman set out to pick their way gingerly along common knowledge that the owner of the farm Hvítárvellir, Andrés Fjeld- States of America. Do you remember the poem Jón Ólafsson wrote, when he never replied to questions in this regard except to say that they were kin. If the morass of Reykjavík’s streets. The man in fact was scarcely of this world. sted, wanted to sell the property, since it was clear none of his sons wished was agitating for people to desert the country and make the trip westward: he was asked for more details of the family, he did not seem to think it could At least not of the world as manifest at that time in the reality of Reykjavík, to take over the farm. And everyone knew, too, that such a fine piece of land matter. He was generally referred to by the Icelandic name Leiknir, but some capital of Iceland. His kinsman was somehow much closer to what could be would hardly sell for a song. But a good price was one thing and thirty-six Any man who would be wealthy people called him the count, to distinguish him from the baron. called a mortal being. So the otherworldly quality was probably not a family thousand krónur another. It was six times the annual salary of the country’s to America should go, On one occasion that first summer, a few carpenters and farm workers trait. governor or bishop. where his wallet can grow healthy; were joking out in the homefield when one of the farm girls, who made up But who was he and what did he want? There were some people who Fjeldsted must have known how to bargain, to push the price up to those work and God can make it so. for what she lacked in wits by being especially impudent, came by. As was so claimed at first that the man had something to do with the merchant Björn heights? A hard bargainer he’d always been. But no, that had not been the often the case, the baron was the subject of their conversation. At about the Kristjánsson. He had been rowed ashore from the Laura with Björn, in the case at all. Just like the horse dealers, he had mentioned this price sort of as - Strange isn’t it, how few of them who emigrated from Iceland seemed same time, they noticed the baron come out of the house and walk about the merchant’s boat, and landed at the iron jetty down by his store, at the near end a starting point for discussion. Had thought it likely enough that he’d have to have taken advantage of this. Wonder if it was the work or the Lord’s help yard. of the street Vesturgata. But it was apparently only a coincidence that they had to come down a good bit, if he did manage to get a deal at all. It was hard to that was lacking? The lads dared this servant girl, Gunna was her name, to walk up to the travelled aboard the same vessel to Iceland, and made the acquaintance of one know how serious a fellow like this could be. Just have to see whether he shies - Or maybe both. I’ve heard, though, that it’s actually the custom in baron and ask him straight out about his family background. And she took another en route. With the result that Björn helped him out with a few things off or wants to get down to serious business. But the baron had extended his America to call people barons who are wealthy or influential in one way or up the challenge, walked straight over to him. This scared the lads to no end, to start with, and later on as well, in fact. He had not known him previously. pale and refined hand, without hesitating or uttering a word of protest, and another. I’m told they talk of oil barons and beef barons. so they all busied themselves at some task to make it less obvious that they Only three days after they came ashore, for example, Björn advertised sealed the deal. - Well, he’ll at least have enough pasture for his horses up there at were the ones to send her on this errand and were waiting expectantly for the in the weekly Þjóðólfur for two good riding horses, available for purchase “at Those present were taken aback by it, and began exchanging glances Hvítárvellir. He’s maybe a horse baron? result. a fair price”. When horse-owners began to put in an appearance, eager to sell with one another, but the baron appeared not to notice. Neither did he show Once Gunna reached the baron, she wasted no time in asking him their mounts, word soon got around that they were intended for this fellow. any emotion when he spoke up to say that he was accustomed to letting a And what did he want with a baron’s estate in Iceland? How in the world did straight to his face: This increased the supply even more. It seemed clear to everyone that the handshake suffice where gentlemen of honour were involved. They would the man think he could be a baron, far north of all civilisation where no one - Who are you anyway, and why did you come here? foreigner intended to stay longer than just a month, since he was not satisfied naturally complete the necessary formalities and make a note of the conditions knows the front of a noblemen from the back, or could tell who ranked higher He gazed at her for some time with a stern look, then replied in perfectly cor- with merely renting the horses. They found it rather unusual that he should on paper, just like any other memorandum, but to his mind that made little than who? rect Icelandic: inspect the horses and try them out himself. With Björn’s assistance as inter- difference to their real agreement which was naturally the oral one. - To start up like that here, as if being a baron is a job like any other? - Don’t you know that it’s rude to ask questions? preter, he asked about the animals’ flaws and good points, apparently with a The next news of him came not quite a week later, on May 27, in the What do barons do, anyway? He then went back into the house, and that was the end of it, there were no fair degree of knowledge, although some of the questions referred to things newly built Craftsmen’s Hall by the lake in Reykjavík. Here this high-ranking But even those who were the most vocal in expressing their doubts repercussions or anything. people had never heard mentioned before where horses were concerned. He man of wealth and business, soon to be master of his estate in Borgarfjörður had to admit that if anywhere in Iceland there was a prime spot for a baron’s spoke German to Björn. The foreigner also knew how to ride, and had soon and the most influential man of his district, turned out to be a musician, who estate, it was at Hvítárvellir, a fine farm with expansive, flat hayfields and Old Ingimundur of the farm Fossatún was the baron’s tenant and pleased as chosen the two best horses, a white and a light dun. He paid for both mounts held a concert. He had taken his seat on stage with a gigantic violin between meadows, rights to coastline resources and salmon fishing. punch with his new landlord. People would tease him about whether he did in cash, without dickering over the price asked, and the horse mongers sorely his legs, playing away on this fantastic instrument with such skill that people, It might sound like a fairy tale but they had no choice but to accept it. not resent being sold off all of a sudden, like any other part of the farm. To regretted afterwards that they had not ventured even higher. They said they whether they had seen a thing or two or not, declared they had never heard Nor did the visitor let it suffice to purchase the farm itself. He took possession be practically a serf in bondage to some nobleman. How much had Fjeldsted were certain that the man would have agreed to whatever sum was asked. the like of it. The story went that when the baron began playing, Steini the of it immediately, along with all the livestock. Big plans were said to be in the been paid for him? -And where is he going to find pasture for them? He hasn’t given a ironworker had put down his homemade fiddle and had to grip the edge of offing. The hayfields were to be levelled and the usable land increased. All But Ingimundur did not let their taunts irk him this time any more than thought to that, of course. Does he think maybe that horses can live on air, or the stage to keep from fainting. sorts of innovations were planned. There was talk of mechanical mowers and usual. He answered that there was noble and there was ignoble and in his can go snatching a few bites here and there around town? rakes and no end of other modern inventions. Whoever he was and wherever case, he felt honoured by the nobility. Instead of regarding himself as having Nobody could answer this and it gave rise to long discussions. Who was he, actually, this baron? Where did he come from, and what was his he came from, this baron, he was at least a progressive thinker. been made a serf, he maintained that as things now stood, he was just like - Who does this man think he is, anyway? family background? More and more versions of the story began circulating, It was Flitting Days in the country, the time of year when people could any other landholder who held a fief from an earl or monarch. The baron - Well, it seems he’s no more or less than a baron. as is usually the case when no one knows anything. At the Gossip Corner on change their residence, and everything was a bustle of disorganisation. Andrés was a new settler of a family just as noble as Iceland’s original settlers, heroes Skólavörðustígur, a veritable seminar was held on the subject. Each morning Fjeldsted and his household moved across the river to the farm Ferjukot, descended from kings and princes. It was high time that leaders worthy of the The word spread at astonishing speed and caused no small stir, although it the situation was assessed, and in the afternoon an attempt made to fill in the with the exception of his son Sigurður, who had been engaged as the baron’s name took over the reins in the region. They had hardly seen the likes of him naturally did not settle the question of pasture. He had apparently signed missing details. As it turned out, the outlines grew ever hazier, instead of the overseer. In addition, an agricultural college graduate from Reykjavík, Gísli since the days of Snorri Sturluson. under this title in Hotel Reykjavík’s guest book. No one saw any reason to details gradually being filled in and the picture becoming clearer. Þorbjarnarson, known as Gísli agri, was expected to direct operations that He himself wanted to honour the baron with a poem: challenge this, as the man himself bore all the signs of being some sort of Some people called him Baron Bollow, others Baron Bojlo. A drunken summer. He placed an announcement in Þjóðólfur early in July, informing nobleman. And it was also written on his steamer trunks, said those who Danish mason declared he was named Baron Bullion, and the locals in Bor- anyone who needed to write to him that he would be spending the next three Hail to you, Baron of Borgarfjörd had seen it. No one denied that. If anything, there was suspicion that he was garfjörður soon adapted this to Bull John. Some claimed he was a Frenchman, months at Hvítárvellir. who settles here to reign as lord. of even higher rank; on the trunks there was actually a coat of arms with a judging from his name and appearance, while others were convinced that he The locals in Borgarfjörður watched all the goings on with astonish- We welcome you from worlds scarce known crown. must be German, as until recently he had lived in Munich in Bavaria. This ment. At Hvítárvellir there was action everywhere. The baron immediately to wake our folk so long alone, This only created even more astonishment when it became common had been printed in Ísafold, when the concert was advertised and there were had the construction of a new building begun, to house all his newly hired to challenge the North with hero’s heart knowledge in Reykjavík that he claimed he was determined to settle here. plenty of witnesses who could confirm that he spoke German fluently. But it employees. It was an impressive wooden structure. He also had the existing inspiring friends to make a start And when people also learned, not least as a result of his horse dealings, that didn’t stop there. Still others maintained that there was no doubt that the man farm house extensively renovated. It had been built some time ago, of stone, and settle the shores of Arctic seas he was someone used to an expensive lifestyle and clearly very wealthy, their must be English. with a later wood frame addition, by the former Andrés Fjeldsted. There the with friendship and faith the land to free. interest was stirred even more. What could there be in Iceland that had caught - He arrived here aboard the Laura last month, and I’m told he boarded baron himself intended to reside with his kinsman. The old turf farmhouse Thus Frank and Viking, hand in hand, his attention? Had the time actually come for the country’s luck to turn, and in Scotland, in other words he didn’t come all the way from the continent. was also touched up. It was to house the domestic servants and farm workers shall drive the Danish from our land. for something to happen? Well-off citizens and aspiring businessmen were - Well, if that’s the case, then isn’t he a Scotsman? Maybe goes around in of long standing. May we long enjoy your kin quick to show an interest, and seek to get to know him better, but this was no a skirt? A fresh new breeze seemed to be sweeping through the rural districts and shape our future from within easy task. He did not reply to greetings made in passing and when addressed, - No, according to the father and sons at Hvítárvellir he speaks perfect of Borgarfjörður. Some people even said that these were the first signs of as dawns a brighter day this morn he acted as if he could not understand a word of whatever language they at- English. And with an accent like a real nobleman, they say, just like the queen a new age dawning. More than one person found a pretext to pay a visit to for Iceland’s sons, so used to scorn. tempted to use. herself and royalty. They say the Scots speak completely differently, more like Hvítárvellir, to see the splendours with their own eyes and place a finger on We ask you, then, to lend a hand, What drove a man like this up here, with his pockets full of money? Icelanders. the pulse of progress. Reports spread quickly all over the region, which could against the foe to take a stand Couldn’t he just as easily be a hardened criminal? Why didn’t he say a word to - Hardly have the Hvítárvellir farmer and his sons had much to do with almost be said to have become one great Gossip Corner. and wrestle with our common fate, anyone? Wasn’t that a sure sign that he had something to hide? the queen or any other royalty for that matter? Many a young maiden’s heart beat quicker at the sight of the two kins- united strength can make us great. But if this caused tongues to wag and became the subject of specula- - Well, no, maybe not. But they do often have English lords come to go men, on their estate or at public gatherings. The baron, however, appeared to tion, it was nothing compared to the astonishment which gripped the town salmon fishing up there in the summer and they can chat like natives. Strange take scant notice of them. Could they perhaps expect the arrival of a baroness The preceding is an excerpt from the novel The Baron. Translated by Keneva Kunz. only a short while later. Most people could not believe their ears when news fellows they are, who would rather hook a fish or two with a rod and reel than from abroad one day, when the farm and facilities had become more fitting? spread like wildfire about the capital, and all of the western districts around do the sensible thing and lay nets for them. More than one man among them On this and so many other questions there was no end of discussion and 40 review
Hornafjörður is a thriving community in the realm of Vatnajökull. Besides the spectacular nature and a view beyond compare, the traveller will fi nd various services and recreation such as hotels, restaurants, camping, shopping, swimming, glacier tours, a golf course, museums and exhibitions, etc. Hornafjörður is a paradise for the hiker, and the locals are proud of their wide choice of walking trails.
The Glacier Exhibition in Höfn was reopened The Night Horny Electronica Lost triumphant return, of Trabant. they realised just what level of seriousness the show whO “Welcome all you horse people,” singer Ragnar best deserved, the audience, and, as it seemed, the after signifi cant renovations in June 2005. to the Horny Countryside began onstage, drawing confusedly enthused cheers band members themselves, started to remember just The aim of the Exhibition is to communicate Trabant and from a few in the crowd. He exuded an irresistibly how alive a live show could be. knowledge in various ways about the country’s nature as well as offering tourists interesting Stuðmenn By Valgerður Þóroddsdóttir Photo Skari amusing confidence, swaying slightly before the The rest of the population of the barn was far recreation all year around. The Exhibition microphone with a bewildered smile on his face. The away, about ten metres in fact, from that realisation. is open on weekdays from October to April. “You know you’re at a Sveitaball when someone is crowd was spread thinly over the large floor, keeping In the sitting area, most had much preferred socialis- From the beginning of May until the end of vomiting outside and the show hasn’t even started a safe distance from the stage. “Yes...” he laughed and ing to taking part in the concert, and a few, I found, September it’s open every day. Apart from where yet,” a friend and veteran country boy informed me looked around him at his bandmates with a mischie- had instead taken to writing in my notebook. Among regular opening hours the Exhibition can be Ölfushöll around 11:30 p.m., 30 minutes after Trabant were vous smile, “Welcome horse enthusiasts and, well, other things, including a short poem about a bunny opened on request. supposed to take the stage. Jesus, this is just like a David Lynch film.” rabbit, I found the following note scribbled in sloppy Glacier Exhibition Surprisingly enough, though, nothing was hap- He chuckled. The audience muttered. Ragnar handwriting with my blue pen: “Mummi Þjöl (a in Höfn pening. The concert space, a massive “riding palace” fell to the floor of the stage in an exaggerated fit of bouncy country-dance-type song about a man who www.joklasyning.is whEN for horse competitions, was empty and freezing cold. laughter, as his bandmates grinned behind him. Half- owns a mandolin and becomes a fisherman) is the August 12th We sat in brown leather chairs at one of the 20 long apathetic, half-confused, the 30 audience members in most genius creation known to man. Take a record 2006 wooden tables set up beside the stage where small the front stared at him blankly. with Hemma Gunn with you when you go home, Christmas candles, along with the stage and the bar’s Close by, huddled around the tables, a hundred wherever that is in the world.” Þingvellir refrigerators, provided the only light in the dusty kids were eagerly and inebriatedly engrossed in each When Stuðmenn took the stage, the crowd react- grey air. So far, I had counted more bouncers than other. In the lobby, a slightly smaller chorus of men ed immediately. “Welcome lesbians, welcome gays,” people, all dressed in black t-shirts of varying degrees held the attention of dozens more kids as they sobbed lead singer Egill Ólafsson began, making obscure of tightness, stationed at every door and corner of the their way through a series of Raggi Bjarna songs a reference to the fact that today was the beginning of TAKE THE WARMTH WITH YOU! building, including a nook at the far end of the barn capella. About five metres from the stage a pair of Different Days (or Gay Pride) in Reykjavík. He then Wool & Souvenirs Shop in a Country Village near the city where the stage lights couldn’t reach. women in their 40s quit talking to each other and mumbled something about how this was a remarkable The Selfoss locals slowly spilled in, and a few looked up at the man dressed in white from head to day, and how much Iceland is improving itself, “Now stragglers wandering in alone headed straight for toe. Halldór (Ásgrímsson, former Prime Minister and Open: the topmost rows of the benches standing ten metres The smile had not left Ragnar’s face. Not half Progressive Party member) has quit, and soon Guðni Monday - Friday: as confused as he was entertained, he continued, (Ágústsson, Minister of Agriculture and Progressive above the ground along the wall opposite the stage. Mosfellsbær 9:00 - 18:00 There, they sombrely surveyed the room until a famil- “Indeed, thank you all for being a part of this David Party member) will be gone and things will get even iar face, or group of faces, loudly arrived. Hovering Lynch film. Now we’re going to play a song about better!” Saturdays: around the tables in tipsy excitement, these familiar love.” But people weren’t listening. In drunken bliss they faces collected people from all directions like magnets And so Trabant launched unabashedly into their scrambled towards the stage, falling over themselves 9:00 - 16:00 until the 50 or so kids in attendance had been consoli- electronic hurricane of a set. Instantly juiced up by and each other at every opportunity. Egill continued dated into four or five groups. It felt just like a school their music, everything about their presence onstage rambling, every once in a while stumbling into com- dance. was heightened, every move dramatised, every glance prehensible territory with interjections like, “It’s best As the bouncers dutifully reminded us at every eroticised. Through their exaggerated heartthrob to be hot and sweaty!”, spoken with a poetry-slam- turn, exiting the building was highly frowned upon, pouts, the five of them practically glowed with bliss. type dramatic pause between every word. Meanwhile, since re-entry would not be granted once you had Trabant’s delivery is so self-indulgent and the crowd had formed a giant pit. And somehow, in come in contact with fresh air. Yet between trips to drenched in enthusiasm that, even as their stage antics the midst of this excitement and burst of poetic and the bar, the bathroom and the aforementioned dark border on embarrassing and downright pervy, every political creativity, Stuðmenn began their set. abyss past the stage, people kept busy. They sat, minute of it is enthralling. Half-naked and soaked in It seemed almost embarrassing that what Trabant sang songs, enjoyed being drunk. In the background glitter and confidence, the five members of Trabant had half-mocked, Stuðmenn embraced wholeheart- catchy eighties dance hits shuffled on a short repeat- have found their element onstage where, performing edly. Looking at them, I had no doubt in my mind ing list. An older couple, in their 30s, got up to do as if their every note had been hand-picked from the that they thought they were gods, but somehow, when an awkward back-and-forth shuffle as the last notes mouth of God, they effectively exploit the importance Trabant had acted that way, it had been enjoyable. of the climactic “Morning Train” by Sheena Easton of a passionate stage performance, amazingly enough, “I feel like suicide,” my friend from Reykjavík banged through the speakers. After the song ended, without looking or sounding cheesy. said as he stared in horror at the scene unfolding. I they continued on blissfully in the silence as the playl- Ragnar steadily lost articles of clothing, cham- looked at Birgitta Haukdal onstage with a permanent
ist hesitated, searching for its next one-hit wonder, pagne was sprayed and spit, tubes filled with confetti look of delighted surprise on her face as she clapped Grafarvogur - Bridge - ReykjavíkGrafarholt then deciding suddenly to abandon its eighties theme exploded, lewd gestures were made, and for the her hands and shook her shiny maracas at random and burst out with Silvía Night’s “Congratulations most part, the small crowd was loving it. When it intervals, smiling so wide I could count all her molars. HYDROGEN Iceland” before beginning the list over again. came time for Ragnar, by now wearing nothing but a Something was wrong here. It was as my two Reykjavík-local friends, return- gold-sequined Speedo and white tube socks, to mimic Noticing my distress, my country boy informant ing from the crowd now accumulating in the lobby, oral intercourse on band member Gísli Galdur, the jumped in, “You have to realise that this is a meat enthusiastically reported to me that they had just ridiculousness was almost too much for them to han- market, everyone in here is just looking to meet some- met the coolest local guys, “They knew every Raggi dle, and, for a moment, both they and the audience one, the rest is just, whatever.” Bjarna (eternally youthful 70-year-old ‘country’ enter- hesitated. As Ragnar, now on his knees, drew closer Apart from the four of us, not a single person was tainer) hit ever made!”, that the show began. to Gísli, the two performers couldn’t help but laugh. sitting at the tables. Right in front of us, not able to Sprinklings of electronic synths began floating The audience opened up their eyes wide. make their way into the mob of people in front of the from the stage, singing out like trumpets announc- If David Lynch had been there, I think he might stage, a few older women were dancing, moving their ing the band’s imminent arrival. About three people have stifled a tear. hips quickly from side to side while mouthing all the Since 1896 recognised the overture for what it was and stumbled After managing to translate the silky radiance words with a look of serious concentration. Maybe the towards the stage just as the five members of the band of their catchy electropop into an equally radiant point was that everyone knew the words. Maybe they performance, the band spit out their last glittery note. couldn’t help it. strutted into the barn each waving sparkling firework Álafossvegur 23 - Mosfellsbær Design: Sjáaldur auga míns 2006 / Photo: Jón Baldvin Halldórsson fuses in the air with one hand, looking up at the The dance had nearly tripled in attendance since the “For those of you tonight, out there looking,” golden lines they painted in the dark, seemingly in beginning of their set, but the audience on the actual Egill shouted into the microphone, “aren’t things Tel. 566 6303 - www.alafoss.is tune to the synthetic waves raining down all around dance floor had remained humbly fewer than 40 coming along?” And the crowd cheered. them. It was the majestic entrance, and even more people. Still, the set was, quite literally, golden. Once 42 travel travel 43
and thong underwear who have spent the Music Museum was fascinating—for someone ion, who grew up without trees, but not so passed away? That was inconceivable. For night partying with the local poet. less connected to the language and who didn’t fascinating, somehow, to Wisconsin-raised even though sheep are but sheep, they are still The rest of the games, which lasted grow up with Icelandic folk songs being sung me. creatures of flesh and blood - flesh, blood and Outside Reykjavík another eight hours, passed in a pleasant blur to me, it was not quite as impressive. A short drive from Hallormsstaðaskógur soul. Or was Eitil perhaps a soulless being? for most of us. Unfortunately, our captain, Even had the Herring Museum not is Skriðuklaustur, the arts centre created from - Or Leo? - Or Faxe? Was their innocence Valdi, had tempted fate by bragging about proved so compelling, (I still have the video the one-time home of celebrated Icelandic and trust of lesser value than the fickle faith how safe Mýrarbolti was, and he broke his they showed on the Iceland presentation at novelist Gunnar Gunnarsson. It is hard to of human beings? Benedikt shook his head. Hringvegurinn leg in an early game. Disturbing as the injury the 1939 World’s Fair in New York, in which discuss the Gunnar Gunnarsson Institute, Whomever might take his place, he could not sounds, it seemed fine to those of us who Siglufjörður and its gorgeous herring girls housed in Skriðklaustur, without blushing. wish any better companions. Whoever has weren’t injured. At day’s end, the visitors from were featured prominently, in my head), the The home was designed by celebrated Ger- such friends is not alone in this world.” Reykjavík had sworn to return and avenge our brief journey off the Ring Road offered respite man architect Johann Höger, in 1939. And many defeats. from tourists and travellers. For every kilome- it looks… well, it looks like Hitler’s dream Depressed over Gunnarsson’s bad writing and tre you go from the main road, you seem to bungalow. his likely confused good intentions, I decided There are likely better ways to describe reduce traffic by 10%. If you aren’t wincing yet, then you would to finish up my drive around the Ring Road Ísafjörður. I discussed them with Eirikur if you toured the Gunnar Gunnarsson Valdi-style. We made only two more major Norðdahl when he showed up at the com- When we got back on the Ring Road, life was Institute and saw the praise for the writers stops. First, we went to the always shockingly petition, and when the evening came, and fine enough. We set out for Mývatn, where we celebrity in the Nordic countries and espe- beautiful Jökulsárlón, the glacial lagoon. I somehow Norðdahl was going to host another hoped to hit up a pizza stand we used to like, cially Germany in the 1930s, “the best-selling found the chunks of ice calming, the seals party, and we talked about the lack of pre- only to find that Mývatn had modernised a author behind Goethe” one sign told guests. playing in the sun picturesque, and the tour- tension, of how overall good humour made little: the pizza stand now holds an enormous, Our tour guide, a robust blonde, was ists to be a pretty decent bunch. My compan- Ísafjörður the kind of place to live where you and busy, tourist information centre. Instead, ecstatic about Gunnarsson’s popularity, even ion saw only the Arctic Terns, bitter about could be proud of your town, and not in the I chewed the world’s worst hot dog, and we today, with German tourists. And she repeat- childhood encounters with the territorial postmodern sense. He also pointed out that made our way off the Ring Road to Dettifoss. edly offered to give us more information birds. Ísafjörður acted a bit like an opiate on people Dettifoss is the most powerful waterfall in about the writer. The drive across Suðurland, a route we who had spent too much time in the city. Europe. Located an uncomfortable 90-minute Eventually, it is quite likely that an ur- at the Grapevine take monthly, yielded a few His favourite example was a recent visit drive from Mývatn, but it can be done in bane magazine will stop at this museum and surprises. Instead of seeing dozens of Toyota from former prime minister, Halldór Ás- any vehicle for a few months in the summer. mock it for ignoring history the way it does, Yaris rental cars, we saw dozens of bicyclists, grímsson. The conservative politician had We drove it in bad weather, in a sedan, and and that will be a sad moment. Gunnars- tents and packs carried in saddle bags or bike taken in too much Ísafjörður air, accosted spent two happy hours dazed by the waterfall son seems to have been well-intentioned, he trailers. In addition to these new tourists who Things You Should Do in Iceland Before You Die... or Turn 31 Norðdahl, told him “You are my children. You – much as I’ve written about natural wonders, left his home to Iceland for use as a hospital, likely connect with Iceland better than the are the future of this country,” and then gave for something like Dettifoss, description isn’t if need be, for example. But it is hard to rest, we saw a new group of tourists who take One last trip around the Ring Road him his personal cell phone number, in case oblivion to a new level. At Skaftafell National anything should come up. Park, the largest park in Europe, we found a “I have never seen such a collection of oddballs, women hiking with her attention devoted not Joining the Masses to Vatnajokull glacier, but to her glacial white We left Ísafjörður on a quiet Sunday morn- all local products, in my life. This is a town where iPod. She was power-walking. A few kilome- by bart cameron photo by skari ing and set off for the Ring Road for one last tres later, we saw a similar tourist doing Yoga trip around Iceland. The bad weather we had two 19-year-olds were elected to city council after with a CD player. I’ve been in Iceland three years, and have pub- Valdi taking over the wheel in frustration after to play some songs on the makeshift stage the President of Iceland, (not the band, but feared encountering on Highway 61 greeted lished about 250,000 words on the culture and I had driven the speed limit for the first few at Tjöruhúsið, the club filled with assorted the guy, Ólafur Ragnar Grímsson). The City us, but driving at the posted speed limit was promising to import moose to the area. This is a town We stayed our last night in Kirkjubæjark- tourism industry here. You name a personal- hours. 20-somethings from around Iceland who had of Reykjavík markets itself as “Pure Energy”. comfortable enough. In four hours, we were laustur, the active small town that produced ity, politician, fjord or puffin, and I figured Highway 61, which takes you through the come out to the country to enjoy summer the Ísafjörður outdoes Reykjavík not only in on the road to Akureyri, with bumper to where the mayor is highly regarded for his excellent Iceland’s most famous living artist, Erró, I’d covered it. As I got ready to leave, though, West Fjords is an attraction in and of itself. way it should be. As we went to bed, we were the energy department, but also in the more bumper SUV traffic. and that looks, with its rolling hills and I looked through my notes and found a few Somehow always balanced on a mountain’s told that the poet Eirikur Norðdahl was host- important department of CHANNELING it. For all the travelling done for the Grape- whale jerky...” Technicolor green moss, much like the Shire. places that I’d never gotten out to. These last edge, it lends gorgeous views of a more ing an enormous party, and the whole town’s Thus we watched 12 young men dressed vine, I had never set out on a traditional trav- Kirkjubæjarklaustur is an attraction mainly few destinations that I’d missed reminded me ancient-looking landscape than you can see in elite would be there. This, it would turn out, in shorts that barely concealed their darkest elling weekend. At such a time, the uniformly because of its view of Vatnajökull and Mýrd- of everything I love about this island. In fact, I the rest of Iceland. is a nightly thing in town. Yes, there is a town secrets, screaming “Team Hot Pants” and run- single-lane highway slows, as campers, trail- that necessary. Watching a 100 metre wide celebrate an author who made his fortune alsjökull glaciers, but for me, as a traveller, I came to the sad realisation that, after 250,000 Driving along at unsuitable speeds, I in the world where poets are rock stars. ning into the mud to do battle against more ers, and enormous tires aren’t great for speed. waterfall discharge of glacial material at 500 and reputation telling Germans and Danes to have always been impressed, most of all, with words, I hadn’t covered that much, and after couldn’t help but point out that this would not athletic types. We saw various takes on the We lasted just under an hour on the Ring cubic metres a second… it’s like watching get back to the country and rustic lifestyle in the accommodations in the area – this is eas- three years, I was only just catching on to the be a good road to drive in the dark. Or in rain. We were in Ísafjörður to compete, though, superhero wardrobe by teams of bold, often Road, before pulling off and changing our God’s truck stop toilet flush. the 1920s and 30s, when we know what that ily the least expensive, and most professional charm of Iceland. Or even cloudy weather. My companions, not to hold conversations with the intelligent- straight-faced women. We saw 200 competi- destination from Mývatn to Siglufjörður. movement was associated with. It is also very place to sleep in Southern Iceland. all native to Reykjavík except Valdi, agreed sia. For this reason, we passed out just after tors, all one step more absurd than the next, in Popular in the 30s… in Germany difficult to tolerate a museum that ignores It all starts in a Toyota Camry, the back seat quickly. midnight, woke up early, and set out trying a town of 5,000. You won’t likely believe this, but Siglufjörður We returned to the Ring Road, through the a little section in history called the Second Then the trip was over. The drive from full of large, menacing Icelanders, and Valdi, to find liquor, our team’s captain, Valdi, and I should move on to discuss the game boasts the best museum in Iceland, and it’s de- desert of the Northeast, where, for my first World War, all while celebrating the life of a Kirkjubæjarklaustur to Reykjavík is gentle lead singer of the Nine Elevens, driving 130 As it happened, we made it to Ísafjörður in a shoes—yes, we’d forgotten shoes. itself. Mýrarbolti is soccer, played in mud, voted to Iceland’s herring boom. I had heard time as a driver, I saw no reindeer. From writer who benefited from the attitudes that and unimposing. My last seven hours in the km an hour down a dirt road in the West little over five hours, our stomachs wrecked Mercifully, it took us longer than expected sometimes mud of up to two feet thickness. about the Herring Museum, which is spread the desert, we came upon Egilsstaðir, which caused it. Icelandic countryside were peaceful. I was Fjords towards his home, Ísafjörður. Through from nerves. Valdi did the only conscien- to round up these items, and we arrived just The mud makes players look silly, even the out over three buildings and covers everything seems to have doubled in only 12 months, due When you add to the museum experience lucky enough to get sun and warmth when miraculous gift of gab, Valdi had recruited tious thing a native of Ísafjörður can do. after the 10 am start time for Mýrarbolti. This most skilled athlete looks drunk on the field. from boat culture to the industrialisation of to the huge amount of money passing through the knowledge that recently, inside Iceland, driving past Hveragerði, a favourite local us to drive him home and join his Mýrarbolti He brought us straight to the most homey, meant that our “team” didn’t get to the first As for drunks, they too look silly. Iceland, but to see it was to see a new art form. the area for the forthcoming aluminium there has been a right-wing drive to claim jaunt. And then we were done. My three – or Mud Ball –team for the annual competi- relaxed, and wholesome fish restaurant in the match, and substitutes filled in for us. Good So our team prepared for our second game The flights of fancy in creating this over-the- smelter. Gunnarsson was betrayed and denied a Nobel years, all used up. My girlfriend’s 27 years tion in the most remote large town in Iceland. world, Tjöruhúsið. You can read more about it substitutes. Who won. It would be our only by sipping liquor and enjoying the view on a top museum are jaw-dropping. Were every- Considering the town was currently Prize based on his Nazi sympathies, and here, done. It was the worst way to say good- He insisted that Ísafjörður was only five hours elsewhere in this issue, but I can only say that, victory. crisp summer morning. During our first real thing not so authentic and respectful to actual hosting protestors from throughout Europe, not the dated-even-at-its-time quality of his bye to Iceland. Tired, happy, and staring out away, and that Mýrarbolti was the safest sport from the moment we walked in and saw the Mýrarbolti (a direct translation is swamp game, I discovered the reason nobody ever history, it would call to mind the grandeur of everybody in the area seemed at ease. When I Romantic prose, you may understand why I at the most peaceful landscape in the world. in the history of man. So somehow, despite band Lack of Talent hanging from the rafters, ball) is the brain child of some fun-lov- tried to market an alcoholic version of Gato- a Disney exhibit. bought gas, I was briefly confused for some- wouldn’t recommend the Gunnar Gunnars- Mercifully, we hit rain just outside Rey- the fact that only minutes before he invited us, while the restaurant owners cleared a spot ing Finns, but it has truly found a home in raid. Running in the mud proved difficult. A day at the Herring Museum felt like one who was heading to Kárhanjúkar. The son Institute for those not blessed with a very kjavík, and we got stuck in a massive traffic he had explained his prodigious achievements and served up heaping bowls of plokkfiskur, Ísafjörður. I have never seen such a collec- Running in the mud with stomach turning, a day engaged in the best kind of novel, in question from the brooding local: “Are there relaxed temper. You are touring a museum jam that reminded us that life in Iceland isn’t in fighting hygiene, among them touring for we knew we’d found happiness. Or four of us tion of oddballs, all local products, in my and head spinning, proved embarrassing. which you learn, live someone else’s life, and going to be any more concerts up there?” built on lines like the following, from his always as it is during the holidays. three weeks wearing the same pair of boots had. The heartiest of us, a man who worked life. This is a town where two 19-year-olds I know we lost. I don’t know by how eventually step out dazed but more attuned At another brooding local’s suggestion, popular-in-Nazi-Germany book The Good and never taking them off, we had agreed to fishing boats regularly, was forced to call it an were elected to city council after promising much. than you were before. Grapevine co-editor Sveinn Birkir Björns- Shepherd: “For it could hardly be the inten- – Car provided by Hertz Car Rental, Flugval- come along. evening, still suffering from motion sickness to import moose to the area. This is a town When we finished, a few of us switched Beyond the Herring Museum, the town son, we chose not to spend the night in tion of the Creator that the poor beasts which larvegi, 101 Reykjavík, Tel.: 505-0600, www. Ísafjörður is not five hours from Rey- after Valdi’s driving. where the mayor is highly regarded for his to water, and the experience got much more offers a Museum of Icelandic Folk Music, Egilsstaðir, but in the nearby forest, Hal- stray into this wilderness and are overlooked hertz.is kjavík. For a normal driver, in ideal condi- On that first night, Ísafjörður felt like excellent whale jerky, the home not just to pleasant. Social lubricant isn’t necessity when which is a more standard, tasteful museum. lormsstaðaskógur. There we found trees. at the autumn sheep gathering should be left – Accommodations provided by Hótel Edda, Tel.: tions, you’re talking about seven hours. Hence a hippie commune. As a few of us got up Mugison, but to Reykjavík! the Nine Elevens, you’re talking to 12 men in ventilation suits For my Icelandic travel partner, the Folk Again, fascinating to my Icelandic compan- to their own devices, when he, Benedikt, had 444-4000, www.hoteledda.is
Energy for life through forces of nature
www.bluelagoon.com 44 review review 45
KK walked onstage, played a beautiful song and and it was clear he was a performer. He knew just Are You Ready to Eat Fiber!!! then a crowd favourite. Then he enlightened us about what to say and when to say it. He told us that our whO whO the origins of blues. He told us Icelandic folk musi- only job as a crowd was to enjoy ourselves, which was Morrissey Roger Hodgson By Helgi Valur Photo by Skari cians had travelled and taught black men the blues. easy. The Grapevine’s cameraman was taking a lot of and KK We Icelanders may have the most blues per capita, but pictures, as were the other locals, so Hodgson decided The suburb of Grafarvogur was quiet the night I doubt we invented it. I hoped he would talk more just to walk offstage and pose. Then I guess he told where Roger Hodgson, former leading man of Supertramp, about what Icelanders gave black people because then them all to sod off because after that they left. performed at Broadway in Reykjavík. All the mid- I could call him KKK. KK started to sing a cappella There was never a dull moment. Every song he Laugardalshöll where dle-aged men and women in southern Iceland had without a mic the way we did it back in the day. Com- played took you on a journey through his most inti- Broadway gathered, after all, to listen to the corniest singer of pliments to him on a brilliant performance. mate emotional life, but it remained entertaining. He all time – I was genuinely surprised my mother wasn’t I was getting quite annoyed by the giggling of then started with his new material, an expected low whEN there. middle-aged men when Hodgson walked onstage. point. But there was to be no low point, only highs. Roger Hodgson, the man who penned Breakfast He started to play his little piano and I just thought He who says “what comes up must come down” has August 12th whEN in America and Logical Song, is the guy who made this could get so lame. But his first song was Take the never gone to a Rodger Hodgson concert. 2006 August 11th corny cool. Before this tour, though, Hodgson hadn’t Long Way Home and I started smiling and couldn’t Strike that. There was the crowd. performed in 20 years, since he quit Supertramp to help but sing along. You’d think that 20 years of aging Why do drunken middle-aged men and women 2006 raise a family (which is very corny). In addition to 20 would have deepened Hodgson’s rather high-pitched have the power to make you want to drink detergent years’ downtime, Hodgson had the added obstacle tone a little; it hadn’t. His voice was beautiful as ever. while hanging in a noose while slitting your wrists that he was presenting his music solo, with just a I got chills and happiness was just flying all around with a razor? People kept yelling requests and even "OOB-ÓOEBM piano. For those of you who don’t know Supertramp, like a bumblebee sucking up honey from all the flow- asking for songs he didn’t even write. You wouldn’t #KBSOJ4JHVSCKÚSOTTPO it is an overproduced pop band with a unique, cheesy ers. Oh how sweet it was sitting there just listening to go to a Pearl Jam concert and ask for a Creed song. vͳF (V§SÞO,SJTUKÈOTEØUUJS yet wonderfully happy sound. So take that sound away a terrific songwriter who could sing like a fat lady on Would you? But even this wasn’t enough to rattle me. &SMJOH57,MJOHFOCFSH and what is left? I was about to find out. fire. Roger Hodgson, who many people thought was a )BMMEØS«THFJSTTPO First, though, I would watch KK. Every time Hodgson wasn’t solo. His partner in crime was has-been, (or, as was often the case that night, a dif- )BSBMEVS,BSMTTPO middle-aged people get together to listen to music in called Aaron. He played the clarinet and saxophone ferent person entirely), was performing like a genius (FOUMF ,SJTUCFSHVS1ÏUVSTTPO Iceland, concert promoters call KK and check if he’s beautifully and harmonised well whenever backing or savant if you will. After the show he got a standing 1BUSJDL)VTF available. vocals were needed. Hodgson addressed the crowd ovation and did three encores. 3BHOB3ØCFSUTEØUUJS -BWBi 4JSSB4JHSÞO4JHVS§BSEØUUJS 4QFTTJ his mic cord around like a lion tamer, his 4UFJOVOO7BTVMLB The Ringleader Refuses to Fail yellow shirt tied at the bottom so that we Welcome to Iceland – Welcome to SPA City Reykjavík $POUFNQPSBSZ could see his stomach. )"'/"3#03( By Helgi Valur Photo by Ingó He announced that he was going to BSUJTUTUBLFPO play a few of his new songs. Now I became )BGOBSCPSHJTUIFBSUNVTFVNPG)BGOBSͯÚS§VS UIFMBWBmFMET BOPMEUPXOJOUIFMBWBKVTUTPVUIPG3FZLKBWÓLͳF For me, You Are the Quarry, by Morrissey, worried. After a bright day, there’s always JOBTUVOOJOH FYIJCJUJPOJTPQFOGSPNUPFWFSZEBZFYDFQU is one of the best comeback albums ever. a dark night. So, after genius like You Are 5VFTEBZBOEUPͳVSTEBZT5PHFUUIFSFGSPN Up there with Bob Dylan’s Blood on the the Quarry there must follow some medio- 3FZLKBWÓL UBLFCVT4XIJDITUPQTKVTUBGFXNFUSFT OFXFYIJCJUJPO GSPNPVSEPPS Tracks. The chance to see him after the cre crap. But his new songs were as good as comeback was a dream, though I was nerv- his previous albums and even the Smiths ous: I’d not yet heard Ringleader of the songs. My favourite song that night was Tormentors, his newest release, and I was a Life is a Pigsty, maybe because the lyrics little worried that I might be in store for a rang so true. night of something as bad as Dylan’s failed Morrissey played four Smiths songs, comeback Street Legal. Truthfully, for which is more than his usual. Still, some Eleven Reasons to Visit Reykjavík’s many in attendance, the hope was to see a of the old Smiths fans were unhappy. They Street Legal-level performance, a perfect bitched enough that I was forced to tell Thermal Pools and Baths flop. Morrissey just has that personality them this was a Morrissey concert so show – people have been waiting and watching some goddamn respect. I was pissed that Reduces stress. Loosens up stiff joints and muscles. Alleviates jet lag. Strengthens the heart and lungs. Cures hangovers. Helps insomnia. Inspires the powers of imagination. Fortifies the body. Improves moods. Soothes the mind. And, they are the right place to meet Reykjavík residents and get reliable information about what’s happening in the city. with baited breath for him to fail. he only played three songs from You Are And best of all, the entrace fee is less than 4 USD. From the first notes of the show, when, the Quarry, but then every song was good out of nowhere a rock orchestra started so how could I complain? roaring, drums started pounding and a Beyond the performance, and the www.spacity.is beautiful voice filled the air, it was obvious few moaning Smiths fans, there was one that this wouldn’t be a failure. When you problem: The sound was rubbish. I wanted start a concert with How Soon Is Now, to hear more singing and less feedback, not you’re guaranteed success – even the lame- an enormous request. It was loud enough, o witch soap opera Charmed got by, for a but I credit Morrissey’s band for that. little while, by using a cover of it. After changing shirts three times, For those of you reading and doubting, Morrissey sang Panic. I, like many of the thinking anyone can succeed on the power people at the show, jumped out of my chair of the Smiths, you would have had to see and ran towards the stage. Morrissey there the next number from You Are the Quarry. played the role of messiah. A lot of people As he jumped into You Have Never Been were touching Morrissey’s hand. I held WWW.GRAPEVINE.IS in Love, I became a groupie, appropriate back. After seeing such a show, I had a on that day especially, Iceland’s Gay Pride moment of intense self-doubt: What have NEWS | PODCASTS | ALL BACKISSUES | LISTINGS Day. And he was somehow expecting this I done to deserve to even kiss Morrissey’s reaction, I think. He stood there, throwing feet? 46 review
summer Concert series ursday August 31th 17:00 gallerí humar eða frægð, klapparsstígur 27 eyKjavík! R free entrance 21:00 café amsterdam, hafnarstræti 5 ey ja í ! r k 500 iSKv k Langi Seli & Skuggarnir are a rockabilly quartet music written for robots, by robots. Satanic paedo- Return to Form whO that released their sole LP more than 15 years ago and phile robots. In hell. The only positive thing about have risen to near mythical status since on account of the whole spectacle was that it was kind of decadent, gue s Mínus and By Haukur Magnússon Photo by Skari their supposedly legendary live shows. They took the in a suburban way: amongst other things, I saw a man Langi Seli og stage to the applause of an interestingly mixed crowd in his fifties spew a mixture of beer and cotton candy Skuggarnir Feminist philosopher Sandra Harding is perhaps best of teenagers waiting for Mínus, wandering children in front of his adoring family. known for her critique on Western science’s claim to and their intoxicated, middle-aged parents. Shade- After a drab fireworks display, I somehow finally ursday september 7th complete and utter objectivity and “universal reason”. wearing, leather-jacketed singer/guitarist Langi Seli made my way back to Sirkus, just in time for Mínus’s According to her, true math-like objectivity can never certainly had the whole rockabilly look down to a T, second song. By that time, it was completely dark out 17:00 gallerí humar eða frægð, klapparsstígur 27 where be had, as any- and everyone’s view of the world is while the bass player sported an electric upright bass and the crowd filling Sirkus’s back yard had grown Sirkus ultimately dependent (and thus tainted) by his/her that fully made up for what he may have lacked in the considerably. In front of the stage, a small mosh pit viewpoint. Unlike many so-called post-modernists, style department. The type of music LSS specialise was throbbing in time with the furious grind-attack however, Harding’s answer to this conundrum isn’t in all sounds rather similar to my untrained ears; the of a Jesus Christ Bobby number whose name I forget. enni that we should abandon our search for objective truth; main difference between bands in that genre being A squeal of feedback punched me in the back of the Bree ntrance whEN although it may indeed be unattainable, some forms that for whatever reason, some simply suck while oth- neck and all of the sudden I remembered just how f e August 19th of discourse are clearly more objective than others. ers do not. And LSS made it clear early on that they much I used to get from watching Mínus perform. Her solution comes in the form of a method she calls belonged to the latter camp. Technically proficient, This was indeed an important show for Mínus, 2006 ‘Standpoint-epistemology’ and entails that those en- rhythmic and driving, the music was meant to sound with them returning to the stage after a year of recu- emm emM gaging in any form of discourse examine and divulge like music played by people wearing leather jackets peration and inactivity. Before their leave of absence, factors in their values and viewpoint that may affect and shades – and they did a fine job of it. My only they had played some pretty bad shows, displaying a H H 21:00 Café Amsterdam, Hafnarstræti 5 the conclusions they draw. She claims that by embrac- real complaint about LSS’s show is that the fading lack of imagination and passion with both their an- ing these ‘stronger standards’ for objectivity, we’re that daylight didn’t really become them, their songs really noying cock-rock-like demeanour and new songs that much closer to drawing truthful and unoppressive sound like they’d work that much better in a dark, didn’t seem to go anywhere. I walked out on them last conclusions about our subjects. smoke-filled environment. year, appalled by an act that used to leave me inspired. As I have no interest in writing oppressive lies, Oh, of course, the show sounded awful, a problem As the show went on, however, it became apparent enni here are some things to bear in mind while reading that would remain throughout the night. Depend- that the show was a much-needed and longed-for 500 iSK H the following concert review of local legends Mínus ing on your position, you would either hear only the return to form for a band that had swayed off course. b H and Langi Seli & Skuggarnir: bass or the vocals with some guitars creeping in if one As far as I could tell through the muddled sound, -I am a member of a band that shares a practice space tilted one’s ears at a certain degree. But it didn’t really their playing was incredibly tight. Mínus is composed gue s with Mínus. matter. After all, this was Culture Night. And that’s of some skilled instrumentalists who have played -I have been a big fan of Mínus ever since they re- not about sounding fine or even being audible. It’s together for a very long time, bouncing off each other leased their first album. The only five-star review I’ve about shaking, bumping and grinding – acts to which with a renewed vigour and energy. Their set list was ever written was for their last album, Halldór Lax- LSS provide a fine soundtrack. a mix of songs off their last two albums interspersed ness. In that review, I used many exclamation marks. After a brief encore, Mínus singer Krummi took with new tracks. While not exactly inventive, the -Mínus kind of scare me. No, not kind of, they just the stage to announce that on account of some unfore- new songs display a return to the more cacophonous plain scare me. I am afraid they will beat my ass if I seen problems, their show was delayed for a couple sounds of JCB, blending melodic choruses with give them a negative review. of hours and would take place after the evening’s confusingly aggressive verses in a manner reminiscent fireworks display. Some people with acoustic guitars of Laxness favourite Romantic Exorcism. The final That said, Mínus’s Culture Night show at Sirkus was appeared and looked like they were about to play outcome of their recent songwriting efforts will of in most respects fucking awesome. And opening band what I guessed would amount to some kind of hippie course depend on the way they manage to present Langi Seli & Skuggarnir were pretty awesome too. noodling. Wanting to preserve the atmosphere of themselves in the studio without the aid of longtime Yeah, it was a good night. decadence LSS had installed in me, I decided to flee collaborator Curver, by all accounts a big contributor june 8th · 15th · 22nd · 29th july 6th · 13th · 20th · 27th august · 3rd · 10th · 17th · 24th · 31st september 7th The annual Culture Night festival has in the dec- Sirkus and check out what was happening downtown. to their sound. ade or so since its inception evolved into some kind of I am incredibly bored by hippies, noodling and The mosh pit up front got increasingly aggressive monster, with many of its guests reportedly leaving out Jeff Buckley, but no matter what those furry folk and reached a kind of climax in the midst of the furi- the whole ‘culture’ bit in lieu of drunkenly wandering played at the Sirkus stage during Mínus’s delay, it ous and seldom heard Misdo. A group of bare-chested through downtown, taking in the occasional happening couldn’t have been worse than what I was faced with hooligans that included Messrs Handsome and Mista or concert here and there. This year’s festival wasn’t any downtown. I found myself stuck in hell, crushed, took to climbing onto the clear plastic sheeting that different and I was confronted by quite many drunken Roskilde-style, between groups of senior citizens served to guard the stage from the possibility of rain. wanderers as I made my way to Sirkus’s back yard at and baby-carrying suburbanites, all the while being It looked unsafe and scary and for a second I was wor- 8 p.m. to catch the much-hyped appearance of Mínus forced to listen to Mezzoforte’s absolutely awful take ried that the whole thing would collapse and kill the and Langi Seli & Skuggarnir. In retrospect, that whole on elevator-jazz. In all fairness, the sound quality band, thereby preventing me from hearing how some atmosphere contributed greatly to the show, as both was good and they probably didn’t hit a false note. studio time would benefit its new songs. For whatever bands play a kind of music that invites and encourages Problem was, they didn’t manage to hit a remotely reason, the plastic held up fine, but the threat seemed drunken stumbling, vomiting, bathroom encounters interesting one either. Soul-less, technically shiny to hasten the night’s descent into noisy chaos. and various other forms of debauchery. scale-driven garbage, Mezzoforte actually sounds like advertisementThis travel travel How to drive in is an Iceland Outside Reykjavík A relatively large percentage of foreign tourists in Iceland travel around the country by car. Conditions in Iceland are in many ways unusual, and often quite unlike that Kerlingarfjöll which foreign drivers are accustomed. It is therefore very important to find out how to drive in this country. We know that the landscapes are beautiful, which naturally draws the attention of driver away from the road. But in order to reach your destination safely, you must keep your full attention on driving.
This article is intended to point out the main dangers when driving in Iceland, especially the unusual ones that may come as a complete surprise to foreign drivers.
What are the speed limits? on the other side. Under The speed limit in urban areas these conditions––which are is usually 50 km/hr. Speed limit common––it is a good rule to signs are usually not posted expect the lambs or the sheep unless it is other than 50 km/hr. to run to the other side. The speed limit is often 60 km/hr on thruways, but in Seatbelts are required by residential areas it is usually law only 30 km/hr. The main rule on In Iceland, drivers and highways is that gravel roads passengers are required by law have a speed limit of 80 km/hr, to wear seatbelts, regardless and paved roads 90 km/hr. of the type of vehicle or where Signs indicate if other speed they are seated. Investigations limits apply. of fatal accidents in recent years have shown that a large Gravel roads, blind hills & majority of those who died blind curves did not have their seatbelts A common fastened. Wearing seatbelts is place for especially important because accidents to of the nature of accidents occur on urban in Iceland: many of them roads is where involve vehicles driving off the a paved road road and rolling over. In such suddenly changes to gravel. accidents, seatbelts often The main reason is that drivers mean the difference between do not reduce speed before life and death. It should be the changeover to gravel, noted that children must either and consequently lose control. wear seatbelts, or be in car Icelandic topography sometimes presents you names zon. Loose gravel on road shoulders safety seats, depending on of terrible omen. Kerlingarfjöll – “the mountains of the As my GPS reads slightly more than 1000 m of alti- has also caused a great their age and maturity. The Lonesome Traveller: Kerlingarfjöll witch” – is among these. Not surprisingly, the place was tude, the first climb of the day is just at my back: a steep number of accidents. When The Truly Enchanted Landscape of the Witches’ Mountain dreaded by the inhabitants of Iceland, who carefully ascent on a stony and unstable ground, but nothing driving on gravel roads—which Necessary to bear in mind avoided it and did not dare to enter it for exploration prohibitive. A pungent smell of sulphur already reaches are often quite narrow––it is It is against the law to operate until the 1850s, in the conviction that the area was me here, on the outer walls: witchcrafts of the land in infested by supernatural forces of every sort. I was here the distance. But this is merely the beginning. important to show caution a vehicle in Iceland after once before in 2003, when a violent storm with thick Many are the traps set on the way to the core of when approaching another having consumed alcohol, rains and 80 km/h winds surprised me on the moun- the mountains, and it does not take long before I pass car coming from the opposite and the punishment for by fabrizio frascaroli photos by fabrizio frascaroli tains. from a first taste of triumph to desperation. The ravine direction by moving as far to violating this law is rather stiff. Still, in spite of the ominous aura, Kerlingarfjöll created by the springs of the river Kisá is deep and the right as is safely possible. “So, are you ready?” becoming a serious obstacle to every footstep. I realized remains a miracle in Icelandic nature, by far one of the inaccessible, much more than I expected by studying Iceland requires that vehicle “Well, not exactly. But are there alternatives?” it at once, early in the morning, as I shyly peeped out my most fascinating destinations the country can boast. Re- the map – the waters run fast almost 200 m underneath Blind hills––where lanes are headlights be on at all times, The fifth day, I spend in uttermost solitude after tent and saw the clouds running fast across the sky. As it member when – as a child – you used to draw mountains my current position, a precipitous fall along sheer, steep not separate––can be very day and night, when driving. leaving the tourist hub Gullfoss on a Saturday morn- happened, the trail was to raise the day the weather fully as a stripe of snow-covered pyramids? If you had the im- climbable walls. I falter. Retreating and arriving at my ing. It’s not so surprising that I have picked the habit of hit me, up to a steady 700 metre rise, where the grassy dangerous, and should be agination to add green, yellow, black and red colours to destination by the flat and undemanding way around posing questions to myself. Perhaps more bizarre is the pastures have to leave way to barren and deserted lands. the shapes, then you would already have a fair picture of the mountains would feel like a defeat – the second one approached with caution. It is strictly forbidden to drive fact that I even bother to answer. But now it is time for But the wind and the climb had a reward. In the what Kerlingarfjöll looks like from a distance. Alpine in on this trip. Descending into the ravine, on the other There are also many blind off-road. Such driving results the final climb, the last stage of the journey, something afternoon, I stared at the green and rough waters of the look, and still volcanic in genesis, these mountains used hand, looked like madness – the waters are tumultuous, curves in Iceland that test a in serious damage to sensitive I have been planning, looking forward to – and yet post- small lake Rjúpnafellsvatn, the wind had wiped out the to host the only summer ski resort in Iceland, as well as and still partly covered by unstable snow bridges: a web driver’s skill. vegetation, which may take poning – for the last three years, and finally I am about last wisp of clouds and blown down the walls of haze, a legendary ski school – one which has left an indelible of complications. nature decades to repair. to see it accomplished. freeing the view of the the great glaciers in the far dis- legacy in the memory of many Icelanders – founded in Unfortunately, in my present state of mind, madness Single-lane bridges I have four days of walking behind me, roughly 100 tance. Even in their mildest form, the highlands of the 1963 by sport-guru Valdimar Örnólfsson. and recklessness feel like the right policy. Reaching the There are many Foreign travellers requiring km. Four days to cross from west to east the sector of interior make you taste the authentic flavour of remote- single-lane information regarding road the highlands contained between the rivers Hvitá and ness and forbiddingness, and when the horizon discloses Þjórsá, two of Iceland’s mightiest rivers. the sight of Vatnajökull and its snow-clad peaks, then bridges on the and driving conditions The walk officially started at Gullfoss, which I you become aware that you are experiencing the country “Icelandic topography sometimes presents you names of terrible Ring Road. should visit the Public Road admired for the first time from a privileged spot on the at its very best. No roads nor tracks, not even footprints: omen. Kerlingarfjöll – the ‘the mountains of the witch’ – is among The actual Administration’s website at eastern side. In the traveller’s loneliness, the geography only a desert stormed by the winds and an apparently rule is that the www.vegagerdin.is of memories often follows strange courses. Maybe you unlimited vastness in every direction. The exhilarating these. Not surprisingly, the place was dreaded by the inhabitants car closer to the bridge has are hiking known grounds, territories you’ve visited sensation to perhaps be the first person to ever thread the right-of-way. However, it It should be noted that the before and should be charged with remembrances. Yet, the land in that exact point, the first one to ever be fol- of Iceland, who carefully avoided it and did not dare to enter it for is wise to stop and assess the Road Traffic Directorate nothing happens: you remember, of course, but not as lowing that precise route on the highland. situation, i.e. attempt to see has produced a video for a disturbance, you remain anchored to the moment, The next day – the fourth –the wind continued, exploration until the 1850s, convinced that the area was infested what the other driver plans to foreign drivers, which covers focused on and enjoying each step you take. merciless in its attempts at dissuasion. I followed A few days ago, I was there, on the rather anony- my own shadow cast on the arid soil, and a strangely do. This sign indicates that a all the points that have by supernatural forces of every sort.” mous pastures that stretch east from Gullfoss. And bittersweet sensation invaded me: a sense of old-time single-lane bridge is ahead. been mentioned here. The then, for some reason, a tight web of associative exploration, when something still actually had yet to video can be viewed on the thoughts could not be prevented from enveloping my at- be discovered, and gaps in a map had yet to be filled. Even though the skiing facilities had to be definitively bottom of the gorge is no problem. The rest is hell. I Livestock on the road Directorate’s website, tention: a sinuous and insidious chain of memories and Eventually, after wading the fast-streaming waters of shut down late in the 1990s, following the disappear- have to follow the course of the river for a while, jump- In Iceland, you can expect www.us.is (under the English reflections dragging me away from the present trail and the river Kisá, the impression that I was following an ance of the glaciers and of the perpetual snows, Kerlin- ing and crawling between gigantic stones hurled down livestock to be on or alongside version). the fragrant smell of moss that enriched the air. The invisible but clear route across the wild dissolved, melted garfjöll still has a lot to offer to the visitor: the sight of here from above, thick snow patches and traits of low the road. It is usually sheep, weather probably did not help: not a single breath of into the seemingly never-ending sequence of black one of the largest and most vibrant areas of geothermal water. I hurt myself repeatedly. When I finally get to but sometimes horses and breeze, humid and rainy at night, and warm as is seldom dunes that lay before my feet. The contours of the terri- activity in all of Iceland, the possibility of most reward- cross the river, it turns out to be even deeper and more even cows can be in your experienced in Iceland. tory moved into its most surreal. ing one-day and multi-day hikes, and – last but not violent than supposed. The stream kicks and pushes I constantly waited for a downpour, a sudden storm. It was a bitter disappointment to find a closed hut path. This is common all over least – the comfort and warmth provided by the most me like a skittle. I reach the other side in a state of half A flood. This is not what you hope for when you are and only dry rivers when I finally arrived to Setur. Diz- welcoming and best equipped hut you will encounter in shock, my pants soaking wet up to the belt. the country, and can be alone in the highlands of the interior. I felt it was also zy and thirsty, the search for drinkable water became all the Highlands. When it is time to climb up again, I realise I have very dangerous. Sometimes me: I was nervous, not at ease. the dominant headache of the evening – and yet around Kerlingarfjöll is like a castle, a sorceress’s one, with put myself in a dangerous position. Exhausted and wet, a sheep is on one side of And then there is Monday, a new week and a heavy me I had the scenery of a triumphant sunset above the tall pinnacles, thick and impassable walls, snares and I am at a slope, which is frightfully steep, the friable soil the road and her lambs set of changes. The wind turned and grew in intensity, nearby Hofsjökull glacier and wild oasis of Þjórsárver. deep moats. A necromantic fortress that steals the hori- >>> continues on next page 50 travel
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does not allow a firm grip, and the 17 kilos of my backpack is a matter of proportion: at a certain stage, the creative powers me before has set loose my boldness and diluted my fears. I let feel like an incumbent threat, ready to catapult me backwards of the forces of the Earth feel so overwhelming, that the sense myself go through all this with strange confidence and serenity. into a hopeless tumble. It is while I wonder why on earth the of wonder gives way to dread and fear. In Kerlingarfjöll, that When I reach the pass at the west of Hveradalahnúkur, I Free pickup at your hotel in the Reykjavík area. masochist in me is so often prevailing, that I see a slight sliver subtle border seems often crossed. know that it is over. My past defeat is avenged: with the bless- of hope: almost a natural stair, not so many metres away from There is an abundance of snow left up here – the most ing of the weather, I have conquered the mountains. The many my post, leading up towards less steep ground. I start scram- in the last ten years, I found out later. I let myself go to an souls of the highlands seem captured in my smell: the stench bling my way in that direction, partly sustaining my steps with exuberant sense of intoxication: I have just accomplished of swamp, dust, mud and sulphur have mixed with my own the trekking poles, partly with the help of my bare hands. I something terribly dangerous (which – for honesty’s sake – I sweat in an exotic blend – I reckon great potentialities for the find hold in a huge block of pumice, but the treacherous rock should not even have dared), after three years of wait I am market. The rest of the trail is like a Wagnerian symphony in breaks like clay under my grip, falling down the precipice into about to finally defeat these mountains, and I am gazing at one footsteps: a swift nosedive towards the base camp of Ásgarður, Contact Info: Tel: +354 577 6050 - Fax: +354 567 9195 - Tangarhöfði 8 - www.bergcar.is - [email protected] the water with great roar. of the most impressive spectacles of Icelandic landscape in a the sun still warm and high in the sky. Exaltation. The cigarette I smoke once on top again, finally out of that weather-blessed day. Nowhere else in Iceland – not even in the When I arrive at the hut – after 12 hours and 25 km of nightmare, is among the best in many months. I have reached much-celebrated Landmannalaugar – had I the possibility to walking – I find no dreadful “kerling” (frump, witch) greeting the other side of the ravine, and I am at 1000 m ASL again. arrive this close to the heart of geothermal activity. me. Rather, it is three girls in their twenties, basically the same The peaks of Kerlingarfjöll encircle a volcanic plateau, But the day and the trail are not over yet, and there is still age as me, one Polish and two Icelandic – a sign of the times. which will astound any observer. Here, earth and water are sweat and pain on the road to final achievement. The route I “Yes, we run this thing” confirms Magnea, proudly point- perennially at work on strange alchemies. For around 5 km it drew from the map and stored in my GPS is proving accurate ing out that the hut is managed by the fairer sex. is all an endless sequence of fumaroles, hot springs, bubbling and comfortable, except for the second massive gorge ploughed Ruffled hair, muddy clothes, hands stained by black grease mud, steaming pools, green ice-cold lakes, gorges and ravines by fast-streaming waters. And still more scrambling along – the signs of hard work in the outdoors, I am shown around. presents continually carved by ever-running waters – painful scars of slopes of mud and fragile rock, and steep descents on snow The whole resort and its facilities (indoor accommodation in the land. And the shades and the colours! Anything in the mantles suddenly collapsing into the void of a frightening different houses, restaurant, campsite, showers and wonderful range of orange, lava black, white, emerald green, pale yellow, precipice. hot tubs) are powered by a small plant down the river: an old crimson red… There is a confusing and blurred boundary, It is a chain of challenges – especially to the nerves, as the crock from the 1930s. beyond which the beauty of nature suddenly becomes horrid. It day is growing late – but that inebriating feeling that captured >>> continues on page 52 Icelandic folksongs Photo: Heimo Scmidt / Spaksmannsspjarir Curator: Matthias Wagner K A Í S • s i . l j • S K C A M ’ E L & N O S S N Ó J
ICELANDIC FASHION 2006
Nine of Iceland’s top fashion designers reveal 38 extraordinary pieces in Iceland’s fi rst exhibit which focuses only on fashion in the new Icelandic culture.
The Culture House - Þjóðmenningarhúsið The exhibit is on view from 29.06.2006 - 27.02.2007. Open daily from 11 am – 5 pm
Hverfi sgata 15, 101 Reykjavík Bus stop and parking close by on Hverfi sgata s. +354 545 1400 Guided tours booking; tel. + 354 545 1406
FOREX_grapevine_MAR06.indd 1 2006-03-31 14:20:10 52 travel
“We expect it to break down from one day to the other” explains Þóra, who seems to be almost emotionally connected to the power plant, and to enjoy especially the roughness of her summer occupation. I am guided through the menu. The focus is on traditional Icelandic food. Home-made bread is baked everyday in the hot springs on the plateau up there, five km from here. The more I get entangled in the magic of the place, the less I can believe what I see and hear. And again that bittersweet sensation of old-times something. Here you have one of the most charming places in Iceland, three young women who deliberately bother to make food as their grandparents did, exploiting the energy from a cracking dam and power plant built in the 1930s… and && probably, at this very moment, even on a day like this – 20° WhalesWhales outside and bright sky above – 80% of Reykjavík population are numbing their brains with such TV anaesthetics as Rock- Puffin Island star: Supernova, or sinking into a nightlife that all too often nears the profundities of a Mexican brothel. Take part in an adventure at sea with an “We are very ambitious” is the crystal-clear explanation I am offered. Of course. Blessed youth. unforgettable 3-hour trip into the world The night is a joyful one. I start boozing around in the hot tubs. People hand me a can of beer. I feel I am going com- of whales and sea birds. pletely native: what’s more Icelandic than drinking beer inside a pool of hot water? Professional deformation: after all, this Located in Reykjavik's old harbour, only a 5 minute walk from paper I keep somewhere at home states that I am an anthropol- ogist. And then it is endless chatting and more drinking until the city centre. late in the night. It is a diversified socialscape: members of the Icelandic Glaciological Society (lovely people, who still talk A spacious double-deck and a special viewing area on the of the old days at the ski school with heartfelt and touching passion), a hardcore feminist mountain guide, a German artist third deck ensures a spectacular view into the deep blue sea. in search for inspiration, two volunteers from the rescue team. Puffin season The necromantic fortress turns out to hold a core of fairy tale. I spend the next day in Kerlingarfjöll, relaxing, enjoying April May June July Aug Sept Oct Call us on further nice weather, exploring the highest peaks and the amaz- 9:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 or visit ing horizons they disclose in a sunny day, and getting lectured 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 about moraines (Magda has come to Iceland from Krakow in 555 3565 www.elding.is the context of a study program in geological sciences). 17:00 17:00 17:00 As soon as I take my seat on the bus that will drive me back to Reykjavík on Friday afternoon, a sudden sense of tearing melancholy assails me. I go through all the stages of the journey – my uneasiness the first days, the heaviness of the weather, the omens in the unnatural stillness and then the warnings in the wind – and I am finally given to understand. As I leave this place, I am not unchanged.
Reykjavík harbour Tel: (+354) 555 3565 Fax: (+354) 554 7420 [email protected]
Travel Guides Can Be Honest. Really Available at your nearest bookstore 54 travel www.airiceland.is | tel 570 3030 ICE-land Takes Puns to New Low Fronts The Glacier Exhibition in Höfn
by valgerður þóroddsdóttir photo by skari
There are 56 words in the Icelan- collection of tunes sung out boldly by Check out our tours dic language for “snow & ice”. In a chorus of men. English, we have “snow” and “ice”. The exhibit then, focused mainly If there can possibly be that many on the historical aspects of the gla- words for the different conditions of cier, presenting displays about tours in our new 2006 that-icky-cold-stuff (now I guess we on Vatnajökull through history with have three), then perhaps there is a maps and photographs. It offered no lot to say about it, enough to fill a educated theories or research about museum, and perhaps, then, Iceland- the cultural aspects, but instead brochure ers are the best to talk about it. did a thorough, and in the long run At the Glacier Exhibition in impressive, job of chronicling its his- Höfn, they do, at length, tell you tory. everything you ever wanted to know Closely beside the action-packed about the country’s prize pile of ice, bursts of Bond stood what was Contact us, or any Vatnajökull Glacier, and glaciers in perhaps the highlight of the exhibit, general, as well as its surrounding an enormous walk-in plastic ice cave. history, and science. Filling in the Up the walls of the lofty walkway travel agent in Iceland, corners of the thorough overview of hung blue sheets of (plastic) ice, glacial nature conservation, they also casting gloomy shadows around the for reservations offer the warmer side: the cultural streams of green light coming from aspect of glacial research. the room at the far end. In a small Launching into the discussion of opening in the “ice” wall, there was how the glacier has impacted the Ice- a tiny one-dimensional silhouette of hymns in the background behind walls imposed on me an overwhelm- Conservation”. tel 570 3030 | fax 570 3001 landic people and society in its very a man trapped inside an icy crevice. one of these walls. I followed the ing sense of solitude. Walking out it was somehow first exhibition room by listing every Beside it a sign explained the story of light to the end of the tunnel where The organization in the mu- surprising that the air in Höfn was [email protected] | www.airiceland.is one of the aforementioned 56 words nineteen-year-old Sigurður Björns- there was another opening in the seum then involved each room in a a little bit more chilly than inside. on a clear plastic panel, the museum son, who was looking for his sheep wall, this one big enough to walk theme. The plastic room, I later dis- Outside, I could see where the outlet then abandoned the 56 word discus- on Breiðamerkurfjall, a mountain into. Here the floor was made of covered, was called “experience”. In glaciers reached out towards the sion, and got to the fun stuff. that extends into the Vatnajökull glass and it was slippery like ice, the second gallery on the first floor, village. After spending a full hour Upstairs, in the corner of one of glacier, when an avalanche occurred. and a pillar stretched between it and for example, there were numerous inside, I felt interested and just about the rooms, a flat-screen television Trapped 28 metres under the surface the low ceiling. The sound effects 3D exhibits of the animal life on prepared for some glacial exploration. was showing clips from the James of the ice, Björnsson, only able to this time were of dripping water, and around the glacier. In one of the Bond film Die Another Day, which move a single finger, maintained and through yet another opening, main displays stood a giant stuffed ICE-land Glacier Exhibition, Haf- was shot on-location on the glacier, consciousness by singing hymns through about six layers of plastic ice, woodland caribou, a stuffed hooded narbraut 30, 780 Hornafjörður. www. and in the opposite room was a dis- loudly to himself until the rescue water was streaming down the wall, seal and a stuffed arctic fox, almost hornafjordur.is/is-land/english play comparing the clothes and gear squad, following the sound of his soaked in green light projected from smiling as he lightly rested his paw – Car provided by Hertz Car Rental, used by climbers past and present. In voice, found him 24 hours later. somewhere in the small opening and on the breast of a stuffed dove lying Flugvallarvegi, 101 Reykjavík, Tel.: the background in the second room, As I walked further down, the reflected all around by the floor. on the ground. The room was titled 505-0600, www.hertz.is there was a sampling of what I can eeriness of this plastic tunnel was Though my travel mates stood close “Nature and National Parks”, and – Accommodations provided by Hótel only assume to call glacier hiking further enhanced as I started to by in just in the next room, engrossed its close, but obviously not close Edda, Tel.: 444-4000, www.hotel- songs: a sombre folky and rather long barely make out “Sigurður” singing in the adventures of Bond, the cold enough, neighbour was “Nature edda.is Grapevine Ad Index Accomodation Museums and gallaries The right jeep for a journey in Iceland Guesthouse Móar 54 City Library 31 Grundafjörður Hostel 54 The Culture House 50 0 4 / 2 0 0 6 Salka Guesthouse 54 Gallery Fold 33 Gallery Hafnarborg 44 Activities Glacier Museum 41 Arctic Rafting 15 Gljúfrasteinn Museum 31 Blue Lagoon 43 Settlement Exhibition 33 City Centre Booking Service 56 City Centre Tourist Info 4 Shopping Elding Whale Watching 53 66 North 3 Classifieds Hafsúlan Whale Watching 42 Álafoss Gift Store 41 Reykjavík Excursions 13 Cintamani 7 ÍSLENSKA AUGLÝSINGASTOFAN/SIA.IS HER 33245 06/2006 Spa City 45 Handknitting association of Iceland 44 Salka Guesthouse Icewear 9 Skipagata 1 600 Akureyri Grundarfjörður Hostel Cafes, Bars and Restaurants Lýsi 19 tel: 461-2340 2 Fiskar 28 Naked Ape 29 [email protected] A. Hansen 25 Rammagerðin Gift Store 17 American Style 32 Thule Light Beer 56 Bernhöftsbakarí 35 Viking souvenir shop 10 Þjóðveldisbærinn Café Roma 5 Vík Wool 35 A reconstructed viking farm from the 11´th century. Situated in Þjórsárdalur valley, comfortable - affordable Café Rósenberg 26 approx. 1 1/2 hour from Reykjavík.(Take Central in Snæfellsnes Fjöruborðið 41 Transportation route 1, turn off at route 30 and then again at route 32) Opening hours every day from Fljótt og Gott 37 Air Iceland 55 10-12 and 13-18. Friðrik V 49 Berg Car Rental 51 Tel. 488-7713 Galbi 29 Budget Car Rental 53 [email protected] Hressó 35 Hertz Car Rental 55 www.hostel.is In Iceland there are many beautiful places to explore that can only be visited with the Guesthouse Móar Humarhúsið 45 Road Traffic Directorate 48 +354-5626533 help of a jeep. Instead of being in a crowded tour bus you can plan a trip on your own. 301 Akranes O Sushi 34 tel: 431-1389/897-5142 +354-8956533 Sea Baron 35 Other services Hertz has a great variety of jeeps and 4WD vehicles to choose from. We have 7 rental e-mail:[email protected] Bring THIS AD and 4 rooms, 9 beds + 2 summerhouses 1x1 Segafredo 5 Endurmenntun HÍ 31 locations around Iceland and several service stations along the way. without bath 3000ISK sleeping bag acc. get 15% discount! Shalimar 29 Forex 51 +354 50 50 600 • www.hertz.is 2000ISK. Viking Village 49 Musik 51 Cooking facilities available We are your car rental experts in Iceland. Hertz locations in Iceland: Keflavík Airport, Reykjavík, Ísafjörður, Akureyri, Höfn, Egilsstaðir Við Tjörnina 29 grapevine.is
REYKJAVÍK´S YOUR FREE COPY ENGLISH LANGUAGE NEWSPAPER ISSUE thirteen: august 25 - september 8
Stuffed with stuff
“There was this American couple looking through my book and they said, ‘You have a lot of incest jokes in this book.’ I just said I was from Iceland. They just said, ‘Of course.’” Hugleikur Dagsson deals with his new international following. Page 12.
“One of Reykjavík’s better aspects, like Airwaves has shown us in the past, is that if no one else is willing to, you can just do things your- self.” Social Democratic Councilman Stefán Jón Hafstein, demonstrating the logic that lost his party their governing position, in his explanation of why the city shouldn’t worry about losing its rock venues. Page 24.
“He continued by telling the girls in the audience they were all virgins again for the night. With no husbands, boyfriends or fiancés, they were told they were also all very single and about to witness something they had never seen before.” Steinunn Jakobsdóttir preparing to get wowed at a Chippendales performance. Page 36.
“Welcome horse enthusiasts and, well, Jesus, this is just like a David Lynch film.” Ragnar Kjartans of Trabant, speaking to a befuddled country crowd. Page 40.
“Soulless, technically shiny scale-driven garbage, Mez- zoforte actually sounds like music written for robots, by robots. Satanic paedophile robots. In hell. The only posi- tive thing about the whole spectacle was that it was kind of decadent, in a subur- ban way…” Haukur Magnússon evaluates Iceland’s most revered jazz fusion band at Mennin- garnótt. Page 46.