RISE OF THE PLYSCRAPERS ROAD TRIP Why the world is turning to timber for its high-rise future Is the classic adventure by road the sole BENEDICT CUMBERBATCH preserve of the US? The Middle East Film and Comic Con, and the life of a superhero Scotland has the answer OPEN SKIES
Create your own Dubai adventure
RECLAIMING THE DESERT Forget what you think you know – this is the ultimate insider’s guide to Dubai
OS86.COVER Dubai-FINAL.indd 1 3/22/18 3:56 PM AP DP SI PASSIONNE EMIRATES OPEN SKIES 390x260mm GB INTER.indd 2 13/02/2018 16:17 AP DP SI PASSIONNE EMIRATES OPEN SKIES 390x260mm GB INTER.indd 3 13/02/2018 16:17 Live Loud. The All-New VELOSTER.
hyundai.com/veloster
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EDITOR-IN- MANAGING PARTNER & EDITORIAL CHIEF GROUP EDITOR DIRECTOR OBAID HUMAID AL TAYER IAN FAIRSERVICE GINA JOHNSON [email protected]
GROUP SENIOR SENIOR SENIOR EDITOR EDITOR ART DIRECTOR DESIGNER
MARK EVANS ANDREW NAGY OLGA PETROFF ROUI FRANCISCO [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]
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SURAJIT DUTTA SALIL KUMAR LONDRESA FLORES AARTI SAUNDALKAR [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]
CONTRIBUTORS IAIN AKERMAN, CHRISTOPHER BEANLAND, CHARLIE CARVER, EMMA COILER, GARY EVANS, SARAH FREEMAN, DOM JOLY, REBECCA MATTHEWS CAROLYN STRITCH, CHRIS YOUNG COVER: ROUI FRANCISCO
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EDITORIAL CONSULTANTS FOR EMIRATES EDITOR ARABIC EDITOR DEPUTY EDITOR MANNA TALIB HATEM OMAR CATHERINE FREEMAN
Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy please contact the editor. Any opinion expressed is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts. Comments and facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal, financial or other decisions. Articles are by their nature general and specialist advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.
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OS86.P06-11_FrontSection.indd 8 3/22/18 7:02 PM First Class Pack Business Class Pack Economy Class Pack 10GB & 1000 mins for AED 1,000 5GB & 500 mins for AED 600 2GB & 60 mins for AED 350 DubA i’s #1 s how
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La Perle Open Skies English 195x260mm 2018.indd 1 3/14/18 4:17 PM CONTENTS
INTRO
16 20 24 26 28 30 36 38 43 EXPERIENCE STAY TRAVEL DISPATCH EXPO 2020 NEIGHBOURHOOD THE YEAR LUNCH DOM ESSENTIAL OF ZAYED WITH JOLY FEATURES
47 55 63 THE ROAD TRIP DXB FIELD MANUAL THE SAVIOUR OF SOCCER BRIEFING
70 72 74 76 82 88 90 NEWS INSIDE DESTINATION SMART GATE, ROUTE THE CELEBRITY EMIRATES VISA AND COMFORT MAP FLEET DIRECTIONS
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OS86.P06-11_FrontSection.indd 11 3/22/18 8:10 PM ADC app Open skies - April issue advert 260x195-CMYK.pdf 1 3/22/18 4:21 PM
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RECLAIMING THE DESERT Our idea behind this month’s cover is a metaphor for how you should tackle Dubai: grab everything the city has to offer, mix it all about a bit and get moving.
Welcome to Dubai. Please head straight to the top of the world’s tallest building, pausing briefly to watch the Dubai Fountain (by way of Dubai Aquarium in Dubai Mall). Don’t forget to visit Ski Dubai and take your photo at Burj Al Arab on your way out. For those yet to visit, it could be easy to reduce Dubai to a collection of the world’s biggest, tallest and most expensive – particularly in a guide of what to do there. But to boil it down to a collection of clickbait stats would be to do it a major disservice. Don’t get me wrong, Dubai has all of those things (and more), the cloud-skimming architecture, the record-breaking attractions and the SOCIAL MEDIA glamorous restaurants by chefs with a TV back catalogue. But there’s also
a rich history to explore, and winding alleyways to wander and hole-in- facebook.com/ the-wall restaurants where you can find some of the best food you’ll ever openskiesmag try. You just have to know where to look.
Not that I blame you for being taken in by the superlatives. I’ve lived in twitter.com/ the city for 11 years, but still get distracted by the latest must-visit spot openskiesmag or out-of-the-way cool space… well, no more! To help you (and me) we
created an essential guide to Dubai: a collection of local knowledge, fun instagram.com/ ideas and a Venn diagram or two. Not just for visitors, it’s for residents too. openskiesmag Head to page 55, create a bespoke itinerary and explore the city for real.
ANDREW NAGY ALSO AVAILABLE SENIOR EDITOR ON YOUR IPAD
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OS86.P06-11_FrontSection.indd 13 3/22/18 8:10 PM Sharjah Aquarium Explore the astonishing hidden world of the deep sea life
Experience up-close encounters with around 100 marine species native to the region’s waters. Take an underwater journey and discover everything from large ocean creatures to the small aquatic life that can be found in the UAE’s rock pools, coral reefs, lagoons and mangroves. IntroNEIGHBOURHOOD
EXPERIENCE • STAY • INTRO DISPATCH • EXPO 2020 • NEIGHBOURHOOD
APR. 19-21 ROMEO AND JULIET The Moscow City Ballet’s performance of the world’s most famous love story.
DUBAI, UAE | DUBAIOPERA.COM Turn over to plan your month
OS86.P15_Intro Cover.indd 15 3/22/18 7:06 PM EXPERIENCE
THE PLAN Events to aim for this month
APR. 5-7 MIDDLE EAST FILM AND COMIC CON Arafaat Ali Khan, co-founder of the Middle East Film and Comic Con, talks cosplay, unique art and geeks
WORDS: Andrew Nagy
What are you most looking forward regional cosplayers, Vega, bring to at this year’s event? the house down at the very first That’s potentially the most MEFCC in 2012 with his Jin difficult question you could ask. Kazama cosplay from Tekken. It’s impossible to recommend He had built a set of wings that just one thing, there’s so much actually opened up from his happening. We’ve got Funko and back. Netflix attending with exclusives Let’s cut to the chase – which for the very first time, lots of celebrities are coming? amazing merchandise stands We have big names. There’s and some great workshops and Stranger Things star Natalia talks. However, if I have to choose Dyer who plays Nancy Wheeler, one, then I’ll go for an area rather and Game of Thrones star than one stand: Artists’ Alley. Kristian Nairn who plays The amount of talent and utterly Hodor. We also have Karl unique products on display – Urban, who’s played heroic and on sale – here will be characters like Eomer in The absolutely astounding. Lord of the Rings trilogy, How has Middle East Film and McCoy in the latest Star Trek Comic Con (MEFCC) developed? movies and Skurge in Thor: It’s happened at quite a rate. Ragnarok. The region shouted loud and clear What top tip can you give us? that it was a nation of geeks back Consider picking up an Al Awal in 2012 – and we were glad to Premium Pass. This will get you hear it. We really weren’t sure what in every day, fast-track you to expect at that first event, but through the event and give you managed to attract over 14,000 a host of other goodies. The best visitors. That has since grown to part? One Pass holder will get over 60,000 in recent years. a special portrait drawn by The Cosplay is a huge part of the scene, Simpsons’ annimator, Phil Ortiz, how does Dubai shape up? during the show. I remember seeing one of our top
Enjoy dozens of superhero action movies on today’s flight, including Justice League, Wonder Woman, Captain America, Thor, Guardians of the Galaxy and more.
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FOR YOUR CONSIDERATION…
APR. 3-7 GITEX SHOPPER The latest edition of Gitex Shopper brings the best new gadgets all under one roof in Dubai. Open 12 hours a day for five days, this one is a must-see for any visiting tech- heads, so be sure to leave enough room in your suitcase.
DUBAI, UAE | GITEXSHOPPERDUBAI.COM
APR. 13-22 FLATPACK FESTIVAL Taking place every spring in Birmingham, UK, this unusual film festival takes over the city in eclectic style, and features a 100-year-old cinema, an 18th century cathedral, animated sushi, screenings, exhibitions, performances and parties.
BIRMINGHAM, UK | FLATPACKFESTIVAL.ORG
UNTIL APR. 22 MEMORIES OF DALI April is your last chance to check out the fantastic exhibition, Salvador Dali. The Memories in Dubai. Star attractions include his famed Shower of Jasmine painting – made public for only the third time ever – along with classic images of the man himself.
DUBAI, UAE | SALVADORDALI.AE
UNTIL APR. 22 MELBOURNE INTL. COMEDY FESTIVAL One of the top comedy festivals in the world featuring three weeks of shows and events. It might be part of why Melbourne is often named the world’s finest city.
MELBOURNE, AUSTRALIA | COMEDYFESTIVAL.COM.AU
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APR. 26 BENEDICT CUMBERBATCH The British actor on wearing a cape, Comic Con and keeping Marvel secrets ahead of the latest blockbuster, Avengers: Infinity War
The best thing about being part of the Marvel Cinematic Universe is, well, all of it The quality of the storytelling, the incredible visuals, working with some wonderfully creative people and, of course, the dedication of the fans. The worst? Probably keeping quiet about it all. The secrecy surrounding Marvel movies is well known and something like Avengers: Infinity War has been 10 years coming. There’s been an incredible amount of hard work put into this, so you really don’t want to let any spoilers out. Doctor Strange has been an amazing experience The physical work and fight scenes were a first for me – I had never experienced anything on that level. He’s obviously an iconic character, too. I just loved the whole process. You want to know what Doctor Strange will be doing in Avengers: Infinity War? I’ll refer you to my secrecy answer. The cast is stellar Everybody is great. Obviously, we’re not all on set at the same time, but Marvel’s The there is a collective togetherness San Diego Comic Con was a real eye-opener Avengers and and desire to make it a great movie. It was just before Doctor Strange was released and there Avengers: Age of Ultron are showing When I wore the costume for the fist was this long line of people queuing. The event hadn’t in Marvel Movies time it was pretty special started yet, so I asked one of the organisers what they were on ice. That was the penny-drop moment. queuing for and they replied that it was for the following I was looking in the mirror and felt day. It was sweltering heat and these fans were literally like a kid at Halloween. Alex, our prepared to wait in line for days – that was a wow moment. incredible costume designer, looked I would love to visit a Comic Con in Dubai one day. at me and said: “You’re having a superhero moment, aren’t you?” AVENGERS: INFINITY WAR IS IN CINEMAS ON APRIL 26
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UAE ENDLESS SUMMER A secret escape in the heart of Dubai’s thriving metropolis, Jumeirah Dar Al Masyaf offers privacy and prestige in equal measure
WORDS: Gina Johnson IMAGES: Jumeirah The Hollywood Connection Madinat Jumeirah is a founding partner of the annual Dubai International Film Festival. Some of the world’s most famous actors – including Tom Cruise, Cate Blanchett and George Clooney – have gathered here to celebrate the region’s thriving film industry.
Bastakiya neighbourhood with hotels, world-class restaurants and a vibrant bazaar-like souk. The property comprises a collection of rooms and Imagine a place with suites in clusters reminiscent
the silver service of of the traditional Arabian
Emirates offers four DUBAI a luxury resort, the summerhouses of the region. 55.2708° E 55.2708° daily services to Male. N 25.2048° secluded charm of a Its understated elegance is Choose from three non-stop services, and a daily service private summerhouse virtually unrivalled with the that stops in Colombo. and the ambience of the gentle seven Malakiya Villas offering waterways of Venice? palace-like proportions to cater No stranger to superlatives, to multi-generational families. Dubai’s boldest, biggest and Any wonder that even the most beautiful attractions are city’s astute locals choose to usually more synonymous with check in when they simply want the spotlight. to check out without having to Sky-high private helipads do much more than call a cab. and underwater restaurants luxury bolthole nestled within And for those who like their accessed via submarine being the winding waterways of summerhouse sojourn to offer no exception, the city lays down behemoth brand Jumeirah’s a little slice of action, guests the gauntlet when it comes beachside resort complex. have complimentary access to off-the-chart, Instagram- Jumeirah Dar Al Masyaf is to the region’s renowned worthy hotel experiences. located within Madinat Jumeirah, aquatic adventure attraction, Which is why it is all the an architectural and lifestyle Wild Wadi Waterpark. more delicious to discover a precinct inspired by the city’s old JUMEIRAH.COM
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STAY
MOROCCO AN OCEANFRONT ESCAPE With stunning architecture, a Moroccan soul, sublime French cuisine and uninterrupted ocean views, the Four Seasons Hotel is your hideaway in Casablanca
WORDS: Sarah Freeman IMAGES: Four Seasons Casablanca
Casablanca’s original oceanfront hotel certainly makes the 7.5898° W 7.5898° 33.5731° N N 33.5731°
CASABLANCA most of its prestigious location. The Atlantic is omnipresent, from signature restaurant Bleu’s nautical- themed décor to the guest-rooms’ amazing, westward ocean views. The hotel even organises weekly group jogs along the city’s 3km- long La Corniche, which stretches east to west from earthquake- proof Hassan II Mosque, to Casa’s iconic El Hank Lighthouse. Sequestered in 40 acres of landscaped Moorish gardens, the hotel’s resort-style setting feels a million miles from the exotic chaos of downtown Casablanca, despite being a mere 10-minute taxi ride from the centre. Cues to its North African locale continue inside, with Bedouin- style bench seating and brass CASABLANCA WHILE YOU’RE lanterns gracing the vast lobby, IN CASABLANCA bathrobes and VRAI by Fragonard where you can sip on exclusive Satisfy your sweet tooth at deluxe toiletries. If all that R&R Moroccan teas in its riad- Pâtisserie Bennis Habous. has worked up an appetite, This fourth generation-owned styled Mint Lounge. A modern bakery in leafy Quartier Habous choose from Mediterranean, interpretation of this traditional has been lovingly churning Provençal and local Moroccan out traditional almond-paste Moroccan design infuses the 186 pastries and macaroons for dishes across the hotel’s three guest rooms and suites, which nearly 90 years. restaurants, or you can keep marry neutral tones and dark RUN THE SITES things casual with poolside woods with plush furnishings tapas and tacos at Latitude 33. and Berber-inspired, stone, brass Our advice? Get dressed up and porcelain design elements. Run 3km along La Corniche and head for sunset dining at If you’re looking for total EL HANK LIGHTHOUSE HASSAN II MOSQUE contemporary French brasserie, relaxation, there are customisable Bleu – the oysters are a must. Emirates operates a daily A380 service to Casablanca. Four Seasons beds, cosseting terry FOURSEASONS.COM
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THREE TO TUNE IN Three 2018 music festivals TRAVEL ESSENTIALS for your calendar Any traveller worth their salt should have a quality pair of headphones packed in their carry-on
CUSTOM FIT The soft lambskin ear cushion is adaptive memory foam that moulds to the curve of your ear for supreme comfort and breathability.
1 Coachella (April 13-15/20-22) Go for: a LA festival over two weekends that’s perfect for big name celeb-spotting and even bigger name acts. Headliners: The Weeknd, Beyoncé, Eminem.
QUIET TIME SWIPE RIGHT The Active Noise Change track, Cancellation (ANC) adjust volume has been improved or cancel ANC, so that you can all with a finger tune the rest of the swipe on the world out. outer case of the right headphone.
2 Benicàssim (July 19-22) Go for: some guitar legends and much- needed sun in this Spanish resort situated just one hour away from Valencia. Headliners: The Killers, Liam Gallagher.
FEATURING Beoplay H9i, THE HEADPHONES THE FESTIVAL US$599 BEOPLAY.COM Music is made for movement, so a trusty pair of headphones should Looking for your be an item that you spend that little extra on ahead of any adventure favourite artist around the world. They will be the source of your holiday soundtrack, to listen to on today’s flight? they will come in handy when you don’t want to talk (just sit with them Press the search on, in silence) and, thanks to active noise-cancellation tech, they’ll help button on ice and type the you get a good night’s sleep wherever you might lay your head. artist’s name. The sturdy and stylish Beoplay H9i is Bang & Olufsen’s flagship Or pick up the ice guide in your headphone and is a serious piece of kit. The sound has been beefed up 3 seat pocket and in this new edition – with the bass in particular getting a kick – while check the music Bestival (August 2-5) listings where they’ll even sense when you’ve taken them off and pause the play, Go for: a trip to the Isle of White that you artists are listed ensuring that you can haggle with a taxi driver or speak broken Spanish normally wouldn’t make, along with great alphabetically. bands and fancy-dress opportunities. to a hotelier, safe in the knowledge that you won’t miss a thing. Headliners: Grace Jones, Chaka Kahn.
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OS86.P24_TravelEssentials.indd 24 3/22/18 7:03 PM I THINK WE’VE MET BEFORE? Was it in New York, Paris or maybe Bangkok? We’re always happy to see a familiar face. After you’ve made yourself comfortable in one of our stylish rooms, head over to one of the bars, where you’ll enjoy flawless service and chic surroundings. Discover your new favorite destination with Renaissance Downtown Hotel, Dubai. For more information visit renaissancedowntowndubai.com or email [email protected]
RENAISSANCE DOWNTOWN HOTEL, DUBAI Marasi Drive Business Bay Dubai PO Box 191984 United Arab Emirates t: +971.4.512.5555 CANADA THE RISE OF THE PLYSCRAPERS Toronto is reaching for the sky with a new generation of wooden buildings leading to a healthier, environmentally friendly lifestyle
WORDS: Chistopher Beanland
In the frozen north, Canadian cities TORONTO
like Toronto are turning back the clock and embracing the material TORONTO 43.6532° N N 43.6532° 79.3832° W 79.3832° that all their buildings used to be made of: wood. And now that trend is spreading around the world. “Building with wood is very similar to playing with Lego,” laughs Chris Precht. “A wooden high rise is assembled with building elements. And like Lego, it can be built up – but also built down again. Like us, buildings have a limited lifespan and as architects we need to start thinking about the Emirates flies three times weekly from Dubai to Toronto with the Airbus A380. whole life cycle of a building and what happens to all the elements afterwards. You can build a LEED- certified (ecologically sustainable) building, but if building slimmer, and it’s four times lighter than all useful materials are wasted after its lifespan, a concrete and steel structure. That means a how sustainable is it? With a wooden building, larger useful floor area. Developers are building most of the modules can be reused. I like to think faster with less labour, because many parts can about circular processes, rather than linear ones.” be prefabricated in indoor environments. That Precht is the head of the innovative architecture also means better quality control. But it also studio, Penda, which has offices in Salzburg and has ecological benefits: wood stores CO2, it’s a Beijing. But Penda currently has eyes on Toronto. renewable material that grows with a natural Canada’s largest city has rediscovered its love energy source. Wood can be recycled after the for wooden buildings, and Penda’s proposed life cycle of a building is over. It’s healthy, too, project is the most eye-popping of the lot. The and people living in a wooden home actually Toronto Tree Tower will be 18 stories of staggered have a lower heart rate than those who don’t.” wooden apartments that will look a lot like Tetris Around the world, plyscrapers are rising, bricks that have dropped from a big Game Boy from London to Melbourne to Vienna. Wood is screen in the sky. At 62 metres tall and with the latest must-have material: it’s light, cheap, 4,500 square metres of space, its blocky look plentiful. It harks back to more primal times is said to be inspired by the famous Habitat when we built with whatever was to hand. It 67 Brutalist apartments in nearby Montreal. seems more environmentally friendly, more But why wood rather than concrete and homely, too. And new technologies like CLT steel? “Building with wood is a win-win for (cross-laminated timber) allow wood to really developers and residents,” says Precht. “A reach for the skies. “Timber is a renewable wooden structure has economical benefits like building material with proven advantages
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The wooden cities Three other places where timber is the go-to material
SYDNEY A brand-new high-spec wooden office block recently opened in Sydney. The six-floor building is made from Cross Laminated Timber (CLT).
TOKYO Sumitomo Forestry Co.’s W350 will boast an incredible 70 storeys and be the world’s tallest wooden building. Unfortunately, it’s not set for health and the environment, and timber most famous ‘wood’ architect, and author to open until 2041. buildings can stand as long or even longer than of The Case for Tall Wood Buildings: How a building made from concrete,” says Maria Mass Timber Offers a Safe, Economical and Molander of C.F. Møller architects in Stockholm. Environmentally Friendly Alternative for Tall “International research shows that tall timber Building Structures. He’s also based in Canada, buildings are the key to building a sustainable where the wood bug has bitten him hard. “That future, and engineered timber is the building level of change is outstanding and inspiring.” block of the future and the most effective way Canadian cities have said yes to wood. It doesn’t to convert to a sustainable building industry.” take a degree to work out why: Canada is covered Things are moving so fast now that hardly a in trees. Toronto has already welcomed several week goes by without new plans for a plyscraper big wooden buildings in the last couple of years – especially in Canada. “The change in the – including a residential block called Heartwood OSLO Just outside of Oslo, the last four or five years has been incredible. It The Beach, at 1884 Queen St. East and Woodbine current tallest timber feels like the concept of altering the way we Ave, and also innovative wooden office blocks at building on Earth is build was near impossible just a few years ago 60 and 80 Atlantic Ave in Liberty Village. Many rising. Mjøstårnet will be 18 storeys high when it but now countries like China have updated more are planned for the city, but the Toronto opens in December 2018. their building code to permit 18-storey wood Tree Tower will be the most bonkers and brazen buildings,” says Michael Green, the world’s of them all. From small acorns grow big ideas.
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UAE EXPO’S UNIVERSITY CHALLENGE Expo 2020 Dubai is empowering the UAE’s brightest young minds to find creative solutions to global problems
WORDS: Craig Durie
Hundreds of university
students across the UAE are bringing to life Expo DUBAI 55.2708° E 55.2708° 25.2048° N N 25.2048° 2020 Dubai’s ethos of ‘Connecting Minds, Creating the Future’ as they work together to develop innovative ideas that improve lives while preserving the environment. The challenge is part of Expo 2020’s US$100 million innovation and partnership programme, Expo Live, which works to fund, accelerate and promote research and development that has a real social impact. The first cycle of the programme attracted applications from 280 teams comprising more than 1,000 students, and grants of up to US$6,800 each have been awarded to 19 teams. Some of these initiatives included: improving mobility and cutting “The Expo Live University kits that enable people to grow food carbon emissions; a machine that Innovation Programme at home without soil, reducing their recycles bottles while collecting any differentiates itself from other dependence on store-bought goods; water left inside, increasing the reuse competitions because it provides a drone-based system that cleans of plastic and cutting water wastage; real-life opportunities to develop up oil spills as soon as they happen, and an unmanned submarine that the ideas and potentially minimising environmental damage; locates coral reefs and evaluates showcase them to the world at an application that allows users to their health, allowing researchers to Expo 2020 Dubai,” said Yousuf share cars, taxis or bicycle plans, detect changes over time. Caires, Vice President, Expo Live, Expo Live also is organising Expo 2020 Dubai. workshops to help students improve “It’s about giving grassroots and develop their ideas and projects an opportunity to present prepare pitches. The initiative gives their work alongside the big guys students networking opportunities on the global stage. We’re giving and exposure, with the potential our brightest young minds an to demonstrate their projects at opportunity to position themselves For more on Expo 2020, listen to the Expo 2020, which is expected to be as the innovators of tomorrow. podcast on channel 1901 on ice. attended by millions. EXPO2020DUBAI.COM
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OS86.P28_Expo.indd 28 3/22/18 7:05 PM Start your trip with the Etisalat Visitor Line on UAE‘s Widest Network Enjoy great offers on dining, transportation and recreation worth up to AED 1,500
Pick your Etisalat Visitor Line SIM card at any of our stores and enjoy mobile data, minutes, heaps of discounts as well as wide WiFi coverage across the UAE.
Experience great value etisalat.ae/visitorline 30 / OPEN SKIES
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E UE I DI A OR S OPPIN INK E OO E E ION O E
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A OUS RESIDE S: A O ERSA IO S AR ER
DA IE DE OE OSE O RAD AR BO A URS O OORE O O SI I N SI I N R INS N EART F E SONI O R S E AR NESS
ONE O E O E O DID OU OW A IS RO S O E EWI O
U STOKE NEWINGTON, LONDON WORDS: I A ES:
Situated in the north-east London borough of Hackney, Stoke Newington, like other Hackney neighbourhoods such as Dalston, Hoxton and Shoreditch, has undergone a process of gentrifi cation N N in recent years. But whereas its neighbours are associated with
S O E EWI O S O E the much-derided hipster, Stoke Newington has a village feel that appeals to families. It’s still Hackney – urban, diverse, rough around the edges, the sort of place you might run into an eccentric musician, painter or writer – but among middle class Londoners an N16 postcode is highly prized, and for good reason. Stoke Newington is famed for the preponderance of independent cafés, pubs, restaurants and shops, especially those that line Stoke Newington Church Street and the green expanse of Clissold Park, as a result, the sense of community is palpable.
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START THE GOOD EGG The Good Egg prides itself on its use of local ingredients, and serves shawarma and sandwiches for lunch and a menu of sharing plates for dinner from Tuesday to Sunday. But the first meal of the day is what it does best. The menu is firmly rooted in the Middle East, with each morning bringing a fresh batch of bread baked in the clay oven to prepare your stomach for mouth-watering dishes such as hogget merguez, crispy halloumi, shakshuka and brisket hash. For those with a sweet tooth, there are freshly baked cakes and pastries. You can’t reserve a table and it’s first come, first served, so make sure you move quickly on the weekend.
93 STOKE NEWINGTON CHURCH STREET | +44 (0) 20 7682 2120 | THEGOODEGG.CO
A 12-MINUTE WALK
2. CLISSOLD PARK If it’s sunny in London, the residents of Stoke Newington will be in Clissold Park, reclining in the shade of a tree with a newspaper, or sitting cross-legged around a picnic blanket laden with goodies from one of the neighbourhood’s bakeries, cafés or independent shops. Opened in 1889, this vast green space, which boasts a playground, paddling pool, tennis courts, an aviary, a butterfly dome, an animal enclosure (home to deer and goats), an organic market garden and the Grade II listed Clissold House, is at the heart of this urban community.
GREEN LANES | +44 (0) 20 8356 8428 | CLISSOLDPARK.COM
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3. NOOK Browsing the carefully curated items at this popular concept store – boxwood handled kitchen knives from Spanish heritage brand Pallarès Solsana, a stoneware carafe handmade in Scotland, a copper watering can from 132-year-old Birmingham manufacturer Haws, a grid notebook from Copenhagen stationer Kartotek – is like flicking A NINE- through a copy of one of the MINUTE independent lifestyle magazines WALK such as Open House, Apartmento, and Cereal, that you also find here and there amidst the homewares. You will struggle to make it out without making a purchase.
153 STOKE NEWINGTON CHURCH STREET | +44 (0) 20 7249 9436 | NOOKSHOP.CO.UK
A TEN- MINUTE WALK 4. SUTTON & SONS Family-run Sutton & Sons has been in the fish business since opening its fishmongers at 111 Stoke Newington High Street in 1998, and now husband-and-wife team Danny and Hana Sutton have fish and chip restaurants in Hackney Central, Islington and Stoke Newington. The flagship restaurant on Stoke Newington High Street, with its menu featuring Maldon oysters and Prosecco, Cromer crab on toast and lobster roll alongside more traditional chip shop staples such as battered cod, steak and kidney pie and jumbo sausage, is no run- of-the-mill ‘chippy, but Sutton & Sons still feels like a traditional British chip shop.
90 STOKE NEWINGTON HIGH STREET | +44 (0) 20 7249 6444 | SUTTONANDSONS.CO.UK
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A SEVEN- MINUTE WALK 5. PREP If you’re passionate about cooking or if your kitchen is designed to be looked at rather than cooked in, you will revel in perusing the selection of stylish kitchen items in this independent cook shop. The focus is on high-quality products from brands with a distinguished heritage: a filleting knife with a blade of German stainless steel from Robert Welch, kettles from Hario and Kinto, cutlery from Canvas Home and Charingworth and pepper mills from German Zassenhaus. One this is for sure, Prep is a far cry from the kitchen section of your everyday department store.
106 STOKE NEWINGTON CHURCH STREET | +44 (0) 20 3632 2339 | PREPCOOKSHOP.COM
A SEVEN- MINUTE WALK 6. WOLF There are a lot of fine places to eat in Stoke Newington, but it would be hard to find one better than Antony Difrancesco’s cosy, stylish Italian: Wolf. Chef Karla Knowles’ seasonal menu is made up of unfussy but refined Italian dishes composed of gorgeous ingredients and beautifully presented. The cocktail and wine lists are equally impressive. Open for dinner seven nights a week, Wolf also serves a brunch, with the option of bottomless cocktails on Saturday and Sunday.
110 STOKE NEWINGTON HIGH STREET |
END +44 (0) 20 7254 4141 | WOLF-RESTAURANT.CO.UK
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THE YEAR OF ZAYED
UAE EDUCATING A NATION Throughout 2018, Open Skies will honour the 100th anniversary of the birth of Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan. This month: how Sheikh Zayed’s reforms changed the future of the UAE
What is the Year of Zayed? To celebrate the centennial anniversary of the birth of the UAE’s founding father, 2018 will see 12 months of events to honour the life and legacy of Sheikh Zayed.
that would develop and spread throughout the UAE. Education was one of his top priorities and his work would rapidly boost the literacy rates in the region. This month, on April 25, the Abu Dhabi International Book Fair has honoured Sheikh Zayed’s commitment to education in the region by naming him ‘Personality of the Year’. As a result, part of the cultural arm of the fair will be based on his life and work. It’s a fitting tribute to the man who once said:
During his childhood there the UK and France. He would recall “The education of our people is a Sheikh Zayed were no official schools how impressed he had been with bin Sultan Al great wealth. We are proud of our Nahyan and in the Trucial States, so the schools there, and that visit British Prime educated nation because through 54.3773° E 54.3773° 24.4539° N N 24.4539° ABU DHABIABU Sheikh Zayed received would stand him in good stead in Minister, knowledge and science we will open Edward only basic instructions later life. Heath, in the horizons of a glorious future.” in the principles of Islam from the Sure enough, following his 1969 local mu’allim, or teacher of the accession to power as Ruler of Abu SOURCES: SHEIKH ZAYED: LIFE AND TIMES Holy Quran. However, a thirst for Dhabi in 1966, Sheikh Zayed began (NOOR ALI RASHID); FATHER OF OUR NATION; THE UAE FIFTY YEARS IN PICTURES (RAMESH knowledge soon took him into the work on a programme of reforms SHUKLA) | BOOKSARABIA.COM desert, where he would spend his formative years learning about the VISIT environment, the ways of the local tribes and their struggle for survival WORDS TO CELEBRATE SHEIKH ZAYED In celebration of the Year of Zayed, Zayed Central Library has launched Messages of Benevolence, a in the harsh surroundings. charity initiative supporting nations in need. Visitors simply purchase a US$6 voucher and write a short His first trip abroad in 1953 message to the UAE and its leadership, with a winning entry receiving a prize in the May 15 draw. UNTIL MAY 15 | ZAYED CENTRAL LIBRARY, AL AIN took Sheikh Zayed, along with his brother and Ruler of Abu Dhabi, Check the side of your aircraft today; it could well feature Emirates’ bespoke livery in tribute to Sheikh Zayed. A total of 10 Emirates aircraft carry the decal – five Airbus A380s and five Boeing 777-300ERs. Shakhbut bin Sultan Al Nahyan, to
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OS86.P38_Zayed.indd 36 3/22/18 7:42 PM LUXEMBOURG • LONDON • MONACO • LIECHTENSTEIN
BAHAMAS • DUBAI • GENEVA • ZURICH
PRIVATE BANKING
WEALTH MANAGEMENT
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Open_skies_March_2018.indd 1 02/03/2018 14:52:19 LUNCH WITH
UK PROFESSOR NICK BOSTROM The founding director of the University of Oxford’s Humanity Institute and author of the New York Times bestseller Superintelligence talks AI over a large glass of ‘elixir’
WORDS: Charlie Carver IMAGES: Rebecca Matthews
While travelling to Oxford
to speak to Professor Nick Bostrom, one of the OXFORD OXFORD 1.2577° W 1.2577° 51.7520° N N 51.7520° world’s leading thinkers on the future of artificial intelligence (AI), I imagine the Future of Humanity Institute – which into a keypad and disappears this time to discuss his calendar he founded in 2005 to investigate through a pair of swing doors. and correspondence with Tanya. “big-picture questions about It is 1.35pm and Nick Bostrom, He will then work until dinner humanity and its prospects” – to be a whose meals are “not on the regular time, eat out, then return to the slick, space-age structure, humming schedule”, according to his personal office to work. This has been with the energy of the fastest assistant, Tanya, is just starting his his routine for several years. computers on Earth and providing day. Ten minutes later, Bostrom, So far, I have identified kale, a stimulating environment for the our photographer and I are wedged berries, carrots and courgettes planet’s greatest minds to plan a into a small kitchenette, where he is going into the blender. Chopping, utopian future for the human race. whipping up a batch of “elixir”, the peeling, scraping, rummaging. When I arrive, I discover vegetable smoothie he consumes “I can’t cook, so this is really the it’s a suite on the second every day in lieu of breakfast and only way I can find expression for floor of Littlegate House, lunch. We have 45 minutes. my atrophied culinary instincts, a nondescript building on “I’m a night owl. I start late such as they are,” says Bostrom, St Ebbe’s Street, an unremarkable and keep going until perhaps enthusiastically scooping protein backstreet in central Oxford. two,” says Bostrom, grabbing a powder onto the pile of assorted It might not be an architectural chopping board from a cupboard veg. In goes a splash of oat milk masterpiece, but it does house and pulling various vegetables from and then a generous glug of some great minds, and while the fridge. “I have a shower and olive oil. “Maybe we should have I wait in a drab, unmanned then I come direct to the office.” a little broccoli in here? Are you reception area, perhaps the He’s in the zone now, talking both fans of liquefied broccoli?” greatest of those minds hurries and working like an experienced Bostrom pauses in front of up the stairs, punches a code TV chef. Bostrom normally uses the full blender, takes a breath.
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Bostrom is best known for Superintelligence, the New York Times bestseller in which he imagines a future where machine brains surpass human brains and replace them at the top of Earth’s hierarchy
because the ingredients and southern Sweden a short distance the proportions are not fixed.” across the Øresund strait (the “Sometimes it’s tastier Sweden-Denmark border) from than other days,” he adds, Helsingør in eastern Denmark. His smiling and taking a sip. father was a fund manager and his I follow suit. It does not taste mother was a secretary. It was “good like chocolate milkshake. It’s sour in most respects”, but he hated school and earthy with a gritty texture. It’s and thought it was a “waste of time”. not bad. But it would take some Then, when he was 15, he visited willpower to drink it every day. the public library and withdrew “It’s good. It’s a good day today,” a book on German philosophy. declares Bostrom. “Congratulations! “Immediately the gates swung You have just extended your open,” he says. He discovered life expectancy by 10 minutes, a world of art and ideas. The which incidentally is about the thought of wasting more time in time it takes to make it. Shall school was “intolerable”, so he we move to another venue?” arranged to sit all of his exams We move to Bostrom’s office: early and moved on to university. a large glass rectangle, white “I found university very different,” blinds shutting out potential he says. “You could study at your disturbances, large windows and own pace, choose your own topics, an assortment of lamps throwing the quality of the teaching staff “Are we ready for the big a soft light over dark oak-effect was higher… Initially I studied event?” He flicks the switch. flooring and items of pine-effect mathematic logic, then I delved in “That’s a serious blender,” furniture. There’s a MacBook Pro and did various different subjects.” I shout over the industrial whir. on a standing desk (Bostrom’s Bostrom first attended Lund “It’s an Optimum ninety-four “main workspace”), an iMac on a University. Then he moved to the hundred,” says Bostrom matter-of- standard office desk, a couple of University Gothenburg, then to factly. ”It’s got three horse power. filing cabinets and a small round Umeå University – which he was I had one or two before that broke table and two chairs, where we sit. thrown out of when the head of the quickly. So I thought, I need a Nick Bostrom was born in psychology department discovered quality blender to deal with this.” Helsingborg, a coastal city in he was studying several programmes Does anyone else on his team simultaneously. He returned to concoct their own elixir? “There Gothenburg, where he obtained a was another guy who used to use OXFORD BA in Philosophy, Mathematics, a blender. He’s not here anymore. Mathematical Logic and Artificial But it looks like somebody else is Intelligence, and then moved to Emirates operates nine doing some stuff with that,” says daily flights to London. Stockholm University where he Bostrom, glancing disdainfully Choose from six daily obtained an MA in Philosophy services to London in the direction of a lesser Heathrow and three and in Physics. Finally he came blender. “I’ll get some straws.” daily services to London to the United Kingdom, where he Does it always come out the Gatwick. Starting studied physics and computational June 8, Emirates will same colour? “No, it shifts. Every operate an additional neuroscience at King’s College, before day it’s different, like the sea. The daily service to London obtaining a PhD in Philosophy from Stansted. taste also varies a lot, actually, the London School of Economics.
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GLOSSARY AI being created by 2040. “I guess Four terms vital to the it’s similar to a doctor,” he says. “Is understanding of Nick Bostrom he worried about getting cancer if and his work he’s studying cancerous cells?” SUPERINTELLIGENCE Following the advent of An artificial intelligence that human-level AI it would only surpasses even the greatest be a matter of time before the human mind. arrival of a superintelligence. CONTROL PROBLEM Bostrom is understandably The question of how to create a reluctant to commit to a specific superintelligence that will help, date, but he’s certain that when a rather than harm, us. superintelligence does arrive, it will EXISTENTIAL RISK be the end of life as we know it. Bostrom defines it as risk “It looks to me that post- “where an adverse outcome superintelligence the world would either annihilate Earth- originating intelligent life or could be transformed in a much permanently and drastically more profound way than other curtail its potential”. technological innovations have [changed it] throughout history,” he ELIXIR According to Merriam-Webster, says. We would see “technological it is “a substance held capable maturity”, i.e. AI would be able to ELIXIR Bostrom is currently working of prolonging life indefinitely”. create new technologies – machines Nick Bostrom on some ideas. “You would have For Nick Bostrom, it’s brunch. preparing creating other machines. his daily to develop a leisure culture that I suggest that to the layman this vegetable tried to encourage people to find smoothie might be a terrifying prospect, in lieu of meaning and satisfaction in things breakfast He spent a couple of years something from a dystopian sci-fi and lunch other than being a breadwinner or lecturing at Yale University in novel. So why pursue the goal of a cog in a big economic machine.” the US before settling in Oxford creating a superintelligence? There’s a knock on the and founding the Future of “Failing some cataclysmic event door. Tanya pops her head in. Humanity Institute in 2005. that destroys us prematurely, it “Five minutes,” she says. He is probably best known for will happen,” says Bostrom. “So But what if we can’t solve the penning the New York Times best- the questions is, how can one try first two problems? I ask. seller Superintelligence (2014), in and ensure it happens under as “I expect there are things which he imagines a future where favourable conditions as possible?” that could go wrong where machine brains surpass human We need to find solutions to we have existential risk, an brains and AI replaces humans the technical problem of how unrecoverable catastrophe of at the top of Earth’s hierarchy. to control a superintelligence global scope,” says Bostrom. He also explores the “control and the human problem of how Perhaps this is a problem that problem”, i.e. how to create AI to ensure a superintelligence is should be higher on the agenda that helps rather than harms us. used wisely, i.e. to bring peace when it comes to public debate? Bostrom takes a sip of his and prosperity. “Then, assuming “It would be good if sometimes elixir and gives me a thumbs up. we have great solutions to the as a civilisation we could lift our “Mmm.” This is not a man cowering first two [problems], there is gaze up and try to have some in terror at the thought of the this third problem: what do idea of where we are going or rise of the machines, despite the you do in this utopia? You have what the possibilities are if we fact Future Progress in Artificial safety, you have wealth, you continue in the same direction,” Intelligence: A Survey of Expert have cures to all diseases, you says Bostrom. “We get very Opinion, a survey he and Professor have machines that can do all focused on the issues of the day.” Vincent C Müller conducted in the work, that’s a tremendous Our time is up. 2016, concluded there was a 50 opportunity in one sense, but how “Do you want me to put it in a to-go per cent chance of a human-level do you fill the hours of the day?” container for you?” asks Bostrom.
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PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY C LU N
USA SOUTH BEACH, BABY U
IMAGE Adam Patterson
I’ve just returned from I’ll be honest with you: I think Miami Beach. Despite much of my relaxation comes via the fact that I’m pretty the food options here. I can have a MIAMI MIAMI . N N . . W . much allergic to the rest Cuban breakfast at a café on Lincoln of Florida – and really not Road Mall and a light Mexican lunch a beach person – this is one of my at Taquiza (the best tacos in town). favourite places in the world. But no trip would be complete South Beach, or SoBe as it’s without a meal at Joe’s Stone Crab. known, is a truly fabulous blend This is an extraordinary restaurant, of the best America has to and reputed to be one of the fi rst offer, with stunning Art Deco on the Beach. You can’t book. You architecture and a cool, relaxed just turn up, put your name on a list, Cuban vibe. The weather is and wait. It’s worth it, though. Once generally great and it has, without you’re ‘tabled’ you can eat your own a doubt, the best people-watching body weight in seriously delicious options in the world. food while being served by some of When I first went there, back the most impressive waiting staff in the early noughties, my base that I’ve ever encountered. was Tides Hotel. This is one of the You’ll not be surprised to hear, few moderately high-rise buildings then, that my ultimate SoBe on Ocean Drive, SoBe’s stylish experience came during a meal. It epicentre. I’d sit on the terrace happened many years ago, on just having breakfast and watch the my third day there. I was having world dance, roll and cruise by. breakfast at Tides when there was a For me, this is the only place in great commotion nearby. The noise the world where a lime green was followed by the arrival at the Lamborghini makes sense. table next to me of the boxer Mike Tyson, with an entourage of around eight. I had only just taken this in While there, I cycle around with when the lift from the penthouse MIAMI nowhere to go and loads of time to opened and out came the rapper get there. SoBe has the rare ability to Ja Rule and his pet lion, complete bring me to a curious state. with a diamond collar. Rule, as I I think it’s known as relaxed. This now call him, proceeded to sit at the is something that almost never table to the other side of me. What happens to me, which is why I followed was some quite glorious treasure this beach community so eavesdropping and, for the record, much. Of course, there are other that lion stole one of my croissants.
For more humour from om oly, check places that blend this beach/city But I made out like this was no big out Trigger appy T , showing on omedy vibe – Rio comes to mind – but thing. I was starting to feel at home T on ice. nothing beats South Beach. in SoBe.
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K THE ROAD TRP FEATURES THE ROAD TRIP • DXB FIELD MANUAL • THE SAVIOUR OF SOCCER
TAKING THE HIGHER ROAD
Could Scotland’s road trip opportunities ever rival those documented by the literary greats of the US?
Turn over for more
OS86.P45-50_Scotland.indd 45 3/22/18 8:11 PM Smile all the stay.
All our hotels are in dreamlike settings, but if we can go the extra step, rest assured that we have what it takes to surprise you, over and over again, so you’ll keep wondering what’s next?
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LUX_Advert_Emirates_Issue Jan18_Eng.indd 1 12/11/17 3:37 PM THE ROAD TRP
THE ROAD
The North Coast 500 is known as Scotland’s Route 66, but just why isn’t the classic road trip a bigger part of British culture? We faced the Beast from the East head- on to find out
WORDS: Gary Evans WORDS: Carolyn Stritch
TRIP
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OS86.P45-50_Scotland.indd 47 3/22/18 7:11 PM The snow in Glasgow the Sheffield ring road forever. covers everything so I was stuck on it in some kind of completely that when I Groundhog Day loop. 4.2518° W 4.2518° GLASGOW 55.8642° N N 55.8642° wake up and look out of “Then you drive 200 or 300km the window, for a second, farther north and it opens out, and I think that my car has been stolen. you’re touched by a certain grace For the first time ever in Scotland again, touched by some kind of holy the national weather service issues presence. What was once the closed a ‘Red Warning’. loop of your bondage becomes the I plan to drive up to the open road of your liberation.” Highlands and do a big loop Outside my hotel, I use a window around the very top of Scotland, squeegee to clear the car of snow it’s a route named the North Coast and dig out the wheels. I wear 500. Time to make a decision. ladies’ green gardening gloves (my What is a Red Warning anyway? partner Carolyn’s – all that was in One bit of the Met Office definition the car). Like the rest of the UK, I really sticks out: Risk to life is likely. haven’t properly prepared for the What would Jack Kerouac do? heavy snow and abnormally low Would John Steinbeck turn around temperatures that come in from and go home? William Least Heat- Siberia, a cold wave they call the Moon wouldn’t let a bit of snow get Beast from the East. between him and the road, would he? I set off on my first road trip as I’ve always been obsessed with a driver, slip-slide through the city this idea of the classic road trip, streets, and gradually get out of getting up and going, anywhere, heroic adventure into the unknown, Glasgow on the busiest motorway everywhere, as far as possible and be part of the British identity, too? in Scotland. Soon after, the snow back again. I like how journalist and “Because,” says Michael Smith, brings this road to a complete road-trip obsessive Richard Kreitner “everywhere is just up the road.” The standstill and traps thousands of defines what good a road book does: writer and filmmaker made the six- people in their cars overnight. Even it has “a narrative arc matching the part BBC documentary, Drivetime, if I want to, I can’t turn around. The chronological and geographical arc about Britain’s relationship road home is closed. Steinbeck of the trip it chronicles”. The above with cars and driving. “The vast would’ve liked this idea. In Travels writers wrote my favourite road distances that make such journeys with Charley: In Search of America, books. They’re all American. heroic and make them adventures he wrote: “A journey is like marriage. Route 66 runs east to west all just don’t exist here. The unknown The certain way to be wrong is to the way across the US. Steinbeck poetry of the far horizon, that think you control it.” called it “The Mother Road”. The settler’s sense of virgin territory still I head north to Inverness, the road trip – the lonely gas station, to be conquered, it belongs more start of the Highlands, the first the hamburger in the highway diner, to the New World maybe. It’s not as and last stop on the circular North the perfectly straight, perfectly flat marked for the Englishman.” Coast 500, then I drive cross- tarmac stretched out into the sunset Smith doesn’t drive. I ask country from the west coast to the – is quintessentially American. But him if he’ll ever learn and his east. Somewhere along the way I it isn’t part of British literature, of response is unprintable. For outrun the snow. But not for long. British culture. This might explain most of his documentary he The sign reads: ROAD why I’ve always loved road books, sat in the passenger seat and NORMALLY IMPASSABLE IN but only recently learnt to drive. looked miserable. “There was a WINTRY CONDITIONS. It looks The North Coast 500 earned a point making that programme,” clear enough to me. I drive on. The place on a list of the world’s best he says, “when I felt I’d been on single-track road goes steadily road trips. They call it “Scotland’s uphill. Every now and again, diamond-shaped white signs mark answer to Route 66”. So why can’t Emirates flies twice daily to Glasgow with the classic road trip – the epic, the Boeing 777-300ER. a “passing place” where the road
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widens just enough to allow two cars to pass. But I don’t see any other cars. It’s getting dark. The road keeps on rising. Hairpin turns twist left and right and always upwards. The weather holds out, but the hill becomes a mountain. Soon the walls of snow either side of the road stand 10 feet tall. The road looks like a tunnel cut through a glacier. It climbs higher and higher The Applecross Inn – wood- panelled, wood-burning stove – looks like a dream after driving all day. I eat battered haddock, chips, peas, and drink heavy Scottish ale. The man behind the bar has long red hair, a big red beard and looks like Hamish out of Braveheart. The fella next to me sits with his 11-year-old dog, which he claims is the world’s
first ever labradoodle. You get talking XXXXX to people in a place like this. They xxxxxxxx xxxxxx tell me the Bealach na Bà (Pass of xxxxx the Cattle in Scottish Gaelic) reaches over 2,000 feet, that ploughs only cleared it a few days earlier, and why it shouldn’t be attempted by novice drivers. I’ve been lucky, again. I start early the next morning. Nobody about, no cars. Then I hit the morning traffic: blocking the single-track road, a herd of highland cattle. This one cow – huge horns, trendy fringe – refuses to move. I steer left and the cow lumbers right. I go backwards and the cow saunters forwards. I get out the car out. Silence. The snowy caps of the WHITE-OUT puddings”). I drink a coffee on the Despite the to nudge it in the right direction, but mountains catch the sunlight. Craggy elements, porch in front of a sea loch. The the cow steps off the road. I get hills roll around in autumn colours. Scotland is sun makes the surface of the water never less back in the car and the cow hoofs it The sky looks bigger here and I feel than stunning twinkle like stars on a dark night. onto the road again. I finally inch by, smaller. This, I think, is what Smith “When I was younger,” Neil window down, and I swear the cow means by “a certain grace”. Ansell says, “I kept a tally of the smiles at me. I stop at the Torridon Stores & countries I had visited, but stopped I pass lochs and beaches and Café and eat a sandwich, possibly counting after 50. I realised it was a lonely whitewashed cottage with the best sandwich I’ve ever eaten, meaningless.” For his new book, a bright red roof. I pass sheep that – fried egg and Stornoway black The Last Wilderness, Ansell recently have the common decency to cross pudding (the blood sausage that’s came up here to the northwest the road quickly and efficiently. I pull so good it earned protected status Highlands, for a series of week- over, turn off the engine, and get a few years ago to stop “imposter long walks all alone. In his 20s, he
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spent five years hitchhiking. He He recently published his first says a good road trip is worth more novel, Celestial Mechanics. In than kilometres covered. “Quality describing it, Heat-Moon offers and depth of experience trumps advice for anyone who can’t see the quantity… the search for unique road for the tarmac: “So many of experiences. My advice would be to the difficulties and discomforts we not have an itinerary – be flexible, find ourselves in today are the result follow your nose or the advice of of lacking a broad comprehension locals. Try to engage as much as of what we are as creatures and possible with local people.” who we are as individuals. Too I call the Riverside bed and often we live oblivious to the breakfast to check on the roads provable facts of our existence. Of in Ullapool. Charlie doesn’t speak, those facts, none is greater than he shouts, but in a lovely singsong being aware that our brain, our Scottish accent, so you don’t mind. heart, our great toe quite literally “I’ve lived here 35 years! I’ve never came from the stars and to there seen snow like it!” He hangs up, they will return… I have found that makes a few phone calls to family doing my best to think in cosmic and friends and various traffic and terms leads to enlarged empathy.” weather organisations, then rings Who cares about a bit of engine back with a proposed route. grinding? Heat-Moon drove From this point on let’s just say 20,000km with two worn tyres and that, unless I say otherwise, it’s a knock in the water pump. Who snowing sheets. The snow lies CHARLIE’S ON THE PHONE. HE cares about a bit of weather? The thickly on the road. The snow covers snow can’t stop us now. We fly up the car. The snow is absolute. COVERS THE MOUTHPIECE WITH the coast to John o’ Groats and out I arrive at the Riverside. Charlie’s HIS HAND AND SHOUTS, “I’VE GOT A to Dunnet Head, the most northerly on the phone. He covers the point of the mainland of Great mouthpiece with his hand and FRENCHMAN GONE OFF THE ROAD! Britain. One of my favourite lines in shouts, “I’ve got a Frenchman gone HE’S PANICKING!” Kerouac’s On the Road goes: “No off the road! He’s panicking!” more land! We can’t go any further At breakfast, Charlie tells me ‘cause there ain’t no more land!” he arranged for a snowplough to ONWARDS blows huge snowdrifts across the At the end of any good road The search rescue his Frenchman. Several for adventure road. A few cars head in the opposite book, the narrator comes home guests and I stand behind Charlie requires an direction, then no cars at all. changed in some way. I always open road free and Charlie stands in front of a table from snow Finally, predictably, my car thought cars made you less full of maps. A Dutchman keeps starts to make a noise that, with curious, less of a wanderer, less asking about the road north. “Nooo!” my limited knowledge of car willing to go the wrong way. I’ve Charlies finally says. “The road to mechanics, I can only describe as changed my mind a little: cars are Drumrunie is closed!” His lovely long sounding expensive. My road trip what you make of them. vowel sounds make me picture a becomes a slog. The final few days, I drive east- yawning cat. “When a ‘slog’ is inescapable,” west across the very top of Scotland I follow Charlie’s plan and drive William Least Heat-Moon tells and back down the west coast. The south-east across the width of the me, “it still can give a sense of weather is merely Arctic instead of country, then head north along the accomplishment and enlarge apocalyptic. The scenery is never coast towards John o’ Groats, which awareness of things and people anything less than stunning. In total, means coming off the North Coast encountered.” In his classic 1982 I cover more than 1,600km, but 500 and starting the route all over book Blue Highways, Heat-Moon I’m still forced to miss out a small again in the opposite direction. loses his job, breaks up with his wife, section of the North Coast 500: The driving gets sketchy. Blizzards and sets off on a three-month road beaten by the snow, but not beaten bring visibility right down. The wind trip across America. by the road.”
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K Let’s celebrate the original Margarita TH a margarita made THIS YEAR, MARKS THE 70 without cointreau is ANNIVERSARY OF THIS ICONIC DRINK. not worth its salt LET’S CELEBRATE THE ORIGINAL Margaret Sames MARGARITA! Cointreau has been inseparable from margarita since its creation in 1948 Acapulco, Mexico. Margaret THE ORIGINAL MARGARITA “Margarita” Sames, a wealthy American socialite known for hosting notoriously lavish parties with extravagant twists, created a new cocktail for one of her soirées by mixing two of her favourite spirits: tequila and Cointreau, a liqueur crafted using sweet 3 cl Cointreau 1. Combine all ingredients and bitter orange peel essence. 5 cl Bianco Tequila in a shaker and add ice 2 cl Fresh Lime Juice 2. Shake and strain into a salt-rimmed rocks glass An immediate success, the drink came to be known as 3. Garnish with a lime wheel a “margarita” and has gone on to become a staple in bars and homes alike. Kings College_OPEN SKIES copy.pdf 1 12/20/17 5:39 PM
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FIELD MANUAL
AN INFORMATIVE AND EASY-TO-READ GUIDE TO PLANNING YOUR OWN ADVENTURE IN DUBAI
OS86.P57-63_DubaiGuide_VERSION3.indd 55 3/25/18 1:36 PM DXB FIELD MANUAL
When it comes to enjoying the great outdoors, Dubai has it 1 covered. So whether you’re ziplining across the city, hiking over OUTDOORS mountains or simply heading to the beach, time in Dubai is anything but dull.
RELAX ADVICE THREE BEACH FREE BEACHES IN DUBAI RESORTS How to decide on the right one for you TO TRY
YOU LIKE YOU WANT NO TO BE NO STAY HOME TO CHILL? ACTIVE?
DRIFT Go for: its rep YES YES NO for being Dubai's coolest spot. DRIFTBEACHDUBAI.COM
YOU YOU WANT WANT THE YOU WANT NO A DUBAI NO NEWEST TO TAN AND ICON? SPOT? SHOP?
SUMMERSALT Go for: the great location with an iconic Burj Al Arab YES YES YES backdrop. JUMEIRAH.COM
Learn more about Dubai on ice. The Emirates World podcasts start on channel 1900 and cover EL CHIRINGUITO the city’s newest Go for: the attractions, events, dining chilled-out Ibiza and more. soundtrack. LA MER KITE BEACH JBR BEACH THEPALMDUBAI.RIXOS.COM nol nol GOLD Be sure to buy a NoL card from any TOP Metro station in the city. Top it up as you go and it will get you on the bus, TIP SILVER tram, Metro and water buses.
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ORIGINALS SANDS OF TIME You're in the desert, so make the most of it with three classic options
VISITDUBAI.COM
DUNE OVERNIGHT SURFING DESERT SAFARI
A SCALE GOING EXTREME Dubai is well stocked when it comes to white-knuckle activities. But which one is for you?
TANDEM PARACHUTE JUMP OVER PALM JUMEIRAH YOU'RE SKYDIVEDUBAI.AE CRAZY, MAN! HOPE SCUBA DIVE WITH THE THEY'VE DUNE BEEN FED SHARKS IN DUBAI AQUARIUM BASHING THEDUBAIAQUARIUM.COM
IT'S ZIPLINE ACROSS DUBAI SCREAM TIME MARINA AT 80KM PER HOUR XDUBAI.COM
PARAMOTOR FLIGHT OVER PALM DON'T LOOK JUMEIRAH AND DUBAI MARINA DOWN SKYHUBPARAMOTORS.AE
BE A BEACH SHOW-OFF FLYBOARD AT JBR BEACH HYDRO-WATERSPORTS.COM
SKATERS' A park made street elements. for skaters by Covering 3,100 DELIGHT skaters, XDubai square metres, INSIDER’S TIP A radical Skatepark, just the pro bowl, If you want to go further afield, head to the zipline at Jebel Jais and hire a option in off Kite Beach, which is 3.2 sturdy 4x4. Just outside the city of Ras Al Khaimah en route to the mountaintop Dubai has 11 bowled metres deep via Wadi Bih, you’ll see a track signposted Challenging Adventure. Take the corners, three with a 2.1-metre turning. Drive off-road, past the adventure site, and off towards Wadi Sal. flat banks, two shallow end, is Strictly for off-roaders, it is remote and challenging, but you’ll be rewarded bowls and a the undoubted with wonderful mountain views and a sense of complete isolation. whole load of highlight.
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OS86.P57-63_DubaiGuide_VERSION3.indd 57 3/25/18 1:36 PM DXB FIELD MANUAL Ever changing, it’s hard to keep up with new Dubai and its latest NE hotspots. From Design District to Downtown, Dubai Canal to Motiongate Dubai, here are just a few of our ‘new favourites’, which DUBAI are a great place to start.
INSTA TIPS DUBAI CANAL HOW TO PHOTOGRAPH BURJ KHALIFA Skip the roads to see the city At storeys hi h, the world s tallest buildin isn t easy to shoot. Dubai-based photo rapher Bahr Al-Alum Karim offers some advice DUBAI WATER CANAL STATION
S SHOT 1 SHOT 2 T B T 00 L To get the For a dynamic building in its shot, play D D entirety, shoot around with D from the bridge composition that connects while shooting Dubai Mall to from the the Address ground up. Downtown A wide-angle Dubai. lens will help.
INSIDER’S TIP RTA.AE ESCAPISM ESSENTIAL Three rides to try at Motion ate Dubai THE DUBAI FRAME The best way to et a total view of the city Dubai's newest landmark is 150 metres tall and 93 metres OLD DUBAI wide. Walk across its 100-square- NEW DUBAI K P metre bridge at the top, including the 25-square-metre MOTIO ATEDUBAI.COM glass walkway – if you dare.
N E THE E IN DUBAI O
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HIGH TEA
AN ICONIC Afternoon tea at EQUATION Skyview Bar on the The tastiest way to 27th floor experience Burj Al Arab SANDWICHES A POT OF TEA CAKES
CLASSIC
INSIDER’S TIP Jump on an abra at the Textile Souk in Bur Dubai and sail past After visiting the moored dhows until you reach the Grand the Spice Souk station Mosque, most tourists stop halfway along the Textile Souk in Bur Dubai. Don’t. Continue all the way to the end, then turn right. Immediately on your left will be two narrow alleyways. One is Hindi Lane, which sells everything RELAX from bindis and HISTORIC gold-embossed holy images to GO TO BASTAKIYA DRINK THIS sacred ash and Grab masala chai from the pakora stands near Historic Dubai is well worth your time sandalwood. It's the Textile Souk, or the Spice Souks in Deira one of Dubai’s Also known as Be sure to head to genuinely Al Fahidi Historical Al Fahidi Fort; not only Cardamom unique Neighbourhood, it’s is it the home of Dubai locations. famed for its winding Museum, but it’s also alleyways, wind towers the oldest building in the and vision of old Dubai. city, dating back to 1787.
TO BASTAKIYA
Ginger Masala Chai Sugar AL GHUBAIBA STATION / 24
GREEN Red Line Metro to BurJuman (stop by the mall) then get Milk LINE the Green Line.
Bur Dubai and Deira should be high on your to-do list while you're visiting, and their bustling activity is fascinating to watch. They also offer a representation of 3 Dubai that’s rarely seen by the rest of the world. OLD
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From celebrity chefs to hole-in-the-wall gems, Dubai’s culinary 4 landscape has blossomed over the past few years, with every DINING possible cuisine catered to. The luxurious, the famous, the pristine, the romantic, the cheap, the cheerful. It’s all here.
CLASSICS ESSENTIAL A LIST A G OSSARY rder these MORIMOTO DUBAI THREE TO TRY ew spots around the city for a real oin the city s in the know food set for worth your time taste of the Dubai s newest hotspot iddle ast BB SOCIA DINING A great DIFC venue, with cool staff and a fun menu. Go for the soft shell crab bao buns alone. TH S SBB
FIG.A Manakish CABIN A Levantine A restaurant, art fl atbread served studio and shop in with various Barsha, with an art fi llings. wall featuring Hirst and Warhol. AB D BA
EYOTE DUBAI Spread over two fl oors at the Renaissance Downtown Mexican food is Hotel, Chef Masaharu Morimoto – the star of Iron Chef enjoying a fi ne America – has gone big with his fi rst Dubai restaurant, dining revival right FIG.B with a stunning menu that comes via deliveries direct now, and this is Koshary from Tokyo’s famed Tsukiji and Fukuoka fi sh markets. Dubai’s top spot. An Egyptian A SSA H T S A TT pasta, rice T STA A T and lentil dish topped with AT A GLANCE fried onions. CHOOSE YOUR CE EBRITY CHE
FIG.C Machboos DA ID MYERS AT GORDON RAMSAY AT SEAN CONNO Y AT DUBAI O ERA This dish is B EU B ANC BREAD STREET KITCHEN made with rice You’ll love: that it’s one of the best You’ll love: the fact Mr Ramsay You’ll love: the stunning location at and potato and new restaurants in the city. often shows up to walk the fl oor. the top of Dubai Opera. can include Go for: the fantastic French menu Go for: the stylish décor and the Go for: the oyster selection – chicken or and speciality penicillin cocktail. awesome Sunday roast. arguably the best in the city. lamb. B B A D BA AT A T STH A D BA A
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TOP TIP DUBAI MA How to combine shoppin with major si htseein
alk DUBAI BURJ O ERA KHA I A
Buy a ticket DUBAI Take a ESSENTIAL MA picture HO TO DRESS IKE ROYA TY To take something authentically regal home from Dubai, visit Try the brand DUBAI National Tailors next to the DUBAI new ashion OUNTAIN Spice Souk in Deira. This store AQUARIUM SHO Avenue was opened more than years ago by Sheikh Abdul ahman Al Madani, who made andouras for Dubai s ruling family. pm, . pm and every minutes from pm to pm pm to from minutes and every . pm pm,
BE A LEGEND ISUALS BE HERE NO DRAGON MART The Dubai souk sweet spot et ma or Dubai cool points at DUBAI this eclectic mall. ere are three GO D unusual items to there buy now SOUK UNE 22 INDUSTRIA DIGGING EQUI MENT S IMMING OO S DEIRA DUBAI ANIMA BASED MASCOT COSTUMES CO ERED S ICE The beginning of Dubai SOUK SOUK Summer Surprises, you’ve got until August to make the most of huge sales across the region’s malls. INSIDER’S TIP The Al uo area of Dubai may lack glamour and tourist- pulling power, but it does have Alser al Avenue. A cluster of architect-designed warehouses, it is home to various galleries and music venues, as well as the city’s fi rst independent vinyl record store, The Fli Side, run by Shadi Megallaa. A great place to chill and appreciate great music.
Millions visit Dubai each year for its plethora of shopping options, but to get it right you need a plan. Here's how to combine the latest the city has to offer with some of the more traditional options. Mix and match for maximum success. SHOPPING OPEN SKIES /
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OF SOCCER
As a layer in , David ec ham hel ed transform football in America when he left Real Madrid for LA Gala y Now, as art owner of a new franchise in Miami, ust how can he hel ta e the game to the ne t level
ORDS hris oung
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OS86.P64-68_MLS.indd 63 3/22/18 7:10 PM David Beckham looks But bigger plans were afoot from nervous. The 42-year-old day one. As a sweetener to lure the Englishman has never very marketable Beckham from MIAMI 25.7617° N N 25.7617° 80.1918° W 80.1918° really been one for public Madrid to LA, the MLS inserted a speaking. He’d rather play clause in his contract that allowed football in front of 70,000 than speak him a heavily discounted expansion in front of 700, and today there’s a fee, should he ever show an interest lot on his mind. Tightly clutching the in starting his own team. While black and white scarf draped around regular expansion fees of the his neck, he steps forward and takes time stood at around US$100m, a deep intake of breath. a Beckham-led ownership group A decade has passed since would be allowed to pay just a Beckham first embarked upon quarter of that. In 2018, that official a mission to bring soccer to the MLS buy-in figure currently stands American masses, and his 2007 at US$150m. decision to join LA Galaxy from Real In 2014, seven years after signing Madrid was a game-changer for for Galaxy, MLS announced that Stateside football. Major League Beckham had exercised his option Soccer (MLS) had only come into and would attempt to build a new existence 11 years earlier, and here club. But the journey from initial was a global superstar, albeit in the idea to authorised franchise hasn’t twilight of his career, determined been easy, even for the former to preach to the unconverted. The England legend. The four-year country hadn’t seen anything like it project looked doomed at a number since the 1970s, when Pelé, George of turns – particularly regarding Best and Bobby Moore all finished the development of a new stadium stoked specific interest in MLS from their careers in the now defunct – before he and his five fellow other cities, many of which have North American Soccer League. owners (Masayoshi Son, chairman since been granted a team,” says “Hello Miami,” says Beckham, of Sprint Corp and CEO of SoftBank, David Carter, the executive director of leaning into the microphone and Miami-based Jorge and Jose Mas, the University of Southern California’s clutching the ends of his scarf even the chairman and CEO, respectively, Sports Business Institute. tighter. His knuckles turn a shade of of engineering firm Mastec, Sprint “His arrival helped establish, and white. He pauses, before nervously Corp CEO Marcelo Claure and then build, interest in the sport and offering a “hola Miami” to the city’s 70 entrepreneur Simon Fuller) were the league nationally over time and per cent Latino majority. His Spanish given the green light by MLS to that has contributed to its growth. is met with delight by the assortment become its 25th franchise and In short, he was an accelerant.” of watching journalists and members hopefully begin playing competitive After he retired, Beckham held of the public. This is Beckham’s football from the 2020 season. discussions with MLS hierarchy second coming; his return, not as a But while the road to fruition over potential locations to activate player, but as part owner of a new might have been a little bumpy, his clause and Miami emerged as MLS franchise in Miami. the league, and nation, ultimately the leading contender. Like Pelé 42 years earlier, welcomed Beckham back with bells While Forbes estimated that Beckham’s impact on football in and whistles, and given his impact Beckham made around US$255m the States was instant. Hollywood as a player, that should really come in his five and a half years at Galaxy, A-listers flocked to watch him in as no surprise. he’s not simply here for another a Galaxy shirt while media and “Beckham’s arrival in 2007 not bumper payday. Although Beckham fan interest went stratospheric. only elevated the status of MLS, has never shown any inclination to Despite return forays to Europe creating a tremendous buzz in LA enter the dugout as a manager, he during each winter break, he was and around the country, but it also has always harboured an interest the attention magnet that firmly put MLS on the map. Emirates operates a daily service to Fort Lauderdale with the Boeing 777-200LR.
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12 teams from its original 10, and the rate of additions since then has been rapid. The 2018 arrival of Los Angeles FC takes the number of combatants to 23, and more clubs are on the way. Nashville will eventually become the 24th team in MLS, while Cincinnati, Detroit and Sacramento have all submitted their own bids to join the league. Investors continue to chomp at the bit to form new franchises, because there is a feeling that the US remains a huge, untapped market for football. For instance, among televised sports in the US, football – the MLS, Premier League and Mexican Liga MX – has by far the youngest demographic. Three years ago, Manchester CLUB OWNER City launched a sister club, NYCFC, Beckham excitedly in New York for that very reason. announced his The City Football Group’s Boston- plans for Miami on Jan. 29 born chief commercial officer Tom Glick revealed why. “This is the in the business side of football, has already led talks with his biggest participation sport in the according to his former Galaxy fellow owners over the club’s United States. It’s been growing teammate and MLS record scorer, future playing philosophy, along since I was a kid,” he said. Landon Donovan. with fielding calls from former “I watched it in the ’70s and Donovan – himself part of a teammates about playing and thought it was a big deal when group looking to launch an MLS coaching opportunities in Florida. I was playing. But I’ve seen it grow. franchise in San Diego – said, “He’s “I’ve been approached by many I’ve got children of my own now, smart, understands the game, different players from many who are in their 20s, and they all has great business savvy and different teams I’ve played with play. This has been a building genuinely cares about the sport. or against, and there’s interest movement and we’re big believers; “It doesn’t surprise me that he there, but you can’t really have we think it’s underdeveloped. The [Beckham] decided to get involved in those conversations just yet,” he primary school kids, the teens and running a club. It’s something that’s explained to the Miami Herald. the millennials are following it and always interested me and likewise, But as Beckham holds talks over identifying with the sport. We’re David wants to continue to help the fine print of his new enterprise, convinced that it will continue to grow the game here in the US.” he’ll find the MLS a very different grow,” Glick added. Beckham is far from a silent proposition to the one he left. By That youthful movement could partner in the venture, too. He 2007, the league had expanded to be key to its success across the board. Scour the current 23 clubs and their squads are no longer filled with ageing household names “BECKHAM HELPED ESTABLISH, AND THEN BUILD, INTEREST IN THE from European football in search SPORT AND THE LEAGUE NATIONALLY… HE WAS AN ACCELERANT” of one last lucrative contract. That trend was arguably started by Beckham, and followed when the likes of Thierry Henry, Andrea
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Pirlo, Steven Gerrard and Frank while its television audience is runs until 2022) need to result in a Lampard all dipped their toes into growing too – unlike the NHL, significant hike, and the only way the MLS waters. While some proved MLB and the NFL, which are all that will happen is if there are more successful, others were less so experiencing alarming ratings dips. eyeballs on the product, more (type ‘How to defend like Pirlo’ into Over the course of the year, more fans in the stadium and, probably, YouTube to see what we mean). than 26 million viewers tuned in bigger names on the pitch. However, as Beckham proudly to watch the MLS – that’s a rise of Carter also believes that clubs stated in his press conference, four per cent – and all the future need to look at other streams of homegrown talent is now the order signs appear positive. There’s just income to maximise their return. of the day, and franchises and one small problem: MLS still doesn’t “Revenue sources emanating from recruiters are focussing on retaining make enough money to turn a media and sponsorship deals are established US internationals as profit, and it hasn’t since the first very important towards the league well as landing young players from ball was kicked in 1996. eventually making a profit,” he said. South America. In January, Atlanta Part of the problem is cultural “So, too, is the ability to not only United splashed out an MLS record and, commercially, the traditional programme the stadiums with US$15m to sign the 18-year-old American sports continue to other events, but also to develop Argentine midfielder Ezequiel Barco dominate the market. Perhaps as the real estate around them. This from Independiente. That’s a big a knock-on effect from this, the is increasingly vital in terms of sign of intent. revenue recouped from television annual profits and long term gains.” Veteran Argentine player Ignacio rights is currently worth around But can Beckham himself be Piatti moved to North America four US$90m a year. While that might the catalyst for greater cash years ago to join Montreal Impact, appear a high figure, it’s a relative flow? Directly, no; indirectly, yes, and believes that the MLS is an pittance in footballing terms – akin is Carter’s prediction. “Beckham’s attractive proposition for South to the income received by the Dutch impact on MLS this time around American players. “I know what Eredivisie. It’s certainly a far cry will be far less powerful from life is like in Argentina. I played a from the billions recouped by the an outward-facing perspective,” lot of football there and if you are Premier League in England. he says. “But his presence in good you are [Lionel] Messi, but if FAN POWER If MLS wants to move from the ownership will draw additional The people you are bad you are a disaster,” he of Miami are red into the black in the long term, attention to the league from those explained. “And you have to live with excited to have then the negotiations over the next who follow the business of soccer a side in the that, even inside your own house, MLS again broadcasting deal (the current one and want to invest in it.” because they [the fans] do not respect the person. “I really like this league [MLS] – and the life I have here in Canada. The league is growing fast and there are players from all over the world.” Atlanta is one of the clubs that has helped MLS’ popularity reach an all-time high. In their inaugural season last year, they boasted an average attendance of 48,200 – bigger than any NBA, NHL or MLB team in the country. As a contrast with the English Premier League, that’s more fans than current league champions Chelsea get through the turnstiles at Stamford Bridge. Total MLS attendances in 2017 smashed the eight million mark,
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BUSINESS CLASS GETS AN UPGRADE Check out the brand-new Business Class cabin on Emirates’ 777-200LR aircraft.
Turn over for more news from Emirates
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EMIRATES HAS UNVEILED a brand new pattern on the full leather cover, as well Business Class cabin and configuration as the ergonomically designed headrest on its Boeing 777-200LR aircraft, as revealed on Emirates’ newest Boeing with wider seats laid out in a 2-2-2 777 in November 2017. arrangement for the first time. The The seat has a pitch of 72 inches and airline has invested more than US$150 moves into a fully flat sleeping position. million to refurbish the 10 existing It also has touchscreen controls for the 777-200LR aircraft in its fleet. seat and inflight entertainment system, While the Business Class seats are in several personal lighting options, privacy the same design and shape of Emirates’ panels between seats, a shoe stowage latest lie-flat seats, they are now two area, footrest and a personal mini-bar. inches wider for a more comfortable Economy Class seats on board have journey. They retain the champagne- also been refreshed to the latest colour coloured finish and diamond stitch palette of soft greys and blues.
A380 service to New route to Auckland via Bali Houston returns
EMIRATES IS TO RESUME its flagship A380 service between Houston and Dubai from June 1. The move follows recent adjustments to the airline’s US services, with the launch of a new non-stop Dubai-Newark service from June 1 and the resumption of daily services to Fort Lauderdale and Orlando from March 25. Emirates will deploy its three-class A380 on the Houston route, offering a total of 516 seats, with 14 private suites in First Class, 76 flatbed seats in Business Class and 426 spacious seats in Economy Class, increasing capacity per flight by more than 160 passengers compared to the current Boeing 777-300ER. Emirates celebrated 10 years of service to Houston in December 2017 and has EMIRATES IS TO LAUNCH a new daily Class, 42 seats in Business Class and carried nearly two million passengers service from Dubai to Auckland, via 304 seats in Economy, as well as 20 since its inaugural flight in December the Indonesian island of Bali, from June tonnes of belly-hold cargo capacity. 2007. It will now join more than 40 14. The flight will be the only year- Sir Tim Clark, President of Emirates destinations on Emirates’ extensive round non-stop daily service between Airline, said: “We’re pleased to global network served by its highly Auckland and Bali. introduce additional capacity to serve popular A380 aircraft. The new service will offer global the strong demand for travel to Bali, travellers a total of three daily services to and to Auckland. We are confident New Zealand, complementing Emirates’ that our year-round service between existing non-stop daily service between Auckland and Bali will be well received Dubai and Auckland, and its current by our customers, not only in New daily A380 service between Dubai and Zealand and Indonesia, but also from Christchurch via Sydney. our global network, particularly from The airline will operate a 777-300ER markets like the UK, Europe and the on the route, offering eight seats in First Middle East.”
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Second daily service to Lisbon
EMIRATES IS TO RESUME a second daily service to Portugal’s capital, Lisbon, starting June 1. The flight will be operated by an Emirates Boeing 777-300ER in a three-class cabin configuration, with eight private suites in First Class, 42 seats in Business Class, and 310 seats in Economy. “Portugal is experiencing an upturn in its economy and strong tourism growth,” said Hubert Frach, Emirates’ Divisional Senior Vice President, Commercial Operations, West. “The second daily service between Dubai and Lisbon will therefore meet growing demand for seats on the The second flight, EK193, will depart Emirates’ current flight, EK191, route, as well as offer our customers Dubai at 14.25 and arrive in Lisbon at departs Dubai at 07.25 and arrives in Portugal, and from across Emirates’ 19.40, while the return flight, EK194, in Lisbon at 12.35. The return flight, worldwide network, more choice and will leave Lisbon at 21.15 and land EK192, departs Lisbon at 14.15 and flexibility when planning their travel.” in Dubai at 08.05 the next morning. arrives back in Dubai at 01.10.
Emirates SkyCargo awarded Cargo iQ certification EMIRATES SKYCARGO, the freight standards as the basis for its live division of Emirates, has been presented shipment planning and tracking of cargo. with its Cargo iQ certification at the “Over the last two years we have World Cargo Symposium in Dallas, Texas. worked on integrating the vision of The process saw Emirates SkyCargo’s Cargo iQ into our processes and our internal processes audited, including ‘Delivered as Promised’ commitment the measures taken by the carrier to to our customers,” said Nabil Sultan, minimise or eliminate shipment errors Emirates Divisional Senior Vice and provide customers with more President, Cargo. visibility on the status of their shipments. “Getting the Cargo iQ certification Emirates SkyCargo became a member and the setting up of our 24/7 Cargo of Cargo iQ in 2016 to further reinforce Operations Control Centre are the its service standards, including its first steps in a journey where we can ‘Delivered as Promised’ commitment. be more transparent and, at the same In less than two years, it has integrated time, more proactively support our Cargo iQ shipment cycle management customer promises.”
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OS86.P71-89_Briefing.indd 71 3/22/18 7:54 PM Rewarding loyalty Emirates Skywards has reached 20 million members, so here’s all you need to know about the award- winning loyalty programme and how you can boost your Skywards Miles
EMIRATES SKYWARDS MEMBERS In over 170 countries and territories across the globe 20 MILLION
2.6M 1.8M 1.7M 1.4M 1.4M
CLOCKING MILES The big numbers that go even further 35 BILLION SKYWARDS MILES Have been redeemed in the past 12 months alone.
ROUTE MASTER Skywards Miles cover the globe
Emirates Skywards has strategic partnerships with flydubai, Easyjet, Qantas, and 13 other airlines offering members access to one of the world’s largest networks of global travel destinations.
... AND RELAX USING YOUR MILES You can redeem Skywards Miles in style Here’s how some of the 35 billion Skywards Miles have been redeemed 1.8 MILLION The number of properties worldwide that Emirates Skywards members can stay at and redeem their Miles. 431,000 134,000 386,000 Cash + Miles transactions Flight reward tickets Flight upgrades
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TOP FIVE TIPS How to accumulate Skywards Miles quickly for your next upgrade CHECK YOUR FARE OPTIONS
Often, a small difference can result in more than double the Miles. A Flex Fare, for example, can mean reduced change and cancellation fees, higher baggage allowance and cheaper upgrade rewards.
USE OUR PARTNERS
Should you book a room with an Emirates Skywards hotel partner, or order a car from one of our car-rental partners around the world, you’ll be rewarded with bonus Miles for your purchase. It’s almost worth going on holiday for. LIVE THE BRAND
With our co-brand credit cards, members can convert their everyday spend into Skywards Miles that are awarded, per USD or local currency spend, along with a favourable earning when the card is used to buy a flight on Emirates.
LOOK FOR OFFERS
Be on the lookout for special offers, such as Bonus Miles, either through email, social channels and, increasingly, online shopping paths.
MONEY-CAN’T-BUY EXPERIENCES Sometimes, your Skywards Miles go even further than you think TOP TIERS Thanks to Emirates’ global sponsorships, Emirates Skywards = MORE members can often redeem Miles for money-can’t-buy experiences. You can get closer to the action than ever before at some of the biggest events around the world. To make the MILES most of this and many other great offers, become an Emirates As a Silver Emirates Skywards member you earn 25 per Skywards member today. cent more Skywards Miles when you fly, if you’re Gold you’ll enjoy 50 per cent more and Platinum members For more information visit emirates.com/Skywards will get 75 per cent more Skywards Miles.
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OS86.P71-89_Briefing.indd 73 3/22/18 7:54 PM NEWARK Emirates will offer a non-stop daily service to Newark from June 1, so enjoy our guide to this emerging US destination
FOR THE ENTIRETY of its existence, Newark has lived in the shadow of its glamorous neighbour – New York. Why stay in Newark when you can drive past Jersey City, through the Holland Tunnel and head straight into Lower Manhattan? But while many outsiders’ views of the area come largely from the New Jersey Turnpike – one of the most heavily travelled highways in the US – Newark itself is on a long road to recovery. This is a journey that is far from complete, but the curtain is slowly being lifted on a renaissance that has been decades in the making, and the reasons to be cheerful about Newark are numerous. An exciting sign of the city’s intent is perfectly demonstrated by the regeneration of the Ironbound district. Home to Newark’s large Portuguese and Spanish population, it’s adjacent to Pennsylvania Station and has emerged as a culinary destination of choice. Not only has it added much-needed colour and flair to the city, but with its European market-town vibe and proximity to Manhattan, it has become a vibrant attraction in its own right. And although Portuguese, Spanish and Brazilian dining are the district’s speciality, there is also a large selection of bars, cafés, shops and restaurants to wander around and enjoy. So, while Newark is only a 40-minute train ride from Midtown Manhattan, in terms of development and lifestyle, it’s beginning to feel even closer to its stylish cousin.
Flight EK223 will depart Dubai at 03.00 and arrive in Newark at 09.00. The return flight EK224 departs Newark at 11.50, arriving in Dubai at 08.20 the following day.
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S O UR ER O OU An Ironbound Located in Halsey Another Ironbound tapas bar and Street, this burger eatery, Mompou restaurant, Casa joint is best described is a Spanish tapas d’Paco serves up as American house and wine bar classic Galician- comfort food with that has tradition at style dishes and an Indian twist. The its core. With many specialises in old culinary brainchild dishes spiced up favourites such as of husband-and- with modern twists, polbo á feira and wife-team Kai the restaurant hosts chipirones. Try the Campbell and Tamara regular live music spinach, shrimp and Remedios, expect events and is famous snow crab cakes beef, chicken, lamb, for its homemade with honey mustard vegan and shrimp sangria. Dishes are drizzle, or the burgers infused with served on stacked marinated chicken spices. Definitely not trays, so be prepared empanadas. one to be missed. to eat well. casadepaconj.com burgerwalla.com mompoutapas.com
OURTY R NE R HOTE IN I O THE ENI ORTH O NTO N NE R O NTO N A 109-room boutique One of the newest Built in 1912 and hotel located in hotels in downtown designed by Cass northern New Jersey, Newark, like many Gilbert as the National this one is a fantastic hotels in the city the State Bank, the option for the golf Courtyard offers easy Hotel Indigo Newark fans visiting the access to Newark Downtown has a front city. Close to both Liberty International desk created from the Galloping Hill Airport and New reclaimed teller desks. Golf Course and York City. And with It has also integrated the Baltusrol Golf innovative design the original bank vault Club, it enjoys a and modern, pristine, into its restaurant lush countryside amenities, the hotel design, while its décor location that belies its provides everything and artwork reflect the proximity to New York you would expect, neighbourhood’s spirit City. It also has easy and require, from a of innovation and access to Newark Courtyard property. invention. International Airport. marriott.com ihg.com kenilworthinn.com
TEI EIR S ERY NE JERSEY THE R The queue at ERFOR IN RTS SI I OF THE Teixeira’s Bakery on ENTER S RE HE RT Ferry Street is often An iconic performing The fifth-largest considerable, but it’s arts venue, and one of cathedral in North well worth the wait. the largest of its kind America, you’ll find it Opened by Manuel in the United States, in the Lower Broadway Teixeira in 1976, it it opened in 1997 neighbourhood of sells everything from and was designed Newark. Although Portuguese corn by architect Barton construction began in bread to egg custard Myers. Home to the 1899, it wasn’t finished tarts and the artisan New Jersey Symphony until 1954. The end breads that first Orchestra, it hosts result is a cathedral made it famous. Best numerous festivals built in the French to save your visit for and national acts Gothic revival style for an empty stomach. throughout the year. the Catholic faithful. (973) 344-4902 njpac.org cathedralbasilica.org
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OS86.P71-89_Briefing.indd 75 3/22/18 7:55 PM AE SMART IDE
Be Smart! Use UAE Smart Gate at Dubai International Airport
Citizens of the countries listed on the right and UAE residents can speed through Dubai International by using UAE Smart Gate.
If you hold a machine-readable passport, an E-Gate card or Emirates ID card you can check in and out of the airport within seconds.
Just look out for signs that will direct you to the many UAE Smart Gates found on either side of the Immigration Hall at Dubai International Airport.
Using UAE Smart Gate is easy NATIONA ITIES T AT CAN USE UAE SMART ATES SMART CAN USE UAE T AT NATIONA ITIES
Have your machine-readable passport, E-Gate card or Emirates ID card ready to be scanned.
Place your passport photo page on the scanner. If you are a UAE resident, place your E-Gate card or Emirates ID card into the card slot.
OK! Go through the open gate, stand on the blue footprint guide on the floor, face the camera straight-on and stand still for your iris scan. When finished, the next set of gates will open and you can continue to baggage claim.
RE ISTERIN FOR UAE SMART ATE IS EASY To register for Smart Gate access, just spend a few moments having your details validated by an immigration officer and that’s it. Every time you fly to Dubai in future, you will be out of the airport and on your way just
minutes after you have landed. K iti ens only K overseas iti ens still re uire a visa
IF YOU’RE A UAE RESI ENT UAE SMART ATE CAN BE USE BY Remember to bring your Emirates ID card next time you’re travelling a hine readable passports fro through DXB – you’ll be able to speed through passport control in a the above ountries matter of seconds, without paying and without registering. Valid at E ate ards all Smart Gates, located in Arrivals and Departures, across all three E irates ID ards terminals at DXB.
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OS86.P71-89_Briefing.indd 76 3/22/18 7:55 PM FEATHERS-SKY_final.pdf 1 3/19/18 12:33 PM
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Mens Accessories www.feathers-fashion.com by the luxury Emirati brand @feathersfashion VISA GUIDE
Guide to US customs & immigration Whether you’re travelling to, or through, the United States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs form will help to ensure that your journey is as hassle-free as possible.
All passengers arriving into the US need to Customs Declaration Form complete a Customs Declaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be completed by one member only. The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.
ELECTRONIC SYSTEM FOR TRAVEL AUTHORISATION (ESTA) If you are an international traveller wishing to enter the United States under the Visa Waiver Program, you must apply for electronic authorisation up to 72 hours prior to your departure.
ESTA FACTS: Children and infants require an individual ESTA. The online ESTA system will inform you whether your application has been authorised, denied or if authorisation is pending. A successful ESTA application is valid for two years. However, this may be revoked or will expire along with your passport.
APPLY ONLINE AT WWW.CBP.GOV/ESTA
NATIONALITIES ELIGIBLE FOR THE VISA WAIVER*: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxemburg, Malta, Monaco, The Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom**
* Subject to change ** Only British Citizens qualify under the Visa Waiver Program.
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*UK citizens only (UK overseas citizens still require
UAE SMART GUIDE
Comfort in the air To help you arrive at your destination feeling relaxed and refreshed, Emirates has developed this collection of helpful travel tips. Regardless of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you enjoy your journey and time on board with Emirates today.
BEFORE YOUR JOURNEY Smart Traveller Consult your doctor before travelling if you have any medical concerns about travelling, or if you suffer from a DRINK PLENTY OF WATER respiratory or cardiovascular condition. Rehydrate with water or juices. Drink tea and Plan for the destination – will you coffee in moderation. need any vaccinations or special medications? Get a good night’s rest before the flight. TRAVEL LIGHTLY Eat lightly and sensibly. Carry only the essential items that you will need during your flight. AT THE AIRPORT Allow yourself plenty of time for WEAR GLASSES comfortable check-in. Cabin air is drier than normal, so swap contact Avoid carrying heavy bags through the lenses for glasses. airport and onto the flight as this can place the body under stress. Once through to departures, try and USE SKIN MOISTURISER relax as much as possible. Apply a good-quality moisturiser to ensure your skin doesn’t dry out.
DURING THE FLIGHT KEEP MOVING Chewing and swallowing will help Exercise your lower legs and calf muscles. This equalise your ear pressure during ascent encourages blood flow. and descent. Babies and young passengers may suffer more acutely with popping ears, therefore MAKE YOURSELF COMFORTABLE consider providing a dummy. Loosen clothing, remove jacket and avoid anything Get as comfortable as possible when pressing against your body. resting and turn frequently. Avoid sleeping for long periods in the same position.
SHARPS BOXES Sharps boxes are available on board all Emirates WHEN YOU ARRIVE flights for safe disposal of medical equipment. Try some light exercise, or read if you Ask a member of your cabin crew for more can’t sleep after arrival. information.
Quarantine Rules to follow on arrival
AUSTRALIA JAPAN Australia has strict biosecurity laws, so when you arrive you’ll Japan has strict rules around exposure to livestock and need to declare certain food, plant or animal items on your bringing in livestock items. Incoming Passenger Card. You will need to go to the Animal Quarantine Counter if you You also need to declare equipment or shoes used in rivers have recently been to a livestock farm; are bringing livestock and lakes or with soil attached. All aircraft food must be left products into Japan; or if your visit to Japan will involve contact on board. Please take care when completing your Incoming with livestock. If you’re bringing meat and livestock products Passenger Card – it's a legal document and false declarations into Japan without an import certificate, head to the counter in may result in a penalty. baggage claim to speak with the animal quarantine officer.
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OS86.P71-89_Briefing.indd 80 3/22/18 7:55 PM Celebrate the Year of Zayed with a collection of inspirational quotes from
Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan
A man who fought for unity, preached equality and transformed the UAE
available in all major bookstores and at booksarabia.com
/motivatebooks /motivate_books /motivatebooks
FOON_2e OpenSkies FP.indd 1 3/22/18 4:53 PM NEW ROUTES Newar non sto aily service starts une London Stansted aily service starts une Istanbul Sabiha G en service resu es une Auc land Bali aily service starts une Santiago: fi ve times weekly service via São Paulo starts uly
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OS86.P71-89_Briefing.indd 82 3/22/18 7:55 PM TRAVEL TO A ITIONAL ESTINATIONS WITH OUR CO ESHARE PARTNERS it co es are artners in countries ( airlines an an air/rail co es are arran e ent it rance s SN / ir E irates as even ore li t o tions e ectively e an in its net or y over estinations isit e irates co or ull etails on our travel artners or ull etails on our travel isit e irates co
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OS86.P71-89_Briefing.indd 83 3/22/18 7:55 PM *UK citizens only (UK overseas citizens still require
R UTE MA *Sus en e
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OS86.P71-89_Briefing.indd 84 3/22/18 7:55 PM INTERNATIONALLY ACCREDITED HEALTHCARE SERVICES AT YOUR DOORSTEP
MEDICLINIC MIDDLE EAST OPERATES SIX HOSPITALS, OVER 20 CLINICS AND MORE THAN 700 INPATIENT BEDS ACROSS DUBAI, ABU DHABI, AL AIN AND THE WESTERN REGION.
EXPERTISE YOU CAN TRUST.
A MEDICLINIC INTERNATIONAL COMPANY www.mediclinic.ae MOH MH52817-30.9.18 *UK citizens only (UK overseas citizens still require
R UTE MA
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OS86.P71-89_Briefing.indd 86 3/22/18 7:55 PM Emirates Advocates Advertising_OpenSkies copy.pdf 1 1/14/18 9:55 AM
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OS86.P71-89_Briefing.indd 88 3/22/18 7:55 PM OS86.P71-89_Briefing.indd 89 an e U to assen ers an e U to assen ers an e HERE S WHAT CONNECTIVITY, ENTERTAINMENT ANDSERVICES ARE AVAILABLE ONBOARD EACH AIRCRAFT TYPE ive ne s S o er S a irst lass s ort * irst lassan usiness lass ** vaila le inallro s inEcono y lass an inallseats irst lass usiness This month *On oar loun e i i retirin **In seat o ile one o er roa in ata US ort aircra t ll BOEING 777F EMIRATES SKYCARGO non sto on oursector len t s u toca a le o carryin tonnes o car o acco o ate oversize consi n ents itisalso it its i e ain ec car o oor ic can any co ara ly size car o aircra t lon o erate to ay it t elo est uel urno e ostenviron entally rien ly rei ter at t e le i ilityo rivate ettravel in or ation urt er o ourcusto ise aircra tut ost co ort it ersonally aroun t e orl lyu to uestsint e e ce tional to service t e i estlevel to lyyou e E irates E ecutive Private etta es our AIRBUS A319 BOEING 777-300 Nu er o tele one c annels In seat OPEN SKIES /8 EET 3/22/18 7:55 PM
A CELEBRITY DIRECTIONS
Dwayne ‘The Rock’ Johnson’s GUIDE TO LOS ANGELES Each month the great and the good curate a travel itinerary exclusively for Open Skies. This month, a true Hollywood legend INTERVIEW: Andrew Nagy
The first thing you should do in LA? Well obviously you’ve to go and get a photo with the Hollywood Sign. OK, it’s a touristy thing to do – but if you are a tourist, be a tourist. This is the home of
34.0522° N N 34.0522° the movies, so follow that up with a visit to TLC Chinese Theatre 118.2437° W 118.2437° LOS ANGELES LOS on Hollywood Boulevard. It has so much history and has evolved throughout the years that it’s been open, but it’s still a place of legends. This is the theatre Star Wars premiered in, and you have the legendary handprints and footprints right outside its doors. Los Angeles has loads of great places to eat, for sure, but I’m going simple on this and will recommend a visit to In-N-Out Burger. If I’m training intensely and need the calories, that’s where I’ll go. The best place for an evening out is Sunset Boulevard. It’s an iconic stretch of road with so many bars, clubs and restaurants, and it’s busy seven nights a week – it’s the place to be. To recover the next day, head to Santa Monica Beach. Go and take a swim in the ocean, then head to the pier to check out the food stalls – that should help soak up the fun from the night before. LA is similar to Miami in the sense that there is no shortage of places to exercise outdoors. The most iconic is Muscle Beach in Venice, so head there if you want to fit a workout into your trip. This is where Arnold Schwarzenegger used to work out back in the day, so you’ll be in some very good company. If you’re looking for the most ‘LA’ day possible, then make it something movie-based. Go to Disneyland, take a movie studio tour, get a photo next to your favourite actor or musician’s star on the Walk of Fame then, to close it out, maybe check out an LA Lakers game in the evening. LA: done.
THE DETAILS SELFIE Hollywood Sign MUNCH In-N-Out Burger CHILL Santa Monica Beach VISIT TLC Chinese Theatre NIGHTLIFE Sunset Boulevard WATCH LA Lakers
Emirates operates a daily A380 service to Los Angeles. USA
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