Southeastern Guide Dogs Breeder Host Manual

Revised April 2019 Genetics and Reproduction Department Contact Info

*For the most up to date contact information for staff, please refer to the Contact List located on the “Breeder Host Resources” page on the SEGD website.*

In Case of Emergency

Contact about: AFTER HOURS EMERGENCIES ONLY (lost dog, hit by car, unconsciousness, poison ingestion, trauma, etc.)

Breeder Host Emergency Phone: 941-677-3920

Here are the emergency clinics we work with. Please note which of these is closest to you. As a company, we prefer to use Blue Pearl when possible.

Bradenton Veterinary Emergency 2910 Manatee Ave W Bradenton, FL 34205 941-748-0202

Brandon Blue Pearl 607 Lumsden Professional Ct Brandon, FL 33511 813-571-3303

Clearwater Blue Pearl 4525 Ulmerton Rd Clearwater, FL 33762 727-572-0132

Sarasota Veterinary Emergency 7414 South Tamiami Trail Sarasota, FL 34231 941-923-7260

Tampa Blue Pearl 3000 Busch Lake Blvd Tampa, FL 33614 813-933-8944

2 Table of Contents I. Introduction A. About Southeastern Guide Dogs B. The Journey of a Southeastern Guide Dog II. Hosting a Breeder A. About Our Program 1. Breeder Host Application Process 2. Hosting a Female vs. a Male a) Hosting a Female b) Hosting a Male 3. Breeding Cooperative 4. Breeding, Whelping, and Puppy Information 5. Puppies 6. Campus Appointments/Visits 7. Obedience 8. Puppy Raisers 9. Retirement B. Breeder Host Program Guidelines 1. Access Rights 2. Safety 3. Fenced Yards 4. Dog Parks, Dog Shows, Dog Events 5. Pools and Water a) Watercrafts 6. Children 7. Volunteering 8. Public Events and Walkathons 9. Smoking 10. Boarding III. Welcoming the Breeder Home A. Preparation 1. Shopping List for Approved and Recommended Supplies 2. Liability B. Bringing the Dog Home 1. Introducing Dogs 2. First Time in House 3. Family and Friends 4. Crating 5. Housebreaking IV. Routine Care A. Food B. Weight Management C. Body Condition Score

3 1. Body Condition System Chart D. Monthly Preventatives E. Fleas and Ticks F. Baths G. Brushing H. Ears I. Teeth J. Eyes K. Nails L. Home Veterinary Kit M. Transporting N. Body Language O. Heat Cycles P. Pregnancy/Whelping Q. Males V. Common Medical Problems A. Vet Visits B. Heat Cycles C. Eyes/Ears D. Respiratory System E. Digestive System 1. Diarrhea 2. Vomiting F. Urinary Infections G. Skin 1. Itching 2. Hot spots 3. Stings/bites 4. Abrasions/Minor Cuts 5. Aches/Pains/Limping H. Pain Relief I. Overheating J. Seizures K. Carsickness L. Ingestion of Foreign Materials VI. Emergencies A. Medical B. Weather VII. Basic Training & Problem Behaviors A. Behavior Management 1. Treats

4 2. Command, Praise, and Correction Voices 3. Praise, Praise Timing, and Praise Tolerance 4. Teaching, Practice, Application 5. Corrections 6. Leash Management and Collar Response B. Commands C. Training Issues 1. Marking 2. Destructiveness 3. Mouthing 4. Jumping 5. Pulling on Leash 6. Sniffing 7. Barking 8. Mounting VIII. Retirement

5 I. INTRODUCTION Thank you for joining Southeastern Guide Dogs’ breeder host program. We are so excited that you are a part of our team! You have joined an extraordinary group of volunteers, and we are thrilled to have you aboard!

This manual is designed to acquaint you with Southeastern Guide Dogs and the breeder host program. The following protocols have been created to ensure the health, safety, and happiness of our dogs. Please take the time to review the manual in its entirety and let us know if you have any questions.

ABOUT SOUTHEASTERN GUIDE DOGS For the most up to date information on Southeastern Guide Dogs, please visit our website, www.guidedogs.org

THE JOURNEY OF A SOUTHEASTERN GUIDE DOG All of the puppies born here at Southeastern Guide Dogs (or brought in through the acquisition of outside genetics) are destined to become assistance dogs. They start off in our Puppy Academy, getting introduced to many sights and sounds. The puppies also take part in our puppy education program which aims to prepare them for as many novel stimuli, surfaces, and objects as possible. This is to start building a foundation for the future, so that the puppy is as prepared as possible for any situation it may face. Life as an assistance dog can have many fun and exciting challenges, and we want to give our puppies the best possible chance for success.

Once they're old enough, they are placed in a puppy raiser home. Puppy raisers are responsible for the care, obedience, and socialization of the puppy until it reaches about 13-16 months of age. Puppy raisers socialize and expose the puppy as appropriate and make sure the puppy behaves appropriately on outings.

Around 13-15 months old, the puppy comes to IFT (In For Training) which means he or she returns to campus to start the formal training necessary for guide or service work. Dogs typically spend about 6 months in training before being placed in their career.

Of course, not every single one of our dogs is placed as a guide or service dog – some go on to other careers; we take into account the dogs strengths/weaknesses and traits and place them into a career that is the best fit for them. Some of the other careers they may pursue include emotional support dogs, facility therapy dogs, Gold Star family dogs, and, of course, breeder dogs.

6 II. HOSTING A BREEDER ABOUT OUR PROGRAM Southeastern Guide Dogs relies on partnerships with many individuals and organizations that support our mission of providing freedom and independence to the visually impaired. One of the ways we accomplish our mission is by breeding our own dogs – cultivating the finest traits of intelligence, temperament, trainability, and health so that our students receive truly exceptional guide and service dogs. Our breeding program has been carefully designed, and we couldn’t accomplish success without a special set of partners – our breeder hosts.

Breeder hosts, like you, are volunteers who open their homes to our dogs during their reproductive years, caring for them with attention and love. The ownership of the dogs remains with Southeastern Guide Dogs until the breeders retire. At that time, breeder hosts may choose to adopt the dog for the rest of its days.

BREEDER HOST APPLICATION PROCESS Because of the significant value we place in our dogs, and the need for healthy litters to further our program, our breeder hosts are carefully screened. Breeder hosts are selected based on the following criteria: Commitment to our mission Enthusiasm for learning about how we serve the visually impaired Ability to provide a safe, secure, and caring home Willingness and ability to comply with our protocols and practices Flexibility to accommodate a breeding dog’s schedule and program needs – includes many visits to and from campus, sometimes several per week! Ability to handle a large, reproductively active dog Proximity – must live within 75 miles of our Palmetto, Florida campus Other pets – must have only 4 total animals in the home (including potential breeder dog) and these pets must be altered (spayed/neutered) and up to date on vaccines, preventatives, and care

In order to be accessible for breeding and stud services, our dogs are placed with host families who live within a 75 mile radius from our campus. Host families must be able and willing to transport the dog to our breeding facilities when requested, and use our on-campus veterinarian for all medical procedures (barring emergencies). Keep in mind that at times, this could be several times per week.

The following is the usual progression of steps in the application process though these steps do not have to be completed in this order: Application: Every applicant must first send in a breeder host application, which can be found on our website under “Get Involved → Host a Breeder”. We check to make sure every applicant fits the criteria for breeder hosting before proceeding. Background Check: After sending in your application, we will send you a background check form to fill out. We do background checks on all our volunteers and employees. Breeder Host Orientation: The next step is attending an orientation session. This orientation session is very informative about everything that is involved in breeder hosting. It will be your next step. *If you have attended an orientation in the past, we often make adjustments and updates to our program, so each applicant must have attended an orientation session within the past year to keep current.

7 Obedience Class: All applicants must attend at least one SEGD dog obedience class. This will let us know what kind of dog handling skills you have, and what sort of dog may be best suited for you. We may ask people with less dog handling experience to attend several obedience sessions, so they can become more proficient before receiving a dog of their own. In-Home Orientation: Usually after all of these steps are completed, we will contact you to set up a home interview. This is a time when we come to your home to make sure our dogs are going to live in appropriate environments. It's also a great time to answer any other questions you may have, including where you plan to keep crate, bowls, etc. Breeder Sitter/Wait for Dog: Now all your steps are complete and you are ready for a dog! This may take some time as we match our new breeders to the best applicant that fits them. Sometimes applicants will have breeders placed with them almost immediately, and other times they will have to wait a few months. During the waiting time, we may ask you to sit one of our breeders as practice for when we have a dog ready for you.

If you have other animals in the home, they must be up to date on vaccines and routine preventatives and care. We will need proof of vaccination before placing a breeder with you, and we ask that you provide us updated records yearly. You may have up to 4 animals in the home, including the breeder. If at any time you acquire more than 4 total animals in the home during the course of the breeder’s breeding career, please notify SEGD so we can reevaluate the breeder’s home situation, which may include moving the breeder to another host home. You may not have any other intact dogs in the home (of the same or opposite gender) other than the breeder (exception is puppies being raised under SEGD program that are active on the program).

Canine Requirements Feline Requirements Vaccines: Vaccines: Rabies, 1 or 3 year Rabies 1 or 3 year DHPP 1 or 3 year Recommended: Lepto 1 year FVRCP 1 or 3 year Bordetella at least yearly FeLV 1 year Influenza 1 year

Preventatives: Preventatives: Flea and tick prevention Flea and tick prevention Heartworm prevention or monthly deworming Heartworm prevention or monthly deworming

There may be additional requirements for small and large animals, please inquire about these if you have any pets other than cats or dogs.

Our pet number rule applies mainly to dogs and cats. It may include small animals like ferrets, bunnies, and turtles as well, depending on the amount. Households with animals other than dogs and cats will be evaluated on an individual basis.

Timing is important. Most of our applicant classes are held during business hours for the SEGD campus, which are Monday-Friday 8am-4:30pm. Breeder dogs may be called to campus at any time, which may require getting them to campus before a certain timeframe. Also, they are required to use our on-campus veterinarian for all routine medical care. Our vet clinic hours are the same as our campus operating hours. Appointments must be made during this time. We don’t discourage anyone who works full-time from

8 applying at all – we have breeder hosts who work full-time and have no problems. We just want you to be aware of the time commitments and what may or may not work for you.

HOSTING A FEMALE VS. A MALE While all program expectations are universal, there are a few key differences between hosting a female breeder versus hosting a male breeder.

Hosting a Female: Female breeder dogs usually have a heat cycle every six to twelve months. During their heat cycle, the females are housed in our on-campus kennel for the duration of their cycle, usually three to four weeks. Our dogs are housed on campus every heat cycle, whether we decide to breed them or not. To receive the best quality care, our female breeders whelp each litter on campus under the watchful eye of our veterinary and kennel staff. Whelping keeps the female breeder away from her home for an average of seven to eight weeks.

Female breeders on campus for heat cycles or breeding may not be visited by their host families since their stay is usually just a few weeks. Pregnant/whelping females may be visited once they have had their puppies. For SEGD mom and puppy visitation guidelines, please see the “Breeder Host Resources” page online.

Pregnancy can only occur during the heat cycle, although there are such things as “silent heats” where the dog does not bleed and barely shows any signs of heat.

Signs of heat include: Discharge (brown/reddish), bloody discharge Swollen vulva (female parts) Licking Moodiness Vomiting

If you are hosting a female, as soon as you see discharge, contact the Genetics & Reproduction department as soon as possible and schedule a time to drop her off.

The health of our breeders is our highest priority. We do typically breed our females every heat cycle, depending on timing needs of SEGD. There is no scientific data behind skipping heats, and it is actually beneficial for the female to not skip heats between breedings. This is better for the uterus and reproductive health, as all the hormone changes during heat cycles happen whether the dog is bred or not, which “beats up” the uterus. This is why false pregnancy is so common in dogs – their body goes through hormonal changes that are preparing the dog for pregnancy, so they think they are pregnant even if they are not bred. This also gets our females done breeding at a younger age, which is better for them.

Our breeders get multiple exams and bloodwork done (before breeding, before whelping, after whelping, etc. etc.), so that we know they are completely healthy. If we have any medical concerns at all, we will skip heat cycles.

Hosting a Male:

9 Male breeders’ host families will be asked to deliver the dog to our Palmetto campus often which could be several times a month or more. We try to give as much notice as possible, but at times we may request that the male be brought to campus in as little as 12-24 hours. This is because we are scheduling breedings based on the females’ hormones which sometimes can be unpredictable. When possible, we try to keep the dogs home with you longer and on campus shorter.

We will try to notify you as soon as we have a confirmed “date” (female) for the dog – while we won’t yet have a scheduled date and time when the dog is needed on campus, it should help with planning your schedule. We will not be able to give you any details about the female dog until she is confirmed pregnant.

The males are housed in our kennels during their scheduled breeding dates which usually last about 3-10 days. Males may also be called in for breeding in order to send their samples off to other schools where puppies will be born .

Due to the shortness of their stay, males are not visited by their host families while on campus.

BREEDING COOPERATIVE Southeastern Guide Dogs is a member of a breeding cooperative called the Assistance Dogs International Breeding Cooperative, or ABC. This allows us to work with other guide and service dog schools, receiving puppies unrelated to our colony with a pedigree of working dogs. This is very beneficial for us because these schools are working towards the same temperament type that we are, and they have the same health requirements that we do.

Our breeders may be sent to another school for breeding and/or whelping which could be anywhere from 2 months to a year. Males are typically gone for about 2-4 months, and females are typically gone for about 6 months. This is a great honor for the dog as they have been chosen specially to represent Southeastern Guide Dogs for their exemplary health and temperament. We will notify you if the breeder you are hosting has upcoming plans to travel with the cooperative.

BREEDING, WHELPING, & PUPPY INFORMATION After breeding, we do not share information on sire (father) or dam (mother) of the litter until after the pregnancy confirmation. Ultrasound confirmation of the mom happens between days 25-30 of pregnancy. If she is confirmed pregnant, both parents will receive ultrasound pictures, the estimated due date, and the sire and dam of the litter.

Canine pregnancy is about 65 days. Females return to campus on day 57 to prepare for whelping (birthing). This gives them about a week to settle into their new temporary home. Both breeder hosts (male and female) will be notified of the whelp (birth) typically within 1 business day. If the whelp occurs over a weekend, you may not hear until Monday. Many of our females give birth in the middle of the night, so you will be notified during our business hours. Females remain on campus for about 7-8 weeks after whelping to raise and wean their puppies.

What about visiting the puppies? Both hosts also get to come to campus to visit the puppies, but there are guidelines. Please see the nursery visitation guidelines listed on the “Breeder Host Resources” page. (As a reminder, there is no visitation while dogs are here for heat cycles or breeding.)

10 We typically do not give information about puppy names, locations, etc. However, upon the breeder’s retirement, we can provide statistics of number of puppies and careers upon request. There may only be limited information available as many puppies may still be in the puppy program or in training, so you may check back in with the Genetics and Reproduction Department later on to see if any more recent information is available. Please anticipate waiting a couple years for complete progeny information, giving all pups a chance to find their career. All progeny inquiries should be directed to the Genetics and Reproduction Department; other departments will not be able to provide this information.

PUPPIES Our puppies are the foundation to our programs, growing up to be the eyes and independence of our students. As such, puppies are not adopted out or sold to breeder host families. If you are interested in getting involved with puppies, we are always in need of puppy raisers! Let us know if you are interested and we can put you in contact with the Puppy Raising Services Department.

CAMPUS APPOINTMENTS/VISITS Our business hours are Monday-Friday 8:00am-4:30pm. We do occasionally operate outside of these, but keep in mind that most on-campus events and appointments will be scheduled between these times. Please do your best to arrive on time for scheduled visits, appointments, drop-offs, pick-ups, etc. We plan our day accordingly, and it is difficult to accommodate delays and unexpected visitors. Of course, we understand that life happens, so please let us know (by phone or email) if something has come up, and the time frame needs to change.

Please feel free to bring your family or friends to any appointments, but please leave all other dogs at home. We do not allow dogs outside our program on our campus, and we cannot accommodate additional dogs (even program dogs) at appointments.

OBEDIENCE Southeastern offers monthly on-campus obedience classes to breeder host applicants. We do not currently offer classes for active breeder dogs though we are looking into starting routine obedience classes. For now, it is up to you to continue with the breeder’s obedience once it has been placed in your home. If you are having training issues with the breeder, you may reach out to the Genetics & Reproduction department for some advice and guidance. If you need further help, you may need to seek the help of a qualified trainer at your own expense. Please contact us if the need arises as we have recommended trainers we work with.

PUPPY RAISERS For breeder hosts: The breeder dog had a puppy raiser family for the first year of its life. This person was responsible for the early training and socialization of the dog. The puppy raiser may want to have contact with you to keep up with the dog they raised. Oftentimes, they will share puppy pictures, preferences, and stories with our breeder hosts. Contact is highly recommended, but not required. You may choose not to share your contact information. However, both parties must be interested in having contact, and we are happy to facilitate the exchange of contact information. Usually we ask that the puppy raiser wait 3 months before contacting the breeder host. This gives the host time to get to know the breeder dog. However, the breeder host may choose to contact you earlier.

11 For puppy raisers: If you are a puppy raiser, you may choose to apply to breeder host the dog you have raised if you meet the current hosting requirements. Please review these to see if you may be a good fit for our breeder host program. • A breeder host application must be turned in prior to the dog’s IFT date. If you do not turn this application in, you will not be eligible to host the dog should it become a breeder. • Some of the steps in your application process are a little different – please contact the Genetics and Reproduction Department if you have questions. • If you would like to host the dog, and you plan to continue puppy raising, you must raise the same gender as the breeder. • As a breeder host, you are no longer allowed to continue to attend puppy raiser meetings with the breeder dog. • If you have any questions about the breeder or hosting, please refer them to the Genetics and Reproduction Department. If you have questions about puppy raising or the puppy you are currently raising, please refer them to the Puppy Raising Services Department or your Area Coordinator. (Remember: Puppy Raising Services or your Area Coordinator should NOT be the point of contact for your breeder host or breeder dog questions.) • As a general rule, we do not let our breeder hosts raise puppies specifically from the breeder they are hosting.

RETIREMENT We estimate that our female breeders will work until they are approximately 5-6 years old and our males until they are approximately 6-7 years old. Please understand each dog is different and may be retired at any time for genetics, health concerns, age, etc. We will notify you when it is time to retire the breeder. There is a spay/neuter requirement upon retirement from the breeding colony. Upon retirement, you as the host will get first option to adopt with no adoption fee (as long as the dog has been placed with you for at least one year). You may choose not to adopt the breeder if you so choose, at which point, it will be offered back to the puppy raiser or go to public adoption. We make sure all our dogs are placed in loving forever homes. After you adopt the dog, if something happens and you can no longer keep the dog, SEGD reserves first right of refusal – you must surrender the dog back to SEGD.

BREEDER HOST PROGRAM GUIDELINES Since our breeders are still working dogs in our program, we do have a specific set of guidelines we ask our breeder hosts to follow to ensure the best reproductive health and care.

The following are the expectations and commitments for the breeder host program, both what you can expect from us and what your responsibilities will be.

Southeastern Guide Dogs Responsibilities: All medical expenses Monthly heartworm prevention Occasional dog boarding (when space is available) Quarterly email newsletters Ongoing training and educational opportunities as well as general support Timely and effective communication Kind, understanding, and supportive staff Exceptional experiences

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Breeder Host Responsibilities: Follow all guidelines set by SEGD Timely and effective communication. Please return calls and emails within 24 hours, and let us know if you will be out of communication Bring breeder dog to campus for all medical care which includes attendance at required veterinary care and wellness appointments Transportation to and from our campus when the dog’s breeding services are required Approximately 15-20 visits to campus per year for dog (including breeding and medical) Monthly flea/tick prevention; we use Bravecto which can be purchased at the Vet Clinic (covers 3 months) Necessary dog equipment such as leash, collar, etc. Feed and provide SEGD-approved food Approved brands: Royal Canin, Hill’s Science Diet, and Purina Pro Plan Maintain healthy weight Maintained dog’s basic obedience Commitment to keeping the dog on a leash or within a securely fenced area when outdoors Dog lives indoors as a family member and pet Understand that the dog has no access rights. See below. Adhere to visitation guidelines Notify SEGD before going on a trip with the dog (see Boarding section). Ensure compliance with regulations, licenses, etc. Recommended: liability insurance.

Financial Commitment Southeastern Guide Dogs provides all annual exams and vaccinations at no expense to the host family. Hosts must bring the dogs to our on-campus veterinarian for any medical exam or procedure except in the case of an emergency. Host families agree to assume the cost of flea/tick preventatives which are estimated at about $130 per year. Hosts also provide approved dog food, collars, leashes, and toys.

ACCESS RIGHTS Breeder dogs are not service dogs. As such, they do not qualify for public access rights under the ADA. (For more information on the Americans with Disabilities Act, please visit www.ada.gov.) Guide dogs are trained to provide mobility and independence to people with a visual impairment. Guide dogs are recognized by the ADA who gives them public access rights. Breeder hosts will not misrepresent SEGD by using or representing the breeder as a guide dog or any other type of service dog.

That being said, if you work at a dog-friendly workplace, please discuss with us if you would like to bring the breeder to work. We are happy to have you bring them to work, but they will need to be confined in an office, crate, or on a tie down so they cannot easily escape.

SAFETY This dog has an important job to do. While you are providing a loving home for the dog, it is still a program dog, and we ask you to follow our guidelines. It is your responsibility to protect the dog from any accidents or mishaps. Here are some important safety reminders:

13 Always keep the dog on a leash when outside. The dog can only be off leash outside when you are in a completely fenced (enclosed) area. Supervise the dog in your fenced yard. The dog should never be outside unsupervised, even in an enclosed area. When you are not home or not able to supervise the dog, please leave the dog in its crate. Eventually, you will get to know the dog and know which situations you can trust the dog home out of the crate. Keep a collar and ID tag on the dog at all times (except when in the crate). So the dogs cannot get loose outside, make sure all doors are shut securely especially doors to the outside, and if you have children.. If the dog could have a chance to get free from that area, please leash the dog. If you have a swimming pool, please make sure that the pool is not accessible to the dog unsupervised. Please see the “Pools and Water” section for more policies about water. If the dog goes missing, please follow the “Lost Dog Protocol” listed on the “Breeder Host Resources” page.

FENCED YARDS A fenced yard is not required, but it is strongly recommended. Remember that the dog should never be off leash unless in a completely enclosed area. A fenced yard can provide a place to exercise, play with, and relieve the dog. However, the dog should never be left alone or unsupervised in a yard. Leaving the dog unattended in a yard can lead to safety issues, such as injury, ingestion of poisonous plants or other dangerous items, insect or snake bites, heat stroke, wildlife encounters, or even theft or escape. Behavior problems can also arise such as digging, barking, fence running, or suspicion of strangers. These unsafe situations and behavioral problems can only be prevented if you are present. Please do not use an invisible fence system with the dog unless discussed with and approved by SEGD. Inspect your fence often, making sure there are no holes through which the dog could escape. Make sure the fence is sturdy enough and tall enough to contain the dog.

DOG PARKS, DOG SHOWS, DOG EVENTS Active breeders are not allowed at dog parks. Dog parks have a lot of canine traffic, and the possibility for our dogs to pick up all sorts of bacteria or parasites which could endanger not only our dogs, but also their potential unborn pups.

Active breeders should also not attend dog shows or other events where there are a lot of dogs (agility trials, etc.) as again, there is a lot of risk for our dog to pick up all sorts of pathogens. If you are unsure if a location is ok for a breeder to visit, please ask the G&R department, but generally err on the side of caution and do not bring the dog.

POOLS AND WATER As a safety precaution, please do not leave the dog unattended near any water – including pools, ponds, rivers, fountains, drainage/run-off areas, etc.

If you have a pool, be sure to teach the dog how to get out, so it will know what to do should it fall in. Some dogs love to swim while others don’t. If the dog does not want to swim, please allow them to make that choice. Be sure to monitor the dog’s swimming habits by not allowing them to jump into the pool any time the door opens. You get to decide when the dog can swim; the dog doesn’t get to swim whenever they’d like. Pick a word like BREAK or something similar to use when it is okay for the dog to go in.

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Other bodies of water have more restrictions. Bodies of water in Florida pose a lot of risk with alligators, so please do not allow dogs into water that may contain gators. Dogs may not swim in any body of water (other than a home pool) when they have been bred or are pregnant, as they can introduce contaminants into the dog’s immune system and threaten her unborn pups. If a dog is swimming in another body of water, the dog must still be on leash and not allowed to run free (you may use a long leash as long as you have the end of it). If a dog is swimming in water and cannot touch the bottom, please put a life jacket on the dog.

If the dog swims a lot, pay particular attention to the skin and ears. Water in the ears can cause ear problems and chlorine in the pool can cause skin irritation. Using a cotton ball, dry the ears and cleanse if necessary. It is best to rinse the dog after swimming in a chlorinated pool and to bathe it after a swim in any natural body of water.

Watercrafts Dogs should wear a life jacket and be on leash at all times aboard boats. A minimum of two people must be in the boat/craft with the dog including at least one adult, so that one may drive and the other can monitor the dog. Dogs may ride on/in paddleboards and kayaks, but they should wear both a life jacket and a leash. Dogs should not ride on jetskis/personal watercraft, inner tubes, etc, and should not ride in non-motorized watercraft on fast flowing water or in the ocean.

CHILDREN Dogs should never be left unattended with children under 10 for the safety of both the children and the dog, as these dogs are big and can be rambunctious. Please make sure the children behave appropriately around the dog; they should not tug on any part of the dog, get in the dog’s face, etc. They should always be gentle and allow the dog to leave if the dog wants to. It is important to monitor the dog’s interactions with children because the dog could develop issues with children, handling, or worse if the interactions are unsupervised.

VOLUNTEERING Breeders should not be brought to volunteer shifts – even if you have arranged for someone to watch the dog on campus during your shift. This includes all volunteer shifts on campus, including any volunteer shifts in the Puppy Academy. We do not want the dog distracting from anyone’s workload or volunteer shifts. We also do not want the breeders to have the opportunity to interact with each other (especially the opposite sex) or other intact dogs (puppies on program).

As many of our dogs are actively breeding or pregnant throughout the year, we do this for the safety of our dogs and their unborn pups as well. We do not want to jeopardize their health, safety, or the health and safety of the puppies. We have a lot of volunteers on campus who are breeder hosts, so allowing volunteers to bring their breeders to their shifts would be complicated which is why we ask you to leave your dog at home.

*If you will be on campus for a volunteer shift and want to coordinate an appointment with G&R department for the same time, please contact us and we will work something out.

15 PUBLIC EVENTS AND WALKATHONS Active Southeastern Guide Dogs breeders are not allowed at any Walkathons or other public events, whether they are sponsored by SEGD or not, even if they are dog friendly.. Similar to dog parks and dog shows, this is for our dogs’ health and safety. Many of our breeder dogs will be pregnant or about to come into heat, which leaves them very susceptible to pick up diseases that may affect their reproductive systems or could also cause harm to puppies developing in-utero. While we know that our dogs are fully vaccinated, healthy, and very well-behaved, we do not know if the other dogs will be vaccinated, healthy, or behaved. There will also be many puppies there from our puppy program, most of which are intact and some could even be in heat. Additionally, there are several sexually transmitted diseases in dogs that can be transmitted from saliva or other fluids, so we want to be really careful and keep our dogs’ health and safety in mind. Please attend and enjoy these events, but leave the breeder dog at home for their own safety.

SMOKING Southeastern Guide Dogs has a tobacco use policy. Staff and volunteers will not be permitted to use tobacco within 100 feet of campus or the training center in downtown Bradenton.

Staff and volunteers will also not be permitted to use tobacco while: Wearing clothing items bearing the Southeastern Guide Dogs logo Handling a program dog Representing the organization in the community Sitting in, or standing within 100 feet of, a Southeastern Guide Dogs vehicle

Active breeders are program dogs, and one may not smoke around a program dog. We are not prohibiting you from smoking in your own home, but please do not smoke in the general vicinity of the breeder for the general and reproductive health and safety of our breeders.

BOARDING If you will be going on a trip that will take you away from your home, the breeder is not allowed to travel with you unless you have gotten prior consent from SEGD. When you are going out of town or need a sitter to watch the dog for any reason, it¹s absolutely fine for you to utilize a friend, family member, puppy raiser friend, or anyone you trust to care for the breeder. We actually prefer this as it uses less resources for us to find kennel space or a breeder sitter. To help facilitate this, you can just send an email to both the G&R department and your sitter with the dates and contact information.

Please make sure the sitter follows all SEGD guidelines: The sitter does not have an intact dog of the opposite sex (especially puppy raisers). Let us know who is watching the dog. Let us know what dates they are watching the dog. Send them our contact info (including emergency number) in case anything happens. Send us their contact info if we need to get in contact with them for any reason. For females: Make sure the sitter keeps an eye out for any signs of heat and is able to transport the dog to campus should she go into heat. For males: Make sure sitter is able to transport the dog to campus should he get called in for breeding.

16 If you don’t have anyone to sit your dog, let us know and the dog will either stay on campus or with a sitter, which we will set up. Southeastern Guide Dogs is happy to provide boarding services to active program dogs when we have space and availability. Please contact the Genetics and Reproduction Department with as much notice as you can give us.

If the dog is staying on campus: Please do not leave any collars, leashes, beds, toys, treats, etc. at SEGD, we have all these things in the kennel and personal items may get lost. If the dog is on any diet other than Royal Canin Maxi Adult, please bring enough food for the duration of the dog’s stay on campus. Heartworm will be administered to all dogs on campus on the first of each month so you do not need to bring it from your own supply. Flea/tick product (Bravecto) will need to be brought if it is due. If it is due and we need to give it and you have not brought it, it will be given and you will be charged upon pickup.

III. Welcoming the Breeder Home PREPARATION Once you have completed all of the application steps, you are almost ready to be placed with a dog! As you’re preparing for the breeder, follow these steps to prepare for the dog’s arrival.

1. Be sure to read the Breeder Host Manual in its entirety. Make sure everyone in your household is aware of the guidelines and expectations. 2. Continue to attend as many obedience classes as you can to work on dog handling skills. 3. Refer to the Shopping List below to see some of the supplies you will need to purchase. You can shop at a local pet supplier, or online at: Chewy www.chewy.com Petsmart www.petsmart.com Petco www.petco.com Pet Edge www.petedge.com Amazon www.amazon.com 4. Dog proof your house and yard; anything that would be accessible to the dog should be moved, including pesticides, breakables, household cleaners, human medication, plants, chocolate, children’s toys, cat litter box, cat food, valuables, electric cords, glasses, laptops, remote controls, etc. 5. Pay special attention to poisonous plants. Sago palms are extremely toxic to dogs and abundant here in Florida.

SHOPPING LIST FOR APPROVED AND RECOMMENDED SUPPLIES • Crate: Our breeders are crate trained in their puppy raiser homes. Crates are a great option for when you cannot supervise the dog, especially at first when you two are still getting to know each other. We highly recommend this for the safety of the dog and home. It also provides a nice, cozy place for the dog when he or she wants some down time. We usually recommend purchasing the "Large" or “Extra Large” size, approximately 42” L x 28” W x 28” H. • Toys: While in their puppy raiser homes, our dogs can only play with approved toys. Our breeder hosts can supply the dog with a larger variety of dog toys as long as they are the appropriate size

17 and meant for dogs. Please see the below list for acceptable toys as well as some restrictions. Once you get to know the dog, you will learn which toys are his/her favorite. The only toys the dog should be allowed access to unsupervised are Nylabones. Here are some good ones to start out with: Nylabones – Large or XL, non-edible ones; Example 1 / Example 2 Kongs –Large or XL; Example Use with caution: • Rubber squeaky toys – supervise and watch for tearing up! We recommend not leaving the dog unsupervised with destructible toys as they can tear them up and eat them and cause major medical problems. Example 1 / Example 2 • Soft squeaky toys – supervise and watch for tearing up! We recommend not leaving the dog unsupervised with destructible toys as they can tear them up and eat them and cause major medical problems. Example 1 / Example 2 • Sterile bones or antlers – hard, sterilized bones are ok for breeders to chew on, but supervise! If they are chewing on them too much, they could possibly break teeth, so take them away. Make sure that the antler is an appropriate size (bigger is better) and if the bone or antler gets too small (choking hazard), please throw it away so that the dog does not get it stuck in his or her mouth or choke on a piece of it. Example 1 / Example 2 • Rope toys – supervise and be very careful with rope toys that the rope part does not get eaten. Example NOT ALLOWED: rawhides, pig ears, hooves, and other edibles of that nature (these can cause blockages and are often made with harmful chemicals); things not meant for dogs like plastic bottles, cans, etc. (these can harm dogs) • Collar: Please purchase a flat collar (nylon collar with plastic buckle) for the dog to wear at all times with the ID tags displayed. You may also want to purchase a head halter (gentle leader) or harness for the dog to wear while on walks to help manage pulling. Just remember that if you are walking the dog on additional training equipment, the dog should always be wearing a flat collar with ID tags as well. • Leash: A standard training and walking leash is four to six feet long and made of cotton, nylon, or leather. Feel free to purchase any material or color you would like. Please never walk the dog on a retractable leash. You may use a retractable leash or long-line leash if you are in a non-fenced area that you would like the dog to run around in, such as a field or the beach, but these should not be used for walks or moving the dog from place to place (bringing the dog from your home to SEGD campus). • Bowls: The dog will need a bowl for food and a bowl for water. Cool, clean water should be available for the dog at all times in your home. Keep the water dish in the same place so the dog knows where it is. Don’t leave water in the crate with the dog. • Food: We have chosen to work with a select group of brands as they have proven reproductive studies on the quality of their food and its ability to support a breeding dog. Between these three brands, you should be able to find a food that works well for the breeder you are hosting. The following brands are the ONLY brands of food approved (putting the breeder on a different brand of food will result in a disciplinary notice): Royal Canin Purina Pro Plan or Purina ONE Hill’s is there a more complete name ie.Science Diet or is Hill’s enough?

18 • Treats: Generally, you can use any treats you would like to buy (Milkbones, Pupperoni, etc.). Smaller treats or treats you can break up work best. Treat in moderation (think more like once a week vs. once a day) and if you are going to have a big training session, you should cut back on a meal or use part of the dog’s meal as the treats. Remember, treats contain calories, too. Again, do not provide your dogs with things like rawhides, pig ears, hooves, etc. as they can cause GI blockages. Edible bones like Greenies, Dentastix, or SmartBones are okay as an occasional treat, not for every day use. • Flea/Tick: We require the use of Bravecto for flea and tick control. Bravecto is used every 3 months for flea and tick control and can be obtained through SEGD. If you buy Bravecto through a different source, please provide proof of purchase to prove that the dog is on Bravecto. • Grooming: For bath time, we recommend a dog shampoo – there are many different kinds, and the brand you choose is up to you. Generally, oatmeal-based shampoos are best for all-purpose. You will also need brushes to keep up with the occasional coat maintenance; these dogs do shed! Undercoat rakes work well for shedding. Pin brushes work well for longer-coated dogs for every day brushing. Please do not shave the dog – yourself or at a groomer’s – as this can damage the dog’s coat and take away their protection from the elements, especially the sun. LIABILITY Southeastern Guide Dogs strongly recommends that breeder hosts include the breeder dog on their homeowner’s or renter’s insurance policy; contact your insurance agent for information on adding the dog. This is liability insurance and not replacement value on the dog. Although Southeastern Guide Dogs does carry liability insurance, it is important for your protection that you do too. Southeastern Guide Dogs owns the dog, but it is under your immediate control, and you are responsible for its behavior. You may have to comparison shop for the best policy and rates. In fact, you may discover that your own pets are not currently covered; it is a good idea to have liability insurance for your own pets as well.

BRINGING THE DOG HOME Congratulations on the new addition to your family! It is not uncommon for the dog to be a little excited for the first few days. They are happy to meet you! It’s important to be patient with the new dog. Give them plenty of opportunity to relieve themselves as they readjust from kennel life to being in a home. And, most of all – have fun!

When the dog arrives at your home, it will need affection, praise, introduction to its crate, bed, bowls, toys and other belongings, and time to adjust to its new environment. Patience, consistency, and awareness on your part are key while also showing the dog acceptable and appropriate behavior as it gets to know you and the household.

Make sure to keep everything non-dog friendly (electric cords, socks, kids’ toys, food, etc.) out of reach of the dog. This includes the floor as well as tables and counters. Your household will need to start thinking about everything that is in reach of the dog, especially things that get left out.

INTRODUCING DOGS If you have other dogs, the Genetics and Reproduction Department may help you introduce them if needed. It is recommended this introduction take place outside of your house and yard, especially if your other dog(s) are unaccustomed to meeting new dogs. Arranging introductions between your dog(s) and the new breeder dog outside of your house and yard will help prevent the resident dog(s) from feeling territorial.

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Allow your personal dog and the breeder to observe each other from a distance at first. Dogs primarily get to know each other through smell, so walk your dog behind the breeder for a short distance and allow him to smell where the breeder has been. Gradual introductions allow the dogs to meet without becoming overwhelmed.

If your dog or breeder seems uncomfortable, slow the introduction down. Use a baby gate or a crate in the house to separate the breeder safely from other pets while still allowing them to get to know one another. All household pets will adjust to the new dog eventually. If you are having trouble, please let us know.

FIRST TIME IN HOUSE At first, allow the dog to explore your entire house on leash under your watchful eye. Being on leash will give everyone better control if he or she decides to leap on another pet or a person, or decides to get into trouble. You will want to keep the dog under your supervision while he or she is adjusting. You may want to keep the dog on leash for several days to weeks while the dog adjusts to your home.

FAMILY AND FRIENDS Try not to let family and friends overwhelm the dog as it is adjusting to its new environment. If you have people over, you may want to crate the dog before their arrival to avoid any jumping or other rude greetings. Educate family and friends on acceptable behavior and what they should do if the dog jumps. If the dog jumps on you or your guests, tell them no, step away from them, and do not give them attention until all four feet are on the floor. It is a good idea to reinforce that if the dog sits, it will receive attention and praise. If the dog is having continual problems with jumping, it is a good idea to put the dog on leash when you are expecting visitors over so that the dog is under control.

CRATING For the dog’s safety and the safety of your home, please crate the dog anytime it is not being supervised, especially the first few months while the dog is adjusting to your home. For example, this should be when you are out of your house, sleeping, or even in a different room for a long period of time.

As you get to know the dog and the dog gets to know your home and rules, you may wish to gradually trust them in the home for periods of time. Be careful not to give the dog too much freedom too soon. If the dog begins to have house manner concerns, you may want to increase the level of supervision. You can always go back and supervise more, using the tools available (crate, tie-down, baby gate).

You may also wish to utilize the crate to keep the dog from begging when you are eating at the table, as well as to help keep them calm when friends come over. The crate should not be used as a punishment, merely as a safe place for the dog to be when he or she needs down time or also confinement. Crates offer a confined, welcoming space within your home for a dog to be supervised, and to nap, sleep, and retreat. Our dogs have been crate-trained in their puppy raising home, so they are used to this.

Tips for crate training: •Remove the collar when crating the dog. •Feed all meals in the crate. •Give a small treat when crating the dog. •Don’t make a big production when putting the dog in or out of the crate; be calm and quiet.

20 •Practice crating the dog for only 5-10 minutes at a time while you are still in the room or in the house. This will help the dog learn that every time it gets crated doesn’t mean you are leaving, and it will alsohelp the dog learn to settle in the crate even when there are people in the room. •You may put a bed or towel or blanket in the crate with the dog, but keep a close eye and remove immediately on any signs the dog is tearing it up. (Towels can cause GI obstructions and require surgery to remove!) •Give the dog toys in the crate. We suggest toys that are chew bones and cannot be destroyed (not soft or rope toys!). Kongs are great to stuff with peanut butter, food, canned food, etc. You can freeze them overnight to make them last longer. •If the dog barks or whines in the crate, ignore them. Do not let them out unless they are being good and quiet. You do not want to teach them that barking gets them out of the crate!

HOUSEBREAKING The breeder dog has been housebroken in its puppy raising home; however, do not be surprised if it has a few accidents the first few days adjusting back to home life from kennel life. Take the dog out to busy (potty) often and to the same spot, especially before and after meal times. Look for signs and behaviors of when you think he or she may have to potty. Give lots of praise upon a successful busy outside. If the dog has an accident, do not correct it unless you catch them in the act. Give him or her a few days to adjust back into a routine. Crating when not supervised should also help with this.

If the dog continually has accidents, you may want to consider reverting back to puppy housebreaking rules: take them out every two hours and gradually stretch that time over the course of a few weeks. Please let us know if you need assistance troubleshooting with housebreaking!

21 IV. ROUTINE CARE FOOD Remember that there are three approved brands breeders can be on: Royal Canin, Purina Pro Plan or Purina ONE, and Hill’s. We will let you know the type of food and amount of food that the dog was on while in the kennel. We expect you to maintain the dog’s weight at the ideal body condition – this could mean increasing or decreasing food amounts, and we will work with you to ensure your dog stays at their target.

SEGD provides a food measuring cup to all of our breeder hosts upon receiving a dog. Please use this cup (or one similar, like an actual measuring cup) as it is the most accurate measurement. Some measuring scoops actually contain about 1.25 cups in 1 cup and using a regular cup makes it hard to monitor how much your dog is actually eating. If you are having trouble locating a proper measuring cup or want to make sure the one you’re using is accurate, let us know and we would be happy to help you.

If you choose to transition the dog to another approved food, do so gradually to help the dog transition more smoothly. You may see some soft stools during the food switch, and this is normal since your dog’s digestive system is getting used to the new food. We recommend transitioning by ¼ cup of food at a time for 1-2 days at a time.

Example: Dog eats 1 cup Hill’s SSS, transitioning to 1 cup Royal Canin (RC) Maxi. Day 1 (or 1-2 for two-day transition): ¾ cup SSS, ¼ cup RC Maxi Day 2 (or 3-4): ½ cup SSS, ½ cup RC Maxi Day 3 (or 5-6): ¼ cup SSS, ¾ cup RC Maxi Day 4 (or 7-8): 1 cup RC Maxi

WEIGHT MANAGEMENT Southeastern Guide Dogs asks hosts to monitor and keep the breeders at a healthy weight through diet and exercise. It is very important to keep the breeder at an ideal weight; this not only keeps the dog healthy in general, but it helps with reproductive health.,A healthy weight helps with fertility in males and females, whelping (birthing), lactation, and recovery from their reproductive duties. Overweight dogs can have problems with fertility, getting pregnant, and whelping, sometimes results in c-sections.

SEGD has an ideal weight range for each dog. If you notice that the breeder is gaining weight (and should not be), you may decrease their food. If you are unsure, you can always contact the Genetics and Reproduction Department. We are happy for you to come by to weigh your dog and chat about their weight and body condition score. We appreciate proactivity, and we are here to work with you on making sure your dog is in tip top shape.

SEGD’s aim is to see breeders for a weight check about every 4-6 weeks. If your dog is consistently overweight, you may be required to come more often so we can adjust their diet as needed and monitor their progress.

We emphasize the importance of monitoring the dogs’ weights because it is so crucial to their breeding career. Working dogs are like athletes; it is important for them to be in shape, so they can perform their job effectively. If you are at all concerned about your dog’s weight, please let us know, so we can assist you with their diet and exercise regimen to make sure they are on the right track.

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BODY CONDITION SCORE The Purina body condition system provides a uniform way to describe a pet’s weight, from “emaciated” to “grossly obese.” Please see the following chart for illustration.

EMACIATED: Ribs, lumbar vertebrae, pelvic bones and all bony prominences evident from a distance. No discernable body fat. Obvious loss of muscle mass. VERY THIN: Ribs, lumbar vertebrae, and pelvic bones easily visible. No palpable fat. Some evidence of other bony prominences. Minimal loss of muscle mass. THIN: Ribs easily palpated and may be visible with no palpable fat. Tops of lumbar vertebrae visible. Pelvic bones becoming prominent. Obvious waist and abdominal tuck. UNDERWEIGHT: Ribs easily palpable, with minimal fat covering. Waist easily noted, viewed from above. Abdominal tuck evident. IDEAL: Ribs palpable without excess fat covering. Waist observed behind ribs when viewed from above. Abdomen tucked when viewed from the side. OVERWEIGHT: Ribs palpable with slight excess fat covering. Waist is discernable viewed from above but is not prominent. Abdominal tuck apparent. HEAVY: Ribs palpable with difficulty, heavy fat cover. Noticeable fat deposits over lumbar area and base of tail. Waist absent or barely visible. Abdominal tuck may be absent. OBESE: Ribs not palpable under heavy fat cover, or palpable only with significant pressure. Heavy fat deposits over lumbar area and base of tail. Waist absent. No abdominal tuck. Obvious abdominal distension may be present. GROSSLY OBESE: Massive fat deposits over thorax, spine, and base of tail. Waist and abdominal tuck absent. Fat deposits on neck and limbs. Obvious abdominal distension.

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24 MONTHLY PREVENTATIVES Remember to give the breeder their heartworm pill (provided by SEGD) on the first of every month. Flea medicine (Bravecto, bought by you) is given every three months – keep up with the scheduling to determine what months this is due. These are very important to give regularly. If you run out of heartworm pills, contact the Genetics and Reproduction Department so we can provide more to you.

. FLEAS AND TICKS Bravecto is required. This can be purchased from SEGD, or you may purchase elsewhere if you would prefer, but we will ask for receipts to prove that the dog has received Bravecto

Fleas generally gather at the base of the tail, behind ears, on the neck, back, and abdomen. Ticks usually gather in the ears, between the toes, or on the bottom of the feet. Make a habit of checking thoroughly for ticks after a trip in any wooded areas.

Flea and Tick Control: SEGD requires the use of Bravecto for flea and tick control. Bravecto is a chewable tablet used every 3 months for flea and tick control. Hosts must use Bravecto and may not use any other preventatives during the dog’s breeding career.

Removing Ticks: Ticks come in various sizes; some you can hardly see and some are quite large. With tweezers or your fingers, pinch the tick by the head as close to the dog’s skin as possible and pluck it out of the skin. You have to get as close to the dog’s skin as possible to ensure removal of the head. This does not hurt the dog. To dispose of the tick, you can kill it by dropping it into rubbing alcohol or you can squeeze it with your finger pressure in a paper towel. Make sure the tick is dead, and wash your hands. Treating Your Home and Yard: You can spray your yard for fleas and ticks. See a pesticide expert and make sure to advise them you have pets. If you experience a flea infestation, you will need to treat the environment (home and yard) as well.

BATHS Bathe the dog only when the dog is dirty and needs a bath, usually about once a month. Many times if the dog has been in the dirt or swimming, a rinse with the water hose or in the bathtub is all that is needed. If the dog has been rolling in something smelly, it’s time to get the shampoo out!

BRUSHING Brushing has many benefits such as a healthy, shiny coat. Brushing is also a strong bonding process. Brush the dog regularly and make it an enjoyable time.

EARS Hosts should check the ears once a week and clean as needed. Check the ears by looking at them. While it is necessary to check the ears once a week, it is not necessary to clean the ears unless they are dirty or foul-smelling.

To Clean the Ear: Soak a cotton ball with the solution and swab the ear with it. Do not be alarmed at small or moderate amount of ear debris when doing this the first or second time. Do not use q-tips, as you can damage the dog’s ear canal.

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If the ears continue to look dirty, smelly, or are red, please contact SEGD.

TEETH Brush the dog’s teeth about once a week by brushing with a toothbrush and canine toothpaste. Please do not use human toothpaste as this is not safe for dogs.

EYES You should check the dog’s eyes regularly. In the case of a minor clear or cloudy discharge, you may, for up to two days, rinse the eye with a sterile ophthalmic saline (contact solution). If discharge persists for more than two days or a heavy or colored discharge exists, please contact SEGD. If trauma is a suspected cause of eye discharge, call SEGD immediately. Note: Do not flush the eye with anything other than saline solution, and do not use ANY ointments in eyes without consulting SEGD.

NAILS Keep the dog’s nails trimmed. Massage the feet regularly so the dog will be conditioned to accepting it. The dog may be more accepting of this if you try it when he or she is tired and not distracted. There are dog nail clippers you can purchase, as well as nail grinders. If you have never clipped a dog’s nails before, please ask SEGD for instruction. There is a blood vessel in the nail that, if cut, will bleed profusely. This is not serious but is painful to the pup. Should this happen, you can apply corn starch or Quick Stop to stop the bleeding.

HOME VETERINARY KIT SEGD recommends you keep the following on hand in case of emergencies. Please do not use any medications without consulting with SEGD first especially if your dog will be bred, has been bred, is pregnant, or could be pregnant as there are certain medicines that could cause harm to the unborn puppies. Phone numbers: for Gen/Repro emergency - Turkey baster or large syringe (941-677-3920), emergency vet (listed on Cotton balls (for cleaning ears) first page of this manual), and pet poison Nylon leash control (888-426-4435) Towel Dog Owners Home Veterinary Handbook, by Muzzle (nylon or cage muzzle) Carlson DVM & Giffin MD Pediatric Digital Rectal Thermometer (normal Latex gloves temp. of dogs: 100.5-102.5) Gauze sponges (various sizes) Water-based sterile lubricant Roll bandages OTC antibiotic ointment (Neosporin) Material to make a splint Diphenhydramine (Benedryl) 25 mg tablets Bandaging tape (1-inch works best) or liquid – for bee stings, ant bites, possible Non-adherent sterile pads vaccine reactions Small scissors Hydrogen Peroxide 3% – for cleaning of Styptic powder (Quick Stop) minor cuts; inducing vomiting if instructed by Penlight or good flashlight veterinarian for ingestion of toxins Needle-nose pliers MalAcetic Otic (DermaPet) solution – to Forceps to remove stingers/splinters clean ears

26 Nail Clippers or emery board – to keep nails Hibiclens – for skin cleansing for raw and short sore spots, hot spots Sterile ophthalmic saline (contact solution) – Betadine – for scratches, hot spots, small for tending to mild eye irritation cuts and sore Dog toothbrush and dog toothpaste Ammens foot powder – for antibiotic powder, Pepto bismol – for vomiting/diarrhea hot spots Kaopectate – for diarrhea

TRANSPORTING Please make sure to transport the breeder dog in a safe manner. Do not allow the dog to jump around inside your car or van or roam freely inside the vehicle. The dog should ride in the wheel well of the passenger side of the front seat of the car, on the floor board in the back seat, or in the back of an enclosed vehicle. Dogs should not ride in the bed of a pickup truck. Wherever the dog ends up riding in the car, it should be secured – either in a crate or on a tie down attached to the car (it is also acceptable for them to ride in dog seatbelts We recommend Sleepypod for travel accessories as they have been crash tested). This will insure that the dog is safely secured for the duration of the car ride.

It is not recommended to allow the dog to jump in and out of the vehicle without a verbal command. The dog should stay put until you are ready for them to exit, and then you can use a command to let the dog free – “break”, “free”, “out”, etc. Be sure to have the leash on the dog prior to exiting the vehicle.

BODY LANGUAGE Signs of Stress include: Panting Is not interested in socializing Hides behind you Excess shedding Shaking Not eating Ears and/or tail close to body Dilated pupils Looking for escape route Excess licking

Keep in mind, not all of these signs mean the dog is stressed. Please be aware of your surroundings to assess the situation. For example: Heavy panting after a long brisk walk or playing is just the dog cooling him or herself. After you have assessed the situation and read the dog’s body language, you might feel it may not be the best environment or situation. At that time, calmly remove yourself and the dog.

HEAT CYCLES There are a few signs that may indicate that our female breeder is either in heat or about to go into heat. First, you may notice her frequently licking her back end. Second, you may observe that her rear is looking particularly swollen. Last, it is likely that you will notice small amounts of blood. Dogs may be in a “pre-heat” stage for several weeks to a month before going into heat, so if you notice a swollen vulva but no blood, she is likely about to go into heat.

If the breeder is in heat, you should contact the Genetics and Reproduction Department so that we may anticipate your arrival! You may either call or email during business hours. If it is after business hours, please email or call the emergency line (941-677-3920). You will need to arrange to drop the dog off at campus within 24 hours.

27 If the dog is on another diet than Royal Canin Maxi Adult, please bring about a week’s worth of food so we can transition her to the diet we feed all of our in heat dogs (Royal Canin HT42D). The breeder will be sent home on this diet, so you will need to arrange to purchase a half bag of this food at pickup. If the breeder is due for Bravecto while on campus, please send that with her as well. If you do not send a dose, the dog will be given a dose and you will pay for it upon pickup.

Traditionally, heat cycles last approximately three weeks so you can roughly estimate a 3-4 week stay for the breeder. When breeders are on campus for their heat cycle, we do not allow hosts to visit in order to minimize kennel anxiety. We know you miss the female breeder very much, but you are doing her a greater service to let her enjoy her canine companions! We promise to take great care of her!

During the third week, kennel personnel will check the dog regularly to determine when she is ready to go home. We will contact you when we have a confirmed a date of release, and you will be able to make arrangements for pick-up.

When you pick up the female after a heat cycle, we will let you know whether she was bred or not and give you a date range to come back to campus for a pregnancy confirmation ultrasound. At that time, if the female is confirmed pregnant, you will find out the name of both parents of the litter (and we will share the good news with the dad!).

PREGNANCY/WHELPING The average gestation period for dogs is approximately 65 days. Pregnancy confirmation takes place via ultrasound generally about halfway through pregnancy. Once we have been able to confirm pregnancy, we will develop a feeding schedule tailored to the breeder’s needs. At that time, we will also provide you with information and rules to follow during pregnancy as well a date to bring the female back so she can prepare for the arrival of her puppies. You will also receive information about birth announcements and visitation of mom and pups.

MALES Males also have a very important part in our breeding process! For this reason, please do not change anything about the dog’s care (adding medications, supplements, etc.) without consulting with the G&R Staff at SEGD, as these things could affect his sperm count and his fertility.

When it’s time for a male to breed, we will contact you and let you know that his services are needed on campus. We cannot give out the information of the female until she has been confirmed pregnant. Once that has happened, you will receive a pregnancy announcement. You will also receive a litter announcement once puppies are born. Male host families are allowed to visit puppies, but must follow our visitation rules.

28 V. COMMON MEDICAL PROBLEMS VET VISITS All veterinary visits will take place on Southeastern Guide Dogs campus. Please contact the Genetics and Reproduction Department if the dog needs medical attention (anytime this manual says to contact SEGD, please contact Southeastern Guide Dogs Genetics and Reproduction Department).

HEAT CYCLES Please see “Heat Cycles” under V. Routine Care.

EYES/EARS Excessive discharge, yellow or green discharge, excessive blinking, squinting, or any swelling around the eyes may indicate injury or infection and should be seen by a vet. If there is only minor, colorless, watery discharge, wash eyes by using a sterile ophthalmic saline (contact solution). Sometimes dogs, because they are so low to the ground, get an irritant that can be flushed out. If discharge persists for more than a few days, or if discharge is yellow or green, contact SEGD. If the dog is squinting, has a swollen lid or eye socket, or has an unknown injury, contact SEGD immediately.

Persistent head shaking, large amounts of wax, or a foul odor in the ear are signs of an ear infection. If you did not clean the dog’s ears each week during the first month and the ear discharge is minor to moderate, try cleaning them several times a week for up to two weeks. Be sure to use the proper cleaning solution. If the irritation persists or is extensive, call SEGD.

RESPIRATORY SYSTEM Coughing that sounds like gagging could be a sign that something is caught in the dog’s throat. Open the dog’s mouth and look inside. Offer the dog some liquid to drink and allow him to rest. If the cough is frequent and sounds like “honking,” it can indicate an irritated trachea or a respiratory infection. If coughing or gagging persists or the dog is in distress, call SEGD.

DIGESTIVE SYSTEM Diarrhea Diarrhea can have many causes including, but not limited to, parasites, viruses, bacteria, stress, diet change or dietary indiscretion (when a dog eats something strange). If the diarrhea does not persist more than a few hours, there is little cause for worry unless the dog shows other signs such as lethargy, loss of appetite or abdominal pain. However, if the diarrhea persists more than 12 hours or the dog displays any of those additional signs, call SEGD.

The first few days after the breeder dog arrives, it is not uncommon for the dog to have soft stools or diarrhea with the change of environment and the associated stress, with the change. If the dog has diarrhea and will not eat or drink in 6-8 hours, contact the breeder host emergency phone. If the dog’s temperature goes above 103 degrees, if vomiting accompanies the diarrhea for more than a few hours, or if blood appears in the stool, contact the Genetics and Reproduction Department immediately.

29 Remember, frequent switching of foods, access to human foods, new treats or not properly transitioning dogs to new diets are the most frequent causes of diarrhea. Stress is also often a cause of diarrhea. The first few days home, the breeder may have some soft or loose stools.

Vomiting Vomiting once or twice within an hour without any other sign of illness is probably not serious. Prolonged vomiting accompanied by other signs like lethargy would be time to take note and call the breeder host emergency phone. When a dog vomits, withhold food or water for 4-6 hours. If you feed too soon, the dog could vomit again. Start in 4 hour increments by giving the dog up to ¼ cup of water or an ice cube.

If the dog vomits a small amount of yellow, foamy fluid after not having eaten for several hours (usually late at night), give the dog a small snack before bedtime (taken out of another meal). This will help prevent reflux from having an empty stomach.

URINARY INFECTIONS Symptoms include: excessive urination or trying to urinate with no urine, pink or bloody urine, and/or excessive thirst. Notify SEGD if any of these symptoms occur. Urinary infections can occur because the dog is being confined too much and not given regular relief. Holding urine can lead to bacteria multiplying in the bladder and causing urinary infections. Be sure not to require a dog to hold its urine too long; keep the dog on a regular relief schedule.

SKIN Itching A dog may itch for many reasons: stress, boredom, allergies, dry skin, or parasites. Allergies can range from mild to severe. If the dog seems itchy, talk to SEGD about options for relieving the itching. Food- based allergies are uncommon in our dogs; environmental allergies do occasionally come into play however, especially at certain times of the year.

Hot spots “Hot spots,” also known as acute moist dermatitis, occur when moisture and bacteria get trapped under a dog’s fur. This results in a large, raw wound, usually on a dog’s face, neck, or tail. Hot spots are itchy, painful, and progress very rapidly. These are easily treated. Please contact SEGD if you suspect a hot spot.

Stings/Bites Swelling and facial thickness can occur rapidly with a bee or wasp sting and should be treated with Benadryl (Diphenhydramine). For an allergic reaction, it’s a good idea to give Benadryl quickly. Give 1-2 mg per pound of body weight every 6-8 hours. Over the counter, you can get Benadryl in 25 mg tablets or capsules and syrup containing 12.5 or 25 mg per teaspoon (5 ml).

If using liquid diphenhydramine (usually easier than tablets for smaller dogs), you can use the following formulas to calculate the proper dosage: Concentration: 12.5 mg/5 ml dog’s weight (in pounds) ____ / 2.5 = _____ ml Example: Dog’s weight 50 pounds / 2.5 = 20 ml Concentration: 25 mg/5 ml dog’s weight (in pounds) ____ / 5.0 = _____ ml Example: Dog’s weight 50 pounds / 5.0 = 10 ml

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With snake and spider bites, rapid swelling will occur. Snake bites can be a major emergency. Try to identify the snake or spider. Get to the nearest emergency veterinary clinic and contact the Genetics and Reproduction Department.

Abrasions/Minor Cuts Clean with hydrogen peroxide and dab with Betadine 1-2x daily for a few days. Watch carefully for infection. If the breeder has a puncture wound please contact SEGD to properly treat the wound and the possibility of infection.

Aches/Pains/Limping Unless it is a trauma injury, it is not usually an emergency. Most minor trauma twists, pulls, or sprains will get better with a little bit of time and rest. The first thing to do is to confine the dog to crate, a leash, or a tie down, and not allow it to play with other dogs or chase play toys. Running and playing can irritate the problem. Please call the Genetics and Reproduction Department if you believe the dog is in pain or is limping.

PAIN RELIEF If pain relief is needed, it should be given on SEGD’s recommendation. DO NOT USE: Tylenol, Ibuprofen (Advil, Motrin, Nuprin, or Naprosyn, Aleve) or enteric-coated aspirin such as Ecotrin as these can cause organ failure. Please do not give any pain medicine without veterinary instruction.

OVERHEATING Heat can be a problem in the southern climate. It is important to make sure the dog’s temperature is regulated. Don’t allow the dog to overheat on walks or while in the car. Signs of overheating include excessive panting, enlarged and reddened tongue, lethargy, and gasping for breath. If the dog starts to overheat, cool him down quickly by applying cool, but not cold water. Get the dog out of the sun and into a cooler place. Apply water and offer cold water. If possible, place a cool towel on the dog for a minute at a time, then replace with another cool towel.

The pads of a dog’s feet absorb heat easily. Be aware of the surfaces on which you are taking the dog. If you cannot hold your hand on the pavement for five seconds, for example, it is too hot for the dog.

To be safe, never leave a dog alone in the car.

SEIZURES Seizures are frightening, unexpected, and unpredictable. They are not an emergency unless they are in clusters one after another. During a seizure, a dog will be on, or fall to, the floor. The dog will be stiff or paddle its legs. The dog’s eyes usually will be open and glazed looking. Sometimes the mouth will clamp and sometimes it may move. Keep your hands and face away from the dog. A dog may lose control of its bladder or bowel. Do not try to move or wake up the dog. You can talk to it soothingly. Keep other dogs away. The dog may whine. Less stimulation can help shorten a seizure. Turn off or dim lights and limit noise. The best thing to do is nothing at all. A seizure usually lasts from 2-5 minutes. After it is over, the dog may look a bit dazed; it may get up and stagger a little, or shake, and shortly return to normal. Note when the dog’s last meal was. Call the Genetics and Reproduction Department immediately after you have the

31 situation under control. Please note that dogs will paddle their legs when they are sleeping. If you can wake the dog, it is not having a seizure. Seizures are not common, but they can occur.

CARSICKNESS Infrequently, a dog may experience car or motion sickness. If the dog shows symptoms (drooling, vomiting, etc.) try the following techniques Withhold water 2 hours prior to travel and withhold food 4 hours before any travel. Do NOT make a huge fuss or scold the dog if it becomes sick in the car. Begin a routine of getting the dog used to the car. Sit in the motionless car with the dog for a few minutes. Gradually increase the time the dog spends in the motionless car. Praise and encourage the dog when in the car and when it is not sick. Show the dog that the car is fun. Sit in the car with the dog while the motor is running. Gradually increase the time spent in the car with the motor running. Begin “travel” by simply backing down the driveway. Gradually increase your “travel” (up and down the driveway, around the block, etc.) Increase distance gradually. With patience and persistence, you can overcome the problem of carsickness.

INGESTION OF FOREIGN MATERIALS Avoid allowing the dog to chew on non-approved toys or on anything that you don’t know to be non-toxic. Swallowing of foreign material can be life threatening and frequently results in anesthesia and possible surgery for retrieval. Many medications that humans take routinely can be toxic to dogs so SEGD and the ASPCA Pet Poison Control Hotline (888-426-4435). should be contacted if the dog accidentally swallows human medication. Some plants are also toxic and even cause death if eaten. Such plants include, but are not limited to, Oleanders, Sago Palms and Cardboard Palms.

Top 10 Pet Toxins: Human Medications Insecticides Rodenticides People Food (xylitol, grapes, raisings, onions, garlic) Veterinary Medications Chocolate Household Cleaners (bleach, acids, detergents) Plants (lilies, palms, poinsettia) Herbicides Outdoor Toxins (antifreeze, fertilizers, ice melts)

32 VI. EMERGENCIES MEDICAL If the breeder has a medical problem, assess the situation. Is it an emergency or can it wait?

Emergencies: Can Wait: Severe trauma: uncontrollable bleeding, - Routine questions compound fracture, hit by car - Vomiting or diarrhea that is not very Severe burns of any kind frequent Ingestion of a toxin: antifreeze, rat poison, - Itchy skin chocolate - Red eyes Unconsciousness - Skin sores Inability to stand - Limping Collapsing episode - Fleas Bloat Difficulty breathing Facial swelling Extreme/frequent vomiting/diarrhea Ingestion of foreign body

Remember that every situation is different. If you are not sure if it is an emergency, please do not hesitate to contact the Genetics and Reproduction Department, and we can let you know what to do next. In the case of an emergency situation where you need to take the dog to the emergency vet, please first call the Genetics and Reproduction Department to let them know what is going on and where you are taking the breeder dog. We will then contact the clinic and let them know that it is a Southeastern Guide Dogs breeder. If it is during business hours, please call our desk phones. If it is after hours, please call the Breeder Host Emergency Phone. Remember, this phone is only for possible emergencies. If no one picks up, please leave a voicemail. *If you do not hear back from staff in a timely fashion, is always better to err on the side of caution and take the dog to the ER in cases of true emergencies (anything listed above).

In Case of Emergency Breeder Host Emergency Phone: 941-677-3920

WEATHER Since we live in the Southeast, it is almost inevitable that at some point we may have to evacuate our homes because of hurricanes or tropical storms. We are constantly reminded to have a plan, be prepared, and know where to go. Your plans must now include making arrangements for the dog.

While emergency shelters for humans do have to allow working guide dogs admittance with their handlers, guide dog puppies, breeders and household pets are not allowed access, so you will have to make other plans for them. If possible, take the dog with you if traveling to another area or have a safe place in mind where you can leave the dog.

Some shelters are pet friendly and are so marked on the shelter maps. Many more now will allow dogs, if crated. When making emergency plans, the county will know where dogs are allowed.

33 When packing, be sure to take plenty of food and water, a leash, vaccination records, collars, toys, crate, busy bags, paper towels, and be sure that the Southeastern ID tag (supplied by the school) is on the dog’s collar.

If you are having difficulty finding a safe place for the dog, do not leave it behind – call the Genetics and Reproduction Department at SEGD, and we will do everything possible to help.

After the disaster, inspect your home and yard for dangers before allowing your family or pets to enter. Also, review your disaster plan and make any modifications for next time. VII. BASIC TRAINING & PROBLEM BEHAVIORS BEHAVIOR MANAGEMENT It is up to the breeder host to maintain the dog’s obedience although we will be able to offer some support through advice and suggestions if problems arise. The most effective way to maintain a dog’s basic obedience is using positive reinforcement. Southeastern Guide Dogs primarily uses positive reinforcement in the training of the dogs. Read below for behavior management and training tips.

Treats Treats are great to use during training sessions. Just remember to try to keep them small and if you give more than a few during training, you should cut back on the amount of food in the dog’s next meal to balance it out. We recommend taking ¼ cup out of your dog’s dinner and using that as treats for the day/training. Training sessions can happen anywhere at anytime especially if you want to work on specific situations with the dog (on walks, in the car, greeting people, etc.).

Command, Praise, and Correction Voices Voice inflection is very important when working with a dog. Dogs respond to the specific words we use, but they respond even more to our tone of voice. You don’t need to speak loudly to the dog at any time; however, your voice inflection is very important. Be consistent in the tones you use when communicating with the dog. A “command” voice (the tone you use to give commands, such as sit, down, etc.) is your normal speaking tone. A “praise” voice needs to be slightly higher pitched in tone. Add some energy to your voice. A “correction” voice is lower pitched than your normal speaking voice. This is the tone to use with the word “no.” Note that this is not a yelling voice.

Praise, Praise Timing, and Praise Tolerance Praise indicates to the dog that it is engaged in the appropriate behavior. Praise is an important part of establishing understanding. Lack of praise, lack of immediate praise, or poor timing of praise all leads to confusion. Obedience commands and redirecting the dog to learn appropriate behaviors must be balanced by praise. Praise must be immediate following the appropriate behavior to let the dog know it is the correct behavior. The same value should be placed on the praise and praise timing when you ask a dog to sit, stay, or after you redirect or correct it, and it stops the inappropriate behavior. What would motivate the dog is immediately let it know it has chosen correctly and you appreciate its behavior?

Teaching, Practice, Application The dog will learn nothing (but possibly bad habits) unless you teach it what is appropriate and expected. Count on teaching through repetition. Consistency is key!

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Corrections Corrections can be used when the dog is acting inappropriately. There are two types of corrections. The first is verbal – saying the word “NO” in your correction tone of voice. The other is a collar correction. Collar corrections vary in firmness and intensity, but should never be too harsh in that they jerk the dog off the ground. We give corrections using our voice or the collar. We NEVER give physical (hitting) corrections. Once the dog stops the inappropriate behavior or performs the command correctly, remember to praise the dog. The praise will let them know that stopping the behavior was correct.

If you are consistent in showing the dog what you want and using good praise timing, you will be conditioning the dog into good behavior, and the need for corrections will be limited. When a dog truly understands what you are expecting, it is usually willing to do it for the praise. There are, of course, times when the dog will be distracted, ignore you, or test you. When this happens, you need to be aware, swift, and as firm in your correction as needed to get the attention of the dog. The correction should be at an intensity level that will stop inappropriate behavior and/or get the appropriate behavior.

For example: sometimes a dog needs to be redirected because it is young, it is just developing the understanding of a command, and its attention span is short. Sometimes a dog needs a quicker, firmer redirection because it has an idea but hasn’t practiced a command very much. Sometimes an older dog knows the command, but its attention is on something else; it needs a firm correction to get its focus back to you. When a dog pulls you hard, it may need a very firm leash or collar correction in order for its collar response to be appropriate (no pressure on the collar). Always remember to praise!

Leash Management and Collar Response You should hold the leash with both hands to obtain better control and to be able to give proper and effective corrections. Proper leash position means the dog is on a loose leash and collar 99% of the time. With the dog on your left side, your left arm should hand down naturally, and you should hold the leash so that there is just enough slack to let the collar hand loosely. There should be a slight dip in the leash, so the leash forms a letter “J.” You don’t want so much slack that the dog has 2 feet of leash which may lead to trouble. Neither do you want the leash constantly taut with the collar pulled tight. In this case you are no longer training the dog, you are merely restraining him. The dog is not learning a single thing except how to pull harder and ignore you.

When giving a correction, the leash should move in a snapping or popping motion, almost like you are trying to (gently!) crack a whip. You quickly pull the leash back to tighten the collar and just as quickly relax your arm to let the collar loosen again. The entire collar correction, where the collar is actually tight around the dog’s neck, should last only a second or two. Pulling the collar tight and holding it there is not a collar correction it is restraining your dog and achieves nothing positive. If you feel the dog pulling, do not keep moving and letting the dog pull. Immediately STOP and correct the situation with a “No.” Be sure to PRAISE when the dog responds to you and isn’t pulling.

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COMMANDS The following is a list of most of the commands we utilize for breeders:

Come Sit Down Stand Stay Heel Let’s go Kennel/Kennel Up In/Out Place Wait Break/OK No Busy Drop Off Quiet

Commands should be used once (maybe twice), but not repeatedly. The command is “Sit,” not “Sit Sit Sit Sit”

Avoid using erroneous commands like “shut up,” “get in there,” “get outta here,” “don’t,” “come on,” “please,” “hold up,” or obscene or derogatory words. Voice volume is also important. Do not yell or scream at dogs or other individuals – this is strictly prohibited. Use your tone of voice, not volume, to get attention from both dogs and people.

TRAINING ISSUES It is the responsibility of the breeder host to manage any problem behaviors that arise. If they are more than basic problems, it may require the hiring of an (SEGD approved) outside trainer to work with the host and dog. Please keep us informed of any behavioral issues you are having with the dog so that SEGD may monitor the situation.

MARKING Marking is defined as the dog purposely releasing small amounts of urine to define its territory and leave a message for other dogs. It may not seem like a problematic behavior, but allowing marking on walks wherever the dog pleases can lead to marking in unwanted locations such as indoors. Marking does not necessarily have to involve leg lifting; dogs can mark by squatting and releasing small amounts of urine where other dogs have relieved.

Marking is a common behavior problem with intact dogs. Unneutered males are the most likely to use urine to mark what they consider to be their territory, but unspayed females and even dogs who are fixed are also capable of exhibiting this behavior.

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To prevent or correct marking, give the dog a specified amount of time to relieve before starting a walk. Once you have begun the walk, keep the dog away from vertical outdoor surfaces that other dogs have likely used, such as trees and posts. You won’t be able to avoid them all, but be aware of them on your walks. Learn and observe the body language that precedes the marking behavior. Often, the dog will sniff a tree and then take a few steps forward, getting in position, or it may pull into the grass to follow a scent. Give light tugs with the leash to keep the dog moving as soon as you see this posturing; do not allow him to stop. If he does stop and ends up marking, this is where a quick, pop-and-release correction and a firm NO can be applied. Do not drag the dog away if he is still urinating. Simply correct him, clean it up if necessary, and move on.

Be aware of the potential for marking when visiting other homes or locations especially if the home has other dogs. The dog may be housebroken in your home, but dogs do not generalize well. It is a good idea to keep the dog leashed initially when visiting another place. You can gradually give the dog more freedom, but continue to supervise and be prepared to correct.

DESTRUCTIVENESS Just as with a human toddler, too much unsupervised freedom leads to destructiveness. Structure the dog’s surroundings and toys to help him make good choices. Keep the dog on leash, on tie-down, or in the crate with a variety of approved toys. Make sure you are supervising the dog when it is with you. If you see it chewing on something inappropriate, quickly correct and redirect. Tell the dog NO and give it an approved toy. If the dog continues chewing on the inappropriate item, move it so the item is out of reach and it can only chew on the approved toy.

If you find yourself getting into a game of chase with the dog, or if the dog manages to destroy something, it has too much freedom. Restrict the dog’s freedom and prevent access to the forbidden items. Chewing is a self-rewarding behavior, and if it continues to have access to your household items, the behavior will not extinguish.

As the dog earns more freedom, it may get craftier about when it is destructive. If the dog chews on furniture, purchase a bitter tasting chew-deterrent from the pet store. Apply this directly to furniture. However, if the dog still chews, you can try a more direct approach (only do this once): Lift the dog’s lip and spray the bitter flavor directly into the dog’s mouth when you see him chewing on something inappropriate. By using this direct application as a correction, the dog will be deterred in the future if he tastes even a small amount of the bitter liquid. If you just spray the deterrent without that direct correction, some dogs will chew in spite of a small amount of bitter flavor. But after that negative encounter, they will usually avoid even the smallest amount of deterrent. Apply the deterrent onto furniture, socks, paper, or other items the dog tends to chew.

If the dog gets hold of a forbidden item and begins to play keep away, do not engage the dog in chase, make a big deal, or grab at him suddenly. Instead, calmly follow it and when you can catch the dog, have it SIT. Then tell the dog to DROP IT and take the item out of it’s mouth.

The time for training is not during a confrontation. If need be, get another toy or a treat to trade for the forbidden item. You can train later; the current need is to get the item out of the dog’s mouth as quickly as possible. If you punish the dog, respond to it’s game, or make the encounter a negative experience, you

37 teach the dog to avoid you or to swallow the item quickly. Instead, calmly address the situation and set the dog up for a training scenario later. For example, if the dog steals a sock, leave a few socks lying around while the dog is on leash. If it lunges for the sock, shorten the leash, remove the item, and try again. When the dog pays attention to you instead of the socks, give a treat. You can also spray the socks with a bitter deterrent as a booby trap. Use a combination of prevention, redirection, and training set-ups to teach the dog appropriate house manners.

MOUTHING To correct mouthing, you can use a verbal correction, withdraw your attention, or physically make mouthing uncomfortable. A verbal correction can be a stern, low NO or a high-pitched “ouch.” When young puppies play together or with their mother, displeasure at being bitten too hard is expressed with a low growl or a high yelp, so this correction mimics what they are accustomed to. You can also withdraw all attention as part of a correction. If you’re petting the dog and he turns around and starts mouthing, stop petting him and ignore him entirely. He can quickly learn that you’ll only continue play and provide attention if he keeps his teeth to himself.

Sometimes, a very gentle muzzle hold will deter a mouthy dog. Do not use force or pinch the dog. Determined pups will often be more aggravated by corrections. These puppies tend to start snapping, barking, and generally increasing in intensity. In the case of aggravation, do not continue to use around- the-mouth corrections. When he starts mouthing or biting your hand, say “ouch” or NO, and then immediately withdraw your attention or walk away.

By removing the temptation of your flesh or clothing, the dog is free to focus his frustrations on a nearby toy. However, sometimes these determined dogs will bite your legs or feet if you stand up or try to walk away, or will grab the nearest piece of furniture. If the dog is mouthing and getting overly worked up, quietly deposit him into the crate or tie him down out of your reach, then ignore him for a few minutes. Do not scold him or make a big deal about it and don’t leave him in time out for very long. This time out is not punishment, but rather a chance for him to calm down. When you bring him out of time-out, have a toy available for him, so he has a chance to be successful.

After 6 months old, continue to redirect or withdraw attention from any mouthing. Mouthing from a teething puppy is a normal behavior, but it can easily become a habit and you’ll want to discourage mouthing if it is the dog’s go-to behavior for greetings. Withdraw all attention as soon as you feel the dog’s teeth. This withdrawal also applies if you are holding a toy and the dog accidentally misses the toy; stop all play immediately so that the dog learns to have control over his mouth.

If the dog mouths persistently, say NO, gently hold his muzzle, and then offer him a more appropriate item to hold (such as a toy). You can also put him on leash to help calm him; enforce several commands to help calm him down and focus. Dogs will be more likely to mouth when they’re full of energy, when their gums are uncomfortable, or if they’re frustrated. You can also always redirect the dog onto a toy; if the dog likes to carry his toys, name them and send him to get them (“Get the Kong, get the bone,” etc.)

If the dog is greeting someone and begins to mouth, call the dog to you and use rewards to keep his attention on you (or have the greeter withdraw attention). Dogs that mouth with greetings are usually a little insecure, even as they are happy and social. For dogs like this, it can be beneficial to have a toy for the dog to hold during greetings. Hand the dog the toy to hold before you allow him to greet. This can serve as a “pacifier” and make it more likely to have a successful, four-on-the-floor greeting. The “retriever instinct” can

38 be very pronounced in these dogs, so channeling it rather than trying to squelch it is often much more successful.

JUMPING Jumping On People If the dog jumps on you in the house, turn your back and ignore the dog (or, if you are seated, simply look away from him, or stand up and ignore him). Begin praising again as soon as all four feet are on the floor, and turn your back if the dog jumps up again. If you feel the dog is trying but doesn’t know the right answer, redirect him into a command such as SIT or DOWN. To eliminate the jumping behavior, all members of the household (and guests) need to be consistent in not giving the dog attention for jumping.

If the dog persistently jumps on you despite turning your back, either walk away entirely or put the dog on a leash. Once he is leashed, you can step on the leash so that the dog self-corrects as he attempts to jump up. Give tangible rewards (such as pieces of kibble) for calm behavior.

When the dog starts getting the idea and understanding that jumping has undesirable consequences, start saying OFF every time you turn your back, or as the dog self-corrects with the leash. Have the dog perform a behavior that is incompatible with jumping, such as SIT or DOWN, before you give him attention. He doesn’t have to STAY, but responding to commands will start to settle him. Some dogs are naturally more “pushy” with their use of space; these dogs will need very clear instructions in order for them to be successful. OFF can be a tough concept for dogs to understand, so be patient.

If the dog jumps on visitors in your home, use the leash to control his behavior. Regular guests can be instructed to ignore any jumping behavior. You can also keep treats handy so that the guest can tell the dog to SIT and reward him. The treat will help to calm the dog’s excitement over the greeting and will allow him to focus. However, if the dog is too wild to focus on the food, remove him to another room to give him a chance to calm down. Then bring him back out on the leash and try the greeting again once your guest has gotten settled. If the dog jumps, tell him OFF and use the leash to remove him gently from the greeting. Once the dog has settled, you can try again or simply put him into a DOWN/STAY on leash to help him relax.

When the dog jumps on strangers who want to greet him, it is often easier to train the dog than to train the people. Many people will tell you that they don’t mind if the dog jumps, or they’ll be too distracted by saying hello to remember to ignore the dog when he jumps. In that case, allow the dog to say hello as long as all four paws are on the ground. As soon as he jumps, back up and call his attention to you. Give light tugs on the leash rather than pulling him away. Tell the dog to SIT; then allow the dog to approach the greeter rather than having the greeter walk towards the dog. The anticipation of watching someone approach to say hello can be too much for some dogs, so it is better to walk him up to a person. Then if he jumps, you can walk him away. After he has settled, you can approach again.

When the dog is greeting appropriately, you can have him SIT or DOWN to continue the greeting. The sit or down posture is the eventual behavior you want during a greeting; however, start with the four-on-the-floor rule, then progress to a command.

Jumping On Furniture

39 As puppies, our dogs were not allowed on furniture. As breeders, they are but only if you allow it. Otherwise continue to be consistent by not allowing them on the furniture.

Dogs will often attempt to jump onto furniture while excited, if they see pets that are allowed onto the couch, or when trying to reach people’s faces. If the dog tries to get on the furniture, have the dog drag a leash; you can use a short length of leash if the dog tends to get tangled or chews on it. When the dog jumps onto the furniture, use the leash to tug the dog off the furniture while saying OFF in a stern voice.

Remember to praise the dog for resisting temptation. For example, if the dog solicits attention and suppresses the urge to jump, lavish him with praise and attention. Do not give the dog attention if he even places a paw onto the furniture; instead, remind him with OFF and enforce it. If the dog jumps onto the furniture while playing with other dogs, tell the dog OFF and interrupt any playtime. The dog will associate furniture jumping with the end of playtime.

PULLING ON LEASH When the dog sees a distraction such as another dog, a friendly person, or a familiar location, he may get excited and start pulling hard. If the dog pulls too hard on the leash, you can use directional changes or just stop all forward movement to teach him that hard pulling is unacceptable.

Start by working on attention and the “be a tree” method: as soon as the dog speeds up his pace, stop all forward movement (that’s the “be a tree” part). When the dog looks back at you, praise him and give him a treat. Have the dog SIT, then start forward again and repeat if the dog lunges. After a few repetitions, delay the treat until the dog takes a few steps next to you, rather than immediately treating him.

If he does not want to give you attention when you stop, start walking in the other direction. Reward him when he begins to follow you and then turn to head in the original direction you wanted to go. You may spend a lot of time on the same stretch of sidewalk – practicing stopping and directional changes, but that’s okay. The dog will learn better by practicing on familiar territory. Plus, he will have already passed those particular sights and scents, so it will be easier to get his attention focused onto you. Novel environments will always be more distracting than an environment you have repeatedly walked past.

Be very consistent about not letting the dog pull you towards a distraction. Only allow access to what the dog wants if he is under control. If the dog continues to pull, do not give in. You may want to use an alternate collar or harness to help improve leash manners. Remember, however, that there is no replacement for consistency and training.

SNIFFING Predisposition for sniffing is a genetically determined behavior. Some dogs will have more natural inclination to see the world through their nose. As a dog approaches puberty, hormones will often intensify the urge to sniff.

Sniffing is generally not a big deal. It becomes a problem when it leads to other behaviors such as lunging on the leash, marking or scavenging. However, if the dog is sniffing while walking, and is still generally attentive to you, it is not cause for concern.

40 If, however, the sniffing is causing problematic behavior, review the Leash Management and Collar Pressure Protocol section in Chapter 6 and the Sniffing section previously in this chapter. Work with the dog in short segments, applying tension to the leash and rewarding the dog when he releases the tension. Use sniffing as a reward; if the dog walks past a tantalizing patch of grass and chooses to give you attention, take him back to the spot and tell him to BREAK. Rather than trying to fight the sniffing, teach him that there are times when it is acceptable to sniff.

BARKING If you have a dog who whines or barks for your attention, make sure you are not inadvertently rewarding the dog by petting him, letting him out of the crate, or feeding him when he vocalizes. While there may be times that the dog vocalizes in order to express the need to relieve himself, it is important to address the relief need. For example, if the dog wakes up at 4 a.m. and cries to go outside, take the dog out, allow him to do his business, and then bring him right back into the crate with minimal praise or attention. You do not want the dog to think that vocalizing will result in playtime.

Otherwise, if the dog’s needs have been met and he is still vocalizing, ignore him. If ignoring does not deter him, calmly but firmly give him a command, such as DOWN or puppy push-ups and enforce it. If necessary, put him on a tie-down to encourage him to calm down. Once he has settled, give him some brief, calm attention, then go back to what you were doing. He will learn that he only gets the attention he wants when he is quiet.

MOUNTING Do not allow the dog to mount you or objects in your home. They will learn that there is a time and place for this at the school, and nowhere else – you will not be interfering with his job. Tell him no. If this becomes a problem, you may need to leash him so you can give corrections when this happens. If this still continues, you may need to consult a trainer. VIII. RETIREMENT The retirement age for our breeding animals varies depending on a number of factors. Our male breeders typically retire between the age of 6 to 8 depending on the production needs of the school, genetic diversity, and health of the stud. Sometimes a male may be retired early because one of his progeny is in the breeding colony.

Our female breeders typically retire around 5 to 6 years of age. Typically, females give the school four litters. Each female is looked at on an individual biases, and a decision for retirement is based on her production, health, and genetics.

Please understand each dog is different and may be retired at any time for genetics, health concerns, age, etc. There is a spay/neuter requirement with retirement.

Upon completion of the dog’s participation in the Breeding Program, SEGD will spay/neuter the dog and utilize the following guidelines for adoption: *If the breeder is retired within its first six months of service, SEGD reserves the right to retain the dog. *If SEGD declines to put the dog into one of their programs, the puppy raiser will have the first opportunity to adopt the dog.

41 *If the puppy raiser declines adoption, the host will have the chance to adopt the dog for a fee.

*If the breeder has been placed with you for over a year, the host will have the opportunity to adopt the dog at no charge.

You may choose not to adopt the breeder at which point it will be offered back to the puppy raiser or go to public adoption. We make sure all our dogs are placed in loving forever homes.

When it is time for the breeder to retire, you will be sent an official notice from SEGD. At that time, you will contact our Medical department to schedule a time for the dog’s spay or neuter and any other medical procedures to be done. Upon pickup, you will schedule a date (about one week later) to bring the dog to campus for their exam and official retirement, at which time we will examine the dog and sign the paperwork as long as nothing looks amiss. If we notice anything wrong at this exam, we will delay the retirement until any health problems have been cleared up. We don’t want to retire the dog and sign them over to your care and responsibility unless they are completely healthy.

Once the dog is retired, you are responsible for all the dog’s expenses. SEGD can no longer provide advice or resources, as we need to focus on our active breeding colony. Unfortunately, our veterinary center is too small to accommodate non-active program dogs, so you will need to find a different vet for your dog.

You will be required to bring the dog back to campus every two years for a wellness exam provided at SEGD’s expense. If you move out of the area, please notify SEGD. You will then be required to provide SEGD with results of physical exams bi-annually at your expense.

You will also be required to have the dog’s eyes examined every two years – this can be done free of charge during the month of May, where ACVO provides service dogs eye exams. You will get details about this every April – you will have to register your own dog, but retired breeders also count for this. This is very important as the breeder may have progeny in training, as working guide dogs, or in the breeding program.

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