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Formula4Media Publications Sports Insight Footwear Insight Inside Insight SEPTOCT15 Outdoor Insight Team Insight Textile Insight Trend Insight Running Insight

Footwear Insight® is a trademark of Formula4 Media, LLC, Great Neck, New York. ©2015 08 16 20 28 30 34 All rights reserved. The opinions expressed by authors and contributors to Footwear Insight are not necessarily those of the editors or THE FOOTWEAR EYE B CORPS BRANDS QUIRKY & COOL AMERICAN BEAUTY DESIGN EVOLUTION LINES WE LIKE publishers. Footwear Insight is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. A roundup and Taking a closer look at Checking in with three Boot brand Khombu is Execs from leading Shoes that do more Articles appearing in Footwear Insight may not analysis of key what it takes and what cool & quirky retailers. collaborating with the performance footwear than just look good. be reproduced in whole or in part without the industry happenings the benefits are of being What makes them U.S. ski team on a cool brands discuss the We highlight a few express permission of the publisher. and trends. certified as B Corps. different? Take a look. made in USA product. new design paradigm. brands that give back. Footwear Insight is published bi-monthly: Jan/Feb; Mar/Apr; May/Jun; Jul/Aug; Sep/Oct; and Nov/Dec by Formula4 Media LLC.

Subscriptions: one year, $24.00 (U.S. Funds) On The Cover: The Iguana Racer by Carson Footwear. Above: Sperry collaboration with retailer Extra Butter. Cover photo by Frank James. in the United States. All other countries, $54.00 (U.S. Funds) for surface mail. Postmaster: Send address changes to Footwear Insight, P.O. Box 23-1318, Great Neck, NY 11023 4 • Footwear Insight ~ September/October 2015

TIMEOUT | MARK SULLIVAN the healthiest shoes you’ll ever wear® The Perils of Riding Trends

I AM TEACHING MY TEENAGE SON TO DRIVE AND IT’S INTERESTING TO explain in theory something that most of us do without thinking. Recently we discussed how to react in a skid and I gave him the advice we all learned in driver’s education class: “steer in the direction of the skid and pump the brakes.” As soon as those words were out of my mouth, my son stopped the car, put it in park and said to me, “Dad that makes absolutely no sense.” And I couldn’t argue with him. It sounds like the exact opposite of what you should do. And let’s face it, if you’ve ever been behind the wheel of a car and gone into a bad skid, your reaction is more instinctual than logical. Logically, you would say “I am in a skid, let me turn the wheel 40 degrees in that direction and pump the brakes until the “Oh my God, I’m car comes to a complete stop.” going to crash and Instinctually, you would most likely say “Oh my God, I’m going to crash and maybe maybe die. I hope my die. I hope my underwear is good and that underwear is good and I cleaned out my browser history before that I cleaned out my leaving work today.” And then cut the wheel every which way until the car comes to a browser history before complete and full stop. leaving work today.” Riding trends in the footwear business is like driving a car at high speeds. It’s thrilling, fun and a little bit dangerous and the goal is to go as fast as you can before things hit the skids. Because one thing I am sure of is that trends always end. And in today’s market, they end all at once. It used to be things tapered off and stores and brands could slowly disperse of hot product a little at a time and everyone was left with some dignity. Today, when a trend ends, it’s like someone hit a switch and it’s just over: a skid that crashes into a wall before you can act logically and pump the brakes. Brands often contribute to these ugly endings by jumping on a trend a little too late or leaning in on a trend when their product gets hot. About 10 years ago, Timberland got real hot in the urban market. Kids loved the boots because they were beautiful, well made, performed and were unlike the athletic shoes that had dominated their closets for years. Timberland attempted to embrace this trend by developing products for the urban market, which was the polar opposite reason why these consumers liked their product in the first place. It did not end well. And other brands, such as Tommy Hilfiger, have taken similar bumps and bruises in the urban market place. We’ve seen similar perils in the youth market recently. Boat shoes and the prep look have enjoyed a resurgence. And brands such as Sperry have tried to lean in to the trend, rather than sit back and enjoy the benefits of a bump in business. Once a brand is perceived as trying, that’s usually the sign that the trend is waning and it’s time for retailers to move on. In fashion journalism, there is an old expression “If two people are doing it, it’s a trend.” The flip side of that of course is “if 20 people are doing it, the trend is about to die.” Here’s hoping that everyone gets to pump the brakes in time this fall. O

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Sneakers as Works of Art ON DISPLAY

Converse All Star/Non Skid from 1917. Pierre Hardy Poworama from 2011. Converse Gripper from the late 1940s, early 1950s.

Nike Waffle Trainer from 1974. adidas x Run-DMC 25th Anniversary Superstar 2011. adidas Micropacer from 1984.

Louis Vuitton x Kanye West Don from 2009. Photos courtesy American Federation of Arts/Bata Shoe Museum, photographer Ron Wood. Nike Foamposite from 1997. Nike x Tom Sachs. NikeCraft Lunar Underboot Aeroply Research Boot Prototype from 2008-2012.

or those who believe that sneakers are works of art of fitness, hip-hop and basketball that fueled brand recognition and that deserve to be displayed in glass cases, the “Rise sales in that decade for the likes of Adidas, Reebok and Nike. of Sneaker Culture” exhibit recently on display at Highlights for even the seasoned sneaker observer include dozens Brooklyn Museum was definitely on point. of rare sneakers on display from private collectors such as hip-hop The exhibit, whose run is scheduled to end on legend Darryl “DMC” McDaniels, sneaker guru Bobbito Garcia and October 4, aims to “explore the complex social his- Dee Wells of Obsessive Sneaker Disorder. Also featured are one-off Ftory and cultural significance of the footwear now worn by billions styles from Louis Vuitton, Prada and other fashion design houses, of people throughout the world.” Less about technology and more as well as those made in collaboration with artists including Damien about the sneaker as a cultural object, the exhibit features more Hirst and Shantell Martin. Film footage, interactive media and design than 150 sneakers from a variety of brands, most notably Nike, drawings contextualize the sneakers and explore the social history, Converse, Puma, Adidas and Reebok. technical innovations, fashion trends, and marketing campaigns There are allusions to the influence of sports cars on sneaker that have shaped sneaker culture over the past two centuries. design. There is also reference to the late start that brands got in “The Rise of Sneaker Culture” exhibit was organized by the designing for women. And there is a nod to the overall 80s collision American Federation of Arts and the Bata Shoe Museum, Toronto. O

8 • Footwear Insight ~ September/October 2015 footwearinsight.com RUNNING SELECT

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RUNNING Saucony’s Game- Changing Tech for Spring

Saucony Men’s Triumph ISO 2 with Everun.

By Jennifer Ernst Beaudry the foot. As soon as you put the shoe on, you can feel it.” And while the material has an immediately apparent rebound, oston-based Saucony is bringing Everun, its he said, Saucony was conscious of keeping the same general springy new cushioning material to market for “feel” to its franchise models even as they incorporate the new Spring ’16, and the company is feeling bullish. So construction. bullish, in fact, that it’s infusing the thermoplastic “We’ve got so many loyal runners, what we didn’t want to do was urethane polymer into all of its new technical put this into our shoes and make them feel different,” he said. running shoes for the season, including the The TopSole construction — about 5mm of the material BGuide 9, the Kinvara 7, and the Peregrine 6. Everun, which was attached to the strobel board — will be incorporated across the developed by a factory partner in Asia, gives a smooth, resilient line, and higher-end shoes like the Triumph and the Hurricane ride, according to Pat O’Malley, SVP of global product for Saucony. will have additional Everun material in a crash pad in the heel Like other TPUs, Everun isn’t temperature sensitive and doesn’t as well. Going forward, the brand will add the material in its break down as quickly as other foams. According to the brand, updates to shoes like the Omni and the Ride, and will continue the material has 83 percent energy return, and maintains its to “evolve it going forward,” according to O’Malley. cushioning properties three times longer than standard EVA. Saucony has an exclusive on the Everun material “for the But what’s even more unique, said O’Malley, is how the brand foreseeable future,” O’Malley said; patents are pending on the is using it, a process they developed in-house called TopSole. brand’s TopSole construction method. “We’re doing this in a very different way than traditional “This is gonna be a big game-changer for us — it’s very similar cushioning,” explained O’Malley. “Normally with an EVA midsole to when we went to 8mm offset,” he said. “We did a lot of testing the foam is put in the midsole and encased in EVA. We’ve taken and realized it makes the product better, so we’re doing it across Everun out of the midsole and put it on top, so it’s really close to the line. This is a long-term play for us.” O

10 • Footwear Insight ~ September/October 2015 footwearinsight.com ortholite’s advanced, proprietary and revolutionary open-cell foam technology sets the standard for comfort and performance by delivering a combination of benefits unmatched by any other manufacturer. the breathable, moisture wicking, shock absorbing, anti-microbial properties of ortholite insoles help keep feet drier, cooler and more comfortable than the competition. it’s why the world’s leading brands trust ortholite to provide the highest level of customer satisfaction.

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PREMIUM LINE Sanuk’s Yoga Sighs

anuk is celebrating the 10 year anniversary of its Yoga Mat sandal with the introduction of a new premium line of footwear featuring a sling design on a premium footbed. The new collection, featuring a striking sling design, will target department stores, mall-based retailers and youthS lifestyle stores, according to Sanuk president Jake Brandman, who sees the line reaching out to an untapped female consumer base. Founded as a surf and beach footwear brand, Sanuk has become more active in the Yoga market. Last year, the company was an active sponsor of the Wanderlust Festivals, which bill themselves as “all-out celebrations of mindful living,” which include yoga and meditation instructors, musicians, speakers, artists, and chefs for retreats in Sanuk’s new collection resort settings. Brandman said Wanderlust was a good fit for Sanuk features sandals with because the brand is part of “the wellbeing after the wellbeing.” premium footbeds. At the festivals, Sanuk held its “Try ‘Em On For Sighs,” promotion which rewarded consumers for trying on any pair of the brand’s footwear and sharing their experience on Instagram. The program is continuing at select retailers through January, 2016. Weekly winners are eligible for a grand prize trip for two to Oahu, Hawaii including tickets to the February 2016 Wanderlust Festival and Sanuk footwear for a year. In addition, for every photo tagged, Sanuk will donate one dollar to Operation Smile, an international children’s medical charity that performs safe, effective cleft lip and cleft palate surgery to children in low and middle-income countries. O

BRANCHING OUT A Jewel of an Idea Babe Orange Reflective Avon Neon Green About Straw Atlantis Paisley

Bernie Mev is expanding from the woven shoes that are the signature of the brand into sandals, handbags and jewelry. Mev designer Rachel Carmi says her ideas for footwear and jewelry are inspired by her mom who was an Israeli jewelry designer, who gave her beads to play with as a child.

12 • Footwear Insight ~ September/October 2015 footwearinsight.com ON CAMPUS Cash for Colleges

By Bob McGee and merchandise-laden 12-year contract, the longest he major such deal in Three Stripe athletic history. Seven months later, brands, Michigan ended its all- including Nike, school deal with Adidas by Under Armour securing the most lucrative, and Adidas, all-team apparel contract mayT be inadvertently in history. The 11-year Nike funding new athlete deal with a four-year option acquisition costs at major is valued at $169 million, universities. Institutions with the compensation split can now offer their between cash and apparel. student-athletes additional compensation beyond traditional scholarships via NCAA-approved stipends. For major conferences, some of this needed extra dough may come from pulling cash out of these richer and longer-term outfitting deals. The competition to lock- up major collegiate athletic programs is heating up. And so is the annual cost. Some say the competitive landscape for such contracts shifted for good in January 2014 when Under Armour severed Adidas’ Smaller schools and 16-year relationship with athletic conferences are Notre Dame by signing a also looking for a piece 10-year, $90 million deal of the action. In July, the with Fighting Irish Athletics. Pac-12 Conference secured Earlier this year, Nike, a three-year partnership sniffing out Under Armour’s with Adidas, and Western desire to snatch away the Kentucky University, which University of Virginia, inked shares its home town of a 10-year extension worth Bowling Green with Russell $35 million, and paid a $2 Athletic, has signed a five- million signing bonus. Later, year extension worth $3.5 Nike grabbed Tennessee million. Delaware has an away from Adidas with an outfitting deal for all 21 Blue eight-year contract. And a Hen teams with Adidas. O recent seven-year extension with Clemson will cost Nike $23 million, while Adidas’ seven-year deal with Texas A&M will pay the Aggies $7.1 This story is re-printed from million this year, including Inside Insight, a new digital $1.7 million in cash. publication from Formula4 It’s estimated that athletic Media published twice a brands funnel $250 million month that targets senior annually into outfitting level executives in the college athletic teams, a sports and active footwear figure that is surely on business. To subscribe to Inside Insight, please visit: Under Armour cleat for Notre Dame. the rise. Adidas snatched Miami (FL) away from Nike insideinsight.com in January with a cash footwearinsight.com September/October 2015 ~ Footwear Insight • 13 THEFOOTWEAREYE

STRATEGY New Balance Serves Notice

retailer’s success in apparel. “A steady flow of New Balance aims new merchandise to retailers will help drive to be a major player in apparel. At right: traffic, increase turn, margins and units per NB VP global apparel transaction.” Deirdre FitzGerald. New Balance will now ship eight collections a year, up from two in an effort to drive “a steady cadence of newness,” according to FitzGerald. The apparel collections will synch up with footwear. For example, the brand’s Merino

wool collection, which drew raves at the January Outdoor Retailer Winter Market, hooks back up to the Fresh Foam footwear line and the “Made for Movement” Seamless Apparel synchs up with the Vazee lightweight running shoe collection. FitzGerald says New Balance is committed to elevating the aesthetics of its apparel without compromising the performance aspects. After a career of selling sweaters and arlier this month, New Balance new merchandise. women’s accessories, FitzGerald says she was served notice of its plans to be “Our commitment to grow the category drawn to New Balance by the opportunity a major player in the apparel is not limited to selling direct to consumers to get into the active business and by the category by mailing a 72-page through the catalog,” FitzGerald said. “What brand’s willingness to invest in becoming a women’s catalog to more than we show in the catalog can also be shown serious player in the category. one million shoppers. And just online or in store windows.” “You can’t go a day without reading an Ein case anyone misses it, the brand will follow FitzGerald has a strong background in article about the growth of athleisure,” she up by mailing another catalog on November 1st, retail. She started her career as a buyer at says. “That’s exciting to us and it should be for and then sending out a third shot prior to the Bloomingdales and later moved to Brooks retailers, too.” holiday shopping season. Brothers, J.Crew and Talbots, where as Exec Despite the increased competition from Deirdre FitzGerald, who joined New Balance VP and GMM, she oversaw all categories and stores such as Lululemon and Athleta, she as VP of global apparel in January, 2014, says businesses. says running and sporting goods stores have a the catalog is a key step in building the brand’s “Having a focus on retail is essential to how place to be profitable in the business. “These apparel business as it communicates the we’ll create our apparel business and bring stores have strong connections with athletes breadth of its current collection as well as the it to market,” FitzGerald says, adding that a and youth sports,” she says. “That’s a powerful ability to tell a story through a steady flow of constant flow of new merchandise is vital to a competitive advantage.” O

14 • Footwear Insight ~ September/October 2015 footwearinsight.com NEW PRODUCT A Tall Tale

The Freewaters Tall Boy sandal features some extra cushion.

li Marmar, the designer and founder of Freewaters, says his newest sandal, The Tall Boy, was inspired by the success of Hoka and other maximal shoes he saw in the running market. “When I first saw those shoes, I thought ‘wow, that’s extreme’, but they worked and I loved how they stood out from everything else on the market.” EAt that time, Freewaters was looking to create a standout product of its own. The brand had been “growing at a nice pace” since its founding in 2009, according to Marmar, but was looking for a breakout product that would help the company grow beyond its core retailers in the surf and boardsports categories. The Tall Boy could be that product, he says, noting that it is already the number one booking sandal in the line and will be carried forward into an expanded collection this fall. It’s likely that no sandal has ever come to market with a “cushioning story,” but Marmar says that’s exactly what’s driving the success of the product.” A typical sandal’s peak thickness is 20-25mm. The Tall Boy is 50 percent thicker at 30-35mm,” he says. To create continuous, soft cushioning and flex from top to bottom, both the midsole and outsole are specced with soft durometer EVA foam rubbers. “This helps maintain a natural feel and connection to the ground,” he explains, noting that the “visual thickness is disguised by tricking the eye with a two-part mold that allows for a horizontal color break between the midsole and outsole.” The original Tall Boys shipped in spring with an MSRP of $45 and were followed by a leather version that retailed for $60. The Tall Boy XT will begin shipping in October with a suggested retail of $55. O footwearinsight.com September/October 2015 ~ Footwear Insight • 15 BRANDSSTANDARDS

By Jennifer Ernst Beaudry practices. (Firms are assessed Cunningham, marketing director. based on size, so a five-person But all the brands polled by aking community startup isn’t held to the same Footwear Insight agreed, it’s a big engagement and standards as a global monolith like time commitment. environmental fellow B Corp Patagonia.) If the Before getting certified in October Mstewardship a priority firm scores 80 out of 200 possible of 2013, retailer Gazelle Sports is a key part of many footwear points on the assessment, they hired an intern who spent that brand mission statements. But for a can pursue a more rigorous review summer gathering the required handful of companies, trying to “do with B Lab and, after they’ve set data, according to co-owner Chris good” in a loose and undefined way up a legal commitment to B Corp Lampen-Crowell. isn’t enough: they’re looking not practices (through amending the Brooklyn-based casual sneaker only for benchmarks against which corporate charter or governing brand Inkkas took somewhere they can measure themselves, documents) and paid a fee (ranging between nine months and a year to but also for standards they can from $500 a year for firms with sales complete the process, according constantly improve upon. under $500,000 a year to more than to founder and CEO Dan Ben-Nun, That’s why brands including $50,000 for brands with yearly sales and for Boulder, CO-based running Dansko, Newton, and Olukai are topping $1 billion), the company is brand Newton, spearheading RATED formalizing their corporate social certified for two years. Each year, 10 the effort for their October 2014 responsibility commitment by percent of companies are surprise certification involved presenting B being certified as B Corps — and audited to check compliance. And the project to a group of businesses according to the firms who have with each recertification, the B students at the University of done it, it’s a big win for their Lab requires that the brand drive Colorado, and hiring them for a businesses. improvements in their score. semester to follow it through. So what is a B Corp? There are approximately 1,370 “We’re a small company and a According to Katie Kerr Holcomb, companies in 41 countries in all small brand, so the biggest cost is director of communications for fields who have been certified as certainly time,” Anne Klein, VP of Wayne, PA-based B Lab (the B Corps since its founding in 2007, administration, Newton Running, nonprofit parent company that Kerr Holcomb said — less than 10 said. oversees B Corp certification), of them in the footwear space. Many And getting certified doesn’t “We say these are companies that more firms of all kinds, she pointed generally bring an immediate rise in use the power of their business out, have taken the assessment sales to make up for the certification to solve social and environmental online: only a fraction of the costs and the man-hours sunk. In a challenges. They want to set a companies pursue and qualify for B competitive marketplace, being the high standard of performance, Corp status. kind of business that meets B Corp accountability and transparency.” The rigor of the process is standards isn’t cheap. The first step — an online what attracted Oakville, Ontario- “We have to sell at similar prices assessment that takes 90 minutes based Oliberté, which has been to the [brands who manufacture] or so — evaluates the company a B Corp since 2012. “As far as in China, so our margins shrink,”

B Corps brands, clockwise from bottom on how it is governed, the way it we’re concerned, no one touches Inkkas’ Ben-Nun said. “Business left: Retailer Gazelle Sports, Oliberté treats it employees, its community them for setting that standard for isn’t a fair playing field, but I never and Newton Running. engagement and environmental being a good business,” said Todd expected it to be. It’s just not fair at

16 • Footwear Insight ~ September/October 2015 footwearinsight.com of [positive] feedback from all our target groups, reps, in-house employees and consumers,” he Assessing said. And that can help the bottom line. “I would also say it was definitely The Situation apparent from the get-go that it The B Impact Assessment, available on the B Corp website, gives was a business advantage as well,” interested companies a sense of where they stand in terms of corporate Inkkas’ Ben-Nun said. The three-year-old brand, which governance, community impact, environmental impact and worker got B Corp certification in 2014, has relations. Tailored to a company’s size, business sector and location, the seen year-over-year growth every online quiz should take about 90 minutes to go through. Below, Footwear year since their founding, and has Insight has excerpted some of the kinds of questions you can expect. added accounts including J.Crew, Nordstrom and Forever 21. 1. Does your company monitor 5. Which is the broadest “We’ve seen that even the and record its universal waste community with whom your mainstream shops are very production? environmental reviews/audits are interested in our product,” he said. formally shared? • We do not currently monitor and “I assume part of that interest is record waste production • Owners, Executives and Board because it’s stylish, but part is • Our company monitors and • Employees because it represent the ideals of records waste production (no • Broader community outside the the millennial generation.” reduction targets) company And Olukai’s Konrady said one • Our company monitors waste • N/A all, but that’s the price you pay.” of the benefits of pursuing the production and has specific 6. What is the minimum number But, brands say, there are certification through B Corp was reduction targets of vacation days/sick days/per- definitely benefits — both tangible getting connected to a network of • Our company monitors waste sonal days/holidays offered annu- and intangible. similarly-minded brands to share production and has met specific ally to full-time tenured* workers? For one, it formalizes a drive to experiences and learn from. reduction targets during the improve, Newton’s Klein said. “There’s a camaraderie around reporting period • 0-15 work days “That’s what I love about it, each the peer brands that are B Corps • N/A - Company does not have • 16-20 work days time you recertify it gets harder: that’s exciting to note, and there’s a any universal waste production • 21-25 work days you can’t just rest on your laurels,” level of sophistication that they’re • 26-30 work days 2. Are full-time employees she said. “It’s about continued operating in that we’re driving to,” • >30 work days explicitly allowed any of the progress and improvement — and he said. following paid or non-paid time- taking small steps to get better and “We have a little West Michigan B 7. Does the company have a off hours options for community better.” Corp group and we share ideas and formal process to share financial service? information (except salary info) And it pays off with hiring, too, we do things together,” Lampen- with its full-time employees? she added. Crowell agreed. “We wanted to • Non-paid time off “One of the benefits I see learn from our peers and to be • Paid time off • No regularly is in recruiting employees, engaged with our peers that had • More than 20 hours a year of paid • Yes - the company shares basic especially when you’re looking at the same sort of values as a way time off revenue/cost numbers if employees the outdoor industry. [You find] to become a better business, and • Do not offer paid or non-paid ask for them younger employees who have a that’s what’s happened.” time off • Yes - the company discloses all financial information (except salary vested interest in outdoor and That’s part of the reason, he 3. What % of the company is info) at least yearly millennials, frankly — people who said, he encourages business owned by full-time workers • Yes - the company discloses all are looking to make a difference in owners to look into doing the (excluding founders/executives)? financial information (except salary the world,” Klein said. assessment and potentially • 0% info) at least quarterly Gazelle Sports’ Lampen-Crowell getting certified. Lampen-Crowell • 1-4% • Yes - the company has an open agreed. Additionally, he said, said he sees B Corp certification • 5-24% book management process it keeps staff motivated — and as another tool that store owners • 25-50% • Company also has an intentional that pays off with the consumer. and company heads can use to • >50% education program around shared “Creating a culture of caring take stock — and take their CSR • N/A - Company is a consumer/ financials employees actually impacts the practices to the next level. shared services cooperative or a way customers are treated,” he “I would definitely recommend producer cooperative 8. What % of management it — for any business, as you is from underrepresented said. “We have employees who are 4. Has the Company worked populations?** highly engaged and who care about evolve, you should be really within its industry to develop these things, and consumers love looking at measuring yourself, social and environmental • 0 to come into that environment.” and the B Corp tool is a very standards for your industry? • 1-19% Since getting certified, Olukai has valid way of measuring that,” • 20-29% Lampen-Crowell said. “We all • Yes been feeling the love all around, • 30-40% • No director of marketing Kerry look at our numbers daily, weekly • >40% Konrady said. and monthly, but there are other “It’s anecdotal, but it’s not a ways of measuring how well our *Tenured defined as with the company for greater of 2 years or life of the company **This includes women, minority/previously excluded populations, people with disabilities, and/or one-off: you have a steady stream businesses are doing.” O individuals living in low-income communities. footwearinsight.com September/October 2015 ~ Footwear Insight • 17

AVIA.COM | qUiRky ReTaiL

DELICIOUS SHOE / CHICAGO

A Shoe Boutique on Wheels “I went the truck route precisely because I’m a restless person who doesn’t want to be tied to one spot.”

“I didn’t think guys By Daniel P. Smith occasion, Sedgwick ditched trying to counter the sameness her full-time advertising gig out there and bring as much cared about shoes to or years, Ann Sedgwick and entered the footwear game variety as I can by searching this level, but I’ve been had been traveling to despite having no industry out what is truly unique and proven wrong. One Europe on business. experience. She purchased a different,” Sedgwick says. guy yelled in at me to FAnd for years, the used 26-foot truck, initiated The Delicious Shoe truck is Chicago-based advertising pro wholesale accounts with some stocked with fashion-forward get more trucks.” had been purchasing stylish of the innovative, niche brands styles from brands such as ANN SEDGWICK pairs of shoes during those she had encountered during her Dkode, Audley, King Tartufoli, overseas jaunts, inevitably European travels and launched Hangar, Kudeta, Lisa Tucci receiving compliments and Delicious Shoe, Chicago’s first and Irregular Choice. With inquiries about her footwear roving footwear shop last April. her concierge-style service, from her Windy City peers. “I wanted something that was Sedgwick helps customers find “I absolutely love shoes and fresh and something that gave the footwear that best fits their was always amazed by the me flexibility,” says Sedgwick, individual style. innovative styles I found over who has leveraged her 25 years “I’m looking for styles that in Europe, a variety that just as a creative director to build people will respond to creatively didn’t seem to exist in the States Delicious Shoe into an eye- rather than those that are more and, specifically, in Chicago,” catching enterprise. status symbol,” Sedgwick says, Sedgwick says. “I wondered why noting that her shop’s prices I had to go across the ocean to Rare Finds range from $80-350. find such unique shoes.” Delicious Shoe’s tagline is The novelty of a mobile shoe Earlier this year, Sedgwick “A mobile boutique of rare store, especially one peddling ceased “three-to-four years finds” and Sedgwick makes high-end footwear, has certainly of wondering” and turned an intentional effort to ensure piqued consumers’ interest inspiration into action. the styles she carries are not and Sedgwick calls the truck “a Much to the dismay of some available elsewhere in Chicago. definite conversation starter.” family, friends, colleagues and, “There are a million places and One customer told Sedgwick that admittedly, even herself on ways to purchase shoes, but I’m finding Delicious Shoe had made

20 • Footwear Insight ~ September/October 2015 footwearinsight.com Left to right: Ann Sedgwick at the wheel; inside the truck; and the truck ready to roll.

her dreams come true; another Daddy,” she says. females with some discretionary to co-produce fun sales events. shoe-loving customer jokingly When Sedgwick purchased the income and a decidedly creative, “I think there are a lot of referred to Delicious Shoe as truck, however, she feminized artsy bent. mutual befits that can emerge “the devil” given the convenience the empty, metal-clad interior That said, Sedgwick has been from this type of collaboration,” and rare selection Sedgwick shell. Adding hardwood floors, surprised by the number of male she says. provides. oversized mirrors, wooden customers who peek into her While a brick-and-mortar Yet, the novelty, Sedgwick benches and modular art, the truck despite the fact she has no storefront might seem the long- understands, will eventually truck morphed from gritty to men’s footwear. In fact, she has term goal, Sedgwick largely evaporate. While she’s driving glam. found a small, but passionate rejects that path. Chicago’s only mobile shoe store “Now, the truck is called ‘Big subset of male consumers every “I went the truck route right now, she understands that Momma’ and it looks like a little bit as energized by stylish precisely because I’m a restless reality could change as the city’s boutique inside,” Sedgwick says, footwear as their most devout person who doesn’t want to be truck-based commercial scene adding that the biggest challenge female counterparts. tied to one spot,” she says. continues to swell. has been fitting enough “I didn’t think guys cared Instead, she hopes to continue “That’s why it’s all the more inventory onto the truck – both about shoes to this level, but I’ve embracing the freedom and important I have styles that in selection and size run – to been proven wrong,” Sedgwick flexibility of the mobile concept stand out,” she says, well aware capture every possible sale. admits. “One guy yelled in at me by adding additional trucks to that stellar product and service “Space is definitely one of the to get more trucks.” her fleet to complement the will fuel sustained success. truck’s limitations,” Sedgwick While food trucks in many e-commerce platform she’s admits. cities encountered pushback debuting later this fall. During Driving Big Momma Since Delicious Shoe’s April from brick-and-mortar the winter months, meanwhile, Sedgwick jokes that her truck debut, Sedgwick has peddled restaurants charging that the Sedgwick plans to pursue pop- underwent a sex change when her goods on the streets of hip four-wheeled eateries were up locations in Chicago area she purchased it from a Chicago- Chicago neighborhoods like stealing their business, Sedgwick shopping malls. based entrepreneur who was Bucktown and Wicker Park, reports few run-ins with Chicago “I like the idea of staying using the truck to bring mobile captured space at local street area retailers. In fact, some mobile and nimble and going spin classes to various Chicago festivals and art fairs and rolled brick-and-mortar shops have where the customers are and the area locales. into private parties. She says her invited her to do trunk shows truck allows me to do just that,” “He actually called it Big core clientele is generally older while she’s teamed with others she says. O footwearinsight.com September/October 2015 ~ Footwear Insight • 21 qUiRky ReTaiL

EXTRA BUTTER / NEW YORK

Smooth Like Butter Extra Butter Creative Directors Jason Faustino and Bernie Gross Talk Fresh Footwear and Prime New Projects.

Above, left to right: The exterior of Extra By Suzanne Blecher the value of a mom-and-pop BG: “Everything monochrome Butter’s Lower East Side NYC location; approach.” or color blocked is still moving the shoe wall; movie-themed design; Extra Butter presents adidas Originals What made you get into the retail forward, which has become ZX Trail Mid Scout Leader; and (below) business? You now have two stores. What predictable. Nude seems to a adidas Originals ZX Flux Chief Diver. Jason Faustino: “In 2006 I began types of merchandise do you growing color for tonal sneakers, working for Renarts Footwear carry and who do you target? which is a good change of pace while getting ready to go to JF: “Rockville Centre, our first from the common red, black grad school for psychology. I store, is celebrating its eighth and teal. There’s also a spike was always into sneakers and year in business. It has a very in lifestyle sneakers, however clothing, but Renarts gave me homey vibe with a lot of quirks we’re not seeing new brands immediate hands-on experience and personality. The Manhattan differentiate themselves from running a business. I enjoyed location is bigger and brighter. the older brands that carved out visiting the city every week I love the front entrance movie that market already. If it’s not checking out sneaker boutiques theatre lobby build out. Once you silhouettes and colors, then it has that really took this culture to walk through the curtains you to be your business model or how the next level. To do the same enter a wonderland of sneakers you produce your footwear.” in Long Island, I partnered with and clothing. Both stores carry Renarts owners Ankur and Nick top end lifestyle product from Extra Butter is big on Amin to join forces on launching Nike, Adidas, Reebok, New collaborations. Tell us about Extra Butter.” Balance, Saucony, Asics, Diadora, some of your projects. Bernie Gross: “When I first Vans and Converse. Some of our BG: “Because of our roots on Long met Jay, we’d hit up all of the strongest apparel brands are Island, having a strong beach, pioneer sneaker and streetwear Publish, ICNY and ONLY NY. Our boating and fishing culture, I boutiques. Growing up in New target customers are people into always figured working with a York and having this kind of the newest things in fashion, nautical brand like Sperry at a exposure to the mecca, we technology, music, tv/movie, higher capacity was inevitable. were able to absorb everything culture and food.” More recently we worked closely and analyze strengths and with Adidas to release a capsule weaknesses. I too worked What are the biggest trends called The Vanguard Collection for Renarts and understood you’re seeing in footwear? which epitomizes the ideology of

22 • Footwear Insight ~ September/October 2015 footwearinsight.com “Rockville Centre, our first store, is celebrating its eighth year in business. It has a very homey vibe with a lot of quirks and personality. The Manhattan location is bigger and brighter.” JASON FAUSTINO

pushing boundaries in respective retro releases like Nike Huaraches in specialty retail? BG: “I’d return to design agency fields including deep sea and Prestos. Adidas has also BG: “I think the most frustrating life. In my fantasy world, I’d be exploration, wilderness survival, had a ton of success with newer part could be that the Internet hosting my own cooking show. I'd academics and sports. It launches technology/design franchises like has made everything so call it Burnin’ with Bern, where I in September.” Boost, Tubular, Xeno and Flux. accessible that you lose some shoot the breeze with strangers New Balance always has a super of the luster of embodying the who have chosen random ingredi- Why are consumers so into strong reaction to their Made true form of a boutique. Now ents for me to create impromptu exclusives? in the USA lifestyle products. the consumer is trained to artisanal BBQ dishes.” BG: “When streetwear started, Reebok releases Pump Furys that search for the cheapest option. it was hard to come by these always sell very quickly. Saucony There’s a decreasing audience What is your favorite pair of brands. So few shops carried and Asics sell consistently well, who are committed to being a sneakers? them and the Internet was not the but their collabs remain their loyal follower to a single retailer JF: “My favorites have grown to e-commerce hub it is today. The strongest points.” or brand. I just think once be our collabs; the process of allure to getting into streetwear, you become interested in this working on them from ideation to at least for me, was that it became What is the best part about level of retail and goods, it’s final release is just way too fun. an extension of my search for working in the footwear business? expected to pay a premium or But the shoe that started it all for originality. More recently, the BG: “I think it’s just satisfying the show an allegiance.” me was Andre Agassi's Nike Air craze is derivative of simple appetite for those who are on Tech Challenge II.” supply and demand economics. the hunt for good product and If not working in retail, what BG: “I’m temperamental, but Reselling has become a full- experience. It’s especially exciting would you be doing? I have noticed that I’m highly time entrepreneurship for some when we get to activate releases JF: “If I had my pick of work, it influenced by nostalgia or folks and the yield can be quite for brands and it’s our time to would involve NHL hockey, prefer- wanting to spite what the general lucrative for those who do the shine to really tell the story of the ably the New York Islanders, or sneakerhead audience is into. If hustle right.” product. We usually have some some food company I love. There's I’m really coerced in having to type of event where people can always the dream of working with choose, I’d be able to narrow it What are some of your best- walk away with an experience my favorite movie directors some- down to a favorite shoe model- sellers? and not just a receipt as proof of how. Or I'd go back to social work and that’s the Nike Blazer. To me JF: “Collaboration projects, Jordan purchase.” and working with autistic children. it’s a classic silhouette with clean retros, classic shoes like Stan They introduced me to a world I lines that will see its way through Smiths, Air Force Ones and also What are the biggest challenges grew to love and miss it a lot.” eras and trends.” O footwearinsight.com September/October 2015 ~ Footwear Insight • 23 qUiRky ReTaiL

KITH / BROOKLYN

Visitors to the new Kith location in Brooklyn have their choice of hip sneakers and sweet cereal.

The Sneaker Shop with a Cereal Bar Customers Eat Up More than Just Stylish Footwear and Apparel at Kith Treats.

ith NYC has made its mark over the past II sneakers suspended from the ceiling in a white few years as one of the hipper boutiques in sculpture. Freestanding stainless-steel fixtures create the city. The SoHo location is a haven for the appearance of an “endless corridor” of footwear. K sneakerheads. There are infinity mirrors located behind the cash The man behind Kith, retailer and designer Ronnie wrap and a VIP Room for important, extended “family Fieg, is going a bit outside the box, so to speak, with members” of the brand. Fieg calls the shop an his newly redesigned Brooklyn outpost. Called Kith extension of his lifestyle brand. Treats, the 3,000-square-foot store features several “Back in 2011, we chose the Brooklyn location dramatic merchandising displays, and in perhaps because we felt like the neighborhood needed it,” says its most novel quirk, it also features a 150-square- Fieg. “We also knew that area in Brooklyn was going to foot cereal bar where consumers can mix and match prosper once the Barclays Center was built, which is cereal and sweets, all packaged in a custom designed why we opened a year prior. It’s close to the city, so cereal/sneaker box. the proximity is really cool in regards to our office in Located at 233 Flatbush Avenue in Brooklyn, not SoHo. Brooklyn is coming up, and literally every day far from the Barclays Center, Kith Brooklyn originally there are more and more people moving there. So I opened in 2011, but has been revamped and see an opportunity to educate the Brooklyn consumer reopened as Kith Treats in collaboration with the with great product, and have that same consumer Brooklyn-based design team at Snarkitecture. experience an elevated boutique retail store in a way Not to be mistaken as solely a breakfast spot, that Brooklyn residents have never had before.” Kith Treats features both apparel and footwear. The But the question on everyone’s mind is: Why store is airy and open and shoes are showcased cereal? “Cereal has always been an obsession of behind glass cases. There are 750 cast-Air Jordan mine,” says Fieg, who spent several years working

24 • Footwear Insight ~ September/October 2015 footwearinsight.com National Shoe Retailers Association

America’s Largest Organization Representing Independent Footwear Retailers

Financial Services & Retail Education Webinars Savings Opportunities -RLQLQGXVWU\SURIHVVLRQDOVDQG165$LQOLYH 0HPEHUVKLSJLYHV\RXDFFHVVWRSURJUDPV education seminars discussing topics such as: which directly affect your bottom line. x5HWDLO)LQDQFH 2XUFRVWVDYLQJPHPEHUEHQHILWVLQFOXGH x6HFXULQJ/HDVHV Retail x%DQNRI$PHULFD0HUFKDQW6HUYLFHV x6XFFHVVLRQ3ODQQLQJ Education Credit/Debit Card Processing x6WRUH'HVLJQ WEBINARS x)HG([6KLSSLQJWKURXJK3DUWQHU6KLS x%XVLQHVV9DOXDWLRQ x(0DUNHWLQJYLD&RQVWDQW&RQWDFW xDQGPRUH Peer-to-Peer Networking Enjoy networking opportunities with other independent shoe retailers and vendors at Next Generation conferences throughout the year: Leadership Program x(GXFDWLRQ&RQIHUHQFHVDW)13/$7)250 This program educates owners and successors x165$uV$QQXDO/HDGHUVKLS on how to manage the business transition Conference from one generation Learn what works and what to the next. doesn’t from others in the know.

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Shoe Retailing Today Join NSRA today 2ULJLQDODUWLFOHVDERXW

Creating Signs Customers Will Read p. 8 xBest practices Two Ten Is an Industry-wide Safety Net p. 26 WRHQMR\WKHVHEHQHÀWV Meet the Man Who Oversees Two Ten p. 28 x)RRWZHDUEXVLQHVVWUHQGV of membership, and more! xIndustry trends x7HFKQRORJ\ x/HJLVODWLYHXSGDWHV x)RRWZHDUYHQGRUSURILOHV Visit nsra.org, xIndependent retail member stores, and more or call 800-673-8446. qUiRky ReTaiL

KITH / BROOKLYN, NY

“Cereal has always been an obsession of mine. Growing up, my parents wouldn’t let me eat sugar cereals. So I used to have to eat my friends’ cereal when I would visit their house after school.” RONNIE FIEG

in retail at David Z before opening his own shop. “Growing up, my parents wouldn’t let me eat sugar cereals. So I used to have to eat my friends’ cereal when I would visit their house after school. When I was inside the Brooklyn space, thinking of how we were going to rebuild it, I felt like a light bulb went off. It made sense to have the two side by side to me. The creativity behind Kith Treats [the cereal bar] is using the same creative juices I’ve used on the footwear-end and what I’ve done with Kith as a retail store.” Offerings at the cereal bar include custom cereal mixes from a variety of 24 different flavors (Apple Jacks, Cinnamon Toast Crunch, Cocoa Puffs, Rice Krispies, and Lucky Charms are just a few), five specialty milks and 25 assorted toppings, such as coconut flakes, cookie dough, mini marshmallows, white chocolate chips, and more. Orders of two or more servings (starting at $6) are served in collectible custom one-of-a-kind mini shoeboxes. The first design in the mini shoebox series is from Nike with creative direction by tennis legend Andre Agassi. Apparel and footwear brands carried by Kith range from Acronym and Danner to Jordan, Nike, Stance, Hudson, Red Wing, ASICS, Vans, Timberland, TOMS, Yuketen, Pierre Balmain, John Elliott + Co, Yeezy Season 1 by adidas, Off-White c/o Virgil Abloh, Clockwise from bottom left: Exclusive Nike Fear of God, Just Don, Norse product at Kith; Action Bronson, Kith collabo- rator and Queens-based rapper at the cereal Projects, Y-3, Stampd, the bar; cereal packaging; Kith’s Ronnie Fieg; the Kith brand and more. O store’s Air Jordan sculpture hangs from above.

26 • Footwear Insight ~ September/October 2015 footwearinsight.com WE TURN NEWS INTO INSIGHT

A new digital magazine in a lively format from the most experienced journalistic team in the business. Coverage of the sports specialty marketplace in a succinct insightful manner, delivered to your e-mail box on the first and third Monday of each month. insideinsight.com

INSIDEINSIGHTTM SPORTS. SPECIALTY. RETAIL. BUSINESS.

Charter subscriber trial offer: 5 months/10 issues: $79. 12 months/24 issues: $179. 24 months/48 issues: $249. store.formula4media.com BRANDPROFILE

The Alta USA après ski boot from Khombu.

KHOMBU American Ingenuity

By Mark Sullivan agenda: to make the boots in the United States. “That was something that I and the owners of Eastman, the Mizrachi family, arly this fall, consumers will get their first look really wanted to do,” he says. “We wanted to invest in a town at the result of an ambitious new program from and bring back real jobs to Americans.” Khombu that features après ski boots created For help, McCarty turned to the Munro family, which has in tandem with the United States Ski team. The been making shoes in Arkansas since Munro & Company was boots are made in America. founded in 1972. To help solve that part of the equation, in the Around October 1, Bloomingdale’s, Nordstrom, summer of 2014, McCarty went to one of his Asian factories and DSWE and other stores will begin selling The Alta USA boot. The worked on making some early prototypes. In addition to making development of the Alta women’s boot began about 18 months the boots, the factory made videos and instructional manuals ago when Khombu VP Brandy McCarty began looking for ways on the proper manufacturing techniques. Armed with those to re-launch the brand that had been acquired by the Eastman materials, the Eastman team travelled to Arkansas to conduct Group in late 2013. McCarty says the Alta is the beginning of a few sessions of “boot school,” at which workers in the Munro a program for Khombu that will expand into men’s next year factories were trained to make the Altas. McCarty admits this all and ideally hit critical mass around the time of the 2018 Winter happened “crazy quick,” and by October of last year the first 20 Olympics in South Korea. pairs rolled off the new assembly line. In his early research on the brand, McCarty discovered that From November, 2014 through April 1 of 2015, production Khombu had a relationship as supplier of après ski boots to the ramped up, and McCarty projects the factory will make 5,000 U.S. Ski team. “It was very transactional,” he says. “We supplied pairs this year, which will retail at $130. The goal is to double them with boots and promoted it a little, but that was it.” the number of pairs in 2016 and then double it again in 2017. The McCarty had his first meeting with the ski team at the SIA first men’s boot will ship in 2016 and Khombu is also working Show in January, 2014 and broached the idea of talking to the on the next generation of product that will feature a lightweight athletes and seeing what they liked and disliked about the Vibram outsole. By the time of the 2018 Winter Olympics, product they had been receiving. McCarty hopes the program is in full bloom. The skiers had very specific feedback that they were eager In addition to re-establishing Khombu as a major player in to share. Of course the boots needed to be waterproof and the boot business and creating jobs in Arkansas, McCarty has keep their feet warm in temperatures that reached 20 below. another goal. Khombu will donate a percentage of all sales from They also needed slip resistant outsoles and needed the boots the collection to the U.S. Ski Team Foundation for athletes to to be lightweight and able to fit in packs they brought to the train and compete. “It costs an athlete $100,000 a year to train mountains with them. and the government covers only 20 percent of that, so any “That was the biggest take away from them,” McCarty recalls. contribution we make will be meaningful.” “It never occurred to me that the boots needed to be able to fit For Khombu, the payoff could come at The 2018 Olympics into packs.” when skiers stand on the medal podium in boots that were made Armed with his product brief, McCarty set out on his second in America. O

28 • Footwear Insight ~ September/October 2015 footwearinsight.com IS LOOKING FOR THE INDEPENDENT RETAILERS THAT OFFER THE BEST SERVICE IN THE COUNTRY

Second Annual THE GOLD MEDAL SERVICE AWARDS

The Gold Medal Service Awards program was created by Formula4Media to seek out and recognize the independent shoe stores that offer the best customer service in America. The Gold Medal Awards will define what constitutes great customer service through a strict set of criteria developed by some of the best stores in the country. Winning stores will be acknowledged at an awards ceremony in June 2016 and featured in the May/June 2016 issue of Footwear Insight. Stores will also receive window stickers to promote the recognition to their customers and a special toolkit so they can promote it to their entire community through social media.

How will stores be rated? accepted and should be sent to associates. Copies of the criteria in a special Franklin Resource Group, one of the top Christina Henderson. pocket sized format can be obtained by Interested? retail merchandising companies in the U.S. e-mailing Mark Sullivan. Here’s how will “mystery shop” these stores, buy a pair of What happens after a store is nominated? your store can be shoes and rate them on everything from how Nominations are evaluated and stores What happens if my store is selected as one considered. they were greeted to the fitting process, all are then mystery shopped by Franklin of the 50 Gold Medal Service Winners? the way through to checkout. Resource Group using a 15-step evaluation You will be notified by e-mail before process developed in conjunction with top the results are published in Footwear Who is eligible? independent shoe store owners based on their Insight. All stores that are selected will All independently owned shoe stores and own training policies and programs. Mystery be recognized in the magazine and at an regional chains that have a significant shoe shopping will take place Spring 2016. awards ceremony in June 2016. They will business. National chains are not eligible. also receive a customized press release How can I prepare my store to be mystery they can distribute to media in their local How can my store get nominated? shopped and rated? market and window decals that will allow Any industry member can nominate Footwear Insight encourages stores to them to promote the recognition all year a store. Nominations are now being review the criteria and share with their sales long and in their advertising.

Any stores with questions about The Gold Medal Awards should contact Mark Sullivan at [email protected] Nominations should be sent to Christina Henderson at [email protected] TRENDSDESIGN

As Materials and Manufacturing Go to the Next Level, Consumers Reap the Benefits / By Cregg Weinmann EVOLUTION Athletic footwear development tends to cycle through phases, depending upon advances in materials, manufacturing techniques, and the design process. The current state of the industry is at a juncture of all three, as construction techniques are shifting, new applications of materials are developing and becoming widely available, and a shift in thinking about design is poised to take

Polyurethane is making a to the longevity of our cushioning Polyurethane consistently affords Brooks on the compound side but I comeback as a midsole material. while also adding a degree of the most comfort, and has always can tell you that we’re working with Has this influenced your choices? responsiveness and protection from resulted in a high degree of some amazing new materials that the elements.” quality and durability. Recent will allow us to take the running “Midsole cushioning is always an Jim Monahan, President, 361 Degrees advancements to lower density experience to a whole new level of area of interest and research— while maintaining or even improving adaptability and personalization.” finding ways to break through “There have been some good cushioning, combined with high Pete Humphrey, Vice President of existing paradigms of soft vs. developments in lighter weight PU durability are allowing us to use Research and Development, Brooks resilient vs. durable vs. stable is lately, such that it is approaching polyurethane as a replacement to always going to be a priority for the weight of EVA. It still doesn’t EVA in midsoles, and to go even The design continuum seems to be us as a performance footwear have the resilience qualities of EVA, further by creating entire sole units freer than it was years ago. How brand. We are constantly looking but in certain outdoor products it is with an integrated outsole and has this impacted you as a brand? at a variety of materials and are perfectly suited.” footbed.” not being constrained by the Josh Fairchilds, VP of Product and Dan Richard, Owner and Creative “Young designers coming out of old thinking of either EVA or Marketing, Oboz Footwear Director, Daniel Richard Design LLC some of the top design schools Polyurethane for midsole foams.” such as Pratt Institute and RISD Fritz Taylor, VP Performance “Our use of polyurethane, until “We see PU showing up for a couple have a lot more resources at their Footwear, Under Armour recently, has been within the casual, of different reasons. It has always fingertips and the flexibility to think hiking, and service shoe markets. had some pretty amazing physical outside the box compared with their “For decades PU has been known We have always appreciated the characteristics that can be applied predecessors. Many of the younger for durability and shock absorption durability and cushioning benefits to running and athletic shoes and designers that I have worked properties. Many brands are using of polyurethane, however have been a lot of the past issues, like weight, with recently seem to have the it today as an additive in their concerned with weight and cost. have been engineered out. PU also innate ability to look at ideas more midsole foam blends. For 361 we Due to continuous advancements has some manufacturing upsides intrinsically rather than pictorially. chose to use it as a protective in compounds which now produce that allow the more compound and We have seen a remarkable coating on most of our QUIKFOAM cost effective and lighter weight process focused brands to really evolution in athletic footwear design styles. We find, in testing, that CPU parts we are now considering the take advantage of it. I can’t speak over the past 5-10 years. However (coated polyurethane) adds 3-5% use of PU across all categories. specifically to what we are doing at the challenge remains to make these concepts manufacturable, efficient and aligned with company cost parameters.” PUMA IGNITE Gary Siriano, Principal, Advanced Footwear Consulting, LLC

Puma is turning heads with a next generation polyurethane midsole “I am not sure if design is more free material as well as more relevant design. today but styling has become more talked about than previously. Mainly due to labor costs increasing at an accelerated rate, designs have become cleaner with fewer pieces. The days of bits and pieces with embosses and prints on each small overlay are over. The page has turned and for us it’s a great thing. You think about adidas and your mind’s eye sees a classic with few, if any, unnecessary elements. Not unlike casual shoes that are also

30 • Footwear Insight ~ September/October 2015 footwearinsight.com REVOLUTION advantage of these changes and developments. The catalyst may be the reinvention of a standby material, polyurethane foam. But the maturing manufacturing process and a shift in design thinking is pushing the process in a new direction, with the end consumer as the beneficiary. Here are some questions and answers with some of the thought leaders on the edge of these new developments.

clean without over-embellishments, but you cannot stop change so you There are many cases when that more seamless upper construction they tend to take on a more evolve or die. Besides, pushing cost reduction comes at a price in and a more crafted overall fashionable aesthetic. Also our for ‘new’ and learning ‘new’ is fun performance. At 361 we will find finish. The revolution in footwear assessment tools are better than and rewarding. We’ve got better other ways to lower costs before manufacturing is just starting—it ever so when we can get beautiful assessment tools like Aramis, a 3D we will sacrifice the performance will absolutely re-shape footwear running shoes that perform optical optimization tool used in features of our products.” over the next five years.” beautifully, it’s a win for us as well the Aerospace Industry, so our new Jim Monahan, President, 361 Degrees Fritz Taylor, VP Performance as the runners.” design philosophy is backed by real, Footwear, Under Armour Mikal Peveto Senior Director Future relevant tools.” “Our construction methods have Running, adidas Mikal Peveto, Senior Director Future nothing but upside, we control all “The basic principles of shoe Running, adidas of the aspects of production, and construction remain the same, but “As a new brand and not a shoe we are 100 percent made in the we are certainly seeing new trends industry person I just went at it in “The times they are a changin’. USA. For us the gain is in improved in finish work.” my own way. I was able to use the Because of climbing manufacturing expertise and craftsmanship as we Josh Fairchilds, VP of Product and newest modeling tools and software costs worldwide, the industry is train our workforce. When labor is Marketing, Oboz Footwear that were until recently very cost constantly searching for ways your biggest cost component you prohibitive and cumbersome at to simplify production while still have the luxury of using quality raw “Our production technique, best. Today’s 3D world is accessible building cutting edge performance materials for construction.” direct-attached PU is very efficient to almost everyone. It’s truly footwear. Today many brands, Everett Carson, President, already. But in the last few years exciting where this could take us.” in some cases 361 included, are Carson Footwear this technology has become Everett Carson, President, moving to reduce the number of more advanced and innovative. Carson Footwear components and manufacturing “Changes in footwear manufacturing Today there are new possibilities steps in order to keep costs down. are happening rapidly and I think like more progressive design “There is a heightened consumer But, again, we will not do that while we are just seeing the early phase shapes, cushioning inserts, lighter appreciation of design that comes negatively impacting performance. of how it can help us create better constructions, and slimmer from an expectation that good Single density midsoles are shoes. Some of the new machinery stabilizer shanks.” design can solve problems and certainly less expensive than multi- today is so precise that it can Alex Nicolai, Head of Design & create better experiences and material, multi-density midsoles. absolutely help us create better fit, Development, Lowa value. I don’t think this is unique to athletic footwear. We are seeing the same consumer-driven trend across lots of product types.” CARSON IGUANA RACER Fritz Taylor, VP Performance Footwear, Under Armour The Iguana Racer from upstart Carson Footwear has eye-catching sublimated graphics and single “Design is playing a bigger role shot polyurethane midsole/outersoles. now. In the future it will be even more important. Additionally, sustainability will become a bigger factor in the future too.” Alex Nicolai, Head of Design & Development, Lowa

Are construction techniques improving in their efficiency?

“Pushing the envelope and changing a philosophy is always challenging

footwearinsight.com September/October 2015 ~ Footwear Insight • 31 TRENDSDESIGN EVOLUTION REVOLUTION

The dimpled Boost foam launched factories are generally better places component of evolved standards.” the industry into a materials to work than they were in the past. Dan Richard, Owner and Creative scramble, which has influenced all Director, Daniel Richard Design LLC of the top running brands. Some factories have become more technical, others are not. However the greater balance have evolved “It’s a two edge sword when it into becoming a better and healthier comes to the factory work force. place to work.” Traditional athletic footwear con- Dan Richard, Owner and Creative struction, over the last 30 years, Director, Daniel Richard Design LLC required human hands to handle the shoe as much as 300-plus times “Of course. Did the capabilities of during the various phases of con- factories and workers here in the struction. Technology will definitely ADIDAS ULTRA BOOST U.S. and abroad get more technical produce a more consistent product when they robotized? Yes, the from a QC stand point. Is it going “The world of manufacturing and innovation and for runners. New equipment in factories is getting to perform better for the end-user? design is definitely changing. At technologies and new processes are ever more technical and the work That depends on the team concept- Brooks, we want to be the number challenging the status quo. Just like force needed to run that equipment ing, designing, developing, testing one choice for runners worldwide many other industries, the footwear need different skill sets to operate and producing it.” and we intend to earn their trust by world is investing in the future with that equipment.” Jim Monahan, President, 361 Degrees building the highest quality prod- new machines, technologies and Jim Monahan, President, 361 Degrees uct that suits their needs. From processes that push manufacturing “Absolutely, but until the big brands there we look at how we can make into a new era.” “Finding and retaining a talented own their own factories they will not footwear as efficiently as possible, Pete Humphrey, Vice President of labor force is always an on-going be able to fully utilize the technolo- reduce our footprint and offset Research and Development, Brooks issue for factories. As a result we gy that has emerged. There are bits some of the manufacturing cost are working with them to ramp-up and pieces of technology showing increases most all footwear manu- “There is more investment in ways to automate. The trend toward up on the market but most seem like facturers have faced during the past machinery and that is enabling us automation is enabling us to experi- they need a few more rounds of test- few years. We have some amazing to move beyond the traditional ment with new ways to solve old ing. Part of the reason I got into this partnerships and all are dedicated stitching line.” problems and craft better shoes.” is because I thought there was a lot to this. With a quality filter as high Josh Fairchilds, VP of Product and Fritz Taylor, VP Performance of room for improvement. You can as ours, implementation is some- Marketing, Oboz Footwear Footwear, Under Armour ask just about anybody if they love times a little slower than we’d like, their shoes and they will have one but in the end we know that we are “Yes. New technologies like Are we on the brink of higher stan- complaint or another. Large brands delivering the best product possible seamless or knitted uppers were dards and possibilities with materi- have looked for profits not a better and that’s what matters most.” developed in the last few years, als, design, and construction that product, they want to reduce labor Pete Humphrey, Vice President of thereby the level of innovation in will better serve the consumer? to gain profit not a better product or Research and Development, Brooks production has elevated and at the consumer experience. You can bet same time efficiency has improved.” “Yes. Shoes will become faster, my focus is on my consumer and a Have the capabilities of the facto- Alex Nicolai, Head of Design & better, stronger, smarter and more better product and a better experi- ries and the workers gotten more Development, Lowa personalized. All beneficial to ence. My mission is really to chal- technical? runners. The biggest shift will be lenge the status quo.” “Factories continue to specialize, in manufacturing. Materials and Everett Carson, President, Carson “Absolutely yes, and we pay more however manufacturing in general constructions will follow suit. Design Footwear for it. But you cannot apply yester- has evolved and become cleaner already has changed. Everything day’s rules to today’s reality.” and more efficient. I believe that was formerly (currently) made “At Brooks one of our focuses Mikal Peveto Senior Director Future factories are much more aware of in mass will become smaller/right in R&D has included [putting] Running, adidas waste, and are producing shoes with sized and with less waste.” resources into our materials and we fewer chemicals and less energy Mikal Peveto Senior Director Future are seeing it pay off. From the time “Yes, and it’s a great thing for overall. I have also observed that Running, adidas Jerry Turner first introduced EVA into running to the advent of Mogo, Polyurethane coats the Quikfoam “Standards are changing. There Bio Mogo and DNA, Brooks has been layer of the midsole (the aqua- remains an appreciation for shoe- dedicated to enhancing the running colored portion), to provide it with making and we need to be sure that experience. Fit, Feel and Ride are the improved dampening properties. it’s passed on from generation to foundation of a great running shoe generation. At the same time, there and making sure the runner gets is a growing demand for industrial the absolute best we have to offer is design and an expectation to deliver our top priority. I see a future where consumer solutions that are leading runners will have the opportunity to new standards. Recently I read to personalize the unique running that southeast China expects to grow experience they want to have, and by adding over 300,000 industrial shoes and materials will adapt to design positions within five to 10 their biomechanical needs to keep years. This doesn’t necessarily insure them running happy.” higher standards but it will likely lead Pete Humphrey, Vice President of 361 DEGREES SPIRE to greater competition which is one Research and Development, Brooks O

32 • Footwear Insight ~ September/October 2015 footwearinsight.com It’s our big seven announcement. And it’s big news. Seven issues of Footwear Insight starting January 2016.

2016 FEATURES January: Outdoor Lifestyle February: The New Comfort Consumer Mar/Apr: The Walking Issue May/Jun: Women’s Athletic & Active Lifestyle Jul/Aug: Outdoor Lifestyle & Performance Sep/Oct: Women’s Comfort Nov/Dec: Workplace Footwear

FOR MORE INFORMATION Jeff Nott, Publisher [email protected] 516-305-4711 or your account executive

FOOTWEARINSIGHT.COM GOODY TWO SHOES LINESWELIKE

BRANDS THAT GIVE BACK. AND LOOK COOL, TO BOOT. When Blake Mycoskie launched his TOMS Shoes brand back in 2006, the charitable angle— one shoe for a child in need for every shoe sold—was not only novel and charitable, but also influential. TOMS has shown that a charitable business model can succeed, from the ground up. Here’s a look at a few other brands whose products not only look cool, but also do some cool things for others, too.

INKKAS: The brand partners with Trees for the Future, a nonprofit that works with disadvantaged communities around the world to help increase access to sustainable agribusiness and prevent illegal deforestation. The Inkkas Zip Tops feature tonal woven paneling. Zip Top, MSRP $79.

ALICE + WHITTLES: The upstart company focuses on reductivist design and transparent manufacturing practices. They work with global and local NGOs and the Fair Rubber Association, aiming to follow production all the way back to the raw materials. Black Rubber Ankle Boot, MSRP $180.

ETNIES: The brand recently hit the milestone of one million trees in its Buy a Shoe, Plant a Tree program. Every Shoe Plants a Tree in 2015, with each purchase resulting in a tree planted in the rainforest, representing that individual’s contribution and commitment to the planet. Women’s Scout, MSRP $59.99.

GURUS: Buy a pair of Gurus sandals, and the company plants a tree. Gurus is another brand that partners with Trees for the Future—the non-profit plants trees in rural communities in the developing world, enabling them to restore their environment, grow more food and build a sustainable future. Sandal, MSRP $23-$35.

FREEWATERS: Each pair of Freewaters is a step towards clean drinking water. One percent of gross sales support grassroots clean drinking water projects. To date the brand has funded 20 wells in Kenya along with seven filtration systems and one rain catchment in Haiti. Sky Trainer, MSRP $75.

34 • Footwear Insight ~ September/October 2015 footwearinsight.com

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