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Yosemite National Park Rock Climbing

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Yosemite National Park Rock Climbing Yosemite National Park Rock Climbing Welcome! Rock climbing in the United States has its roots in Yosemite, and it remains one of the world’s greatest climbing areas. Camp 4 in Yosemite Valley is even listed on the National Register of Historic Places for its significant Tuolumne association with the growth and development of rock climbing. The park is Meadows not just a climber’s playground—its walls and crags are an integral part of a larger ecosystem, most of which are protected as Congressionally-designated Yosemite Valley Wilderness for people to enjoy in a natural state for generations to come. As the number of climbers visiting the park has increased throughout the years, the impacts of climbing have become more obvious. Many of these impacts can be eliminated or greatly reduced by following the practices outlined in this brochure—ensuring that Yosemite’s high-quality climbing While climbing areas can be found throughout the park, Yosemite’s most popular will remain intact and accessible for years to come. For more information, climbing areas are concentrated in Yosemite Valley and Tuolumne Meadows. call 209/372-0360 or visit www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbing.htm. chaefer | www.mikeylikesrocks.com S Tom Frost, Royal Robbins, and Yvon Chouinard on the first ascent Frost. courtesy Tom Photo by Chuck Pratt. Provided FISHCRACK AT CASCADE FALLS (5.12b) Photo courtesy Mikey of the North American Wall in 1964 Multi-Day Climbing Ő9+.&'40'552'4/+65Although most of Yosemite’s walls are within designated Wilderness, permits are not required for nights spent on multi-day, big wall routes. A permit for overnight use is required in all other Wilderness zones. Visit www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/wildpermits.htm or call 209/372-0740 for more information and reservations. Forty percent of available permits are held on a first-come, first-served basis. These permits become available at Wilderness Centers in the park one day before you plan to leave for your trip. When camping in the wilderness, all applicable rules must be followed— carry out all trash, store food in bear canisters, build campfires only in established fire rings, bury human waste 6-8 inches underground or pack it out, camp and wash at least 100 feet from trails and water sources, and leave no trace. Ő%#/2+0) Camping at the base of any wall in Yosemite Valley—including El Capitan—is prohibited. Camping at the base of Half Dome and other backcountry walls is allowed with a valid permit. Additionally, climbers often stay in Camp 4, open all year on a first-come, first-served basis. Visit www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/campground.htm for more information on campgrounds in the park. CHUCK PRATT RAPELLING SALATHE WALL, 1961 Frost Photo courtesy Tom Ő2#4-+0)(14/7.6+&#;%.+/$5 Parking overnight for multi-day routes is permitted at the El Capitan crossover or El Capitan meadow (see map). For Half Dome overnights, park in the trailhead parking past Curry Village. Ő%.+/$+0)+05647%6+10)7+&'5'48+%')'#4 274%*#5'Visit the Yosemite Mountaineering School and Mountain Shop in Yosemite Valley or Tuolumne (see map). Call 209/372-8344 or THE BATHROOM “FACILITIES” visit www.yosemitemountaineering.com for Őŋ8'46+%#.4'.+'(Ō *7/#09#56' When information on rates and schedules. attempting a multi-day climb, you are required to pack out your human waste and dispose of it properly. Use a “poop tube” or container for transporting your waste. When climbers leave unsanitary waste behind on ledges or toss it off the wall, it’s an eyesore, a health and safety concern, and downright gross. Here are a few tips for vertical relief: Ő)QVQVJGDCVJTQQOKPCRCRGTDCIQTKPC prefabricated human waste disposal bag like Wagbags or Restops and then put that bag in a container to carry off the cliff. Ő%CTT[[QWTEQPVCKPGTFQYPYKVJ[QWCPF empty it into a pit toilet like those at the base lse of the East Ledges descent from El Capitan. E incoln Do not attempt to drop plastic bags into pit L toilets because they clog the pumps used to empty the toilets. OVERNIGHT ON EL CAPITAN Photo courtesy Slacklining Protect trees from slacklines by placing Slacklines must not be padding between the tree and the rope constructed on oak trees The National Park Service worked with local “slackers” to create a slackline policy: Ő$NCEMQCMRQRWNCVKQPUKP;QUGOKVG8CNNG[ appear to be declining. Slacklines must not be constructed on oak trees. Ő#NNNKPGUOWUVDGRTQRGTN[RCFFGFVQRTQVGEV trees. There are many ways to pad and protect the anchor trees: carpet, sticks, sleeping pads, haul bags, and clothing. Check periodically to be sure that your tree protection is working. Ő.KPGUOC[TGOCKPKPRNCEGYKVJKPƆƬƬHGGVQH the Camp 4 boundary for the duration of the owner’s stay and must be tagged with the chaefer | www.mikeylikesrocks.com S owner’s name and contact information. Ő#NNNKPGUEQPUVTWEVGFQWVUKFG%CORƘOWUV be removed when not in use. Ő.KPGUOWUVPQVDGCVVCEJGFVQOCPOCFG SLACKLINING AT CAMP 4 Photo courtesy Mikey structures such as bridges. Bouldering There are thousands of boulder problems throughout the park. As bouldering grows in popularity, more boulders are being developed. Help reduce bouldering impacts by doing the following: Ő(QNNQYGUVCDNKUJGF approach trails when CHALK LEAVES hiking to bouldering areas. UNNATURAL MARKINGS Ő0GXGTEWVQTDTGCMVTGGNKODUTGOQXG lichen, or damage vegetation to establish a bouldering route. Ő-GGRDQWNFGTKPICTGCUENGCP2KEMWRCPF pack out trash—including cigarette butts. Ő$QWNFGTKPIRCFUOC[MKNNHTCIKNGRNCPVNKHG Try to find a different boulder problem if the landing isn’t on durable ground free of vegetation. chaefer | www.mikeylikesrocks.com S Ő/KPKOK\GEJCNMWUGCPFENGCPQHHEJCNMGF holds when possible, especially on overhung routes that rain won’t clean. If you must tick holds, clean the marks when you’re done. MIDNIGHT LIGHTNING (V9), COLUMBIA BOULDER AT CAMP 4 Photo courtesy Mikey Minimize Your Climbing Impacts ABANDONED ROPES, WEBBING, PERMANENT SCARS CREATED USE OF MOTORIZED POWER HAND DRILLING PROTECTION BOLTS IS AND CORD FROM EL CAPITAN FROM HAMMERING PITONS DRILLS IS PROHIBITED PERMITTED. PLEASE USE DISCRETION! AVOID CREATING UNINTENDED DON’T LEAVE TRASH FOR RESIST THE TEMPTATION TO AN EXAMPLE OF SYSTEMATIC TRAILS LIKE THIS ONE OTHERS TO CLEAN UP REMOVE PLANT LIFE FROM CRACKS LICHEN REMOVAL Ő%.'#0%.+/$+0)Most of Yosemite’s climbing areas are in Ő$ 1.6+0)21.+%; Currently climbers may hand drill protection designated Wilderness and accordingly must remain “with or anchor bolts. The use of motorized power drills are the imprint of man’s work substantially unnoticeable.” Please prohibited. When you place a new bolt, keep in mind that you respect “clean climbing” ethics throughout Yosemite. Avoid are permanently altering the rock. If proper discretion is not nailing whenever possible and don’t drill new holes or chisel used, this policy may change. gear placements. Never fabricate holds or change the nature of established climbs. Ő0 '94176'5If planning a new route, take the time to talk to the local Yosemite’s climbing community and become familiar with Ő# $#0&10'&2412'46; Property left unattended for longer than the history of the area. New routes have a profound impact on 24 hours can be impounded. If it is impractical to return to the environment around the route through vegetation loss, fixed ropes within 24 hours, leave ropes and equipment in place erosion at the base of climbs, disturbing animal habitat, and only as long as you are actively using them. Label equipment, permanent bolts left behind. There are thousands of established ropes, and water bottles with your contact information to avoid routes in Yosemite—consider climbing these instead of creating removal. new ones! Ő7 5'':+56+0)#2241#%*64#+.5Stick to signed or obvious Ő) #4&'0+0)Intentionally removing plant life is not permitted approach trails in order to avoid creating new, unintended trails in Yosemite. Serious resource damage can be caused by that may confuse others, cause soil erosion, and vegetation loss. “gardening” to establish new routes or boulder problems. Ő(KZGF4QRGUThe National Park Service (NPS) discourages Ő2416'%6.+%*'0 Yosemite’s granite walls and boulders are the use of fixed ropes. If you fix ropes, only do so immediately covered in a lifeform called lichens. Lichens give the rock its before beginning your ascent, and remove once committed to streaked and blackened colors. They tend to grow at a slow the route. If you plan to return to a project regularly, leave your rate, may be thousands of years old, and are an important part ropes in place only when you are actively working the route. Do of the ecosystem. Protect lichens by climbing on established not leave ropes or gear on popular routes—this takes away from routes, faces, and boulders where lichens have not established the experience of other climbers. themselves. Őŋ'UVCDNKUJGFŌ(KZGF4QRGU4QWVGURopes found below Ő6 4#5*All trash must be carried down from the cliff and Heart Ledges, East Ledges, and the Slabs approach to Half disposed off appropriately. It is illegal to throw anything off Dome are not maintained or condoned by the NPS. Do not Yosemite’s cliffs. Even small things thrown from the wall can expect these ropes to be in place, and be prepared to climb or potentially injure people below. If you pack it in, pack it out. descend without them. Ő(11&5614#)' Do not leave any food, drinks, toiletries, or trash at the base of the wall—bears seek food left by climbers. For multi-day climbs, food and scented items must be stored in a bear-resistant canister or hung at least 50 feet off the ground on 5.9 or harder climbing. If you can reach your food without climbing gear, it is not stored correctly.
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