Letters from Mr. G. W. Hayward on His Explorations in Gilgit and Yassin Author(S): George W

Letters from Mr. G. W. Hayward on His Explorations in Gilgit and Yassin Author(s): George W. Hayward Source: Journal of the Royal Geographical Society of London, Vol. 41 (1871), pp. 1-46 Published by: Wiley on behalf of The Royal Geographical Society (with the Institute of British Geographers) Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/3698053 . Accessed: 24/06/2014 23:49

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BEFORE THE

ROYAL GEOGRAPHICALSOCIETY

DURING THE SESSION 1870-71.

[FORMING VOL. XLI. OF THE SOCIETY'SJOURNAL. PUBLISHEDJULY 1st, 1872.]

I.-Letters from Mr. G. W. HAYWARDon his Explorationsin Gilgit and Yassin. Read, November 15, 1870.

1. LETTER FROM MR. G. W. HAYWARD TO COLONEL SHOWERS.

" Camp Roshan, between Gilgit and Yassin, " MY DEAR COLONEL SHOWERS, " 17th February, 1870. " As you are good enough to take an interest in the exploring expedition to the Pamir, and expressed a wish to hear of my progress by Gilgit, I am glad to be able to let you know that I am on the point of entering Yassin, which place is only some 12 miles distant from my present camp. Some delay was experienced in Gilgit, and an advance to Yassin was for some time doubtful; but at length a favourable answer was received to my application to Meer Wulli Khan, the chief of the country, to be allowed to visit Yassin. He has sent an official to escort me in, and comes out himself to-morrow morning to meet me en route. Judging from his letter and friendly expressions, a favourable reception seems certain. He is related by marriage to Aman-i-Moolk, the chief of Chitral, and if I can obtain the latter's goodwill through Meer Wulli Khan, there should be no great difficulty in penetrating to the Karakul. Should the Yassin chief further my views, and render assistance as far as Wakhan, it will not be imperative to visit Chitral, since his vakeel mentions a very good route leading direct from Yassin VOL. XLI. B

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Lp7 Soct bryJohrXurraoy,Xlbgnarle Steet;.];ondonl871. 2 HAYWARD'S Lettersowl his Explorations via the DarkotePass to Gujal in the basin of the Osus, thence to Shignan, Roshnan, Derwaz, Solab, lIissar, and Shahr-i- Sabz. This route entirely avoiclsChitral. After crossing the pass at the head of the Yassin Talley, it wotlldappear that one gets into a valley givirlg exit to one of the branchesof the Upper Osus. A road branches to the east w7ic6Sarikol, to Yarkand,and tlle direct roactleads down into Shignan. Our rlapSnaust be very faulty in t.heirdelineations of the country about the Pamir and the junction of the Hindu-Kush and S:arakoramchaiils. The watershed between Wakhan and Sarikolmust be lnore to the eastwald than is represellted,for the passes from the head of Yassin and the Gilgit River lead into tlle basin of the Oxus, and not ito the Sarikol district; as Yarkandand :@ashgarare rnoreto the eastwatdthan given in our maps,sothe eastern crestof the Palnir range should be foundto correspond,and I beliese it will be found to follow a meridian of about 75° of east longitude. There appears, however,to be no probabilityof eSecting a:nimmedia$e aclvance beyondYassin, as the passes are deep in snow,and will not be open for two or three months. After arran(ringwith the Yassin chief for the onvard jOUtIle77, it will be advisableto retutn to Gilgit, or perhapseven to liashlair, until the road is open, for it wouldbe impolitic to lingel ill such risky ground close to Chitral,the goodwillof wllosechief cannotas yet be depended upon. " Gilrit itself is a place of some 200 houses, situate on the right bank of the river, rising in tvo blanches in the antle fozed by the julletion of the Kalakoran and Hindu-Kush ranges,and joillinCthe ludus near Boonji. It is in lat. 35° 55' 2" N., long. 74° 22' E.n and 5025 feet aboxTethe se£z. 'TheKash- mir autlloritieshave a large fort occupied by some 900 men, commandingthe valley, and the Maharajah'sterritory may be said to end at Gahkuch,some 24 miles beyond,in the *lirection of Yassill. They are not on the best of terms with the Hunza- Nagar and Yassin people, whose territoriesthey hase several times invaded,but they have invariablybeen driven back after sufferint,lleavy losses. Hlluza itself appearsto be impregnable to tilem, on account of the difficult apploach tllrough the mountainouscountrv. They have twice attemptedit, but have fled back to Gilgit precipitately, and suffered heavily. 'llhe Hunza tribe, mustering about 700 to 800 fighting men, successfullv defend the nalrosYpathway and roll down rocks upon their foes. A habitual and collstallt feud has thus been engendered;for the tribes, beint, to a man rigid Mahomedans, legard with no fiiendly eyes the Hindus, to which c£lstenlost

This content downloaded from 91.229.229.162 on Tue, 24 Jun 2014 23:49:13 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions in Gilyit and Yassin. 3 of the Kashmir troops belong. It is probable that the Kash- mir troops will again advance to the head of the valleys, and endeavour to annex Hunza and Yassin, or will have to retire to their natural frontier the Indus. They will hardly be able to hold Hunza should they seize it, for they have tried the onward movement and have even reached Yassin, but have been driven back after burning and plundering as many villages as they were able. " The inhabitants of Dardistan, in which may be included Gilgit, Chilas, Hunza-Nagar, Dilail, and Upper Chitral, are a fine, good-looking, athletic race, and the difference of race is at once perceived on crossing the Indus. Light and dark brown hair, with grey, hazel, and often blue eyes, are seen. The women have a more English cast of countenance than any I have yet seen in Asia. Black hair is the exception amongst them, light-brown locks prevailing. The country, such as is under cultivation, is fertile and productive, but the population is scanty. Pray excuse a somewhat hurried note, as I am much pressed for time, and remain, "Yours very truly, " GEORGEW. HAYWARD."

2. LETTER FROMMR. G W.. AYWARDTO SIR RODERICKI. MURCHISON.

"Camp, Yassin, 14th March, 1870. "CMY DEAR SIR RODERICK MURCHISON, " It is with much pleasure I find myself able to address you from Yassin, which place I have safely reached from Gilgit. "In order to explain exactly the amount of progress made up to date, it is necessary to briefly mention what I have been doing during the winter months. "After leaving Kashmir last year, I marched steadily to Gilgit via Skardo and the Indus valley. The representations made to me by the Maharajah of Kashmir's officials, of the state of the Gilgit frontier, offered little hope of my being able to penetrate to the Pamir Steppe by this route; but arrived at Gilgit, I found matters not nearly so hopeless as I had been led to anticipate. It was at once apparent the Maharajah'sofficials in Gilgit were anything but pleased at the appearance of an Englishman on that frontier, with the ostensible intention of penetrating further, to do which it would be imperative to make friends of the different tribes, their enemies. And in this has B2

This content downloaded from 91.229.229.162 on Tue, 24 Jun 2014 23:49:13 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions 4 HAYWARD'S Letters on his Exploratiolns lain the great difficulty,-to go through either hostile camp, as it were, and still keep friends with both. I sent presents and a letter to Meer Wulli Khan, the Yassin chief, asking to be allowed to visit his country, feeling sure that if they would but let me come on, I should succeed in winning their goodwill. At first the Yassin people were excessively suspicious as to the motives of an Englishman wishing to visit a country, where, I believe, no European has ever been before, and no doubt were inclined to connect my presence in Gilgit with some further aggression on the part of the Maharajahof Kashmir. However, the chief decided to let me come; and I can only say that I have been most well received and hospitably treated. I have now just returned from an exploring expedition up to near the Darkote Pass, leading over into Wakhan and the basin of the Oxus, as well as to the foot of the Moshabur Pass leading over into the Mastuch and Chitral valleys. Both passes are choked with snow, and will be impracticable for laden animals for two or three months yet, while the Pamir Steppe itself can scarcely be free from snow until the summer is well advanced, perhaps not before the end of June. "I may mention my having received two apparently friendly letters from Raja Anan-i-Moolk, the ruler of Chitral, expressing pleasure at my having made the acquaintance of Meer Wulli Khan, the Yassin chief, his son-in-law, and hoping I will visit Chitral, in which case he offers to do his best to forwardmy onwardjourney to Badakhshan or Jellalabad. There is reason, however, to be suspicious of the sincerity of his intentions. The tribes here - that is, the inhabitants of Chitral, Yassin, and Hunza-entertain the most bitter feelings of enmity against the Maharajah's rule in Gilgit, and the Chitral ruler would probably like to get an Englishman into his power, to be able to play him off against the aggressions of the Dogras in the Gilgit Valley. The Yassin chief; at any rate, has begged me not to think of going into Chitral at present. "I have explored nearly all the valleys, in the basin of the Yassin and Gilgit rivers, and the geographical features which I have already discovered may be said to be comprised in the following details:- "The watershed between Wakhan and Sarikol, i. e. the eastern crest of the Pamir, lies some 70 miles to the eastward of the position represented on our maps, since all the passes at the head of the Yassin and Karambar valleys, lead over into the basin of the Oxus, and not into that of the Yarkand River, or the Sarikol district. The Warchagam (or Yassin) River rises

This content downloaded from 91.229.229.162 on Tue, 24 Jun 2014 23:49:13 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions in Gi/git and Yassin. in threebranches; the most easterlyone in the DarkotePass, andthe othersat the headof the Daspurand Moshabur valleys. BelowYassin the GhirzahRiver, rising in the ShundurPass (leadingto Mastuchand Chitral) cotnes down past Shevareand effectsa junction. Thisstream also receivestwto considerable tributaries,one from the head of the SvwratValley, the other downthe BaltiburValley, up whichlies a routeconducting to the countryof Tangir. The unitedstreanl flows to the E.N.E. pastRoshan, and then suddenlyturns to thesouth-east. Above Gahkuch,40 miles from Gilgit, the Ish-KamanRiver joins fromdown the WarambarValley, up which,at fivedays' journey distance,is the mosteasterly pass leading into Wakhanor the basinof the Osus. Thereis a largelake at the head of this valley,called liarambar Sar, whichhas been formed by glaciers fallingand blocking up the bed of the stream. An immense amountof waterhas accumulated,and the inhabitantsof the Gilgit Valley fear that should a very hot summerensue, the lake may burst its bounds,and cause much destruction throughthe glaciersmelting. An mundationfrom a similar causetook place some nine vearsago, andthe marksof the devastationtllen causedare still distinctlyvisible. The Hunza- Nagarstrealn joins the GilgitRiver four miles below the GEilgit fort. Its twochief branchesrise in the ShinshalPass and at the headof the GarmasaiValley. Thereare somefine snowy peaksin the Moshaburridge betweenthe headof the Chitral andYassinvalleys. My measuremelltsof some of them give altitudesof from21,600 to 22,4()0feet abovethe level of the sea. Ourmaps mark a townof :Kashkarnear the head of the ChitralValley, but thereis no suchplace. The wholecoMhntry is called S:ashkar. Yassin,Ponyal and Mastuch(the districts of3are knownas Bura (or Upper) Eashkar; and (:hitral as iKuz (orI.ower) Rashkar. Tlleposition of Yassinitself I havefound to be in lat. 36° 22' 38"N., long. 78° 35'15" E., and 7765 feet abovethe sea. The (;ilgit Valley variesin elevationfrom 5V00to 5600 feet. Tlle wheatproduced is particularlyfine and large-grained,while the countryis rich in vineyardsand orchardsof apricottrees. Ruined villages and waste land, however,meet the eye everywhere,-theunhappy results of the incessantSeuds waged betwe,en the mountaineers(who are to a lnanMahomedans) and the Dogratroops of the Kashmir Rajah. The atrocitiesgractised by the Dograsare a dist,race to a feudatoryof the ritishcrown. Duringtheir raid into Yassinterritory, in 1863,they indiscriminatelykilled innocent womenand children. From 1200to 14()0of the poorYassin villagerswere massacred by the foulesttreachery and cruelty.

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A few days ago I visited the scene of the massacre, and after the lapse of seven years have myself counted 147 still entire skulls, nearly all those of women and children. "The River Indus would seem to have a course from 25 to 30 miles more to the northward (than represented on our maps) after turning westward below Boonji and Chilas. The streams it receives on its right bank are, the Kanbari, Dilial, and Tangir rivers; the countries of Dilial and Tangir inter- vening from Swat to Gilgit. Of these streams the Dilail River is the largest, and joins the Indus some 27 miles below Chilas at Sazeen. " As the passes leading on to the Pamir cannot be practicable until May or June, I may find it advisable to return to Gilgit and there wait for the proper moment to advance, for a pro- longed stay here is, to say the least of it, somewhat risky. The Yassin chief has, however, promised to assist me-will even furnish an armed party to accompany me on the Pamir, should I wish it. I do not think there is any necessity to avail myself of this offer; but loading up provisions here for a three months' campaign should ensure success, as the expedition will thus be independent of the Kirghiz. "I am very sanguine of being able to thoroughly ex- plore the Pamir Steppe during the summer of 1870, for everything promises well for the eventual success of the expedition. "I greatly wish to accomplish a journey through, and so home by Russia; but if forced to return, shall still endeavour to regain India by way of Chitral and Cabul. A visit to Chitral could not fail to be one of great interest. The Yassin and Chitral chiefs claim descent from Alexander of Macedon, through the kings of Khorasan. I am in hopes of being able to procure a couple of Siah Posh Kafirs to accompany me; so, if unable to enter Kafiristan, I still hope to get hold of their language. "I trust the Geographical Society were satisfied with my former maps and reports, and assuring you no pains or labour shall be spared to ensure success on the Pamir, "I remain, my dear Sir Roderick Murchison, "Yours very sincerely, "GEORGE W. HAYWARD."

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3. LETTER FROMMIR. G. W. HAYWARDTO COLONELSHOWERS

" MY DEAR COLONEL SHOWERS, "Murree, 27th April, 1870. " You will be surprised to see from the above address that I am back again in the Panjab. You will perhaps conclude that I have failed in Yassin; but, on the contrary, everything promises well for the final success of the Pamir expedition. Briefly to explain my presence here, I went to Yassin, was most hospitably received and well treated, and have the satisfaction of having established a friendship with the Yassin people. The courtesy and bearing of the chief, Meer Wulli Khan, were quite beyond what I expected to meet with in Dardistan. Of course the Kashmir officials were anything but pleased at my success, and secretly did everything they could to prevent my going; but the Yassin chief decided to allow me to visit his territory, and I felt sure that once arrived there I could win his goodwill. Having got the chief on my side is a most important step in my project; and although not all the difficulties, yet certainly one of the greatest has been overcome. While in Yassin I received two letters from Raja Aman-i-Moolk, the Chitral ruler (Meer Wulli Khan's father-in-law) expressing pleasure at my having made the acquaintance of his son-in-law, and hoping I would visit Chitral when the passes opened, in which case he would do his best to further my journey to Badakhshan. Apparently his letter was friendly; but as the Yassin chief begged I would not think of visiting Chitral, at any rate at present, I began to think that Aman-i-Moolk would probably like to get an Englishman into his power, in order to play him off against the aggression of the Maharajah of Kashmir in the Gilgit Valley. I went off exploring and shoot- ing up to the foot of the Moshabur Pass, leading over into the head of the Chitral Valley, and also the Darkote Pass leading over into Wakhan, the basin of the Oxus; and it was evident the passes would be impracticable for laden animals until June. Thinking it dangerous to linger in such uncertain ground until the passes opened, I made every arrangement for a second visit in May, and, bidding a temporary farewell to my Yassin friends, returned to Gilgit. Most fortunately I did so, for the Mahara- jah's officials in Gilgit (to serve their own purposes) had caused a report to be spread that I had been plundered in Yassin (mark, I was particularly well treated), and had sent off orders to Astor for the whole of the Dogra forces there (from 2000 to 3000 men) to march at once to Gilgit for the purpose of invading Yassin. My return to Gilgit stopped them, and they

This content downloaded from 91.229.229.162 on Tue, 24 Jun 2014 23:49:13 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions 8 HAYWARD's Letters on his Explorations hurried back to Astor, but not before I had ascertained the truth of the movement. Comment on such an act of faithless- ness would be unnecessary: had they invaded Yassin, such an act would have been fatal to the whole Pamir expedition. The Yassin people could but have connected my presence there with the aggressions of the Dogras. I left Gilgit on the 21st March, leaving my camp, horses, &c., there, and have come down double marches. We were delayed five days, the Astor side of the Boorzil Pass, waiting for the weather to clear, but crossed the pass without any accident, although we had to march waist-deep through the snow for fifty miles. We passed three nights on the snow; and further than suffering from snow-blindness, caused by the intense glare of the sun on the new snow, were fortunate in crossing a pass said to be impracticable until May. I stayed three days in Srinagur, and came down to Murree in four days from there, just too late to see the Viceroy in Rawul Pindee. I have now just returned from Pindee, and, after seeing Lord Mayo here, to-morrow hope to get away from Kashmir at once. I should be back in Yassin, and on the Pamir by the end of June at latest. The Yassin chief has promised to assist me, will even send a party of his followers with me as a protection against the Kirghiz, if I wish it. Loading up supplies for a three months' campaign at Yassin should ensure success, and I feel very sanguine of thoroughly exploring the Pamir during the summer of 1870. It was most tantalizing to get to the foot of the Darkote Pass to know that the commencement of the Bam-i-Dooneah (Roof of the World) lay just beyond the pass, and to be unable to get there yet on account of the snow. " I have always been of opinion that the true road from India to Yarkand is from Peshawur rid the Chitral Valley, or from Kashmir rid the Yassin and Gilgit valleys, and not over the Karakoram range. I am more than ever inclined to uphold the opinion since I have seen the excellent road up the Yassin Valley. The geographical features which I have discovered may be said to be comprised in the following details. I have explored nearly all the valleys in the basin of the Gilgit and Yassin rivers, the watershed between Wakhan and Sarikol i. e.; the eastern crest of the Pamir lies from 60 to 70 miles more to the eastward than as given in our maps; the passes at the head of the Karambar and Yassin valleys lead over into the basin of the Oxus and not into that of the Yarkand River, or the Sarikol district. lThe Yassin River rises in three branches, the most easterly one in the Darkote Pass, the other two at the head of the Daspur and Aloshabur valleys. Below Yassin

This content downloaded from 91.229.229.162 on Tue, 24 Jun 2014 23:49:13 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions in GilgRand Yassin. 9 the GhirzahRiver, rising in the ShundurPass (leading to Mastuchand Chitral),comes down past Shevare,this stream alsoreceives two considerable tributaries-one from the headof the Swat Valley, the other downthe BaltiburValley-up which lies a road leading to the countryof Tangir. The united stream flows to the E.N.E., pa8t Roshan,and then suddenlyturns to the south-east.Above Gahkuchthe Ish- kamanRiver joins downthe KaramburValley, up which,at five days'journey distance, is the mo,steasterly pass leading overinto Wakhan or the basinof the Oslla. It appearsthere is a largelake at the headof this valley,which has been formed by glaciersfalling and blockingup the valley. An immense amountof waterhas accumulated, and the inhabitantsfear that, shoulda veryhot summerensue, the lakemay burst its bounds throughthe glaciermelting, and cnause much destruction in the Gilgit Valley. An inllndationfrom a similarcause took place nine or ten years ago, the lake burstingits bounds,and the marksof the devastationthen causf3d are still distinctlyvisible in the valley. I be]ievethe destructionof the cantonmentof A owsheramay be tracedto this cause,the waterbrought down throughthe Gilgit Valleyhaving flooded the Indus and driven the SundaRiver back up its bed. TheIndus itself has a course of 20 to 25 milesmore to the northwardthan delineatedin our maps: after turningwestward below Boonji,the streamsit receivesbetween Boonji and Balakoteon its rightbank are the Dilial and Tangirrivers, which countlies lie betweenGilgit andSwat; the Dilail iELiverjoins the Industwo da^ts'joumey belowChilas; the IIunza-Nagarstream joills tlle Gilgit River bur Inilesbelow that place,its two chief branchesrise in the ShillgshalPass and at the head of the Gelmasai Valley. YassinI follndto be in lat. 36° 22'38" N., long.73° 35' 15" E., and7765 feet abovethe sea. Thereare somefine snowy peaks, varyingfrom 91,600 to 22,400 feet above the sea, in the Moshaburridge betwee:nthe headsof the Mastuchor Chital andYassin valleys. I have had some capitalsport in Yassin. Ibe2 of 54, 45, and 44 inches,as well as llsarkhorof 56, 522, and 42i inches, are the best heads I llave secured. The liashmir shootingcannot be comparedwith tlle sport met with acrossthe Indus. The Pamir Steppes swarm with gazme,amongst which are the gigantic' ovis poli,'the largest speciesof wild sheep in Asia. No European,I believe,has everkilled one. By the xvayvI met a servantof yoursgoing into :Eashmir,and from what he said I presumethat you are goingon leaveagain to Washmirthis year. I hopeto get back therebefore tI. Forsythand Dr. Cayleyleave for Ladak. I am afraidthe Yarkandtrade has beenvery much ezzaggerated,

This content downloaded from 91.229.229.162 on Tue, 24 Jun 2014 23:49:13 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions 10 HAYWARD's Letters on his Explorations and will not fulfil the expectations formed of it. The exports are very insignificant, although the Yarkandies would take Manchester goods in large quantities from India. I must not forget to mention that Colonel A. Gardner was inquiring most anxiously about his route-map and notes, which he said were in your hands, and hoped I might be able to take some answer about their publication back to him. He is of opinion that the Chang-chenmo route is a mistake, and a much better road is available by the Chitral or Yassin valleys. After seeing the country, I am inclined to second his opinion. The Yassin route is everything to be desired. There are no difficult passes met with except the Chichilih Pass in Sarikol district, and supplies are everywhere obtainable; but after exploring the Pamir I shall be able to ascertain every detail of this route. Mr. Forsyth, you will be aware, is going to Yarkand. There can be no danger to the mission as long as the Atalik Ghazee is alive and in power, but I doubt the members of the mission being allowed to go about when and where they please. As to going on to Khokand, the Atalik Ghazee will not hear of it for one moment. If he would allow exploring, Kashgar would be a splendid basis from which to attack the Pamir. If no dis- turbances have occurred in Gilgit, that now is the best road, but it will be impossible to visit Chitral and the Pamir too. If going home through Russian territory is given up, a return through Chitral might be ventured on; but Chitral, at the best, is dangerous ground: indeed, if the envoy from Chitral has got no satisfactory answer from Colonel Pollock, and has gone back, believing the British Government will not interfere to prevent further aggressions on the part of the Maharajah of Kashmir, it would be folly for an Englishman to enter that country. If I can get on from Yassin and cross the passes with supplies suffi- cient for the onward journey, I should endeavour to make the Russian frontier; where once arrived, a favourable reception should be a certainty. I must ask you to excuse a hurried note as I am much pressed for time, and "I remain, "Yours very truly, "'GEORGE W. HAYWARD."

4. LETTER FROM MR. G. W. HAYWARD TO COLONEL SHOWERS.

" MY DEAR COLONEL SHOWERS, " Srinagur, 8th May, 1870. " I have just reached here, and received your letter of the 2nd instant, forwarded from Murree.

This content downloaded from 91.229.229.162 on Tue, 24 Jun 2014 23:49:13 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions in Gilgit and Yassin. 11 " I had a very satisfactory interview with Lord Mayo, and am anxiously awaiting the result of the arrangements with the Maharajahat Sealkote. I am afraid there will be no resident (permanent) in Kashmir as yet, or anything said about giving up Gilgit; but all aggression for the future will, I am sure, be strictly forbidden. By crossing the Indus, the treaty of 1846 with the British Government has been most signally infringed. I have written to Colonel Pollock, the Commissioner of Pesha- wur, to ascertain the result of the visit of the vakeel sent by Aman-i-Moolk, the Chitral chief. It is of vital importance to the success of my expedition, and indeed my own safety, to know exactly what ideas he went back with. If the Chitral ruler thinks he will receive justice at the hands of our Government in the matter of the aggressions of the Dogras, no doubt an Englishman would meet a favourable reception in Chitral, otherwise it would be folly to enter the country. However, about the letters, as my maps and reports cannot be ready for some days, I should be glad if you would send them at once to Sir Roderick. I am, of course, writing privately to Sir Roderick and Sir Henry Rawlinson, but have some hard work to do yet before my maps and reports are ready. It has been most gratifying to me to hear that the Geographical Society's Gold Medal has been awarded me for the Yarkand trip. By the way, General Kaufman has been instructed to receive me well in Russian Turkistan if I succeed in getting through the ' terra incognita' of the Pamir Steppe; having got the Yassin chief on my side should ensure that success. I will write and let you know my exact movements before leaving Kashmir, and in the mean time I remain, "Yours very truly, "CGEORGE W. HAAYWARD."

5. LETTElRKFROM MR. G. W. HAYWARD TO SIR RODERICK I. MURCHISON.

MY DEAR SIR RODERICK MURCHISON, "Kashmir, 21st May, 1870. "A former letter of mine will have made you acquainted with the fact of my return to Kashmir from Yassin and Gilgit. The abominable treachery and bad faith of the Maharajah of Kashmir's officials in Gilgit rendered such a step on my part positively necessary to ensure my own safety. Under the dread of an expose of the atrocities they have committed across the Indus, the Dogra officials had evidently planned a systematic

This content downloaded from 91.229.229.162 on Tue, 24 Jun 2014 23:49:13 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions 12 HAYWARD'SLetters on his Explorations scheme to injure me, and mar the success of my expedition. Thinking I was still in Yassin and sure to have become acquainted with all the facts of their misdeeds, or perhaps imagining I had been enabled to go on and cross the passes into Chitral or Wakhan, they caused a report to be spread that I had been plundered in Yassin, and, professedly to aid me, were on the point of again invading that territory, when my unexpected return to Gilgit arrested them. "I had been more than suspicious of the sincerity of their goodwill, and when I found the passes beyond Yassin were closed by the snow, and likely to be impracticable for some months, I at once decided to return to Gilgit and wait for the proper moment to advance. My sudden return fully exposed the intentions of the Dogra officials. The treachery they meditated was so palpable as to be quite unmistakable. An invasion of Yassin whilst I was in that territory could not have been otherwise than fatal to the whole of my party, for the Yassin chief and his followers would instantly have connected the aggression with my presence there, and in the heat of the moment would have vented their indignation and anger on myself and party. Leaving my camp in Gilgit, I hurried down to Kashmir and the Punjab for the twofold purpose of making every arrangement to avail myself of the favourable opening to the Pamir Steppe, offered by means of the friendship established with the Yassin people, and of representing the facts I had become acquainted with. I liave accordingly sent off baggage- animals and supplies for a summer's campaign to Gilgit, and ani following, myself, in a few days. I hope to reach Yassin in 22 days from here, and should be on the Pamir Steppe in five weeks from this date. "I regret, however, to have to tell you that a letter of mine representing the atrocities committed by the Maharaja of Kashmir's troops in the countries across the Indus, with an account of their massacre of the Yassin villages in 1863, and certain comments and opinions expressed thereon, has been published in the 'Pioneer' newspaper of May 9th. The publication of this letter is most unfortunate; and likely to interfere very much with the objects I have in view. I extremely regret that the editor of the paper in question should have thought fit to publish this letter, and the publication of it has been entirely in opposition to my wishes and instructions, while certain comments in the letter were never for one moment intended to be published in the form in which they appear in the 'Pioneer' of May 9th. The resentment aroused amongst the Maharaja's officials is very great, and it

This content downloaded from 91.229.229.162 on Tue, 24 Jun 2014 23:49:13 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions in Gilgit and Yassin. 13 cannot be doubted they will in every way secretly strive to do me harm. " Still, in the interests of geography, I feel myself bound to persevere in the enterprise; and notwithstanding I have been strongly advised to postpone my journey, and am very loth to think of allowing myself to be diverted from the undertaking by any increased danger incurred through the resentment of the Kashmir Durbar. "In order, however, to relieve the Royal Geographical Society from a shade of responsibility on my account, I deem it right to offer to sever all connection with the Society during the expedition I am contemplating; and though the severance of a connection so auspiciously begun will be a source of the profoundest regret to me, I am aware that before I left London it was distinctly understood that this exploration was undertaken solely at my own risk and on my own responsibility. " However, all things considered, the prospect of success looks very fair indeed, after I shall have once reached Yassin again. Whatever resentment the Kashmir Durbar may entertain, the very fact of its being known should prove my greater safety; for the Maharaja is thus, as it were, responsible for the safe progress of the expedition. " I am the more unwilling to give up the enterprise, from the mission of Mr. Forsyth to Yarkand; as, if able to open out the shortest and best route from British territory into Eastern Turkistan-that from Peshawur vid the Chitral Valley and the Pamir Steppe-it will undoubtedly be a great step, and it is for the sake of the scientific and geographical information expected as the result of my journey that I have determined to adhere to my original purpose. " Forewarned in this case is forearmed, and, notwithstanding all there will be to contend with, I firmly believe that (D.V.) success will ultimately attend my efforts, and carry through the enterprise in safety to the end. "I remain, yours very sincerely, " GEORGEW. HAYWARD."

Two months after the date of the preceding letter, Mr.Hayward was brutally murdered, as announced by Sir Henry Rawlinson in the 'Proceedings' of the Society, November 15th, 1870. The following letter gives a reliable account of this lamentable occurrence:-

This content downloaded from 91.229.229.162 on Tue, 24 Jun 2014 23:49:13 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions 14 HAYWARD's Letters on his Explorations

LETTER FROM MR. FREDERICK DREW TO SIR RODERICK MURCHISON, ON THE DEATH OF MR. HAYWARD.

" Jummoo,near Sealkote, " MY DEAR SIR RODERICKMURCHISON, " 21st Dec. 1870. " I am sure you will be anxiousto learn all that can be known aboutMr. Hayward'sdeath; and I am glad to be able to give you some particularsthat probablyhave not yet reached you. I was in Baltistan when the news of the event which has caused so much regret to all Mr. Hayward'sfriends, among whom I count myself, reached the Maharajaof Kashmir,and he sent ordersfor me to go to Gilgit, and make a thoroughinvestigation into the cir- cumstances: this I did to the best of my power,and have just now returned to Jummoo. I wrote a full report of all I could learn, which report the Maharaja has sent to the Lieut.-Governor of the Punjab, so it may reach you through Government; still I am desirous to let you know the result of enquiries in Gilgit without any delay. "No doubt Mr. Hayward gave you a full account of his first journey to Yasin; you will therefore have heard of the friendly way in which Mir Walli received him that first time, and will have seen how completely Mr. Hayward believed in him. Those more used to the two-facedness and the avarice of the people of those parts-developed to an extreme in their rulers-doubted the sincerity of Mir Walli's friendship, and saw cause enough for his civility in the presents given and in his hope for more afterwards, as well as in the wish that he had to make a political use of Mr. Hayward. I did not meet Mr. Hayward between his two journeys to Yasin-having missed him at Sirinagar by but a day; but I heard from him by letter, and heard from others, of much that he had experienced. It was clear that he had put away from him all fear of the Yasin people, and was most sanguine of the success of his expedition. " As all details of his last journey will be welcome to you, I will now give the particulars I learnt. "Mr. Hayward reached Gilgit on the 7th July, and left it for Yasin on the 9th; he had much more baggage than on his first journey-then fourteen coolies carried the camp, now thirty-three were required,-and he had these servants:-a munshi, a khansaman (Kashmiri), a chuprasi (Kashmiri), and two Pathans, whom he met and took into his service at Gilgit. I believe that he reached Yasin in five days, that is, on the 13th July. "For what happened after his crossing the Maharaja'sborder, we have evidence of various degrees of trustworthiness. There is the statement of Wazir Rahmat, a former acquaintance of mine, who was Mir Walli's wazir, but who, after the murder, fell away from him, and compassed his expulsion fiom Yasin. This we have in two forms-by a letter and by word of mouth from an agent he sent in to Gilgit; then there are some letters written to us by Iman-ul-Mulk, Raja of Chitral; and again there is the information got by messengers whom we sent to Yasin. From these materials a connected view of the last events in Mr. Hayward's life can be made out, and one which, from the corroboration of statements derived from various sources, deserves, I think, considerable confidence. "Wazir Rahmat says, that on Mr. Hayward approaching Yasin, Mir Walli went some miles out to meet him, and, on coming within hail, got off his horse; but that his visitor did not pay the same respect, but remained mounted till quite near, and that Mir Walli was somewhat offended at this. We have

This content downloaded from 91.229.229.162 on Tue, 24 Jun 2014 23:49:13 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions in Gilgit and Yassin. 15 no corroborationof this statementof Rahmat's,and if anything of the sort did occur,we may be sure that it was simply from Mr. Hayward not knowing what exactly was expected of him; nor is it likely that this of itself would have led to any serious consequences. Mr. Hayward pitched his camp in Yasin,and stayedthere two days, Mir Walli coming twice or thrice to visit him within that time. Duringone of these visits, Mir Walli askedwhat had been done in the matter of getting his right-or supposedright-to Gilgit recognisedby the Governor-General,for which purposehe had sent an agent to the Punjab,in companywith Mr. Hayward. Nothing having been effectedin this (the agent himself not having stayed to prosecutethe suit), Mr. Hayward could not give any answer that would be satisfactoryto people unused to the delay necessaryfor careful investigation and consideration. Mir Walli, it seems,had built much hope on Mr. Haywardhaving originallyundertaken to representhis case, and was proportionallydisappointed at nothing having resultedfrom it. " Then we hear, through Rahmat, that Mr. Haywardasked for coolies to carry his camp to Badakhshanby the straightroad, while Mir Walli desired him to take the way to Chitral,whence he might be passedon by the Chitral Raja. It seems that the RTijaof Chitralhad given ordersfor him to be sent on to him. Certainlyhe wished to see him; and on this occasionMir Walli (who had on the first visit dissuadedhim from going there)pressed him to go there, probablythinking it better that the Englishmanshould go to Chitraland part with his goods there than pass altogetherout of the family territories,-or perhaps he had, since the first visit, received such ordersabout this as he dared not disobey. This argument between the two was conductedwith a gooddeal of warmth. The accountssay-but I am unwilling to believe them -that Mr. Hayward called Mir Walli by a hard name that he was likely to resent. However,Mr. Haywardkept to his purpose(which was to go by as straight a road as possibleto Pamir), and Mir Walli gave in and provided coolies; and probablythen only, when he saw the covetedgoods going out of his reach,formed the design againstMr. Hayward'slife. "The progressof the camp was slow: the marches made were-Sandi, 3 miles; Hundar,5 miles; Darkft, 6 or 8 miles. It is not unlikelythat delays were purposelyinterposed; at the same time it must be rememberedthat carryingheavy loads is by no means a practicein that part of the world,and the cooliesvery likely refused to go beyond their own bounds,and so caused delay too. I reckonthat Mr. Hayward'scamp reachedDarkft on the after- noon of the 17th July. "Mir Walli having made up his mind to plunderand murder his guest- the man who had done his best to serve him-sent Shah Dil Iman, one of his relations,and Kfikali, a man well known in Yasin, with, some say, as many as sixty men. These reachedDarkft in the evening of the same day that saw Mr. Haywardarrive there; and the collection of so many in a small village arousedattention, and-although Shah Dil Iman said he had been sent to see Mr. Hayward safe over the Pass-even suspicion. There had been yet another cause for doubt in the mind of Mr. Hayward,in some wordswhich Mir Walli had let fall to one of the Pathans,when trying to persuadehim to leave his master'sservice; so much influence had these doubts on Mr. Hay- wardthat he sat up all that night prepared,expecting an attack. The head- man of the Darkut village describes him as sitting in his tent, with the candle burning, with guns ready on the table beforehim, and writing, but in his left handholding a pistol. No doubt,he thought that if he could tide over the dangerof this night he might escapefree, for close in front of his camp was the ridge, the boundary of Mir Walli's country, which crossing in the next march he would have reacled Badakshanterritory, out of reach

This content downloaded from 91.229.229.162 on Tue, 24 Jun 2014 23:49:13 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions 16 HAYWARD'S Letters on his Exploratzons of Mir Walli's treachery, and have had new countries before him to find his way through. " It was not, however, to be. The watch kept certainly deterred his enemies from an attack during the night; but these people are masters in the kind of warfare that consists in surprises: they waited their time, and when, by sun- rise, Mr. Hayward, thinking all danger over, lay down to take an hour's rest before the day's march, their opportunity had come. The position of the camp helped their design: it was at a little distance from the village, in a small garden at the edge of a thick pine-forest; in this they could collect their men, and even stand them near to the tents without observation. It seems that they did this on finding out that the object of their wiles was asleep, and then Kukali entered the tent with a rope, picked up from among the baggage, and while others came on and held in check and bound the servants, he, aided by more, seized Mr. Hayward and bound his hands behind him; and then they led both him and his servants away from the camp into the forest, for the distance of a mile or more, Mr. Hayward on the way offering them a ransom for his life. When they had come that distance they stopped, and Shah Dil Ilman, drawing his sword, cut him down with a blow on the neck that must have killed him at once; and this was while he was in the act of saying a prayer. At the same time four out of the five of the servants were killed close by; the bodies were covered up with heaps of stones, and so left. " The evidence of most of this that has been recounted comes from two separate and independent sources: first, Wazir Rahmat's letters, and the statement of the agent present; secondly, the account of the head-man of Darkuit, given to Gufar Khan, our sepoy. who went to that place afterwards. That, however, you may understand how it was that we received these accounts, I must tell next what occurred in Y .zin. " Wazir Rahmat was not in the murder, and he says that he tried to dis- suade Mir Walli from it. Now Mir Walli designed, first of all, to keep the whole thing a secret from the Maharaja's authorities and the British, and in Rahmat he saw a channel by which the news might ooze out; it was natural, too, that he should be incensed at his wazir being less guilty than himself: hence he designed to kill him. But in Rahmat he met his match. Getting private news of the plot, he sent his son to Mastuj, the Raja of which place was Pahlwan Bahadur, who equally with Mir Walli was tributary to the Chitral Raja; there a scheme was made to displace Mir Walli, and, with the consent of Raja Iman-ul-Mulk, Pahlwan Bahadur brought a force of 500 men to Yasin before Mir Walli had time to prepare a resistance; so he fled away by the Darkit road, and Pahlwan Bahadur reigns in his place with Rahmat as wazir. " Mr. Hayward's munshi, who had been kept prisoner up to this time, was killed by order of Mir Walli, when on his flight he reached the same village of Darkit. " No sooner was the new state of things established than agents came to Gilgit to apprise the Maharaja'sofficials of the change, saying that Raja Iman- ul-Mulk had deposed Mir Walli in punishment for his having murdered an Englishman. The agents from Chitral and Yasin were in Gilgit when I reached the place. Rahmat's special messenger I at once sent back, having got from him (not without taking advantage of his natural cupidity) a promise that he would send in Mr. Hayward's body; with him I sent Gufar Khan, who went to the place of the murder, uncovered all the bodies from the loose stones, buried on the spot those of four of the Muhammadans who had been killed, the fifth not being found, and brought Mr. Hayward's body into Gilgit, where it reached me on the evening of the 26th October. The next morning we

This content downloaded from 91.229.229.162 on Tue, 24 Jun 2014 23:49:13 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions in Gilgit and Yassin. 17 buriedhim in a garden near Gilgit Fort. A detachmentof troopsfired three volleys over his grave. " I think you will be gladto hearthat the Maharajahas promotedGufar Khan to the rank of Jemadar,and has otherwiserewarded him. " They at the same time gave over to GufarKhan a few of Mr. Hayward's goods, declaringthat the rest were taken away by Mir Walli in his flight. Thosewe recoveredwill be madeover to the PunjabGovernment: they include some books,loose papers,and maps. The papersI looked over,to see if any- thingwere written that might give help in findingout the cause of the murder, but there was nothing of late date. " You will like to know the last news of Mir Walli. He was pursuedas far as the Darkft Pass, but got away, with the loss of a few followers,to Badakh- shan; soon afterwards,however, he turnedfrom there, and came to Chitral and asked forgivenessof the Raja, and he has so far receivedit that he is now allowedto live there. We have sent back the ChitralVakeel with a demand that he should be given up; but it is hardlylikely to be agreed to, though Iman-ul-Mulkmay insist on his leaving Chitral. There are few places where he would be safe from the influence both of the British Governmentand of the Maharaja;but one there is-Swat, and there I think it likely he will take refuge. "Mr. Hayward'sdeath producedmuch regret among all who had met him-I speak of the people of the countrieshe had lately passed through. Many were the enquiriesmade of me as to the truth of the reportsof it that had spread,and deep was the pain which my answers caused. All who had had intercoursewith him took pleasure in praising him for his courageand energy and for his pleasantmanners. " The Maharajadesires me to say that if any of Mr. Hayward'sfriends or the Royal GeographicalSociety desire an inscriptionto be placed over his grave, and will communicateit, he will be glad to have the tablet executed in India, and will directthat the stone be properlyplaced. I put a woodencross at the head of the grave till somethingelse should replaceit.* "Believe me to be sincerelyyours, c"FREDERICK DREW."

* The Council of the Royal Geographical Society have availed themselves of this offer, and a suitable inscription, drawn up by Sir Henry Rawlinson, was sent, through Mr. Drew, to the Maharaja,who ordered the erection of the monument.-[ED.]

APPENDICES. YOL. XLI. C

This content downloaded from 91.229.229.162 on Tue, 24 Jun 2014 23:49:13 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions APPENDICES TO MR. HAYWARD'S LETTERS.

VOCABULARIES OF THE DIALECTS OF DARDISTAN, WAKHAN, SHIGNA(N, AND ROSHNAN.

Gilgit, Chilas, Dilail, &c. Hunza and Nagar. Yassin. Chitral.

1. Ek. Hun. Hun. 'Ih. 2. Di. Altazh. Altun (altazh). Ju. - 3. Cha. Usko. Usko. Tro, i. 4. Char. Walto. Walto. Chor. co 5. Po, ye. Tsundo. Tsundo. Poonj ct 6. Sha. Mishindo. Mishindo. Cho, i (Tchoi). 7. Sit. Thala. Thalo. Sot. 8. Atch. Altambo. Altambo. Usht. 9. Now. Hun, chu. Hun-chu. Nu (uyG). ce 10. Dai. Toram. Toram. Zhesh. Co 11. Ek, ai. Torma-hun. Torma-hun. Zhesh-ih. 12. Bai. Torma-Altazh. Ditto ditto. Zhesh-ju. 13. Cho, i. Torma-Usko. Ditto ditto. Zhesh-tro, i. 14. Choudai. Torma-Walto. Zhesh-chor. (Z 15. Pauzai. Torma-tsundo. Torma-tsundo. Zhesh, poonj. 16. Shu, i. Ditto &c. Ditto &c. Ditto &c. 17. Sat, ai. Ditto &c. Ditto &c. Ditto &c. Ez0* 18. Atch, ai. Ditto &c. Ditto &c. Ditto &c. 19. Quin, ai. Ditto &c. Ditto &c. Ditto &c. 20. Bee. Althar. 'Althar. Bishir. 21. Bee-ek, &c. Althar-hun. 'Althar hun. Bishir 'ih, &c. 30. Bee-dai. Althar toram. 'Althar toram. Bishir Zhesh. 40. Dui-bee. Altazh Althar. 'Altazh althar. Ju bishir. 50. Du-bee dai. Altazh Althar Toram. 'Altazh Althar toram. Ju bishir zhesh.

This content downloaded from 91.229.229.162 on Tue, 24 Jun 2014 23:49:13 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions 60. Cha, bee. Usko althar. Usko althar, Tro, i bishir. 70. Cha bee dai. Usko althar toram. Usko althar toram. Troi bishir zhesh. 80. Char bee. Walto althar. Walto althar. Chor bishir. 90. Char bee dai. Walto althar toram. Walto althar toram. Chor bishir zhesh. 100. Shal. Tha. Tha. Shor. 1000. Sas (saus). Sas. Sas. Hazar. Anybody. Ji. Kha. Menan. Anything. Jik. And. As. Another. Mutlti. Tuiman. Ttdman. Khiir. Air. Osh. 'Ai-esh. Tish. Asmnn (?). Awake. 'Utyo. Destul. Destul. Aunt. Baba Sa. Aya, es. Aya, es. Apricot. Phutar. Batiuring. Batdring. Chambuir. Arm. Sha, ko. 'Ashak. 'Ashak. Bazu. Arrow. Konh. Hunz (huntz). Hunz. Washu. All. Batap. Kohesus. 'Aiyun. Hamtini (hamooni). Army. Sfu (seeng). Hal. Hal. Bhol. Assembly. Gathi. Butsuis. Gathi. Ambo. Anger. Rosh. Mos. 'Imos. Kahrin. Annoyance. DamijTr. Damijar. Aim. Nazar. Nazar. Nazar. Nazar. Ask. Kojago. Dogacasan. Answer. Jawab. Jawab. Jawab. Jawsb. Ass. Jaktin. Jakuyo. Jakin. Gtirdogh. Arrange. Bandobast. 'Achoban. Below. Kiri. Yara. Kata. 'Af. Between. Mujja. Haran, ullu. Makuchi. Mlija. By. Gi. Bow. Danu. Jamma. Jama. Drtin. Bird. Cha, in. Chin, h. Chin, h. Bo, ik. Blood, Lel. Muilthun. Mtilthun. Le. Boat. Nau (naw). Nau. Kishti. Kishti. Bone, 'Utti. Tiu. Tiu. Kol. I I

This content downloaded from 91.229.229.162 on Tue, 24 Jun 2014 23:49:13 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions VocABULARIESOF TIT DIALECTSrOr DAIDISTAN, WAT.{AN, SFITGNN{N,AND RosiHNNT--Contlnued.

English. Gilgit, ChiLUs,DRlail, &c. Hunza and Nagar. Yassin. Chitrat.

Bridge (rope). Gal. Gal. Gal. Tili, siri. Bridge (wood). Sa, on. Bash. Bad. Kachn. Ghunakish. Shuim. Dish. Bitter. Chi,'uko. Shokaram. Shit. Shit. Black. Kinho. Mattam. Mattim. Sha. Bring. In, ati. Kol, ditzo. Kol, azo. Yi ra auglr. Be silent. Chik, ta. Chik, heta. Chiik, hetah. Phigbos. Brother. Jha (jah). Acho. Acho. Brar. Bridle. Gapi. Taban. Tamang. 'Ivis. Box. Sandik. Sandik. Sanduik. SandLik. Book. Kitab. Kitab. Kitab. Kitab. t Barley. Yo. Hari. Haray. Sfri. t-4c. Butter. Ghf. Maltush. Maltash. Doub. m Back. Pito. 'Awaldas. 'Awaldas. Krim. q~ Breast. Tetero. 'Audil. Dfling. Paz. C) Beginning. ..q Bed. Khat. Khat. Shau. Jhen. C* Beard. e. qtZ-t Dai, 'Auyar. Rigish. ;ZO Birth. Jilo. Dima, nimi. Dima, nimi. Ajistai. Buy. Ginoki. Yanus. Cat. Bishi (hooshi). Boosh. Boosh. Pooshi (pshhi). en Cow. Gao. Bi, a. Bf, a, Leshu. Crow. Kiu. Gh6u. Ghaimin. Kagh. Cold. Sor. Shagoram. Shagoram. 'Ushdk. Crooked. Kola. Gauda. To come. In, awa. Kol, ru. Kol, azho. Y6 raghlr. Cousin. Baba jawi pich. Aya acho, f. Custom. Miras. Chol. Dastuir. Dastiir. Choice. Khush. Cheap. Bodo. Bait. Carpet. Batari. BatAri. Jhfl. Jhfl.

This content downloaded from 91.229.229.162 on Tue, 24 Jun 2014 23:49:13 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions City. Shahr. Shahr. Bushai. 'Aulat. Cowardice. Bi, jato. Bijato. Clean. Pak. Pak. Bat, pagza. Bat, pagza. To cook. Reni, go. Desiri, miu. Distera. Pachana. Cotton. Ki, as. Ki, as. Kap,s. Didous. To cherish. Complaint. Faryad. Faryad. Kawet. Camel. 'Unt. 'Unt. 'Ut. 'Ut. Cloudy. 'Ajo. Copper. Ril. Ril. Sh, kark. Durdim. Cloak, chogha. Shoka. Shoka. Shuka. Shtika. Day. Dez. Guuntz. Gunz. 'Anus. Dog. Shu. Huk (hook). Huk (hook). Rehni. To drink. Pi. Mini. Mini. Pia. Daughter. Di. 'Ai. 'Ai. Jur. Darkness. Tatang. Tatang. Tutang. Chu, i. Desire. Biyet. Butyet. Door. Dar. Hing. Hiug. Du, art. Distant. Dur. Matan. Matan. Di, diri (doodeeri). Death. Mu. 'Irami. Mo, yaru. Obistai. Defeat. Fdti. F6ti. Galjain. 'Uchistani. Difficult. Zor. Zor. Mushkil. Mushkil. Ear. K6u. 'Iltamal. 'Altamal. Kar. Earth. Suin. Tik. Tik. Chuti. Egg. Hanay. Tingan. Tingan. Ai, ekan. Elephant. Hasto. Hasto. Fil. Fil. Eye. 'Achi (atchi). 'Alchamatz. 'Alchi. Ghech. To eat. Kha (h). Shi. Shi, a. Uayastam. End. Phash. Phash. Phash. Easy, Asau. Asdu. Askau. Askiu. Far. Dur. Matdn. Matan. Drung, Du, diri. From. -Jo. Fire. 'Agar. Phu. Phu. 'Angar. Father. Baba. 'Aya. Tati. Tat. Flower. Phaur. Haskor. Gambuiri. Gambdri.

This content downloaded from 91.229.229.162 on Tue, 24 Jun 2014 23:49:13 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions VOCABULARIESOF THE DIALECTS OF DARDISTAN, WAKITAN, SHIGNAN, AND ROsHNAN-continued.

English. Gilgit, Chills, Dilail, &c. Hunza and Nagar. Yassin. Chitral.

Foot. Pa, e. 'A, outing. 'A, outing. Png (poong). Fat. Tholo. Daghano. Daghana. Thul. Flat. Shilo. Babar. Rat. Lasht. Forehead. Nila, o. 'Afati. 'Afati. Peshani. 2 Finger. 'Angui, i. 'Unush. Gini. Chamut. Face. Mukh. 'Ishkil. 'Ishkil. Mukh. Fowl. KSrkamosh. Karkamosh. Karkamosh. Kahak. Fort. Kote. Kan (kun). Kan (kun). Naghir. Family. Aulad. Aulsd. Kaum. Kamyet. Fear. Biji, tai. Biji, tai. Gamal, cham. Bdltistai. False. Khaltay. Ghaltamish. Phaing. Changisun. Forest. Mushkh. Mush, kh. Mushkh. Kach. Feast. Onus. Onus. Badshia. Boyastam. Go. Bo. Nf. N6h. Bogha. Good. Mishto. Daltas. Shua. Jam. Great. Buro. 'Uyum. Ni, u. Lat. Green. Nflo. Shigam. Ishkam. 'Uch. C- Give. Dah (da). Yt. Yd. Dhet. Gun. Tumak. Tumak. Tuhak. Tuhak. Grass. Kach. Shikar. Pharo. Shal. Grape. Jach. Ghai, u. Ghai, u. Game, play. Halo. Halo. Girasham. 'Ishtok. Grain. Kilo. Phalo. C Grief. Hesh-Fikr. Hesh. Gham. Gham. Gold. Sou. Ginish. Ghendish. Soram. He (she, it). Ro. 'Iu. Na. Hes. His. Aisa. 'Iua. Hasa. Hatago. Here. 'Ani. Kolay. Kho. Hai, yara. How much? Kach6k. Bairam. Bairium. Kanduri. How? Kio. Beltan. Beltan. Kia, kasan. Hair. Jekiir, Wo, ung. Wo, ung. Phdr.

This content downloaded from 91.229.229.162 on Tue, 24 Jun 2014 23:49:13 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions Hand. Hath. 'Arnn. 'Arfn. Host. Hawk. Baz. Ba, yosh. Gashanj. Yurch. Head. Shish. Yetis. Yetis. S6r. Horn. Singh. Tur. Tuir. Surung. Horse. Ashpo. 'Aghor. Haghara. 'Ist6r. House. Gote. Hha. 'Hha. Khatun. Hunger. 'Unyar. Chamini. Chamini. Chili, yastam. Handsome. Minilya. Bad, daltas. Shua. Jam. To hear. Kouda. Galtamal, eta. Galtamal, eta. Ka, kori. Heart. Hiyo, Jil. Hiyo, Jil. 'Us. Hirdi. Hermit. Derbesh. Derbesh. Kalandar. Kalandar. Hard. Kuro. Danin. Dang. Dang. Hunting. Darun. Daru. Daru. 'Ishkar. In. 'Aru. 'Ula. 'Ula. 'Adraini. I. Md. Jha. Jha. 'Awa. Iron. Chimr. Chimr. Chimr. Chuimr. Information. Insane, mad. Yach, lito. 'Arago. 'Arago. Infidel. Kafir. Kafir. Kafir. Kafir. Justice. Isaf. 'Isaf. 'Instf. 'Insaf. Kill. Mara. 'Eshkanan. 'Eshkanan. Maristai. Knife. Khatar. Chur. Knee. Kato. Anamius. Anamus. Zanu. King. Badshah. Than. Than. Methar. Little. 'Apu. Phalis. Kam. Kam. Leaf. Putha. Tapung. Light. Sang. Sang. Gari. Rosht. Long. Jigo. Ghasan, am. Ghasan, am. Drdngh. Lift up. Hun, ta. Dal, eta. Lips. 'Ota. 'Iling. 'Iling. Shun. Leg. Ganh. Penfng. Phatik. Chuchu dek. Language. Bash. Bash. Zabdn. Zabdn. Level. Samar. Babur. Rat. Lasht. Lake. Sar. Sar. Phari. Chat. Letter. Khatt. f Khatt. Khatt. Khatt. I _

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Leather. Chain. But. Gup. Gochu. Lead. Nang (nung). Nang. Hakin. Haziz. Mine. Mai. Jha dila. Jha bar. 'Awa sum. Much. Bodo. Bhut. Bhuit. Boh. Man. Musha. Hir. Hir. Mosh. 4 Moon. Yun. Haluntz. Halunz. Mas. ttj Mountain. Chish. Chish. Chish. Ziim. Mother. 'Aja. Mami. Nani. Nan. Mouth. Ai. Hakat. Hakat. 'Apak. Milk. Dudh. Mdmu. IMmu. Chir. ct Morning, Lashtaki. Tsordi. Tsordi. Chui, chi. cz Misfortune. Balai. Pits, i. Medicine. Bilain. Milain. Mila, hun. Wez. Meat. maus. Pushtir. ccJ Mos, Chap. Chap. . Marriage. Shariyar. Shariyar. Khushaini. Khushaini. Male. Biro. Biro. Now. 'rain Miita. 'Amita. Hanisi. . (Tein). 13 Name. Nam. Gu'yek. Guyek. Nam. Cq1 Night. Rati. Tap. Tap. Chu, i. Near. Kach. Hasir. Hasdr. Sho, i. Nephew. Jawi-puch. 'Acho, i. Niece. Jawa-di. 'Acho, ai. Nose. Nato. Gumash. Gumash. Naskar. cNIt Nostrils. h. Nato, joli. 'Amal, tarin. Bahang. Bukh, C-ID Nail. Nuri. 'Uru. 'Uru. Doghur. New. Na, o. Tosh. Tosh. Nogh. Notice. Our. Aisa, hano. Mi, bi. 'Ispa hasar. Ou. Outside. Daru. Hola. Hola. Bair, f. Oil. Tel. Old. Pariino. Parluno.

This content downloaded from 91.229.229.162 on Tue, 24 Jun 2014 23:49:13 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions Proof. Majfno. Prisoner. Budo. Budo. Bandi. Bandi. Poverty. Nachari. Place. Dish. Dish. Jajah. Jajah. Pit. Galko. Galk. Ch, ha. Pretence. Bahana. Bahana. Bahana. Bahana. Petition. Buyet. ]3uyet. Kousish. Kousish. Plain. Lasht. Rat. Rat. Lasht. Priest. Akhoond. Akhoond. Akhoond. Akhoond. River, Sin (Sind). Sinda. Sinda. Sin. Road. P6n. Gau. Gau. Pong. Raw, Amdi. Daghoi. Daghoi. Amilu. Red. Lailo. Bardiim. Bardum. Kroi. Ripe. Pakau. Digoui. Digoui. Pdchistai. Round. Bidiru. Bidiru. Rice. Birf, u. Biri, u. Gring. Gring. Rock. Batt. Dau. Dau. Butrt. Ring. Baruno. Baruno. Barundu. Palangashtu. Remainder. Phat, bilok. Dua, si. Dua, si. Roof of a house. Tesh. Tesh. Sholt. Istan. Ready. Taiyar. Taiyar. Taiyar. Taiyar. Robber. thief. Churuto. Ghin. Ghin. Chog. Rain. 'Ajho. Haralt. Barsdt. Waru. Return. Ba, alo. Dadimi. Dadi, a. Baga, hai. Rafter. Bo, yi. Sinchko. Salj. Sangir. Salt. Baju. Bai, yu. Bai, yu. Trdp. Skin. Cham. Bat. Gap. Post. Sky. 'Agai. Bhot. Haiyesh. Asman. Star. Tara. Hasf. Hasiman, 'Istari. Snake. Jhim. Tal. Thal. 'Ai, i. Sun. Suri. Sa. Sha. Yuir. Stone, Batt. Dau. Dau. Buirt. Short. Katu. Chat. Chat. Blatz. Straight. Sunchu. Tsan. Tsan. Huirk. Small. Chuno. Jhat. Hachogan. Tsak. Sweet. 'IspA, o. 'Uyam. 'Uyam. Fristam. I

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F.,glisb. Gilgtt, CtilAs, Dilail, 8:;c. Hun7n nnd Nagar. Yassin. ChitrAl, Be silent. Chukta. Chuk, heta. Chuk, heta. Phigbos. Sit down, Bai. Harut. Harut, Nishi. Sleep. Sao, Gucha. GuchA, Pori. Stand up. Humbo. Dalmana. Dal, mana. Speak. Rha. Sen. Sen. RhA. p Strike. De'h, Dila. Dila. Dit. Son. Puell. 'Ayi. 'Ayi. Ja, ou. Saddle. Tilain. Tilain. Tila, hun. Hun. v Stirrup. Kai. Alghan. Kai. Kaha. ce Sabre. Khangr. Gatanch. Gatanch. Khungr. Sign, Haiaun. Nishan. Haiyun. Haiyun. ct Stage. Bas. Basah. 'Eb, es Basah. co Selld. Chima, gas. 'Airam. 3 'Airam. ce Slave. Maristan. Maristan. Maristan. Rohi, Wai, goeu. Smell. Gun. Nas. Nas, s Share. Bargo. 13argo. Phakiu, Bajdr. Chai, ek. Sick. Ragoto. 'Urgot. Awalam. ca Stranger, Logo. Jai, ip. Begans, N ojau. Sickness. Ghulis. Ghlllis. Awalamkish. Chai, eki. Search. Looko. Hamal, kum. Talash. Talash. Spectacle. Hai. Tamasha. Tamasha. Tamasha. Ssvift. Teino. Teino. Tez, Tez. a To seek. 'Odoroki. 'Odoretus Silence. Chuk. Chup. Lanat, Phigbos. 3 Shield. Soft. Ma, ou. Mo. Flash. Flash. Staff. Kamali. Darago. To sell. Ga, digar, Gashat. Gashat. Be, zamistai. Silver. Bup. RAp. Buri, Darokham. Shoes. Pizar Kafsha. (3now. Hin, Gha. Gha. Him. Straw. Ishka. Jash.

This content downloaded from 91.229.229.162 on Tue, 24 Jun 2014 23:49:13 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions Sheep. 'Ajila. Hunyes. Bilas. Kohri. Thou. Tif. 'Ung. 'Ung. Tu. They. Ri. Aw. Het. Het. Thine. Tai (thai). 'Ung dill. 'Ung bar. Tu, asas. This. 'Ano. Kas. Gdta. Haia. That. 'Aw (ao). Hes. Ta. Hes. There. 'Adi. 'Ela. Tola. Hira. Then. Obel. Heta. Thus. Ada. 'Akil. 'Akhi. To-day. Ash. Kuilto. 'Akhiui. Haniin. To-morrow. Lushtaki. Jimden. Gulnchut. Chuchi. Tiger. Di. Tah. Tah. Phardun. Tooth. Doni. 'Ama. Guma. Doii. Tree. Tam. Joug. Dirakht. Dirakht. Tall. Jigo. Ghusanam. Ghusanam. Driungh(droong). Thin. Taluno. Giligin. Giligin. Take. Ldm. Hur. Tsu. Throat. Shoto. Bilk. Gosh. Gol. Thigh. Phatalo. Basuring. Gultuns. Dek. Tongue. Jib. 'Unas. 'Ungas. Tent. Guit. Gtit. Trouble. True. Sdncho. Tsan. Tsan. Hifrk. Time. Kha, en. Kha, in. Wakht. Wakht. Traveller. Musafir. Gharib. Musafir. Musafir. Tower. Shikar. Shikar. Tomb. Mazgr. Mazar. Mazar. Mazar. Understand. Dashtaki. Haiba. Guinchat. Pina, chui (doubtful). Tncle. Baba Jah. 'Aiya acho. We. Bhi. Mi. Mi. 'Ispa. Who? Ko. Menan. Menan. Ka. What? Jik. Basan. Basan. Kashir. When? Kera. Beshal. Bashar. (Kiawakt?). Where? Koni. 'Amallu. 'Amallu. Kura. Why? Jik (?). Bo. Basan. Kari. With. Nula. Nula. Nula. Cho.

English. Gilgit, Chilas,Dilail, &c. Hunzaand Nagar. Yassin. Chitral.

Within. 'Aru. 'Ula. 'Ula. Adraini. Without. Daru. Hola. Hola. Bai, ri. Water. Wai (Uey). Tsil. Tsil. 'Ugh. Weary. Shamaras. 'Awaram. 'Awaram. White. Shai, o. Burim. Burim. Ishparo. 2 Weep. Rahiu. Harchabai. Woman. Chai. Gis. Gtis. Kum iri. Wheat. Gum. Gir. Giur. Goum. Window. Dur. Duri. Voice, sound. Musho. Kis. Achur. Awaz. Village. Ku, i. Bishai. Whip. Tur. Tiir. War, battle. Birg.. Birga. Jang. Jang. World. Dunyat. Dinyat. Duiya. Dunya.y Witness. Chip, ji. Chip, ji. To wash. Dhojoki. Yaltash. Wonder. 'Ajtino. Thim. Akhish. Najan. Wine. Mo. Mel. Mel. Rhen. Valley. Gah. Barkin. Bar. Gol. Wood. Juk. Gashil. Hin. Dar. Wild goat. Bum, kail. Ghiri. Halden. Tanush. Wild sheep. 'Urfn (ooreen). 'Urin. Yet,hal. Rhan. " You, ye. Tzo (tso). Ma. Ma. Bisa. Yes. Hano (hanun). Bai. Dila. Hasur. Yesterday. Waist. Daikhi. Ashting. Ashting. Meh. Yesterday Beluko. Sati. Sati. Uazen. evening. Wise. Akhil chan. Akhil chan. Dana. Dana. Field. Chaht. Mal. Mal. Chatuir. Fish. Chimo. Chimo. Chtimo. Mdsi. Wall. Kiut. Kuit. Kit. A pass. Kin. Kun. Ktin. To return. Ba, glo. D)dimi. Dddi, a. Baga, hai

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DIALECTS OF WAKHIN, SHIGNAN, AND ROSHNAN.

English. Wakhdn. Shignan and Roshndn.

1. Eeu (y6). Lf, u. 2. Bu, i. Haray. 3. Trd, i. Tri. 4. Tsab6r. Tsavar. 5. Paus. Peeuz. 6. Shal. Khir. 7. 'Up (oop.) Khiri. 8. Hath. Hasht. 9. Naou. No, u. 10. Las. I,s. 20. Bist. Bist. 100. Sadd. Sadd. 1000. Hazar. Hazar. I. Uez. Yet. Thou. Tu. 'U'z. He. You. Yem. Here. Drim. Yandir. There. Dret. Undir. Where. Koomrit. Kundir. Horse. Yash. Warch. Vorch (Vorj). Dog. Shach. Kiidh. River. Yapakh (Yapak). Khets. Mountain. Koh. Jir. Lake. Chot. Hauz. Another. Dirikh. Chis. Bow. Distee. Distee. Arrow. U'ch (Ooch.) 'U'ch. Gun. Miltik. Miltik. Sabre. Khingar. Cheet. Rice. Gring. Gring. Fire. Rikhneek (Rikhnik) Yutz. Wheat. Gidfm (Gideem.) Jhindem. Sun. Yir. Aftab. Moon. Jamak. Mahtab. Father. Tat. Dad. Mother. Nan. Mad. Brother. Varut. Varad. Man. Mardina, Chorik. Woman. Aurat. Ghfn (Gh66n). Rock. Gha. Tash. Plain. Dasht. Dasht. Black. Shu. Tir. White. Rokh. Safed. All. K6kt. Flik. Good. Baf. Shich. Bad. Shak. Ganda. Bridle. Yakh6n. Lagam (Lajam). Saddle. Peru. Badan. Hot. Shfindr. Garm. Gold. Sfr. Ish. War. Jang. Jang. Near. Shish. Sult. Distant. Rir. Rir.

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DIALECTSOF WAHHAN, SHIGN.N, AND ROSHNAN(continued).

English. WakhMn. Shignan and RoshnAn.

Hand. Hdth. Wakht. Head. Sar. Kulah. Foot. Pu, et. Pa. Eye. Chashur. Tsim. Pass. WuI,in. Kotal. Voice, sound. Awggh. Kiu, kin (Kyu, kin). To-day. Wulk. Shich. To-morrow. Sahar. Firda. Difficult. Mushkil. Mushkil. Easy. Asdn. Asan. Great. Lhp. Kalan. Small. Tsiklai. Zilakik. Water. Yapak. Khetz. Food. Khech. Girda. Cloak. Chikmen. Gilem. Earth. Shet. Zamin, Above. Buland, Tfr. Below. Pust. Pist. Outside. Bahar. Bir. Inside. Khun. Chit. Sheep. Kilah. Gospand. King. Meer. Kh. True. Rast. Rast. False. Durogh. Durogh. Snow. Zem. Barf (Baraf). To ask. Pdrsam. Pishtam. To drink. Pitam. Brikhtam. To give. Marand. Mirdak. To take. Deshdam. Zokhtam. To know. Uindam. Chiktam. To hear. Kshenam. Shinawidam. To sell. Pfiritam. Farokhtam. To say. Kasakhaw. Gap markui. To come. Uezda. Yet. To go. Rech. Saou (Sao). To bring. Nfizim. Sar. A road. Varek. P6u. I I

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ROUTE I.

KASHMIRto GILGIT,by Dras, Skardo and the Indus Valley.

Number of Places. Miles. REMARKS. Marches.

Srinagarto 9 Dras .... 97 Vide Montgomerie'sKashmir route, map. 10 Tashgam 14 Road good down left bank of Dras River. 11 Karkitchu . 14 Two miles below Tashgam, cross by bridge to right bank of river, and recross to village of Karkitchu.

12 Gangany .. 10 Left bank of Dras River.

13 Olding Shung.. 10i1 do. do. 14 Tarkusti .... 9 Left bank of River Indus.

15 Kartaksho 11l Cross by rope bridge to right bank of Indus.

16 Tolti .. 13 Recross by rope bridge to left bank.

17 Parkuta .. 13 On left bank of River Indus.

18 Gol .... 11 do. do.

19 Skardo ... 18A Capital of Baltistan, or Little Tibet.

Total 2214 From Skardo to Gilgit, this road is totally impracticablefor animals, and even difficult for men carrying loads. 20 Komara ... 101 Cross River Indus by ferry-boat to right bank. At 41 miles village of Kwardo, then villages of Hassan Shah, and Birgam. Komara, a village containing 140 houses. 21 Tsari .... 9 To village of Bagardo 3 miles, beyond which, at 6 miles is Tsari; road in one place difficult. 22 Tongus. .. 12 Road for 6 miles good, then very difficult close to the river. In summer this lower road is impracticable, and the route is then over spur of the mountain. Dusoo, 23 or Tormik .. 9 Ascent of 1 mile, then descend to village of Baicha, 5 miles from Tongus; from where, steep ascent of 1i mile, across spur of hill. Easy descent to village of Dusoo in the Tormik Valley.

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KASHMIBUto GILGIT continued.

Number of Places. Miles. 1' EDIARE. Marches.

Twtir, 24 or RoIldu .. Roadalong mountain side abovethe Induss 1 2.1- difficultin places. Campat village of TwAr,on the right bank of the Indus, oppositeRondu on left bank. fThereis a rope-bridgehere.

25 Stiriko .. .. Roadgood. A smallvillage. 6 26 Stak .. .. For 8 miles road along Indus; then on 130 the asceIltup the StakValley, to thatvil- lage, a placeof some80 houses. There is a fort occupiedby sometroops of the Maharajaof Kashmir. Suppliesfor the journey on to Gilgit shouldbe carried fromhere. There is no habitationbe- tween Stakand Haramosh

27 Malapa .. .. Road down the StakValley for 4 miles, 10 then alongright bankof Indus.

28 Chitroon ., Roadvery difflcult. A few huts here. 4 29 Ubulchu.. .. Roadgood. Campin ravine,close by the 6 Indus. No woodfor fuel close to camp.

30 Shingus .. .. Roadvery difficult, along precipitous rocks abovethe Indus.

31 Brundu .. .. 9 Steep ascent of 4500 feet to the Shingus Pass, acrossa spur runningdown from the HaramoshPeak. The passis 10,245 feet above the sea. Steep descentof 3 miles to Brundu,on the right bankof Indlls, whereare somehot springs. It is optiona]to campin the ravinenear the summitof the pass, allulcross the followingday.

39 Haramosh .. Roadexceedingly difficult, in manyplaces alongprecipitous rocks above the Indus. Haramoshis a small village inhabited solely by Brokpas.

3o Shuta . . .. Road good. Pass ruinedvillage of Han- 8 tsil.

34 Legbut .. .. Roadalong Indus for 7 miles,then up the ll Gilgit Valley. Campclose by the Gilgit River on left bank.

35 Daill) ur .. .. Road good and level up the left bank of 18 the Gilgit River. DaiIlyuris a village situatedat the junctionof the Hunza- NagarRiarer.

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EASHMIRto GILGITcontinued.

Number of Places. Miles. RE^r^nss. Marches.

36 Gilgit .. .. 5 Cross the Gilgit River by rope-brid¢e. The road continuesup the right bank to Gilgit, a place of 900 houses. A large fort, garrisonedby 1500troops of the KashmirMaharaja. SkardotoGilgit 1610 Kashmirto Gilgit .. 383 Gilgit is in Lat. 35° 5.5'2" N., Long. 74° 23 E., and 5025 feet abovethe sea.

ROUTE IT. GITGIT to YASSIN. Route practicablefor laden animalsthroughout.

Number of Places. Miles. REMIARES. Marches.

Gilgit to 1 Shurote Roadgood up the right bankof the Gilgit l 5.2 River,to nearthe village of Bargo,where crossby rope-bridgeto left bank. Horses and laden animals fordthe stream. It is 1lotnecessary to crossto the left bank but optionalto continueup the left side of the valley to Shurote.

2 SherKila Pass villages of Skiote and Gulapur,and fordriver to Sher Kila Ox1left bank. SherKila is an enclosedvillage and fort undera pettyRaja Esau Bagdur,nomi- nally suMectto the Maharajahof Kash- mir. His territoryextends as far as Gahkuch,and the wholedistrict is called Ponyal.

3 Gahkuch At 5 miles fromShe'r Kila Pass the small 169 village of Japook,beyond which, at 4 miles is Singal, an enclosedvillage on the right bank. A large valley here joins fromthe southwarK,up which lies a roadleading by the Butar Passto the countryof Dilail. Pass villages of Bubar, Gulmati, and Grunjurto GSahkuch,a large enclosed village. The territory of Raja Esau Bogdurends here. VOL. NLI. D

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GILGITto YASSIN-continued.

Number of Places, Miles. REMARKS. Marches.

4 Roshan .. 192 Road continues up the right bhnk of the river. At 4 miles above Gahkich, the junction of the Yassin and Ish Kaman Rivers (which form the Gilgit River) is reached. A road conducts up the Valley of the Ish- Kaman River, passing Chitor-kun and Ish-Kaman, enclosed villages under the Yassin Chief, and crossing the Burogil Pass at its head into the country of Wakhan, in the basin of the Oxus. There is a large lake called " KarambarSar," at the head of this valley, which has been formed by glaciers falling and blocking up the bed of the stream. The pass is reached in 5 days' journey from Gah- kuch. Continue up the westerly valley to Roshan, an enclosed village and fort, under the Yassin Chief. A road conducts from Roshan up a valley to the southward, and crosses a pass at its head to Dilail.

5 Yassin .. .. 191 At 5 miles from Roshan Pass the village of Gupis, beyond which, at 2 miles is the junction of the Yassin and Shevare Valleys. Up the latter a road conducts, via Peenyul and Shevare, and crossing the Shundur Pass at its head, conducts to Mastuch and Chitral. Ford both streams, and continue up the left bank of the Yassin River to village of Gindai, near which ford stream, and continue up right bank, past village of Dumyal to Yassin, a large village and strong fort, the residence of Raja Meer Wulli Khan, the ruler of the Yassin territory.

Gilgit to Yassin Total .. 78

ROUTE III. GILGITto HUNZA.

Number of Places. Miles. REMARKS. Marches.

Gilgit to 1 Nomal .. 14 Cross the Gilgit River by rope-bridgebelow the fort. Road lies up Hunza Nagar Valley, from oppositevillage of Dainyir. Maharaja of Kashmir's territory ends here.

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GILGITto HUNZA-continued.

Number of Places. Miles. REMARES. Marches.

2 Gwetch .... 61 A small village. 3 Chult . .. 7 A small enclosed village at the junction of the Chuprote Valley. 4 Boralus .. . 3 Cross Garmasairiver to village of Boralus. 5 Maiyoon .... 7 Road difficult. Ascent and descent across a spur. The first Hunza fort is at Maiyoon. 6 Hinnee .. 6 Village (enclosed). 7 Aliabad ... 9 Ditto. ditto.

Ultit, or 8 Hunza . .. 3 Large village and fort, occupied by Ghazan Khan, the Hunza Chief. The Hunza territory contains some 1500 houses, and musters from 1000 to 1200 fighting men. The country is called Kunjoot. Total .. 56 Following up the Hunza River, at 1 mile, is passed the village of Hydrabad, from where, at 18 miles, is the village of Gilmit. At 14 miles above Gilmit is the village of Gujdl. From Gujal a road crosses the Shinshal Pass to Shinshal, in the basin of the Yarkand River. A road goes from Shinshal to Yassin, and is followed by the Hunza people.

ROUTE IV. GILGITto NAGAR.

Number of Places. Miles. REMARKS. Marches.

Gilgit to 1 Jitul .. 9 At 5 miles from Gilgit cross by rope- bridge to the village of Dainyuir,at junction of Hunza-Nagar River. Continue up left bank of Hunza-Nagar to village of Jitul.

2 Jaglote .... 61 A small enclosed village on left bank. Ma- haraja of Kashmir's territory ends here. D 2

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GILGITto NAGAR-continued.

Number of Places. Miles. REMARKS. Marches.

3 Nilt .. 19 Cross the Shultur Pass over a spur, run- ning down from the lofty Raki Pooshi Peak. Road difficult. The first Nagar fort is at Nilt.

4 Pissun At lI miles pass village of Thol, beyond which, at 2 miles, is enclosed village of Gulmat.

5 Askardo 8 At 5 miles pass enclosed village of Fikr. Askardo village and fort. 6 Nagar At 2 miles, pass enclosed village of Sa- maiyar. Nagar is a large village and fort, occupied by Jaffir Ali Khdn, the Nagar chief. The Nagar territory contains some 3000 houses, and musters about 15u0 fighting men. Total .. 541 At 28 miles from Nagar, up the valley of that stream, is a village called Hispar, above which cross a pass (road over glacier) into the Basha Valley.

ROUTE V.

GILGIT to DILAIL, by the Choonjur Pass.

Number of Places. Miles. REMARKS. Marches.

Gilgit to 1 Jhut (Eng.) .. 13 Pass villages of Napdr and Baseen, close to Gilgit and enter the Kirgah Valley. Huts here.

2 Mazar Mejnoon 13 Road up Kirgah Valley. Mazar Mejnoon, tomb of a Syad. No habitation. 3 Tsakarbos 12 Camp at head of Kirgah Valley, near the pass. 4 Kulijoonjee .. 9 At 3 miles cross the ChoonjurPass to Kuli- joonjee, in the Kanbari Valley, unfre- quented except by herdsmen with sheep and goats. The Kanbari stream rises in the pass, and falls into the Indus at Hoodur (5 miles above Chilas) between Boonji and Chilis.

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GILGITto DILAIL-continued.

Number of Places. Miles. REMARKS. Marches.

5 Yahchote.. . 20 At 6 miles cross the Kuli Pass into the Biragah Valley; the stream in which joins the Dilail River. Road down Biragah Valley to Yachote, an enclosed village on left bank. The Kuli Pass is also called Biragah Kun. 6 Samagal .... 6 Enclosed village. Pass the village of Namakil on right bank. 7 Phoonch .... 5 Enclosed village on left bank. Gaiyar, or 8 Dilail .. . 11 Large village and fort. Total .. 89 The country of Dilail contains about 4000 inhabitants, and musters some 1800 fighting men.

ROUTE VI. NAGARto SKARDO,by the Hispar Pass.

Number of Places. Miles. REMARKS. lMarches.

Nagar to 1 Hoopur .... 6 Village in the Nagar Valley. 2 Hispar .. 22 Ditto. ditto. 3 Camp .. 17 Cross Hispar Pass into Basha Valley. Road along glacier. No habitation.

4 Brok .. 15 Ditto. ditto.

5 Arundu .... 13 Village in the Basha Valley. Chitroon, or 6 Ab-i-garm .. 10 Hot springs. 9 Skardo .... 34 Road down Basha and Shigar Valleys to Skardo.

Total .. 117

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ROUTE VII.

GILGITto CHILAS.

Number of Places. Miles. REMARKS. Marches.

Gilgit to 1 Mainoor .. 8 Village in the Gilgit Valley. 2 Chakarkot .. 16~ Cross a low pass into the Sai Valley. Pass villages of Jugote and Shumrote to Chakarkot.

3 Tullichi .... 18 At 4 miles pass the village of Dumote, and opposite Boonji. Continue down the right bank of the Indus to Tullichi, a small village. 4 Goor .... 14 A village at junction of the Goor Valley, on right bank of Indus. 5 Dullarn .... 16 Cross to left bank of Indus by rope-bridge, or cross at Hoodur, 4 miles below, nearly opposite Chilas. 6 Chilas .... 5

77i

ROUTE VII.--continued.

YASSIN to WAKHAN,by the Darkote Pass.

Number of Places. Miles. REMARKS. Marches.

Yassin to 1 Hoondur .. .. 11 Pass the villages of Gujalti and Sandi in the Yassin Valley. Road up left side of valley, level and good. At 6 miles from Yassin ford the Tool River at its junction with the Warchagam(or Yassin River) near the village of Barandos. 2 Darkote .. 17 At 8 miles pass the village of Dariara, road good. Four miles beyond which is the village of Mushk. Darkote is the last village in the Yassin territory. 3 Darband ... 7 Encampment. 4 Kirkavish 10 Encampment near the Pass.

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YAssIN to WAKHAN---continued.

Number of Places. Miles. REMARKS. Marches.

5 Burogil 15 At 5 miles from Kirkavish cross the Dar- kote Pass into the basin of the Oxus. As- cent gradual and easy. Pass only closed in winter. Largely used by Badakhshi and WakhAni, petty traders coming to Yassin and Gilgit. 6 Pechoot .... 11 Encampment in Wakhan territory. 7 Petkaro ... 10 Ditto. ditto.

8 Sar-i-Sarhadd.. 14 First village in Wakhan territory. 9 Nilt. .... 15 Village in Wakhan. 10 Your .. 10 Ditto. ditto.

11 Tang .. 11 Ditto. ditto. 12 Wask .. 10 Ditto. ditto.

13 Gaskun .. 10 Ditto, ditto.

14 Zung 11 Ditto. ditto. 15 Panja Kila 15 Fort and village. The residence of Meer Futtah Ali Shah, the ruler of Wakhdn.

Total .. 177 From Wakhan, an easy route leads by Kolab, Hissar, and Shahr-i-Salz to Sa- marcand.

ROUTE VII.-continued. YASSINto CHITRAL,by the Shundur Pass. From information given by Sirdar Bahadur Khan, a brother of Raja Aman-i- Moolk, the Chitral ruler.

Number of Places. Miles. REMARKS. Mar ches.

Yassin to 1 Khulti .. 11 Road down Yassin Valley to junction of Warchagam and Ghirza Rivers. Con- tinue up left side of the latter stream to the village of Khulti. 2 Daimul .. 8 A small village. A road branches from here, which leads up the Baltibur Valley to the country of Tangir, and thence to Dilail.

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YASSIN to CHITRAL--continued.

Number of Places. Miles. REMARKS. Marches.

3 Peenyul .. 11 Village under the Yassin Chief.

4 Chashee .. 10 Ditto. ditto.

5 Shevare .. 14 At 7 miles pass the village of Barkotee Shevare, a large village under Wuzeer Rakhmat Khan.

6 Laspoor .. 28 At 5 miles pass the village of Teray beyond which, at 14 miles, cross the Shun- dur Pass, leading into the head of the Mastuch, or Chitral Valley. Rahman .. 17 A Village.

8 Gasht .. 15 Ditto.

9 Kinootz 8 Ditto.

10 Mastuch .. 4 Fort and village, the residence of Raja Palawan Khan.

11 Nisar .. 16 Village. Road down left bank of the Chi- tral River.

12 Tow.... 11 Ditto. ditto.

13 Sunoghar 10 Ditto. ditto. 14 Miragam 4 Ditto. ditto.

15 Awi.. 16 Ditto. ditto.

16 Kroigologh 17 Ditto. ditto.

17 Buni .. 11 Ditto. ditto.

18 Jinelikuch 12 Ditto. ditto.

19 Charum .. 11 Ditto. ditto.

20 Reshun 19 Village in the valley of the Chitral'River. 21 Papish .. 15 Ditto. ditto. 22 Noghurish 7 Ditto. ditto. 23 Maroi .. 15 At 4 miles pass village of Barenis. 24 Moree . 10 Village. 25 Koghuz ... 11 Ditto. Ragh ... 4 Ditto.

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YASSIN to CHITRAL-continued.

Number of Places. Miles. REMARKS. Marches.

26 Kari .... 5 Village. Danin .... 10 Ditto. Chusar ... 4 Ditto.

27 Chitral .... 4 Large village and fort, the residence of Raja Amnn-i-Moolk, ruler of Chitral. Total .. 326

N.B.-The distances are probably over- estimated.

N.B.-There is no town or village called Kashkar (or Cashkar) in the Chitral Valley. The whole country is called Kashkar. The countries of Yassin, Ponyal, and Mastuch are known as Bud Kashkar (or Upper Kashkar) while Chitral is known as K6z (or Lower) Kashkar.

ROUTE VIII.

KASHMIRto GILGIT,by Astor.

Number of Places. Miles. REMARKS. Marches.

Kashmir to 1 Bandipoorby boat 35 2 Tragbul .... 10 Ascent from village of Kralpoora. 3 Kunzlwan .. 15 Cross Randiangan Pass. Village on left bank of Kishengunga River. 4 Goorais ... Hil Road good up right bank of Kishengunga River. Supplies for the journey onward should be taken from Goorais.

5 Kamri ... 13 Village. 6 Meean Murg .. 12 Huts near Dorikoon Pass. 7 Daskoram .. 29 At 5 miles above Meean Murg, the Skardo road by the Drosai Plains branches to the right. To the summit of the pass is 11 miles from Meean Murg. Road good. Descent gradual to village of Daskoram. The pass is about 13,500 feet above the sea, and is closed in winter.

8 Goodai ... 14 Village.

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42 HAYWARD'S Letterson his Exploratio?s

1IASHMIR to GILGITconttnued.

Number Places. Miles. REMARES, Marches.

9 Astor ...... l 7 Pass village of Naogam and Finnel. Astor is a large place, garrisorAedby some 2000 troops of the Maharajaof Rashmir. 10 Dashkin ...... 14 At 8 miles pass village of Harcho. 11 Dooi .. .. 12 Pass village of Mushk half-way. Road along hillside above the Astor River. 12 Boonji .. .. 10, Ascend from the village of Dooi to the summit of hill, then steep descent of 7 miles to Ram Ghaut, a bridge across the Astor River. This pass is called the Hatoo Peer. Cross to right bank of river by wooden bridge, and continue up the open valley of the Indus to Boonji on left bank. A fort garrisoned by Kashmir troops is here. 1tS Mainoor ...... 93 Cross to right bank of Indus by ferry-boat immediately above Boonji, and contintle up Sai Valley past villages of Dumote, Chakarkot,Shumrote, and Jugote. Then ascend spur of hill, alld cross into Gilgit Valley to illage of Mainoor. 14 Gilgit .. .. 8 Vide Route I. Total .. 231

N.B.-The road throughout is practicable for laden animals. The Doriko()n Pass is a very easy one. The Hatoo Pass between Astor and Boonji very difficult for laden animals.

INSTRIJMENTALOBSERYATIONS IN TEE GILGIT AND YASSIN VALLEYS, &a.

24th January, 1870. At the villaCeof AIcoramos11,near the greatbend of tlle RiverIndus, observed for latitude:- Sun'smeridian altitude ...... 34° 57 0" Refraction ...... 0 1 7 34° 55t 53't Zenithdistance ...... 55 4 7

Latitudeof Haramosh...... 35° 50' 22'N. 2Sth January, 1870.-At the greatbend of the lndus, one lnile belowthe villaCeof Haramosh,observed the boilin-pointof waterto be 204°4'; temperatureof air,45° Fahr.; level of river,4535 feet above sea-level.

This content downloaded from 91.229.229.162 on Tue, 24 Jun 2014 23:49:13 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions ArgumentsXJ6any.t;26=th} 3rd correction ...... + 0 58

in GilyStand Yassin. 43 26thJanuary, 1870. At the junctionof the Gilgit Riverwith the Indus observedthe boiling-pointof waterto be 204° 9'; temperatureof air, 51i° Fahr.; heightof Indusat junctionof GilgitRiver, 4260 feet. At the villageof Boonji^,five miles South of thejunction, observed the boiling- pointof waterto be 203° 6'; air, 57° Fahr.;height, 4885 feet * levelof the Indusat the ferrybelow Boonji, 4205 feet. At CampLegbut, on the left bank of the GilgitRiver, 11 mileNorth of its junctionwith the Indus,made the followingobservations for latitude: 26thJanvary, 1870. Meridianaltitude of Star. B Orionis(Rigel) ...... 45° G3' 15" Refraction ...... 0 0 56 45° 52' 19" Zenithdistance ...... 44 7 41 Star'sdeclination, South ...... 8 21 15 Latitude ...... 35° 46' 26"N. Meridianaltitude of Star CanisMajoris}37 42' 30" Refraction,Ac...... 0 1 3 37 41 27 Declinationof Sirius,South ...... 16 32 25 Latitude ...... 35° 46' 8"N. By altst?ldeof thePole Star. h. tn. s. In longitude74° 40' East; andat .. .. 10 33 1o Mean-time. Theobserved altitude of the PoleStar was 35° a1' 30" Bormula. h. rn. s. Mean-time...... 10 33 15 DiXerence,long. (74° 40')in titne .. .. 4 58 40

Greenwichmean-time...... G 34 35 Siderealtime at Greenwich,mean .. .. 20 22 18-35 Mean-timeat Lag;but...... 10 33 15 Accelerationfor 5h 34m3f;g O O G4-95 Siderealtime of observation ...... 6 G6 28-3 Altitudeof PoleStar ...... 3G°G1' 3Q" Deductfor refraction, &c...... 0 1 {; 35 50 25 Subtract ...... 0 1 0 Reducedaltitude ...... 3o 49 2G Miithargument 6h- 56m 28S firstcorrection 0 G 15 Approximatelatitude ...... 35° 44' 10" Arguments,36h 5°6m} 2ndcorrection .. + 0 42

Latitude .. .. .* .. .. 35° 4S' 50"N. Adoptfor latitude of CampLegbut .. .. 35° 46' 88 N.

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44 IIAYWARD'S Letterson his Explorations 27th January, 1870. At Chamoyar,Gilgit Valley, observed for latittlde:- Meridianaltitude of StarB Orionis(Rigel) 45° 50' O" Refraction ...... O 0 55

Zenithdistance ...... 45 49 5 44 10 55 Star'sdeclination, Fouth ...... 8 21 27 Latitudeof Chamogar...... 35° 4Y 28"N. 28th January, 1870. At the villaCeof Dainyur, at the jllnctionof the lIunza-NagarRiver with the GilgitRiver, observed for latitude:- Meridianaltitude of StarB Orionis(RiCel) 45° 4S' 15" Refraction ...... O 0 55 45° 44' 20" Zenithdistance ...... 44 15 40 Star'sdeclination, South ...... 8 21 27 Latitude ...... 35° 54' 13"N. 7th Sebruary, 1870. At (7ilgit, observedfor latitude:- Meridianaltitude of Star A CanisMajoris}370 33, 30,, Refraction.. .. ., ...... O 1 4 37° 32' 26" Zenithdistance ...... 52 27 34 Star'sdeclination, South ...... 16 32 37 Latitude ...... 35° 54' 57"N. 9th February,1870. Observedfor latitude at Gilgit: Sun'smeridian altitude ...... 39 24' O" Refraction.. .. ,...... 0 1 0 39° 23' O" Zenithdistance ...... 50 37 0

Latitude ...... 35° 55' 2"N. Boilin-pointof water(mean of selreralobservations), 203° 5'; temperatureof air,49° 8' height,5025 feet abovethe sca. Adoptfor latitudeof the Fortof Giigit,35° 55' 2"N. 21st February,1870.-At the villageof Baryo, 13f milesfrom Gilgit towards Yassin,observed for latitude:- Altitudeof StarA CanisMajoris (Sirius) 3X° 25' 30" Refraction ...... O 1 4 37° 24' 26" Star'sdeclination, Soutll ...... 16 32 40 Latitude ...... 36° 2' 54"N. 23rd February,1870.- Boiling-pointof waterat Sher Kita, 202°3', air,55° Fahr.;height, 5670 feet above sea-level.

This content downloaded from 91.229.229.162 on Tue, 24 Jun 2014 23:49:13 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions in GilyStand Yassin. 45 24thFebruary, 1870. At Gahkgwh,observed for latitude:- Altitudeof StarA CanisMajoris .. .. 37° 19' 5" Refraction...... 0 1 4 37° 18' 1" Zenithdistance ...... 52 41 59 Star'sdeclination, South ...... 16 32 40 Latitude ...... 36° 9' 19"N. 26thFebruary, 1870. At Glahkuch,observed for latitude:- Sun'smeridian altitude ...... 44° 43' 0" Refraction...... 0 0 57 44° 42' 3" Zenithdistance ...... 45 17 57 Sun'sdeclination for long. 73° 57' E. .. 9 8 25 Latitude ...... 36° 9' 32"Ne At lIoopurencampment above the junctionof the Yassinand Ish Kaman rivers,observed boiling-point of water,200° 5'; air, 62° Fahr.; height, 6448feet. At the villageof (72zpis, 11 mile below the junctionof the NVarchaCham (Yassin)and Ghirza (Shevare) rivers, observed for latitude:- 16th March. Altitude of Star A Canis Majoris.3o 14 30" Refraction ...... 0 1 4 37° 13' 26" Zenithdist;ance ...... 52 46 34 Star'sdeclinatiorl, South ...... 16 32 40 Latitudeof Gupis ...... 36° 13' 54"N. Boiling-pointof waterat Gupis,199° 4'; air,48° Fahr.;height, 7278 feet. 28th February,1870. At Yassin,observed boiling-point of water,198° 6'; air,669° Fahr.; height, 7765 feet. 2nd March. Observedfor latitllde of Yassin:- Sun'smeridian altitude ...... 46° 24' 0" Refraction ...... O 0 55 46° 23' 6" Zenithdistance ...... 43 36 55 Sun'sdeclination for lon. 73° 34'E. .. 7 14 22 Latitude ...... 36° 22' 33"N. 3rd March,1870.-Observed for latitude:- Sun'smeridian altitude ...... 46° 46' 45" Refractioll ...... O O SS 46° 45' 50" Zenithdistance ...... 43 14 10 Sun'sdeclination for lon. 73° 34' E. .. 6 51 26 Latitude ...... 36° 22' 44t'N. Adoptfor Yasstn, Lat. 36° 22' 38" N.; lon(r.73° 34'15" E.; elevation,7765 feet.

This content downloaded from 91.229.229.162 on Tue, 24 Jun 2014 23:49:13 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions 46 OSBORNonthe Geography of theBed of theAtlantic and

N4B.-The heihts abovesea-level are referableto the station of the Great TriConometricalSurvey of India on the rock above Skardo at an elevationof 8867 feet above the sea. The country in the basin of the GilCitand Yassin rivers, Ac., has been filled in froratrianCulation, and bearinOsto the followinz, peaks: NanCaParbat or Dayamar Peak, in Lat. 35 14t 21" 5 N.; Long.,74° 37t 52t' 5 E.; elevation26,629 feet. HaramoshPeak, in Lat. 35° Sl' N.; Lon., 74° 57' E.; height, 24,285 feet. Manokaror Raki Pooshi Peak, in Lat. 36° 10' N.; Long., 74° 32' 30' E.; height, 2S,561 feet.

II. The Geogragphyof the Bed of the Atlantieand Indian Oceolnsand MediterraqqeanSeo6. By CaPtai]1SHERARD OSBORS,R.N., F.R.S., &C. Read, November29, 1870. GEOGRAPHY,or, in otherterms, a descriptionof the planeton whichwe live, must necessarilybe very imperfect,unless the waterswhich coverthree-fourths of its area,*and represent one-fifthof its entireweight or solume,be includedin suchan analysis. Yet a deseriptionof the oceanto-day falls far short of what geographicalresearch enables us to clowith reference {o the terrestrialportion of our globe. Indeed,it is onlyvery recentlythat geographerswere in a positionto tell us anything reliableof an elementwhich plays so importanta partin supportinghuman life, and ministeringto humanhappiness and progress. When Humboldtpenned his ' Cosmos,'he acknowledgedthe deepinterest which the hiddenmysteries of the oceanawakened in his brea.st;how lnuchthey deserved to be studied;and, whilst acknowledgingthe then valuable discoveliesof Mr. Darwin,he pointedout the directionin which the questshould be pqxrsqhedby all tlue loversof geography. B:adAlexander von Humboldtlived to our times,holv he wouldhave rejoiced at the progresswe havemade, and of the still greaterproraise which lies before the geographerand naturalist,of a fewmore years addingvastly to ourknowledge of the hiddenthings of the greatocean ! It is not manyyears since my worthyfriend Captain Maury, of the United States Navy, publishedhis deeply interestingwork on the Physical Geographyof the Sea,-a workwllich has donemore than any bookever before published, to attractthe attentionof all men

* Area of globe 197millions English squaremiles: 510 millionsland; 145 millionswater.

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