Letters from Mr. G. W. Hayward on His Explorations in Gilgit and Yassin Author(s): George W. Hayward Source: Journal of the Royal Geographical Society of London, Vol. 41 (1871), pp. 1-46 Published by: Wiley on behalf of The Royal Geographical Society (with the Institute of British Geographers) Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/3698053 . Accessed: 24/06/2014 23:49 Your use of the JSTOR archive indicates your acceptance of the Terms & Conditions of Use, available at . http://www.jstor.org/page/info/about/policies/terms.jsp . JSTOR is a not-for-profit service that helps scholars, researchers, and students discover, use, and build upon a wide range of content in a trusted digital archive. We use information technology and tools to increase productivity and facilitate new forms of scholarship. For more information about JSTOR, please contact [email protected]. Wiley and The Royal Geographical Society (with the Institute of British Geographers) are collaborating with JSTOR to digitize, preserve and extend access to Journal of the Royal Geographical Society of London. http://www.jstor.org This content downloaded from 91.229.229.162 on Tue, 24 Jun 2014 23:49:13 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions PAPERS READ BEFORE THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICALSOCIETY DURING THE SESSION 1870-71. [FORMING VOL. XLI. OF THE SOCIETY'SJOURNAL. PUBLISHEDJULY 1st, 1872.] I.-Letters from Mr. G. W. HAYWARDon his Explorationsin Gilgit and Yassin. Read, November 15, 1870. 1. LETTER FROM MR. G. W. HAYWARD TO COLONEL SHOWERS. " Camp Roshan, between Gilgit and Yassin, " MY DEAR COLONEL SHOWERS, " 17th February, 1870. " As you are good enough to take an interest in the exploring expedition to the Pamir, and expressed a wish to hear of my progress by Gilgit, I am glad to be able to let you know that I am on the point of entering Yassin, which place is only some 12 miles distant from my present camp. Some delay was experienced in Gilgit, and an advance to Yassin was for some time doubtful; but at length a favourable answer was received to my application to Meer Wulli Khan, the chief of the country, to be allowed to visit Yassin. He has sent an official to escort me in, and comes out himself to-morrow morning to meet me en route. Judging from his letter and friendly expressions, a favourable reception seems certain. He is related by marriage to Aman-i-Moolk, the chief of Chitral, and if I can obtain the latter's goodwill through Meer Wulli Khan, there should be no great difficulty in penetrating to the Karakul. Should the Yassin chief further my views, and render assistance as far as Wakhan, it will not be imperative to visit Chitral, since his vakeel mentions a very good route leading direct from Yassin VOL. XLI. B This content downloaded from 91.229.229.162 on Tue, 24 Jun 2014 23:49:13 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions 4$ "-',',,, .:-"Kaa 't,ec,oot ';sUWV '; s w Wa8an,8 ,4' Darband,(;' Po-ur.---... .hurA -0:s--o s _s -.-. ,- T I -_, .asht.o,~,-- R 0 0 R SO-'- . This content downloaded from 91.229.229.162 on Tue, 24 Jun 2014 23:49:13 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions 18h636 C H L A Sketch Map of the Route .;.,- TRANS-INDUS COUNTRIES MlHaywards ;,^1.o o Sowwt p ' s I R s X ° U n s sps b y This content downloaded from 91.229.229.162 on Tue, 24 Jun 2014 23:49:13 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions A S anga Parbut,or tDayam Peak EngZhMiles 'aPechoot,~,,, -'-'---, :-:-' ZKaa ';sUWV '; s w ,,o Pour,. ...-.. I %^'<)~V T Gashto' ---' L4L A ...i,oi a--- o R v"- C H L A Sketch Map of the Route .;..- MTHayvwards TRANS-INDUS ThisCOUNTRIES content downloaded from 91.229.229.162 on Tue, 24 Jun 2014 23:49:13 PM including All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions GILGIT, DIAI L,YASSIN &e. by Geo. J.W.Hayward. I Published for theJournal of the Royal GeographicaL Society i o I Sowwt p ' R U s sps b y A S anga Parbut,or tDayam Peak This content downloaded from 91.229.229.162 on Tue, 24 Jun 2014 23:49:13 PM EngZhMiles All use subject to JSTOR. Terms. and. Conditions . .2n 4 2 4 6 8 10 20 so 40 GeographiS Miles s o 2 4 6 8 10 20 o 40 Lp7 Soct bryJohrXurraoy,Xlbgnarle Steet;.];ondonl871. 2 HAYWARD'S Lettersowl his Explorations via the DarkotePass to Gujal in the basin of the Osus, thence to Shignan, Roshnan, Derwaz, Solab, lIissar, and Shahr-i- Sabz. This route entirely avoiclsChitral. After crossing the pass at the head of the Yassin Talley, it wotlldappear that one gets into a valley givirlg exit to one of the branchesof the Upper Osus. A road branches to the east w7ic6Sarikol, to Yarkand,and tlle direct roactleads down into Shignan. Our rlapSnaust be very faulty in t.heirdelineations of the country about the Pamir and the junction of the Hindu-Kush and S:arakoramchaiils. The watershed between Wakhan and Sarikolmust be lnore to the eastwald than is represellted,for the passes from the head of Yassin and the Gilgit River lead into tlle basin of the Oxus, and not ito the Sarikol district; as Yarkandand :@ashgarare rnoreto the eastwatdthan given in our maps,sothe eastern crestof the Palnir range should be foundto correspond,and I beliese it will be found to follow a meridian of about 75° of east longitude. There appears, however,to be no probabilityof eSecting a:nimmedia$e aclvance beyondYassin, as the passes are deep in snow,and will not be open for two or three months. After arran(ringwith the Yassin chief for the onvard jOUtIle77, it will be advisableto retutn to Gilgit, or perhapseven to liashlair, until the road is open, for it wouldbe impolitic to lingel ill such risky ground close to Chitral,the goodwillof wllosechief cannotas yet be depended upon. " Gilrit itself is a place of some 200 houses, situate on the right bank of the river, rising in tvo blanches in the antle fozed by the julletion of the Kalakoran and Hindu-Kush ranges,and joillinCthe ludus near Boonji. It is in lat. 35° 55' 2" N., long. 74° 22' E.n and 5025 feet aboxTethe se£z. 'TheKash- mir autlloritieshave a large fort occupied by some 900 men, commandingthe valley, and the Maharajah'sterritory may be said to end at Gahkuch,some 24 miles beyond,in the *lirection of Yassill. They are not on the best of terms with the Hunza- Nagar and Yassin people, whose territoriesthey hase several times invaded,but they have invariablybeen driven back after sufferint,lleavy losses. Hlluza itself appearsto be impregnable to tilem, on account of the difficult apploach tllrough the mountainouscountrv. They have twice attemptedit, but have fled back to Gilgit precipitately, and suffered heavily. 'llhe Hunza tribe, mustering about 700 to 800 fighting men, successfullv defend the nalrosYpathway and roll down rocks upon their foes. A habitual and collstallt feud has thus been engendered;for the tribes, beint, to a man rigid Mahomedans, legard with no fiiendly eyes the Hindus, to which c£lstenlost This content downloaded from 91.229.229.162 on Tue, 24 Jun 2014 23:49:13 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions in Gilyit and Yassin. 3 of the Kashmir troops belong. It is probable that the Kash- mir troops will again advance to the head of the valleys, and endeavour to annex Hunza and Yassin, or will have to retire to their natural frontier the Indus. They will hardly be able to hold Hunza should they seize it, for they have tried the onward movement and have even reached Yassin, but have been driven back after burning and plundering as many villages as they were able. " The inhabitants of Dardistan, in which may be included Gilgit, Chilas, Hunza-Nagar, Dilail, and Upper Chitral, are a fine, good-looking, athletic race, and the difference of race is at once perceived on crossing the Indus. Light and dark brown hair, with grey, hazel, and often blue eyes, are seen. The women have a more English cast of countenance than any I have yet seen in Asia. Black hair is the exception amongst them, light-brown locks prevailing. The country, such as is under cultivation, is fertile and productive, but the population is scanty. Pray excuse a somewhat hurried note, as I am much pressed for time, and remain, "Yours very truly, " GEORGEW. HAYWARD." 2. LETTER FROMMR. G W.. AYWARDTO SIR RODERICKI. MURCHISON. "Camp, Yassin, 14th March, 1870. "CMY DEAR SIR RODERICK MURCHISON, " It is with much pleasure I find myself able to address you from Yassin, which place I have safely reached from Gilgit. "In order to explain exactly the amount of progress made up to date, it is necessary to briefly mention what I have been doing during the winter months. "After leaving Kashmir last year, I marched steadily to Gilgit via Skardo and the Indus valley. The representations made to me by the Maharajah of Kashmir's officials, of the state of the Gilgit frontier, offered little hope of my being able to penetrate to the Pamir Steppe by this route; but arrived at Gilgit, I found matters not nearly so hopeless as I had been led to anticipate. It was at once apparent the Maharajah'sofficials in Gilgit were anything but pleased at the appearance of an Englishman on that frontier, with the ostensible intention of penetrating further, to do which it would be imperative to make friends of the different tribes, their enemies.