N The Inquirer | SUNDAY, FEB. 5, 2017 |PHILLY.COM|A Swiss surprises

TheEastGate marks the main entrancetoRoman Aventicum in . MICHAEL MILNE

The country offers visitors much beyond the usual attractions, including Roman ruins, Olympic history, and culinary treasures.

By Larissa and MichaelMilne with tiered seating. Twothousand years ago, this area FOR THE INQUIRER was Aventicum, the capital of Roman , aseg- witzerland intrigued before we even arrived. ment of that vast empire from which modern-daySwit- While researching our trip, we noticedthe zerland takes its name. Today,the amphitheater serves Swiss websites we accessed had adomain exten- as asite for concerts and theatrical performances in the sion of “.ch”. That didn’tmake sense to us; with warmer months. the exception of the dot-com-centric USA, most The area surrounding the town is abit more pristine, Sinternational websitesbear atwo-letter extension indi- where the remains of Roman Aventicum are slowly but cating theircountry of origin. They are typically repre- surely being (literally) unearthed. The scale is massive. sentative of the country name; for example, if you look Historian Bernard Godel drives us to apoint one mile in up aFrench company,itwill likely end in “.fr”. the distance across aflat plain, where the remains of a Why did acountry with neither a“c” nor an “h” in its wall and two squat, crenellated towers stand. name bear that designation? During our visit, we uncov- “This is the East Gate,” he proclaims. “It marks the ered some unique aspects of Switzerland that may not main entrance to Aventicum.” Between here and the have been relatedtothe “ch” designation but that town lay pastures and farmland, punctuatedwith tum- seemed fitting nonetheless. bled marble columns and evidence of archaeological It turnsout the official name of the multilingual coun- digs. Striding through the gate along the remains of the try is Confoederatio Helvetica, Latinfor “Swiss Confeder- Roman road, it’seasy to imagine arriving by chariot — ation.” Besides being apopular typeface, “Helvetica” Visitors can see ahands-on demonstration of the valley’s until the gentle clanging of cowbells brings you back to refers to the Celtic tribe that lived thousands of years traditional cheese production at Le Chalet. present-day Switzerland. ago in what is now Switzerland, even before the Romans Highlights of Aventicum include the baths, where ongo- arrived. As we touredthe regionofVaud,the “ch”start- medieval village with little more than amain street of ing excavationsrevealthe sophisticated systemofdis- ed to make sense in other ways. half-timbered buildings festooned with fluffy scarlet ge- tributing varying degrees of heated water to warm the Chariots: Switzerland is not acountrytypically associ- raniums cascading from the window boxes. floors and fill the bathing pools. Asemicircular theater ated with Roman ruins, yet just 30 miles north of the However,this town boasts something different —at —orperhaps parliament —isnestled amid earthen region’scapital city of , an ancient Roman the end of the main street lies what might at first glance works at the edge of town. With its vaulted passageways capital lies tucked amid the cow pastures. At first appear to be alarge oval pit. Upon further examination, still intact,and the stone outlines of the stage delineat- glance, the town of appears to be asleepy it is the remains of aRoman amphitheater,complete See SWITZERLAND on N5

Rekindling love on thelifts at Breckenridge TENNESSEE | N5

Ashorttrip to theski resortin Colorado,including cozydigs and endless food choices,was justthe pick-me-upfor frazzled parents.

By Laylan Connelly ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER nowflakes floating from agray sky tickled my face and sent achill up my S spine. Isnuggled closer to my husband, our Afterthe fires, legs dangling from the lift at Colorado’s Breckenridge Ski Resort, where fresh Gatlinburgisopen snow softly dropped onto tree branches again forbusiness. and formed afluffy,white blanket below as we inched higher and higher up the moun- tain. GADGET “I’m so cold,” Isaid slyly as Ilay my head on his shoulder. GURU | N2 He smiled at the inside joke, aflashback Slipper to asimplertime in our relationship: be- fore kids, beforemarriage, beforeamort- socks worth gage and all the other life stresses that had taking along consumed us of late. Seven years ago, on our third date, we OnceinBreckenridge, it’saneasyshuttle ride to gettothe gondola thatwill takeyou to keep your See BRECKENRIDGE on N4 up to Breckenridge Ski Resort. Breckenridge Ski Resort feet happy.

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Switzerland Continued from N1 ed, it’snot hard to envision atoga-clad senator issuing proclamations. Champions: Despite Helvetia’srelation- ship with the Romans, the city of Lausanne has aconnection to ancient Greece, albeit a more modern variety.Housing the headquar- ters of the International Olympic Committee, it is billed as the “Olympic Capital.” Here in a small park, the eternal Olympic flame burns in asculpted bronze cauldron, keeping the spiritofthe Games alive between global events. The OlympicMuseumprovides astir- ring history of the modern Games, inspir- ing visitors as though theywere once again watching the United States hockey team upset the Soviet Union in 1980. You can even watch avideo of that famous moment. The museum entrance sets the tone for athletic accomplishment: Visitors pass beneath ahigh-jump bar set at the Olympic record of 7’ 10”. Craning up at the bar,itseems impossible that any human could hoist his entire body over it. The story of French sportsman Pierre de Coubertin, father of the modern Olympics, is chronicled, along with adisplay of the first five-ringed Olympic flag, stitched to- gether by the Bon Marchedepartment store in Paris. Wall-size screens project Etivaz cheese is produced to strictstandards —coming only from chalets in mountain pastures between altitudes of 3,000 and films of top Olympic moments set to a 6,000 feet, and made with milk produced only between Mayand October. MICHAEL MILNE crescendo of dramatic music. In asepa- rate, hands-on area, visitors can test their reaction, strength,and balanceskills If yougo against those of Olympic champions, bring- The Region, ing soaring hopes plummeting backto known officially in Switzerland Earth. as the Canton of Vaud, is the Examples of the medals and the torches “province” on the northern from past Summer and Winter Games are shore of Lake Geneva. It is on display.Additionally,sports fans can reachedeasily by flyinginto search for artifacts fromtheir favorite thecity of Geneva, 30 miles to Olympians; included are the torn leotard the southwest. The region’s gymnast Kerri Strug wore in Atlanta when capital city of Lausanne, she vaulted to gold on an injured ankle, perchedright on the lake, the outfits ice dancers Torvill and Dean makes agreat base for touring wore in their Sarajevo performance that the area. earned astring of perfect 6.0 scores, and a wooden discus signed by Al Oerter,the Visitors can witness parts of the cheese-making processatthe Maison de L’Etivaz, ahuge yLakeGeneva/Canton first athlete to win gold in the same event cooperativecellar wherelocal dairy farmersbring their young cheese wheels to age. of Vaud tourism: at four consecutive Olympics. http://www.lake-geneva-region.ch/ Cheese: Admittedly, “Swiss cheese” is wherelocal dairyfarmers bringtheir to Michael to be cheese-curd strainer for the yRoman siteatAventicum/Avenches: not exactly an unknown term, but we were young cheese wheels to age for amini- day.Continually hoisting roughly 30 pounds http://www.avenches.ch/en/ curious to see whether there was more to mum of 135 days. of curds out of asteaming cauldron gives yOlympic Museum: it than the stuff typically found at super- In Château d’Oex, cheesemaker Maurice him anew appreciation of the physical de- https://www.olympic.org/museum market deli counters. Taking one of the Henchoz provides ahands-on demonstra- mands of creating such an artisan product. yCheesemaking at Château superefficient Swiss trains into the Alpine tion of the valley’straditional cheese pro- As the train chuggeddown the moun- d’Oexand Etivaz: foothills, we alighted at Château d’Oex, a duction at Le Chalet. Every morning, he tain, we reflected on Switzerland’s“ch” http://www.chateau-doex.ch/en picture-postcard village that serves as the stokes up the wood fire in the center of the designation. Perhaps the letters did make gateway to one of the country’sculinary restaurant’ssimple dining room and pours sense. Stopping in alocal mini-market for treasures: Etivaz cheese. almost 200 liters of fresh milk into acop- asnack, we found the final “ch”that yTransportation: All sites Until recently,this cheese, with its own per cauldron to heat. This is atrue loca- sealed the deal: Amid the milk, bread, and are accessible via the supereffi- AOP designation (much like certain wines vore process; Henchoz can tell which wild- lottery tickets, this standard shop provid- cient Swiss train system. We in France and Italy), was aregional secret. flowers the cows are eating by the taste of ed aselection of chocolate that would rival recommend obtaining aTravel The creamy,nutty wheels are produced to the milk. most gourmet food halls. Yep, “ch” stands Pass for 3-15 days through strictstandards—comingonly from cha- The freshly formed curds are ready by mid- for Switzerland, all right, as easily as a Swiss Rail that also includes letsinmountainpastures betweenalti- day,and interestedlunch patrons are wel- Swiss chalet. admission to several museums tudes of 3,000 and 6,000 feet, and made come to help with the straining and shaping and attractions throughout the with milk produced only between May and of the fledgling organic cheese. But most of Philadelphia natives Larissa and Michael Milne country. October.Visitors can witness part of the those nibbling lunch are locals who play a have been full-time global nomads since 2011. https://www.swiss-pass.ch/ process at the Maison de L’Etivaz, the role in the industry and who have no desire Follow their journey at huge cooperative cellar tucked in the hills to interrupt their midday break. Thus, it falls www.ChangesInLongitude.com.

Firesout,Gatlinburgisopen forbusiness again

By Alan Solomon still feeding, came high- you.” CHICAGO TRIBUNE windwarnings. Thenre- “People can look at the he grand opening, in ports of more fire in the bad side if they want,” this town on the edge mountains, and they were said Steve Ellis, who han- T of Great Smoky spreading.Evacuation no- dles sales and marketing Mountains National Park ticesfor Gatlinburg and for Parton properties in Pi- and five scenic miles from thenfor Pigeon Forge geon Forge. “But all the Gatlinburg, had beenin went out Nov.28. stuff’s going to be rebuilt. the works for months. “Please contain it,’” Vac- Carpenters, electricians, So had the drought. carello recalled saying to you go to get lumber —it’s Amarginally successful herself. Do not enter this jobs.” for-profit attraction,the parkway area. There were On Dec. 16, authorities National Museum of already fires …You could declared the fires in Great Crimeand Punishment, smell them.” Smoky Mountains Nation- had lost its home in Wash- The fire didn’tenter the al Park nearly 100 percent ington over money issues. Pigeon Forge Parkway contained and stopped is- Which meant John area. suing bulletins. Wayne Gacy’s clown suit “Wedidn’thave any loss In Pigeon Forge, all was and John Dillinger’sdeath of lifehere,” saidLeon normal. Dollywood, the maskand James Caan’s Downey,executive direc- amusementpark, re- pistol from The Godfather tor of the Pigeon Forge De- opened the first weekend might have gone back into partment of Tourism. “All in December.Other attrac- assorted collections and at- of our businesses contin- tions were doing fine de- tics. But no. ued to operate.” spite the inevitable mis- Instead,the museum It entered Gatlinburg. Aerialists perform at Dolly Parton’sLumberjack Adventure. ALAN SOLOMON /Chicago Tribune /TNS conceptions. was to move to Tennessee Gatlinburg lost 14 lives. Tw odays before Christ- and reopen as the Alcatraz More than 2,400struc- ‘Why would we want to mas, thanks to good work East Crime Museum. It tureswere destroyedor come there? Everything is by first responders and a was to sit comfortably damaged,including the gone.’ blessed event —rain — along PigeonForge’s six- home of the town’smayor. “Well,it’snot gone. the national park lifted its lane, slow-movingpark- The city’soldest hotel is Gatlinburg is open, ready ban on campfires. way in aneighborhood the Gatlinburg Inn. It was for business. We were all And on Dec. 16, right on that already included the built along the city’spark- affected, we all lost things, time, the Alcatraz East Hatfield and McCoy Din- way (narrower and even we’re all recovering —but Crime Museum —like ev- ner Show,the Hollywood slowerthan Pigeon if these people don’tcome erything in Pigeon Forge WaxMuseum, Smoky Forge’s) in 1937. Its guests back, then we’re reallygo- and almost everything in Mountain Opry,Wonder have included Liberace ing to be devastated.” Gatlinburg —was open Works, Dolly Parton’sLum- and Lady Bird Johnson. Approaching Christmas, for business. berjack Adventure, and, of The song “Rocky Top” was most Gatlinburg hotels “Yesterday is gone, gone, course, Dollywood.And writteninone of its that stood nearly empty but tomorrow is forever.” pancake joints and go-kart rooms. Its general manag- during the cleanup were —Dolly Parton tracks and hotels and mo- er is Gary Bailey. busy again. Almost all tels and outlet malls and “Themountain behind shopsand eateries and at- TO T-shirt emporia. the hotel was completely tractions had reopened, ADVERTISE “I just really felt avisi- on fire,” Bailey said. Gatlinburgispacked with shops and eateries. and those still closed were Inns & CALL: tor to the PigeonForge For more than aweek, expected to be ready soon. Resosorrtsts 215-854-5328 area was our visitor type,” this town of 3,900 —which mostly,asense of relief. ted automobileswere The parkway was back to FAX: 215-854-5572 said Janine Vaccarello, annually funnels 10 mil- “When we came into grim reminders. Black- its usual crawl; sidewalks Directory chief operatingofficer. lion visitors to the nation’s town for the first time, we ened trees and brush told were seasonally busy. “They loveour country, most-visited national park realized, ‘Hey,itwas bad, their own stories. Yes, Gatlinburg was they love military,they —was on lockdown. but on the whole, Gatlin- “It was traumatic to openfor business, and peo- RIVERSIDE TOWER HOTEL - NYC Singles $75; Doubles for 2 $90; Suites $100-$120 love law enforcement, love “You had to show ID to burg is still intact.’ ” see,” Bailey said. “And, of ple were coming back. Lincoln Center area, Hudson River views, 18 flrs, guns —they embrace ex- get in,” Bailey said, “and True, some motels were course, some people lost “Generations of families kitchenette. 5min to midtown. Safe, quiet, luxury area. Riverside Drive &80th St. For more info. actly what we are.” you had to be out by acer- remnants. Many places to their lives —people that havetraveledhere and call 1-800-724-3136 www.riversidetowerhotel.com But on Nov.23, as work- tain time. And that was stay and shops—down- we know.” have memories of their va- ers were tweaking and in- due to safety concerns, town Gatlinburg, more se- Diana Wolfe takes reser- cations here, of throwing stallingfor the planned plusI’m assumingthere date than Pigeon Forge, is vations at Twin CedarCab- rocks in the river and Dec. 16 opening, came the were concerns about peo- primarily shops and little ins in Gatlinburg, where whitewater rafting …and first report of awildfire ple getting in and looting restaurants —sustained two of nine rental cabins having pancakes,” said near Chimney Tops Trail, a some of the businesses smoke damage. were lost.She knowsoth- Marci Claude of the Gatlin- scenic hiking route in the that were closed. On back roads, charred ers were less fortunate. burg Convention and Visi- national park about seven “Wedidn’thave any of houses and cabins were in “It’sadisaster that tors Bureau. “And they miles south of Gatlinburg. that.” evidence. Skeletal bicycles we’re dealing with,” she grieve with you. Days later,with the fire Whattheyhad was, and meltedstoves and gut- said. “People call and say, “And then they support