CC AFRICA Serengeti Ngorongoro Crater Kilimanjaro A national park, an ecosystem, one of the world’s This, the world’s largest intact volcanic caldera, The snowy peaks of Kilimanjaro rising majestically most celebrated wildlife reserves: the unfenced forms a spectacular bowl of about 265 square from fertile green foothills just 330 km south of boundaries of the 15,000 square kilometre kilometres with walls up to 600 metres high. Home the equator have become a powerful motif for expanse of the Serengeti National Park are flanked to around 20,000 to 30,000 wild animals at any one this land of extremes. Africa’s highest mountain by conservation areas and game reserves in an time, it provides a rare chance of watching black is still almost snow-capped, although the familiar exceptional bid to preserve one of the last great rhino in the wild. It is cradled within the Ngorongoro ice cover continues to shrink each year and within migratory systems and the greatest and most varied Conservation Area, inhabited by the Maasai decades may be just a memory. Hans Meyer was the collection of wildlife on earth. The ‘endless plains’ displaced from the Serengeti nearly a century ago. first European to scale the mountain in 1889; now of the Serengeti are the stomping ground of millions over 20,000 climbers a year attempt Kibo, highest of wildebeest and zebra for 9 months of the year; of its three volcanic cones. The route progresses this is wild Africa, alive with energy, a realm of from tropical forest to heath, moorland to alpine endlessly rewarding safaris. desert, to rock and ice fields at the summit.

Lake Manyara Tarangire This shallow lake at the base of the Great South of the plains of southern Maasailand, Rift Valley attracts flocks of flamingos to Tarangire National Park covers 2600 square UGANDA its alkaline waters. Famed for its excellent kilometres of grass and flood plains, acacia birding, butterflies and tree-climbing lions, woodland and dense bush. Dominated by the the park also has an understated diversity Bukoba KENYA Tarangire River, the park thrives in the heat from Lake Musoma of other game: elephants, giraffe, buffalo, Victoria August to October when masses of wildebeest, Ikorongo GR wildebeest, hippo and a vast number of Grumeti GR zebra, buffalo and giraffe migrate to the valley RWANDA Bunda baboons. The habitat varies throughout floor. Resident predators suffer lean months to Lake Namanga with grassy floodplains and thick acacia enjoy these feast days. Impressive elephant herds Burigi GR Serengeti Natron woodland contrasting with the rocky congregate from July to October. Biharamulo Mwanza National Park Mount Kilimanjaro NP escarpments of the Rift. Ngorongoro Crater BURUNDI Nyakanazi Arusha Moshi Lake Eyasi Shinyanga Mahale Lake Manyara Pemba Moyowosi GR National Park North of Unguja, Pemba is a surprisingly The steep, forested slopes of Mahale Mountains Nzega Mkomazi GR large rural island and the main source of National Park are home to approximately 800 Gombe Stream Tarangire National Park ’s cloves. Seaweed farming and of Africa’s remaining wild chimpanzees. Further Kigosi GR National Park Singida even rubber-tapping may also be seen. north, Gombe Stream National Park is the site of Kigoma Kondoa Korogwe Tanga Tabora Pemba Pemba has a unique charm, enhanced by an alternative chimpanzee research programme Island SERENA HOTELS SERENA Maasai, Ngorongoro National Park Uvinza its lack of visitors and local reputation as a in which around 200 chimpanzees are fed and Ugalla River GR Mnemba Island centre for traditional medicines. Separated monitored. Chimp-trekking in Mahale requires Mahale Mountains National Park Zanzibar Island from Zanzibar by the Pemba Channel that stamina, trekking through rich woodlands Mpanda Stone Town Dadoma drops to depths of more than 1000m, this populated by various monkey species and Essential Africa Lake Chalinze is the place for superb diving and deep-sea rewarding, diverse birdlife. Inaccessible by road, Katavi Kisigo GR Mahale Mountains Tanganyika National Park fishing – whales, sharks and manta rays are visitors must fly or arrive by boat from Kigoma, National Park Morogord often seen in the deeper channels. along the southern shores of Lake Tanganyika, the Rungwa GR Ras Kutani Uwanda GR Mikumi Mikumi NP world’s longest and least-polluted fresh water lake. Ruaha Mafia Island National Park Snorkel with iridescent cichlids to conclude an Udzungwa NP Lake Rukwasa Iringa Tanzania exceptional safari experience. Sumbawanga Selous Ifakara Mafia Game FromFew have its stunningreturned from beaches a trip andto Namibia Indian withOcean anything islands other Reserve Once a strategic Indian Ocean trading post Mbeya visited by dhows, Mafia Island became Mahenge Kilwa tothan its supreme magnificent praise. forests, Its serene mountains deserts and and wild, open rugged plains, Katavi Makambako Tanzania’s first Marine Park, and now Tanzanialandscapes has have much inspired to offer. many Annabel an intrepid Skinner traveller,, author but, of provides colourful diving and fishing The wide alluvial plains of Katavi are barely Kyela visited at all, mainly because there are presently opportunities. Just 30 minutes flight from thefor all Cadogan its accessibility, Guide to even Tanzania the most and popular Zanzibar of its, highlights tourist Lake Dar, Mafia is home to rural farming and no permanent camps. Miles off the beaten track, ZAMBIA Nyasa Lindi hotspotsthe best rarelyof the feel country’s crowded natural – for now. marvels Chris andMcIntyre suggests, author itineraries of Namibia: fishing communities whose lives continue Katavi is a remote, classic dry season reserve, Songea thedesigned Bradt Travel to appeal Guide to, introduces travellers one wishing of Africa’s to enjoy hippest an destinationsindulgent luxury superb in the driest months of the year but Masasi Mtwara just as they have for millennia. This is bygetaway, shortlisting a personal its most wildlife compelling adventure attractions or an and exploration suggesting ofthree the unpredictable and partially impassable for the its charm: a virtually unchanged island remainder. The intrepid few who do venture Mbamba Tunduru home with just a few tourist lodges. The Bay itinerarieshistoric and to excitecolourful anyone Swahili from coast.first-time visitors to true old hands. the distances are well rewarded; the park is 0 40 80 120 160km fascinating ruins of Chole island can be home to vast buffalo herds and hippo pods, and 0 25 50 75 100Miles reached by ferry, and further historic links to Unspoilt, charismatic, vast. With fourteen are impressive enough to rival any concentrations of elephant around February. MOZAMBIQUE the ancient ruins of Kilwa and surrounding perNamibia cent of is its a land landmass of superlative dedicated scenery to globalMost alternatives, of the country’s the country’s scenic finer Wildlife disperses but birdlife proliferates following islands are a short flight away. conservationand tremendous areas variety, and a relativelyfrom sinuous small pointshighlights are fascinating and cultural too: attractions the close-knit the short rains in November. numberridges atop of lodges the world’s and camps, highest Tanzania dunes communitiesare easily accessed around on Kilimanjaro, good roads thein

isto thewindswept ideal destination beaches where for a rewarding the icy wild,a 2WD natural hire car; Usambaras, this freedom the strange, to travel CC AFRICA Ruaha Selous and,Atlantic above crashes all, private into the safari seemingly experience. spiritualindependently peace of is Bagamoyo, a real pleasure. the Sundowners in the bush Dhow, Mnemba Tanzania’s second-largest national park, Ruaha, The Selous Game Reserve, the largest protected Whetherendless Namib you’re Desert. a first-time Lush safari-goerpapyrus or remnantsStopping toof astay once at illustrious homely guest past farmsfrom is fabulously under-visited and very worthwhile, wildlife area in Africa, is bigger than Switzerland, aswamps, serious Africa-buff,craggy mountain and whether ranges, your lichen Mafiaor exclusive to Kilwa. lodges Wherever you will you benefit choose to especially when combined with the Selous. A wild and yet has few tourists. Just 5000 visitors a year preferredplains and style rolling is barefoot ranchland adventure complete travel,from well-informed Tanzania draws local you guidesin and insists and and distant safari experience, its dry red-earth experience the accessible northern corner of this orthe luxury picture: all thethe scaleway, andyou’re drama unlikely of the to yougenuine appreciate hospitality, each subtle whilst moment. camping vistas are studded with ancient baobabs and UN World Heritage site, although the lagoons, bewilderness disappointed. alone The is enchanting. country has more allowsTanzanians for complete themselves escapism. share Fly-in a irrigated by the rocky meanderings of the Great sandbanks and lakes of the Rufiji River and Ruaha River. This elemental landscape supports surrounding forests create an exciting ecological thanVisitors enough can to satisfywitness anyone huge with hard-wontrips give sensea unique of national perspective unity. on one of Africa’s largest elephant populations, environment for walking, boating and fly-camping aconcentrations yearning for dramatic of big game landscapes, in Etosha, Culturallythe landscapes diverse, and, they naturally, live shoulder cover plentiful lion prides and thriving packs of African safaris. The spectrum of wildlife is diverse, with expansivefollow in the sunsets footsteps and starlitof dinosaurs nights. togreater shoulder, distances joined at together speed, butby a they hunting dogs. Leopard sightings are frequent, east and southern African fauna, including 440 (literally),While walkits wildlife, around its a petrifiednational parks,forest, commonalso enable language entry to and remote, purpose, less and wonderful antelope action abounds and the park is species of bird and a healthy population of

itssip coral champagne reefs and at sunriseits mountain in a soaring slopes hot- visitorsaccessible are corners welcomed of thewith country. pride. AFRICA CC a birdwatcher’s delight. wild dogs. air balloon, track endangered black rhino Flying and driving offer completely in114 Damaraland, Travel Africa giggle Autumn at meerkat 2006 family different travel experiences, so Autumn 2006 Travel Africa 115 antics in the Kalahari, be enlightened by choosing the right option for your the bushmen’s environmental knowledge trip is critical in determining the and gaze at glittering starlit skies. experiences you will have. Get planning! RAS NUNGWI, FUNDU LAGOON, SERENA HOTELS The Serengeti or Selous, Zanzibar or Mafia? Tanzania has so much to offer, but how to cram it into one itinerary?

N Days 1 to 4: Grumeti Reserves Days 9 to 12: Mnemba Island Grumeti Reserves Experience the ultimate in safari style by flying in Transferring to Mnemba by private speedboat from TA to the Grumeti Reserves, a private tract of 340,000 Zanzibar is an experience in itself, skimming clear hectares bordering the northwestern Serengeti. azure waters past diving dolphin to a desert island From the flagship lodge Sasakwa you can safari idyll. With shell-studded sun-blanched sands and Canoeing on Fundu Lagoon, Pemba Mnemba Islandon horseback, walk, camp, or float in your private a colourful, clear coral reef, with privacy, luxury, Dodoma Zanzibar infinity plunge pool as the sun sets over the diving and drinks all included, Mnemba has all that Serengeti. Play croquet, take time out at the gym or the island connoisseur requires!

pop in for restorative spa treatments between game CC AFRICA drives, returning each night to one of seven very special suites. Days 5 to 8: Zanzibar 0 40 80 120 160km 0 25 50 75 100Miles Zanzibar’s The Palms has six elegant private villas, each with plunge pool and views across the gardens Grumeti Reserves to the sea. Each villa lays claim to a wooden, muslin- Zanzibar curtained beach hut for peaceful sand-side relaxation on a white, powder soft beach. Pad between Women on the beach, Ras Nungwi, Zanzibar Lion branching out, Lake Manyara National Park Katavi massages at the pleasantly Zen-inspired frangipani Indulgent Tanzania Indulgent Mnemba Island spa before returning to sun-dappled lunch bar or Tanzania factfile dining room for fabulous Indian Ocean cuisine. Camping out with a mobile safari ll Language English (official), British Airways Salaam with Kapiri Moshi Find out more Specialist tour operators Kiswahili (national) and tribal (www.ba.com) flies from in Zambia via Mbeya. Tanzania Tourist Board in the UK languages London to Dar es Salaam The Tanzanian Railways www.tanzaniatouristboard.com Tanzania Odyssey Days 1 to 4: Selous Days 11 to 14: Ras Kutani N Time zone GMT+3 three times a week, in about Corporation runs the Central Tanzania National Parks www.tanzaniaodyssey.com Fly to Selous Safari Camp to explore the waterways The peaceful oasis of Ras Kutani is a short flight 9.5 hours (from £600 return). Line from Dar es Salaam to (TANAPA) Simply Tanzania TA International dialling code around the great Rufiji River on foot, by boat and in from Dar. Crafted locally from indigenous wood, The daily BA flight to Nairobi Kigoma, with branch lines to www.tanzaniaparks.com www.simplytanzania.com open safari vehicles. Stay in one of nine luxurious each of the 12 bandas is shrouded in the privacy +255 connects with Kenya Airways Mtwara in the northwest and Tanzania Government Natural High Safaris lakeside tents, or seek alternative accommodation in of the rainforest and overlooks a pristine, deserted Visas UK passport holders flights to Dar es Salaam, Mpanda in the southwest. www.tanzania.go.tz www.naturalhighsafaris.com Dodoma one of eight superb hillside cottages at Beho Beho, or beach. Activities include horse riding and nature require a visa. Cost £38. Zanzibar and Kilimanjaro. Services are extremely slow, Books Safari operators Katavi the stone riverside cottages at Sand Rivers. walking; the perfect end to any trip. Contact: Tanzania High Kenya Airways with taking at least two days Tanzania and Zanzibar Ras Kutani CC Africa Commission, 3 Stratford (www.kenya-airways.com) to cross the country. by Annabel Skinner CC AFRICA Ruaha Days 5 to 7: Ruaha www.ccafrica.com Selous Place, London W1C 1AS, flies from London to Dar Safety Most responsible (2nd ed, Cadogan, 2005) West of the Selous, Ruaha starkly contrasts with its tel 020 7569 1470, es Salaam, Zanzibar and travellers to Tanzania enjoy Nomad Tanzania Tanzania: the Bradt Travel watery neighbour just an hour’s flight away. Small www.tanzaniaonline.gov.uk. Kilimanjaro via Nairobi daily a trouble-free experience, www.nomad-tanzania.com Guide by Philip Briggs tented camps such as Jongomero and Mwagusi provide Visas also available at port (from £645 return). although do take insurance Selous Safari Company (5th ed, Bradt, 2006) 0 40 80 120 160km secluded luxury from which to explore the scorched- 0 25 50 75 100Miles of entry. KLM (www.klm.com) flies and consult the FCO site www.selous.com Zanzibar: the Bradt Travel earth plains. Walks and game drives offer glimpses of Health Consult your GP from London to Dar es Salaam (www.fco.gov.uk) before Amazing Tanzania Guide by Chris McIntyre huge buffalo herds and 20-strong lion prides. Selous for advice. No vaccination and Kilimanjaro daily via you travel. www.amazingtanzania.com (6th ed, Bradt, 2006) Days 8 to 10: Katavi certificates required unless Amsterdam (from £660 return). Ruaha Flying into Katavi is a step into the Africa of old. Chada you are arriving from a country Getting around Katavi Katavi is a six-tent camp located at the forest edge of infected with yellow fever. Air Coastal Travels Right time, right place Authentic Tanzania Authentic the great plains. One of only two camps in the park, it Malaria present so be sure to (www.coastal.cc) flies Ras Kutani The Great Migration provides an authentic experience for true safari-buffs. Migrating wildebeest take anti-malarial prophylactics. to almost every tourist ll The migrating herds are on the move throughout the year, crossing into Kenya AMREF Flying Doctors operate destination in Tanzania, (Masai Mara) between August and October. River crossings are hard to predict, an air ambulance and making internal connections although likely in July and November. In February and March the wildebeest calve; evacuation service. easy. They can also arrange Days 1 to 4: Mafia pristine coral gardens or battle sailfish from the deep. good months for predator action. N Money Tanzania Shilling private charters. Other A time-forgotten archipelago located to the south internal flights are run by Climbing Kilimanjaro TA Days 11 to 14: Pemba (Tsh), UK£1 = 2400Tsh, of Zanzibar, Mafia, with its offshore marine park, The dry months of July to October are best for attempting the famous Uhuru summit. Fly south to Pemba and experience Fundu Lagoon, US$ = 1300Tsh. Travellers is diving and snorkelling paradise. The main island Of the three more popular routes to the top (Marangu, Machame and Rongai), the latter 26 makuti thatch huts along the shoreline and forest. cheques and credit cards (www.precisionairtz.com, has a couple of small luxury lodges, all specialising in two allow a better chance of summiting as they include an extra day on the mountain The lodge has recently been refurbished and proudly widely accepted. US$ in cash (www.regional. Ras Nungwi diving and fishing, including Kinasi Lodge, a fantastic, co.tz) and Zanair (www. for acclimatisation. Dodoma Stone Town takes an active role in the local community. From is more readily convertible discreetly luxurious, palm-fringed hideaway with an here explore Misali Island, nearby sandbars and dive than UK£ in cash. zanair.com), among others. Zanzibar and the beaches ample pool and great dive school. Road A network of roads Best beach times are from July to October when the weather is hot with low humidity, Mafia underwater drop-offs. Costs Beaches and islands,

CC AFRICA connects Dar es Salaam with and December to March which is very hot but with high humidity. Days 5 to 6: Stone Town, Zanzibar per person per day: £15 all regions of the country Fly to Zanzibar and stay in the intimate, charismatic shoestring, £110 mid range, and with Zambia and Kenya. Beyt al Chai, a wonderful converted Zanzibari private £520 top end; safari parks: Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Most main roads are good, Dry season 0 40 80 120 160km home with just 6 rooms overlooking Kelele Square. £85 shoestring, £270 mid 0 25 50 75 100Miles though some are appalling, A perfect location for exploring the myriad passageways range, £940 top end. Rainy season especially to Mtwara in Coolest and Arabic decorations of Stone Town, or arranging day Getting there the south east, or into the Hottest Mafia trips to the nearby Chumbe and Prison Island. Dar es Salaam is the main capital, Dodoma. Take advice Best time in Serengeti Stone Town, Zanzibar hub for flights from Europe regarding driving times. Best time in the southern parks Days 7 to 10: Ras Nungwi, Zanzibar Best time in Tarangire and beyond. Some airlines Train There is a sporadic Ras Nungwi, Zanzibar Drive to Ras Nungwi on the northernmost tip of the island, Best time for diving Indian Ocean Islands Ocean Indian also fly into Zanzibar and a small hotel of 32 rooms stunningly situated on arguably TAZARA (Tanzania-Zambia) Kilimanjaro. the best beach on Zanzibar. Relax on a lounger, dive Sundowners in the bush train service linking Dar es ll

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