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Coast & Heaths Explorer Guide

The Suffolk Coast & Heaths AONB The Suffolk Coast & Heaths Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) is one of Britain’s finest landscapes. It extends from the Stour Estuary in the south to the eastern fringe of and, in the north, to . It covers 403 square kilometres, including wildlife-rich wetlands, ancient heaths, windswept shingle beaches and historic towns and villages. Orford Visiting Orford Key to Map Ordnance Survey Map No. 212 AONB area Explorer Guide Kessingland (Woodbridge and ) Additional project area Lowestoft

Towns and villages A145 Access via the B1078 or B1084 from Key to Map A12 Woodland Beccles the A12. Parking can be limited on AONB area Heathland Additional project area Kessingland very busy days. Main roads Towns and villages A145 Railways/stations A12 Public transport information: Woodland Blyth HeathlandSuffolk Coast Path/Stour and Orwell Walk HalesworthA144 www.suffolkonboard.com or call Main roads Southwold 0845 606 6171 Railways/stationsSandlings Walk River Blyth SuffolkSailor s’Coast Path Path/Stour A1120 Blythburgh Walberswick and Orwell Walk A144 SandlingsYou are Whealkre Dunwich Suffolk Coast & Heaths AONB Sailors’ Path A1120 You are here 01394 384948 Minsmere Saxmundham www.suffolkcoastandheaths.org Framlingham Saxmundham Leiston

Snape Wickham Snape Market River Wickham Aldeburgh Market Alde A12 Rendlesham Orford Explorer has been produced A12 River River with the generous support of Orford OrfordOre Ore

the National Trust at WWoodbridgeoodbridge Orford NessOrford Ness Sutton HooSutton National Nature Reserve. Hoo 01728 648024 Ipswich North Ipswich River North A14 Deben Sea www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ River A14 DebenBawdsey Sea A14 orford-ness Trimley St Mary/ A12 A14St Martin Alton Water Trimley St Mary/ River Orwell OS Licence info. © Crown copyright A12 A137 St Martin Suffolk Coast & Heaths AONB Shotley and database rights 2012 Ordnance Alton Water is a partner of the BALANCE River Stour Survey 100023395. ManningtreeA137 Shotley Harwich project, part-financed by the Mistley Felixstowe River Stour European Union through the Manningtree Interreg IV A 2 Seas Cross- Harwich Mistley border Programme. Enjoy two walks around the fascinating town of Orford

Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty Research, text and some images by Simon Peachey. Additional route checking by Mary and Bishop. Tony Printed on Recycled, Carbon FSC, ECF, Balanced paper. Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty

Orford is a beautiful town on the Suffolk Coast. Streets of red brick Orford cottages surround the dramatic Norman and the ancient church of St Suffolk Coast & Heaths Explorer Guide Bartholomew. Beside the river Ore, the quay faces mysterious Orford Ness.

Highlights of Orford 4 was commissioned by Henry II and completed in 1173. Built to 1 The Quay is a bustling place, with boats assert Henry’s authority over leaving for Orford Ness, children crabbing and the powerful Suffolk Barons, fishermen returning with their catch. Many boats the castle remains today. are drawn up on the shore in front of the black Originally there would have been painted fishing sheds. A a surrounding wall or ‘bailey’. The castle is an effective navigation 2 Orford Ness is a huge bank of shingle built mark for shipping. From the as wave and tide move pebbles down the coast, castle roof you can savour views a process known as ‘long shore drift’. Behind this stretching for many miles. bank marshes and lagoons have formed that are home to wading birds, wildfowl, marsh harrier 5 The town of Orford has and hares. Each year the river mouth at the D fine buildings, many constructed southern end of the shingle spit changes shape. of warm, red brick. The roads The strange pagoda-like structures were used are arranged in a grid pattern, a layout dating from the Norman during the Cold War to develop and test nuclear B E bombs. Orford Ness is owned by the National period. Until the 16th Century, Trust and holds the best preserved area of vegetated shingle in Europe, a fishing and the wool trade globally rare and extremely fragile habitat. The Ore estuary and the Ness have brought prosperity to Orford. international recognition as a nature reserve. However, the growing shingle spit of Orford Ness cut off the harbour and Orford lost its starts life as the River Alde but The River Ore buzzing port. changes its name at Orford. Shingle blocked the Alde’s former estuary at Aldeburgh, forcing it to run parallel to the coast for miles. The 6 St Bartholomew’s Church dates from the mid to late River’s winding has created islands and creeks, 1100s. The oldest section is the ruined Norman chancel. The nave including . This RSPB reserve and tower date from the early 1300s when the church was provides a summer habitat for breeding re-built to accommodate Orford’s growing population. The avocets and terns. In late summer, the salt church remains a beautiful building, with fine stained glass marshes are washed blue and purple by the and a 15th century stone font.

flowers of sea lavender. Images: Front cover – Orford Ness across the river from nr the Quay. A: Orford Quay – boats and bustle. B: Sailing Barge – a common site at Orford. C: Sea Lavender – a beautiful salt marsh plant. D: Orford Castle – the impressive Norman keep. E: St Bartholomew’s Church – dates back to the 1100s. These two walks cross the mysterious marshes before returning to Orford Orford to visit the castle and church. Both walks feature superb views Suffolk Coast & Heaths Explorer Guide of Orford Ness and the winding river.

© Crown copyright and database rights 2012 Ordnance Survey 100023395. Sallow Hole B1084 Town Marshes 6

Broom Covert 4 5 Orford

Gedgrave B1084 Broom Chantry Farms Orford 1 Quay

Across the Marshes to the Castle River and Village Stroll Richmond Sewage Works Farms 2 B Road C Road Orford Ness National 1 ‘Highlights’ Location Chantry Nature Reserve Marshes Parking

3 Public House Orford Castle Orford Church Settlements Marsh Land Dogs are Tide Chantry N Marshes Gauge Point Wooded Areas welcome, please 1000ft keep them under 200m control and on lead as advised ‘Across the Marshes Distance to the Castle’ 4 miles (6.5 km)

Walk along lane until you come to Time: 2 hours wall of High House on left. Opposite Terrain: Paths and tracks, which can end of wall, take footpath that leads be muddy. The path along the river off right. Follow path beside fields and C wall is exposed. Part of route on public across dyke to river wall. Turn right roads. Please be aware of traffic. We and follow path back to quay. recommend high visibility clothing.

A Distance Leave car park and turn left. Walk to ‘River and Village Stroll’ 2 miles (3.5 km) quay and turn right along path beside river. Follow this path along river 1 hour wall towards Chantry point. Round Time: point and follow path as it leads along Terrain: Paths and tracks, which can winding river wall. Ignore path that be muddy. The path along the river leads back across Chantry point. wall is exposed. Part of route on public roads. Please be aware of traffic. We Follow river wall around to left until B recommend high visibility clothing. path turns right and drops down off river wall towards gate. Go through Just before you reach houses gate and follow track inland. When you on right, take track that leads Leave car park and turn left. Walk to reach road, turn right. off left. Just past barn, take the quay and turn right along path path on right up steps through beside river. hedge. Follow path across fields Keep walking along river wall, away to castle. from the town, until you reach path D Walk past impressive castle that leads off right. Take this path as it keep until you reach road. Turn drops down off the river wall and goes When you reach road, turn Countryside left up tarmacked road, passing through gate. Turn right shortly after right. Follow road until hotel. gate, along path that leads inland. road junction, then turn left Code Follow this path past sewage works Walk across Market Hill and between cottages. Pass castle The area has a network of footpaths and and join access track. on left and follow road as it bridleways. We have shown suggested enter churchyard beside King’s routes on this map. Here are a few simple Head Inn. Walk up to church bends to right, passing hotel. suggestions to help you enjoy the area and turn right. E safely and assist our work in caring for it. porch Leave Walk across Market Hill and Follow the Countryside Code: churchyard by second gate and enter churchyard beside King’s Plan ahead and follow any signs turn left along lane (if you want Head Inn. Walk up to church Leave things as you find them to shorten route, walk straight porch and turn right. Leave Protect plants and animals, control fires down road to quay). Follow lane church yard by and take your litter home. for short while, before taking second gate and Dogs are very welcome, but please keep them under close control at all times and first turning right. At end of walk straight on lead as advised. lane, turn left. down road

Thank you. Images: A: The River Ore – a great place for to quay. Find out more about the Countryside Code: sailing. B: Sunflower field – with the River Ore www.countrysideaccess.gov.uk beyond. C: Boats at Orford Quay – ready for the river. D: Orford Castle – the entrance to the ancient keep. E: Flower covered cottages – Orford has many beautiful buildings. F: Thistle flower – provides nectar for bumble bees. F