South East England & Channel Islands Sea Kayaking

Derek Hairon et al. Sheffield

Lincoln

Skegness

25 24 23 22 Nottingham The Wash Derby Hunstanton Cromer

King’s Lynn

Norwich Great Yarmouth Peterborough 21 Lowestoft

Bury St Edmunds Northampton Cambridge

20 Ipswich Banbury Orford Ness Milton Keynes

19 Felixstowe Colchester 18 Luton The Naze Clacton-on-Sea

Oxford

Southend-on-Sea LONDON 15 16 17 Isle of Staines Sheppey 12 14 13 Croydon Margate Ramsgate 11

Dover South Foreland Crawley Folkestone 10 Winchester

Calais

Southampton Dungeness Hastings 1 5 Brighton 9 2 3 7 4 6 Boulogne Littlehampton Eastbourne Portsmouth Beachy Head Selsey Bill 8

Isle of Wight FRANCE 0 10 20 30 40 Kilometres Nautical Miles 0 20 South East England and Channel Islands Sea Kayaking

Derek Hairon, Andy Levick, Mark Rainsley, Mark Gawler, Annie Davis, Guy Smith, John Brett and Kurt Finch

Pesda Press www.pesdapress.com First published in Great Britain 2015 by Pesda Press Tan y Coed Canol, Ceunant Caernarfon, Gwynedd LL55 4RN Wales

Copyright © 2015 Derek Hairon, Andy Levick, Mark Rainsley, Mark Gawler, Annie Davis, Guy Smith, John Brett and Kurt Finch.

ISBN: 978-1-906095-50-5

The Authors assert the moral right to be identified as the authors of this work.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the Publisher.

Maps by Bute Cartographic Printed and bound in Poland, www.lfbookservices.co.uk Introduction

Though geographically close, the two areas covered in this guide are as different in character as it is possible to conceive. The South East of England has a varied landscape of chalk cliffs, pebble beaches, vast expanses of sand, mudflats and river estuaries. At one extreme is the tidal Thames which runs through the densely populated city of London, and at the other is the deserted North Norfolk coast. It is true that some parts of this region are more attractive to sea kayakers than others, but we have been selective. All of the routes in the guide are worthwhile and many of them are real gems. The Channel Islands consist of a small number of large islands and a vast number of islets and reefs. Here we are talking pink granite, white sandy beaches and very strong tidal streams. They are closer to France than to England (a mere 12km between Les Écréhous reef and mainland France) and are in fact what remains of the Duchy of Normandy. The French eventually recov- ered mainland Normandy but the Islands retained their independence and their links with the UK. Most Channel Islanders speak English as their mother tongue, but you will see French and Norman French place names everywhere. Many of the routes here are very committing but there are also a good number of gentler paddles. Enjoy … Introduction

3 Contents

Introduction ...... 3 How to Use the Guide ...... 6 About the Authors ...... 8 Environmental Considerations ...... 9

The South East of England ...... 11 1 Southampton Creeks – Andy Levick ...... 13 2 Portsmouth – Mark Gawler ...... 19 3 Hayling Island – Mark Gawler ...... 27 4 Chichester Harbour – Mark Gawler ...... 33 5 Tidal River Arun – Andy Levick ...... 39 6 Shoreham to Seaford – Guy Smith ...... 45 7 Sussex Ouse – Andy Levick ...... 49 8 Seven Sisters – Guy Smith ...... 55 9 Hastings to Cliff End – Annie Davis ...... 59 10 Folkestone to Kingsdown – Annie Davis ...... 63 11 Stour Estuary & Pegwell Bay – Andy Levick ...... 67 12 Isle of Thanet – Andy Levick ...... 71 13 Isle of Sheppey – Andy Levick ...... 75 14 Lower Medway Estuary – Andy Levick ...... 79 15 The Thames Forts – Mark Rainsley ...... 83

Contents 16 Thames Tideway – Andy Levick ...... 87 17 East Thames Tideway – Andy Levick ...... 93 18 Walton Backwaters – Kurt Finch ...... 97 19 Stour Estuary – John Brett ...... 103 20 Orford Ness – Mark Rainsley ...... 107 21 Norfolk Broads Circuit – Mark Rainsley ...... 113 22 Sheringham to Mundesley – Mark Rainsley ...... 121 23 Blakeney Point – Mark Rainsley ...... 125 24 Brancaster Staithe to Wells – Mark Rainsley ...... 129 25 Hunstanton to Brancaster Staithe – Mark Rainsley . . . . . 133

The Channel Crossing – Mark Rainsley ...... 139

4 The CHANNEL ISLANDS – derek hairon ...... 143 1 St Helier to Gorey ...... 149 2 Gorey to Bonne Nuit ...... 155 3 St Catherine to Les Écréhous ...... 161 3a Les Écréhous to Carteret (Normandy) ...... 165 3b Anneport (Jersey) to Le Sénéquet light (near Gouville sur Mer, Normandy) ...... 166 3c Le Sénéquet light (near Gouville sur Mer, Normandy) to Les Écréhous ...... 166 4 La Grève de Lecq to Bonne Nuit Bay ...... 167 5 La Grève de Lecq to Les Pierres de Lecq ...... 173 6 La Grève de Lecq to La Corbière ...... 177 7 Belcroute to La Corbière ...... 183 8 Le Ouaisné to Les Minquiers ...... 189 8a Les Minquiers to Chausey (Normandy) ...... 195 9 Jersey to Chausey (Normandy) ...... 197 9a Chausey to Granville (Normandy) ...... 201 10 Jersey to Sark ...... 203 11 Sark ...... 209 12 Jersey to Guernsey ...... 215 13 Havelet to Petit Bôt Bay ...... 219

14 Portelet to Petit Bôt Bay ...... 223 Contents 15 Portelet to L’Ancresse Bay ...... 227 16 Guernsey to Sark ...... 233 17 Guernsey to Herm and Jethou ...... 239 18 Herm ...... 243 19 Jethou ...... 247 20 Guernsey to Alderney ...... 251 20a Alderney to Baie d’Écalgrain (Normandy) ...... 255 21 Alderney ...... 257

Sea Kayaking in France ...... 263

Index of Place Names ...... 267

5 6 How to Use the Guide chapter chapter The ChannelIslands. charts. different tocopewiththeneedfor mapsandnautical slightly These are detailedinthe mapsandtheknowledge tousethem.Ordnance Survey The ChannelIslandssection differs To usetheguideyou therelevant area, needanup-to-datetidetimetablefor will theappropriate toUseHow theGuide tion: grade ofdifficulty,trip name, symbols, route trip number. and - informa detailsbeginning withthefollowing of pertinent Each route beginswithanoverview Using theTidal &RouteInformation Each of the trip chapters issetoutintosixsections: chapters Each ofthetrip interest area. ifinthelocal complement andotherusefulmaps)thatwill thetrip, Charts Admiralty orbeof Additional Information– (including information This section provides further landing places, points ofinterest andtidalinformation. Map ofRoute– This provides avisualoutlineofthe route’s points, start/finish takesthetides,which knowledge weather andlocal intoconsideration. Tides andhow &Weather tidalinformation besttoplanthetrip further –Offering andplacesinformation ofinterest tovisit. the coastline, points, launching/landing and environment, the wildlife historical Description – including detailandinformation on thetrip This provides further andwhettheappetite. thetrip from Introduction – of what to expect This is designed to give the overview reader a brief know’ on toplanthetrip. information which Tidal &RouteInformation– theThis isdesignedasaquick referenceforall ‘must trip tobe viable. trip water conditions. thisconsidered, With may require thejourney good conditions the for and conditions, therefore require to be competent inrough detailedplanningandpaddlers on these trips. be found all will swell and surf exposed to the weather be will very They sections ofthetrip. Fast tidalmovement, tidal races, overfalls, extendedcrossings, ocean easy topredict withnomajortidalraces oroverfalls. extreme conditions andoceanswell.shelter from tidalmovement may befound, Some but Grade C Grade B Grade A found onfound thesetrips. alsobeexposedtothe will weather andassociatedconditions.They be expected. movement,Tidal tidalraces, overfalls, crossings, may be oceanswell andsurf | |

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Some awkward routesSome landingsandsections ofcoastlinewithnoescape should These trips will have difficult landings and will have no escape havewill for will difficultlandings and have noroutes long These trips Relatively easy landings with escape routes easily available. routes easylandingswithescape easily Relatively relative Offering HW/L Finish Start T OS Sheet Distance Coastguard Max RateSp T idal Port idal T RouteSymbols Map Symbols W imes

Name oftherelevant Coastguard Station. O X attained on tide. theaverage spring The areas thetidalstreams inwhich are fastestandthemaximum speedinknots stream flowing in highwater. flows andthetime itstarts relation tothetidalport orarea oftidalstream movement,Location thedirection thetidal towhich andthetidalport. trip nearest tothe The highand/orlow ports watertimedifference between local be tidetimetableswill for which required to workThe port outthetidalstreams. maprequired. 1:50,000Landranger Number ofOrdnanceSurvey Total thetrip. distancefor major counter-current Max RateatSprings time relativetoTidal PortHW tidal streamdirection alternative route described route portage possible escape waypoint finish &alternative start &alternative map symbol, nameandsix-figure grid reference offinishing point. map symbol, nameandsix-figure point. grid reference ofstarting

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7 How to Use the Guide About the Authors

Channel Islands – Derek Hairon

Derek Hairon is a BCU Level 5 sea kayak coach and has paddled throughout the Channel Islands for over 42 years. In 1978 he completed the first circumnavigation of Ireland by kayak and has subsequently undertaken expeditions to Alaska, Nova Scotia, Faeroe Islands, Aland Islands, Brittany, whitewater rivers in Nepal, and most of the classic UK sea kayaking destinations. Recognising the growth of sit-on-top kayaking he wrote the guide Sit-on-Top Kayak. He owns Jersey Kayak Adventures and runs a range of sea kayak introductory and advanced courses plus guided coastal sea kayak tours.

South East England

The impetus for this section of the guide was originally provided by Chris Wheeler, whose enthusiasm and commitment to kayaking knew no bounds. On his untimely death on the River Dart others stepped into the breach, and the South East England section was a combined effort involving seven different contributors. They are (in order of the number of routes contributed): Andy Levick, Mark Rainsley, Mark Gawler, Annie Davis, Guy Smith, John Brett and Kurt Finch. To see who contributed a particular route please refer to the contents on page 4. About the Authors

8 Environmental Considerations

Respect the interests of other people Acting with courtesy, consideration and awareness is essential. If you are exercising access rights, make sure that you respect the privacy, safety and livelihood of those living and working in the outdoors, and the needs of other people enjoying the outdoors. Even jet skiers. Care for the environment Sea kayakers are privileged to access remote places that others cannot. Many of these places have sensitive plant, animal and bird life. Be aware of, and respect, landing restrictions around nature reserves. Look after the places you visit, enjoy the land and leave it as you found it. Natural England (www.naturalengland.org.uk) has created magic.defra.gov.uk, a source of incredibly detailed maps outlining protected habitats and sites (does not cover the Channel Islands). The Marine Conservation Society (www.mcsuk.org) offers advice on how to act appropriately around marine wildlife. Wild camping This guide provides information on many commercial campsites. Although most are pleasant places, if you value solitude and silence treat anything with ‘holiday park’ in the title with caution. The authors of this guide camp ‘wild’ whenever a commercial site is unavailable, and have almost always been able to find an appropriate spot, with a little thought. Wild camping provides a special experience and forms an integral part of sea kayaking. There is no legally enshrined right to camp on the English coast, and areas in the south east and the Channel Islands that obviously lend themselves to wild camping for sea kayakers are limited. Large groups hoping to put up numerous tents are probably in the wrong region; think discretion and low profile. If you decide to include a wild camp in your journey plans, choose a location away from dwellings and roads. Arrive late and do not pitch your tent until dusk. You should take down your tent early the following morning. “Leave nothing but footprints and take nothing but photographs.”

Warning Sea kayaking is inherently a potentially dangerous sport. The sea is one of the most com- mitting and unforgiving environments. Conditions on the sea can change quickly and dramatically. When planning to venture out on any of the trips described in this book, ensure that your knowledge, experience, ability and judgement are appropriate to the seriousness of the trip. The authors recommend acquiring appropriate training and advice from experienced and qualified individuals. Environmental Considerations The information in this book has been thoroughly researched; however the authors and publisher can take no responsibility, if tidal times differ or if the information supplied is not sufficient to negotiate the conditions experienced on the day. The outdoors cannot be made risk-free and you should plan and act with care at all times, for your own safety and that of others. The decision on whether to go out sea kayaking or not, and any conse- quences arising from that decision, remain yours and yours alone.

9 10 Beachy Head Lighthouse | Tony Sandry Bosham village church and slipway | Mark Gawler with the backdrop of the Sussex Downs.with thebackdrop share oftheSussex theharbour summerweekends you’ll During sailing Mecca. sheltered offers The harbour paddling, of historic, withviews picturesque villages (AONB) Natural Beauty haven anda Area isawildlife Harbour ofOutstanding Chichester Introduction DC

Chichester Harbour Harbour Chichester Coastguard Max RateSp Tidal Times HW/LW Finish Start Tidal Port No. 4 | GradeA | 17km Ch14 Call‘ChichesterHarbourRadio’. urgent calls.)VHFweatherCh86andCh23at0130localtime,repeated every 3hours. Solent, tel. 023 9255 2100, VHF Ch67, (Ch16 should only be usedfor emergency and 2.4 knots(6.4ChichesterHarbourentrance). HW/LW atChichesterHarbourentrance.SlackwatercoincideswithHW/LW. Tide timeswithin theharbourarewithinamaximumoffifteenminutesdifferencefrom after, HWPortsmouth.LW springsandneapsare20minutesafterLW Portsmouth. At ChichesterHarbourentrance,HWspringsis10minutesbefore,andneaps are5minutes O X Portsmouth Dell Quay(SU834028) Emsworth (SU748055) | OSsheet197 38 33 Chichester Harbour 4 4 34 Chichester Harbour between Hayling and between Hayling Island,Thorney reaching 2knots. by theSweare Deep. flow swift can produceThe combinationchannels asurprisingly ofthese most oftheway to Fowley Island. ofFowley North Island, thewest isjoinedfrom thechannel be seen, towards mostnotably LW whentheFisherman’s Walk isvisible. ran causeway once This wooden boats are often beingrestoredwooden boatsare often here. (oneFlour Mill ofEmsworth’sOld The two andtheboatyard tidemills) (SU753056); beautiful oftheharbour. inthewestern part oftrips avariety point for to theriver exploring Itisworth restaurants.exclusive oyster fleet.boat ofthe Victorian few associatedwithsailinganda ismostly Now Emsworth moored here;is often asailing boatbuiltaround 1890, tobethelastremaining sheisbelieved once amajorport, thecentre oyster fisheries, for andhome toanumberofshipbuilders. Terror Harbour. ofChichester picturesque corner isasmall townEmsworth atthenorth-western Itwas Description October toMarch. wildfowl, species. their numbers boosted byfrom overwintering Brent Geese litter the mud flats appreciate theharbour’s atitsbest; beauty natural itisalsothebesttimetoseewaders and with hoards ofdinghies, andkeelboats. windsurfers beableto Inautumnandwinteryou’ll Heading towards the Although theslipway isnotaccessible statesofthetide, atall makesagood starting Emsworth Emsworth Channel,Emsworth to is still oyster industry of the former the evidence

Emsworth Key and Slipway | Mark Gawler is amajorredeeming feature. The islandhasbeenconnected tothemainlandsince1870; the Nicholas at and thebeautifulChurch ofSt West on theeastofisland) (confusingly Thorney compounds this image! further graffiti onthe seawall part of the is Thorney however AONB To theeastis

contamination. Oyster sales immediately slumped and the industry never recovered. never contamination. slumpedandtheindustry salesimmediately Oyster oysters. toeatingEmsworth attributed Inspection oftheoyster bedsrevealed gross sewage typhoid diedfrom andtheDeanof ill Winchester banquetbecame a Winchester ... of1902. Scare end by untilitwas brought theGreatto anabrupt Oyster at Guests pre-dates which Roman times. industry former was the centre Emsworth of the industry dredge still A handfuloffisherman for intheharbour, oysters butthisisashadow ofthe Oysters Sweare Deep Sweare Hayling Island Emsworth

Chichester

Fowley Island Emsworth Channel Emsworth Harbour IRB Sta Thorney Island,Thorney from thesea. ableakanddesolateplace The‘Welcome to Hell’ orney Island orney A27 Great Deep

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2.8kn SP East Head

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6.4kn SP Pilsey Prinsted Landing Roman orney Channel Cobnor Point West Wittering Ch ic he st e r

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Birdham A27 Birdham 0 0 Chichester Pool Pool 1 Dell Quay 1 2 35 Chichester Harbour 4 4 36 Chichester Harbour exploring onisstrongly discouraged. foot exploring therare sometimes littletern breed here. including tern layThe terns theireggs on shingle, so ofunusualplants,habitat ishome to animpressive variety spidersandinsects. Three speciesof Attached peninsulaof tothesouthern Island causeway,Thorney by a theisland’s undisturbed explore thecreeks through the saltmarshestowards Roman Landing. to the opensea.close East Head, Departing diversion muddy is to but entertaining a potentially endis southern The Hinge (SZ765984), where are thesaltmarshesofharbour perilously excellent place alegstretch. tostopfor The walk round thesandspitisabout2.5km. At the Solent. whenitpointedsouth-west intothe sincethe18thcentury has moved significantly living here, andnestinginthedunesare plover, ringed andmeadow skylark pipit. The sandspit as seaholly,plants such seabindweed grass. andmarram There are scarce invertebrates several coast. An SSSImanaged by theNational Trust, adapted maritime specially itshabitat supports Head, mobilesanddunefeature, animportant on thesouth sand dunesbeingsomething of a rarity tobechallenged,kayak isunlikely providing you don’t stray inland. Coast Pathwalk the Sussex round of the island and visit the church. the perimeter by Landing an MODbase. Access iscontrolled by ‘signing in’ gates. atthesecurity Walkers are to permitted marshhabitat. acoastalgrazing landforming of reclaimed oftheGreat Deep, South theislandis nestingwadersEames Farm for andwildfowl, siteintheharbour isthemostimportant anarea the mainland are now regulated by sluicegates. that once the island from channels separated Heading north-east up the Chichester Channel, uptheChichester Heading north-east Island. Pilsey istheRSPBreserve tothenorth tipofEastHead yachtsinthesummer. provides for abusyanchorage The northern Itisan To thesouthof isEast entrance Harbour Island sideofChichester on theeastern Thorney

Anchorage at East Head | Mark Gawler Slipway and church at Bosham village | Mark Gawler Chichester Cathedral, the only cathedral visible from anEnglishharbour. Cathedral, ofChichester unique view visiblefrom cathedral theonly huge numbersof birds. toget a 1.5kmbeyond Quay Dell continuing a further for Itisworth been restored. The large, isoflittleinterest paddler. Marina tothe discerning Chichester modern for houseboatmoorings, thefirst2.5kmasitisused gable for has branch Chichester butthe short pools; tidalmill lock. standsattheentrance buildingstill theoldmill late 1930sfrom inEngland,Birdham marina Pool thefirstpurpose-built wasreputedly marina inthe developed from expensive-looking houses.by hards cross anumberofprivate andjettieswhich themud flats hard statesofthetide. provides pointatall atItchenor alaunch is alleged tohave drowned inthemillstream atthechurch. andtohave beenburied tower istheoldestpart. The legend ofKingCanutealso relates toBosham, theKing’s daughter say is history. The Holy Sussex; in church is the prominentSaxonone of theearliest Trinity atthechurchbefore sailingon1064missionpraying hisill-fated toNormandy; therest asthey the road toitfloodsnear HW.features Bosham intheBayeux Tapestry, showing KingHarold villageofBosham.historic There isa slipway here, statesofthetideexceptaccessible atall when leads orlandingatPrinsted. Channelwhich tothealternative launch Thorney The channel becomes more rural inthefinalstretch Quay.channel becomesrural toDell The more This quietersection attracts Lock. Salterns The at Canal enters the harbour and Arundel Portsmouth canal is not navi- The continuechannelalmostasfarBirdham upthe The moorings Pool, shore obstructed thenorth Continuing Reach, eastintoItchenor isflanked thechannel by yacht moorings. Theshingle Chidham (Cobnor Point)After is the Bosham Channel, leads which to the picturesque and Channelisa2kmlineofbroken oftheChichester North piles, briefly by the interrupted 37 Chichester Harbour 4 4 38 Chichester Harbour ble; at other times a longer carry totheslipwayble; Bridge. atthebaseofeast sideoftheLangstone atothertimesalonger carry except LW springs. Three hourseithersideofHWtheslipway carparkadjacent is tothe accessi- and slipway (SU835028). Limitedroadside parking. area attheendofPrinsted Lane, (SU765050). Southbourne Limitedroadside parking. tide. theslipway. Pay park anddisplay 200mfrom car HW mark. Pay park anddisplay invillage 200maway. car good timingyou don’tWith theboat! (SU 805038). have tocarry Free parking on theroad below your onto the quay, car the road at HW as the road it’s free. floods. from but otherwise Launch the slipway (SU749055). Pay park anddisplay intown car 100maway. parks: pointsandcar Launching Additional information and/or Itchenor. can bedoneThe shuttleis 2.5km footpaths. almostentirely on foot and by toPrinsted oneEmsworth way 14km(viaEastHead) trip, –ashort viaEastHead optionally Variations is conveniently located justbehindthequay.is conveniently located in Britain. the remains of the Roman Palace, the largest collection of in-situ Roman mosaics includes which www.emsworthheritageproject.org.uk history –local www.emsworthonline.co.uk information –local www.conservancy.co.uk Conservancy Harbour –Chichester Langstone: Free park at car Langstone.Ship at The statesofthetide possibleatall Launching hard ashinglelaunch ispossiblethree hourseithersideofHWfrom Launching Quay: Dell shingle launching a small Prinsted: is possible two hours either side of HW from Launching ashinglehard orslipway statesofthe (SU799014)atall ispossiblefrom Itchenor: Launching theslipway; you becharged ifyou will take Bosham: statesofthetidefrom atall Launching slipway:Emsworth Accessible HW+/-3hr, loading/unloading on permitted thehard shore by Emsworth to Bosham 15km (viaEast Head);Emsworth there is better parking Quay. at Bosham thanDell Dell Quay has a quiet boatyard andquay hasaquietboatyard on shore, theeastern Quay Dell and The CrownPub and Anchor isFishbourne.At thetopofharbour Althoughnotaccessible by kayak, visiting itisworth 21 Cap de la Hague

Auderville 20 Jobourg Alderney 20a

Vauville Cherbourg

Guernsey Les Pieux 15 Herm 17 18 St Peter Port 19 Sark 16 11 14 13 Carteret

10 3a Portbail 12 5 Les Écréhous 3c 4 2 3 St-Germain-Plage 6 Jersey St Helier Pirou-Plage

7 1

Gouville-sur-Mer 3b Le Sénéquet

8 Hauteville-Plage Mâitresse Île Plateau des Minquiers 9 8a

9a Îles Chausey Granville

St-Jean- le-Thomas

Rotheneuf St-Malo Le-Mont- Sables-d’Or- Dinard St-Michel les-Pins Le Val-André St-Jacut 0 10 20 Kilometres Nautical Miles St-Brieuc 0 10 Front Cover – Sunrise, while crossing from Alderney to Guernsey. Photo: Mark Rainsley Back Cover – Red Sands Fort, Thames Estuary. Photo: Mark Rainsley.

South East England & Channel Islands Sea Kayaking

Though geographically close the two areas covered in this guide are as different in character as it is possible to conceive.

The South East of England has a varied landscape of chalk cliffs, pebble beaches, vast expanses of sand, mudflats, and river estuaries. At one extreme the Tidal Thames runs through the densely populated City of London and at the other the deserted North Norfolk coast.

The Channel Islands are a small number of large islands and a vast number of islets and reefs. Here we ISBN 9781906095505 are talking pink granite, white sandy beaches and very strong tidal streams. They are closer to France than to England (a mere 12km between Les Écréhous reef and mainland France). Many of the routes here are very committing but there are also a good number of 9 781906 095505 gentler paddles.