1 EASTERN AIRWAYS IN-FLIGHT

Yours to keep 59 | Spring 2017

SPRING TIME Daffodils on the North York Moors

ALSO IN THIS MAGAZINE: HEBRIDEAN HOLIDAY FURNITURE FROM A FIELD ABERDEEN AND ABERDEENSHIRE SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT

WELCOME SGIOBA EASTERN SGIOBA EASTERN chluinntinn. againn, ismuarn-iris, a beachdan munt-seirbheis an-còmhnaidh toilichteur eadar-dhealaichte –thasinn cùramach agusbeagan seirbheis, andàchuid, dòchas gummeassibhar clàraichte naRA.Thasinnan prìomh làn-sheirbheiseanadhair Airwaysammeasg Tha Eastern Eòrp. bho Bhreatainn agusanRoinn air arluchd-cleachdaidhgulèir Airwaysa’curfàilte Tha Eastern FÀILTE Welcome to Eastern Magazine! Airways Airways routes servingtheIsleofMan,BelfastCity, Glasgow In ournewspagesyoucanfindoutallaboutnewEastern shape. makes furnitureoutoflivingtrees thatare custom-grown to Kevin Pilleyisalsoonthetrailofanentrepreneur: this one bubbling awayonHarris. Harris andSkyeuncoversarichentrepreneurial spirit Aberdeenshire rumandStanAbbottvisitstheIsles ofLewis, Still inScotland,JaniceHoppergetstotrythelocal supplement onthearea. Aberdeenshire tobringyouaspecialeight-page of Aberdeen andwe’re pleasedtocooperatewith Visit Our specialfocusthisissueisonourmainbasecity Airways Magazine. to thisSpringissueofEastern Welcome onboard Airwaysflight and welcome yourEastern TÎM EASTERN am eincylchgrawn. sylwadau ameingwasanaethac amser ynfalchogaeleich yn wahanol–rydynnibob yn ungofalusacychydigbach gwelwch chifodeingwasanaeth wasanaethau. Gobeithioy DU sy’ncynnigamserlenlawno prif gwmnïauawyrennau yn y Airwaysymhlith y Mae Eastern Brydain FawracEwrop. cwsmeriaid ymmhobrhano magazine, ibobuno’n Croeso Airways ganEastern CROESO EASTERN-TEAMET servicen ogmagasinet. dine kommentarer ombåde Vi setteralltidprispååmotta ekstra somerprikkenoveri-en. – ogatdentilbyrdegdetlille være medservicenvår fornøyd ruteflyselskap. Vihåperatduvil Storbritannias ledende Airwayseretav Eastern velkommen. Storbritannia ogEuropa ønsker våre kunderi Airwaysmagasinet Eastern VELKOMMEN friends toread. encourage youtotakeyourmagazinehomeforfamilyand We Airwaysand hopeyouenjoyyourflightwithEastern locations featured inthenewArthuriancinemaepic. Closer tohome,ourEssentialGuidevisitssomeofthe the stateofIraq. century forgotten heroine, GertrudeBell,whohelpedshape Exploration Express thisissuefindsoutallaboutthe20th Abergavenny. while VickiTrott sampleshospitalityinthefoodietownof Olly DavyfacesabattleforsurvivalontheSouthDowns, Southampton toRodez,insouthwestFrance. and Anglesey, aswellanewsummerservicefrom L’ÉQUIPE EASTERN et notre magazine. comment­ toujours heureux derecevoir vos fait ladifférence, etsommes besoins, aveccepetitplusqui trouverez attentifs àvos Nous espérons quevousnous un servicedevolsréguliers. aériennes britan­ principales compagnies AirwaysfigureEastern parmiles magazine. Airways de lapartEastern Grande-Bretagne etd’Europe Bienvenue àtousnosclientsde BIENVENUE THE EASTERN TEAM EASTERN THE aires sur notre service niques offrant niques offrant

CONTENTS CONTENTS

24 SURVIVAL SKILL 16 ROOM WITH A VIEW 39 ARTHUR WAS HERE?

REGULARS COMPETITION FEATURES

07 NEWS 12 GROWTH INDUSTRY What’s happening around Eastern Kevin Pilley finds fantastic Airways destinations furniture growing in a field

08 HOSPITALITY NEWS 16 HEBRIDEAN HOLIDAY What's happening in the world of Stan Abbott enjoys an out-of- food, drink and hotels season trip to the isles of Lewis, Harris and Skye 10 MOTORING Norman Burr reviews driverless 21 HARRIS IS HOT cars The entrepreneurial spirit is alive and well on the Hebridean isle 28 EXPLORATION EXPRESS Stan Abbott visits Redcar and the 23 TIME FOR TEA North York Moors Victoria Trott stays at the award- 27 TASTE THE HIGH LIFE winning Angel Hotel, in 30 BARE ESSENTIALS WIN a fantastic break at Abergavenny Eastern Airways’ network map, Highland Apartments in passenger information, essential Inverness plus a round of golf 24 SURVIVING THE COURSE goings-on and destination guides at one of the world’s oldest Olly Davy has a go at backwoods courses living 39 ESSENTIAL GUIDE: LAND OF LEGEND Locations associated with the ABERDEEN  &ABERDEENSHIRE legend of King Arthur AN EASTERN AIRWAYS MAGAZINE SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT IN PARTNERSHIP WITH VisitAberdeenshire

42 THE LAST WORD Harry Pearson champions the highland sport of shinty AWAY FROM IT ALL Inspirational escapes and urban delights in Scotland’s wonderful North East SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT Fly easternairways.com i ABERDEEN AND ABERDEENSHIRE

Eastern Airways in-flight magazine is published © March 2017. All rights reserved. No part of this Eastern Airways, Schiphol House, Humberside for Eastern Airways by Gravity Magazines, Arch magazine may be reproduced by any means, without prior International Airport, Kirmington, North Lincolnshire Workspace, Abbey Road, Pity Me, Durham, DH1 5JZ written permission of the copyright owners. DN39 6YH www.gravity-consulting.com Although every effort has been made to ensure the Communications Manager: Darren Roberts e-mail: [email protected] accuracy of the information in this magazine, neither the Tel: +44 (0)191 383 2838 publisher, nor Eastern Airways can accept any liability for Telephone: + 44 (0)8703 669669 errors or omissions. Reservations: + 44 (0)8703 669100 Publisher: Stan Abbott www.easternairways.com Design: Barbara Allen ISSN: 2044-7124 For magazine comments: Print: Buxton Press Previously known as e-magazine, ISSN 1477-3031. Front cover: Daffodils at Farndale © North Moors York National Park. Photo Mike Nicholas. right Top image: Alnwick Castle, © VisitBritain / Britain on View. [email protected]

To advertise in Eastern Airways Magazine, call Liz Reekie on +44 (0) 7563 796103 / +44 (0) 1434 240947 or email [email protected] Oil & Gas UAE2017 Regional & international business opportunities 23 May • Dusit Thani, Abu Dhabi, UAE

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113887-Oil and Gas UAE 2017 Ad_180mm W x 122mm H_D4.indd 1 20/02/2017 10:40 NEWS FROM EASTERN AIRWAYS DESTINATIONS NEWS The new routes mark a return to both the The newroutes markareturn toboththe and June3,4,1011. Services willoperateonMay27and28, Isle ofManduringtheTTracingseason. Newcastle, GlasgowandBelfastwiththe on Saturdays andSundays willlink In afurthermove,weekendservice to Glasgow, duetostartonMay2. a newservicefrom theIsleofMan The airlinesubsequentlyannounced supported bytheWelsh Government. between AngleseyandCardiff, whichis also tookoverthetwice-dailyservice separate negotiations,theairline both IsleofManroutes while,following Airwaysmovedquicklytosecure Eastern of Man-basedCitywing. in March, followingtheliquidationofIsle Newcastle, andfrom AngleseytoCardiff, from theIsleofMantoBelfastCityand The airlinebeganoperatingservices domestic routes. destinations toitsportfolioofUK Airwayshasaddedfournew Eastern NEW DESTINATIONSNEW AIRWAYS FROM EASTERN n Thewinner ofawinterbreak atBlue ReefCottagesin ourcompetition inourNewYear issuewasStuartAnderson, from Anstruther, Fife. CONNECTIONS FRENCH best keptpicturesque secrets. Flights department, which isoneofFrance’s Rodez isthecapitalofAveyron west ofFrance,from June2. Southampton toRodez,inthesouth twice-weekly summerservicefrom Airwayswilloperatea Eastern

quickly.” between providers hashappened so in makingsure thisnecessary transition RAF atValley fortheirsupportandhelp Cardiff andAngleseyairportsthe Airways, theCivilAviation Authority, Mr Skatessaid:“IamgratefultoEastern CityWing. cancelled followingtheclosure of announcement, allserviceshadbeen Airport (Valley) andCardiff. Priortohis subsidised servicelinkingAnglesey Airwayswouldtakeoverthe Eastern Secretary, KenSkates,announcedthat The Welsh Government’s Economy explore furtheropportunities.” back inGlasgowagain,andwewillalso of Manandweare nowpleasedtobe been toprotect vitalroutes from theIsle Airways,said:“Ouraimhas for Eastern Mathew Herzberg, HeadofCommercial 2004 to2009. services toandfrom theIsleofManfrom Airways. Theairlinepreviously operated Isle ofManandtoGlasgowforEastern opened recently and is dedicated to the opened recently andisdedicatedtothe acclaimed Musée Soulages,which Rodez isalsohometothehighly candidate UnescoWorld HeritageSite. and thenearbyvillageofConques isa Aveyron isrichinmedieval history 1120 onFridaysand1515Mondays. Mondays. Services departRodezat at 0820onFridaysand1130 take 90minutesandleaveSouthampton Snaefell MountainRailway, Isle ofMan

Station, London. is justanhourby trainfrom Waterloo from LeedsBradford, whiletheairport connections atSouthamptontoand to Southampton.There are also service from RodeztoMilan,inaddition Orly andisalsooffering asummer service betweenRodezandParis Airwaysoperatesafrequent Eastern most celebratedcontemporaryartists. work ofPierre Soulages,one ofFrance’s stall for 2021 Sunderland sets outits city’s formerJoplingsdepartmentstore. convert thefirsttothird floorsofthe And SanguineHospitalityhasplansto at KeelSquare. for thedevelopmentofafour-star hotel Group Cairn hassubmittedaproposal headquartered hospitalityoperator. The acquire twonewhotels.Newcastle- Meanwhile, thecitycentre could College ofMusicandDrama,inCardiff. previous workincludestheRoyalWelsh the iconicSageGateshead,andhis Flanagan, whowasproject director for the designofauditoriumisJason The award-winning architect behind seat mid-scaleartsvenue. enable thecreation ofanadjacent450- dance anddramastudio–thegrantwill a restaurant, café,heritagecentre and Station –neartheEmpire Theatre –into £3million transformationoftheOldFire With workalready underwayonthe the creation ofanewculturalquarter. grant thatwillenablethenextphasein announced a£6millionArtsCouncil Music, ArtsandCulture Trust inFebruary towards completion,theSunderland to thewestofcitycentre, edges As thenewbridgeoverRiverWear, infrastructure inplace. is workinghard toensure ithasthe the UK’s nextCityofCulture, in2021– The cityofSunderland–aspiringtobe Artist’s impression of the Auditorium 7 8

FOOD AND DRINK

David Parry HOSPITALITY NEWS What the Romans didfor us…What ‘SPARKLING’ MALT SINGLE wines,” says thecompany, which has producing award-winning sparkling emerging area ofthewineworld, the Englishwinesceneisanexciting grapevine toEngland’s shores andtoday “The Romanswere thefirsttobring its 2017brochure. Clarke isfeaturinganEnglishholiday in Wine tourismspecialistArblaster & American white oak Matusalem oloroso American whiteoakMatusalemoloroso Dalmore 50hasbeenmatured in released, hand-filledon order, The With upto50speciallycrafteddecanters to eachyearofhisillustriouscareer. Highland distilleryinAlnessasatribute meticulously craftedattheDalmore The limitededitionwhiskyhasbeen industry. Paterson’s halfcenturyinthewhisky malt tomarkMasterDistillerRichard champagne-finished 50-year-old single exceptionally rare DomaineHenriGiraud “definitive luxurymalt”has released the The Dalmore, whichcallsitselfthe embellish itwithahintofchampagne? And, justforgoodmeasure, whynot whisky tomarkagoldenanniversary… There’s nothinglikea50-year-old malt www.winetours.co.uk expert wineguide. wine, visitsandtastings, alongwithan boutique guesthouse,mostmeals, and includestwonightsinafour-star vineyards willrunfrom April27-29 The three-day tourofSussexandKent world formore than30years. been runningwineholidaysallover the A mere £50,000. How much,didIhearyouask?To you? occasions,” saidRichard. drink issynonymouswithcelebratory champagne cask,asthismagnificent a chose tofinessethiswhiskyin “This isaspecialyearformesoI exceptional expression. of woodneededtocreate thewhisky’s casks gavePatersonthefinalflourish still mature itswinesincasksandthese one oftheonlychampagnehousesto Domaine HenriGiraudfamilyestateis casks from DomaineHenriGiraud. finesse for50daysinrare champagne of Portugal,before undertaking afinal Colheita pipesfrom theDouro region Gonzalez ByassBodegaandport sherry casks,from therenowned the thousandsofvotes. Leeds, totakemore than40 percentof in Manchester, Monk,in andNorthern Beavertown, inLondon,Cloudwater, and Wylamsawoff competition from Awards. Voting wasbyaTwitter Poll Choice voteatTheIndependentBeer Independent Brewery inthe People’s Park –hasbeencrowned Best Palace ofArtsinthecity’s Exhibition which recently movedintotheformer n Newcastle-basedWylamBrewery – accessible passioninvestment.” rare whiskyamore popularandmore value hasaddedfurtherliquidity, making continued growth inbothvolumeand signs ofmaturitywithinthemarket.The Scotch andwe’re beginningtosee been anotherexceptionalyearforrare Simpson commented:“2016has founder ofRare Whisky101,Andy Whisky investmentanalystandco- geopolitical change. interest rates,andtheuncertaintyof forex rate(foroverseasbuyers),low volatile marketconditions,favourable behind thisincreased liquidity, including The report identifiesanumberoffactors Yamazaki, whichwentfor£62,600. auction intheUKwasa50-year-old The mostexpensivebottletosellat per centto58,758. malt soldatauctionincreased by35.21 while thenumberofbottlessingle 48.64 percenttoarecord £14.21m, by record amounts–theformerby Scotch whiskysoldatauctionincreased Both thevolumeandvalueofrare Whisky 101. broker andinvestmentexpert,Rare according toareport bywhiskyanalyst, enjoyed an“exceptionalyear”in2016, rare whiskyauctionmarket,which n The PalaceofArts,WylamBrewery Raise a glass to the booming UK RaiseaglasstotheboomingUK GOING OVER TO THE DARK SIDE rum distillers in an attempt to visit them, as hole but without every Janice Hopper gives herself you would perhaps visit a whisky distillery atom in your body in Scotland, Jim ruefully commented being crushed to an over to the Dark Side as she that it might just be easier to build one infinitely small point”. himself. This was the spark that illuminated Dark Matter’s brand visits Scotland’s first and Dark Matter. identity stands “During the two weeks on holiday the idea out. Instead of Country only rum distillery… rumbled around in my head,” says Jim. of Origin or Produce Jim and John Ewen spend their time “Rum is made from dark, sticky molasses. Of the packaging mulling over Dark Matter in the north east of I have a great interest in all things scientific proudly states Scotland. While this may have Lord of the and the two concepts came together one Molecular Engineering Rings undertones, the two brothers have night in the form of Dark Matter. I wrote it – Scotland. On the successfully established Scotland’s first rum down immediately so I’d remember it.” side of the bottle the company’s Logic distillery. Having successfully pitched the idea to his is written up for brother, John, laboratory tests, recipe tests Dark Matter Rum is produced in the Royal consumers to consider. and fundraising were pursued before the Deeside town of Banchory, just outside “Our curiosity drives us, pair risked everything to start construction Aberdeen. With a background in the oil while science inspires of their distillery in May 2014. industry, as a petroleum economist, Jim us.” The brothers have was inspired to create Scottish rum while The first rum produced in April 2015 and the gone for a scientific on holiday in the Dominican Republic in finished product is described as “the taste approach, with labelling 2011. Having unsuccessfully phoned three equivalent of warping into a liquid black that harks back to the chemistry class and oozes geek chic. Since its launch, Dark Matter has become a familiar sight on the local beer festival scene; the distillery exported Scottish rum for the first time to Germany in October 2015; it won a gold medal at the prestigious 2016 Rum Masters awards; and it’s currently gracing the shelves of specialist stockists, selected Tesco’s and Sainsbury’s stores in Scotland, and of Majestic Wines across the UK. But what about its flavour? In terms of taste Dark Matter is a molasses- based rum with notes of long pepper, allspice, ginger and green peppercorns. Spiced rums are often sweet, but Dark Matter isn’t cloying. It’s spicy though, so provides a warming tipple. And the million dollar question? Why on earth did it take so long to establish rum production in a country renowned for distillation? Jim Ewen concludes: “It’s bizarre that a country like Scotland which has traded in The Palace of Arts, Wylam Brewery sugar and molasses, or treacle as we know it, since the 1600s hasn’t produced a rum until now. It baffles me that no-one else has done it. Perhaps we have a mental block that says rum can only come from Caribbean islands. Having said that, we at Dark Matter are happy to be the only Scottish rum producers!” For Dark Matter the future may very well be bright. www.darkmatterdistillers.com MOTORING

10 DRIVEN TO DISTRACTION There have been a few bumps and even the death of one ‘driver’ in the USA, but driverless, or autonomous, cars are likely to be coming to a junction near you before too long. Our motoring correspondent, Norman Burr, looks wryly at the implications…

We all know autonomous cars are coming. All the major manufacturers are developing them, and tech giants like Apple and Google have made major investments in the field. So far though, the cars are best described as automated rather than autonomous, because true autonomy is where the driver is not required – perhaps not allowed – to do anything other than input the destination and press Go, after which he or she can be taken anywhere in the world regardless of the type of road. This is a long way off. The challenges are as much human as technical. Who will be liable when an accident occurs – the software developer or the driver? Will one manufacturer’s car talk seamlessly to another’s? Will all countries use the same technical standards? What by the software, but when something would become unnecessary. Is the end of happens if disruption of the GPS system – untoward happens and the car demands the speed hump in sight? by unusual sunspot activity or hacking, say human intervention, precious time will be lost For those irresponsible enough to explore – sends the system haywire? The ultimate while the driver refocuses on the job in hand. their Lamborghini’s top speed on the public stag night prank suggests itself: hack into It may only be a second or two, but a car can road, these changes would open a window the groom’s car and send him to the local travel a long way in a second. At the very of opportunity. Choose a time when there house of ill repute instead of the church. moment when decisive action is needed, the are no automated cars around to record Result! High fives all round! driver’s mind will likely be elsewhere, lulled into a false sense of security. the fact – very early on a summer morning But enough whimsy. perhaps – and go for it. You might very well Consider also the effect of a large number stay out of jail. We have got used to active cruise control, of automated cars on those of us who lane deviation warnings, sleep detection are still driving without such “aids”. The No-one knows how all this will pan out. But systems, automatic parking, route planning. reckless would soon learn that there is no at some stage along the way, when true The next stage will be to integrate these need to be safe or considerate around an autonomy has been achieved, we all know so that, on certain roads at least, the driver automated car because it will always take that two poor schumcks at a crossroads can simply sit back. However, the driver’s avoiding action. Its occupants would of with no defined right of way will find functions will be automated, not removed. course be frightened and infuriated by such themselves stranded, their autonomous In this netherworld, where the driver is in behaviour, so cameras would be installed cars each endlessly and politely asking each control but not in control, surely the biggest on automated cars to record bad driving other to cross first. It’s dark, cold, miles single challenge is going to be how to and automatically report it to the police. This from anywhere, the batteries are failing, the maintain attention? Software can prevent raises a potent civil liberties issue, because a system won’t reboot and the doors are of illegal phone activity by disabling the simple software change is all that would be course locked for safety reasons. device, cameras can detect sleepiness by needed for the recording to be switched on monitoring eye movement, but merely being permanently, not just at moments of danger. I think I’ll let someone else get the bugs out alert is not enough: how do you tell if he, or Such a change could be made centrally of the system first. she, is actually concentrating on the road? and online without drivers even being aware The software would have to permit them to – and hey presto, Big Brother has arrived LEFT and ABOVE Ford showed what it delve into the centre armrest for a sweet, without telling us, and we are doing his work calls its “next-generation autonomous but it would have to be very clever indeed to for him. development vehicle” at the 2017 North detect that a hand had strayed a little further American International Auto Show, in Detroit Conversely, the police’s presence on the across onto their partner’s thigh… Thus in January. It uses the current US market road would probably be considerably distracted, but notionally still in charge of a Ford Fusion Hybrid as a platform, “but ups reduced. When most traffic is automated tonne and a half of metal travelling at 70mph, the processing power with new computer anyway, there is no need to police it. our driver is probably more of a danger than hardware. Electrical controls are closer to Speed cameras would catch so few drivers one with no aids at all. production-ready, and adjustments to the that they would become uneconomic to sensor technology allow the car to better Most incidents will be dealt with seamlessly maintain, while speed-calming in cities see what is around it,” the company says. 12

SPECIAL FEATURE Kevin Pilley goes window-shopping for furniture – grown in a field harvested by a team that includes a designer from Leeds and a criminologist from York… Furniture farming is all about team-work. And Gavin Munro has vision on driftwood picked up from Ocean Beach, in the Sunset surrounded himself with hands willing to go out in all weathers and district of San Francisco. He has a degree in Furniture Design from at all times of year to harvest a full range of top-quality chairs and Leeds Met University. round up a herd of bespoke tables. “It’s really very simple and straightforward. And not cruel. We merely His might not be the most expensive in the world. Eileen Gray’s guide, encourage, coax, persuade and tweak the young shoots and $27.8m Dragon Chair is easily that. But the chairs made by Leeds tree limbs into the direction and shape we require to form a bespoke furniture graduate Gavin Munro are one-offs. They are grown in a pieces of fully functional, ergonomic, very durable furniture every field in the Derbyshire Dales. time. Humans have been moulding wood to their own requirements for ages. Through coppicing, pollarding, pleaching, espaliering and, The 40-year-old furniture designer’s showroom and open-air factory of course, topiary.” is in Wirksworth,15 miles from Derby. He has 40 chairs currently Gavin’s wife Alice used to publish prospectuses and teach English. planted and growing well. They will be ready for harvesting in six to She is also a former VSO volunteer. “Since I met Gavin, a large part ten years’ time. of my life is made up of him shouting ‘I’ve got it!’, and then frantically The former web designer has orders stretching into 2022. You might trying to explain his latest eureka moment. say he has stumbled on a growth industry. His individually home- “Sticks play a large part – sometimes for kindling and sometimes grown chairs cost £3,000 each. His field-grown pendant lamps, I’ve burnt the wrong bits. His experiments also constantly invade our £1,000. The tree artist also grows his own tables and mirror frames. home life quite extensively. I lost my bath to a willow chair for about “I test-trialled early prototypes in my mother-in-law’s back garden. two weeks, as he wanted to soak off the bark. The random recycling Then I got myself a plot of land and grew my chairs there. Until some of objects and moments of inspiration can come from anywhere. cows squashed them flat. Trees have fully taken over my life.” “A frame only takes two years to grow. But I learned patience when I Then there’s Ed Loud, 24, who studied Criminology at the University of York. “Growing furniture was not an obvious career path,” he was laid up in hospital after spine-straightening surgery.” says. “I got involved pretty much on a whim. It was a cool concept. While working as a gardener in California, Munro honed his organic It didn’t take me long to fall in love with the idea and almost three 13 Gavin Munro with a prototype seat

years later I’m still here. I feel incredibly lucky to be part of such an aware, and very friendly towards our models. Why chop down amazing thing.” a tree to make furniture when you can wrap a mould around it and customise it? Mass-manufactured furniture is hard on the Qualified acupuncturist Gus Sevier says she heads up “the really environment. It wastes wood and uses a great deal of energy on fiddly technical side”. vehicles, chainsaws and so forth. Growing furniture also avoids the “A big part of it is the grafting process that we use to make our pollutants in laminating, gluing and machining. joints. I’ve also been involved in organising new shoot paths. We’re “We’re developing an elegant, simple art form that emits oxygen, refining the whole process all the time.” absorbs carbon dioxide and whose by-products sustain the birds, Richard “Fash” Ashley – the owner of three lurchers – is weed-man, the bees and other wildlife.” general gardener and electrician. Dom Foulds (who used to work He calls it “botanical manufacturing”, but does not take credit for as a ceramics lamp producer and is now pest-control officer and the technique. The Greeks and Egyptians grew their own stools and, in charge of companion planting) and sander Chris J Robinson apparently, the Chinese dug holes and filled them with chair-shaped complete the team. rocks and grew tree roots through the gaps. The ancient hand-made “I saw it as an opportunity to do something that nobody else was War-Khasi living rope bridges in Assam were formed from the roots doing,” says Chris. “And as a chance to create our own art form and of banyan fig trees. In the Middle East living trees were used to make set the parameters ourselves.” garden houses. Main man Munro adds: “We are very ecologically and sustainability “It’s hard graft,” says Gavin. But as well as avoiding the need for nails, fixings and machinery, our designs should last longer than traditionally-made chairs as they don’t have the weak points around The Nelson the joints. In the same ways as a broken bone will be a lot stronger armchair, where it heals, the points where the wood is grafted are extremely designed by strong.” Munro, takes five to six years “For every 100 trees we grow there are 1,000 branches and more of nurturing and than 10,000 shoots to keep your eye on, and prune at the right time training into in the right way. Mother Nature might do all the hard work, but it’s all shape before about being cooperative with the natural world.” harvest, followed In the future, Full Grown hopes to harvest bookshelves and a crop by another year of chests of drawers. “We have heard all the puns in the book. But to season and people are sitting up and taking notice, so we can’t afford to sit back dry the wood on our laurels.” before being hand finished. Gavin dreams of a day when furniture factories will be replaced by furniture fields. Even parks. 14 Eastern Airways flies to Leeds Bradford and Humberside The Furniture Orchard where chairs, tables, lamps and sculptures grow into shape and mature.

15 The Hebrides may not seem like the

THE HEBRIDES most obvious choice for a January mini- break, but Stan Abbott finds plenty of reasons to be cheerful on a trip to the isles of Lewis, Harris and Skye…

A few doubting Thomases had cocked an eyebrow or two comprising a magnificent picture window looking out across when we told them we were heading to Scotland’s north- the sand dunes to the ocean. Much of the structure is below western extremities for a post-Christmas break. They ground and this, combined with sturdy stone walls, deliver a suggested the Canaries or the Caribbean clear statement of intent in the face of the might be a better bet. But, hey, Stornoway wildest Hebridean storm. had been consistently posting double-figure temperatures through much of the winter “We had a clear vision,” says Rhoda and was currently double digits ahead of the Campbell, who – with husband Neil, from South of England. Skye – saw in the 22-acre family croft a once- in-a-lifetime opportunity to create something A slick connection at Aberdeen and we were special. “There was no four or five-star at Stornoway Airport for early afternoon – in accommodation at the time in the Western good time to find our Isle of Harris car hire Kia isles, except for one on North Uist. We had in the airport car park and make our Isle of the croft land anyway and we thought we Harris destination before the light faded. would do something different that would sit in The lure was a holiday cottage that you might the landscape, but traditional. Rhoda and Neil Campbell call a destination in its own right – Taigh Iain “We said we didn’t want a blackhouse and is one of two turf-roofed cottages created by Stuart came up with a Neolithic design.” Rhoda and Neil Campbell on land that gazes out to the Atlantic on the western shore of the Isle of Harris. Other features of the structure include hefty larch pillars, salvaged after a storm, while the stone was recycled from a I think it’s safe to call a holiday cottage a destination when derelict blackhouse. it acquires a solid reputation of its own that starts to make it synonymous with its location. That’s what the two Taighs “The cost of building the houses was cheap compared with (houses) have acquired since they opened in 2003. what it would cost now – I don’t think we’d be building them now, as prices shot up about six months after we completed So what’s so special about Taigh Iain and its near neighbour, them.” Taigh Sheumais? Well, you could be forgiven for thinking that these unusual cottages were inspired by a traditional So, did they feel that they were embarked on a risky project, Hebridean croft or black house. But, in reality, the concept given that rentals on the cottages would be significantly higher created by architect Stuart Bagshaw is more Neolithic than than the then going rate in the area? Neil: “We were quietly Celtic – the living area is spanned by a vast arched roof, confident that we would get plenty of bookings from May to supported by huge laminated oak beams, its west-facing wall August, but people were sceptical as to whether people would

16 Taigh Iain

FEATURES OF THE STRUCTURE INCLUDE HEFTY LARCH PILLARS, SALVAGED AFTER A STORM, WHILE THE STONE WAS RECYCLED FROM A DERELICT BLACKHOUSE. pay the price we were asking. In fact, the local people were shocked, the Winter Harris Campaign. Vindication of the strategy came with although we only heard about it afterwards! occupancy figures that peaked at 98 per cent year-round, though those figures have fallen back slightly with the arrival of other quality “In the event, the whole thing has far exceeded our expectations venues. and it has also meant that lots of other people have since had the confidence to do something more special on Harris.” So what makes the houses so very… “five star”? Well, they are very generously sized for two people. And two people is precisely what Indeed, Stuart’s distinctive architectural style has clearly influenced they are designed for. In fact, young children are not encouraged at other holiday homes that have been built on the island, though – it all, as there could be issues around the ease with which they might has to be said – none can boast quite the view enjoyed by Neil and clamber onto the roof! Besides the large living space, there’s a well Rhoda’s two Taighs. equipped kitchen, generous bedroom and a fully equipped office for Neil brought to the project the proceeds of the sale of a fish farm on the busy professional who still needs to be on line. Skye and now offers a business planning service. He is also involved The bathroom boasts a large whirlpool bath and a sauna, while the wth the West Harris Community Trust, dedicated to providing homes “shed” at the back of the house stables G-Tech electric bikes at no and employment for local people, and is delighted to witness signs extra cost. The Taighs benefit from a wind turbine and air source heat that ensuring there are homes for young families can halt the aging pump, both of which – alongside other ways in which guests are population trend. encouraged to behave “greenly” – help ensure the properties retain their Green Tourism Gold standard. They are the only properties to But Neil and Rhoda did not just challenge conventional local wisdom hold the badge in the Hebrides. with their pricing: they believed from Day One that there was the potential to attract visitors all year round. And so, Neil launched The list of summer activities ranges from beach-combing and

Scarista Beach, a short walk from Taigh Iain hill-walking to fishing and kite surfing, but the sheer strength of the wind limited our walking excursions to a short trip to the pristine white sands of the beach, marvelling en route at the challenges posed by the links golf course. South Harris is joined to its northern neighbour – which shares the larger, more northerly land mass with the Isle of Lewis – by a narrow isthmus at Tarbert. You can drive right round South Harris in a few hours with plenty of time to stop and admire the art galleries and craft workers. In January, you need to ring ahead as most are formally closed. Champagne and fresh It was lovely to see Harris again and to seafood at Skeabost enjoy the landscape beneath a different, winter, light. But the real treat was getting back inside lovely Taigh Iain and shutting the elements out and just watching the day go by through the window, like a cinema screen. Fittingly, as we loaded the little stove with peat, we found a locally-set DVD – The Rocket Post. Set on the isle of Scarp, off Harris, it tells the tragic story of the German rocket scientist, Gerhard Zucker, who fell in love with a local girl while developing a zany scheme to send letters to and from the mainland by rocket. This 2006 drama may be a little short on big names, and hasn’t even made it to Rotten Tomatoes, but it’s well worth a watch. Rhoda and Neil offer a variety of ways in which guests can ensure they can get their New rooms at Skeabost feet up quickly on arrival, including local supplies of fresh seafood and a home while regular copses and plantations give of container ships plying between Europe delivery gourmet meals service. We opted Skye’s landscape an altogether gentler feel. and the Far East, Captain of Caledonian for home massage but, sadly, the masseuse MacBrayne ferries on the west coast of Gentler, that is, until you travel to Glen Brittle turned out to be laid low by flu. Well, you just Scotland, and Captain of the five-star cruise have to adapt to changing circumstances for a close-up view of the magnificent Cuillin ship, Hebridean Princess, a favourite of the when you head for the Hebrides in winter! mountains. Queen. That, however, would be for tomorrow as, His son, Ally, is a manager at Skeabost OVER THE SEA TO SKYE on arrival, we had time only to head for the House’s sister hotel in the south of Skye, Skeabost House Hotel. Duisdale House, having gained experience Conventional wisdom has it that you visit the at one of Edinburgh’s leading hotels. Isle of Skye by driving across the new bridge Skeabost House is the newest addition to at Kyle of Lochalsh. And while you can, of the Skye hotels portfolio owned by the family Anne and Ken were named Scottish course, still catch the boat “over the sea to business of Anne Gracie and Ken Gunn. Hoteliers of the Year in 2013 because of their Skye” from Mallaig, a far more exciting way Anne was formerly a quality inspector for successes with Toravaig, their first hotel, and to arrive is west-to-east on the boat from VisitScotland and is Skye born and bred. Her Duisdale. Harris. daughter Jen was a clinical psychologist We were immediately impressed by Fears that we might not make it to Skye – until she took over as General Manager at Skeabost House, which achieves a the previous day’s sailings had been lost to Skeabost House Hotel when Anne and Ken commendable level of intimacy, despite gale-force winds – disappeared as the ferry bought it in April 2015. being a quite substantial building. docked at Tarbert, just a little late. Ken Gunn’s grandparents lived on the The room was generous, four-posted, and The Isles of Harris and Skye seem worlds remote islands of St Kilda, evacuated in the with a very large bathroom. The hotel has apart these days. The first difference that 1930s when the community there became enjoyed a complete makeover since its strikes you is the trees: Harris has so few, unsustainable. He was formerly master acquisition and this strikes a good balance

18 View towards Raasay Fairy pools at Glen Brittle

I OPT FOR A WALK TO THE FAIRY POOLS – A SERIES OF ENCHANTING PONDS AND WATERFALLS NEAR THE HEAD OF THE GLEN between modern and the kind of rustic you an exhibition about St Kilda. Having enjoyed hill-walkers – the most serious challenge in come to expect on a trip to the Highlands. a long fascination for these abandoned the whole of the UK. islands, I’m always up for an exhibition that Dinner was prefaced by a choice from the Specialist guiding companies offer to take promises new insights into the challenging you on the 23-peak Cuillin traverse. It extensive gin collection. It turned out to life endured by their inhabitants. Sadly, while may be only 12 kms long but it’s usually a be an appropriate prelude to the salmon the centre’s shop, restaurant and cinema three-day expedition, including a night’s three ways starter, which featured poached, were open, the exhibition was going to bivvy on the mountains. It combines razor smoked and gin and thyme cured. “Eating remain shut till March… I do think that more sharp ridges and the infamous Inaccessible local” delivered a 28-day aged Isle of Skye places need to catch up with the reality of Pinnacle, probably the most challenging of fillet steak, which was quite sumptuous; year-round domestic tourism. as too was the egg nogg crème brulée to all Scotland’s Munros, of which there are 12 round things off. An impressive wine list and in the Black Cuillin. equally memorable single malt collection – GOING WEST The blogs written by people undertaking the the latter enjoyed in the large lounge, with its We headed instead for the western fringes challenge make for good reading if you are big sofas and generous log fire – confirmed of the island, passing the Talisker distillery en into this kind of challenge from the safety our judgement that Skeabost House really route to Talisker Bay, then down the narrow of your own armchair. Or take a look on does tick all the boxes. Indeed, even in road to the little church at Loch Eynort. YouTube at stunt rider Danny Macaskill’s the depths of winter it was drawing an heart-stopping traverse of the ridge by But no glen on Skye compares with international clientèle and we were happy mountain bike. Sheer terror, but one of the Glen Brittle. I first camped here during a to recommend it to a friend bound for Skye best things you’ll find on the Internet! later in the year. heatwave in the 1970s and climbed Sgurr na Banachdich – it’s described as “probably the Today, however, is not for scaling mountains, Most roads on Skye lead, ultimately, to easiest of the Cuillin range”, but that doesn’t and I opt for a shorter walk from the Forestry Portree, and on exiting the cosy little capital, mean it’s a stroll in the park, for the Cuillins Commission car park (ram-packed, even in we chanced upon the Aros Centre, boasting as a whole offer mountaineers – not just plain January) to the Fairy Pools – a series of 19 Duisdale House from the woods

Four poster luxury at Duisdale

enchanting ponds and waterfalls near the Hire car by Isle of Harris Car Hire head of the glen. www.isleofharris-carhire.com

Tonight we are staying at Duisdale House, Blue Reef Cottages (Taigh Iain and Taigh overlooking the Scottish mainland from the Sheumais) – www.stay-hebrides.com luxuriant peninsula of Sleat, in the south of the island. Although a little more modest than its Skeabost House Hotel larger, more northerly, cousin, Duisdale House www.skeabosthotel.com replicates the excellence of its cuisine and the Duisdale House Hotel dining room – on a winter weekend in January Sunset over North Uist www.duisdale.com – was packed; mostly by local people, I’d guess. I wondered if my twice-dived scallops might just possibly have come from “the Duisdale House in summer, when trips on its plankton-rich waters of Loch Sligachan” own yacht would be available, we journeyed back to Uig via some of the celebrated sights beneath the Cuillins. After all, Sconser of Skye. On an island that didn’t also boast Eastern Airways flies every weekday Scallops claims to supply the best hotels on the Cuillins, any one of the dramatic rock from Aberdeen to Stornoway. Skye, Duisdale House among them. follies of Trotternish, the Quiraing and Kilt Connecting flights from Having made a mental note to return to Rock would be destinations in their own right. throughout the airline’s network

Scallops at Duisdale

20 HARRIS PROSPECT’S BRIGHT ON HARRIS PROSPECT’S BRIGHT The candles quickly caught on and were The candles quicklycaught onandwere then weputafew candlesintheshop.” “We experimentedforafewmonths and smoke andunpleasantemissions. avoidingblack gives acleanerburn, soy waxandacottonwick,says Jamie, 100 percentnaturalproducts. Using Buth Bheag’s USPisthatitemploys make candlesonthekitchentable. howto and sotheysetaboutlearning that wasunlikeanythingelseonHarris The ideawastoestablishabusiness move intoevenlarger premises. the edgeofTarbert andhopessoonto moved intoasmallindustrialuniton Western Isles,ButhBheagCandleCo With supportfrom Business Gateway ambitious venture. then inspired theirnewest andmost Buth Bheag–weeshopandthename also provide office space.Theycalledit shop onthemainstreet inTarbert, to They openedasmallhigh-qualitygift Harris CarHire. business, withtwoKiavehicles–Isleof in themarketandaddedacarhire Then heandDeeniesawanothergap Harris andLewis. with contractsthelengthandbreadth of window cleaningmanagementconcern, breach. Thebusinesssoongrew intoa window cleanersandsteppedintothe local businesseswere strugglingtofind his hotelworkended.Henoticedthat needed anewsource ofincomeafter Jamie metpartnerDeenieMacleodand community. (Seenextpage.) they are pillarsofthelocalbusiness at Tarbert, Harris.Justthree yearslater boutique hotelneartheferryterminal Hotel Hebrides,arecently refurbished respectively asManagerandChefatthe were workingonshort-termcontracts Jamie McGowanandGeorge Lavery entrepreneurs. or thattheywouldbecometrailblazing would meetandfallforlocalwomen, Much lessdidtheyexpectthat be there more thanafewmonths. Harris in2010,neitherexpectedto When twoGlaswegiansarrivedon on Harris are ensuring apositive future If ofan the island lifeblood then liesintheofitspeople creativity entrepreneurs BUTH BHEAG BUTH buthbheagcandleco.uk them. Andyouhave gottobereliable.” opportunities are andworktorealise Islands. You havetoidentifywhat the are opportunitiesintheHighlandsand Of entrepreneurship hesays:“There record-breaking candle… what hehopesmaybeaGuinness Jamie iscurrently experimenting with as gooditpossiblycanbe.” Jamie, “It’s allaboutgetting theproduct five hundred candlesaday and,says Buth Bheagcanproduce up tofouror mainland. increasingly befoundon the Scottish example –andthecandlescan its HeritageandBeachranges,for firmly ontheHarrislandscape–through Now theireverwideningrangedraws islands. soon beingstockedinoutletsacross the Jamie andDeenie and Islands Enterprise ways in which and Islands Enterpriseways inwhich that George is exploringwithHighlands Such hasbeenthe successofhisbistro to gooutandbuyaRangeRover.” not torunabusinessandI’m going business andIsaidNo.Butknow how bank. TheyaskedifIknewhowto runa “I startedthebusinesswith£138 inthe summer todoquitewell. things tickingoverandthenenoughin be enoughbusinessinwintertokeep George tookagamblethatthere should because there wasn’t muchchoice.” a lotofpeoplegoingout.Butthatwas “We noticedthat,inwinter, there weren’t George. a baconroll here says inthemorning’,” mother-in-law said‘youcan’t even get “The waywelookedatitwasmy backwaters. defy conventionalthoughtsonisland was allactioninawaythatseemedto visit –onalateJanuarylunchtimeit North HarbourBistro, andonour was. ButoverlookingitisGeorge’s its harbourisnotasbusyitonce The islandhasenjoyedbetterdaysand best useofhisexpertiseasachef. of Scalpay–George Laveryhasmade bridgethatleadstotheisland modern A fewmilesdowntheroad –across the HARBOUR BISTROHARBOUR GEORGE’S NORTH

George Lavery ISLE OF HARRIS DISTILLERY In Tarbert, probably the largest single new enterprise is the Isle of Harris Distillery, opened two years ago. The £10 million venture is the brainchild of US-born chairman and founder Anderson Bakewell, the owner of the island of Scarp (of Rocket Post fame). Bakewell decided he wanted to put something back in to the local economy and so the idea of the distillery was born. He said: “It is on this special island that condi- tions prevail for the production and maturation of a unique and exceedingly fine malt whisky. As if that was not enough, we have every expectation that it should inspire creative initiatives – entre- preneurial, cultural and social – for the benefit of the island’s future, helping to retain those here and attract back those who left.” The project is backed by Highlands and Islands Enterprise and is currently producing its own gin, pending the maturation of its single malt. Unusually, the gin features kelp among its botanicals, giving it a very distinctive taste. As the distillery’s Guest Team Manager Shona Macleod proudly proclaims, every one of the distillery’s workforce has been recruited locally and trained from scratch. www.harrisdistillery.com

the community-owned building might thanks to George’s highly creative menu, be extended, ideally to provide a glazed elegantly served the way you’d expect to room overlooking the harbour. find in a big city, not on a tiny island. Such is the quality of George’s fare that The menu leans heavily on locally guests are turning up from as far afield as sourced seafood – scallops, muscles, South Africa and he is already the second calamari, squid, white fish – and meat, largest employer on the island. including Harris-reared venison and beef. Many of the ingredients enjoy an exotic The more success George enjoys, the interpretation and George already has his better things will be for the island’s sights set on the modern chef’s must- craftspeople – people like the weaver and have of a water bath and the chance to the lamp-maker in the old school over experiment with molecular cooking. the road. For North Harbour Bistro has Shona Macleod become a destination in its own right, en-gb.facebook.com/NorthHarbourBistro

HOTEL HEBRIDES boutique in style and presentation. The couple drove the project through in the teeth of the In 2011, we featured the Hotel Hebrides, at banking crisis, closing for the whole of 2008 Tarbert. It was the product of a bold venture by to achieve the increased bedroom count and Angus and Chirsty Macleod and the realisation better facilities demanded. of a vision that combined a passion for the The hotel now boasts not only an award- Hebrides with a wider world vision. winning restaurant but also a bigger bar that Originally built in the 70s as a motel by means it can double as an important facility for Angus’s father, it was transformed to meet local people as well as hotel guests. the aspirations of the 21st century’s more And such has been its success that a sophisticated guest. “I was abroad for some completely new development of self-contained years all over the world and came home with suites has been added, across the road. The an ambition to transform the place,” said four Kirklea Island suites offer luxury designer Angus. apartments, with a terrace overlooking the harbour. Guests can choose whether to self- With Chirsty, who has a degree in marketing, cater or plug in to the hotel’s own offer. Kirklea Island Suite Angus came up with a concept and design detail that makes Hotel Hebrides very much www.hotel-hebrides.com 22 ABERGAVENNY HOT TEA AND ANGEL CAKE… ANGEL AND HOT TEA dining space,the Cellar. Tiersof finger- I decidedtobooktheintimateprivate breakfast isalsotaken,myfriendsand Wedgewood Room, where theàlacarte wait. Usuallyservedintheelegant The foodwasdefinitelyworththe doors up. can befoundintheArtShop,afew artwork byAlexisSnell,whoselino-cuts specially commissionedblack-and-white a three-star hotel.Iparticularlylikedthe the qualitythroughout isimpressive for has beenrenovated inrecent yearsand squashy pastel-coloured sofa. TheAngel a luxuriouswhitedressing gownonthe toiletries, followedbyloungingaround in a bathusingAromatherapy Associates comfortable accommodationandhad away soImadethemostofmy teawasacoupleofhours Afternoon pies andaglassofmulledwine. couple ofdelicioushomemademince room, aknockonthedoorbrought a Christmas and,onceensconcedinmy cosy FoxhunterBar. Itwasjustbefore warm asthefireinhotel’s burning coaching inn.Thewelcomewasas and arrivedatthe19thcenturyformer shop andcouture millinerAlisonTod, swish HomesofElegancefurniture station ontheoutskirtsoftown,past day whenIwalkedfrom therailway Luckily, itwasindeedafine(albeitchilly) herself afoodieshouldmissit. 2011. No-onewhoconsidershimor its Top CityandCountryHotelTea Award tea,andwon the UKtoenjoyafternoon Guild, whichpromotes thebestplacesin Award ofExcellencefrom theUKTea its onlyaccolade:since2008it’s heldan Hotel oftheYear 2016/17.Andthat’s not town centre, hasbeennamedAAWales Abergavenny: theAngelHotel,in There’s anotherverygoodreason tovisit Park iswellandtrulyonthemap. side oftheBrecon BeaconsNational Welsh markettownonthesouth-eastern best restaurant inWales –thisclassy September, andtohavingarguably the nationally-renowned foodfestivaleach place was,butnow–thankstoits probably didn’t evenknowwhere the in 1968.Inthosedays,mostpeople the weatherisfine,”sangMartyWilde “Taking atripuptoAbergavenny, hoping Eastern flies Airways to Cardiff from Anglesey, NewcastleAberdeen and lets her hair down and gets the cakes in, in Abergavenny in in, cakes Trott gets the and down Victoria lets her hair courtyard; there wasevenacheese the pop-upfestiveAprès SkiBarinthe listening topipedoompahmusic in the eveningknockingbackbeer while Wales. The upsidewasthatwefinished the sevenMichelin-starred restaurants in probably themosthighlyregarded of too fulltoheadtheWalnut Tree, The onlydownsidewasthatwewere bottomless glassesofchampagne. tea blendandwhatseemedtobe each accompaniedbyitsrecommended light-as-air mini-sconesfilledthetable; several different kindsofcakeand narrow sandwiches,tinyquiche squares, Sugar Loafmountain artshopandgallery.co.uk angelabergavenny.com I can’t waittogoback. gourmet sandwichattheChapel Gallery. were quicklyreplaced, thankstoafinal Alas, whatevercaloriesweburned cycling company, Drover Holidays. by aguidefrom localwalking and Sugar Loafmountain,accompanied ended ourstaywithawalkupnearby available inthesurrounding area. We just aswellthere are somanyactivities With somuchdeliciousfoodaround it’s fondue forthosethatcouldmanageit. 23 24

SURVIVAL SKILLS ing off thelandisreally like.SoIdecided dancing withbadgers,Iwonderwhatliv- devouring alivesalmonorRayMears Sometimes, whenIwatchBearGrylls But thisiswhatIwanted,wasn’t it? the latter. My companionsandIwere doomedto contentment androot-nibbling dismay. the difference betweenfinger-licking sex, onemeaslyperch wouldhavemade survival experienceinthewildsofSus- and luck.Ihadneither. Onabushcraft Fishing requires agooddealofskill a fish.Iwouldhavesettledforeither. veal… nothing.Notasausage.Oreven I pulledthelure through thewatertore- tub thatservedasareel. Againandagain monofilament linefrom thesmallplastic the wood.AgainandagainIcast brain wasmesmerisedbythenoisesof stream butinsteadmycalorie-starved ears tocatchactivityintheshallow brambles andtree roots. Istrainedmy I stalkedthebank,lyinginwaitamong HUNGRY FOR KNOWLEDGE FOR HUNGRY PRIMARY CONSTRUCTIONPRIMARY MATERIAL WAS BUGS. I UNWISELY CHOSE TO BED IN OLD AN DOWN SHELTER WHOSE dons his camouflage fatigues and tries his hand at backwoods living… at hand backwoods his tries and fatigues camouflage dons his Davy Olly shelter whoseprimaryconstructionma- I unwiselychosetobeddowninanold Sleep wasminimalonthefirstnightas protect it”. so thatpeople“valueitmore andwantto en aconnectionwiththenaturalworld” sprinkling ofadventure –aimto“reawak- ecology andwildlifestudy, withahealthy Leon’s courses–coveringsurvivalskills, chief instructorofWildwoodBushcraft. guidance ofLeonDurbin,founderand in Julytospendfourdaysunderthe wood nearHaywards Heath,onaFriday I arrivedatthecoursesite,aprivate salmon. what Icouldfindorcatch.Bringonthe tary foodatthebeginning,I’deatonly Meaning, apartfrom alittlesupplemen- course, Ithought,wasthesurvivalbit. The excitingthingaboutthisparticular and gamepreparation. shelter building,foraging,wildlifetracking course foranintroduction toskillslike to actonthiscuriosityandbookeda make fishing hooks from hawthorn tree make fishinghooksfrom tree hawthorn meadowsweet (soothessore throats); brew teas from agrimony (liver detox) and ible) withhemlock(highlypoisonous);to We nottoconfuseburdock learned (ed- could eatoruse. fire steel,wesetoff toidentifyplantswe with gathered tinderandsparksfrom a stew wasbubblingoverafire started didn’t snare anything.Oncetherabbit could trygamepreparation evenifwe bits (shotbyalocalgamekeeper)sowe being dogmatic.Heprovided somerab- knowledge inanengagingstylewithout andforaging.Leonsharedlearning his The coursewasbroken intoblocksof washed downwithwildminttea. flour andwatercookedoverthefire, job. Breakfast wasbannocksmadefrom it won’t finishoneoff. Thatwouldbeour bunny sillyenoughtohopthrough it,but wire loopattachedtoastake)willcatch women tosetrabbitsnares. Thesnare (a I joinedthegroup of12menandtwo terial wasbugs.Emerging likeazombie, Contemplating life (and food) Contemplating life(andfood) outside myA-frameshelter EXPLORATION EXPRESS Rainbow trout gutted and Rainbow trout guttedand sizzling overthe fire 25 THE ABSENCE OF ALCOHOL, CAFFEINE AND SUGAR HAD A PURIFYING EFFECT AND I FELT INCREDIBLY CLEAR-HEADED.

spikes, and gather artist’s bracket fungus grubby fingers. The skin, the eyes, the brain sively reduced diet (perhaps a couple of (ganoderma applanatum) for firelighting. – all good calories. One tiny fish felt like a hundred calories per day) was taking its toll. decadent feast. How quickly one’s sense of Although the absence of alcohol, caffeine Leon pointed out plants with health benefits sufficiency can change. and sugar had a purifying effect and I felt and explained the suffix “wort” denotes me- incredibly clear-headed. I walked slowly With full bellies we waved off the eight dicinal properties, as in, for example, ragwort and thought twice about doing things that softies who were only signed up for the two- and liverwort. required much effort. day course. Hedgerows became far more “Hogwarts!” someone shouted. interesting in the knowledge that there would Digging burdock roots from hard-packed After my horrible night bunking with earwigs, be no more extra food. At one point I hal- earth was exhausting. Hobo fishing was I had to fashion my own shelter. I cannibal- lucinated a log into a plump rabbit. Tragically, physically easier, but ultimately unsuccessful. ised the ramshackle remains dotted about our snares were empty. In desperation we gathered unripe blackber- ries, normally ignored but delightful in the for sticks to make the A-frame and cut The highlight of the day was wading through circumstances. swathes of bracken for weatherproofing. I deep, stinking mud to yank out reedmace was determined, as if my survival really did roots. This distinctive plant is recognisable My shelter resisted overnight rain and I depend on it. by its brown, sausage-shaped seed heads. emerged for the final group breakfast of Roasted and peeled that evening, the roots roots and nettle tea. Somehow we sum- On Sunday morning Leon had a treat for us – had a pleasant starchy sweetness. Our moned up the energy to carve throwing an entire rainbow trout each, to gut and cook main course was pendulous sedge seeds sticks and spent a happy half hour hurling over the flames. A rumble (my new collective fried with wild garlic and nettles: a tasty, if them. A metal bucket stood in for the rabbit noun) of famished foragers ringed the fire meagre, snack. we wished it was. This provoked fierce com- pit while the rich scent of fish oils seasoned petition and shouts of the “the bunny shot!” the air. The flesh fell from the bone into my I felt weak on Monday morning. The mas- when someone nailed it. We had survived. Even after only four days away from civilisation, the bustle of Hay- wards Heath and the choice in Londis were overwhelming. The smell of the steak slice I inhaled was like ambrosia. As I headed for home, I reflected on the ex- perience. Bushcraft, I now know for certain, is harder than the pros make it look. Lack of food is something most of us in rich coun- tries are simply not used to. And there was the crux of it: getting out of my comfort zone and discovering how little I really need made me more appreciative of the plenty I have. Thank you, nature.

Olly Davy completed his bushcraft course at Wildwood Bushcraft in Sussex, but the com- pany also offers courses in Scotland, as well as in Arctic Sweden, Canada and Africa. Other companies that run similar courses include: Woodland Ways – Oxfordshire, Derbyshire and Scotland. www.woodland-ways.co.uk Woodsmoke – English Lake District. www.woodsmoke.uk.com Natural Pathways (family bushcraft weekend) – Kent. www.natural-pathways.co.uk Trueways – Somerset, Yorkshire, Gloucester- shire, Hampshire, Staffordshire and Surrey. Leon demonstrates the truewayssurvival.com effectiveness of a fire steel

2626 Eastern Airways flies to Southampton from Aberdeen and Leeds Bradford WIN a luxury golfing break in Inverness Inverness, capital of the Highlands, is the The one and two-bedroom apartments For your chance to twin a two-night break for perfect base for exploring some of Scotland’s offer all the flexibility of self-catering two at Highland Apartments, just answer this most spectacular scenery, thrilling history and accommodation, but with the added benefits easy question and send it by June 30, 2017, vibrant culture. of a daily housekeeping service and services to [email protected] including breakfast hampers, discounted The city is equidistant between Aberdeen and dining, and free parking and Wi-Fi. Which river do Highland Apartments Wick John O’ Groats airports, both served by overlook? frequent Eastern Airways flights. Many feature designer interiors, balconies and terraces overlooking the river, as well as The winner will be the sender of the first Eastern Airways Magazine has teamed well appointed kitchens, a secure video entry correct entry drawn at random and will up with Highland Apartments to offer system, lift access to all floors, flat screen TVs receive a two-night stay for two in a one- one lucky reader a luxury free stay for with Freeview, radio or CD player with iPod bedroom apartment, return flights for two to two – plus a round of golf on one of the docks, and DVD players. Aberdeen (if required), two days’ car hire at world’s oldest courses. Included in the best possible rates (subject to availability) prize are return flights for two to Aberdeen Fortrose and Rosemarkie Golf Club links plus a voucher for £110 for use at Fortrose plus preferential car hire from our partner are on the Black Isle, near Inverness, and Golf Club. Accommodation and tee times are Europcar if required. enjoy wonderful views over the Moray Firth. subject to availability and the prize must be Highland Apartments are part of the Mansley The club dates from 1793, and is the 15th taken by November 30, 2017. Group, which also has top-of-the-range oldest recorded golf club in the world. It Please note that the prize does not include meals. properties in London and Edinburgh. Enjoying was redesigned in 1932 by five-times Open champion, James Braid. some of the finest views in the city they’re For information on Highland Apartments perfect for a short break or business trip There’s much more to do in Inverness and and luxury serviced accommodation in to Inverness and as a base for touring the the surrounding area. Eden Court Theatre, Edinburgh or London, visit Highlands. the largest arts venue in Scotland, is just www.bymansley.com You can put your feet up in your home-from- across the river and Loch Ness is only six Fortrose and Rosemarkie Golf Club – home overlooking the River Ness on the miles away. You can go dolphin spotting on www.fortrosegolfclub.co.uk corner of the High Street, near Inverness the Moray Firth, at North Kessock, or take the email: [email protected] Castle. Shops, restaurants, cafés, pubs and kids to the Landmark Forest Adventure Park, bars are all just a short stroll away. at Carrbridge, or the Inverness Aquadrome. www.europcar.co.uk

Eastern Airways flies to Aberdeen from Bergen, Cardiff, Durham Tees Valley, Humberside, Leeds Bradford, Newcastle, Norwich, Southampton, Stavanger, Stornoway, and Wick 28

Beacon image by John Yeadon (Own work) [CC BY-SA 4.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0)], via Wikimedia Commons dog Aberdeen Brew- EXPLORATION EXPRESS lesson insocial history himself sidetracked by a National Park he finds Yorkthe North Moors borough’s hinterland in Cleveland and the to Redcarand explore When much more widely renowned Lawrence significant than that ofherfriend,the recognised. Acontributionthatwasmore that hercontribution ismore properly (well, onthissideoftheAtlanticat least), enlightened andlessmisogynistic age picture. Itisonlynow, inourmore to pretty muchairbrushheroutofthe century historysawfitsubsequently to theextentthatwritersof20th Except thatitwasn’t terribly wellmade, that shereally madehername. aftertheFirstWorldUK Government War an advisertoWinstonChurchill andthe Museum, Redcar, explains–itwasas the wonderfulfree-to-enter Kirkleatham – asahugelyinformativeexhibitionat and thengainingaFirstatOxford. But Redcar before beingschooled inLondon Durham, in1868,shewasraised inWashington, Born theninCounty history isofsupreme importance. actions inthe20thcenturyshapedworld contribution tothewayinwhichBritish of NorthEastEngland,butalsoher century womentohavecomeout Bell oneofthemostsignificant20th Why? BecausenotonlywasGertrude been aware ofitallmanyyearsago. sensation wasthatIreally shouldhave of GertrudeBell,myoverwhelming In fact,infindingoutaboutthelife make it. that IwouldhavetotravelRedcar discovery atallandIhadn’t envisaged “discovery” didn’t really feellikea roadmap. Indeed,mymostrecent does notnecessarilycomewitha It shouldberemembered thatdiscovery REDCAR AND CLEVELAND AND REDCAR A JOURNEY OF DISCOVERYA JOURNEY Stan Abbott sets out Abbott Stan … Babylon andaportrait,takenabout12yearslaterin1921,whenshewas53. ABOVE KirkleathamMuseum.TOPExhibitionimages:Gertrudeoutsidehertentin falling for a married man. Her bad falling for amarriedman. Herbad and LiberalMP, andoncethrough a sociallyprogressive industrialist the unwiseintervention ofherfather, twice unluckyinlove–oncethrough defender ofEmpire. Shewasatleast politically progressive, yetastaunch nonetheless opposedthesuffragettes; a highlyemancipatedwomanwho seem aratherparadoxicalcharacter: eyes,GertrudeBellmay In modern and Jordan. choosing thefirstmonarchs ofbothIraq Indeed shewaseffectively akingmaker, Iraqwereboundaries ofmodern drawn. tribes, anditwasonheradvicethatthe the trustofmanynomadicArab was thencalledMesopotamia,winning Gertrude Belltravelledwidelyinwhat you didn’t getit. done better–Florence ofArabia,incase Florence, likeherstepmother, she’dhave of Arabia.Perhapsifshehadbeencalled Rotten Tomatoes andhadmore orless as 2015.Itscored onlytenpercenton number ofother A-listers, asrecently Kidman asGertrude andfeaturinga made afilmofherlife,starring Nicole discovered thatWerner Herzoghad Enthused bythisexhibition,we subject oftworecent films. her correct placeinhistory, sheisthe and, aspartoftheprocess ofassuring of whichisavailableforstudyon-line Gertrude Bell’s extensive archive, much Newcastle Universitynowholds of themostrecent Iraqwar. plundered inthewakeof the destruction the fruitsofherlabourwere tragically – explainsinavideoattheexhibition, Cultural Property, Protection andPeace Professor, PeterStone–UnescoChairof museum ofIraq.AsNewcastleUniversity the firstcollectionfornewnational passionate archaeologist, shecreated luck continuedafterherdeath:asa vanished without trace. Indeed we had to by… Gallery is marking its tenth anniversary Redcar’s ‘vertical pier’ buy one of a small number of Italian DVDs of with an exhibition of works inspired by the movie still available to watch it all. the local landscape. I loved Peter Kicks’s impressionistic landscape of the Esk Valley Unfortunately, Herzog is so focussed on Bell’s love life that there’s scarcely time to but couldn’t quite afford the £4,000 asking cover her historical and political contribution price. Ian Scott Massie’s evocative little other than in a note on the screen at the water colours of the now redundant Redcar end. Better to look at Tilda Swinton’s 2016 steelworks were more affordable. documentary, Letters from Baghdad. We drove back across the Moors on either Kirkleatham Museum, housed in the former side of the Esk and beneath an eternal grey school that was known as the Old Hall, is just sky that seemed to emphasise the immense part of the remaining legacy of Sir William horizon, and then over the top towards Turner’s original estate. Take the trouble to Guisborough. A visit to the priory there would also have a look at the almshouses, across have to wait till another day, as would one to the road and next to the huge walled garden, the mining museum at Skinningrove, not to which is in line for restoration. Also take a mention a return to the Victorian splendours quick look at the fine Georgian terraced of Saltburn. houses, tucked between the gardens of the Old Hall and the church, and among the We stayed at Crathorne Hall, just south of most desirable residential addresses in the Yarm at the foot of the Cleveland Hills. With borough. super-friendly staff, a vast bedroom suite, fine dining and a cosy lounge, we felt like From Kirkleatham we headed into town to lord and lady of the manor. What’s not to like! find Red Barns, the Arts and Crafts former London’s Olympic Park. Don’t miss the home of Gertrude Bell’s family. Saved from The Extraordinary Gertrude Bell is at excellent Palace Hub commercial gallery demolition, it is currently being repaired Kirkleatham Museum until May 14 ahead of full restoration. nearby. The Gertrude Bell archive can be found at The North York Moors National Park Redcar’s rejuvenated sea front is now graced gertrudebell.ncl.ac.uk by the town’s “vertical pier”, which looks as encroaches here and there into Redcar, though it should have a helter-skelter round most notably at the summit of the iconic Past and Present is at the Inspired by… the outside, like the ArcelorMittal Orbit, at Roseberry Topping, and the Park’s Inspired Gallery to mid-March

Roseberry Topping in the North York Moors. © VisitEngland/NYMNPA/Colin Carter

Eastern Airways flies from Aberdeen to Durham Tees Valley WELCOME TO OUR BARE ESSENTIALS Information on our routes, fleet, passenger experience and suggestions for what to do when you arrive at your destination. BARE ESSENTIALS

BERGEN SCATSTA

THE FLEET SUMBURGH STAVANGER

WICK JOHN O’GROATS

STORNOWAY OUR DESTINATIONS

Scheduled routes JETSTREAM 41 ABERDEEN

Seventeen aircraft Length 20m (63ft) GLASGOW Charter routes Seats 29 passengers Typical cruising speed, Two turboprop engines 280 knots, at 20,000ft Codeshare services Wingspan 19m (60ft) NEWCASTLE operated by Widerøe

ISLE OF MAN BELFAST LEEDS DURHAM TEES VALLEY CITY BRADFORD HUMBERSIDE ANGLESEY CHESTER EMBRAER ERJ135

Two aircraft Length 26m (86ft) NORWICH Seats 37 passengers Typical cruising speed, Two turbofan engines 450 knots, at 35,000ft CARDIFF Wingspan, 20m (65ft) BRISTOL FI SOUTHAMPTON FRENCH NETWORK summer service PARIS ORLY

EMBRAER ERJ145 Besides the airline’s scheduled service network in the UK and Norway, Eastern RODEZ Three aircraft Length 30m (98ft) Airways also operates domestic services Seats 50 passengers within France from Paris Orly to Rodez, in Typical cruising speed, TOULOUSE Two turbofan engines 450 knots, at 35,000ft the department of Aveyron, in the south. summer service to Milan Wingspan, 20m (65ft)

EMBR AER E170 SAAB 2000

Two aircraft Wingspan 26m (85ft 4in) Nine aircraft Length 26.7m (89ft) Seats 76 passengers Length 30m (98ft) Seats 50 passengers Typical cruising speed, Two General Electric Typical cruising speed, Two jetprop engines 370 knots, at 28,000ft 30 CF34-BE turbofan engines 481 knots, at 41,000ft Wingspan 24.3m (81ft)

ESSENTIAL TRAVEL WHEN YOU FLY WITH US… …we'll make your journey FLY FOR LESS The Eastern Airways 4-4-3 Route Pass offers savings for frequent flyers of up easier and more enjoyable to 25 per cent when you buy four return Our customers choose Eastern Airways Cardiff, Leeds Bradford, Southampton and tickets for the price of three. because they want their journey to be as Newcastle, and is a dedicated security The 4-4-3 Route Pass offers maximum convenient, speedy and hassle-free as channel for Eastern Airways passengers to flexibility, lounge access and fee-free possible. use and avoid busy airport terminal security changes, and is available on all Eastern We aim to satisfy these key requirements by queues. Airways UK domestic services – as is offering frequent services (up to four weekday With Eastern Airways operating the largest our Zonal Route Pass, which offers even departures, plus Sunday services), same day number of scheduled services from Aber- bigger savings of up to 40 per cent. returns on most routes, and free hand lug- deen, we offer exclusive use of our dedicated The Zonal Route Pass is for customers gage and hold baggage allowance. business lounge, located next to our depar- buying six return flights, or 12 one-way Our highly trained cabin attendants also offer ture gates. Executive lounge access is also sectors, on the same route. You can a fully complimentary in-flight drinks and offered at Cardiff, Leeds Bradford, Norwich pick and choose your flights, making branded snacks service, while customers with and Southampton for passengers travelling as many changes as you need (subject fully flexible tickets can enjoy complimentary on fully flexible tickets. to availability). The Zonal Route Pass is available on all domestic Eastern lounge access at selected airports. As you board your aircraft you will see our Airways routes and also comes with Our 30-minute check-in time, along with fast liveried valet baggage cart for you to place complimentary lounge access, where larger items of hand luggage by the aircraft track security at selected airports, are a big available. plus when time is of the essence and queues steps. Your hand luggage will be there for you at both will be short, enabling you to make the on the valet baggage cart at your destination. The Air Discount Scheme (ADS) was brought in by the Scottish Government most of your ticketless travel, pioneered by Once again our aim is to make your travel as for the benefit of the remotest communi- Eastern Airways a decade ago. pleasant an experience as possible and we ties in the Highlands and Islands and Fast Track is currently available at Aberdeen, wish you a most enjoyable trip. provides a discount of 50 per cent on the core air fare on eligible routes. SAFETY AND SECURITY Routes eligible with Eastern Airways are Stornoway to Aberdeen and Wick to Above all else, we want you to enjoy flying Aberdeen. with us and we’re confident that in the overwhelming majority of cases you will do For more information on flying for so. However, while the vast majority of less, see www.easternairways.com, passengers flying in the world today behave or contact your travel agent or our impeccably, there is a greater awareness of reservations team on 08703 669100. isolated incidents of disruptive behaviour, sometimes dubbed “air rage”. While this LASER DEVICES isn’t a major problem at Eastern Airways, the A safety issue that has been raised in the safety and security of our passengers and authorities on arrival and may face arrest airline industry and which has attracted crew is our number one priority and we and a heavy fine – or up to two years in jail. some wider publicity recently is the number don’t want our customers to experience any Severe restrictions will also be placed on of laser attacks against aircraft. It is a matter behaviour that makes them feel their future travel with Eastern Airways. uncomfortable, or to be put in a situation about which the Civil Aviation Authority that compromises safety. Similarly, we remind customers that there (CAA) is very concerned. is a strict No Smoking policy on board all Targeting an aircraft with a laser is reckless, Our Zero Tolerance policy is directed at of our aircraft and in all of our lounges. This dangerous and also illegal. Just a microsec- disruptive behaviour, which might include includes the use of electronic cigarettes ond of laser energy from a powerful laser smoking, drunkenness, aggression or or any cigarette substitute device that source is enough to permanently damage abusive language towards a customer or a emits a vapour or has a power source or the eye. member of crew. produces heat and or a light. We do not If you do happen to see a laser beam from Our crews are fully trained to deal with this permit electronic cigarettes to be charged the cabin or if it enters the cabin, you may kind of incident and therefore we remind in our lounges. Electronic cigarettes may be tempted to look at it. However, you customers that to disobey a lawful com- be carried on board subject to the following should not look at the beam or try to locate mand given by a crew member is to commit conditions: its source. Just look away or look down an offence under the UK Air Navigation Or- • Carried on the person only towards the floor of the cabin. Do report the der. Offenders who persistently misbehave • No refills incident to your cabin crew. on a flight will be handed to the appropriate • Strictly not permitted for use Thanks for your attention. ESSENTIAL GOINGS ON…

FESTIVAL TIME Aberdeenshire’s Scottish Traditional Boat Festival in Portsoy, pictured right, celebrates the North East of Scotland’s rich cultural and maritime heritage with a range of events taking place over two days from June 24.

BARE ESSENTIALS: WHAT’S GOING ON BARE ESSENTIALS: WHAT’S Other events in the area include Run Balmoral, from April 22-23. Set within the grounds of Balmoral Castle, the run attracts around 5,000 competitors and 5,000 spectators each year. Events over the weekend include a 5K and a 10K run, and family entertainment. Aberdeen’s Look Again Festival from April 27-May 1, celebrates contemporary visual art and design, showcasing local and internationally acclaimed talent. During the festival, architectural and urban features in the city will be turned into new artworks. www.visitabdn.com

n Yorkshire’s favourite sons Kaiser THE GOLDEN AGE OF OCEAN LINERS Chiefs are heading home for what In their golden age from the 1920s to the Visitors can see furniture from some promises to be an explosive night at 1950s, ocean liners were the lifeblood of of the famous ships that called Scarborough Open Air Theatre. Fresh Southampton, bringing employment, Southampton home such as the from their first UK arena tour in two industry and glamour to the city. Mauretania, Queen Mary and QE2, and years, the multiple Brit Award-winning and platinum-selling, indie-rock band Port Out, Southampton Home, running learn about the people who travelled and worked the oceans aboard these iconic will headline Europe's largest open air until June 4, is a major exhibition telling theatre on Saturday May 27. the story of these great ships from the vessels – through letters, diaries and oral early days in the 1890s to modern day history interviews with passengers and cruiseliners, and evokes the romance of crew. sea travel and life on board. The There will also be opportunities to have exhibition includes a wide range of a go at deck quoits, try on a captain’s or rarely seen items from the city’s steward’s uniform and find out what was maritime collection, including ship served for a meal in First Class on the models, posters, photographs and Queen Mary. ephemera such as menu cards and souvenirs. seacitymuseum.co.uk n Turn the page, an international book art and design fair, has announced that its sixth annual event themed Home will be held on May 26 and 27 at The Forum, Norwich. Alongside more than 60 artists and printmakers, ttp organisers have revealed that international artist Anna Yevtukh, now based in the UK, will be creating the centre piece for the fair. n Storyhouse, a £37 million development bringing a theatre and cinema back to Chester after a decade long absence, will accommodate a state-of-the-art theatre, library and cinema in the dramatic, art-deco 32 conversion of the city's Odeon. GET ON YOUR BIKE AT HOLKHAM HALL Family friendly cycling festival, Pedal stations along the way. There will also be a Norfolk, returns to Holkham Hall from May closed road race. 27-29 working with charity partner Walking For children there will be an ultra-safe with the Wounded. seven-mile car free cycle route, cycle Over 2,500 cyclists and more than 8,500 academy, grass track training and a visitors are expected so there will be a mountain bike course through the woods. number of individual cycling events and Activities include Holkham's Field to Fork activities on offer aimed at all ages and exhibition, an interactive and educational levels of ability. There will also be a rare experience for children and their parents, opportunity to camp in the grounds of the live music, a children's woodland Hall. adventure play area, Holkham beach, games and rides, talks in the Adnam's Festival-goers will have the opportunity to beer tent as well as competitions and ride 20, 50 or 100 mile signposted safe and food. supported routes along north Norfolk’s Patrick Mateer scenic country and coastal roads with feed www.pedalnorfolk.co.uk NORDIC FLUX A four-day music festival celebrating the best in Nordic creativity and influence will take place across Hull city centre between April 28 and May 1. Critically acclaimed singer-songwriter John Grant, pictured, will curate the brand new, experimental music festival – North Atlantic Flux: Sounds From Smoky Bay – celebrating Hull’s Nordic and international links, while exploring the best in sonic creativity as part of Hull UK City of Culture 2017. A host of Nordic and international artists will feature over May Day bank holiday weekend, including Icelandic electronic dance collective GusGus, Norwegian multi-instrumentalist, DJ and producer Lindstrøm and Wrangler, a project that brings together Stephen Mallinder of Cabaret Voltaire fame, Phil Winter from Tunng and John Foxx collaborator Benge. www.hull2017.co.uk

PLAYING HOST TO QUEEN VICTORIA Harewood House, near Leeds, was recently

used as a major set for ITV’s Victoria series. House Trust Harewood To celebrate the success of the programme, the opulent rooms on Harewood’s State Floor will come to life with costumes from the production. Outfits worn by Jenna Coleman who played Queen Victoria will be displayed throughout the 2017 season. Alongside the costumes, the exhibition will present a behind-the- scenes look at filming in a place like Harewood including how the team prepares and manages the house and transforms its rooms into sets. The exhibition runs until October 29. www.harewood.org

STORNOWAY WICK JOHN O’GROATS ABERDEEN GLASGOW

Sponsored by

Isle of Harris Car Hire

isleofharris-carhire.com Katy Dove memorial exhibition Taste of Grampian Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum

WHERE WHERE WHERE WHERE To the east of the town. Taxis One mile from the centre of Seven miles north-west of the About eight miles from the and car hire are available at the Wick, half an hour’s drive from city centre, off the A96. Regular centre of Glasgow. Regular airport. Car hire: Isle of Harris Thurso. Main bus and rail buses into the city centre. For shuttle service to centre Car Hire – see above. stations are near to Wick centre car hire see Europcar.co.uk Nearest rail station Paisley serving most places in Gilmour St, one mile. For car VISIT Caithness. Trains to Thurso and VISIT Lews Castle and grounds; The Winter Gardens, Duthie Park, hire see Europcar.co.uk Inverness. Post bus operates Stornoway Fish Smokers, Shell Polmuir Rd; Gordon Highlanders Thurso-Wick-Airport. Car hire: VISIT St; An Lanntair Arts Centre, Museum, Viewfield Rd. BARE ESSENTIALS: DESTINATIONS Dunnets offers airport pick-up The Burrell Collection, Pollock Kenneth Street, Stornoway. and drop-off, 01955 602103. STAY AT Country Park; Kelvingrove Art STAY AT The Chester Hotel, Queen’s Gallery and Museum, Argyle Hotel Hebrides, Tarbert; Royal VISIT Rd; Atholl Hotel, King’s Gate; St; the Mackintosh House at Wick Heritage Museum; St Hotel, Cromwell St, Stornoway; The Village Hotel, Kingswells; the Hunterian Museum and Art Fergus Gallery, Sinclair Terr; Scarista House, west Harris. Banchory Lodge Hotel; Skene Gallery, University Avenue. Pulteney Distillery, Huddart St. House Apartments, various STAY AT SHOP AT city locations; Bauhaus Hotel, Callanish Jewellery, Point St; STAY AT Radisson Blu, Argyle St; Ackergill Tower, Wick; Mackays Langstane Place. Borgh Pottery, Borgh (20 miles); Grasshoppers Penthouse Hotel, Hotel, Wick; The Brown Trout Buth Bheag, Tarbert (36 miles). Union St; Saint Judes, Bath St. Hotel, Station Rd, Watten, near SHOP AT Aberdeen Whisky Shop, Wick. DRINK AT Union St; Annie Mo’s, Union SHOP AT Chili Chili cocktail and vodka Starry Starry Night (retro), St (interiors); Granite Reef, the bar, Era, South Beach; The SHOP AT Downside Lane; Relics antiques, John O’Groats (pottery, Green (skate, surf, snow). Carlton Lounge, Francis St. Dowanside Lane; I J Mellis knitwear); Rotterdam St, Thurso (Both in Stornoway) (cheeses), Great Western Rd. (20 miles). DRINK AT Brewdog, Gallowgate; Eclectic

EAT AT Fizz, Union St; CASC, Stirling DRINK AT Digby Chick, Bank St; Golden DRINK AT The Bier Halle, Gordon St; Òran Cocktail Bar, Mackay’s Hotel, St; Under the Hammer, North Ocean, Cromwell St; Thai, Mór, Byres Road; Rio Café, Wick; the Alexander Bain Silver St. Church St; Stornoway Balti Hyndland St. Wetherspoons, Wick. House, South Beach. (All in EAT AT Stornoway). North Harbour Granite Park, Golden Sq; EAT AT EAT AT Balbir’s (Indian), Church St; Bistro, Scalpay. Bord de l’Eau, Market St, Wick; Foodstory Cafe, Thistle St; Ubiquitous Chip, Brel (Belgian), Le Bistro, Thurso; Captain’s Yorokobi by CJ, Huntly St; Tchai-Ovna (tea house), all WHAT’S ON Galley, Scrabster (22 miles). Rishi’s, George St; Aperitivo, Stornoway Half Marathon 2017, Ashton Lane. Bon Accord St; Sand Dollar May 27, start Lews Castle WHAT’S ON Cafe & Bistro, Beach Esplanade. College, May 27; Grinneas nan Katy Dove memorial exhibition, WHAT’S ON Poppies, Gallery of Modern Art, Eilean: The Islands Open Thurso Art Gallery & St Fergus WHAT’S ON to Jun 11; Clyde Life – exhibition Exhibition, An Lanntair, Jun Gallery, until Apr 15; Annual Look Again visual art and design of historic photographs, 17-Jul 29. Fiddle Rally, The Royal British festival, Aberdeen, Apr 27-May 1; Riverside Museum, to Dec; The Legion Thurso, Jun 10. Taste of Grampian food festival, Art of Comics – Kelvingrove Art Inverurie, Jun 3; Aberdeen Gallery, Apr to Sep. Highland Games, Jun 18.

Airport 01851 702256 Airport 01955 602215 Airport 0844 481 6666 Airport 0844 481 5555 www.hial.co.uk/stornoway-airport www.hial.co.uk/wick-airport.html www.aberdeenairport.com www.glasgowairport.com Eastern Airways flights to Eastern Airways flights to Aberdeen. Eastern Airways flights to Bergen, Eastern Airways flights Aberdeen. Onward connections Onward connections to Bergen, Cardiff, Durham Tees Valley, direct to Isle of Man to Bergen, Cardiff, Durham Cardiff, Durham Tees Valley, Humberside, Leeds Bradford, Tourist/Local Info 0141 204 4400 Tees Valley, Humberside, Humberside, Leeds Bradford, Newcastle, Norwich, Southampton, www.peoplemakeglasgow.com Leeds Bradford, Newcastle, Newcastle, Norwich, Stavanger, Stavanger, Stornoway, Wick Norwich, Stavanger, Wick Stornoway Tourist/Local Info 01224 269180 Tourist/Local Info 01851 703088 Tourist/Local Info 0845 22 55 121 www.visitabdn.com www.visitouterhebrides.co.uk www.wicktown.co.uk 34

NEWCASTLE DURHAM TEES VALLEY HUMBERSIDE LEEDS BRADFORD

North East LEGO® Landmarks Raby Hunt Francis Bacon: Nervous System* England v South Africa BARE ESSENTIALS: DESTINATIONS WHERE WHERE WHERE WHERE Seven miles north-west of the Five miles east of Darlington Fifteen miles east of Scun­ Nine miles north-west of Leeds city centre. Metro rail link every and ten miles west of thorpe, 20 miles south of Hull, centre, seven miles from few minutes to the city, Middlesbrough. Taxi fare to 16 miles west of Grimsby, 30 Bradford. Regular Airlink 757 Gateshead, the coast and Darlington approx £8. For car miles north of Lincoln. Regular bus from bus and rail stations to Sunderland. Half-hourly bus hire see Europcar.co.uk bus services to major towns. terminal. Taxi time 25 mins. For service. Taxi fare to city, approx Barnetby Station three miles car hire see Europcar.co.uk £12. For car hire see Europcar. VISIT from airport with Intercity con- mima (Middlesbrough Institute co.uk nections via Don­caster. Approx VISIT of Modern Art) Centre Square; Royal Armouries, Leeds; Leeds taxi fare to Hull £26. For car hire Locomotion, the National City Museum, Millennium VISIT see Europcar.co.uk Great North Museum, Centre for Railway Museum at Shildon; Square; National Media Museum, Life, Newcastle; Gateshead Hartlepool’s Maritime VISIT Bradford; Salts Mill, Saltaire. Quays for the Baltic and Sage Experience, Historic Quay. Museums Quarter, Hull; The Gateshead. Deep, Hull; Lincoln Castle and STAY AT DoubleTree by Hilton, Leeds; STAY AT Cathedral; Ferens Art Gallery, Hull. STAY AT Rockliffe Hall, Hurworth on Radisson Blu, The Headrow, Sandman Signature, Hotel Tees; Headlam Hall, near STAY AT Leeds; the New Ellington, Indigo, Jesmond Dene House, Darlington; Crathorne Hall Forest Pines Hotel, Broughton; Leeds; Dubrovnik boutique all Newcastle; Hilton, Gateshead. Hotel, Yarm; Wynyard Hall. Cave Castle Hotel, Brough; hotel, Oak Avenue, Bradford. Willerby Manor, Willerby; The SHOP AT SHOP AT SHOP AT White Hart, Lincoln. Jules B, Jesmond; Cruise, Psyche, Linthorpe Rd, Retro Boutique, Headingley Princess Square, Newcastle; Middles­brough; The House, SHOP AT Lane, Leeds; Harvey Nichols, Van Mildert, MetroCentre and Yarm High Street; Leggs, Bailgate and Steep Hill area, Briggate, Leeds; Victoria Durham. Skinnergate, Darlington. Lincoln; Henri Beene, Quarter, Leeds. Abbeygate, Grimsby. DRINK AT DRINK AT DRINK AT Crown Posada, Side; The Forth, George and Dragon, Yarm; DRINK AT Baby Jupiter, York Place, Leeds; Pink Lane; Bridge Hotel, Castle Black Bull, Frosterley. The Wig & Mitre, Steep Hill, Haigys, Lumb Lane, Bradford. Garth – all Newcastle. Lincoln; Ye Olde Black Boy, EAT AT EAT AT High St, Hull. EAT AT Raby Hunt, Summerhouse; Chandelier by Mumtaz, Clarence House of Tides, Quayside; Sardis, Northgate, Darlington; EAT AT Dock, Leeds; Brasserie Blanc, Blackfriars; Caffè Vivo (Live Dun Cow Inn, Sedgefield; The Figs Restaurant, Cleethorpes; Sovereign St, Leeds. Theatre); Red Mezze, Leazes Orangery, Rockliffe Hall. Brackenborough Hotel & WHAT’S ON Park Rd; Peace and Loaf, Restaurant, Louth; Wintering- Women, Work & War, Leeds Jesmond – all Newcastle. WHAT’S ON ham Field, Winteringham; Pipe Teesside Festival, Industrial Museum at Armley and Glass, South Dalton. WHAT’S ON Middlesbrough, Apr 21-24; Mills, until Sep 24; Live at Leeds North East LEGO® Landmarks at Stockton Duathlon. Apr 23; WHAT’S ON music festival, various venues, Life Science Centre, Newcastle, Distinctly Delicious Food Francis Bacon: Nervous Apr 29 weekend; Leeds Indie until May 14; BBC Radio3 Free Festival, Darlington, May 13-14. System, Ferens Art Gallery, Food Festival, May 11-28; Thinking Festival 2017, Sage Hull, until May 1; Beverley International cricket - England v Gateshead, Mar 17-19. Races, April 19 & 27. South Africa, Headingley, May 24.

Airport 0871 882 1121 Airport 01325 332811 Airport 0844 887 7747 Airport 0871 288 2288 www.newcastleinternational.co.uk www.durhamteesvalleyairport.com www.humbersideairport.com www.leedsbradfordairport.co.uk Eastern Airways flights to Eastern Airways flights to Aberdeen. Eastern Airways flights to Eastern Airways flights to Aberdeen Aberdeen, Belfast, Cardiff, Isle Onward connections to Bergen, Aberdeen. Onward connections and Southampton. Onward of Man. Onward connections to Stavanger, Stornoway, Wick to Bergen, Stavanger, Stornoway, connections to Bergen, Stavanger, Bergen, Stavanger, Stornoway, Tourist/Local Info Wick Stornoway, Wick Wick 01642 729700 / 264957 Tourist/Local Info 01482 486600 Tourist/Local Info 0113 242 5242 Tourist/Local Info www.discoverteesvalley.co.uk www.visithullandeastyorkshire.com www.visitleeds.co.uk 0191 277 8000 / 0191 478 4222 www.teesvalley-ca.gov.uk www.visitlincolnshire.com www.yorkshire.com www.visitnewcastlegateshead.com www.yorkshire.com * Francis Bacon's Head VI, 1949, Arts Council Collection, Southbank Centre, London © The Estate of Francis Bacon. All Rights Reserved. * Francis Bacon's Head VI, 1949, Arts Council Collection, Southbank Centre, BELFAST ISLE OF MAN ANGLESEY CARDIFF

Ulster Folk and Transport Museum Laxey Wheel Beaumaris Castle Cardiff Castle BARE ESSENTIALS: DESTINATIONS WHERE WHERE WHERE WHERE City Airport is three miles east One mile from Castletown, nine Six miles south east of Holyhead Twelve miles west of Cardiff, of Belfast City Centre. Shuttle miles south west of Douglas. and 20 miles north west of ten miles from Junction 33 on bus to Sydenham Station. Taxis Regular buses to Port Erin and Bangor. There are no car hire M4. Rail link, every hour, to city centre, approx. £10. Port St Mary, via Castletown, facilities on airport but this can connects airport to Cardiff Europcar info from and to Douglas via Ballasalla. be arranged with Europcar. Central and Bridgend.­ For car www.europcar.co.uk Taxi information in terminal. hire see Europcar.co.uk

Europcar info from VISIT Caernafon Castle; Beaumaris VISIT www.europcar.co.uk VISIT Titanic Experience, Belfast; Castle; Anglesey Sea Zoo, Cardiff Castle; Cardiff Bay Belfast Zoo; Ulster Folk and VISIT Brynsiencyn; Oriel Ynys Môn – Visitor Centre, Wales Transport Museum. Peel Castle; Manx Museum, local cultural history, with art Millennium Centre, Cardiff Bay; Douglas; Laxey Wheel, Laxey; galleries dedicated to Charles Norwegian Church Arts Centre, STAY AT Cregneash museum of Manx Tunnicliffe and Kyffin Williams. Cardiff Bay; Dr Who Europa Hotel, Great Victoria St; history and culture, overlooking Experience, Cardiff Bay. Bullitt boutique hotel, Church Calf of Man. STAY AT Lane; Malmaison, Victoria St. Treaddur Bay Hotel, beside the STAY AT STAY AT sea, near airport; Bull Hotel, Peterstone Court, in the Usk SHOP AT Mount Murray Hotel and Llangefni. Valley; St David’s Hotel & Spa, Co Couture, Chichester St; No Country Club; Hilton, Douglas; Havannah St, Cardiff Bay. Alibis bookstore; Victoria Sefton, Douglas. SHOP AT Square shopping centre. Crafty T’Arts, Cemaes Bay; The SHOP AT SHOP AT Little Chilli Shop, Beaumaris; St Mary Street for specialist DRINK AT George Devereau and Son for James Pringle Weavers, shops; Splott Market Crown Bar liquor saloon, all your kippery needs; Tower Llanfairpwllgwyngyll. (weekends), SE of city centre. Victoria St; Duke of York, House shopping centre, Commercial Court; Kitchen Bar, Douglas. DRINK AT DRINK AT Victoria Square. Britannia Inn and Paddlers Pen and Wig, Park Grove; Park DRINK AT Return, both Holyhead; Ship Inn, Vaults, Park Place. EAT AT The Bay, Port Erin; Liverpool Pentraeth. Mourne Seafood Bar, Bank St; Arms, Baldrine; Creek Inn, EAT AT Barking Dog, Malone Road; The Potted Pig, High St; ffresh, Dalby. EAT AT Coco, Linenhall St. Tavern on the Bay, Red Wharf Wales Millennium Centre; EAT AT Bay; Oyster Catcher, Rhosneigr; Purple Poppadom, Cowbridge WHAT’S ON L’Experience, Douglas; North The White Eagle, Rhoscolyn. Rd East. Crafted: Fine Art of Furniture, Restaurant, by harbour, Ulster Museum, to June 4; Douglas; Jean-Pierre’s Bistro, WHAT’S ON WHAT’S ON 2017 Ice Hockey World Vintage car rally, Anglesey Cardiff Dragon Boat Festival, Ramsey. Championship, SSE Arena, Showground, May 20-21; Atlantic Wharf, May 14; Vale of Apr 23-29. WHAT’S ON Beaumaris 30th anniversary Glamorgan Festival – classical Valhalla – Life and Death festival, May 23-29. music festival dedicated to the in Viking Britain, House of music of living composers, May Manannan, Peel, to April 21; 19-26; BBC Cardiff Singer of Isle of Man TT, May 22-Jun 9. the World 2017, St David’s Hall, June 11-18.

Airport 028 9093 9093 Airport 01624 821600 Airport 01407 878056 Airport 01446 711111 www.belfastcityairport.com www.gov.im/categories/travel- www.anglesey.gov.uk/transport- www.cardiff-airport.com Eastern Airways flights to Isle of traffic-and-motoring/isle-of-man- and-roads/public-transport/ Eastern Airways flights to Man and Newcastle airport anglesey-airport/ Aberdeen, Anglesey, Newcastle. Tourist/Local Info Eastern Airways flights to Belfast Eastern Airways flights to Cardiff Onward connections to Bergen, 028 9024 6609 and Newcastle Tourist/Local Info Stavanger, Stornoway, Wick www.visitbelfast.com Tourist/Local Info www.visitanglesey.co.uk Tourist/Local Info 02920 873573 www.visitisleofman.com www.discoveranglesey.com www.visitcardiff.com www.southernwales.com

Ulster Museum image copyright Northern Ireland Tourist Board. Beaumaris Castle image © Crown copyright (Visit Wales). Beaumaris Castle image © Crown Board. Tourist Ulster Museum image copyright Northern Ireland 36

NORWICH SOUTHAMPTON RODEZ NORWAY CH - visitnorway.com Norwich Castle The Bargate Rodez Cathedral Sola Strand Hotel BARE ESSENTIALS: DESTINATIONS WHERE WHERE WHERE STAVANGER Three miles north of the city. Five miles north of city. Parkway Six miles north-west of Rodez. Norway’s fourth largest city lies Hourly bus service into the city Station beside terminal, three Taxis to the centre of town cost on the country’s south-west centre. Approx taxi fare to trains hourly to Southam­pton about €25. For car hire see coast. The airport is just nine Norwich £7. For car hire see and London Waterloo. Buses Europcar.com miles out of town. Europcar.co.uk hourly to the city. For car hire

see Europcar.co.uk VISIT VISIT VISIT Musée Soulages gallery; Musée Pulpit Rock – a natural rock Norwich Cathedral, The Close; VISIT Fenaille (archaeology and formation that overlooks the Norwich Castle, Elm Hill; SeaCity Museum, Havelock Rd; history); Rodez Cathedral. Lysefjord. Sandringham Estate, Norfolk; Tudor House & Garden, Bugle Norwich Puppet Theatre, St; Solent Sky, Hall of Aviation, STAY AT STAY AT Mercure Cathédrale, on Avenue Whitefriars, Norwich. Gilbert Rd South. The Clarion, Myrhegaarden, Victor Hugo; La Ferme de Skagen Brygge, all in the city STAY AT STAY AT Bourran (four star city centre); centre; Sola Strand Hotel, on The Maids Head Hotel, The White Star Tavern and Aux Berges de l’Aveyron at the beach, near the airport. Tombland; De Vere Dunston Hall Dining Rooms, Oxford St; Grand Onet-le-Château. Hotel & Golf Club, Ipswich Rd; Harbour Hotel, West Quay Rd; WHAT’S ON Marriott Sprowston Manor Hotel Best Western Chilworth Manor. SHOP AT Sola Airshow 2017, Stavanger Open-air markets at Place du & Country Club; Barnham Broom Airport Sola celebrates 80 Bourg, Wed morning, or in Place Hotel & Spa, Honingham Rd; SHOP AT years, Jun 10-11. WestQuay Shopping Centre, du Sacré Coeur, Fri and Sat Norfolk Mead Hotel, Coltishall. city centre; Antiques Quarter, afternoons; speciality shops in SHOP AT Old Northam Rd; The Marlands lanes behind Cathedral; BERGEN Jarrold’s, London St; Ginger Shopping Centre, Civic Chocolaterie Agnès et Pierre, Bergen airport Flesland is Ladies Wear, Timberhill. Centre Rd. place de la Cité; Maison du approximately 12 miles south- Livre, Passage des Maçons. west of the centre of Bergen. DRINK AT DRINK AT The Fat Cat, West End St; The The Cellar, West Marland Rd; DRINK AT VISIT Adam & Eve, Bishopgate; The The Duke of Wellington, Bugle Le Divan, rue Bétaille; Le Café Troldhaugen, the home of Wine Press, Woburn Court, St; The Pig in the Wall, Western de la Paix, place Jean Jaurès; composer Edvard Grieg. Guildhall Hill; The Last Wine Esplanade. Au Bureau, esplanade des Norway in a Nutshell – a short Bar, St Georges St. Rutènes. tour (ideally three days) of some EAT AT the dramatic scenery nearby, EAT AT Olive Tree, Oxford St; SeaCity EAT AT including the Breathtaking Flam Tatlers, Tombland; Mambo Museum café, Havelock Road; Les Jardins de l’Acropolis, rue Railway. Jambo, Lower Goat Lane; Coriander Lounge, Below Bar. d’Athènes; restaurant Isabelle Umberto’s Trattoria Auguy, place Carrière. STAY AT Italia, St Benedicts St. WHAT’S ON Radisson Blu Royal or the Port Out, Southampton Home: WHAT’S ON mid-market Thon Bergen WHAT’S ON The Age of the Ocean Liner, Architectural Treasures of Brygge, both on the old Norfolk and Norwich Festival, SeaCity Museum, until Jun 4; the Spa Towns of the Massif quayside. May 12-28; Norwich City of Ale Southampton Sailing Week, Central, all year at Parc Thermal, 2017, May 25-Jun 5; Norwich May 24-29; Common People Cransac; Grand Falconer’s WHAT’S ON Gaming Festival, The Forum, festival, Southampton Common, Medieval Festival, Cordes-sur- Bergen city marathon, May 29-Jun 3. May 27-28. Ciel, July 14-15. Apr 29.

Airport 01603 411923 Airport 0870 040 0009 Airport +33 (0)5 65 75 76 77 Stavanger Airport + 47 67 03 10 00 www.norwichairport.co.uk www.southamptonairport.com www.aeroport-rodez.fr www.avinor.no/en/airport/stavanger Eastern Airways flights to Eastern Airways flights to Eastern Airways flights to Paris Bergen Airport + 47 67 03 15 55 Aberdeen. Onward connections Aberdeen, Leeds Bradford, Rodez. Orly. Seasonal services to www.avinor.no/en/airport/bergen to Bergen, Stavanger, Stornoway, Tourist/Local Info 023 8083 3333 Southampton from June 2 and Eastern Airways flights to Aberdeen, Wick www.discoversouthampton.co.uk Milan, July 7. Onward connections Newcastle. Onward connections Tourist/Local Info 01603 213999 to Leeds Bradford. to Cardiff, Durham Tees Valley, www.visitnorwich.co.uk  Tourist/Local Info Humberside, Leeds Bradford, +33 (0)5 65 75 76 77 Norwich, Southampton, Stornoway,

www.tourisme.grande-rodez.com Wick

www.tourisme-aveyron.com

38

BARE ESSENTIALS:EXPLORATION DESTINATIONS EXPRESS on-airport facilitiesatScatsta). 693 636(notethatthere are no boltscarhire.co.uk orcall01595 Lerwick. Forhire carvisitwww. Mainland, andalso24milesfrom tipof located atthesouthern is theislands’commercial airport, Sullom Voe oilterminal.Sumburgh of Lerwick,afewmilesfrom the Scatsta is24milesnorth-west Scatsta andSumburgh Airports. contract fortheoilindustrytoboth Airwaysoperatesunder Eastern Jun 22-24;Unstfest,Jul8-16. 27-30; Bergen toSheltand race, Shetland FolkFestival,Apr Bonhoga Gallery, untilApr23; Toby Patersonexhibition, Vord Resort,Unst. Busta HouseHotel,Brae;Saxa Bar, Lerwick;KilnBar, Scalloway. Mid BraeInn,Brae;TheLounge Brewery, SaxaVord. & SonKnitwear, Lerwick;Valhalla Shetland Fudge,Lerwick;Jamieson Hotel, Centralmainland. Vord Resort,Unst;Scalloway Busta HouseHotel,Brae;Saxa (both Mainland). Lerwick; Jarlshof,Grutness Britain; ShetlandMuseum, tipof Unst, thenorthernmost Mareel, Lerwick;MuckleFlugga, STAY AT STAY VISIT WHAT’S ON AT EAT ATDRINK SHOP AT SHETLAND www.shetland.org Tourist/Local Info01595693434 Airways fortheoilindustry. Aberdeen, operatedbyEastern to dailycharterservices Frequent www.hial.co.uk/sumburgh-airport/ Sumburgh Airport01950460905 CORPORATE ROUTES CORPORATE Sponsored by

www.bustahouse.com

0101 www.visitbristol.co.uk Tourist/Local Info 0333 321 Chester and Toulouse to flights charter Airways Eastern www.bristolairport.co.uk 4444 0871 334 Airport Lido Bristol,Clifton. Michael Caines,CollegeGreen; Pieminister, StokesCroft; St. Bar, Park Lounge and Pool Room Elbow The micro-brewery, Colston St; award-winning Zero Degrees Circus. Cabot Causeway; Cribbs Broadmead; at Mall Galleries Nicholas Markets and St St; Park and Village Clifton Clifton. Georgian merchant’s housein Almondsbury; No38Clifton, Aztec Hotel&Spa,West, Great Western Dock­ Narrow Quay;SSGreat Britain, M Shed,Harbourside;Arnolfini, Europcar.co.uk. see hire Weston-super-Mare. For car to services local Also single. £7 mins. 30 time journey half-hourly to centre, city approx service Coach Bristol. of south-west miles Eight until May 17. May until Gallery, &Art Museum Bristol Ancient Mexico in Colour, Breton: 23; Adela April until Gallery &Art Museum Bristol from the Staffordshire Hoard, Gold Saxon Treasures: Warrior EAT AT EAT ATDRINK SHOP AT AT STAY VISIT WHAT’S ON BRISTOL

yard.

M Shed

Chris Bahn www.visitchester.com 647 7868; 0845 Info Tourist/Local Bristol and Toulouse to flights charter Airways Eastern www.aviationparkgroup.co.uk 01244Airport 538568 C 4; May Chester starts Museum; Chester – Races amphitheatre; Grosvenor roman Zoo; Chester Europcar.co.uk. Chester. of south-west miles Four Bolesworth Castle, Jun 15-18. Jun Castle, Bolesworth world-class equestrian sport, International 2017,CSI**** 27; May Bolesworth events, family friendly, Roman-themed 2017, Day Roman plus racing Chester Races: Racecourse; 15-17, Apr Festival, Chester Drink and Food Chester Table, MusicHallPassage. Jules, NorthgateSt;Chef’s Grosvenor, EastgateSt;Chez Simon RadleyattheChester St. 15, Foregate Number St; Tap, Bridge Lower Brewery The Dublin Packet, St; Northgate St; Werburgh Botanist, The The Rows;Grosvenor Centre. St; Carden Park,Broxton Rd. Chester Grosvenor, Eastgate ABode, Grosvenor Rd; STAY AT STAY VISIT CHESTER WHAT’S ON AT EAT AT DRINK SHOP AT athedral.

For car hire see For carhire see

Eastgate

www.toulouse-tourisme.com 18 892 01 33 80 info Tourist Bristol and Chester to flights charter Airways Eastern www.toulouse.aeroport.fr/en 00 00 38 825 +33 Airport For carhire seeEuropcar.com minutes, €5.Taxi from €25. Shuttle busevery20 Five mileswestofthecity. Carmes; LePère Léon. Grand Hôteldel’Opéra;Côté Cathedral; SpaceCity. de laDaurade;StÉtienne’s Place duCapitoleandQuai 2018. Space City, toDecember Astronauts, theExhibition, of Fine-Arts,untilApr17; Museum –Toulouse Museum 20th centuries,Augustins inner courtyards from 16thto how artistshaveportrayed Windows ontoCourtyards, Maison duCassoulet. L’Amphitryon, Colomiers;La Mouette. Péniche LeCridela Le Ramier;7Discoteca; rue CroixArts; Baragnon. des rue Hugo; Victor Marché TOULOUSE STAY AT STAY VISIT WHAT’S ON AT EAT ATDRINK AT SHOP River Garonne, Toulouse

Skye image: © VisitScotland / Kenny Lam, all rights reserved ESSENTIAL GUIDE EXPLORATION EXPRESS associated withtheheroic king… of theArthurianlegendandsomeplaces it provides anotheropportunitytoremind ourselves Snowdonia) andinLeavesdenStudios,Hertfordshire, Filmed onlocationinScotlandandWales (Conwyand Blacklegs. Beckham –yesDavidasleaderofthe Bana, AstridBergès-FrisbeyasGuinevere, andDavid Charlie HunnamasArthur, alongsideJudeLaw, Eric Sword comestoUKcinemasinMarch 2017. Itstars Guy Ritchie’s newfilmKingArthur:Legendofthe Locations associated King the legendary Arthur with LANDS OF LEGENDS LANDS ESSENTIAL GUIDE ESSENTIAL The King’s Knot, a geometrical earthwork in the former royal royal former the in earthwork ageometrical King’s Knot, The Mordred. king, unfaithful while held captive by the unknown otherwise Pictish being for animals by wild killed wife his had Arthur that view: alternative an to depict said is Meigle at found stone aPictish while spot, the marks Vanora’s Mound, entitled her. slew Aplaque, and morals to her take didn’t people However, local Meigle. at up wound and wanderer, meaning Guinevere. her name she to changed Apparently Vanora, wife, flighty Arthur’s of remains the houses Perth, of north Meigle, at churchyard the in agrave that it has Legend legend. Arthurian to the connections many boasts Scotland also but film, new the in alocation as serve Skye, of Isle the on Quiraing, the of landscape extraordinary the does only Not SCOTLAND The Quiraing,IsleofSkye 39 © VisitScotland / Paul Tomkins, all rights reserved © VisitScotland / Paul Tomkins,

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Vanora’s Mound in Meigle Parish Churchyard, Perthshire; Carlisle Castle; King Arthur’s Round Table, Winchester; Glastonbury Tor, Somerset; King Arthur’s Labyrinth, near Machynlleth; Arthur's Stone, Cefn Bryn; King Arthur’s Round Table, Cumbria.

gardens at Stirling Castle, had already been Various castles in and around Glasgow have Mr Bullen believes monks at Glastonbury associated with the Legend of King Arthur been cited as seats of the man himself, spread the rumour King Arthur was buried in for more than 600 years, when including Dumbarton (known as Al Cluith or Somerset to save their abbey from financial archaeologists struck legendary gold in Castrum Arthuri). Welsh sources have St ruin, whereas a Latin inscription on the summer 2011. Mungo as Arthur’s chief bishop at his Yarrow Stone, discovered near the Borders Dumbarton headquarters. Arthur’s enemies town 400 years ago, suggests this is the The team from Glasgow University and local were heathen Scots to the west, Picts to the legendary king’s last place of rest. archaeological groups found a “circular north, and Angles to the east and he is Furthermore, he suggests, a nearby pond feature” beneath the 17th century mound, reputed to have fought many battles across could hold the king’s infamous weapon, casting new light on a tradition that the lowland Scotland, small wonder then that Excalibur. Round Table itself had been located. members of the Campbell clan maintain The 14th century Scots poet John Barbour belief in their descent from such a warrior. Other claims have Arthur buried in the said the round table was south of Stirling Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Aberdeen and Eildon Hills, near Melrose, and Merlin at Glasgow Castle, and 100 years later, William of Drumelzier, near the hamlet of Merlindale, Worcester told how “King Arthur kept the A few years ago, archaeologist Damian on the River Tweed. Round Table at Stirling Castle”. Others Bullen published his claim that Arthur’s Nearest Eastern Airways airports – Newcastle claim the iconic Arthur’s Seat, in Edinburgh, grave is at the Yarrow Stone, near Selkirk, is the real location. and not at Glastonbury as tradition holds. NORTH OF ENGLAND

In Cumbria lies the rumoured site of King Arthur’s Round Table, a Neolithic earthwork henge, dating from about 2000 BC, but much later believed to be King Arthur’s jousting arena. Legend has it that Carlisle was King Arthur’s Camelot, with Arthur and his adviser Merlin most likely making use of the Roman fortifications, most particularly at Birdoswald, east of the city. A more likely Arthurian connection here is Arthur’s final Battle of Camlann, which is said to have been fought nearby. Alnwick Castle (more recently famous as Harry Potter’s Hogwarts), is cited in medieval writings as the castle of Lancelot, King Arthur’s Knight, while Pendragon Castle, in Cumbria’s Eden Valley, is said to have been the seat of Arthur’s father, Uther Pendragon. Nearest Eastern Airways airports – Newcastle and 40 Durham Tees Valley © VisitBritain / Britain on View © VisitBritain / Britain on View

Ruthin, is said to have been the chopping mountains of Snowdonia. There are no SOUTH OF ENGLAND block Arthur used to slay a love-rival, Huail. records of genuine Arthurian connections Carn March Arthur, near Aberdovey, in here – but then what’s new about that! Although it actually dates from somewhat mid-Wales, bears what is alleged to be the later, it’s well worth visiting the Great Hall at You could, however, head for the Preseli hoof-print of Arthur’s horse Llamrai, Winchester to see the marvellous “Round Hills, in Pembrokeshire, and pay homage to imprinted during a hectic monster-slaying Table”, adorning a wall in the splendid 13th the warrior at Bedd Arthur, a set of standing century aisled building. session. Legend also has it that Arthur killed stones said to mark Arthur’s final resting off Snowdon’s resident giant, Rhita, and his place. Now where have we heard that Windsor Great Park will play its part in the men supposedly covered the corpse in before? film. No stranger to a film crew, the Park has stones at the summit of the country’s peak. formed a backdrop for films ranging from Just north of the ridge summit of Cefn Bryn, Harry Potter and Snow White and the Two Welsh lakes, Llyn Llydaw and Llyn near Reynoldston on the Gower Peninsula, Huntsman, to World War Z. The 4,800 acres Ogwen, claim to be the watery resting place there is a Neolithic burial ground, Maen Ceti of parkland are shrouded in myths and of Arthur’s sword, Excalibur in English and – Arthur's Stone in English. Legend has it legends, and said to be visited by the ghost Caledfwlch in Welsh. Both are in the that Arthur threw a stone from Llanelli, of Herne the Hunter on a phantom stallion. Snowdonia National Park, and while Llydaw which landed on this spot… Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Southampton is inaccessible, Llyn Ogwen is popular with walkers heading up dramatic Tryfan. Beautiful Bardsey Island – off the Llyn Of course it is in the South West where the Peninsula, is believed by some to be the Isle strongest links with the Arthurian legend At the Corris Craft Village, near Machynlleth, of Avalon from Arthurian legend; apparently can be found. Cornwall boasts the iconic King Arthur’s Labyrinth is a specially Arthur sleeps in a cave there, waiting to rise clifftop ruin of Tintagel Castle, which claims created visitor attraction, which takes you up and save Wales in its direst hour of need. to be where Arthur was conceived. by boat, through a “magical waterfall” and Nearest Eastern Airways airports – Cardiff and deep into old mineworkings beneath the Anglesey The town of Glastonbury is home to the ruins of a 2,000-year-old Abbey, said to be the final resting place of King Arthur in the mystical Isle of Avalon, and where Lancelot brought Guinevere’s body after she was said to have died at nearby Amesbury Abbey (if she didn’t die in Scotland, that is!). Nearest Eastern Airways airports – Bristol and Southampton

WALES

Wales lays claim to many haunts associated with the legend of King Arthur, his mighty Excalibur and the fabled magician, Merlin. The first known reference to him was in a Welsh poem written in about AD 594, and Arthur’s tale is deeply engrained in Welsh folklore and recalled in many place names. Indeed, almost every region of Wales has its own set of myths, connect- ing Arthur and his court to the land. Maen Huail, in the North Wales town of © Crown copyright (2011) Visit Wales, all rights reserved THE LAST WORD with Harry Pearson A HARD HITTING HIGHLAND GAME

Nearly two decades ago I travelled up to the Cairngorms to watch a game of shinty. It was December and so cold even the air had goose bumps. Shinty is a swashbuckling sport, the Errol Flynn version of hockey. It is the sport AN EASTERN AIRWAYS MAGAZINE SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT IN PARTNERSHIP WITH VISITABERDEENSHIRE of the Scottish Highlands, played between clubs with evocative names – Glenurquhart, Caberfeidh, Lochaber – at poetically monikered venues, like Parc na Laoch or Eilean Bheannchair, with spectacular views of snow- capped mountains and glimmering lochs. For some reason that I have never quite fathomed I had played the sport at my primary school outside Middlesbrough, a place with altogether less romantic scenery, unless you go all misty-eyed at the sight of a chemical plant. Giving 22 kids from Teesside sticks and encouraging them to swing them through the air was a bold decision from our teacher, the sturdy Miss Thompson, but it paid off “ THE BALL WAS BLASTED ABOUT AND THE – we loved the game, and I believe that if you ever get a chance to watch a CURVED WOODEN STICKS CLEAVED THE match you will love it too. Twenty years ago, shinty was still HEAVY ATMOSPHERE LIKE CLAYMORES…” played in the winter – in 2003 it was moved to the summer months to howls on a motorcycle, thus unwittingly After the wounded player had been of outrage from traditionalists, who becoming the inspiration for Steve sent off to hospital in Inverness, the saw it as a clear indication that McQueen’s character in The Great gash above his eye flapping like a everyone had gone soft. Escape and one of my childhood idols. second mouth, I said to the man: “So that doesn’t happen very often, then?” I stayed the night in Kingussie. The game was terrific. The ball was Kingussie is the home of the self-styled blasted about and the curved wooden “Oh no,” he replied cheerily. “Very Kings of Shinty. The Kings were in the sticks cleaved the heavy atmosphere rarely. Hardly ever more than once or middle of a four-year unbeaten run and like claymores. twice a game.” well on their way to the eighth of 20 “Do a lot of people get injured playing consecutive league titles (a world Just as when the dentist tells you that this?” I said to the bundle of clothes record for any sport). I had chosen not “this won’t hurt a bit” you know to standing next to me. to watch them and their star forward brace yourself, so it is with sport. The Ronald Ross, whose 1,000-goal career “Not at all, not at all,” the man inside more violent and dangerous it is, the had earned him the nickname, the them replied in a Highland accent that more people talk up its safety. The Ronaldo of the Glens (after the original wasn’t so much lilting as capering o’er opposite holds true. Football, for goofy Brazilian, Ronaldo, not the hill and dale. instance, is constantly marred by current preening Portuguese version) horrific and shameful brawls, brutal “For yourself now, it would be and instead travelled a few miles by fracas and mass fights from which, dangerous, naturally. But these lads bus to Newtonmore. mysteriously, everyone emerges have played since they left the cradle. without a nick or a scratch to their I had made this decision partly They can anticipate the flight of the ball moisturised skin. because Newtonmore were playing the and the movement of the sticks as splendidly named Ballachulish, but surely as…” At which point our Shinty is tough and skilful. The season mainly because the president of the conversation was interrupted by the now runs from March till the end of club, Sir Thomas Macpherson had dull thunk of wood on skull, and cries September. Get along to a game. You once escaped from a Nazi PoW camp of “Doctor, Doctor!” from the pitch. won’t be disappointed. 42 ABERDEEN &ABERDEENSHIRE AN EASTERN AIRWAYS MAGAZINE SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT IN PARTNERSHIP WITH VISITABERDEENSHIRE

BEYOND WORDS BUT NOT BEYOND REACH True Majesty. True North. True Scotland

AB VisitAberdeenshire Fly easternairways.com DN 43 Marischal College, Aberdeen WELCOME

Eastern Airways Magazine is delighted to work in partnership with VisitAberdeenshire to bring you this special supplement. Inside we offer a taste of some of to Aberdeen International Airport than any This supplement also highlights some of the great reasons to visit the city of other airline, thanks to its comprehensive the great events and festivals planned Aberdeen and the countryside of network of links to UK cities with interests for the region this year, as well as its Aberdeenshire – from the region’s rich in the offshore and energy sectors. exciting food and drink menu. We hope ancient and more recent history, to its you enjoy reading this supplement and In addition to the airline’s scheduled distinctive culture and customs, and that it encourages you to enjoy more service network, it offers frequent the magnificent vistas of its mountains, – and longer – visits to Aberdeen and flights from Stavanger and Bergen, moorlands and coastline. Aberdeenshire! and further afield from destinations With more than 300 castles, 55 golf throughout Norway, thanks to a codeshare For more information on Aberdeen and courses, eight distilleries and five ski partnership with leading Norwegian airline Aberdeenshire visit www.visitabdn.com resorts, there’s just so much to see Widerøe. Eastern Airways also provides and do! high frequency dedicated oil industry support services from Scatsta and Eastern Airways offers more flights daily Sumburgh, in Shetland. THE EASTERN AIRWAYS TEAM shire This publication is produced as a supplement to Eastern Airways Magazine. Eastern Published for Eastern Airways by Gravity Magazines, Abbey Business Centre, Airways is Europe’s leading provider of fixed-wing air services for the oil and gas Pity Me, Durham, DH1 5JZ. industry and, thanks to its strategic connections from Aberdeen and Stavanger, an www.gravity-consulting.com Tel: +44 (0)191 383 2838. important player in the offshore energy sector. Publisher: Stan Abbott Design: Barbara Allen

Copies of this supplement have been produced as a stand-alone publication, Advertising: Liz Reekie Tel: +44 (0) 7563 796103 / +44 (0) 1434 240947

Visit Aberdeen distributed by VisitAberdeenshire, the destination management organisation for e-mail: [email protected] Aberdeen and Aberdeenshire. Print: Buxton Press

AB DN www.easternairways.com AB DN VisitAberdeenshire ISSN: 1477-3031 © March 2017 www.visitabdn.com

Cover: Buchan Ness lighthouse on the Aberdeenshire coast

44 44 the castle with the Braemar the castlewith Braemar celebrate adecade ofrunning the year. Thecommunitywill a seriesofeventsthroughout courtyard garden and running as welllookingafterthe visitors round thecastle, The volunteersalsoguide develop thegrounds. exterior ofthecastleand of fundraisingtorepair the on anotherambitiousround community isembarking the roof nowwatertight–the to repair theroof and–with already raised£0.5million Local volunteershave visitors. last year, attracted12,000 now employssixstaff and, visitor attraction.TheCastle community tooperateasa Castle wastakenoverbythe the 17thcenturyBraemar generations. Ten yearsago, historic landmarkforfuture National Parkhassaveda heart oftheCairngorms A tinycommunityinthe HISTORICCASTLE BRAEMAR VOLUNTEERS HELP SAVE NEWS UPDATE

Festivals. Mountain andCreative Arts Games Centre, andnew Hub, plansforaHighland disused church intoanArts including theconversionofa other projects inthevillage, has beenthespurforaraftof The successofthecastle attraction. for a21stcenturyvisitor up tothestandard needed £1 now needstoraiseanother are volunteersatthecastle, whom more thantenpercent 400-strong community, of Grade Alistedbuilding.The repairs required forthe for ensuringalltheextensive community isresponsible lease”, whichmeansthe 2007 ona“repairing 50-year from Invercauld estatein took overBraemarCastle Braemar CommunityLtd July 23. of theCastleonSaturday Highland Fling,inthegrounds million to bring the castle million tobringthecastle SCOTLAND TRUE TASTE OF A FOR GAMES HIGHLAND VISIT THE visitabdn.com/what-to-do/festivals-and-events/highland-games For informationonallHighlandGamesvisit www.braemarcastle.co.uk Braemar 5XR AB35 for10%discount Quote EA 7 days, July and August to end ofOctoberApril –Wednesday to Sunday fromOpen 10am–5pm Guided Tours rooms of12furnished of Jacobites, soldiers and ghosts •AudioEnglish/French/German or Seat ofClan Farquharson Highland stories with history •Experience Celebrating 10years operation, ofcommunity a warm welcome guaranteeda warm is the Queen at the Queenat the Braemar the Braemar Her Majesty Her Majesty Gathering CASTLE BRAEMAR BRAEMAR Fairytale 17 heart ofCairngormsheart National Park •  • • Highlights include: Games takingplacethissummer. There are plentyofHighland traditional sportscelebrated. war, andmanyotherlongstanding dancing, thecabertoss,tug-o- Scottish culture, withHighland will giveyouafeelfortherich Highland Gamesduringyourstay Attending oneofthemany events calendar. important datesintheregion’s famous HighlandGamesare Aberdeenshire’s internationally for centuries,Aberdeen and An ancienttraditionhonoured  September 2 The BraemarGathering– Games –August26 Lonach HighlandGatheringand June18 Aberdeen HighlandGames– th century Castle century inthe

45 AB NEWS DN VisitAberdeenshire 46 AB VisitAberdeenshire DN ABOUT THE AREA History iswritlarge too.Ancientsites mountains tocycle. from, wavestosurf,slopesskiand championship golfcoursestoteeoff thrill-seekers, withMunros tobag, admired byevensomeofthebiggest expansive coastlines.It’s andestination vast dunes,widesandybeachesand Caledonian forests, rolling farmland, estates, expansesofmoorland,ancient You canroam formilesacross great of Aberdeenshire’s goldencoastline. of RoyalDeesideandthe165miles The area issetbetweenthemountains Scotsman). architecturally distinctiveinEurope” (The North Seaharbour–is“oneofthemost streets anddolphinsleapintheworking dock rightupagainstthecitycentre largest city–where impressive ships Geographic). Aberdeen, Scotland’s third world’s top-ratedcoastlines”(National last great placesonEarth”to“oneofthe Aberdeenshire stretches from “oneofthe True Scotland. True North. True Majesty. In summer, daysare nearendlessand for theirfresh clearairand qualityoflight. with bigskiesandwidehorizons,loved Aberdeen andAberdeenshire are places and Highlandgames. traditions offiddle-playing,bothyballads feel itsdistinctiveculture aliveinitsrich original Scotslanguage–Doricand region. You canstillhearwords from an still existsinthewarpandweftof A long-standingdeep-seatedculture Deeside. Balmoral Castle,isinmajesticRoyal – theRoyalFamily’s summerresidence, has longbeenlovedbymonarchs too film-makers andwriters.Aberdeenshire understandably –countlessfamous searching forstrikingsceneryand– it treasured byhistorybuffs, those were plantedinAberdeenshire, making followed, nofewerthan300castles ancient Picts.Inthemillenniathat Aberdeenshire asaheartlandofthe and symbolsmarkAberdeen and or cosyB&Bs–thechoiceisyours. hotels, exclusive-usecastles,glamping, to worryaboutwhere tostay–five-star And whenyouarrive,won’t have are wellwithinyourreach. Glasgow. Aberdeen andAberdeenshire a-half hourdrivefrom Edinburgh or Scotland-round tripit’s onlyatwo-and- from Cardiff; andifyou’re planninga Bergen andStavanger, atwo-hourflight just overanhour’s flightfrom Norwich, than anhour’s flightfrom Newcastle; destinations worldwide.Aberdeen isless easier thankstodirect flights from 50 of thisforyourselfhasneverbeen The bestnewsisthatdiscoveringall to visitthisyear. it oneofthemostappealingdestinations Now, itsauthenticScottishfeelismaking its oil,fish,beef,andwhisky. and foritsnaturalresources –itsgranite, track, knownratherasaseatoflearning The region isusedtobeingoff thetourist majesty ofthisarea. are sure tobeawe-inspired bythetrue to dawn.Nomatterthetimeofyear, you own romance asmoonlightgivesway walls. And99stonecircles exudetheir crystals glintinthecity’s famousgranite light ofeachnewday. Trillions oftiny Here, mainlandScotlandseesitsfirst Lights. spectacularly litbytheNorthern deep, longandstarry–onoccasion sunsets lingerlong.Inwinter, nightsare Royal Deeside,Aberdeenshire distinctive Doricculture, andare uniquely proudly rooted inthepeopleandtheir their owndistinctive twist–they’re It’s truetosaythattheeventshave Aberdeenshire. entertainment onoffer inAberdeen and These are justsomeexamplesofthe Locally produced foodanddrinkmarkets. and artists.Championshipgolfevents. Outdoor concerts.Famouscomedians Games. West Endtheatre productions. More than12majorfestivals. Highland culture and inthe in the people deeply rooted festivals are Events and Dunnottar Castle,Aberdeenshire clifftop ruins,medievalfortresses, Scottish remains ofIron Agehillforts,inancient and iswaitingtobeexplored, inthe and occupation.Theevidencestillexists and war, rebellion, uprising,independence centuries ofturbulenthistory–invasions place ofstrategicimportancethroughout ofScotlandhasbeena This corner stay in. you canvisit–andsomeeven the BritishIsles.Mostyoucansee,many more here peracre thananywhere elsein for Aberdeenshire’s 300castles:there are These are someofthespectacularsettings farmland, andperched oncliffs’ edges. mountain pass,amongrichrolling fast-flowing river, onahighsnowbound Deep inanancientpineforest, besidea Bothy, Wooden ortheBlue Lamp. Barn atmospheric venues includingtheSalmon to dramaticeffect. Otherstakeplaceinside quality oflightinbothsummerand winter are heldintheopenair, usingthespecial the centre ofthecosmopolitancity. Some among thefarmlandandglens,or bangin unique setting;alongthedramatic coast, Events andfestivalsare heldintheirown significance. traditional, contemporaryorofworld-wide celebrated instyle,whetherthat’s and spectacular surroundings More than 300castles inancient the Highlands”. the Highlands”. by QueenVictoriaas“mydearparadisein since the19thcentury, famouslydescribed summer residence oftheRoyalFamily most well-knowncastleisBalmoral–the their ownright.OfcourseAberdeenshire’s shire’s castleshavebecomefamousin In thecenturiessince,manyofAberdeen - fortifications addedinthe18thcentury. baronial castles,Jacobeanmansions,and Aberdeen HighlandGames really starttounderstand thisspecial place! an eventwhileyou’re here, andthen you’ll traditions orspark newones.Joininwith ties stillcometogethertocontinue ancient This isapartoftheworldwhere communi- and showingoff thefinestpolishedgranite. A-listed Aberdeen MusicHall,alldressed wedding cake”,andthetwocenturies old Billy Connollyas“likeplayingagig insidea His Majesty’s Theatre, oncedescribedby its two“nationaltreasures” –theopulent The cityiswellknownforhostingeventsin Disney andFrancoZeffirelli. Robert LouisStevenson,BramStoker, Walt storytellers across theworld,including extraordinary castleshaveinspired famous In more recent yearssomeofourother deenshire’s mosttreasured viewpoints. roaring NorthSea,makingitoneofAber it’s anawe-inspiringruin,lookingoverthe that ithidtheScottishcrown jewels.Today, a clifftop, wasatonetimesomysterious Dunnottar Castle,perched ontheedgeof - 47 AB CASTLES, FESTIVALS AND EVENTS DN VisitAberdeenshire FOOD AND DRINK

Full-flavoured, hearty and comforting world-famous food and drink It’s no coincidence that Aberdeen and clear springs and moorland peat in this the place. A traditional fisherman’s rowie Aberdeenshire are the producers of so area help to produce the perfect dram of or buttery – the local breakfast roll – flat, many world-class favourites – this region whisky. flaky and rich. A succulent steak. The is acclaimed for its home-grown produce. freshest sea food, from fine dining at the The full-flavoured, hearty and comforting It’s known for the quality and scale of its harbour mouth to fish and chips on a original Cullen Skink packs a powerful arable land and rich pastures, which are prom. punch, and the Aberdeen Angus beef home to a wealth of venison and game. is much-prized. Dean’s rich traditional Contemporary and creative menus, and For seafood, Peterhead is Europe’s largest shortbread is made in Aberdeenshire local produce can all be found here in white fish seaport and Fraserburgh is and the area is also home to craft beer quirky or coastal city cafés, fine-dining the biggest for shellfish – and there are revolutionaries, BrewDog. The flagship bar restaurants and country houses – not to fishing harbours and markets all round mention that Aberdeenshire’s “water of is also here and you can even get a tour of these 165 miles of coast. The region’s two life” (whisky) can be sampled at many BrewDog’s distillery, in Ellon. rivers are well stocked too, with some of stylish city bars as well as coastal and the best salmon and trout, and the clean, For visitors there’s every chance to taste traditional pubs. Get into the ‘spirit’ of Scotland’s ancient art of whisky production at some of the world’s best-known distilleries. Nature provides the wherewithal of Aberdeenshire” is produced by for Aberdeenshire’s “water of life”. a cluster of distilleries dating from Whether it’s the toasted barley from the 18th and 19th centuries. Here the fertile farmlands, the ice-clear visitors can get right up close to shire mountain water from burns and traditional skills in rural settings among springs, the smoky peats and heather picturesque villages, wooded hills honey from heath and moorland, or and rolling fields. Distilleries include simply the sparkling fresh air – the Ardmore, Fettercairn, GlenDronach or whisky distilleries are busy bottling the Knockdhu. On the coast you will also Visit Aberdeen essence of this beautiful place. find Glenglassaugh (its fans say you can taste the sea) and if you venture AB DN Aberdeenshire is near to Moray, the into the Cairngorm National Park you birthplace of global whisky brands, will come across Royal Lochnagar. including Glenfiddich, the Glenlivet, Chivas Regal and McCallan; these Many of these distilleries will let you brands have been lovingly created here pay an informal visit; some ask you for years. Even though the methods to make an appointment. Others of distilling are almost identical, each offer regular guided tours and tutored whisky has its own unique flavour, tastings. Whenever you visit you won’t leave disappointed – guided tours and smell, strength and texture. tutored tastings at Aberdeenshire’s For those looking for something off world-famous distilleries are a real way 48 the tourist track “The Secret Malts to experience this part of Scotland. take your breath away Aberdeen &Aberdeenshire’s golfcourses will Panoramic and the elemental views power of views for miles views fresh air with the crisp, clear Venture outin air and the panoramic views, and the air andthepanoramicviews, skies are vast,thelightclear andthefresh James BraidandDrMartinHawtree. The golf architecture, suchasOldTom Morris, links courses,designedbytopnamesin are someoftheworld’s mostchallenging feet high.Inthisextraordinary sandscape coast –someofthemsaidtotower100 Great dunesstretch alongAberdeenshire’s Aberdeenshire. in theworldcanbefoundAberdeen & – andtwoofthetoptenoldestcourses golf andforitsspectacularcourses Scotland isfamousasthebirthplaceof discovered bywalkersandcyclists.Be endless countrysidejustwaitingtobe such swayinAberdonians’ hearts–and Lochnagar, orBennachie,thatholds There are legendstobescaled– sands. Or stridingoutalongthewideexpansive 3,000 feethigh).Hoppingontoaskilift. forests. BaggingMunros (amountainover and heatherymoors…Exploringancient with viewsformilesacross great estates feel whenyou’re outinthecrispfresh air, & Aberdeenshire, imaginehowyouwill If RoyalsgettobethemselvesinAberdeen For more information ofAberdeen and surrounding about the city area ofAberdeenshire go to www.visitabdn.com splendid settings suitable for golfers of all splendid settingssuitableforgolfersofall are dozensofparklandcourses in Inland, inthecityandvastcountryside, Aberdeen washosttothe ScottishOpen. competitions.In2014,Royal international courses havebeencreated tohosttop Aberdeen &Aberdeenshire’s famousgolf and bestknown,intheworld.Manyof courses are someofthemostscenic, architects, thethree championshipgolf Designed toperfectionbyrenowned golfer’s breath away. elemental powerofthecoursescantakea favourite with local people and visitors favourite withlocalpeopleandvisitors it’s nosurprisethatwatersportsare a coastlines” aswellacity-centre beach, With “oneoftheworld’s outstanding Aberdeen’s dry-skislope. 2090. Andnotfarfrom thecitycentre lies with twoskiresorts, GlensheeandLecht popular spotforwintersportsenthusiasts, NationalPark,isa meets theCairngorms Royal Deeside,where Aberdeenshire mountainous andcoastalviews. you choose,won’t missremarkable forests, orsandydunes–nomatterwhich stirred bytheDeesideWay, takeonhilly from through earlymorning tolateevening. find theycanplaytotheirhearts’content almost endless:fortunateforgolfers,who Indeed, summerdaysthisfarnorthare longest. bookers duringthemonthswhendaysare but isnowopentofortunatecorporate usually reserved fortheroyals andstaff, Queen’s summerretreat atBalmoral–it’s a nine-holecourseinthegrounds ofthe NationalPark.Nearbythere’sCairngorms Deeside, where Aberdeenshire meetsthe at Braemar, intheupperreaches ofRoyal abilities. TheUK’s highestgolfcourseis pub. one ofBrewDog’s craftbeersinachiccity pleasures ofadrambyroaring fire –or and elementalnature. Thenthewarming reward. First,abracingdiveintoraw fresher, and winterdaysbringtheirown This partofScotlandiscolder, drier, and round inAberdeen andAberdeenshire. People are gettingoutandactiveallyear sports too. the optionfornovicestotrysomeofthese glide upthecentralriver. Ofcoursethere is take onthewaves,orenjoyseeingrowers alike. Watch thesurfers,diversandsailors Cruden Bay GolfClub,Aberdeenshire 49 AB GOLF AND OUTDOOR ADVENTURE DN VisitAberdeenshire GOLF AND OUTDOOR ADVENTURE EASTERN AIRWAYS A SUPERIOR MODEL

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– Up to 4 daily departures*† – Same day return journeys* – Complimentary on board drinks & snacks – Express check-in service – Fast track security channel* – Executive airport lounges* easternairways.com why fl y any other way?

* At selected airports † Except Saturdays

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