Valley News

Reg. Charity No. 1090218

The magnificent cake made for our ten year celebrations by Elizabeth Cleare The Friends of £1

Summer 2007 Issue No: 32

Any article which appears in this newsletter is not necessarily the policy of The Friends of Luxulyan Valley Page 2 Luxulyan Valley News

From the Editors

Dear Friends.

In this issue, you will find reports of our ten Year celebrations as well as other events that we have held since the last newsletter. The celebration was a very happy event. We have several other events planned throughout the summer including the ever popular Ride with Roger . If you haven’t ever ridden in a break van I can recommend the experience. It is a very en- The Luxulyan Valley- joyable evening and pasties can be bought from the station if ordered in ad- part of the Cornish Mining vance. But HURRY, bookings close on 29 June . Other planned activities World Heritage Site are listed below and we look forward to seeing as many of you as possible at these events.

Ten years Putting on my other hat as membership secretary, I can tell you that our 3 membership has never been so healthy, we have over 200 members includ- ing some Cornish exiles and regular visitors to this beautiful part of this FOLV sec’s 4 world. However, there are still a few members who haven’t yet renewed this year. I have enclosed a personal letter to them and I do look forward to hearing from you. A personal per- 5 We are still awaiting news about the transfer of Trethevey wood to the spective Friends but this should happen in the near future—watch this space!!

From the 6 The Eds

COMING SOON! August Farm 6 Visit This summer ‘The Friends of Luxulyan Valley’ will be publishing FOUR NEW COLOUR POSTCARDS of scenes in the Luxulyan Valley. They will be avail- Prideaux 7 able for sale at any of our ‘Events’, or contact Chris Tigg for further details Woods if you would like copies posted to you. Cornish Steam 8 Rangers Report 10 Dates for your Diary. For more details see page 18 Alpacas and Big 12 Rock Friday 6 July 2007—7.00pm, Ride with Roger, Special Photo 15 Meet General Railway Station. Tickets £12.50 each. Booking Essential by 29 June Tel: 01726 850072 Offer Moths in the 17 Sunday 22 July 2007 - 10.00 am, Wildflower Walk. Meet Black Hill Car Park. Map Ref: SX059 573 Valley

Future events 18 Sunday 12 August 2007 - 2.30 pm, Community Turbine. Meet Ponts Mill Car Park. Map Ref: SX072 562

Please note: Friday 24 August 2007 - 8.00 pm, Bats. Deadline for articles Meet Ponts Mill Car Park. Map Ref: SX072 562

for the next issue is: Saturday 29 September 2007—10.00 am Clay Country Tour with 30 August Ivor Bowditch of Imerys. Refreshments will be available. please send to Booking essential by 14 September Tel: 01726 850072 Maggie: Free to members, £3.00 for non-members [email protected] Meet: Wheal Martyn China Clay Country Park, Map Ref: SX 005 554 Issue No.32 Page 3

10 Years Strong On the 17th March, ‘The Friends’ held a day of ing place at Maggie’s and Pauline’s houses in a celebration to mark our 10th Birthday. Given desperate attempt to prepare all the food for ’s, and to some extent the Luxulyan Val- the coming evening’s meal. ley’s long history, it seems appropriate that this Just after 5.00pm we had begun dismantled the coincidentally would also be our ‘Tin’ Anniversary! displays before laying out more tables and chairs The day started with much activity at the Village ready to seat upwards of 80 ‘Friends’ and guests for our evening function. By the skin of our teeth we were ready for 7.00pm and with every- one in good spirits and mouths’ watering it was soon time to ‘tuck in’ to the mountain of beauti- fully prepared food.

During the evening we were entertained by the ‘Bootleg Blues Band’ consisting of Mike Hawkey on keyboards, Mo on guitar and vocals, and Bob on guitar. The volume may not have been to everyone’s taste, for which I am sorry, but they proved a great success. A few short speeches about the first 10 years of ‘The Friends’ were made by Ed, Roger, Mike Hawkey and Gerry Members and the public visiting the exhibition Brain, and then a rather long raffle drawing ses- photo by Chris Tigg sion because the huge number of prizes we had been gifted throughout the day. Hall to arrange tables, erect stands and mount dis- plays ready for the afternoon’s exhibition. A steady By the time we had cleared up the hall it was flow of exhibitors fortunately led to an orderly approaching midnight and the end of a long tir- arrangement of material and everyone seemed ing, but thoroughly rewarding, day. I must give a happy with their space allocation. By lunchtime we big vote of thanks to everyone on the commit- were all set; signs out on the street, a broadcast tee for all their fantastic efforts throughout the had been made on Radio Cornwall and people day, but in particular Maggie and Stephen for were starting to turn up to see this free exhibition. putting in so much work leading up to the day’s Raffle Prizes that had been donated were laid out event. Special and raffle tickets were being sold. An encouraging thanks must start I thought, but still fearful that after so much go to Betty effort by so many people, few would come. How Hunter and wrong was I!! Susie Rayner who spent all All afternoon saw a continuous stream of visitors afternoon taking a keen interest in all the displays. A lot of and evening the exhibits focused on the Luxulyan Valley’s his- in the kitchen tory, but with contributions about otters, the serving teas to Par rail line, the China Clay industry, Betty and Susie hard at work in the kitchen and helping photo by Chris Tigg Parish censors, Family and Local Parish History, with the food there was a plethora of information to absorb, and preparation. The crowning glory on the food hopefully something for everyone. With additional tables was the magnificent double cake made tables and chairs put to one side it was also possi- especially for us by Elizabeth Cleare, thanks ble to have a free ‘cuppa’, biscuit and a natter. again to you all.

Whilst all this was going on, a huge effort was tak- continued/ Page 4 Luxulyan Valley News

10 Years Strong—continued There were so many FOLVSec’s Soliloquy people that freely gave It falls to me as the longest-serving committee up their spare time to member to say the proverbial Few Words about help out, and so many the first ten years of The Friends of Luxulyan Val- that provided raffle ley, as seen from my point of view. I was there, prizes that it is impossi- folks, at some of the earliest meetings. It started ble to thank you all in- out as around a dozen or so “concerned individu- dividually. als” having indignation meetings about What Was There were many peo- Happening In Our Valley and How Could We ple involved in the Have Our Say. And if so, what was our say going creation of all the indi- to be…

vidual displays and their We Luxulyanites have done this protest thing be- Celebration Cake time in answering the photo by Chris Tigg fore, haven’t we. Before I came to live amongst public’s questions was you, I recall the mega protest about the proposed very much appreciated. Ultimately your efforts ‘Nucular’ Power Station cooling waters which made for a very successful exhibition.

Our thanks go to all those involved from the fol- lowing organisations and individuals:

Bodmin & Wenford Railway China Clay History Society Clive Swannell Cornwall County Council Cornwall Heritage Trust Cornwall Wildlife Trust Friends of the Atlantic Coastline Cornish Mining World Heritage Team Luxulyan Family History Group Luxulyan Old Cornwall Society Luxulyan Parish Council Members and friends enjoying the evening meal Ponts Mill Community Turbine photo by Chris Tigg Borough Council/Serco were to go down the Valley, presumably to Tony Woods at the Cornwall Association of Lo- cause the river to glow gently green in the cal Historians dark—making a change from flowing white in the & Par Parish Council day courtesy of a certain China Clay company’s ‘The Friends’ never set out to make a profit out spillages! Result? No power station. of the day’s events, but just wanted to give some- thing back to a community that has supported us Yes, after the Valley was taken over by Cornwall over the last ten years. However, because of eve- County Council and Restormel, workmen were ryone’s generosity we ended up making a small seen clearing paths and managing the woodland, profit, which in consultation with Betty and Susie and people started to worry. What next? A and in recognition of their efforts throughout the Theme Park, possibly to be called a Countryside day, was donated to the Luxulyan Church to help Recreational Amenity Park (work out the acro- with its funding. nym for yourselves) with car parking, coach par- ties, a Visitor Experience Centre of Excellence, It’s very rewarding to know that Community cafes, and Entrance Fees and probably a Dog Spirit is alive and kicking in Luxulyan. Ban? Takeover by an organisation currently de-

Chris Tigg (Chairman) veloping an abandoned clay pit nearby? continued/ Issue No.32 Page 5

So, The Friends of Luxulyan Valley was formed, it be nice to feed it directly into our homes?) and yours truly succumbed to requests to be the the revenue will help to maintain the leats; the Secretary, and I’ve been there ever since. I have week after next there’s a steam train to Newquay; served under three Chairs (which phrase, though and with the help and support of all of you, mem- very PC, makes me feel like a carpet), namely Ed bers of The Friends of Luxulyan Valley, we can keep Harradence, Elaine Higman and currently Chris the Valley a hidden gem of a place to be found only Tigg; and we’ve gone from strength to strength. by those diligent and caring enough to search it out Places for us were allowed on the Valley Steering and treasure it. Group (now the Valley Management Partnership) Roger James for us to have our say on the future of the Val- folvsec 16 March 2007 ley.

We became a registered Charity, which has some advantages for fund-raising despite a lot of Ten years of Friends of the Valley bureaucracy and paperwork. We commissioned a book of walks in the Valley (still in print, get - A personal perspective your copy now from Ed Harradence); with the Anniversary celebrations always make one look help of Paul Mason, the valley ranger, we organ- back. Ten years of FoLV – 1996: then I didn’t ised some volunteer working parties to clear know the Luxulyan Valley even existed although weeds, and some Open Days in the Bluebell Sea- my brother, Stephen Austin did. As he is a railway son with guided walks, various craft stalls and historian (and now FoLV’s Archivist), he knows all refreshments. Then funds were raised for the sorts of interesting things. We had decided to purchase of Wood which will complete move from the depths of Surrey to the damp the saving of the whole Valley for everyone’s en- green of Cornwall at the end of the last century. joyment. We take part in Otter Surveys, finding In order to achieve this ambition, Steve and I came evidence of their presence. The activities center- to the St. Austell area in September 1998 and pro- ing around the Valley, birdsong, moths, bats, ar- ceeded to visit estate agents and view desirable chaeology, trees, and the tenuous link with Tref- properties. Despite all that is said of estate agents, fry’s Port of Par, Alfred the locomotive, the an- one deserves some free publicity: while driving us nual brakevan ride at Bodmin, are well sup- “to view” in the Luxulyan area, Mark Lewis learned ported. I had never seen either the Valley or the Viaduct,

That’s not all. In the last year, two important places he had loved all his life, and so he took it events have happened which will bring the Valley upon himself to drive us the long way round to the notice not just of the County of Cornwall through the Valley and kept saying “Can you see it , but the whole World. Firstly, the Luxulyan Val- yet?”. And, suddenly, I could. It soared out of the ley has been included in the successful bid by the trees – it was love at first sight.

Cornish Mining area for World Heritage Site Steve and I bought a house in St. Blazey (I wish I status and this should help protect it and sur- could say it was one of Mark’s but it wasn’t) and rounding areas from inappropriate development we moved down in mid February, 1999. Ex- and bring it to the attention of more people hausted after all that was not mentioned in the around the World. Secondly, thanks to the inde- preceding sentence, we turned our backs on all fatigable efforts of Ed Harradence, the Turbine at the boxes and headed for the Valley so I could Ponts Mill has been rescued from decay and is on walk on the Viaduct. We parked our car, got out the brink of generating electricity from renew- and I saw a notice about the Friends of Luxulyan able resources. Sometimes sparks flew when Ed Valley. I said to Steve “Look – we must join this” was Chairman; now the sparks will be electrical and we did. So although we were not in at FoLV’s at 50 cycles/second… beginning, FoLV was in at ours – the first thing we

So, what of the next ten years? The transfer of did on coming to live here.

Trethevy Wood should happen ‘dreckly’; the © Janet E. Price Turbine will feed ’lectric into the Grid (wouldn’t 17 March, 2007. Page 6 Luxulyan Valley News

From the Archive August Farm Visit

(This is not about the Valley, but I thought you might The alpacas of like it anyway.) Middle Greadow Farm It is from the Gazette of the Cyclists’ Touring invite FoLV Club, for April 1939 members, fam- “ is a pleasant name, and the place ily and friends itself has a lovely appearance when seen from to come and afar – most especially from the Great Western join with visi- tors from the Railway. As the train speeds through, one Photo by Janet Price photo by Janet Price glimpses little houses in the deep valley, and the West Cornwall loveliest of church spires. There is a romantic- Camelid Association (WiCCA) in entertaining looking hilltop above the town, with a pictur- them on Sunday 5 August, 2007, any time after esque ruined fortress. That is Restormel Castle 11.00 am and until about 6.30 pm. As most - a name as romantic as the place itself appears FoLV members now know, the farm is situated to be, but more sturdy and masculine than between the villages of Luxulyan and , “Lostwithiel”. The people there affect to be- both of which has an excellent pub, but feel free lieve that the name is “Lost-within-the-Hill,” but to bring a picnic – the alpacas would enjoy the place-name is really “Restwithiel,” while watching people eating. We might be able to “Restormel” is properly “Lestormel” - or so it is manage a ‘cuppa’ (we’ll show you where the said. There is not much of Lostwithiel. It is a kitchen is) and maybe even a ‘bikkie’’ You may town of only some two thousand inhabitants, admire our picture display and we have a few and most of its houses are commonplace. But bits and pieces for sale, all connected with our the unusual stone church-spire, a beautiful work interests in teddy bears, model railways and what of the fourteenth century, is worth notice. It can be done with alpaca fleece (as well as keep- has indeed been noticed by architects to a very ing it in the barn/garage). There will be a Special great degree, for we may easily trace to it the Guest Appearance as two llamas from Llamalland inspiration for the spires of many a Wesleyan will be joining us for the day. and Congregational chapel. There is but one As Luxulyan Valley has recently become a World other object here that will intrigue you. It is an Heritage Site and is both beautiful and interest- inscription on an otherwise uninteresting house, ing, the visitors from WiCCA have been invited the record of one of the longest leases surely to go on a guided tour. FoLV Archivist, railway ever granted, and reads: “Walter Kendal, of historian Stephen Austin, will take out a group Lostwithiel, was founder of this house in 1638. for about an hour (longer if required) from 2.30 Hath a lease for three thousand years, which pm and show off the fabulous aque/viaduct, the beginning the 20th of September, Anno, 1632.” Carmears Wheel, the Incline and other fascinat- This may be found at the corner of North Street ing places. You MUST book this as Stephen of Taprell’s Lane” needs to know numbers (in case anyone falls in

That was the only mention of Cornwall in the the river). The tour will be free to all and the CTC Gazette in 1938 and 1939; it appears that WiCCA group have been told this but that dona- body had no existence west of the Tamar - al- tions to FoLV will be very welcome. though my parents toured Cornwall on their For all queries and more information telephone tandem at that time. You’ll notice that the train the farm on 01208 872282. We have an answer did not stop at Lostwithiel (or Par either for phone so, if you leave your number (clearly), we that matter). Some things don’t change. will call back.

Stephen Austen © Janet E. Price May, 2007. Issue No.32 Page 7

Prideaux Woods What a difference a week makes! For this was exactly the gap from our wet, but nonetheless enjoyable, early morning Bird Song event; to what was a beautiful sunny afternoon’s walk exploring Prideaux Woods, a Nature Reserve, owned by Cornwall Wildlife Trust (CWT).

Our guide, Sean O’Hea from CWT, explained that the Reserve was purchased in 1997 by Cornwall Wildlife Trust with a grant from the Heritage Lottery Fund. A great deal of the area Members listening to Sean photo by Chris Tigg has been exploited by man over many genera- once again. Birch trees, considered a pioneer tions, from Oak coppicing and charcoal burning species, are also now growing and it is hoped to the huge amount of 19th Century mining that in twenty or so years Oak trees will once exploration. In fact there are some 76 mine- again establish themselves. In other areas the shafts and 3 adits, along with other mining ac- conifers had been thinned out allowing dappled tivity remains on the 64 acre site. light through. Here a carpet a ferns was now

Several tracks cross the reserve and these are thriving along with bluebells and other low identified by a wire fence on both sides and plants. All this had give rise to an increase in even a double one in places to protect the un- the wildlife that now inhabits the woodland wary visitor from falling down a mineshaft. floor.

Unlike the Luxulyan Valley about three quar- Throughout our walk Sean explained the vari- ters of this area was planted as recently as the ous sites we came across, and in particular per- 1960’s with a dense commercial network of haps the main reason why CWT were so keen coniferous trees. Over the last few decades to acquire this land. Within one of the adits and the derelict mineshafts is a large colony of roosting greater horseshoe bats. In fact one of only 14 known breeding sites in the country. These protected mammals are not common, and so any clearance of the dominant conifers in the area has to be undertaken only in the autumn to minimise any disruption and distur- bance to these bats.

Many thanks must go to Sean for giving up his Sunday afternoon to show us this delightful woodland, adjacent to the Luxulyan Valley and yet so different. I for one had so often passed it View of Prideaux Woods photo by Chris Tigg by, but will now give it the due interest it so this has had the impact of cutting out all light richly deserves. There is free public access all reaching the ground, and so all other vegeta- year round, but if you are going to visit tion under this dense canopy has completely Prideaux Woods please stick to the designated died off. However, the Trust’s ongoing manage- paths and take care not to disturb the bats! For ment plan is to gradually remove these domi- more information about Cornwall Wildlife nant conifers and so allow space for native Trust please visit their web site at: broad leaf deciduous trees and flowers to es- www.cornwallwildlifetrust.org.uk tablish. Where ‘Rides’, or clearings, have been made there are brambles and wild flowers Chris Tigg Page 8 Luxulyan Valley News

Truro, to St Ives and Penzance to Par. Cornish Steam On Monday morning the train went up The last empty to Plymouth. They left one of the week of diesels behind at , but during the March saw morning someone started it up. All I can the long- say is, had I made that amount of smoke promised when lighting up a steam locomotive appearance twenty years ago, ‘something would have of a partially been said’. steam-hauled train on the In the afternoon they returned to Par, Cornwall with 45407 leading, and went round the main line and curve to St Blazey where they stopped. some of the Then they reversed through the depot and branches. along the vestige of the original Cornwall Partially, be- Minerals Railway line into the Port of Par. cause no This entailed opening up the little-used Par lines in Corn- Bridge level crossing. Having crossed they wall (except waited a short time while the gateman let the Bodmin through all the motorists who just had to Climbing up towards the viaduct—Chris Tigg & Wenford choose that exact time to drive along that Railway) have bit of road, then shunted back again. That that basic provision, the run-round loop, was the first scheduled passenger train to so all the runs had to be made with a run over the crossing since about the end locomotive on each end of the train. of 1934, and the first movement of One of those was steam, the other a coaches on the port siding since 13th Oc- vintage diesel-electric locomotive. tober 2004.

When running, the one at the back is All I can say After all that fun, they waited for the usually merely idling and part of the is, had I Newquay railcar to appear, then returned made that lead, although it can give some assis- to Par station to pick up passengers fore a amount of tance if needed. run to Newquay. They decided to attempt smoke when The steam locomotive was Ian Riley’s the run without the diesel engine on the lighting up a Class 5 No. 45407, built by Sir W G back, which as anyone from round here steam Armstrong Whitworth & Co in Septem- could have told them was a very silly thing locomotive to do. The load limit for that class of loco- twenty years ber 1937, named ‘The Lancashire Fusilier’ ago, by her present owners – Riley & Sons motive from Par to Luxulyan is 190 tons, ‘something (Electromec) Ltd, a long established en- would have gineering firm in Lancashire. EWSR pro- been said’. vided two diesel locos, in case one broke down (they are forty years old after all), No’s 37406 and 37410.

45407 came down to St Blazey on Thursday 22nd March; the two diesels with the special seven coaches arrived the following day. On Sunday 25th they visited Falmouth, Penzance and St Ives, with the steam loco on the east end, so that she hauled from Falmouth to Photo by Stephen Austin Issue No.32 Page 9

Cornish Steam—continued

and the train must have been at least 250 tons, so the inevitable happened. After passing St Blazey Bridge the driver eased the engine down, and on striking the in- cline he thought better of the whole idea, stopped at Ponts Mill Viaduct and called for the diesel to be brought up behind. That sorted out, they continued to Newquay and back with no further prob- lems. Return through the Valley by Stephen Austin

On Tuesday 27th they made two trips from Plymouth North Road to Bere Saturday Trains 2007 Alston and Plymouth Friary. On Wednes- day they made two excursions down Those who are amused by the spectacle here from Plymouth; the morning run of a 125mph High Speed Train winding took the branch from Lostwithiel through the Valley and taking an hour to If they can to Carne Point and the afternoon run cover the twenty miles to Newquay will do it in the covered the remnant of the St Dennis be pleased to see that they are doing it Highlands branch from Burngullow to Parkandillack again this year. of Scotland, clay works. On Thursday they headed they can do back east, making a visit to the South On summer Saturdays there are six it in Devon Railway (formally known as the trains: three from/to Paddington, one Cornwall. Ashburton branch) on the way. from Plymouth to Newcastle, one from/ to Manchester and one from Newcastle Various members of ‘The Friends of Lux- to Plymouth. On the first day we noted ulyan Valley’ were seen at various places, that Virgin were using one of their own hiding in the bushes or mingling with the ‘Voyagers' and two hired-in HST sets, still hordes of emmets, earnest photogra- in Midland mainline colours. First Group phers and bemused locals. are having their power cars refurbished The operation has made 45407 equal and now have at least one re-engined car with ‘Olton Hall’ as the most-travelled lo- on each set, so they should cope better comotives within Britain, because of her with the exigencies of the Newquay road. unusual arena of late has been the Fort The new engines are from a German firm William – Mallaig line. called MTU and are distinguished by the absence of the characteristic whistle of The whole week was a great success. the old Paxman Valenta. Even the weather cooperated! The delay on the Newquay run was merely a failure On summer Sundays there are a Virgin on someone’s part to read the instruc- train from Plymouth to Edinburgh and a tions and has nothing to do with the First Group Paddington train.

technical practicality of running steam- Goonbarrow Junction signal box, which hauled excursions on this line. If they can on weekdays has to be opened only do it in the Highlands of Scotland, they when there is a clay train, is required for can do it in Cornwall. crossings all day on Saturdays and Sun-

S H Austin, 28th March 2007 days. Stephen Austin Page 10 Luxulyan Valley News

Rangers Report June 2007

Well, it’s that time of year again, the woodland floor is essential to our when thousands of colourful flow- native ground flora, and therefore ering plants are crammed together non-native evergreen shrubs that ex- in magnificent displays, filling ones clude light, such as rhododendron eyes with colour, and the air with a and cherry laurel, can pose a serious fragrance that would turn Channel threat, not only to their future, but green with envy. No, not the Chel- also to the future of any insects and sea Flower Show, but the Cornish birds that are associated with them. Hedgerow Flower Show. An an- In this case management is essential. nual tonic that never fails to please, Rhododendron and cherry laurel has and is free at point of entry. to be cut down and, in some areas, removed altogether to stop it spread- Our part in the big event is to pro- ing and arresting the growth of native vide a range of woodland wild wild flowers. flowers, with a finale of purple haze, provided by a deep-pile blue- Other plants survive because trees bell carpet. However, unlike at fall over or die, thus allowing sunlight Chelsea, where plants are kept to reach the woodland floor for a cool, or warmed up, so that they period of years, until the canopy re- Our part in the big peak at the right time. The timing grows. Foxglove is one such plant event is to provide a of our display can be somewhat hit that will respond to increased light range of woodland and miss, depending, as it does, on levels or recently disturbed ground. wild flowers, with a unpredictableThis story can fit 100-150 weather patterns. The seeds can remain dormant in the finale of purple haze, Butwords. then why should we expect ground for tens, even hundreds of natureThe subject to matterconform that appears to our calendar! provided by a deep- in newsletters is virtually end- years, until the ideal environmental pile bluebell carpet. less. You can include stories conditions arise, whereupon they will Whilethat focus these on current flowers technolo- are wild and germinate and flourish for as long as natural,gies or innovations with ain your direct field. genetic link the conditions remain. When the thatYou may spans also want thousands to note of years, a business or economic trends, sunlight becomes excluded, or other certainor make predictions amount for your of countryside plants that are more suited to the managementcustomers or clients. is required to main- changing conditions colonise the bare tainIf the thenewsletter status is distributed quo and ensure fu- ground, the foxglove seeds will lie tureinternally, flower you might shows. comment Our native upon new procedures or im- dormant, waiting patiently, or per- woodlandprovements to groundthe business. flora is intrinsi- haps restlessly, for their moment. cally linked with the higher, climax, vegetation, which in our case is A mature tree, up-rooted in a winter oak, beech or mixed broadleaf storm, will provide the ideal condi- trees. These are of course decidu- tions by both disturbing the ground, ous trees, losing their leaves in the and allowing sunlight to penetrate to autumn and re-growing them in ground level. Foxgloves will flourish the spring. This gives the ground upon the up-turned root plate and flora a window of opportunity to disturbed ground beneath as long as grow, flower and set seed, before conditions allow. the canopy of leaves is fully formed and the dimmer switch is turned It doesn’t have to be a natural phe- down in the woodland as a whole. nomenon that creates these condi-

This seasonal light penetration to tions and one of the best displays of Issue No.32 Page 11 wild flowers in the valley this year was the result When he hopped out of the van, he said, “Well of man-made disturbance, namely the railway em- Paul, you must be doing something right.” bankment works that took place last year adja- I replied that perhaps I wasn’t working them cent to the lower tramway. This section of em- hard enough! bankment has experienced a considerable amount of disturbance over the past few years, from tree cutting, fencing, and a number of embankment Ponts Mill repairs. The result being a floral display that would otherwise have not happened. Visitors to the Ponts Mill end of the valley will also have noticed some changes around the ac- The management of invasive species, the mainte- cess area. Over the past few weeks Duchy col- nance of rides and the creation of glades within lege students and BTCV volunteers have been the woodland, and the rotational coppicing of putting in new gate posts and clearing vegeta- suitable species, all help to maintain the bio- tion. This project should be finished in the next diversity of the Luxulyan Valley, just as the regu- few weeks (depending on the student’s timeta- lar cutting of hedge rows ensures a flower show ble) and the end result should be as follows. that would easily take gold at Chelsea. The gate which is currently underneath the Par to Newquay railway viaduct will be moved down Recent Events towards the car park, and placed just above the junction to the turbine house. An additional bri- Regular visitors to Blackhill car park will have no- ticed that the steps to the lower (Fowey Con- dal gate will be place next to it, with a style on sols) leat, and the area around the notice board, the other side. Vegetation has been cleared have received recent management. The old steps from in front of the bridge under the Incline have been removed and new ones built, while the (previously hidden), and new fencing has been eroded area around the notice board has been erected on the turbine side of the tunnel. The topped with stone and log edged. resulting layout will mean that the public will be able to walk under the bridge and on to the In- This work was completed by members of a cline, without having to climb the steps and style BTCV ‘Working Holiday’ during their week long that currently link the Incline with the lower visit to the valley at the end of April. The group, tramway. that numbered ten, ranged in ages from an eight- een year old ‘A’ level student to, at least two, oc- It should also reduce the number of vehicles togenarians, had travelled from all parts of the driving along that part of the tramway and fly country, and abroad (Spain and Germany), to tipping near the viaduct, which is an occasional spend their holiday carrying out conservation occurrence. In addition, we are hoping to im- work. prove the surface of the tramway in this area, making it more suitable for wheelchair users, I am really pleased with the results, which should though this will depend upon there being last quite a few years before needing any signifi- enough money in the budget. cant maintenance. The group seemed to get on well together (they live in self-catering chalets for Paul Mason, Luxulyan Valley Ranger the week), and it was well organised by the BTCV supervisors. It was pleasing too to see some fa- miliar faces. Two of the ten were on their second visit (travelling from Berkshire and Shropshire), one was on his third visit from Kent, while Les, who I think was eighty-nine years of age (!), was on his fourth visit. In fact, I think he was on the group that built the viaduct! Page 12 Luxulyan Valley News

therefore well used to a sparse diet, but on the A is for Alpaca, B is for Big Rock lush grass provided here they thrive. April turned out to be a record breaking month Janet and Nigel made us most welcome and for warm sunny days so it was somewhat disap- their time in answering our questions and pro- pointing that on the 15th, the day we chose for viding leaflets was very much appreciated. If you this little jaunt, turned out to be the only foggy want to find out more about ‘Nigel’s Alpacas’ or day of the month! Oh well, can’t win them all at arrange a visit please call them on (01208) least it was dry and mild. 872282. Our thanks must also go to Luke for his An excellent turn out of some 40 ‘Friends’ and informative input, Hedley Whell for kindly giving guests gathered outside Luxulyan School for the us permission to visit ‘Big Rock’ and to Martin gentle walk to Lower Greadow Farm. However Whell for giving us a small insight into farming it is not until you have to walk up the hill from life. Gatty’s that you realise it is not so gentle! But Chris Tigg upon arrival we were met by Martin Whell, and once everyone had gathered their breath, Luke Notes about the walk to Big Martin guided us through the farmyard and across the last few hundred yards to see what is Rock from Luke reputedly Europe’s largest free standing boulder. Despite Measuring some 750 tons in weight, dimensions a misty of 49 x 27 feet, and with its girth at its widest is a n d 72 feet it is said that about 100 people could over- shelter beneath it! c a s t

Now surrounded by mature trees and lush vege- start to tation, it is difficult to believe that some 100 the day, years ago this stone at one time stood out from a large the industrial landscape of the Luxulyan Valley g r o u p below. Luke then enlightened us all on the geol- o f friends ogy of the area and explained how such large Luke explains the geology of the rock pieces of individual granite were formed. a n d -Photo by Chris Tigg gues ts With the misty weather still prevailing we were ventured out to see 'Big Rock' and Nigel's Al- unable to appreciate the wonderful views that pacas. can be had from the surrounding, but after a gentle walk back to Lower Greadow Farm we The group walked to Lower Greadow Farm were then entertained by the Alpacas owned by along the road, passing between the granite Nigel Hicklin and Janet Price. Now prized for abutments that once formed the tramway bridge their superb, soft, silky fleece they are easy to to Cairns Quarry. look after, pretty cute and utterly adorable. Built around 1855, the tramway that this bridge Smaller than their cousins the Llama, they are carried joined up with the Colcerrow branch very social and the . Despite popular belief, animals and Cairns Quarry was extensively worked until so best about 1869, at which point the stone produced kept in a became less desirable because of its colour. Al- herd. They though less extensive working continued until originate about 1880, the quarry was sporadically re- from high opened in 1931 and during the 1940's. in the S o u t h The granite around Luxulyan is described as be- American ing coarsely megacrystic - meaning that it con- tains some very big crystals! It is made up mainly Nigel’s Alpacas -Photo by Chris Andes and Issue No.32 Page 13

1,200-1,500 metric tons. of quartz, Although 'Big Rock' was not quarried, its sheer feldspar, mi- size is a result of the same thing that the skilful cas and tour- quarrymen exploited, namely jointing. Joints are maline. The planes of weakness through the rock formed af- feldspar ter the mass of granite had been emplaced and megacrysts was cooling down and solidifying. The orientation (between 20- and spacing of joint planes depends upon the rela- 150mm in tive sizes and directions of the forces and confin- size) are of- ing pressures acting on the granite body. ten aligned in Photo by Janet Price Throughout the granite around Luxulyan, three a similar di- main systems of joints can be found in the rock. rection and show signs that they continued The vertical joints running east-north-east to growing for a long period of time after the gran- west-south-west were found to be less conducive ite was emplaced. Geologists have measured to quarrying than those that run north-north- the age of the rock to be about 285 million west to south-south-east. The quarrymen de- years before present, meaning that it is the old- scribed them as the 'tough'- and 'cleaving'- way, est part of the (Hensbarrow) intru- respectively. The final set of joints lie perpendicu- sion. The sequence of events following its initial lar to the other two sets and often forms the emplacement are directly responsible for turn- 'floor' in granite quarries. The forces that gave ing the Luxulyan granite into such a prized rise to the jointing around Luxulyan allowed joint building material. sets with a wide spacing to be established. Thus, On arriving at Lower Greadow Farm, the group many millions of years later, after the surrounding met Martin Whell, who runs this large dairy rock had been weathered and eroded away, large farm along with his family. Martin told the group blocks or so-called 'core stones' of granite still that he had always been taught that 'Big Rock' remain. Some of these 'core stones' show weath- was the second largest free-standing stone in ering features that over time gave rise to the for- Europe, although nobody knows where the larg- mation of tors. Just beside 'Big Rock', there is an- est one is! In fact, references made to 'Big Rock' other weathered granite outcrop that shows in 1892 suggested that it probably was the larg- some signs of becoming a tor. est block in Europe. Nowadays, it is safest to Whilst on the subject of large blocks of granite, it say that it is one of the largest free-standing is interesting to note the 's impres- stones in Europe! 'Big Rock' is also known by sive boast of moving 'the largest block since the name 'Pennyloaf', on account of its shape. Stonehenge was built' in their effort to create a Although 'Big Rock' is slightly obscured by vege- 'seed' sculpture for their Core Education Centre. tation nowadays, it is still an impressive sight, A 300-400 ton block of granite was blasted 6 tenuously overhanging with no support beneath inches into the air and freed from the face of De much of its bulk. Lank Quarry using gunpowder back in November 2004. From this block, a 167 ton piece was There have been a wide variety of estimates on moved using a specialist crane (delivered in pieces the mass of 'Big Rock', ranging from a few hun- by 30 separate lorries) and transporter to a dred tons to 1,700 tons. Although one might working area so that the sculptor could 'whittle' think it a relatively straight forward task to cal- this down to a 60-odd ton 'nut' that should be culate the mass of a block, it isn't! Problems installed by the time this article goes to press. In with calculating the exact mass of 'Big Rock' are the early 1900's, gunpowder was used to 'move' a primarily due to it not being a uniform/regular few 2000+ ton blocks a few feet from the faces of shape, nor easily accessible to make accurate various Cornish quarries (including ). measurements from different positions. On the Somehow, I don't think the Health and Safety basis of some recent measurements, the best People would allow that these days! estimate for the total mass of 'Big Rock' is Luke Martin Page 14 Luxulyan Valley News

The Friends of Luxulyan Meet the Alpacas

As many of you know, The Friends of Luxulyan Valley arrange regular events throughout the year – indoors in winter. One of the outdoor events is a walk to visit ‘Big Rock’, reputedly the largest free standing boulder in Europe. It is on private land, in the midst of a dairy farm, so per- mission is needed to go there. This year it was felt that, after inspecting a hard lump of granite, Alpacas– photo by Chris Tigg a visit to some fluffy alpacas would round the alpacas: they like having their pictures taken and morning off nicely. The weather was superb – you wouldn’t want to disappoint them now clear blue skies, warm sun: right up to that Sun- would you. I have no idea what they think we day morning when we had thick mist and nearly are doing but some of them will pose for you. rain. I don’t know how the Rock looked but the Really. alpacas were definitely soggy. Of course their soft, silky fleece keeps the animal inside dry and While Nigel showed off the herd, I answered comfortable so they couldn’t understand why questions in our small display area and gave out we were copies of my information sheet and samples complain- from the sacks of raw fleece I’d put out for peo- ing. The ple to feel. I’d arranged a basket with alpaca, atmos- llama and sheep fleece so people could feel the phere was difference: sheep wool is full of lanolin whereas so damp alpaca and llama fleece (which is hair) are very that, al- dry and much softer. With pride, I showed off tho ugh two new arrivals – a pair of Teddy Bears made u n d e r entirely from our own alpaca fibre. Elaine Ree- cover, the man has written a delightful story of how this Friends & Alpacas photo by Janet Price pictures kind of bear was ‘born’ and Wendy Holloway were tending to fall off the display boards and has drawn wonderfully descriptive pictures. As my specially prepared information sheets were you can’t expect the fairies to do everything all curling up. It was so depressing, we thought no the time, Elaine makes the bears herself now by one would come. Luckily it didn’t actually rain – a real “somethin’ and nothin’” day – so people did come. I was told there were about forty but, to me, they were just a blur. The alpacas love visitors and lined up to get a good view. The girls were together in one enclosure and the youngest, Donna (born 30 July 2006) won lots of hearts. The ladies are all either black or white so little brown Donna really stands out.

Nearby the boys hoped today would be the day they’d get to the girls but accepted the situation and resigned themselves to just being looked at by a lot of camera-wielding humans. Note: al- ways be sure to bring your camera when visiting Nigel & the Alpacas, photo by Chris Tigg Issue No.32 Page 15 needle-felting: each one is unique. We can’t barn so giving us all hope for the coming of take the alpacas with us, but we will be taking summer. Our last visitor stayed to watch as the bears to visit the Teddy Bear Fair in Lost- Nigel opened gates and the alpacas returned to on Sunday, 24 June, where we will be their respective fields. The boys have a double showing other bears, made from alpaca fur fab- one divided by a beautiful, shady Cornish hedge ric as opposed to solid fibre. wile the girls’ field is long and curving, with Of course our new bears were not for sale but shade provided by some large trees. Each herd we had copies of Elaine’s book, some alpaca has a house where they can go inside if they post cards and some eggs that were. “Alpaca wish but they very rarely do. Our last visitor eggs, I presume” quipped Ed Harradence. “Yes, was eying Donna in that way people have with of course,” I replied. “Guaranteed to hatch into baby alpacas – trying to see if it perhaps they alpacas but only if you have an alpaca to sit on could get it in their bag? If Donna had been them.” A lot of “terk, terk, werk, terk” noises smaller, we’d have had to set up the “alpaca wafting from the nearby Hen Hilton gave clue as detector”. . . . . to the real providers of those eggs but, who knows, maybe we’ll have “alpaca eggs” in the Then, suddenly, everybody had gone and we future . . . . were alone in the yard, alone except for the swallows, swooping and diving overhead.

In spite of the weather, everyone seemed to en- © Janet E. Price April, 2007. joy their visit and no one seemed in a hurry to rush away. Five swallows checked out the old P.S. Sorry you missed meeting the alpacas? If you call us, perhaps something could be arranged. Tel:

Colour Aerial photograph of Treffry Viaduct available ested. Copies will be printed onto an 180gsm silk paper and supplied un-mounted ready for you to display as you wish. A4 size (297 x 210 mm) at £24.50 each A3 size (420 x 297mm) at £33.50 each In order for ‘The Friends’ to process this kind offer, we MUST receive your order by 31st July 2007.

Please send your details with a cheque for your photograph(s) payable to ‘The Friends of Luxu- lyan Valley’, to the Chairman: Christopher Tigg, Following our very successful 10th Birthday Ex- ‘Riverwood’, Gatty’s Bridge, Luxulyan, Bodmin, hibition held in the Luxulyan Village hall back in Cornwall, PL30 5DN. March, a number of visitors expressed an inter- For further information please telephone: est in obtaining a copy of the beautiful Aerial (01726) 850072 or Photograph of the Treffry Viaduct displayed on E-mail me at: [email protected] the Cornish Mining World Heritage stand. The photograph is reproduced here with a se- The colour photograph was taken in January curity watermark which will not be on the final 2005 as part of Cornish Mining’s bid to give version. Gamble Fearon Partners have also World Heritage status to the Luxulyan Valley. taken other photographs of the Viaduct, Wheel We are pleased to say that the copyright own- Pit and Incline. Should you be interested in see- ers of this photograph, Gamble Fearon Partners, ing or purchasing any of these other photo- have agreed to supply copies to anyone inter- graphs please contact Chris Tigg. Page 16 Luxulyan Valley News

Moths - Burning the Midnight Oil

struggle with the sheer volume of different spe- cies being captured in the little plastic specimen jars we had all been issued with. The names in themselves were fascinating - ‘Riband Wave’, Purple Clay’, ‘Fan-foot’, ‘Mottled Beauty’, ‘The Snout’, ‘The Uncertain’, ‘Pale Tussock’, ‘Clouded Silver’, ‘Arches’, ‘Figure of Eighty’. The list went on and on. Some species got Phil and Lee very excited as they are very rare, including ‘Blomer’s Rivulet’ sup- Poplar Hawk Moth photo by Ed Harrandence posedly not recorded in After a heavy days rain, expectations of our Cornwall for Moth identification evening were not high, and many years!! thoughts of a wash-out were looming. However Moths seem the weather cleared and by 9.30pm a small to have their group had gathered at Ponts Mill eager to see own period what the night would bring. Phil Boggis, our lo- each night cal expert, was joined by Lee Slaughter (from when they Privet Hawk Moth photo by Ed Harradence Cornwall Butterfly Conservation) in setting up prefer to fly, and so as the night drifted on we two generator driven sets of Mercury Vapour were rewarded with an ever increasing list of lights to attract the Valley’s moths, under which species. Just after midnight saw the arrival of our were laid large white sheets to act as a landing first Hawk Moths, the beautiful ‘Elephant Hawk- area for our moths, and this also made it easier moth’ and then the ‘Poplar Hawk-moth’. These for us to clearly see and identify them. The are truly magnificent in both size and colour. bright bluish UV light emitted from these bulbs Other late comers included the ‘Scorched Wing’, has proven to be the best light to attract moths particularly as moths cannot detect the red end ‘Dingy Footman’, ‘Scalloped Hazel’, ‘Peppered’, and ‘Blood-vein’. Again they kept coming and of the spectrum. coming, but after 1am we were all feeling a little While the skies shed the last of the evening’s weary, and so we packed up releasing our finds light Phil explained about how good The Luxu- and left the moths lyan Valley was for moths. With so much of the to busy themselves moth’s natural habitat in decline, the Valley was without our lights. a very important site for our native species. But We had seen 100’s the global warming effect had also caused the of moths and over number of UK resident species to rise to about 60 different spe- 1700. To identify a moth from a butterfly the cies and we all rule of thumb is if it flies at night it has to be a went to our beds moth, but during daylight hours some moths do with a great deal fly and are generally the brighter coloured vari- more understand- ties. Overcast warm nights are the best time to ing and respect for see moths and so with darkening, but clearing, these beautiful skies we waited for our first visitors. Phil Boggis photo by Ed Harradence creatures of the We did not have wait long before our first arri- night. Many thanks must go to Phil and Lee for vals – ‘Common Carpets’, ‘Brimstones’, ‘Swifts’ giving up their evening. Their enthusiasm was in- and ‘Flames’. As the evening drew on the vari- fectious and a fascinating evening was had by all. ety of visitors intensified and Phil began to Chris Tigg Issue No.32 Page 17

Bird Song It was a May morning, 6.30am, at Ponts Mill - example, give an alarm or to ask for food. Sid and the rain poured down. Sid Cole appeared pointed out that bird song identification was use- suitably attired for the deluge, and expressed his ful when conducting surveys – you will hear surprise at the number of people who had more than you will see! Not all birds can sing – turned out for the occasion – our early morning the Drumming Woodpecker communicates its bird song event. Chris welcomed Sid and the territory by ‘tap-tapping’ on the tree. And the gathered throng – as we set off we hoped that Cirl Bunting, a once common bird which has the birds would sing for us on this wet day. been declining due the changes in farming prac- tices and loss of habitat, has been re-introduced The first bird that Sid identified was the Chaf- into Cornwall – with the co-operation of farmers finch - its rather harsh call rang out from the the number of pairs has risen to 700 since 1993. trees. The Wren, which has the loudest call in the small bird kingdom, was happily singing – its Our route had taken us up the incline, over the song is so loud as it possesses a resonant cavity bridge and eventually down the rather steep which amplifies the notes. The Blackbird, with its steps to rejoin the incline. Having descended the fluttery ‘laid back’ call, was described as the incline we meandered towards the Ponts Mill Perry Como of the bird world – Sid recalled water turbine and our final destination – the ga- that on one of his walks a young lad was heard zebo and our breakfast of bacon butties lovingly to ask ‘Who’s Perry Como?’ and realised that cooked on the barbeque by John, and beautifully perhaps some of us were getting old. served by Maggie. Our water heater, providing the teas and coffees, was powered by electricity The Blackcap’s mellow rounded tones, the Song from the water turbine – this coffee was proba- Thrush’s repeating phrase and the Robin’s song bly the ‘greenest’ cup I have ever had. rang out. Generally it is the male bird that sings, however during the winter, male and female Many thanks to Sid, John and Maggie – and to Ed Robins sing when both are holding individual for connecting us to the Ponts Mill water tur- feeding territories. We heard the Chiffchaff – a bine. And thank you to Mr. Macintosh and Mr. small olive-brown warbler that prefers to nest Umbrella for trying to keep bits of us dry. For close to the ground. more information and advice about wild birds visit the website www.rspb.org.uk. Sid explained that birds use their song to attract mates and defend territories – birds call to, for Elaine Higman

Mason Bees need a Safe Place for their Nests. It’s always worth encouraging pollinating insects into your garden, and one of the best is the mason bee. Unlike the honey bee, this isn’t an aggressive bee and doesn’t swarm. Instead the female spends most of her life searching for hollow stems to use as nests. Having selected a stem, she lays an egg inside, with a store of pollen for the grub to eat when it hatches, then seals up the cell with a plug of mud and starts again. A single stem can end up with five or six cells. All being well, the bees emerge in spring, almost a year after they were laid as eggs. The oldest bee attempts to get out of its cell first, but it can’t because it has several siblings in front of it. So it breaks down the mud wall and bites the rear end of the bee in front. This process is repeated until the front bee gets the message and emerges, followed by its siblings. The males then spend a few frantic weeks trying to mate before dying, while the females set about a new season’s nesting. A supply of friable soil nearby (think molehill) is useful to help them seal up the cells. A thriving population of mason bees in a garden is thought to improve yields of fruit and veg. And they are fascinating to watch, too. Gardeners’ World magazine. The Friends of Luxulyan Committee Contacts: Valley Chris Tigg - Chairman 01726 850072 Elaine Higman- Vice chair 01726 850417 John Wright - Treasurer 01726 852436 Roger James - Secretary 01726 850769 Maggie Wright -Membership Secretary 01726 852436 Ed Harradence- Sales 01726 851158

Valley Membership Please send all contributions to Just a reminder that subscriptions Reg. Charity No. 1090218 Maggie Wright were due for renewal from the [email protected] beginning of April 2007.

Membership fees are: We’re on the web! We want to hear from you please let £75 for Life membership us know what you think! £25 for Corporate membership www.luxulyanvalley.co.uk £10 for Family membership All contributions by 30 August £8 for joint membership please £6 for Individual membership £1 for Junior membership. If you wish to join the Friends of Forthcoming Events the Valley, please contact: Maggie Wright 01726 852436 Friday 6 July 2007—7.00pm Email: [email protected] Ride with Roger A ride in the Bodmin & Wenford Railway brake van behind a steam driven loco. Meet Bodmin General Railway Station. Tickets £12.50 each. Booking Essential by 29 June Tel: 01726 850072 We stop half way through the evening to feed the engine!! This is usually a time for the passengers feed themselves too!! Pasties (Meat or Cheese) are available from the Bodmin & Wenford tea room if ordered with your tickets. Teas & coffees can also be purchased on the night, but you are welcome to bring your own refreshments.

Sunday 22 July 2007 - 10.00 am Wildflower Walk. Take a morning walk and learn about the wildflowers in the Luxulyan Valley with botanist Ian Benallick Meet Black Hill car park. Map Ref: SX059 573

Sunday 12 August 2007 - 2.30 pm Ponts Mill Community Turbine. Learn how the turbine works and with your help is now generat- ing electricity and money for the valley; with Peter Trebilcock of Valley Hydro and Ed Harradence. Join us for a cup of ‘Hydro’ tea or coffee and cakes. Meet Ponts Mill Car Park. Map Ref: SX072 562

Friday 24 August 2007 - 8.00 pm Bats. An evening walk in the Luxulyan Valley listening to and spotting bats using the latest electronic bat detectors with Dr. Carol Williams from Natural . Meet Ponts Mill Car Park. Map Ref: SX072 562

Saturday 29 September 2007—10.00 am Clay Country Tour with Ivor Bowditch of Imerys. Coach Tour of the clay country taking in the port of Fowey and a rare opportunity to travel down the private road that was the former rail link between Par and Fowey. The coach will return at around 3.00 pm with a stop for lunch, refreshments will be available. Booking essential by 14 September Tel: 01726 850072 Free to members £3.00 for non-members

Meet: Wheal Martyn China Clay Country park Carthew Map Ref: SX 005 554