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Home , Durham Dales, Eggleston, Ettersgill, High Force, Holwick, Low Force

magazine spring 2011 magazine spring 2011 Northern Northern England 11/02/2011 12:43 03 Hebden Bridge, West 04 , l Distance 11km/7 miles l time 4hrs l type Hill, woodland valley, open farmland l Distance 18km/11¼ miles l time 6hrs l type valley and moorland

NavigatioN FitNess NavigatioN FitNess 2 level 2 3 level 3 2 level 2 2/3 level 2/3

plan your walk plan your walk

West Forest and l

l Firth l ettersgill YoRKsHiRe Denholme

Clough l HeBDeN BRiDge Co.DURHaM teesDaLe Luddenden

Foot l

l Halifax l Kirkby stephen troP l

Cragg vale l sowerby Bridge Birkdale

l Melbecks l Ripponden l

Where: Circular walk Where: Circular walk from from Hebden Bridge via Bowlees via Cronkley Fell Heptonstall and Hardcastle and High and hy: FIoNa BarL PhotograPhy: Crags. tEVE MorgaN S PhotograPhy: waterfalls. Start/end: st george’s The rugged moorland and deep, taking the L-hand track, marked Start/end: Bowlees visitor The North , Britain’s 1. START the Bowlees visitor square, Hebden Bridge wooded valleys of the South ‘Private road‘. Pass a house on Centre car park (NY907283). second largest AONB, is one of Centre, housed in an old (sD992272). Pennines have long inspired your R and, just before a grassy terrain: Moorland and the most remote and unspoilt Methodist chapel, is worth a visit terrain: Mainly footpaths writers and poets, including the parking area, turn R on to a riverside path. places in the country, and hence either before or after your walk. and tracks, some cobbled, Brontë sisters and Ted Hughes, track, which offers views of the MapS: os explorer oL31; often described as ‘england’s last From it, follow the track that with two fairly steep and provided recreation for 19th-century ‘over-and-under‘ Landranger 91 or 92. wilderness‘. Slicing through this heads north-west past ash Head ascents and descents. some generations of mill workers. millworkers’ houses built into GettinG there: the Upper landscape of high, isolated Farm. there are lovely views from swing gates and stiles. This walk begins and finishes in Calderdale’s steep sides. teesdale Bus Link service moorland are the here up and down teesdale. the MapS: os explorer 21; the picturesque former mill-town 73, between , – , Teesdale and the track descends to the hamlet Landranger 103. of Hebden Bridge, now a vibrant 2. turn L after the cottages and Middleton-in-teesdale and Derwent valley. Unlike the more of Dirt Pit (an undeservedly GettinG there: three creative community, described continue uphill over cobbles and Langdon Beck, stops at famous and crowded Yorkshire unflattering name), where you trains an hour run from by British Airways’ magazine into Heptonstall. a popular film Bowlees (✆ 01833 640213). Dales to the south, the Durham join a lane and bear R, continuing Leeds and Manchester High Life as ‘the fourth funkiest set, this ancient town has eatinG & drinkinG: Dales remain relatively unknown, in the same direction. after about (two on sundays) town in the world‘. buildings dating back 600 years. there’s a café at Bowlees but they afford some beautiful 1km/0.62mile, turn L at a gate (✆ 0845 748 4950, it was a Roundhead garrison visitor Centre, and more scenery and excellent walking. with the name Birch Rigg on it www.northernrail.org). 1. START – Facing the shoulder during the english civil war, and Three of the country’s finest and follow the footpath up past eatinG & drinkinG: Plenty cafés, pubs, hotels and a of Mutton pub on st george’s the site of an extended siege and fish and chip shop in waterfalls – low Force, the house, continuing across of options in Hebden square (sD993272), turn L down bloody battle. the 13th-century and – are found fields, then along a grassy track to Middleton-in-teesdale. Bridge, including the Bridge gate. after 50m, turn R to church of st thomas à Becket along the , all linked a tarmac lane. stay on the lane to the nearby villages of shoulder of Mutton, make the first of many crossings (now in ruins) took a battering by the . In each bring you down to the main valley Mickleton, Holwick, st george’s square of Hebden Water, using the from Royalist cannonballs when case the waterfall has formed road – the B6277 – where there’s ✆ , and ( 01422 842585), and 500-year-old packhorse bridge sheepskins were used in a vain where the river cascades over a Methodist chapel opposite all have pubs Mooch, Market street that gave the town its name. attempt to protect the tower. a outcrops of the Great . (NY871295). and, in Forest-in-teesdale, (✆ 01422 846954). also ascend the steep, cobbled route, 19th-century church now stands This highly scenic walk in Upper you’ll find the High Force the towngate tea Room used for centuries by packhorse nearby. among the 100,000 Teesdale leads you over wild 2. turn R and almost immediately

& Deli in Heptonstall trains laden with wool, lime and graves are those of the poet Hotel and the Langdon Cronkley Fell, then back past L down a track that leads to a ▲ ✆ ▲

( 07989 321931). salt. on reaching a road, turn L sylvia Plath and counterfeiter Beck Hotel. visit www. low and High Force – both bridge over the River tees. Cross then almost immediately R, ‘King‘ David Hartley, who was very impressive sights. and bear R along a footpath, ▼ ▼ 51-52 WALK30 NORTHERN ROUTEMASTER.indd 1

Ordnance Survey mapping © Crown copyright. AM34/08

FINISH START START 1 4 2 5 cross the bridge. Instead, keeping the river on your L, climb through woods. At a track, turn L downhill to a car park. L through the Old Lodge Turn gates, then R, past a pillarbox on your R and over another old stone bridge (New Bridge). 5. Cross the bridge and turn L along the riverside path, past Club, Men’s Midgehole Working then L across a footbridge. Turn R and follow the footpath over a stile, then L up to Midgehole R and follow the road Road. Turn for 400m. At Rawholme, turn R and pick up a track through woodland. Before it turns to tarmac by housing, turn R down some steep steps, cross a track and follow the riverside path to a footbridge. Cross the river and turn L, past a bowling green and cricket pitch, then over another old bridge to return the centre of Hebden. Route devised by Steve Morgan 3

Map not to scale. Representation of MAP 21OS Explorer 1:25,000 www.ordnancesurvey.co.uk towards a weather vane. At the farm, turn R onto a track, and at the cattle shed turn L onto a bridleway (signed to Crimsworth Dene). Continue uphill to Shackleton Knoll. Stop to enjoy the panoramic views over Gorple and Widdop Walshaw, reservoirs, Hebden and Calder valleys, Crimsworth Dene, Cragg and Stoodley Pike. Go Vale through the stile/gate and turn R, following a bridleway through a gate and downhill. At the abandoned farmhouse, turn R on Link bridleway, to the Calder-Aire and after 100m turn L down a steep bridleway to Lumb Falls, a popular local swimming spot. R before the waterfalls. 4. Turn With the river on your L, follow the valley over a dry-stone stile to a tumbledown (but inhabited) R down the track and, farm. Turn before the gate, turn L down field into trees. Carry on to Crimsworth Dene Beck. Don’t

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: South Holme House nformation: nformation: i ambler S r itor S uidebook ocal ocal Sleeping: Vi S g l B&B, Hebden Bridge ( ✆ 01422 847588, www. holme househebdenbridge. co.uk). and Hebden Bridge Visitor Canal Centre ( ✆ 01422 843831, www.hebden bridge.co.uk/tourist-info). Pennines and the Bronte Moors by Andrew Bibby (£7.99, Frances Lincoln, ISBN 9780711225015). Calderdale Ramblers ( ✆ 01422 823440). c ontinued... hanged in 1770. Continue up the cobbled street and turn R just after the White Lion pub to join a footpath, which eventually bears L across open fields. At the road, turn L and after 50yds R, taking a footpath to the L, which follows the rim of pass through shrubs You’ll valley. of bilberry and bracken, stands of beech and gnarled oak, before reaching a break in the R here and dry-stone wall. Turn take the steep footpath down to the Hebden Hey scout centre. L and continue downhill to Turn reach stepping stones across Once across, turn Hebden Water. L along the riverside path to reach Gibson Mill, built in 1800 and now housing the Muddy Boots Café (seasonal opening visitor hours) and a National Trust centre using sustainable energy. 3. Cross the stone bridge and turn R, keeping to the riverside path. After the third footbridge, climb up to a track, turn L over the small arched bridge and immediately turn R through a wall to climb steep footpath up a small valley, with the river on your R (take care!). Follow the sign for through a stile-cum-gateWalshaw and up a steep field, heading

Ordnance Survey mapping © Crown copyright. AM34/08

1

FINISH START START unique sugar limestone soil, which supports a type of grassland that is rich in species. The grassy track – a way known as the former drover’s – leads you down the Green Trod other side of the plateau to a junction with a footpath (at NY861280). L to join the Pennine Way. 4. Turn a stone marker here There’s displaying arrows and the initials andPW and GT – Pennine Way Green Trod. R along the well-marked 5. Turn This leads you first Pennine Way. past the spectacular High Force (NY880284), where the River Tees drops 21m/69ft over the Great Whin Sill into a plunge pool and, further on, to the below, L to attractive Low Force. Turn cross the Winch (suspension) Bridge and follow the path up to the road, and thence back to car park. Route devised by Fiona Barltrop

2 Map not to scale. Representation of MAP 31OS Explorer 1:25,000 www.ordnancesurvey.co.uk 5 4 progress. which soon runs alongside the (on its south side). From the Tees for about bridge, follow the Tees gentle walking, 4km/2½ miles. It’s though the surroundings become progressively wilder as you head west. The area you are now in is part of the Moor House – Upper National Nature Reserve. Teesdale As the valley narrows between Cronkley Fell and Widdybank Fell, the path hemmed in by river on one side and the foot of there Cronkley Fell on the other, are boardwalks to facilitate your 3. When the riverbank broadens out on your side, keep a look-out for a path on your L (NY828281), heading E up the steep slopes of Cronkley Fell. The grassy path up slopes should bethe heather-clad obvious, as should the cairn at top. There are good views back from here. Valley over the Tees Cairns lead you across the plateau, passing a number of fenced enclosures, which were erected to prevent any further erosion of the

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Walking in : Walking In Middleton-in- nformation: i ambler S r itor S uidebook ocal ocal l g Sleeping: Vi S County Durham by Paddy Dillon (£12, Cicerone, ISBN in 9781852845377); Walking the by Paddy Dillon (£12.95, Cicerone, ISBN 9781852844936). Middleton-in-Teesdale TIC Middleton-in-Teesdale ( ✆ 01833 641001, www.middletonplus.org.uk, teesdale.co.uk, www.explore www.visitnortheastengland. com). Barnard Castle Ramblers ( ✆ 01833 650192, www. barnardcastleramblers.org. uk). middletonplus.org.uk for more suggestions. Teesdale: the Teesdale Hotel the Teesdale Teesdale: ( ✆ 01833 640264, www. teesdalehotel.co.uk); Belvedere House B&B ( ✆ 01833 640884); Brunswick House guest house ( ✆ 01833 640393). a variety of There’s self-catering accommodation in the area, including East Briscoe Farm Cottages ( ✆ 01833 650087, www.eastbriscoe.co.uk) and Brock Scar Cottage ( ✆ 01833 640495, www.brockscar.co.uk). 3 c ontinued...

51-52 WALK30 NORTHERN ROUTEMASTER.indd 2 11/02/2011 12:44