Adventure Cyclist GO the DISTANCE

waypoints 8 mechanical advantage 54 open road gallery 63

Adventure Cyclist GO THE DISTANCE. march 2011 www.adventurecycling.org $4.95

bike tripping: Time to Take a Bicycle Vacation "We had a truly memorable trip...we had high expectations and Randonnee exceeded them. I would have no hesitation in recommending Randonnee Tours to friends." P. Hardy – Provence 10 days cycling

Combine one-of-a-kind hotels, meticulously researched routes, custom bicycles, luggage transfers and behind the scenes support that accommodates your desire for independence, flexibility and freedom.

Visit www.randonneetours.com Or call 1-800-242-1825

Adventure Cycling Readers: when booking, please reference code AC0210 and you will receive a complimentary custom cycling jersey valued at USD$80.

Great Explorations offers guided cycling and walking vacations to the world's most exotic places. “Many thanks for an incredible week of bicycling in France. The Choose between Luxe and Classic/Casual hotels were gorgeous, the meals incredible. The guides did an trips featuring distinctive hotels, excellent outstanding job. On a scale of 1 to 10, this trip gets a 12 in my book!” cuisine, unique events and exceptional L. Sams – Raleigh, NC, USA guides who make sure the magic occurs on each and every trip.

Your journey starts here. Visit www.great-explorations.com Or call 1-800-242-1825 3:2011 contents March 2011 · Volume 38 Number 2 · www.adventurecycling.org

Adventure Cyclist is published nine times each year by the Adventure Cycling Association, a nonprofit service organization for recreational bicyclists. Individual membership costs $40 yearly to U.S. addresses and includes a subscription to Adventure Cyclist and dis- counts on Adventure Cycling maps. The entire contents of Adventure Cyclist are copyrighted by Adventure Cyclist and may not be reproduced in whole or in part without written permission from Adventure Cyclist. All rights reserved. Our Cover Maps, bikes, and wilderness. Three cool things that go well together. Photo by Libby Sterling. (left) Rick Price of ExperiencePlus! channels his inner Garibaldi. Actually,

g r egg bl ea k ne y the painting depicts a local bandit in Orgosolo, Sardinia. 10 A pearl in the mediterranean by Gregg Bleakney Taking a bike trip of Sardinia with ExperiencePlus! reveals much of the ancient island. MISSION The mission of Adventure Cycling Association is to inspire people of all hung(a)ry in style by Colleen Friesen ages to travel by bicycle. We help 20 Seeing Hungary through wine goggles, with Bike Tours Direct, and Vinociped leads to a cyclists explore the landscapes and grand time of cycling. history of America for fitness, fun, and self-discovery.

touring Alaska’s prince of wales island by Geoff Kirsch CAMPAIGNS 28 A New Yorker moves to Alaska and takes advantage of great touring opportunities. Our strategic plan includes three major campaigns: Creating Bike Routes for America mckenzie pass revisited by Willie Weir Getting Americans Bicycling 38 Willie and his bike-travel companion, Thomas, return to the scene of an earlier adventure. Supporting Bicycling Communities How to Reach Us To join, change your address, or ask departments LETTERS questions about membership, visit us online at www.adventurecycling.org or call (800) 755-2453 or (406) 721-1776 07 companions wanted 04 LETTER from the ediTOR email: [email protected] 08 WAYPOINTS 05 LETTERs from the readers Subscription Address: ANNUAL report LETTER from the direcTOR Adventure Cycling Association 42 06 P.O. Box 8308 Missoula, MT 59807 BICYCLE TRAVEL photo COLUMNS 50 Headquarters: coMPETITION Adventure Cycling Association 52 curves in the road / Jill Homer 150 E. Pine St. 56 LIFE MEMBER PROFILE Pushing the limits of what can be done on a bicycle Missoula, MT 59802 58 marketplace/classifieds 54 mechanical advantage / Jan Heine Learning how to properly brake a bicycle 63 OPEN ROAD GALLERY

ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 3 Adventure Letter from the Editor Cyclist time to crank it up March 2011 volume 38 number 2 Bike travel of all stripes is worth the effort www.adventurecycling.org

editor michael deme mdeme@ adventur ecycling.org Deputy editor jill homer Ah, the March issue, and the smell of bike jhomer@ adventurecycling.org art director travel is in the air. Yes, bike travel. That’s a greg si ple gsiple@ adventurecycling.org term we’ve adopted over the recent years as a technical editor john schubert sort of catch all for what Adventure Cycling Association schubley@ aol.com FIELD editor and Adventure Cyclist are all about. It’s an inclusive term michael mccoy mmccoy@ adventurecycli ng.org that accommodates all your own adventure. contributing writers types of cyclists: those And for those inter- dan d'ambrosio nancy c lark willie weir joe kurmaskie looking for something ested in finances, on jan heine of a get-away vacation page 42 you’ll find Copy Editor phyllis picklesimer that still includes riding the Adventure Cycling advertising director a bicycle as a major com- Association 2010 Annual rick bruner 509.493.4930 ponent of their trip or Report detailing the advertising@ adventurecycling.org self-contained cyclotour- financials of the previ- STAFF ists, who are the epitome ous fiscal year. If after executive director of self reliance and hit perusing those infor- jim sayer the road ready to enjoy mation-packed pages jsayer@ adventurecycling.org chief operations officer whatever experiences you have any questions, sheila snyder, cpa come their way as they pedal along well- contact our Chief Financial Officer Sheila membership & Development julie huck amy corbin traveled or less formalized routes — and Snyder at (406) 721-1776 x 212 or email thomas bassett joshua tack we’ve got stories in this issue that repre- [email protected]. media sent both kinds of bike travel. (I know, On page 50, you’ll find our second winona bateman michael mccoy publications there are other types, and we’ll get to annual Bicycle Travel Photo Competition. michael d eme greg siple them in later issues). This year, there were well over 700 sub- jill homer derek gallagher it department Gregg Bleakney’s story about a bike missions to choose from, many of which john sieber richard darne trip on the Mediterranean island of were very good, making our decision on matt sheils tours Sardinia with ExperiencePlus! is a good the final seven quite difficult. We hope rod kramer mo mislive ts example of the former. It’s a great read, you’ll enjoy the final selections as much sam hall paul hansbarger routes and mapping and it reminds me that I should retire to as we do. carla majernik jennifer milyko Sardinia. All I’ll need is a shack with a Also, we’ve published our first-ever virginia sullivan kevin mcmanigal casey greene nathan taylor view of the ocean, a goat, and the ability web-only feature. It’s about a free cycle sales and marketing to make cheese. Oh, and a lot of peace and camp created for traveling cyclists in teri maloughney cyclosource quiet. And probably a rudimentary broom Twin Bridges, Montana. You can find it ted bowman sarah r az to occasionally sweep out the place. here: adventurecycling.org/features/twin office manager To represent the more rough-and bridges.cfm. beth petersen ready-style of bike travel, we’ve got A couple of corrections from the board of directors Willie Weir re-cycling a bike adventure February issue: We missed a placeholder president from his youth and Geoff Kirsch putting and listed the price of the Brooks Oxford carol york vice president together a wild and wooly adventure in Rain Cape as $2X0. Well, it’s not a cognac jennifer garst Alaska, America’s last great frontier. but it is $290. And Bubbafest only has secretary andy baur Perhaps reading this collection of room for 125 riders, not the outlandish treasurer bike-travel stories will inspire you to 1,200 that we printed. andy huppert take a trip with one of the many bicycle- board members jason boucher todd copley tour operators listed on page 26 or visit Michael Deme george mendes jeff miller donna o'neal wally werner the Cyclists’ Yellow Pages online (adven Editor, Adventure Cyclist magazine turecycling.org/cyp) and start planning [email protected]

4 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 5 Letters from our Readers

Keep skin damage at bay, training wheels fight back AC as lobbying tool

Saving face nine times a year. So, nine times a year feeling the breeze on my face — liber- Willie Weir’s photo in the October/ bicycling occupies each reader’s (legisla- ated! November issue had the desired effect. tor and staffer alike) attention for a little As an aside I mention that Mr. Heine’s All I had to do was point to the small, while. Acronyms seem to be important dissection of the physics of the turn scaly spot below the corner of my left to governments and agencies so this pro- should help people who want to learn to eye and the dermatologist said “Oh, yeah, gram is now titled HELP (Help Eliminate ride with no hands on the bars (a very that’s a pre-cancerous lesion.” She gave it Legislative Pouting!). Try it in your dis- useful skill at times). It’s not a matter of a couple of blasts of nitrogen, briefed me trict. balance, arms outstretched like a Flying on UV-A & B, specified SPF 50 or better, William Abbey Walenda on the high wire. Rather it’s a and, for me the cyclist, recommended Poulsbo, Washington matter of exploiting the bike’s steering Neutrogena Helioplex Sport and No Ad geometry to move the handlebars with sunscreens. Thanks, Willie. Training wheels help hip movements. Mark Shifflett In Mr. Heine’s otherwise excellent article Jeanne Kennerly Newton, Kansas on “Cornering a Bicycle” (February issue) Boulder, Colorado he misses the point of training wheels. As Help a local legislator many of us know from personal experi- Jan Heine responds: West Sound Cycling Club of Washington ence, training wheels, rather than being Your suggestion of placing the training State decided to award a subscription of “counterproductive” can be an effective wheels high enough to still allow balanc- Adventure Cyclist to each state legislator way to learn. It happens automatically. ing is interesting. My children learned to (and senator) that represents our rider- My point is that training wheels should balance on a scooter, so the transition to a ship. The reading material available in not prevent the bike from leaning but bicycle was easy. There were no “spills,” the waiting areas (obviously overflow only limit the amount of lean (to reduce and thus no need for training wheels. from the staff) tended towards Concrete the likelihood of a spill). They serve as Quarterly, Bridge Builders Annual, and stops only, not props to hold the bike Health Providers Review. I believe that rigidly vertical. Properly adjusted, they furnishing Adventure Cyclist is an attrac- allow the learner to absorb the turning Your letters are welcome. Due to the volume of mail tive and viable adjunct to traditional techniques Mr. Heine describes by safely and email we receive, we cannot print every letter. lobbying efforts. It introduces and rein- riding in a more or less straight line. Over We may edit letters for length and clarity. If you do forces bicycling as transportation, as an a period of time, this does the job. I still not want your comments to be printed in Adventure economic force (even beyond tourism), remember the thrill when my dad took Cyclist, please state so clearly. Please include your name and address with your correspondence. Email and as a healthy life-long recreation that them off: I didn’t know how I was doing your comments, questions, or letters to editor@ has population-wide impact benefiting us it, but there I was — riding, turning this adventurecycling.org or mail to Editor, Adventure all. The best part is that it arrives about way and that, up and down the street, Cyclist, P.O. Box 8308, Missoula, MT 59807. The People’s Coast Classic September 11-16, 2011 Astoria to Brookings, Oregon A six-day ride down the Oregon Coast

800.746.1821 thepeoplescoastclassic.org

4 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 5 Letter from the Director Wake-Up Call From Capitol Hill to local communities, it’s time to defend and promote cycling

Two decades ago, Congress and the White House agreed to a major shift in how federal transportation dollars could be spent. For the first time, they allowed a portion of the Highway Trust Fund (generated by the federal gas tax) to be invested in cycling and walking facilities and programs. In many cases, these investments are matched by state, local, and private investments, which make federal dollars go even further. The result? A wave of new bike lanes, rail-trails, signage, and Why cut the budget for programs to enable people of all ages to Wisconsin found that bicycle-related tour- ride to work, schools, or shops and to use ism alone generates nearly $1 billion in the most cost-effective their bikes for recreation and vacations. statewide economic activity! Adventure transportation invest- 20 years later, we see evidence on Cycling is working with groups like the the ground and in the census that these National Bicycle Tour Directors Association ments in America? investments have dramatically boosted the and through our project work on the U.S. number of people riding bicycles. That’s Bicycle Route System to collect and share especially the case in metro areas which this information to make the case for cost- have matched (or exceeded) federal fund- effective investment in cycling. ing. Another positive result: with bike We’ll also be working with you, our investments, you get a lot of transport for a members, to contact political leaders as little money. Portland, Oregon, has shown they develop future transportation bud- that, for $60 million (the cost of one mile gets and policies. As we have in the past, of urban highway), they were able to build Adventure Cycling will focus most of our a bike network that has doubled and even resources on publications, maps, route quadrupled cycling throughout the city. development, tours, and outreach. But it’s This should be a sweet story of suc- also critical that all of us who care about cess — except that federal investments safe and enjoyable cycling in the U.S. advo- in cycling could soon come under attack. cate strongly for national support of an In mid-February, there was concern that interconnected system of bicycle networks the U.S. House of Representatives would — on-road and off — from the neighbor- With a cup of joe from the bike-friendly cut deeply into already modest federal hood to national levels. We also need to Blue Scorcher Bakery Café in Astoria, spending on biking and walking (just promote policies, like safe passage require- Oregon, Jim prepares to meet the chal- one percent of the transportation bud- ments for drivers and complete street lenges facing bicycling in the U.S. get). Fortunately, it didn’t happen. But requirements for cities, to make cycling an there are murmurs from political leaders attractive option for everyone. in Washington, DC, that bicycling is not In the coming year, you’ll be hearing worthy of national investment — and these from us occasionally, asking you to join murmurs are coming as Congress and the in the debate about America’s transporta- White House gear up to revise the multi- tion priorities. I hope you’ll work with me year authorizing bill that determines future and millions of other cyclists to continue transportation spending and policies. America’s positive and beneficial transfor- As cyclists we need to boost our efforts mation into a truly bike-friendly nation. to educate Congress and local officials about the beneficial impacts of bicy- Jim Sayer cling for America’s health, environment, Executive Director and economy. As an example, in 2010, [email protected]

6 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 7 Companions Wanted

Providing partners for tours, domestic and abroad, since 1978

Southern Tier East to West I’m a retired man trip starting in mid-May 2011 in Greece and TransAm — June 2011 Retired married couple riding from St. Augustine, Florida, to San Diego, then proceeding north along the Adriatic in in their 50s looking for two to four traveling California, starting mid-April 2011. In 2009, I Italy with possible trips into Switzerland, companions for a first time TransAmerica bike completed the East Coast route from Key West Austria, Germany, France, northwestern Spain adventure. Flexible as to direction: east to west to Bar Harbor. I’m looking to complete the and finishing in Portugal. I’m an experienced or west to east. Planning on beginning in early Southern Tier in 2011. I plan to ride 50 to 70 59-year-old Seattle cycle tourist (four previous June 2011, ending early September, averaging miles per day with flexible miles and schedule. trips in parts of Europe). About half camping 50 mile days with rest days as needed. Motels Mostly camping. No cooking. Motels as neces- and half rooms/motels. We will ride about 40 preferred. Gladly willing to contribute to a sary. Rest days planned. I’m an easy-going guy to 60 miles per day. If interested email Ben30@ rider/driver team for support. If interested email so I’m looking for easy-going cyclists to make comcast.net. [email protected]. this a fun tour. Sag vehicle would be considered. Time frame: 57 days, plus or minus. If interested Danube to the Black Sea — May 2011 I’m look- TransAm — 2011 I’m looking for people to join email [email protected]. ing for companions to bike the Danube in a in a TransAm trip from June 3 to the begin- self-contained tour. The ride is about 1,200 ning of August. I plan to start in Yorktown and TransAm — Summer 2011 I’m a 31-year-old from kilometers and fairly flat. With a few rest stops ride west. I’m in good shape and would like to England planning to ride the TransAm route and pannier-free side trips, it can probably get the trip done in two months (I’m a college east to west from May to July 2011. I’m aim- be done comfortably in three weeks (return- student and I need to get back for classes and ing for about 60 miles per day, mostly camping ing to Budapest by rail). Camping with some work). I’m a beginning bicycle traveler who is with the occassional motel night and rest day. I hostel/pension stays. I’m a veteran older man willing to listen to new ideas, strategies, etc. If would love to ride with someone else as much as and experienced bicycle tourist with extensive interested email [email protected]. possible, someone who’s there for the experience European experience. I’m mechanically handy, rather than just the physical challenge. If inter- resourceful, knowledgeable, sociable, and con- Northern Tier July — 2011 I’m a 55-year-old male ested email [email protected]. sider myself a fun, flexible traveling companion. retiring on June 28. I plan to ride the Northern If interested email [email protected]. Tier eastbound, leaving on June 29. Mostly self Travel Down the Mississippi River I’m look- supported and 50 percent camping. I plan to ing for a partner or partners for a tour of the TransAm — East to West I’m a retired male who average 75 miles per day. My wife will be driv- Mississippi River Trail beginning in early May. would like to leave Yorktown, Virginia, the first ing some support with some gear transport pos- I will start from Lake Itasca and ride to the New week of May. Anyone interested who would like sible. If interested email [email protected]. Orleans Delta. Gender and experience doesn’t to ride with me part or all the way is welcome. I Adventure Cycling Association assumes, but can- matter. This will be my first cross-country tour. would like to enjoy the ride and have fun along not verify, that the persons above are truthfully My pace will be around 60 miles a day. If inter- the way. Would like to be in Portland, Oregon, representing themselves. Ads are free to Adventure ested email [email protected]. no later than July 15. We’ll stay at motels and Cycling members. You can see more ads and post camp some along the way, riding 50 miles a day. new ones at www.adventurecycling.org/mag/comp European 2011 Adventure One or two compan- If interested email [email protected]. anions.cfm or send your ad to Adventure Cyclist, ions are wanted for part or all of an extended P.O. Box 8308, Missoula, MT 59807.

6 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 7 News you can use from the world of bicycle travel by Michael McCoy WayPoints

REad the divide Eat, Sleep, Ride: How I Braved Bears, Badlands, and Big Breakfasts in My Quest to Cycle the Tour Divide, by Paul Howard, who finished the 2009 version of the 2,745-mile race in 27 days plus change. After reading the book, I con- cluded that Howard has either a photographic memory or an ultra-efficient method of docu- menting on-the-go facts. It’s an entertaining read, filled with both humorous and poignant observations from a British cyclist’s point of view. Howard’s fear of bears and distrust of strangers are pretty strong, and some of his attempts at transcribing rural Western colloquialisms struck me as slightly condescend-

ing, but a certain degree of his G R EG SIP L E attitude is no doubt reflective of Dave Allen, a California high-wheel enthusiast, found his 1986 portrait on the box when he visited last summer. the sleep-deprived, overexerted, undercalorized state endemic to GREG GETS THE GREEN LIGHT Thinking outside the box, literally According to Greg Siple, concerts.” “I pointed out that my focus Adventure Cycling’s venerated Until, that is, the Missoula is on the bicycling visitors art director, there are 72 traf- Public Art Committee launched who flock to Missoula every fic-switch boxes in Missoula, an innovative project to turn summer, and for a day or two Montana. these austere monoliths into are an important part of the “Containing the electrical canvases for local artists. Missoula fabric,” he said. circuitry for traffic light signals, the Greg was among the artists Greg’s box featured a total gray metal boxes sit on concrete chosen to embellish one of of 28 photos drawn from bases and are about 6 feet tall and the switch boxes. While some the National Bicycle Touring 2 by 3 1/2 feet around,” he said. artists painted directly on the Portrait Collection. “Though all So what, you ask? Read on. boxes, others, like Greg, pro- the original photos are black those racing the world’s longest “Generally, the boxes are all duced their art digitally and and white, I tinted them to mountain-bike route. but invisible to those driving, had it transferred to a vinyl make a more colorful display,” The book comes highly rec- bicycling, or walking by,” Greg wrap. His piece, Biking to he said. ommended for anyone inter- said, “Though they historically Missoula, fulfills the art com- You can learn more about ested in peeking inside the have served as targets for mittee’s requirement that each the project and view other strange world of Great Divide graffiti and places to tape fli- piece reflect some aspect of examples at www.ci.missoula. racing. ers announcing yard sales and Missoula culture. mt.us/index.aspx?NID=1013.

8 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 9 FAT-TIRE FREEDOM PAYING IT Three cheers for the Last Frontier! FORWARD Retired teacher and fellow On December 29, Craig Missoulian Ethel MacDonald Medred of the Alaska Dispatch sent us this great story from (alaskadispatch.com) reported her Seattle-to-San Francisco that last summer, rangers at ride of last fall: the Lake Clark National Park “After sloshing up and down and Preserve, located 150 the coast, I was elated to see miles west of Anchorage (and the Westport Inn (California) where no roads lead to or and its espresso sign. Parked through), turned to ultra-fat- in front were two loaded bikes tired “snow bikes” for patrol- whose owners, Kendra and ling the beach along the Cook Sarah, soon emerged. I greeted Inlet coast. them and told them I was stay- According to Medred, an ing for the night and offered to annual report issued by the share a room. They accepted. park stated: “The entire coast “Otto, the inn’s 80-year- from Johnson River to the old owner, invited us to make Chinitna Bay Ranger Station, ourselves comfortable in the about a 30-mile ride, can be dining room, and allowed us to traversed in a day by bike. (A spread our wet tents all over pack raft) is used to cross a small utility room. We spent Er ic pa r sons the major rivers encountered the rest of the day using the Internet, making tea, and even along the route. Otherwise it winter in Yellowstone, for always trained and authorized cooking dinner in his kitchen. is mostly firm beach cruising. example, snow bikers were to use ATVs,” the report con- “The next morning, The riding is quite fast and turned away from riding the tinued. “Much positive feed- Lavender, the housekeeper, provides a good alternative for groomed roads that are open back has been received from convinced us we would be travel without the use of fuel.” to motorized snowmobiles and visitors about the park’s use of miserable and foolhardy to And this from a unit of snow coaches. a good ‘green’ alternative, and cycle the narrow coastal road the National Park Service, “The fat-tire bikes also were many appreciated the lack of in such heavy rain. The clinch- an agency often noted for its very useful to VIPs stationed noise.” er was her offer of vegetable bicycle unfriendliness. Last at Chinitna Bay who are not soup for lunch. We settled in for another warm and dry day with Otto, who brought us coffee and chocolate chip OFF ROAD, ON ROAD cookies while Lavender did Hybrid touring in the Great Southwest our laundry. When riders Cody and Daniel dripped in, they too Several weeks ago, Waypoints El Malpais National Monument. His summary: “The ride was were offered soup. As we five received a message and an On night two, eschewing an unique and unforgettable in cyclists visited, Otto appeared Internet link from member Mike overnight at the storied Toaster many regards. Okay, it was a with a warm chocolate cake Ousley of Huntington Beach, House in Pie Town — because total blast!” for everybody. When Cody California. “Hi, guys,” he wrote. he was in “solo-mojo” mode Mike’s journey was more or and Daniel eventually left the “Just completed a 12-day tour — he camped in self-imposed less a shakedown ride for a warmth to continue their jour- on part of the Great Divide solitary confinement at remote planned assault on the entire ney, Otto said, ‘No charge.’ in New Mexico and road rid- Jackson Park. Great Divide region that he There was no charge for any ing in southeastern Arizona, After the Plains of San and his wife, Moria, of the extras we’d enjoyed, using your maps and .gpx files. Agustin (“the other Big Sky intend to and the room price Fabulous — many thanks! Use Country,” Mike calls it) and a do on their was less my narrative in any way you’d roller-coaster ride through the tandem one than origi- like to help pump the bike- Gila National Forest, a wrong day. You nally quoted. packing psyche.” turn took him off the Great can check Hugging him Okay, then. After tapping Divide onto pavement and into out his good-bye, into Mike’s online report and the town of Mimbres, where photos and the three of prowling around a bit, we he bivied under a self-service entertaining us agreed learned that he started his late- countertop in the town post ride report that Otto had autumn ride in Grants, New office. After that it was west at www. inspired us Mexico. On his first day out into Arizona for more exquisite ousleycreative.com/ to be better, he experienced “some of the road riding and some interest- GreatDivideMBR_recon.pdf. more generous people.” sweetest road riding ever” in ing experiences.

8 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 9 A PEARL IN THE MEDITERRANEAN

CROSSING SARDINIA WITH THE PRICE FAMILY BICYCLE TOUR COMPANY, EXPERIENCEPLUS! A PEARL IN THE MEDITERRANEAN Story and photos by Gregg Bleakney

CROSSING SARDINIA WITH THE PRICE FAMILY BICYCLE TOUR COMPANY, EXPERIENCEPLUS! When Rick Price met Paola Malpezzi at to her hometown of Forli, one of several iter, I was standing across from Rick on a high-school football game in Newport, small villages dotting an old Roman trunk the rooftop terrace of the aging three- Oregon, he never could have predicted road in a sleepy region of eastern Italy. star Hotel La Margherita in Alghero, Italy. that she would be the first and only per- Somehow their unlikely courtship would He was clad in a yellow jersey, matching son with whom he’d fall in love. It was a accidentally pioneer a new category of socks, and black cycling tights that had Friday night in September 1965. Rick was European travel for North Americans — inched up to reveal an early-season tan line. a 17-year-old from a drizzly fishing port guided bicycle tourism. Orange-tinted Oakleys hung from neck- on the Oregon coast. Paola was a popular —— straps under his enormous beard, which exchange student with a return trip ticket 45 years after the couple’s first encoun- was not so long that its character couldn’t be transformed from counterculture to dis- tinguished with a few well-placed hand strokes and a brief closure of the eyes. It was the first morning of a 10-day, 400-mile cycling tour though Sardinia. 12 clients sat in a semicircle nodding through Rick’s briefings for hand signals and daily procedures. Their attentiveness was just an exercise in civility. Save for Jane from Victoria, Australia, they were all repeat customers. During the past two decades, the members of this particular group had clocked 84 tours with Rick’s company, ExperiencePlus!, and they’d heard his safety shtick before. Looking down on Alghero from La Margherita’s crown, its brightly colored Catalan architecture, plazas, and maze of alleyways seemed patched together like a Cubist-inspired Legoland attraction. I’d spent the previous evening strolling the 16th-century city wall that edged along the teardrop blue Mediterranean Sea. It was May, and the tourist horde had yet to arrive. Fishing boats anchored to seaweed- coated cannonballs lulled in the harbor. Italian lovers whispered libidinously under dimly-lit stone archways. Children skipped across Piazza Sulis and giggled as they stuffed gelato cone wrappers down the muzzles of Spanish cannons. There were glitzier accommodations outside of Alghero’s center, but Rick wasn’t interested in those. His decision was not based on price — these clients could all afford a five-star tab. It was because the hotel’s roof, with its faded plastic golf turf flooring and chipped railings, had the best view in town. It was also the most convenient base camp from which to explore the city on foot, straight from the lobby entrance. There was no need to rely on guides or a shuttle service. Rick told me later that afternoon, “My cycling tours have never been about luxury accommodations or fancy bikes but rather designed on a belief that travel should be about ser- endipity and the freedom to explore one’s curiosity. And that’s why certain people keep coming back.” Sardinian solitude. Just because it’s an organized tour doesn’t mean it’s always group time. The safety meeting adjourned and cus-

12 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 13 tomers descended to their rooms to prepare for the day’s ride. Rick was taking in the vista. He looked at ease, perhaps because he didn’t always have time to enjoy these quiet moments. This was his first tour with ExperiencePlus! since selling the company. He’d been hired to assist with rider support, the itinerary, and interpretive details. Monica, the new company co-owner (along with her sister Maria Elena) bee-lined out of the elevator and handed him a neatly organized staff agenda with instructions to mark the day’s route with chalk arrows. Although she had only recently purchased the company, she was no stranger to its operation or the eccentricities of its found- er. “Okay babbo (dad), I’ll see you at lunch. Ciao,” she said with a kiss on the cheek. Rick’s gaze returned to the cityscape. He cracked a slight smile. In the salty breeze, his white beard bowed back as if it were a Meeting of the minds. Daily map meetings are about more than just logistics. ski jump, with Jerry Garcia giving points for style. Paola’s hometown for the weekend. They we planned, so we quit after a few hours —— bought two clunker bicycles that had been and hitchhiked home.” By 1968, Rick had traveled to Italy to spray-painted silver, pumped up the tires, The failed attempt only fueled the cou- visit Paola. They were engaged later that and strapped luggage to the racks. Rick ple’s wanderlust. During the next two year and married in 1969, two months remembered, “We quickly discovered that years, they blurred the line between study after he enrolled at University of Pavia riding a loaded bike was hard … and that and travel, driving a beat-up Volkswagen in Lombardy. In the spring of that year, you get tired after a while. We also realized camper bus all over Europe, North Africa, the two of them decided to bike back to that the trip was going to take longer than and the Sahara Desert. They lived in the

12 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 13 Port of call. Sardinia offers the sailor of the Mediterranean many delightful bays and harbors in which to set anchor or dock.

bus while wintering in Ireland, where 1971, the now-seasoned travelers pedaled barren coastline before intersecting with Paola wrote her thesis and Rick nursed a away from Paola’s graduation ceremony Bosa, a palm-lined outpost at the mouth case of hepatitis he had contracted from an near Pisa toward Florence. They cycled of the island’s only navigable river. Next, infected needle in a public health clinic in over the Apennine Mountains and enthu- the road tilted east, topping out after 1,000 Morocco. After Paola finished her degree, siastically rolled into Paola’s hometown of feet onto a plateau and finishing at a small, they decided to move back to U.S. so Forli four days later. family-run guest house. For the next nine that Rick could complete his studies at —— days, the itinerary followed a similar pat- the University of Oregon, but not before The first 45 kilometers of the Sardinia tern, dipping and rising back and forth attempting their bike trip again. In June tour twisted south from Alghero along a between coastal and inland communities.

14 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 15 At dinner, riders received a map and information sheet for the following day. The sheets included daily highlights, suggested eateries, cultural and natural history bits, Ride Across America! and difficult loop-ride extensions. Missing were start and stop times for the group and spreadsheet tables with turn-by-turn mileage instructions. After organizing some of his initial tours, Price discarded these traditional navigation methods and adopted chalk arrow hashmarks. “I got tired of chasing people and trying to keep a group together,” he said. “My customers didn’t want to ride together any- way, especially as groups got bigger.” Jeff and Jane, an Australian-American couple living in Lucca, Italy, have each logged three trips with ExperiencePlus!. Over a glass of the local Malvasia dessert wine in our hotel near the small town of Tresnuraghes, Jeff revealed, “The chalk arrow markers allow us to do our own thing within an organized-tour framework. Celebrating 15 years Ride the entire tour We can enjoy the day’s ride at our own of Excellence! or just a few days pace without committing to a group time- line. That’s really why we keep doing these trips.” Throughout the tour, I observed par- 800-971-2453 ticipants exploring the island on their own www.crossroadscycling.com terms. Ellen from Washington, DC, opted to test herself on the first day with a 2,500- foot bonus climb that rocketed above the 18th coastal road. John, a doctor from Boulder, frequented gelaterias along the route, fine- tuning his Italian with the locals. Chris from Huntington Beach often pushed the pace, rewarding his swift pedaling at the end of the day with a few cold beverages, a book, and a cozy lounge chair at the hotel. Don and Jane from Seattle were early risers and the first to hit the road each morning. I caught up to them on day six snapping JULY 31, 2011 photos at an overlook above Orgosolo, In Richfield, Ohio, on the rim of the a place formerly dubbed “Village of the Cuyahoga Valley National Park Murderers” because of its reputation as the 10, 25, 50 & 100 mile routes, fully supported hub for the island’s bandits and bad guys. with SAG wagons and repair truck. I took my time dropping into Orgosolo Optional Horrendous Hills — for the really tough! and spotted Price on sweep duty in my Great water stop refreshments rearview mirror. He interpreted a handful Pulled Pork/corn on the cob lunch of the hundreds of murals painted with Hundreds of volunteers will serve, Century riders have a full dinner at Taverne of Richfield sharp political commentary between the SAG and support you! Live music town’s weathered wooden doors and win- Call 330.659.3300 for a brochure or Massages, bike giveaway & riding apparel dow shutters. email us at [email protected] Presented by the Richfield Chamber of Commerce Limited to first 2500 bicyclists Tagging along with Price during his sweep duty provided a fascinating study in New Routes, Same Fun. Popular Lunches Return! human interaction. From Orgosolo’s plaza rubberneckers to an old man selling veg- Register online at www.sweetcornride.com etables from the back of his three-wheeled While in the area, ride the 150-mile Towpath in the Cuyahoga Valley National Park Ape truck, nobody along the route who from Cleveland, through Akron to Canton Ohio. Go one way and take the train back. displayed signals of a worthy story was

14 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 15 spared Price’s inquisition. defend you to the end.” For as long as she could remember, —— Monica said, her dad has made these chatty At lunch on the final day of the trip, pit stops. “It’s interesting to watch because Rick explained the choice to move back these are typically reserved people just to Italy in 1972, just nine months after doing their own thing, and along comes my relocating to the U.S, “To steal a line from dad, obviously not from the area, biking Steinbeck’s Travels with Charley. It was straight at them with this huge beard that February, and it was raining, and it was Oregon.” He recalled lying in bed one night trying to figure out how to make it happen. “I was flipping through the back of Harpers and The Atlantic. There were ads for these exotic trips — sailboat charters Adriatic Sea in the Caribbean and Villa rentals on the ITALY Mediterranean — and it occurred to me CORSICA that I could do the same thing for a cycling vacation to Italy.” With a marketing budget of $300, Rick Tyrrhenian and Paola drove down the West Coast in a Sea borrowed Datsun pickup, putting up flyers SARDINIA on college campuses advertising a bike trip across Italy. 25 people signed up for the Mediterranean Sea two-week, $245 tour. They flew to Italy, SICILY bought a fleet of four-speed bicycles with Ionian hard plastic saddles from racing legend Sea TUNISIA Mario Vicini, and fine-tuned the route they discovered after Paola’s graduation. By the end of the summer, the tours had paid for can be pretty intimidating. Then he starts Rick and Paola’s plane tickets, bikes, and speaking in perfect Italian, and they all end expenses leaving $2,000 left over to stay in up loving him.” Europe and travel. traveling in Europe and with higher educa- I asked Price what he liked to talk For the next 12 years, they dabbled tion and teaching in the U.S. It wasn’t until about. He responded, “In Italy, I always with leading more bicycle tours but they 1985 that they seriously began leading ask the locals where to eat. They will ultimately fell into a pattern of alternating trips in Europe again. By 1989, the business grew to include five different Italian tours and 100 clients. In the early 1990s, customers started asking for more destina- tions, and Rick responded by expanding to Costa Rica, Greece, France, and Spain. The company experienced 50-percent yearly revenue growth all through the late 1990s. Monica and Maria Elena spent their high- school and college summers in Europe, helping Rick develop new tour routes. In 2004, when Lance Armstrong was in his prime, the company had 18 vans and 40 tour leaders on the road at the same time during the Tour de France. Armstrong’s success and a strengthen- ing Euro helped buoy the company. But by 2006, Armstrong had wore out and so did Rick Price. In fall 2007, sales were down, and Price saw black clouds on the horizon as the current recession approached. He told the girls, “I just don’t have the energy to pull this off any more. If you want to buy the business, now is the time. I’ll cut staff, sell the office building in Italy, and get the cash flowing again.” They took him Howdy stranger. A funny juxtaposition — American on a bike, European on a horse. up on the offer. Monica gave up a career

16 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 17 The deep blue sea. Sardinia is famous for its beautiful sparkling waters and its long sandy beaches. UTAH COME RIDE WITH US IN AMERICA’S MOST SCENIC RIDING PLAYGROUND M B We Specialize in Small Group Tours Catered to Your Needs. O * Offering half day, full day, 2, 3 or 5 day trips or create a custom tour of your dreams! U I * Rides for all fitness and skill levels....instruction available upon request N K * Servicing SW Utah, including Gooseberry Mesa, Zion, and ST George areas T * Choose from a simple outing to a professional orgainzed multi-day tour with I lodging options, bike rentals and more... A *We offer great prices and our guides are all area locals I N N G WWW.UTAHMOUNTAINBIKINGADVENTURES.COM ADVENTURES INFO & RESERVATIONS PLEASE CALL - 435-635-2169

REGISTEREGISTERR TODAY TODAY /// /// BIKE BIKEMMSMSMINNINNESOTAESOTA.O.ORRGG /// /// 800 800 582 582 5296 5296 bike MS 2011 STAR TRIBUNE TRAM RIDE ////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// THE ULTIMATE MINNESOTA ROAD TRIP 5 DAYS /// 300 MILES /// JULY 24-29, 2011 USBN3122 UifSjefBdspttNjooftpub ROCHESTER | OWATONNA | AUSTIN | LANESBORO | WINONA

16 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 17 in international development to manage daily operations in Europe, and Maria Elena completed her master’s of business administration degree with the intention of running the business from the U.S. “Nothing else we tried outside of ExperiencePlus! was as exciting or interesting. The company had become a passionate lifestyle for us,” Monica said. —— An MIT study examining long-term business sustainability reported that only 30 percent of family-run companies survive second-generation succession. The study stated that a family firm’s succession value and longevity can be positively affected if offspring are willing to carry on the tradi- tions of the first generation while reacting to changes within the marketplace. Watching Monica lead ground opera- Sardinian sun protection. The ExperiencePlus! group enjoys shade, snacks, and a drink. tions in Sardinia, I could sense that she was navigating a tough and uncharted course had gone out of business. The resort owner hotel with people who know how to make between maintaining her parents’ original forgot that the tour group was arriving and their guests feel welcome in a few days,” vision and adapting to a modern customer lectured Rick for cutting through the park- he said. I never heard any of the tour par- base. On the third night of the trip, she ing lot on his bicycle. Rick was still bent ticipants complain about the new hotel in booked a brand-new four-star resort with out of shape in his room later that evening. Putzu Idu. In fact, they all seemed to love a swimming pool along an idyllic pebbled “They call this four-star and there’s the place. beach in Putzu Idu because Rick’s favorite not even a runner under the bed? What a Another debate between the Price gen- farmhouse-style accommodation in the area scam. You’ll see a real four-star Sardinian erations was over the use of digital naviga-

GOBA-23: Let’s Put All the Pieces Together!

18 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 19 tion devices. While driving the support —— “Hey, guys, look at this,” he shouted van one afternoon, Monica explained that On the last day of the trip, after shut- over the engine noise. “The Romans are ExperiencePlus! had just run its first tour tling customers to the airport and cross- still stealing wood from Sardinia just like with one guide and every customer using ing back to the Italian mainland, Monica they did thousands of years ago. But now a GPS system. “I think a GPS as opposed parked the van at the Livorno ferry load- it’s for making pizzas instead of hot baths.” to a traditional road book is absolutely a ing zone. She had decided to send her dad Then he trundled off into Italy. It was a part of our future. They can help to reduce off to research a new trip plan in southern fitting farewell, I thought, and one that no trip prices, make self-guided tours pos- Italy. Rick pulled his bike from the rack, cyclist would ever find in the spiritless pix- sible, and open the doors to new customers made a few adjustments to the panniers, els of a GPS track. Some things will never … who also happen to be asking for them said his good-byes, and eased away. He change. right now,” she said. Rick was sitting in the stopped to take a picture just before disap- passenger seat, lightly shaking his head, pearing between a line-up of freight trucks Gregg Bleakney is an avid cyclotourist, writer, and photographer. You can find out more about him and his with a paper map of the island in hand. carrying payloads of firewood. latest adventures at www.gbleakney.com.

MARCH 26 - APRIL 1

352.224.8602 www.bikeflorida.org

     

 





18 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 19 pride myself on reading between radar, it would still be like many other Zsophia Fodor, the other guide for our the lines. But apparently I’m not as European cycling sojourns, with plenty of group of 20 North American travelers, was good at reading direct statements. miles, long days in the saddle, and hills. also trim and strong. No academic slouch I’m not sure how else to explain Besides, we booked it through the U.S.- either, she was close to completing her that when a tour advertises itself as based Bike Tours Direct, and the company’s doctorate degree in physics. Even so, my a “wine and bike tour” instead of a “bike owner, Jim Johnson, would be on the tour assumptions about what kind of trip this andI wine tour,” I should have realized that too. would be turned out to be misdirected. the emphasis was going to be a bit different Other clues led me astray. After arriving What I discovered is that if you want than your average European cycling trip. in Budapest, I met 28-year-old guide Gábor to go to Europe to rack up the miles, push Even so, it was easy to believe that Závodi, the owner of Vinociped and an yourself to the limit, and drink nothing but though this trip would take us to Hungary, uber-fit young guy with a master’s degree water, you should pick a different trip. If, which is a little off the usual cycling tour in economics. His 27-year-old sweetheart, however, you think you’ve done enough of those miles-for-the-sake-of-miles trips, maybe you’re ready for something a little mellower. That is exactly what this trip turned out to be. No, that’s wrong. Mellow isn’t quite the word. Let’s say intensely laid back but with whatever the equivalent Hungarian expression of joie de vivre might be. This is a trip that lives large, with gusto. On Vinociped’s nine-day Hungarian tour of the area north Hung(a)ry in Style of Lake Balaton, there was no emphasis not representative of the group. Most of on speed. No centuries to knock off. No us were serious recreational cyclists. Nor by Colleen Friesen crack-of-dawn starts. No fill-you-up-on- would we have been content — like John carrot-sticks-and-apples mentality. In fact, was — to spend so much time riding in the ble-duty as a nightcap. Pálinka, at 40 to 50 one of our fellow travelers, a 73-year old van. But it was the kind of trip that anyone, percent alcohol, is a uniquely Hungarian Californian named John Ryan (who swore at pretty much any level, could take on. brandy, usually distilled from plums or he hadn’t ridden a bike in over 15 years), There are a few more things to consider, apricots. said, “Now, if you would just skip the because for a trip like this you need to To be fair, we weren’t served pálinka at cycling, you’d have a pretty good trip.” His think in different terms. Let’s start with the breakfast on this trip. However, we met a view got a lot of laughs two staples of a decent day in Hungary — number of Hungarians who swore it was and was certainly pork and pálinka. Pálinka is a way to fortify the only way to start the day. I can attest yourself before breakfast. Pálinka is lovely that there is definitely a different focus on for lunch. Pálinka is one’s cycling after a hefty shot or two of also a great start this brandy in the midday August heat — to dinner especially and does after eat- dou- ing a plate piled high with pork complemented The real art of the bicycle is for each to have its purpose. by as much wine as you like. Which brings us to the other Hungarian specialty — pork, or pig, as in, I felt like one. As we’d already discovered by spending a few days in Budapest, Hungary is a carnivore’s dream — or an The perfect marriage between humanity and machinery. arterial nightmare. There’s nothing like a big plate of sausages served up with a side of ham to fill your belly. You can worry about your heart health when you get home. While you’re here, your name is Porkahontas. I will skip the preamble of how the trip began. Let’s start with the fourth day, as it’s one of the hillier days and indicative of the spirit of this tour. We left behind the easy paved cycling paths along the northern shoreline of Europe’s largest lake, along with our usual distances of 40 or 50 kilometers. Instead, we headed for the hills of the Balaton Uplands. This particular day started without bicycles. Instead, we left our courtyard breakfast area at the Hotel Borbaratok in Badacsonytomaj to walk a couple kilome- American Made. Oregon Made. Handmade. ters up a steep hill. It was sweaty work to arrive at the Róza Szegedy House for www.co-motion.com some morning tastings, including Urmos, a vermouth made from boiled wine flavored with basil, cinnamon, wormwood and other herbs — a distinctive and pleasant aperitif. Those of you familiar with wine tastings know that the usual protocol is to swirl, sniff, taste, and spit; although some claim this process is akin to wine abuse. My husband, Kevin Redl, is a wine swirler extraor- dinaire. As a recently retired manager of a Vancouver, British Columbia, wine store, and with his level-three certificate from the Wine Spirits and Education Trust, he knows this grape thing pretty well. Miles of rolling, rural One of the conditions of his prior roads with scenery employment was signing a contract swear- ranging from farmland and forest ing that he would always spit. Considering to the nautical flavor that he sometimes tasted as many as 200 of the Lake Erie wines in a day, that was probably a good shoreline. Wineries, Underground thing, especially when operating heavy Railroad history, machinery like a cash register. Apparently, art galleries and Kevin was feeling the relief from that con- spectacular parks featuring Lake Erie tractual obligation. I guess very few in beaches, kayaking, our group had ever heard of such a silly hiking, bird-watching requirement, because that spit bucket and more. Complete an intense workout www.backroadsandbeachesohio.com didn’t see a lot of action that morning. I’m or enjoy a few days www.visitloraincounty.com not sure if it’s because it was downhill or of scenery, culture, 800.334.1673 due to the wine swishing in our loosened cuisine, wine and touring. veins, but the trip back to our bikes was much chattier than the jaunt up. We cycled for about 10 kilometers. It

22 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 23 was hillier and starting to become hot. base and teeter-tottered to great acclaim Gábor led us to Szentbékkálla — the from the rest of us. More fools rushed up Stone Sea — a park area strewn with odd where angels fear to tread before we got boulders. These bizarre rock formations back on our bikes to start our assault on a # evolved during the Miocene Era when few more hills before lunch. thermal springs erupted, hardening and At the Eszterházy Wine Cellar, we cementing the for- sampled a half-dozen mer Pannonian Sea area wines, including bed’s white sand POLAND pino gris, elder blos- into stone mass. UKRAINE som cuvée, and mus- Eons of wind ero- CZECH catel. The echoes of sion left behind SLOVAKIA our increasingly loud a compilation of laughter are probably outcroppings. The AUSTRIA still reverberating in one named Ingo-Ko, HUNGARY that cellar as we prac- or Swaying Rock, ticed our bastardized looks like one of ROMANIA Hungarian word for those Looney Tunes CROATIA cheers, “Egeszegedre!” desert formations, Unfortunately, our BOSNIA the kind that are SERBIA version sounded more balanced on top of like, “Agha Shaggy each other in precarious ways and result in Dog!” but our intentions were good. We flattened cartoon characters. headed up to a hall with tables filled with Gábor grinned and asked for volunteers immense platters of liverwurst, ham, pork to climb up and help sway the rock. David chunks, bread, sausages, peppers and Flower, 58, a red-and-salt-haired engi- cheeses, and, of course, pitchers of wine. neer, stepped forward. Morgan Fraley, 66, But the piece de resistance was a casse- one of the seven riders from Tennessee’s role dish filled with chilled, creamy bacon Chattanooga Bicycle Club, was next. Steve fat replete with suspended little lardons " Friedman, 59, a lawyer from Chicago and of fried bacon chunks. Slim little Sophie " his cycling buddy, 66-year-old retiree Ron slathered thick cuts of white bread with !" Schwarz, along with my 52-year-old wino this delightful spread. I swear I saw her husband, were ready, too. They started up swoon with happiness while the five-piece # # the sharp hill to reach the top of the rock. band serenaded us with festive gypsy soul. The guys stood on the garage-sized flat I barely watched the band. I was mesmer- # ! boulder that sits atop a much-too-small ized by Sophie’s bread. Seriously, you couldn’t have cut that fat with Drano. It was extreme. The fifth day was my favorite. We were leaving Köveskál to pedal 55 kilometers en route to Tótvázsony. It sounded like something we could just knock off in a hurry. # But there were 20 of us, and although Jim Johnson and the six other keeners from the aforementioned Chattanooga Bicycle Club were always ready to roll, it still took a while to corral a group that size. It was actually one of the things I start- " ed to enjoy. Once I suspended the inclina- !" tion to zoom and push, it was nice to idle along and chat. I hung out with everyone eventually, including the Jarays. Ken, 55, was a lawyer, and his wife Sandy, 54, coun- sels children near their home in Manitou Springs, Colorado. By end of the trip, the four of us shared a lovely dinner together in Budapest where they watched in amaze- ment as l polished off a huge dish of goose livers cooked in hot fat. Soups on. No thanks, I’ll have the goulash. It also was fun to ride beside Carol

22 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 23 Shankel from Seattle, especially when I quiet roads lined with poplars. The end crest of a long hill that fell away from discovered this tireless rider was 74 years of August felt like the perfect time for this our parked bicycles. Rows of grapevines old. When I told her she was an inspira- ride. We enjoyed the last blast of sum- plunged down from our feet toward the tion, she was clear in her reply: “I don’t mer’s heat, with temperatures between 85 vista of the shimmering expanse of Lake want to be an inspiration. I want to be a and 95 degrees, while also enjoying the Balaton far, far below. There was a giant player.” She didn’t need to worry. She’s first turning of the leaves. We had time to outdoor oven redolent with wonderful, both. stop to take photos of the endless fields of smoky smells. Courtyard tables, festive corn, the yards ringed with hollyhocks, with royal blue umbrellas, sat next to a oleander, roses and black-eyed susans, and small sloping area in the deep shade of old ubiquitous pots of geraniums. Not to men- apple trees. It was a little slice of paradise. tion that the cycling path was dedicated I wanted to throw myself under the dap- to — wait for it — cyclists. Considering pled light of the orchard. But first we had it had been only 20 years since the end of to do a wine tasting. Of course — what the az átkos 40 év (the accursed 40 years) was I thinking? of the communist regime, things have pro- Seabo led us into the cool cellar. The gressed very quickly. sweat chilled on my back as we sipped At the end of the day, I wrote in my some of his signature organic wines sur- journal, “Today was nearly perfect.” I rounded by the unmistakable aroma of couldn’t find anything to indicate why I wine cellars everywhere — that lovely didn’t pronounce it complete perfection. blend of fermenting grapes and the dusty Perhaps it was only my fear of tempting fate with such a declaration. There was no doubt that we had officially left the easy days of rolling countryside behind us. These were not extreme hills by any stretch, but for this West Coast Canadian, the heat added a Rolling along. Hungary’s quiet roadways. new dimension. I amused myself up the last grind by trying to count the salty We cruised through villages made up tidelines on my gloves, legs, and arms. of families with tractors in their drive- Soon enough, the road changed to a dusty ways, past fields of golden corn, and tree- track. We entered Gergeley Wine Cellar, filled gardens stuffed with fat pears and run by yet another young entrepreneur. pudgy figs. Women still wore aprons here. We were starting to see a trend. One could only wish they could convince It looked like capitalism and its oppor- their Speedo-wearing, ditch-shoveling tunities had been embraced by the genera- husbands to don the odd one, too. And tion that came of age during the change frankly, older gentlemen wearing only a of regimes. Seabo Gergo was a friend of Speedo whilst cycling is a memory I’d like Gábor’s, and like him, had the same can- A few winks. Wine and cycling will do that. to delete. No, I take that back. It makes do enthusiasm and love for what he was me smile to even write it. doing. He greeted us as we staggered into cool smell of rock. The gold-medal win- When you’re not head-down and going his estate. ning cabernet sauvignon rosé was excep- for it, there are more chances to hear the We parked our bikes at the left of the tional, a classic dry rose with young, fresh birds and distant dogs as you ride on gravel driveway. The drive was on the red fruit aromas of strawberry and rasp-

specialist for bike tours in Central Europe Visit Central Europe – a paradise for cycling Surprising density of ancient castles Vienna to Prague Greenways & fairy–tale chateaux Salzburg to Prague Beautiful and varied countryside Vienna to Krakow Amber Trail Excellent network of paved backroads Budapest to Krakow Amber Trail Quality accommodation

Easy and convenient self-guided tours Passau to Vienna Danube Trail Guided tours with local guides Vienna to Budapest Danube Trail 8-day to 10-day tours Prague to Dresden

Visit www.topbicycle.com for trip descriptions, dates and prices. For a free brochure, email us [email protected]

Czech Republic Slovakia Austria Hungary Germany Poland

24 ADVENTUREinzerat_Top_bicycle.indd CYCLIST 1MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 15.2.2008 16:51:31 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 25 berry. The chardonnay, czerszegi füszeres, furmint, blaufränkisch, and merlot were AND, BY THE WAY dry and crisp. The Furmint aszu, this Ibis Heroes near Heroes Square. Like the region’s version of its more famous cousin n For more information on bicycle touring in rest of the worldwide Ibis chain, it’s functional, Tokaji aszu, was sweet and delicious. Hungary, contact Jim Johnson at biketours clean, and well-situated. After your trip, if you’re Kevin helped lead the group in swirl- direct.com. ready to experience more flare and character, ing and snorting with aplomb. We were check into the lovely Gerlóczy, a 15-room bou- becoming polished tasters, although the n I’d highly recommend arriving in Budapest tique hotel built in 1892. Visit gerloczy.hu. spit buckets were yet again remarkably a couple days early and staying as long as empty given the rather heavy-handed possible after the cycling is done. Budapest is n Travel west to Hévíz, home of Gyogy-to, the pouring. home to more than 100 hot springs. Spa cul- world’s largest thermal lake. Underground hot It was dazzling back in the sunshine ture flourished during the 150 years of Turkish springs that feed this massive lake, resulting in where the tables were now set with fizzing occupation and is now a way of life. Check out the complete replacement of water every three seltzer bottles and Olaszrizling, the perfect Gellért Baths, which opened in 1918, at gel- and a half days. Soak your aching body in the complement to the forthcoming feast. We lertbath.com. thermal waters while floating among purple gathered around the outdoor oven as the lilies. Don’t forget to get a massage at the lid came off the huge trough-like roasting n Vinociped (vinociped.hu) books the Hotel Danubius Hotel Gellert: danubius hotels.com. dish. It revealed whacks of wild pig, gar- gantuan ham hocks, potatoes, red peppers, filled with figs, yellow and blue plums, ing European tours such as Gábor’s has carrots, onions, and peas basting and min- raspberries, apples, and pears. Therein lies become much more than that. “I’ve gained gling to create a savory blend of pork- fat the intrinsic joy of cycling – I’m nearly a friend,” he said. heaven. always hungry and ready to eat. In spite Gábor, too, stood to thank us all for Logos and designs on all our cycling of all these amazing meals, near the end making the trip fun, hamming it up into jerseys stretched and morphed into twist- of the trip I wrote in my journal that I felt an Oscar-worthy acceptance speech thank- ed new shapes as our bellies expanded. trimmer and stronger each day. How in the ing his parents, friends, and family. The Chunks of glistening ham and all those world did that work? lovely and ever-tolerant Zsophia laughed decadent juices were mopped up with Our trip started and ended in Budapest, and rolled her eyes as he waxed eloquent. thick bread. Groaning abounded. though the actual cycling part of the tour But then Zsophia stood up. What is A few of us stepped around the old dog began and finished in Veszprém, a gor- it about imperfectly spoken English that snoozing between the tables and rolled geous old town about an hour and a half makes it feel more truthful? She didn’t our porky butts onto the grass under the west of that city. Our last dinner together speak as loudly as the men, and the room trees. Blankets were handed out. I couldn’t was like coming home. Our trip began at fell quiet as everyone listened to her richly quite believe it — a bike trip with a nap this same hotel, the ancient and beautiful accented words. time. The breeze rustled through the apple Oliva Pension, but even that seemed long “I feel from the heart, this love ... And leaves. The air was bouquet with sugges- ago. So much had happened. Friendships I hope you hold with you a small piece tions of apple, a hint of porky smoke, and had formed. Pork and pálinka were of Hungary in your hearts and memories a redolent bottom note of earth — like a consumed. Pedals were pushed, castles from this time we spent together,” she wine the gods would make of their finest explored, and so many meals were shared. said. August day. There were speeches. Jim Johnson Eventually, we were roused to cycle started with some laughs, then lifted his Colleen Friesen wears black … a nod to her Mennonite roots and how well the colour travels. She hates leaving again. The last few hills before our home at glass to toast Gábor and Zsophia with our home and loves to go on a trip. When she’s not writing, the Hotel Bakony felt like proper penance now-polished version of “Agha Shaggy you’ll find her on the way to Somewhere Else, eager to after such an indulgence. Our rooms were Dog.” Heads nodded when he explained begin her next adventure of self-propelled activities like cycling, walking, or kayaking. hugeTA adand 7,375x2,375.qxd:TA the grounds a veritable ad Eden7,125x2,375.qxd that his 1/25/11 business relationship10:10 AM Pageof promot 1 - A D V E N T U R E V A C A T I O N S Bicycling & Hiking Adventures for those Passionate about Bicycling & Hiking Glacier • Yellowstone • Colorado • Canadian Rockies • New Mexico Bryce/Zion/Grand Canyon • Pacific Northwest • California Coast/Sierras South TIMBERLINE ADVENTURES Dakota’s Black Hills • Texas Hill Country • Kentucky’s Bluegrass Country 7975 E. Harvard, #J, Michigan’s Shoreline • Wisconsin’s Door County • Minnesota’s Land-of-Lakes Denver, CO 80231 • New England’s North Country • # 2011 Odyssey: Canada’s Maritimes/Nova Scotia, Cape Breton, PEI # 1•800•417•2453 Inn-To-Inn, Fully-Supported www.timbertours.com E-mail: T I M B E R L I N E A D V E N T U R E S [email protected]

24 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 25 Bicycle Tour Operators / Advertisers Listed below are the bicycle tour companies that advertise in Adventure Cyclist. Besides supporting this magazine and Adventure Cycling Association with advertising dollars, they’re willing to invest money to be seen by Adventure Cyclist readers. We can’t necessarily vouch for them, but feel their support makes them worthy of highlighting here. A comprehensive listing of all bike tour operators we know of is available online at www.adventurecycling.org/cyp.

Adventure Cycling Association Classic Adventures Great Explorations PAC Tour pactour.com www.adventurecycling.org/ www.classicadventures.com www.great-explorations.com (262) 736-2453. tours, (800) 755-2453. (800) 777-8090. (800) 242-1825. Pedal & Sea Adventures Adventure South CrossRoads Historical Trails Cycling www.pedalandseaadventures. www.advsouth.co.nz www.crossroadscycling.com www.historicaltrailscycling. com, (877) 777-5699. (866) 479-9827. (800) 971-2453. com, (402) 499-0874. America By Bicycle Cycle America Independent Tourist Scamp “n” Rascal scampnras www.abbike.com www.cycleamerica.com independenttourist.com cal.com, (610) 317-9611. (888) 797-7057. (800) 245-3263. (866) 269-9913. Siciclando Around Wisconsin Bicycle Cycle Canada International Bike Tours www.siciclando.com Tours aroundwisbike.com www.cyclecanada.com ibike.org/ibike (800) 881-0484. (920) 427-6086. (800) 214-7798. (206)767-0848. Senior Cycling Tours Bike on Tours Cycle Macedonia International Selkirk Loop www.seniorcycling.com www.bikeontours.on.ca. cyclemacedonia.com Bike Rides selkirkloop.org/ (540) 668-6307. wacinid, (888) 823-2626. Bike Tours Direct Cycling Escapes Sockeye Cycle Co. www.biketoursdirect.com www.cyclingescapes.com Iron Donkey www.cyclealaska.com (877) 462-2423. (714) 267-4591. www.irondonkey.com (877) 292-4154. +44 2890 813200. Blue Marble Travel Dakota Bike Tours Timberline Adventures www.bluemarble.org www.dakotabiketours.com Island Cycle Tours www.timbertours.com (215) 923-3788. (605) 359-5672. www.islandcycletours.com (800) 417-2453. +61 (0)3 6228 0126. Bubba’s Pampered Pedalers Discover Vietnam Topbicycle www.bubbaspampered discovervietnam.com Leaf Cycle Holidays www.topbicycle.com pedalers.com (800) 613-0390. www.leaf-cycling-holidays.com +420 (519) 513 745. (321) 759-3433. +44 (0)1372 383199. Experience Plus! Utah Mountain Biking Carolina Tailwinds www.experienceplus.com Links Bike Tours Adventures utahmountain www.carolinatailwinds.com (800) 685-4565. www.linksbiketours.com. bikingadventures.com, (435) (888) 251-3206. 635-2169. Freewheeling Adventures Mountainside Bike Tours Cascade Huts www.freewheeling.ca www.mdmountainside.com Vacation Bicycling www.cascadehuts.com (800) 672-0775. (800) 425-2067. www.vacationbicycling.com (971) 322-3638. (404) 909-8034. Gerhard’s Bicycle Odysseys Otto Europabiking Charleston Bicycle Tours since1974.com europabiking.com Veloroutes des Bluets charlestonbicycletours.com (800) 966-2402. +49 (0) 9824/923735. www.veloroute-bleuets.qc.ca (800) 408-1830. (418) 668-4541. Christian Adventures WomanTours womantours.com www.christianadventures (800) 247-1444. .org, (866) 796-4453. WorldVentures www.worldventures.com (972) 805-5100.

Members of an Adventure Cycling TransAm group take a breather at the visitors center on Lolo Pass on the Montana/ Idaho border. g r eg sip l e

26 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG greg siple Off-the-Grid and On the Road: Touring Alaska’s by Geoff Kirsch photos by Libby Sterling Prince of Wales Island Off-the-Grid and On the Road: Touring Alaska’s Prince of Wales Island When I first proposed taking a 10-day my saddle to the seat post — several times. you consider what road bicycle touring bike trip to Prince of Wales Island — a I’ve flipped canoes, kayaks, snowmobiles, entails in Southeast Alaska, an area noted 2,600-square-mile hunk of wilderness in and somehow managed to fall overboard for its natural beauty and abundant wild- the Alaska Panhandle — my wife gave me tying a friend’s skiff to the pier. I once life — not to mention its near absence of one condition: as long as I promised not destroyed a ski boot in a way that made roads. Even in Juneau, our state capital, the to die. the rental shop guy remark, “Wow, never road ends less than 40 miles out of town. If this sounds overly dramatic, let me explain. For one, I’m a novice cyclist. I only picked Morning broke cold and gray with up the hobby five years ago after moving to Alaska from New York City. Before that, mist lifting off the trees as though the everyone I knew who rode a bike told a story about getting clipped by a taxicab, mountains were on fire. creamed by a car door, or, in one particularly gruesome incident, knocked comatose by a delivery van’s side mirror. Call me crazy, but seen that before.” Until I did it again, two And yet, by cobbling together ferry that didn’t sound appealing. weeks later. routes, as well as sections of municipal Second, I wouldn’t characterize my Of course, in Alaska, any outdoor activ- roads, logging roads, and U.S. Forest physical condition as being “peak.” I’m ity involves significant potential for dan- Service routes, Southeast Alaska possesses a 2XL to begin with, even during the gym ger. Things here can go very wrong, very some incredible, unique, and nearly undis- rat period of my early 20s. Add 10 years fast, especially when you’re talking about covered opportunities for touring. and I won’t say how many pounds, cour- bears and hypothermia. Preparedness goes Of these, Prince of Wales (POW), the tesy of Alaska’s long, dark winters — a a long way, but luck plays a big part, too. fourth largest island in the U.S. (after seven-month period I call “nacho season.” So does stupidity — that’s why my wife Hawaii, Kodiak Island, and Puerto Rico), Plus, for the past few years, it’s also entailed was worried. represents the best. Most of Southeast toting our toddler, an excellent excuse for I should probably also mention that I’d Alaska is vertical, with glacier-carved sum- slower paces, shortened distances, and fre- never been bicycle touring before. Sure, I’d mits rising straight out of the ocean. By quent juice/pee-pee breaks. logged miles and trained daily (well, semi- contrast, POW boasts varied topography Then there’s my contentious relation- daily) in preparation, making sure to go — gentle slopes and alpine meadows, in ship with gear. During the past half- out in particularly nasty weather. But as I’d addition to the usual steep, dense forests decade, I’ve lost oars, splintered trekking soon learn, there’s a big difference between and narrow, crannied shorelines. Moreover, poles, and snapped the bolt that affixes practice and the real thing, especially when nearly 2,800 miles of roadway crisscross

BICYCLING TOURS FOR

P’tit train du Nord SENIORS 50+ Central Florida

Allegheny Passage, PA C&O Canal, Washington, DC

“Its not how far nor how fast, its the pleasure of the journey” www.seniorcycling.com Amish Country, PA Florida Keys.

37419 Branch River Road | Loudoun Heights, VA 20132 | [email protected]

30 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 31 the island. Although much of that remains unmapped, unnamed, and/or impassable, the system also serves the handful of towns Nuts & Bolts: Prince of Wales that are home to island’s approximately 6,000 residents. When to go: Mid-May to mid-September. information at www.fs.fed.us/r10/tongass/ In fact, as of 2010, the U.S. Department June and July tend to be driest, but weather recreation/recreation.shtml. Oh, and don’t of Transportation designated every road can be nasty — or great — at any time. let the bear talk scare you. Hunting has between settlements on the island a National That’s part of the fun. ravaged the island’s ursine population. Just Scenic Byway. As such, the “busiest” of these don’t keep food in your tent. — not counting logging trucks and construc- What to bring: Rain gear and non-cotton tion equipment, I saw maybe five passenger layers that retain warmth when wet. I wore Water: Despite the rain, water can be an vehicles a day — have been freshly graded neoprene kayaking gloves and booties, issue. Bring a filter that works in smaller, and paved. Eventually, they’re all slated to be. although Libby’s SealSkinz nylon gloves shallower streams — these tend to have Anticipating this, recently retired state and socks proved far more watertight. Even fewer spawning/rotting salmon. worker Karla Hart, as a volunteer in service to if you don’t bike in them, consider bringing America for local trail organization SEAtrails, a pair of rubber boots for glopping around Sag options: Hollis Adventure Rentals muskeg, forest, beaches, caves, etc. (www.harentals.com) rents vehicles, kayaks, set about compiling the first comprehensive motorized boats, and incredible array of guide to bicycle touring in Southeast Alaska. Route and maps: We used the map in the gear. Proprietor Darren Lamps has been In addition to maps, elevation profiles, attrac- Prince of Wales visitors’ guide (www.prince known to set, break, and move camp for tions, accommodations, and ferry schedules, ofwalescoc.org; you’ll find hard copies on clients. she also created several multi-day itineraries. the Inter-island Ferry). As of press time, Karla The POW tour was her first. Not only hasn’t published her Southeast bicycle tour- Getting there: Take the inter-island ferry would I have the fruit of Karla’s labors, I’d ing guide; track her progress at seatrails.org. to Hollis (www.interislandferry.com). Alaska have her in person biking right alongside Airlines runs direct flights to Ketchikan from (or often far ahead of) me. Born and raised Services: All available options are listed Seattle and Juneau. The Alaska Marine in Juneau, she also proved adept at rig- in the visitors’ guide. Craig has the most Highway operates ferries to Ketchikan from ging campsite tarps. Without this expertise, restaurants, but Klawock boasts the color- most points in southeast Alaska, as well ful Klawock Diner (housed in an old school as Bellingham, Washington. Find schedule our third companion, photographer Libby bus) and the largest grocery store. Find and fare info at www.dot.state.ak.us/amhs/ Sterling, and I would have been sunk — lit- US Forest Service cabin and campground index.shtml. erally.

TRAVEL-SETWaterproof Bicycle Touring Set

Bike-Tourer model rear 5 Year Warranty panniers including anti- Made in Germany theft device www.ortliebusa.com Travel-Biker rack-top case Ultimate5 Plus handlebar bag, size M All products are also available individually Total Volume 4638 cu.in. (76 L) 100% Nylon Fabric

30 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 31 Which brings me to the harshest real- like taking a cruise operated by New Jersey butchering Red Hot Chili Peppers songs; a ity of cycling in Southeast Alaska — rain. Transit. Accommodations exist, but they’re kid and his grandfather on a “bucket list” The entire region comprises Earth’s largest hardly luxurious. On our ship, the M/V trip; a group of middle-aged Harley riders remaining temperate rain forest. Prince of Matanuska, we could have reserved a three- who couldn’t believe we had fun without Wales receives 120 inches of rainfall annu- berth cabin with private bath for about $100 “burning dinosaurs;” and a British cyclist ally. That’s 100 inches more than the state (in addition to the passenger fare). Like duti- in the midst of riding solo from Fairbanks average and almost twice that of Astoria, to Argentina, who claimed to be afraid Oregon, the third wettest city in the U.S. of camping in undeveloped campgrounds Essentially, I was outfitted as a kayaker because of bears. We hadn’t the heart to with neoprene booties, neoprene gloves, tell him that bears lurk around developed and dry bags. So inclement was the weather campgrounds, too. at certain points, I had to wear ski goggles. While you’ve got to love a bike tour As for bicycle equipment, Karla took a whose first leg includes beer, fries, and road bike with thin tires, front and rear halibut burgers — be careful. Eventually, panniers; Libby opted for a mountain bike you arrive in Ketchikan, where it will with mid-width tires and rear panniers probably be raining, and getting dark. only; and I rocked my usual rig — moun- The eight-mile ride to Ward Lake Three C’s tain bike, fat tires, and, to tote the gear, my Campground would have provided a rude daughter’s trailer. awakening even if I hadn’t been groggy In retrospect, I chose poorly. Chalk the with food and drink. case y g r eene trailer up to thriftiness; panniers and racks Encumbered with panniers for the first are expensive. But you get what you pay for. time, Libby and Karla wobbled a bit but Reaching POW necessitates going quickly got the hang of it. My disembarka- through Ketchikan. We took the scenic ful Alaskans, we opted for sleeping bags in tion didn’t go nearly as smoothly. True to route, loading our bikes onto an Alaska the solarium for free. form, less than 100 yards off the ferry, my Marine Highway System (AMHS) ferry from The bar opens from 11 AM to 11 PM, trailer slipped from the hitch, immediately Juneau. Overnighting aboard an AMHS and is great for chatting up strangers. gumming itself in the rear tire, derailleur, ferry is an experience in and of itself, sort of On our trip there were Austrian tourists and chain. The last time this happened, it

32 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 33 hard to do. In addition to regular rainfall, summer temperatures on POW range from the mid-40s to the mid-80s, which means toting many layers and second set of everything I couldn’t get on Prince of Wales. Like bike seat bolts, for instance. It was day three of my POW bicycle tour and I hadn’t even made it to the island. In fact, I’d barely even bicycled at all. With 150 miles of pedaling ahead of me, including a mountain pass Karla said her Honda struggled to summit, I seriously considered bagging the whole thing. But just as the clouds settled over my mood, the sun came out briefly, and I found myself before a public street map of Bambi? If Sitka deer are all you see on POW, you might consider yourself lucky. Ketchikan with the inscription: “There’s no such thing as can’t.” took two days and three people to fix it. heart attack. I said no, but wasn’t entirely So I sucked it up and repacked the This time, thankfully, I disentangled without convinced. trailer. I stashed every ounce of luxury having to disassemble. However, my gear- By sheer grit — and cursing — I willed I could jettison in a utility room at the ing wouldn’t be the same for the remainder myself to the campground just as darkness hotel: my travel guitar, a bag of homemade of the trip. Neither would my right knee, fell, drifting off to the steady pounding of brownies, anything made of cotton (includ- which had also jammed in the melee. rain on our tent and salmon splashing in ing underwear), even the cardboard boxes Another problem: While I’d trained the creek. At least I hoped it was salmon. my instant Indian food came in. By the pulling a 30-pound toddler, I hadn’t rid- Morning broke cold and gray with mist time I’d reconfigured, my spirits had lifted den fully loaded down with all my stuff. lifting off the trees as though the moun- substantially. The ride back to the ferry felt The ride to Ward Lake proved absolutely tains were on fire. The ride back to town comparatively effortless. Mind over matter, grueling. At the crest of one hill, Karla proved no easier. Now I faced a sobering I boarded the boat to Hollis, POW. No turn- stopped and asked if I was going to have a dilemma — I’d over-packed. This isn’t ing back now.

32 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 33 The inter-island ferry is smaller than its rubber clothes was a spectacle. For the rest bustling business center, the town features state-run counterpart, and full of regulars. of the week, we kept hearing “You’re the a supermarket, two gas stations, two liquor A word to the wise — stake out your terri- ones on the bicycles; we heard you were stores, and, inside an old converted school tory as spaces fill quickly, especially in the headed our way.” For a big island, POW is bus, the Klawock Diner. coffee shop, which again serves surpris- pretty small. Overpacked, undertrained, and drown- ingly excellent halibut burgers. “You got an electric motor on that ing my sorrows in coffee, I slumped at our Soon, POW loomed in all its verdant thing?” some guys yelled from a passing table, weighing my choices. I wasn’t about glory. Evidence of clear-cut logging truck. to spend the next six days at the Klawock exposed various scars, folds, and gashes in “No,” Karla called back. “We’re powered Diner, though its gregarious owner, Rod the mountains, like a person who suddenly by halibut burgers.” Heppe, himself an avid cyclist — “I ride an shaves his head. Karla likened us to bicycle ambassadors, old Peugeot carbon-fiber, you know, to get We landed in Hollis, which isn’t a town and she had a point. Most people who slowed my frustrations out” — probably would as much as a ferry dock and a few houses. at the sight of two women and an oversized have let me. But the thought of riding Aside from a vending machine in the IFA man pulling a trailer festooned with Dora the another 20 miles to that evening’s destina- office, no services exist. The closest accom- Explorer stickers stopped to chat. tion was enough to make me want to lose modations, a few summer rental cabins, are After a wet night and soggy morning at my lunch, which was a shame, because it nearly six miles away. We were headed Harris River, we lubed up and rode 11 wind- was a particularly delicious lunch (halibut to Harris River Campground, a looping swept miles toward Klawock. On one side of burgers yet again). complex of gravel laid down atop muskeg, the “highway,” spruce-covered mountains And, as my wife made abundantly clear, about six miles farther away. dropped into swampy muskeg, chockablock death was not an option. Now, we were touring. At Maybeso with stands of gnarly, stunted trees. The The way I saw things that rain-spattered Creek — POW is a crazy, wild place with other side opened every so often to ocean afternoon, there was only one solution: a crazy, wild names, like LAGNAF Creek (as views. Sitka deer bounded through irides- support vehicle. In retrospect, I could have in “Let’s All Get Naked and … well, you cent purple fireweed. An eagle swooped made it — two days later, the sun came get the picture”) — we stopped to view down almost to eye level, checking us out. out and I found my legs, too — but I can’t thousands of salmon, some eviscerated by Cycling in the rain is really dramat- remember being so happy to get someone bears, the luckier ones spawning. ic. Although my gears ground and my on the telephone. Hollis Adventure Rentals Considering most POW tourism involves knee throbbed, I persevered. Still, I can’t was the fourth number I’d called, the only hunting and fishing, the sight of three peo- describe my relief at the following words: one to answer. ple on bikes wearing fluorescent-colored “Now Entering Klawock.” Far from being a “But it may not be what you’re looking

QUÉBEC TERRE- NEUVE SAGUENAY– LAC-SAINT-JEAN I.-P.-É. ONTARIO N.-B. Québec N.-É. Montréal

Toronto Boston

Détroit New York Chicago

34 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 35 spiky devil’s club, cauliflower-sized lobes of cow parsnip and skunk cabbage heads large enough to sit inside. Suddenly, we heard loud honking in the forest canopy. “Pterodactyl!” Libby shouted as we spied two immense winged creatures burst into the sky. These turned out to be sandhill cranes, but still, I understood what she meant. Honestly, I wouldn’t have been surprised to see a brontosaurus in the bog. In fact, a few days before, a Discovery Channel film crew had been out that way searching for Sasquatch. Down a gravel trail sits placid, lily pad-glutted Control Lake. Thus began the “paddling” portion of our tour. The cabin lies across the lake. The Forest Service provides an aluminum rowboat, into which we loaded Libby, Karla, and their gear — the boat had a 500-pound weight capacity. On the move An Alaskan black bear. I watched them row into the mist, the wheels of their upside-down bicycles spin- for,” the man said, even though I would ning lazily, reflected in the glassy water. have taken a Yugo. “It’s a 4x4 crew-cab The Control Lake cabin is the nicest with a canopy cover — that be okay?” Forest Service cabin I’ve ever stayed in, and I told him I’d make due. I’m not just saying that because I’d been After a protracted attempt at hitch- out in the rain for three days. We almost hiking back to Hollis — tricky if you’re didn’t leave. a big, bearded, bedraggled dude with But there remained too much undis- gear — I made it to the Hollis Adventure covered country for us to succumb to Rentals compound, at the end of Peninsula laziness. Here, “Kicking Bird” gave us a Boulevard (the sign’s spelled “Penisula,” I well-deserved rest day as we checked out kid you not). There, I engaged the services the island. It also enabled us to take spur- of “Kicking Bird,” a Dodge Ram pickup. of-the-moment side trips that were too far Apparently, proprietor Darren Lamp names for bicycles. Without motorized wheels, all his vehicles (there is Birdy the Outback, for instance, we wouldn’t have taken the Edward the Conversion Van, and my per- 31-mile road to Hydaburg, and we would sonal favorite, Gladice the Toyota Titan). have missed the group of kids snagging With a swipe of my credit card — funny silver salmon from a bridge and the harbor how money sometimes can buy happiness seals that kept stealing them. — the bike tour switched from misery to The trip to El Capitan Cave — Alaska’s delight. Unencumbered by the trailer and only public access cave — took us past mixing in driving intervals, brutality gave a set of 10,000-year-old Kootznoowoo way to enjoyment. And isn’t that the point petroglyphs; the seriously Tolkienesque of travel? My real life is difficult enough, Beaver Falls Karst Area and Cavern Lake balancing career, marriage, fatherhood, Cave, replete with sinkholes and waterfalls and, when I can, personal growth. I can that disappear into the ground. There we experience adventure without descending watched a bear fish alongside an attractive into an abject struggle to survive. blonde woman carrying a .44 pistol and a The 18 miles up Big Salt Lake Road can of Rainier. Now that’s Alaska. between Klawock and our cabin at Control Accessing El Capitan requires a ranger- Lake was the only stretch I didn’t double- led tour, which leaves three times a day. back to complete under my own power. After 370 wild huckleberry-lined steps A mile or so to the cabin, I stopped to leading to the cave entrance, we passed shoot photos of Libby and Karla steadily through a heavy steel gate. curving into view. Clouds lifted, expos- “Sasquatch fuzz,” our guide said, ing higher peaks and patches of snow. motioning to some white fluff. Then she Primeval would be a good word to describe laughed. “The Discovery people were con- the scene. Along the roadside stood giant vinced they’d find him in here.”

34 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 35 Although Sasquatch failed to materialize momentum. Finally, in the distance, I dis- on the tour, we did see plenty of flowstone, cerned a sign. The top? Nope. Still a few more wet and glistening, hanging like tapestries miles up around a bend. My legs and lungs from the ceiling, as well as other creatively burned. My eyes froze into slits. I pressed on 0WYSB]cà named formations such as “Dragon Scales,” until finally I reached another sign: “Warning: “Dragon Snot,” and “Bacon.” Back outside, Narrow Road, Steep Descent.” W\3c`]^S our guide pointed to scratch marks high in My journal entry for the ensuing six-mile a tree, possible evidence of a real-life elusive portion totals one word, in large capital let- @S^`SaS\bW\U3c`]^SO\ creature, the Prince of Wales flying squirrel, ters: AWESOME. That’s all I remember, and PWYSb]c`Q][Ô\WSa found nowhere else on Earth. all I need to. =dS` `]cbSaW\!Q]c\b`WSa After another night at Control Lake, the Another nine miles along flat ground — ;O\geSSYZgROWZgRSÔ`bc`Sa morning began with an 18-mile mostly down- during which I caught a glimpse of a bear 1cab][b]càOdOWZOPZS hill ride into Thorne Bay, a town of about 600. leaping into the woods, still-bloody bits of There’s a grocery store —fresh food arrives carcass scattered across the road — brought on Tuesdays — a liquor store, one bar of cell us to Coffman Cove. We spent that night at service way out on the float-plane dock, and a a private campground right on the ocean, coin-operated shower at the harbor. gazing up at the newly cleared sky, shoot- At the far end of town began the tour’s ing stars, and the faint glimmer of Northern rugged section along Sandy Beach Road. Lights, a rare treat indeed. You don’t see This meant far less traffic and a respite from aurora in Southeast Alaska very often, and logging trucks. However, it also meant no almost never during summer. more hitchhiking. From here, I’d be riding By the time we woke up, the sun shined shuttles, driving ahead then biking back to full-bore. It was hot — in Alaska, 65 feels join my companions, driving ahead, biking like 85, especially as we turned off the dirt back, etc. In this way, “Kicking Bird” may road and back onto black asphalt. With con- have actually added mileage to my total. tinued gearing issues and a barking knee, I Right outside Thorne Bay, the road decided to take it easier and enjoy some of climbed again, winding into dense second- the area’s ample salmon fishing. How ample? ary growth. Then, to the right, the trees In the words of the clerk at the grocery store broke. In an instant, my vision filled with that morning, “All the cricks are holding.” shoreline, fjords, and islands. This was spec- Locals say you’ll find the most productive tacular dirt riding, no one in the world but spots at the inlets and outlets of lakes, specifi- me and the crunch of gravel. For the first cally Sweetwater Lake. However, not wish- time, I didn’t feel at a disadvantage for riding ing to hike an extra five miles and back, I `SZOf on fat, knobby tires. decided to scout a different hole right off the At Sandy Beach Picnic Area, a cove road. About 13 miles out of Coffman Cove, I looking across to the mainland, we ate in reached an idyllic little pool beneath Log Jam silence, sitting on driftwood, watching the Bridge, with a beach and a trail wide enough sun peek through the clouds and a cruise to accommodate our bicycles. The place was ship sail across the horizon. Sandy Beach is perfect (up north, we call this “skookum.”) an inter-tidal dream, strewn with sea stars, By the time we returned, Log Jam’s tran- sand dollars, clams spurting water three feet quility had disappeared. In its place were into the air, and more than several crabs, chainsaws, machinery, and diesel engines um, “having it,” is the phrase Libby used as — a clear-cut in progress. Through the trees, Sf^Z]`S she enthusiastically snapped photos of the in the midst of this beautiful green and blue copulating crustaceans. day, stood a denuded hill, all dirt, bramble, The following morning, Ratz Pass — the and sawdust. steepest, longest stretch — lay in wait. Our “I’m surprised we haven’t come across goal: up, over, and on to Coffman Cove this earlier,” Karla said, clearly upset. before the grocery store closed. My attempt Libby and I took a closer look at stacks of at adjusting both derailleurs managed to logs, dropped one onto another, then picked quiet the grinding. However, the chain no up and placed onto a flatbed. When that flat- longer wanted to shift off the front middle bed filled, another took its place, then anoth- =\SeSSYb]càT`][$# sprocket. I tried not to let this ruin my fun er, then another, with eerie efficiency. It was &%%"$ " ! along the initial 10 miles of twists, turns, sad but beautiful, like photographs of war. W\T].PWYSb]càRW`SQbQ][ drops, and moguls. But this is reality on POW, and why peo- PWYSb]càRW`SQbQ][ Then I reached the pass. This was the ple like Karla are trying to stimulate tourism steepest road I’ve ever ridden — and walked as a way to supplant logging. Specifically, a bicycle up — in my life. The more elevation, she hopes to accustom locals to the presence the harder the rain fell, but I feared losing of human-powered vehicles and help them

36 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 37 see bicycle touring as another slice of a diversified economy. “Maybe even support a bike shop,” she said. “That’d be nice.” The remainder of our trip entailed back- tracking, another night each at Control Lake and Harris River, with encores of Northern Lights at both. As Karla rousted us for our 5:00 am wake-up ride to the return ferry, one final leg remained. I ticked off each mile as I watched my early-morning shadow elongate across the pavement. Sore, sunburned, and covered in salsa (tighten those jars before you slip them into your back- pack’s water bottle holder), I rolled into the ferry terminal feeling a heady mix of elation and exhaustion. In staying alive, I’d kept my promise to my wife. I was thrilled to hook up again with the portion of the tour that included a nap — and halibut burgers.

Geoff Kirsch (geoffkirsch.com) has written for The Huffington Post, Comedy Central, and The The evolution of bicycle safety. Chicago Tribune. His first book, Run For Your Life Apocalypse 2012!, is forthcoming from Workman Superﬂash Turbo Publishing. Photographer Libby Sterling is a visual journalist for the Juneau Empire. View her photos at libbyis.com. BETTER BICYCLE PRODUCTS FOR A BETTER WORLD planetbike.com

36 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 37 McKenzie Pass Revisited by Willie Weir

2010: I woke up without an alarm. while riding. We also used the cheap- The cool air wafting through the tent est bike tires money could buy. We smelled of fir and cedar. There wasn’t did have a map. We were following the much movement in Paradise Campground Bikecentennial route, but we couldn’t trees. There except for the Mackenzie River gurgling afford the whole series of maps, so we wasn’t a loudly nearby. The sun hadn’t risen yet. bought the first one and figured we’d cloud in the sky. And this was paradise — a beautiful wing it from there. Thomas now had August morning in the midst of a bike We packed no rain gear. It was summer, more than 27 years as we reasoned, so it wasn’t going to rain a high-school biology teacher (we were both raised in California). If under his belt and more than it did rain, we decided, it was going 26 years of marriage to an to be a warm, refreshing, gentle sum- amazing woman with whom mer shower. he raised three incredible children. I It was so cold I could see my had done a stint in professional theater breath, and my numb fingers fumbled before the travel bug bit me, found the to cram the sopping-wet tent into its perfect traveling and life companion, and stuff sack. managed to avoid having what most people This was crazy! If it was this cold would call a real job. here, what would it be like on top of When Thomas contacted me about tak- McKenzie Pass? ing our first bike trip together in 29 years, Before we had finished packing the idea of retracing our journey across up, news Oregon traveled immedi- trip with friends. I was raring to go. It was through the ately came time to climb McKenzie Pass. campground of to mind. What a difference 29 years can make. just how cold But with it was up there so many 1981: On July 6, I woke up in the — the pass was cycling very same campground to the sound of a closed due to opportuni- cold drizzle. Beads of water covered the snow. ties, why inside of our bargain-basement tent. Rain? “Snow? repeat? Condensation? Probably both — our tent It’s July!” I Since our was far from waterproof. stammered to first journey My buddy, Thomas, and I were on day Thomas. “How was from five of our bicycle trip across America. I will we get west to east, was crawling toward an associate’s degree at over McKenzie why not a community college, whereas Thomas was Pass?” north to south? We agreed on Portland to pre-med at University of California Davis. Klamath Falls via Crater Lake. We thought we were prepared. I can 2010: On August 1, Thomas and I Thomas flew from Sacramento to laugh heartily about it now. We wore pedaled out of Paradise Campground as Seattle. We talked our other lifelong cotton running shorts and sweat pants the beams of sunrise filtered through the buddy, Randy, into joining us and booked

38 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 39 passage for our- 1981: We ended our behind a church. We were sore and tired. selves and our first day of our epic jour- We’d probably be asleep before dusk. bikes on the ney sunburned and sore. A car pulled into the lot, followed by Amtrak Cascades We both had forgotten to another, and another. Soon there was a line to Portland. buy sunscreen. The camp- steady stream of trucks and station wag- ground where we planned ons. When the dust settled, we were com- 1981: to stay was full. Every pletely surrounded. Car stereos blared and Thomas and I campground was full. We small children ran amok. were on such a had made a tactical error We had somehow managed to pick the limited budget we in planning to camp here most popular patch of gravel from which to couldn’t afford the weekend of July 4. In watch the county’s Fourth of July firework train or bus fare. a panic, we knocked on a display. The last vehicle pulled away at 1:30 We heard that a door and asked the man AM with the parting call, “Sleep well.” friend’s family was who answered if we could The next day, we stopped for ice cream going on a camp- pitch our tent in his yard. sandwiches at every opportunity. ing trip in Canada. We ended up We hitched a sleeping on a 2010: ride in their queen-size hide- We stopped motor home. The a-bed sofa in his for ice cream Bikecentennial Trail began at Astoria, but garage. sandwiches at Seaside was as far as they would take us. At every oppor- least it was the Pacific Ocean. 2010: I love wild camp- tunity. We had to dip our back tires in the ing. Dispersal camping is what Pacific Ocean — everyone told us that they call it in national forests. 1981: — but the tide was out. It was Bikes have the great advantage McKenzie Pass the lowest tide since humans of needing very little room to loomed ahead. began measuring them. We park. On our second night, the It wasn’t the dutifully drug our bikes three of us found an idyllic site highest pass, through sand and surf. by the river. or the longest, Everything got wet. Small camp stores were but it was often the only shopping avail- the first. The 2010: able on this route. Over the country was We had to years, I’ve learned from my so big, and dip our plas- partner, Kat, to make the best my bike felt so tic forks into several entrees at Portland’s of the ingredients you have. heavy. Many famous food carts — everyone told us I fired up the camp stove, sautéed some other people that. It didn’t matter that we had pedaled garlic and onions in the pot, and then had successfully made the trip, but what less than a mile from the train station. poured in a large can of chicken noodle if I just wasn’t made for this? Bring on crepes, followed soup. Once it came to a boil, I gently The summit was almost 18 miles away. by two orders of a cracked and lowered six eggs, How steep would it get? Would I have to spicy Thai dish, one at a time and let the roll- walk my bike? And now there’s snow. Are and then noo- ing boil stir them. I topped we going to have to wait weeks for it to dles. We duti- it off with red pepper clear? I thought I would run out of money fully stopped flakes, and we feasted on before we even crossed Oregon. for Voodoo spicy egg-drop chicken- donuts for des- noodle soup. 2010: McKenzie Pass greeted us like sert. Less than We chatted around an old friend. I knew how steep it would 10 miles later, the campfire while sip- be — not nearly as steep as hundreds of we stopped for ping tea and listened to other mountain passes I’d climbed. And I root beer floats, the calls of barred owls: knew which views were waiting for me, just because they “Who cooks for you? Who full of wonderful volcanic bareness and were there. cooks for you?” near and distant mountain peaks. We ended our There would be no stress or worries, first day of pedal- 1981: We opened a couple just a quiet scenic highway and two ing at a quaint of cans of soup with a Swiss old friends chatting and laughing, both little campground Army knife and drank them. wondering why it took so long to travel just on the edge We’d cook another night. We together again. of the Mount had managed to score Hood National a free campsite in 1981: The pass cleared that very day. Forest. the empty gravel lot After buying rain gear at the general store

38 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 39 Nuts & Bolts: MacKenzie Pass

Oregon: As a bicycle traveler, you can’t clockwise, you’ll have less traffic and better go wrong in Oregon. This state boasts light for photographs. five Adventure Cycling routes within its

borders. Astoria Mt Adams 12276 N Seaside

E WASHINGTON

Amtrak: As the airline industry smacks C O Hood River

touring cyclists with higher fees, Amtrak Portland

C I Mt Hood OREGON just gets better. This trip was perfect for F I 11239

A the train. We booked tickets ahead of time E P

S G

E on the Amtrak Cascades from Seattle to N

G A

Portland. The Cascade trains all have bike N R

A McKenzie Pass racks to hang bicycles (six bikes per bag- R Sisters 5335

Discover Canada gage car at present). You can reserve a

Bend Florence Eugene E spot for your bike for $5 one way. Reserve L

D A By Bike in 2011! early if you are traveling on the weekend as T A S C Portland S the bike slots go fast. O A Klamath Falls C C The Amtrak Coast Starlight train does Adventure Cycling The By-Cycle Ride Bicycle Route CRATER LAKE N.P. not have bike racks but does offer bike case y g r eene Toronto to Ottawa / June 26 - July 1 boxes. Loading a bike is $5. The box is $20. Used boxes are free. Icefields Parkway Oakridge: This little town southeast of Jasper to Calgary / July 7 - July 11 Crater Lake: Many more cyclists are Eugene sports a world-class English pub discovering this gem because Crater Lake (Brewers Union Local 180) where you The BiQue Ride is on the new Adventure Cylings’s Sierra can dine on fish and chips and enjoy a Toronto to Montreal / July 9 - July 16 Cascades route. Make sure you take the hand-pulled English-style ale. The town time to pedal the road around the rim. also sports a newly opened hostel (www. Voyageur Route Many will suggest that you ride it clock- oakridgehostel.com) that is very bicycle Ottawa to Quebec City / July 24 - July 29 wise. This is information for car and camper friendly. The current rate is $35 and drivers, who have a hard time pulling over includes breakfast. But if you bicycle there, Niagara Vineyards to see the view. If you bicycle counter- the rate is $25. Hamilton to Niagara Falls / Aug. 7 - Aug. 12 Tour Vert Montreal to Quebec City / Aug. 21, - Aug. 26 Cabot Trail Charlottetown to Baddeck / Aug. 24 - Aug. 29 Fall Colours Alliston to Niagara Falls / Oct. 3 - Oct. 7 Tour TransCanada Vancouver to St. John’s / June 14 - Aug. 26 Tour Pacific Vancouver to Calgary / June 27 - July 11 Tour Arctic Vancouver to Inuvik / July 19 - Aug. 12 Tour Atlantic Halifax to Baddeck / Aug. 15 - Aug. 29 Organizers of Tour du Canada For more information visit www.CycleCanada.com Tel. 705-434-1100 / 800-214-7798 E-mail [email protected]

40 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 41 in McKenzie Bridge, Thomas and I summited McKenzie Pass and climbed toward the lookout tower. Thanks to the earlier snowstorm, you could see 100 miles in every direction. We coasted down into Sisters, Oregon, where we met a Frenchman named Francois at the local campground. We traveled together for two weeks before our routes divided. A couple of months later, we dipped our front tires in the Atlantic Ocean. And like several thousand others who have crossed the country with the aid and inspiration of the Adventure Cycling Association, we would recall the journey as one of life‘s highlights.

2010: We summited late morning to a hazy view due to a fire near Sisters. We turned around and for the first time got to experience the downhill of that stretch of highway. Randy waited for us, and we continued pedaling along the McKenzie River beside spectacular waterfalls on the Aufderheide Memorial Drive, one of the most beautiful and bike-friendly roads in the state of Oregon. We enjoyed hand-pulled pints at a fantastic English-style pub in the little town of Oakridge, which features a great hostel, too. It was there that we said good- bye to Randy, who returned to Seattle from Eugene via Amtrak. Thomas and I continued pedaling south. We climbed over a mountain pass on a gravel road, and then back on to pavement toward Crater Lake, where we intersected with the Pacific Cascades route. Every cyclist we met was packing Adventure Cycling maps. We took an entire day to casually ride the 33-mile rim road around Crater Lake. The campground was full at the National Park and dozens of would-be campers were turned away. But a group of cyclists reached out and invited us to share their group site, complete with food, laughter, friends, and bicycles. Two days later, I stood at the train station in Klamath Falls and hugged my friend good-bye. His train was headed south, and mine was going north. We talked of traveling more often together, but one ride is already planned. 29 years from now, Thomas and I will climb McKenzie Pass again. I’ll be 79. He’ll be 81. We’ll stop for ice cream sandwiches at every opportunity.

Willie Weir also spins a great yarn live. To find out where you can catch one of his upcoming shows, visit willieweir.com.

40 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 41 In 2010, Adventure Cycling Association had more traveling cyclists visit our Missoula, MT headquarters than any previous year. In addition, we also saw record numbers of donations, press coverage, number of maps sold, and number of participants on our tours.

Adventure Cycling Association is North America’s largest nonprofit bicycling membership organization. Our mission is to inspire people of all ages to travel by bicycle for fitness, fun, and self-discovery. We enrich lives and connect communities by creating state-of-the-art bike routes and maps, leading unique bike tours, publishing the award-winning Adventure Cyclist magazine, working on important projects such as the U.S. Bicycle Route System and outreach to young people, testing and selling bike-travel gear, and providing bicycle-travel information. The proceeds from our tours, sales, memberships, and fundraising

G R EG SIP L E efforts are used for our nonprofit initiatives to promote and improve cycling and bicycle travel in Adventure Cycling staff outside our headquaters in Missoula, Montana. the U.S. and beyond. Adventure Cycling Association 2010 Annual Report Dear Adventure Cycling Members, You Are Amazing! Because of your support, Adventure Cycling enjoyed we saw many states leap forward to create an official the best year ever in promoting bicycle travel and U.S. Bicycle Route System (USBRS). 29 states (up bicycling throughout North America. On behalf of the from 12 last year) plus the District of Columbia are Board of Directors, I want to thank you for your working with us to create what will likely become the loyalty and generosity. Even though the economy is largest official bike network in the world. Additionally, still rebounding, you found it possible to renew your we worked at the federal and state levels to encourage memberships (often for multiple years, saving costs smarter investments in bike facilities — and against and trees) and give more generous donations than ever projects (like the poor application of rumble strips) before. that would make it harder for cyclists to use America’s roads and trails. As a result, our remarkable staff and volunteers stuck to their end of the bargain, working to inspire people All of our efforts added up to new milestones for of all ages to travel by bicycle. Our routes and Adventure Cycling: more maps sold, more visibility, mapping staff completed the spectacular 2,478-mile more tours and tour participants, more donations, and Sierra Cascades Bicycle Route — and took the more cycling visitors to our Missoula headquarters Adventure Cycling route network over 40,000 miles, (nearly 1,100!). Just as important, we now have the largest mapped network of bike-friendly routes in tremendous momentum going into 2011 — to the world. Our cartographic crew also conducted develop our next epic route (Bicycle Route 66), research on a revamped Atlantic Coast route and a new establish the first new official U.S. Bicycle Routes in Underground Railroad alternate route through nearly three decades, elevate bicycle travel in the global Michigan. All the while, they updated 32 map tourism industry, and much more. sections, keeping our pledge to produce the best and most up-to-date cycling maps anywhere. The main reason all of this happens is the partnership between you, our members and supporters, and the We continued to publish one of your favorite staff and volunteers who work so hard to make bicycle magazines, Adventure Cyclist, nine times and to great travel more enjoyable and accessible for hundreds of acclaim, and we maintained the online Cyclists’ Yellow thousands of people every year. Thank you and enjoy Pages, our global guide to bicycle travel. The this report, which details what our partnership makes bicycle-travel community bloomed in 2010, as we met possible. with members, officials, and advocates in more than a dozen states — and saw our virtual community grow, Carol York with 25,000 “fans” on Facebook, 40,000 subscribers to our free e-newsletter Bike Bits, and lots of activity on our redesigned online discussion forums, Flickr, G R EG SIP L E YouTube, and Twitter. (You can connect to all of these President at www.adventurecycling.org.) Adventure Cycling Board of Directors In 2010, we invested more time than ever in promoting better bicycling conditions. Most exciting,

In 2010, Adventure Cycling Association pursued three strategic campaigns:

• Creating Bike Routes for the Nation • Getting More People Traveling by Bicycle • Supporting Bicycling Communities Creating Bike Routes for the Nation

New Routes and Maps of the map sections was the Great Divide Canada, where a revision now takes In 2010, the routes and mapping department published the spectacular new riders into the upper headwaters of the Flathead River. This scenic drainage is 2,478-mile Sierra Cascades Bicycle Route. This 5-section map set was done called the “Serengeti of North America” by biologists for its unrivaled wildlife using GIS (Geographic Information Systems) software. With the publication populations, and it’s the last major valley in British Columbia to be completely of the new route, our total number of mapped miles now totals 40,699 — the uninhabited. We also did on-the-ground research for the planned largest mapped network of bike-friendly routes in the world. Underground Railroad Detroit Alternate (due to be released in 2011) and for changes to the Atlantic Coast Bicycle Route. Existing Routes While creating new routes, we didn’t forget to keep our other routes up-to- date. We revised and reprinted 32 map sections (out of 92 total sections). One

GetTING more people traveling by bicycle

Membership Publications • Adventure Cycling is the largest nonprofit bicycling organization in the U.S. • We published nine issues of Adventure Cyclist magazine, the highlight being In 2010, we stayed close to our all-time high in memberships (reached last two 64-page issues in March and April. The April issue was also our first year) with 44,739 members. Plus, 6,375 new members joined the Cyclists’ Travel Guide, a new themed issue with a focus on how-to organization in 2010. bike-travel information. We are also proud of the May issue, which featured • We welcomed 50 new life members into the fold for a total of 1,577. the first full-length magazine feature story about Thomas Stevens — the first Life-membership dollars support long-term projects at Adventure Cycling official around-the-world cyclist — in many a year. For the cover of the and in the past this fund has helped us purchase our building, creating a issue, we chose the original watercolor of Stevens on his penny farthing permanent home for the organization, and a great place for visiting cyclists. taken directly from his 1889 book Around the World on a Bicycle. • We provided over 13,000 cyclists with trip planning information through • Our excellent publications design crew teamed up with the Adventure Cycling our printed materials and reached many thousands more through the vast tours and sales teams to create top-notch publications to help them promote resources on our website. Also, in 2010, we had over 232 member shops, organized tours, bike-travel gear, and our one-of-a-kind bike-travel maps. and our 117 member clubs served more than 62,000 individual cyclists. Media Outreach and Education • The U.S. Bicycle Route System (USBRS) garnered widespread media • Volunteer ambassadors presented Adventure Cycling information at attention in 2010 from small regional papers to high-profile coverage online. numerous public gatherings and staff made presentations and connections at AOL Travel named the USBRS #3 on its list of the 10 most ambitious conferences including the National Bike Summit, Utah Bike Summit, transportation projects of the 21st century and U.S. Secretary of Minnesota Bicycle Tourism Summit, Adventure Travel World Summit, Mid-America Trails and Greenway Conference, American Public Works Transportation Ray LaHood wrote a widely distributed blog post about the Association Conference, American Society of Highway Engineers USBRS on his FastLane blog. The USBRS also received coverage in the Conference, Pro Walk Pro Bike Conference, National Smart Growth Pittsburgh Post-Gazette, AASHTO Journal, Yes! Magazine, Bicycle Retailer and Conference, and a BikePortland webcast event. We also held many regional Industry News, Alternet, NewWest.net, APWA Reporter (American Public gatherings with our members from California and Ohio to Texas and Works Association’s journal), and many other publications and websites. Florida. Over 9,000 listeners tuned into a live webcast event hosted by BikePortland • 2010 was a record year for our Awards Program. We received a total of 78 featuring Ginny Sullivan, our lead staff on the USBRS. nominations, with our Pacesetter Award winner receiving 21! We presented • The TransAmerica Trail made a splash in Oprah Magazine in its short our four national bike-travel awards to the City of Farmington, MO; Jim “Dream It, Do It” feature encouraging readers to expand their horizons and Klobuchar of Minneapolis, MN; Bike Newport in Newport, OR; Chuck follow their dreams. This exposure led to the inclusion of our resources and Pengilly of Missoula, MT.

These Washington cyclists, all 21 years old, really stacked up on their TransAm tour. John Replinger, a Bikecentennial 76 rider, and his wife, Valerie, rode from Portland, OR Evan (second from top) recalled his lunch in Missoula, “2 McDoubles, 1 McChicken, 4 to Washington, DC with their nine-year-old triplets. As a reward for their 93-day trek, apple pies, 1 ice cream cone, and 1 hot fudge sundae.” each triplet was promised their own dog when they returned home.

44 ADVENTURE CYCLING ASSOCIATION 2010 ANNUAL REPORT website on NBC’s Today Show. Adventure Cycling’s routes and related • We migrated our online ads to now be managed and displayed using Google activities netted headlines across the country in publications such as the Los Ad Manager. We also revamped our tools and processes for managing Angeles Times, Miami Herald, National Geographic Traveler, Ode Magazine, bounced emails from our bulk email campaigns. Wend Magazine, The Portland Press Herald, Vail Daily, Silver City News, West Kentucky Star, Newark Advocate, The Brooklyn Rail, among many others. Marketing • Adventure Cycling was featured in a widely distributed AP story, “Bike tours • We completed the third annual membership survey and the sales department attract older, active lifestyle riders,” which ran on CBS.com and in the sent out a separate survey to determine product needs and service quality for Denver Post, Indianapolis Star, Atlanta Journal Constitution, among other the program. Overall we received very high marks from our members. publications. Adventure Cyclist Deputy Editor Aaron Teasdale contributed a • For our 2010 Share the Joy Giveaway — which prompted members to get section on ultralight touring kits to a major feature in Bicycle Times. their friends to join — we partnered with Rawland Bicycles and product • USA Today featured our Blue Ridge Bliss tour as part of a guide to cycling manufacturers such as Canari, Cannondale, Old Man Mountain, Ortlieb, the Blue Ridge Parkway and Celebrated Living — an American Airlines’ Arkel, Detours, and BOB Trailers. magazine — included our Cycle the Divide Montana tour in their “15 • We sent out more than 175,000 shop display cards to 2,200 bike shops and Action-Packed Adventures Around the Globe.” REI stores across the country to promote bicycle travel • We published 24 editions of our popular e-newsletter, Bike Bits, which • Decal design, printing, and distribution began for four routes: TransAmerica reaches more than 40,000 subscribers. Trail, Great Divide Mountain Bike Route, Sierra Cascades, and the Pacific Coast. • Partnerships were key to our success in 2010. Internationally we worked Social Media with CTC of Great Britain, and locally we participated in partnerships with • In 2010 our blog (http://blog.adventurecycling.org) attracted 10,000 visitors Missoula in Motion, University of Montana, Missoula Free Cycles, and per month and referred over 42,000 visitors to our website at www. Sunday Streets Missoula. On the national level we worked with many groups adventurecycling.org. such as BicycleTouringPro.com, Bike Friday, University of Oregon’s Outdoor • During National Bike Month (May 2010), we raised over $27,000 via our Program, WEND Magazine, and Arkel. These partnerships allowed us to social media channels for the U.S. Bicycle Route System. inspire more people than ever to travel by bicycle. • Our Second Annual Bicycle Travel Photo Contest attracted more than 700 submissions from over 130 photographers. Tours • Our social media communities exploded. Our Facebook community grew to • In 2010, a record 1,118 riders participated in 45 Adventure Cycling tours 25,000 fans, up from only 5,000 in 2009. Our YouTube videos were viewed and classes. Together they pedaled more than 720,000 miles! Many of these more than 45,000 times, our Twitter followers topped 3,100, and our Flickr trips were classic tours, seven were brand new trips, and another five were photos were viewed more than 297,000 times! new variations on existing tours. New tour locations included Death Valley and Missouri’s Katy Trail. Web/IT • To help touring cyclists communicate and showcase what is going on out on Sales the road, we implemented Twitter feeds using a unique hash tag for each • Adventure Cycling provides an excellent selection of bicycle-travel gear and route. distributes its own renowned bicycle maps. With the release of the Sierra • We revamped the online publications archive and added the majority of past Cascade Bicycle Route maps in 2010, we saw a 5% increase in map sales Adventure Cyclist articles from 1993 to present. This new system allows staff over 2009. to add new articles easily, and allows you to more easily search the articles, or • Income from Adventure organize them by column type. Cycling’s online store and • We moved the website to a new dedicated server to separate it from our catalog hit an all time high with Exchange email server, and updated our web hosting software. We began a 10% increase over 2009. We migrating our Windows computers to Windows 7 from Windows XP and processed 11,406 sales orders upgraded all machines from Office 2003 to Office 2010. We also upgraded and distributed the front end of our database to Access 2010, and we moved our back end 31,521 individual credit card payment system to a new processor. map units. Cyclists featured in black & white portraits visited our office in Missoula, during Photography MT, 2010. by Greg Siple.

These 14 women, all University of Illinois students, were part of the “Illini 4000 for On a solo, self-contained trip from Yorktown, VA to Astoria, OR, Benjamin Horne wished Cancer” charity ride. The group rode from New York City to San Francisco and raised to “dispell the belief that unicyclists are only performers.” Limited to just a pack on his more than $100,000 for the American Cancer Society. back, he carried only the bare essentials: an Apple iPod Touch, but no tent.

ADVENTURE CYCLING ASSOCIATION 2010 ANNUAL REPORT 45 SupportING Bicycling Communities

2010 was an important year for Adventure Cycling’s efforts to promote cycling Staff spoke at numerous conferences about the USBRS and held regional and nationally and to develop safer, more comfortable places to ride. state meetings with advocacy groups and agency officials that yielded partnerships to support route development. Through these experiences, U.S. Bicycle Route System Adventure Cycling developed implementation models, tools, and resources Progress on the U.S. Bicycle Route System (USBRS) focused on three major that will aid future efforts. A state-by-state status report is available at www. areas: build greater public awareness and communicate the benefits of the adventurecycling.org/usbrs. The bottom line: 29 states are now working to system; develop partnerships to support route development; and develop tools implement official U.S. Bicycle Routes! and resources to support route implementation. National Advocacy We built awareness about the USBRS through a combination of social media Adventure Cycling was very busy in advocating for better cycling conditions, and traditional channels: blog posts, articles, an online fundraising event, and especially with the Federal Highway Administration and state agencies on the meetings/conferences. Outcomes worth noting: the USBRS Facebook page application of rumble strips — on secondary roads favored by bicyclists in grew to more than 15,000 fans. In July, U.S. Dept. of Transportation Secretary particular. We made some headway with state and local agencies but are still Ray LaHood blogged about the project, stating, “The U.S. Bicycle Route working on those levels and to improve federal policy and guidance. We System is not just a bunch of bike paths; we’re talking about a transportation continued our work with America Bikes to advocate for better national system. It will facilitate travel between communities and to historic and policies and funding for cycling, but saw slow progress here as federal leaders cultural landmarks. It will give people living in more rural areas a way to travel focused on priorities other than transportation. We expect more activity in into a nearby urban area by bicycle. Urban and suburban residents will have 2011. Meanwhile, we increased our efforts to elevate the profile of bicycle better access to rural recreation areas. And — like our Interstate Highway travel in the global tourism industry and to make the economic case for bike System — it will facilitate long-distance travel by bicycle, whether across one’s tourism in order to encourage governments to invest in cycling facilities and

state or across the country.” promotion, and draw more people to this beneficial activity.

ple i S g e r G ple i S g e r G

Australians William and Lauren Dunstan traced the trail of William’s grandfather, who These California cyclists got together for a west to east TransAm. Although they rode the TransAm in 1976 and published the book It’s All Uphill. “Each night we read the experienced very hot and humid weather between Colorado and Virginia, it was still

relevant passage after passing through the same towns he did 34 years ago.” enjoyable thanks to “the friendliness and generosity” of the people they encountered. CHUCK HANEY CHUCK Our Awesome Supporters In 2010, we raised $373,219 from donors. $90,000 in grant support came from SRAM, REI, New Belgium Brewing, Bikes Belong, and the Lazar Foundation. We launched our first social media fundraising campaign to support the U.S. Bicycle Route System and raised more than $27,000 as well as engaging thousands of new cyclists in this project through Facebook, Twitter, Causes, and Change.org. Public support of this project is key to the state-by-state implementation of an official national bicycle route system.

Donations from individuals, foundations, and businesses support advocacy and education projects, including development of the U.S. Bicycle Route System, creation of new bike routes such as the Sierra Cascades Bicycle Route, maintenance of map information for our established routes, distribution of youth bike travel resources, and efforts at the federal level to secure better bicycling policies and resources.

Adventure Cycling donors

Grants Valley Spokesmen Touring Club · VT Community Foundation/Backman & Christopher Fund · Roy Weil & Mary Shaw · Bob & Susan Wislow · Carol York & Pete Fotheringham AASHTO’s Center for Environmental Excellence · New Belgium Brewing · Recreational Equipment Inc. (REI) · SRAM · The Lazar Foundation Freewheelers $250-$499 Betsy Adams · Hewes Agnew · Jay & Patricia Anderson · Anonymous (6) · Arkansas · · · · · Special Recognition $10,000 + Bicycle Club Rob Atack Russ & Carol Atha Paul Attalla Arthur Bartlett Polly Bavo · James Beeman · Bart Berg · BikeToursDirect · Bernard Black · Leslie Bohm, Catalyst Anonymous (2) · Crunchy Frog Fund · Fidelity Charitable Gift Fund · Network for Good · Communication · Gary Botto · William Branstrup Jr · Don Brodie · Jeffrey & Mary Brown Susan & Stephen Immelt · Steve Seay · Roger & Lynn Brucker · Alan Bubna · Jeffrey Burke · Robert Burpee · James Caldwell · California Gold Coast CFC · Jim Calvert Family · Walter Carr Family · Combined Federal Thomas Stevens Society Campaign (CFC) · CFC Greater Pensacola · Chambersburg CFC · John Ciecko · Bart (TransAm Travel & Adventurer’s Circle) $2,500-$9,999 Coddington · William & Lynne Combs · Community Foundation of New Jersey · Ron Core · Mark Cotovsky & Jefferson Rogers · Robin Cotton Family · Lori Crouch Family · Anonymous (2) · Tom Blanck · Nard Claar · Combined Federal Campaign (CFC) Global Marc de Venoge Family · Jessica Dempsey Chiam · John Dingman Family · Kristin Dyer Impact Overseas · Dan Hungate · Robert Wood Johnson Foundation-Matching Gifts · & Eric Lechner · Russ Dykstra · Karl Eggers · Robert Ehrhardt · Nora Elliott · Mary Emmett Donna Sakson & Jonathan Mark · Schwab Charitable Fund · Charles Pace · Ann Raines & · Mary Jane Evans · Lisa Farrugia Family · David & Anne Fege · Philip Gash · Edward Stephen Corbett · Porter & Gail Storey · Steven Whalen Gent Family · Al Gerhardstein · Ronald & Claudette Giesinger · Valerie Gilliam Family · Raymond Ginther · Giving Fund · Ross Glasgow · Steven Goerke · Wayne Goodman · · · · Thomas Stevens Society (Touring Circle) $1,000 to $2,499 Sean Gordon & Suzanne Miller Janet & Charles Goss B Charles Graham Bucky Green · James Grieshop · Douglas Griffith · Steve Hammett · Charles Harmon · George & Amgen Foundation · Anonymous (6) · Sarah & David Apple · Apple Foundation Inc. · Joanne Harper · Greg Harrah · Hugh Hart · Lee Herman · George Hetrick · Steve Holland Linda Bothwell · Peter Bower · David Bowman · Randy Brodersen · Alan Cannon Family Family · Ned Holmes · Jim & Wendy Homerosky · Julie Huck & Ron Uchytil · Elizabeth · Combined Federal Campaign (CFC) Portland · Chevron Humankind Matching Gift Prgm Hughes & David Georgius · Paul Jakus · Peter Janick · Bruce & Kate Johnson · Cap Kane · Marc Clark · Matthew Cohn · Alan Detwiler · John Dohner · John Emory Jr. · Clay · Terry Kasey · Carol Kearns · Diane Kelso · Emily Kenyon · Lynn Klanchar & Chip Coutts Frick · Todd Gardner · Robert Gubler · Ron Gutfleish · Don Jenkins · Margaret Jones · · Edward Kleinbard · Brian Kliment · John Klingenstein · Kurt Koerth · Scott Korn Family · Klean Kanteen · Amy Kristoff · Bill Lurton · Arthur McMurdie · George Mendes · Howard Jonathan Krall · Jane Leiby · Rick Lenon · Judine Leonhart · Nels & Liz Leutwiler · Stuart Metzenberg · Michael Morency · Jim Musante · National Philanthropic Trust · Melissa & Lipman · Zack Lodato · Thomas Lopez · Jon Loreen · Mark Makulinski · Patrick Mantyh · David Norton · Timothy Petersen · James Pritzker · Christopher Puin · Salsa · Sean Smith Shelia Martin Family · Celeste Matarazzo · Keith McConnell · McConnell Foundation · Tim · Laurie & Ed Stalling · Brent Studler · Sean & Sandra Sweeney · Tawani Foundation · McGowen · Robert Mendelson · Bill Merritt Family · Paul Millar · Michael Miller · Todd Mills · TeamEstrogen.com · Dan & Lora Van Epp · Vanguard Charitable Endowment Program · Minneapolis Foundation · Monsanto Fund · Kathleen Morgan · Jim Morris · Rod Nisi · Peter Steven & Carolyn Vonderfecht · Wally Werner · Fillmore & Sharon Wood O`Keeffe · Tom Olson · Kelly Oneal Family · Larry O’Reilly · David Pancost · Charles Pengilly · Jeffrey Penta · Roberto & Dalia Perelman · Richard Piper · Laura Pitchford · Steven Powell · Carol Prahinski · Bob & Linda Railey · Charles Reller · Jennifer Risch · Christopher & Kathy Corporate Members Robertson · Dan Rogalla · Robert San Jule · John Schaffers · Marti Scheel · Janet SeGall · Keith Serxner Family · John Settlage · Janice Sevey · Joshua Short · George Simmons Jr. Titanium: Quality Bicycle Products · Salsa · Surly · Randall Simpson · Richard Slaymaker · J Robert Small · Kent Smith · Anjanette Smith · St Mary’s Clinic · Adena Staben · Leonard Stegman · Tracy & Mary Stollberg · Ray Swartz Gold: AdventureCORPS Inc. · BikeFlights.com · BOB Trailer · Co-Motion Cycles · · Michael Talbert · Thomas Tetzlaff · Wayne Teumer · Jim Tobias · Paul Turek · Jonathan GuidedCycling.com · Klean Kanteen · Old Man Mtn Products · Osprey Packs Inc. Van Haste · Steven Wallaert · Craig Weber · Rob Whittington Family · Bruce Wickert · Mark · Rawland Cycles · Red Arrow Group · Renaissance Bicycles LLC · TeamEstrogen. Wilcox · Joeff Williams · George Wilson · Dean Wilson · Anne Winkes · Dick Wright Family com · Woman Tours · Malcolm Wright · Glenn Yarbrough Silver: Cascade Huts · ClubExpress · CycloCamping · Hiawatha Cyclery · Jacob New Life Members North Companies · Keen Inc · National Bicycle Dealers Assn · Planet Bike · Joseph Abrahams · Anonymous · Randall Barker · Jerry Blanchard · Stacie Blaskowski & Rentabikenow.com David Lamberton · Frank Briscoe · John Britting · Kevin Brunk · Donna Buchholz · Jeff Budd Bronze: 3G Mobility · Anderson ZurMuehlen & Co. PC · Hike and Bike Italy! · · Joyce Casey · Kenny Corbett · Anne Cowan · Jon Curtis & Mary Carol Winkler · Kay Deitz ESRI · First Interstate Bank · Gateway Printing · Lorain County Visitors Bureau · · William Delvie · Michael Dubovsky · Fred Ecks · Joe Golden · Glen Graham · George & Rocky Mtn Business Products · Sea to Sky Trail Joanne Harper · Todd Hart · Eddie Jayne · Shawn Kennedy · Robert & Susan Kladiva · Yvonne LeFave · Raymond LÈger · Howard & Rita Maher · William Montigny · Edward & Crys Moore · Jeff Scott Mulder · Allan Parkey · Cyril Pasche · Angela Paterna · Ann Pokora · · · · · Leaders $500-$999 Jan Richey Donna Sakson & Jonathan Mark Steven Seto Julian Shepard Brandon · · · · · · Melanie Alexander · Robert Allen · American Center for Philanthropy · Anonymous (5) · Sitzmann Mary Ann Smith Peter Strause Roland Sturm Jeff Sweet Charles Taylor · · · Jody Auldridge · Peter Backman · Mark Battey · David Black · Jan & Ron Brunk · Lamonte Charles Thibault Sue Tiller Dan & Lora Van Epp Rob & Pat Wheelhouse · · · · · Burt Chattanooga Bicycle Club David Childers Kenneth Chisholm Jr. John Cibinic Benefactor Members · · · · · · Alan Cole Mike Cruz Marc Currie Suanne Davendonis Stephen Davis Mark Day Aero Tech Designs · Larsen Anderson Family · Anonymous · Harald Borrmann · Susan · · · · · Bill Detzner Jacques Devaud Michael Dreiling David & Carol Eibling Morris Erickson Brierley & Paul Fredsell · Randy Brimm · Chris Casebolt · Bruce Coffey · John Dentlinger · · · Tom Fortmann Michael Freed Anita Frijhoff & Mark Takeuchi John Gardner, Amishland · Kenneth Dowling · Frederick & Barbara Eames · Karl Eggers · Sarah Epstein · Frederick · · · · · & Lakes Andrew Gilligan Anna Ginn Richard Goldman John & Christine Graff Ray Fellin · John Fey · Anthony Fitzgerald · Mason Flagg · Kristi Fogle · Bettina George Family · · · · · · Hanson Paul Hanson Randolph Harrison Family Michael Held Karen Herold Fred & Richard Goldman · John & Christine Graff · Greg Hansen · Jim Holland · Peter Horan · Meg · · · · · Mary Hesselgrave Alan Higginson Max Horn Robert Hughes Robert Huizenga Andy Hummon · Walter Jung · Robert Kamstra · Tom & Amy Kauffman · Sally Keating · Michael · · · · · Huppert Michael Johnson & Carol Bessey Walter Jung T.S. Kelso Jacob Kirkman Keating · Edward Kleinbard · Thomas & Katherine Kottke · Keith Kreycik Family · Alan · · · Sam Leffler & Cynthia Livingston Kenneth Martin William McCusker Family Microsoft Macrae Family · Gary May · Dean Mcclayland · Brian McCrodden Family · Charles McGinley · · · · Matching Gifts Program Jeffrey Miller Missoulians on Bicycles Billie Moore Family · Robert Mendelson · Michael Miller · Michael Miller · Donald Mullen Jr. · Peter O`Keeffe · J · · · Rebecca & Riley Newman Tim Oberle Donna O’Neal & Linda Alexionok James Parris Paul Oxer · David Pancost · Richard Pasiwit · Bruce Richbourg · Susan Rosenblatt · William · · · · Daniel Peterson Reuben Peterson Family Pfizer Foundation Matching Gift Program & Catherine Ruhling · John Schneider · Joshua Short · Randall Simpson · Timothy Smith · · · · Susan Pitcher John Preston Preston Family Charitable Fund Myrna Rafalovich Terry · Ken Snider · Marsha Stanton · Don Strachan · Brent Studler · Paul Stueck · Harold Tarry · · · · Reed Alice Ryen Mike Samuelson Karl (Max) Sherman Family Brian Sindt & Barbara Family · James Terry · Ian Ward · George Wendel · Anne Winkes · Douglas Wirth · Tom · · · · · Hays Jon Spallino Pamela Stewart John Stolzenberg Sandra Sussman Robert Woodbury · Dick Wright Family · Lance Yeoman · Troy & Kimberly Zeleznik Sutherland · John Swanson · The Columbus Foundation · John Thomas · David Timm ·

ADVENTURE CYCLING ASSOCIATION 2010 ANNUAL REPORT 47 Adventure Cycling donors (continued)

$100-$249 Krumrey · Paul Kuenstner · David Kuplic · Loreta Kurkowski · Brian Kurotsuchi · Don Kusler Ellen Aagaard Family · Will Ackles · Ken & Vickie Adams · Scott Adams · Robert Adams · Charles Kyle Family · James Lamanna Family · David Lamb · Randy Landau · Cameron Family · Aero Tech Designs · Charles Albert · Larry & Janet Albert · John Aldridge & Diane Lane · Noah Lansner · David Lapinski · James Larocco · Guy Laronche · Bruce LaRowe · Muri · Faith Allen · James Allison Family · Jim Alsup · Erik Andersen · K Tucker & Karen Pablo Lattes · Marvin Laurence · Alan Lavine · Philip Lee · Victor Lee · Jennifer Leemann · Andersen · Chris Anderson · Robert Anderson · Barbara Anderson · Scott Anderson · Mark Steve Leibman · Laura Leso · Larry Lessley · Joshua Levy · Jeff Lincoln Family · Richard Annas · Anonymous (56) · Susan Anstrand · Nancy Apatov · Arlington Heights Bicycle Club Lindroth · Jo Ann Linrud · Lawrence Logan · Joe Long Family · Bryan Lorber · Robert Loving · Michelle Asire · Jill Aspinall & Rick Molz · Mary Lou Avanzino · B.I.K.E.S. · Nate Bachman, Jr. · Richard Ludwig · Canon Luerkens · Donald Lundberg · Kevin & Linda MacAfee · BachmanFoundation · Norma Back Family · Karen & Jim Badgley · Sally & Robert Baird · Douglas MacDonald · Mary Madison · Robert Madsen · Jack Majni · Teri Maloughney · Diane Baker · Bruce Baker · Barry Balliet · Joe Bandsma Jr Family · Bruce Banister · Joseph Keith & Marianne Mann · Henry J Mann · David Markman · Glenn Marks · Greg & Guyda Barolin Family · Michael Baron · Tony Barrett & Marguerite Kelly · Mathias Barringer · Russ Marr · Steve Marsh · Don Martin · Kevin Martin · Tony Martino · Charles Marvin · Art Mathis Barringer · Jeff Bass · Bob Bauer · Mike Beauchamp · Jerry Beck Jr. · Joseph & Jeanne · Steven Matney · Valerie Matthews · Charles Matza · Curt Mavis · Robert Mayton · Michael Becker · Duane Beckmann · Nicole Belenky · Barbara Belli · David & Catherine Belli · Peter McCall · Lorraine McCall Family · Kenneth McCaughey Family · Laura McClafferty · Mary Belmont Family · Bill Bender · Jimmie Benedict Family · Elliott Bennett · Veronica Benson McCoy · Richard McDonnell · Robert & Elizabeth McGuire · Blake McKinney · James Family · John Berg · Ken Berger · Barry Bernfeld · Bicycle Alliance of Washington · Greg McMasters Family · Jonathan McMath MD · Donna McMillen · Jeff McMullen · Krista Binder Family · David Bleil · Bonnie Ryder Bliss · Allan Block · Wayne Boettner · Fred McNamee · Jack & Sharon McWatters · Lindsey McWilliams · Patricia Mead Family · Bollhoffer · Gary Boorman · Michael Borck · Donald Bost · Daniel Bourbon · Gerald Boutelle Medimmune LLC · Bryan Meier · Gary Melton · Victoria Menold · Jeanne Mervine · Dan · Barry Boyce Family · Delen Boyd Family · Ed Boyle · Benson Branch Family · Barbara Meyer · David Meyers · H Kyle Midkiff Family · Bob Miller & Jan Leimert · Thomas Miller · Bravos & Paul Gunkel · Jim Brennaman · N Breuner · Mark Brewer · Randy Brimm · Frank Gary Miller · Matthew Miller & Janet Kaseda · Michael Miller · Pam Millington · Frank & Deena Briscoe · Larry Brock · Shelagh Brodersen Family · Joseph Brookreson · Michael Brown · Mitchell · Jeff Mitchell · Tim & Ann Moe · Richard & Kristy Moeller · Bill & Suki Molina · William Harold Brown · Barbara Brown · William Brown Jr. Family · Jim Brown · Dave Brown · Montigny · Charles Moore Family · Kent Moore · Marci Moore & Pam Williams · Owen Donald Bryan Family · Steven Buchtel · Leslie Bullock · Margarett & Fenton Burke · Carl Moore Jr. · Brenda Moore Family · Thomas Moore · Michael Moore · Larry Moormeier · Mary Burns · Scott Burstein · Paul Butler · Wayne & Anne Byrd · Jerry Calkins · Thomas Callahan Moreira · Peter Morgan Family · Dan Morin · Jan Morin · Ruth Morley · Lloyd Morris · Lois · Robert Callaway · Campus Cycles · John Carter · Jerry Caruso · Joyce Casey · Thomas Moss · Norm Moyer · Marion Murfey Family · Barbara Murock & Carl Fertman · Judy & Mike Catalina · James Cavanaugh · Edward Cebron Family · CFC 3 Rivers Pikes Peak Region · Murphy · Jerry & Suzanne Murphy · Jeff Myers · James Nafziger · Allan Nagel · James Nash CFC Chicago Area · CFC Coastal Bend · CFC Dayton · CFC Fort Campbell Area · CFC · Brian Nelson · Gary Neumayer Family · Dennis Neuzil · Robin Norris · North Iowa Touring Gateway · CFC Hawaii Pacific Area · CFC Kitsap and Mason Counties WA · CFC of the Club Inc · Susan Notorangelo, PAC Tour · Ron Nunes Family · Tina Nutty · Richard Nye · Capital Area · CFC Sioux Empire · CFC Smoky Mountain Region · CFC Southeastern Richard O`Brien · Judy O`Hare · Richard Oakey · Vincent O’Brien · George Olmstead · Curtis Michigan · CFC Southtrust · CFC Special Account One · CFC Twin Cities Area/Greater Olson · John Olson · Richard Opper · John Ortgiesen · James & Sara Orvick · John Minnesota-Dakotas · CFC United Way for the Greater New Orleans Area · Kenneth Chace Osborne · John Overton Jr. · J Paul Oxer · Elizabeth Page · Ray Pais · Bill Pakenas · Joel · David Chapman · Paul Charow · John Chelf & Katie Monahan · James Cherco · Donna Palmer · Palos Verdes Bike Club · Frank & Marcia Parrish · Peter Parsonson · Cary Payne Cherrier · Chesapeake Bay Area CFC · charles chesney · Frank Chew Family · Ellen Chilikas · Ann Pellegrino · Steve Pensinger · Paul Perret · Kent Peters · Monica Peterson · Bruce · Donald Christensen Family · Ronald Christenson · Larry Ciaffoni Family · Nancy Clark · Petitt · Don Pettit Family · Kimberly Pettit · Maurice Peve · Paul Phillippi DDS · Judy Phillips Patrick Clark Family · Tom Cline · Lancaster Bicycle Club · Ryan Clutter Family · David · Bill Pickering · John Pierce · Chris Pierce · Jim Pietrick · Roberta Pilette · Robert Piper · Cohen Family · Todd Collart · Terence Connor · Joseph Cook · Jim Cook · Thomas Coon Kevin & Suni Pitman · Steven Pohnert · Ann Pokora · Thomas Pope · Don Potts · Anthony · Susan Cooper · Todd Copley · Max Corley · Arthur Corte · Dolly Craft · Rebecca Craft · & Cecilia Powers · W Preecs · Marjorie Pries · Linda Prine · Leonard Prosnitz · John Prugh David & Pamela Craig · Clay Cralle · Will Cronyn · Mike Crosby & Marsha Brown · Thomas · Margaret Quinn · A. Mark Rabin · James Ralston · H William Ranelle · Patricia Ravicz · Paul Crowell · Gay Crowley · Karen Crowley Family · Keith Culver · Richard Cuper · William Curtis Rawson · Cheryl & Fred Rectanus · Joel Reed · Marvin Reed · Dean Reed · Peter Reeve · · Tommy Daigle · David Dangerfield · Mike Danisch · Andy Dannenberg Family · Audrey Diana Reeves · Paul Rehkopf · REI Charitable Action Campaign · Bryan Reid Family · Dannenberg · Andrew Daoust · Chris Davenport · Dave’s Bicycle Repair · Susan Davis · George Reinhardt Family · Ron Reitz · David Reuteler · Thomas Rice · Lindsay Richards · Hilary Davis · Jill Davis · David & Vanessa Dayton · Arati de la RoziËre · Josh DeBruyn · Maria Richards · David Richmond · James Rick · Mary Ricker · Bob Rineer · Craig Cecilia DeCook Family · James Degel · James DeGraffenreidt Jr. · John & Carolyn DeHority Ringgenberg · Melvin Roberts · Richard Robinson · Marcia Rodney Family · Frank Rogers · · William DeLoache Family · Thomas Derby III · Donald Devine · Lori DeVito · Garry Devol · Forrest Rogers · Mark Rohrer · Sean Rooney Family · Walt Roscello · Susan Rosenblatt · Bruce Devoy Family · Jack & Ruth Diamond · Tom Dice · Melvin Dick · Robert Diebold · Stuart Rosner · Jerry Ross · John Rothhaar · Terry Rudd · Robert Ruf · William & Catherine Gene Dinkelman Family · Don Dobbs · Gary Dodson & Rita Jensen · Terry Dolar · Ted & Ruhling · Jeri Rush · Dave Russell · John Sabatino · Maria Saiz Family · Karen Salinger · Karen Donnelly · Ramsey Doran Family · John Downer · Elizabeth Downie · Stephen Doyle Debi Sanchez · Stuart Sanford · Santa Fe Century & Trail Comm · Santiam Spokes Inc · · Elizabeth Drum Family · Gerald Dubois · Michael Dubrow · Thomas Dugdale MD · William Mike Sapp · Don Sarton · Michele Sasmor & David Strohschein · Raymond Satter · Glenn Duggan · Edgar Duncan · Tom Duquette Family · Adela Eannarino · Earls Cyclery & Fitness Savarese · H David Scarbro Family · Peter Schleider · Gerald Schmidt · Art Schoeller · Tim · East Carolina Velo Club · Rob Eastwood · Michael Eells Family · Paul Ehlers · El Paso Schottman · Chris Schraw · Kathy Schubert · Bruce & Lenora Schuchert · Elizabeth Corporation · Annmarie Eldering Family · Robert Eltgroth & Mary Paquet · John Engelhardt Schwartz · Larry Scott · James & Katherine Sebastian · Janice Seeger · Robert Seibert · Josh English · Hans Erdman, St. Brendan’s Two-Wheeled Explorer · Darrell Erickson · Jan Family · Chad Seizert Family · Gerry & Anne Serafino · Maureen Sevigny · John Seyfarth · Erikson · Frank Evans · Doug Favreau · Shirley & Charles Feaux · Kelly & Raymond Felins · Charles Shackett · Sandra Shaner · Philip Shanholtzer · Nathan Shapiro · Ellen Shapiro · Warren Fellingham · Bernard Feshbach · Michael Finn · Anthony Fischer Family · James Sandra Sharp · Jamie Shea · Joan Short · David Shuey · Brian Shunamon · Marion Sibley Fischer · Pamela Fischer & Scott Spaulding · Fred Flanders · Gary Flannery · Rocky Flint · · Cyril Sidun · Dick Siefers Family · Joel Siegel · Jill Siegrist · Jane Sierk · Neal Sigmon · Gregory Forrester · Lee Francis & Michelle Gittler · Brian Frank, Hammer Nutrition · Quincy Chuck Simpson · Gregg Singer · Gail Skinner Family · Laurie Skipper · Samantha Skove · Franklin · Bill Frederics · Thomas Friske · Gwendolyn Fuehring · Michael Fuhrman · Ken Jeff Slaughter & Sally Spieker · Pamela Small Family · Norman Smeal · R Emery Smiser · Fuirst · Tim Furlong · Donald Gale · Joe Galloway · Joyce Gammon · William Garrett · Hans Jack Smith · Julian Peter Smith Family · JoAnn Smith · Steve Smith · Chris Smith · Ronald Gasterland · Bob Gaylord · Kenneth Gelley · Chuck Gerteis · Alan Gettelman · Steve Smith · Shelden Smulevitz · Cindy Snider · Chuck Snodgrass · Sheila Snyder · Sockeye Giardini · Robert Gibbs · Claudia Gibson · Harry Gilger · Martha Gingrich · Mark Ginsburg Cycle Company · David Sogg & Lisa Parker · Martin Solomon · Michael Sorgi · Virginia & · Myles Glisson · Joe Golden · Armand Gonsoulin · David Goodearl · Joy Goodman · Pam Leslie Sorrow · South Jersey Wheelmen · John Spallone · James Spear · Andy Speier Goodman · Sue Gore Family · Linda Gould · Tom Granvold · Ed Graves · Lisa Gray Family Family · David Spencer · Steven Spindler · Thaxton Springfield · Pamela Standley & William · Clay Greene · Greg Grose · Patrick Gross · Marc Grossman · Nancy Grossmann McVie Elwell · Robin & Kitty Stauffer · Gary Steen · Dave Steffen Family · Morris Stemp · Anne · Phil Gustin · Karen Hagewood · Mark Hall Family · Diane Haltigan Family · George Hamilton Stephenson · Steve Stewart · David Stiger · Donnan Stoicovy · Arlo Stoltenberg · Holiday · Helen Hammer · Vernon Hammett · Susan Hann Family · Glenn & Carin Hanna · Selden Storck · Kathy Storm · Tim Strand & Sukey Pfirman · Albert & Alice Stratton · Gary Stroup · Hannah Family · John & Kathy Hannon · Michael Hanslits · Howard Harden Family · Paul Stueck · Hillary Sullivan · Kevin Sullivan · Sterling Swan Family · Harry Swanson · Tom Jonathan Hardis · Peter Harkness · Laurie Harmon · Eric Hart · Donald Harter · David Sykes Family · Rob Tarakan · Ski Tarnosky · Gregg Taylor · Paul Temme · Louis Testoni · Harwood · Richard Haskins · Alan Hathway · Thomas Hauser · Erin Hauser Family · The Directory · Linda Thomas · Bob Thomas · Jeffrey Thompson · Dan Thompson · Debra Hawkeye Bicycle Association · Russell Heath · Patrick Heffley · Dave Heisley · Robert Thorsheim · Alice Tiernan · Tom Timmer · Jerad Tintera · Jean Tipton · Linda Toelke · Heldman · Harry Hellerman · Nancy Helm Family · Caroline & George Helmkamp · Randall Armond Tomassetti · Chris Tompsett · James Towson · Carol Tremble · Patrick Tsai · Scott Henningson · Jean Hess & Lorna Gibson · Hewlett-Packard · Nancy Heywood · Brian Turner · Jonathan Udis · Roger Van Andel Family · Richard Van Zante · Bob Varady · Charlie Higgins Family · William Higgins · Babette Hiles · Lamont Hill · John Hiltner Family · Eric Versteeg · Mary Jo Veverka · Buzz Victor Family · Sid Voss · Carol Waaser · Travis Walden Hittinger Family · Larry Hodgin · Brice Holland · Jim Holland · Holland’s Bicycles · G · Rickard Walk · David Walker · Andy Walker Family · Steve Walther · Jacquette Ward & Holloway Family · Gary Holton · Peter Horan · Carol Horner · Joyce Hounsell · Thomas Howard Shafer · Steven Ward · Karl Wardrop · James Ware · Ken Wargo · Dwight Warren Howard · Cheryl Howard · James Howell · Louise Huber · Todd Huckins · Raymond · Michele Waters Family · Harold & Nan Watson · Karen Watt · Robert Wavrin · R. & M. Hudson · Kim Hynek · Illowa Bi-State CFC · John Ingold · Nurmi Ingram Family · Robert Weeks · Jeffrey Weeks · Dave & Bobbi Wehrs · Bob & Melinda Welter · Michelle Wenk · Ingrum · Kerry & Mary Irons · Doug Irwin · John Ivie · Charles Jacob · Trina Jacobson · John Wescott · Westerville Bike Club · W Mark Wheeler III · Juliette Wheeler · Rob & Pat Walter James · Christopher James · John Janney · Bill Jansa · Bob Johnson · Gary Wheelhouse · Kenneth Whipple Jr. · Michael White · John Wider Family · Chester Wilcox · Johnson · Michael Johnson · Ken Johnson Family · Dale Johnson · Patricia Johnson · Keith David Wilder · Steve Wilkinson · Stephen Williams · Todd Williams · Frederic Wilson Family Johnson · Christopher Jones · Harlan Jones & Kathy Mielke · Edwin Jones · Charles Jordan · Delmar Wipf · Barb Wolfrum · Tom Woodbury · Hilary Woodward · J Marie Yingling Family III · Howard Josephs Family · Robert Kamstra · Pamela Kane · Keith Kaneko Family · Leslie · Betsy Yingling · Ed Yoder · R Clifford Young & Joyce Farnsworth · Jim Young Family · Chris Kappel · Angela & Jim Karanas · Jim Karr & Jane Garrett · Robert Keegan · Gary Keiser · Zarow · Barb Zaveduk · Paul Zykofsky Bryan Keith · John Keith · Anne Kellett · Andrew Kellum · Judy Kelly · Clark Kemble · Garth Kennedy · Marcia Kestner · Kettle House Brewing Co. · Michael Kibby · Mitchell Kiesler We also want to thank the numerous members who gave special donations up Family · Henry Kilker · Jill King Family · Stan King · Sue Ellen Kingsley Family · Kathleen to $100. Thank you very much! Kingsley · William Kingston · Tosha Knight · Jerry Koch · Gretchen Koehler · Paul & Anne Koenig · Timothy Koenig · Kathleen Kolar · John Konther · Kurt Kovac · Michael Krabach · Paul Kramer · David Kroop Family · Jennifer Krueger · Marlyn Krueger · Philip Kruger · Art

48 ADVENTURE CYCLING ASSOCIATION 2010 ANNUAL REPORT 2010 Fiscal Summary

Merchandise Sales 20% Revenues and Advertising 5% Expenses: This diagram Administration 5% illustrates where Adventure Cycling’s revenues come Donations/Grants 12% Fundraising 5% from and how the money is

spent. In fiscal year 2010, Program Services 90% we were able to allocate 90% of our expenses Tours 35% directly toward our mission of inspiring people of all ages to travel by bicycle. Revenues Expenses

Membership 28%

Adventure Cycling Association Adventure Cycling Association Statement of Revenues and Expenses Balance Sheet

Revenues FY2010 FY2009 Assets FY2009 FY2008 Merchandise Net Sales $245,013 $218,944 Current Assets $650,243 $421,646 Membership $1,133,882 $1,137,471 Long-term Assets $485,295 $458,573 Tours $1,441,064 $1,168,799 Total Assets $1,135,538 $880,219 Donations/Grants $469,219 $372,792 Advertising $210,029 $177,024 Liabilities Other $5,960 $7,895 Current Liabilities $534,593 $568,932 Net Operating Revenue $3,505,167 $3,082,925 Long-term Liabilities $28,548 $35,461 Total Liabilities $563,141 $604,393 Expenses Support Services $362,188 $348,506 Net Assets Program Services Total Fund Balance $572,397 $275,826 Routes & Mapping $344,974 $301,235 Total Liabilities and Net Assets $1,135,538 $880,219 Outreach $51,240 $36,194 Publications $711,266 $730,038 Adventure Cycling Association is a nonprofit charitable organization as qualified Tours $1,253,358 $1,076,250 under Section 501(c)(3) of the Internal Revenue Code. A copy of the annual audit is Membership Services $485,570 $530,874 available at www.adventurecycling.org/audit or by calling (800) 755-2453. Total Program Services $2,846,408 $2,674,591

Increase (Decrease) in Net Assets $296,571 $59,828

ple i S g e r G ple i S g e r G

Crossing the U.S. 13 times, William Montigny is no stranger to the Adventure Cycling Several international cyclists swap stories in our cyclists’ lounge. From left to right, office in Missoula. On this trip, from Cape Cod, MA to Seattle, WA, William signed up Barbara Seymour, Australia; Stuart Woolger, UK; Fred Seymour, Australia; Gosse as a Life Member. He also became the first person to do so while cycling. Membership Koolstra, Netherlands; Klaas Van Der Els, Netherlands. All five of this group were Director Julie Huck had to mount up to receive his membership form. TransAm riders — the Seymours on a tandem and both 77-years-old.

ADVENTURE CYCLING ASSOCIATION 2010 ANNUAL REPORT 49 ADVENTURE CYCLING’S SECOND ANNUAL BICYCLE TRAVEL PHOTO COMPETITION After reviewing more than 700 submissions from all corners of the capture the adventure, thrill, and beauty of traveling by bicycle. Earth, our second annual photo competition has come down to these Enjoy. And next year, send us your best shots — maybe you’ll seven images. Others were worthy, but these stood out as the most see them printed here. compelling of the lot. Stunning in their diversity, each manages to For more info go to: adventurecycling.org/photocontest/

FIRST PLACE (above) The judges were unanimous in choosing this shot for the top spot. Without resorting to any digital magic, Horst Hammerschmidt captured this surreal scene of riders gliding on a thin layer of water on the Salar de Uyuni, the world’s largest salt lake, located in Bolivia.

RUNNER UP (right) Cliche sunsets must be submit- ted to every photo contest, but Tom Allen captured something special in his shot from the Sudan Sahara. The crisp sil- hoette of bike and mosquito net are a visual treat.

50 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 51 Honorable Mention (left) Peter McQueen snapped this photo of two Portland- bound riders climbing a switch- back on the old highway above the Columbia River Gorge. Honorable Mention (below) Shelter on a middle- school football field in Max Meadows, Virginia, by Jesse Merz, who started his TransAm ride as a solo cyclist but met up with a group that started in San Francisco. Said Jesse, “We rode together all the way to Yorktown and developed a very close friendship. The ride was without a doubt one of the highlights of my life, and I’m sure my new TransAm friends would agree.”

Honorable Mention (left, Honorable Mention above) Scott Janowiak’s shot (below) Ellen van der Zwan of the Buckingham Fountain in took this photo on Ak-Baital Chicago reminds us that grand pass at 13,500 feet on the bicycle tours and vistas are not Kyrgyzstan/Tajikistan border. confined to the countryside. The “Snow fell on us the day before. skyline mimics the spine of a At this altitude cycling is tough, spectacular mountain range. the snow made it even tougher!”

Honorable Mention (above) A cyclist rides below fluttering prayer flags in Tibet. Photographer Joe Cruz took the time and effort to find a unique viewpoint in what might otherwise have been an ordinary shot.

50 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 51 Curves in the Road “Solo Power” Making time to live your dreams — in this lifetime by Jill Homer

A strip of warm pink light still graced the tree tips mind that each of us only has one. Women, especially, seem prone to mak- at 11 PM. Weary but smiling, I veered off the Haines ing excuses for why they can’t pursue Highway and traveled a mile down a gravel road their dreams. We have families to take care of, jobs to complete, house projects to before parking my bike beneath a friendly-looking tackle. We’re afraid or unwilling to travel by ourselves. Eventually, pedaling dreams stand of spruce. I unpacked my panniers, rolled fall so far to the wayside that someone out my bivy sack and sleeping bag, and carried my who has the fantastic allure of Alaska in her backyard believes she has to wait until food bag to a bear-wary spot about 200 yards away. “another lifetime” to explore it. I munched on a tuna sandwich as the sky faded I wished I could show the woman in Haines just how simple it really was. from light to dark blue. The cool Yukon Planning a solo bicycle tour of the Golden air was so quiet I could hear my heart, Circle wasn’t a life-disrupting decision. still beating hard. Only the boreal forest I took one day off work to give myself a surrounded me, empty of humans for three-day weekend. I purchased a three- many miles. Realizing this, deep solitude way ticket on the ferry, from my home in filled me with a self-satisfying sort of Juneau to Haines, riding to Skagway, and warmth. taking the ferry back to Juneau. I outfit- About 10 hours earlier, I wheeled my ted my Ibex Corrida touring bike with a bicycle off the Alaska Marine Highway rear rack and two panniers, and packed ferry in Haines. It was 12:45 in the after- light to lessen the workload. I steeled my noon, the inlet glittered beneath the hot “go-it-alone” confidence by including August sunlight, and a wave of nervous- bear mace, repair tools and supplies, rain ness washed over me. The three-day gear, a medical kit, and a water bottle

semi-loop around the Haines, Alaska, equipped with a purifying filter. ji ll ho m e r and Klondike highways would be my And of course it wasn’t easy. After first solo bicycle tour, and it was an She shook her head. “Oh no. I don’t I rode 145 miles the first day, I awoke ambitious one at that. I stopped near the have that kind of time. My husband with the first light of dawn to continue offloading dock for a pannier-check and doesn’t want to ride the whole thing, down the dusty, dry Alaska Highway. subsequent gut-check for the 370 miles either.” The temperature rose above 90 degrees, that lay ahead. “Oh, I see,” I said. “I have to rush a bit unusually hot for the Yukon Territory, As I was packing, a woman who was to squeeze this trip into my schedule. I even in August. I stopped to fill my also disembarking the ferry approached took just one day off work. I’ll be on the bottle at every available water source and me. “Where are you riding?” she asked. ferry back to Juneau by Friday and back still ran low. Another 125 miles brought “I’m going to ride the Golden to work on Saturday — if all goes well.” me to Whitehorse, where I collapsed in Circle,” I said. “Up to Haines Junction “Are you alone?” she asked. the porch chair of a friend’s house and and Whitehorse, and then down to “Yup. All alone.” polished off three chicken burgers. On Skagway,” I said. She shook her head. “I could never do Saturday I woke to a thick frost and tem- “Oh, I have always wanted to do that,” that. Another lifetime, perhaps.” peratures in the low 30s. I hit the road at she said. “I live here in Haines. On week- As I pedaled north into the snow- 4:00 AM and fought an amazing headwind ends I ride my bike along the Chilkat capped Chilkat Mountains along a wild- back into the mountains, climbed to the River, up the way you’re headed.” flower-lined highway, I wondered how high alpine moonscape that was once the “That’s great,” I said. “You should many times people say this quietly to Klondike Gold Rush trail, and plummeted definitely do it sometime.” themselves — “Another lifetime.” Never off the pass in a terrifyingly steep descent

52 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 53 into Skagway, to wrap up a 110-mile day at 12:30 PM. By 3:00 PM, I was back on the ferry, bound for Juneau, where I returned to work the following day. No, my Golden Circle tour wasn’t easy. On the morning of day three, I was sunburned and deeply fatigued. I stopped to take a break along the sweeping sand dunes of a glacial moraine affectionately known as the “Carcross Desert.” I ran my fingers through the cool sand and marveled at the stark mountains tower- ing over my head. I had come a long way in three days. And I had done it completely on my own. I made my own schedule and took care of my own needs. And despite the physical challenges, the trip itself had been surprisingly simple. Pedal, eat, sleep, repeat. Life on a bicycle usually is quite simple — which one should not confuse with easy. But the best endeavors in life rarely are. There are always excuses, obligations, and limitations. But life is too short to save dreams for “another lifetime.” You don’t have to carve out large blocks of time and money for bicycle touring — sometimes the best adventures can begin right in your backyard. And it doesn’t have to be a 370-mile weekend tour through Alaska and the Yukon. You can just pull out a map, pick a place near your house that you always wanted to visit, ride there on Saturday, spend the night, and return Sunday. The options are limitless, and sim- pler than you might think. @^aOWUZÀ 6a_` This month, Adventure Cycling Association launched a website to help ji ll ho m e r people plan these mini-adventures. Bikeovernights.com offers resources and 553[` 0Q8adQ%QWRNGTU inspiration for backyard bicycle vaca- HQTEQORCEV tions. Within the website are stories, tips VTCPURQTV and how-tos about short tours, whether µ9JGGNU it’s a solo trip to a state park or pedaling /KFPKIJV with friends and family to a luxurious $NWG bed and breakfast. The mantra of bikeovernights.com is “Don’t wait to go cross- country — go overnight.” The aim of the new site is to promote the idea that not every bicycle tour has to be thousands of miles long, cross continents, or travel through exotic locations. With a little planning and determination, open-road dreams can become weekend realities. Don’t wait until your next lifetime. Go now. UWTN[DKMGUEQO This is Jill Homer’s first column for Adventure Cyclist.

52 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 53 Mechanical Advantage whoa, Slow Down! Braking on a bicycle by Jan Heine

After learning to ride a bike, the next challenge is learning to stop. Slowing down safely in the shortest possible distance requires knowledge and experience. You may remember riding a bike with a coaster brake when you were a child. You could lock the rear wheel, then skid for a long time. In this article, I will explain how you can stop much quicker by using your front brake and by keeping your wheels turning. Don’t Lock Up wearing seat belts. When a rider goes over You can brake only as hard as the fric- the bars, it almost always is caused by the tion between the tires and road allows. A rider flying forward as the bike suddenly skidding tire has less friction than one that slows down. The rider’s knees can get adheres to the road. On pavement, lock- caught on the handlebars, dragging the ing up your wheels not only causes loss bike along as the rider goes over, however, of control, but also loss of braking power. the rider already was flying forward before (On gravel and snow, your brake power the bike’s rear wheel left the ground. increases when you skid, as the tire pushes When you brake hard on a bicycle, up a mound of gravel or snow.) you have to brace yourself by locking Front Brake Works Best your elbows and pushing your body As the bike slows down, the inertia of back, so your arms are as close to hori- bike and rider continue to push forward. zontal as possible. Pushing your body This transfers most of your weight to backward also puts more weight towards

the front wheel and improves its traction the rear, which further reduces your risk jan heine (friction on the road). In this scenario, Jan’s son shows proper braking technique: of lifting the rear wheel. your rear wheel is loaded only lightly He braces his body by locking his elbows Slippery Conditions and cannot transmit much force onto and sliding backward on the saddle. The Most high-quality bicycle tires offer the road. Therefore, braking the front front tire is compressing as the weight of plenty of traction on wet roads, but oil, wheel is far more effective than braking bike and rider shift forward. The rear tire dust, and water can mix to form a very the rear. (For the same reason, cars and barely touches the ground, so he uses the slippery surface. This is especially acute motorbikes have much more powerful front brake only. when it first rains after a long period of front brakes than rear ones.) dry weather, before the rain washes the During hard braking on a bicycle, the your front brake fails for some reason. road surface clean of oil and dust. Also rear wheel barely touches the ground. Even Brace Yourself watch out when water sprinklers moisten touching your rear brake slightly may Many cyclists are concerned about the road surface during dry months! break traction and make the bike fishtail going over the handlebars and think When you encounter slippery sur- without increasing your braking power. that if they apply their front brake hard, faces, brake less hard and augment your Thus, the front brake is the only one that they’ll rotate around the front wheel brake power with your rear brake. Ride should be used under most conditions. and flip over. While this may happen on defensively to account for the longer The rear brake comes in handy if the extremely steep downhills, it typically stopping distances. road is so slippery that traction is lim- doesn’t happen on the road. Ice offers almost no traction, unless ited. You shouldn’t brake hard anyhow, Most cars have more powerful brakes you ride on studded tires. If you encoun- so the weight transfer to the front wheel and a more forward weight distribution ter ice on the road, do not brake, nor is slight. In that situation, two wheels than bikes, yet they do not flip over when pedal, nor turn. Just relax and keep the provide more traction than one. The rear braking hard, however, the occupants bike on its course until you are on grippy brake also serves in an emergency, if of the car can fly forward if they are not pavement again.

54 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 55 Overheating Rims vert the potential energy into heat very stop once in a while and check your rims Brakes use friction to convert kinetic slowly, and your bicycle rims have time with a wet finger. If the rim sizzles, it’s energy into heat. This means that your to dissipate the heat. The down side is too hot. Wait for a few minutes until it brake components can get hot. (Race-car that it will take a long time to descend has cooled down enough to touch. brakes get so hot that they glow in the the mountain (and be less fun). Drum and Disc Brakes dark.) Your bicycle rim is large enough The speed at which many “careful” On gravel roads, traction can be limited to dissipate most of the heat but, during cyclists like to keep their bikes on steep and hard braking is not a good way to prolonged braking, you can heat up the descents, between 15 and 30 mph, is the keep your speed in check. Separating the rim so much that the tire begins to melt. least safe. You lose elevation fast enough brake surface from the rim can be useful. The liquefied rubber lubricates the tire that potential energy is lost at a rapid Then you can brake continuously without so that it may slide off the rim, allowing rate, but too slow for wind resistance to melting your tires. Drum or disc brakes the tube inside to explode. A blow-out absorb most of it. As a result, you brake offer a solution here, but it is important to is the result. With tubular tires, the glue so much that you may overheat your know that these brakes also can overheat holding the tire on the rim can melt, tires. and lose their effectiveness so you should causing the tire to come off. What if you are uncomfortable let- only apply the rear brake and keep the Unlike race cars, cyclists do not have ting your bike roll at very high speeds? front brake ready in case you have to slow enough horsepower to overheat their What if the road has turns that require down in a hurry. And be careful not to brakes on level ground. Long descents you to slow down? I have experimented touch the “drag” brake during a stop — in the mountains are a different matter. with different braking techniques dur- it can get extremely hot. If you drop thousands of feet, a lot of ing long descents and found that braking Practice potential energy is converted into kinetic very hard, but infrequently, causes less Practice braking hard until it becomes energy (speed). Even without pedaling, heating of the rim. If you are uncomfort- intuitive. Knowing that you can stop you can go very fast. On a long mountain able riding faster than 30 mph, let the quickly will make you a more confident descent, you have two options: bike roll until it reaches that speed, then and safer rider. 1. Don’t brake. The friction of wind brake very hard until you have slowed to resistance will absorb most of the poten- 15 mph. Let the bike roll again until you Jan Heine is the editor of Bicycle Quarterly, a magazine about the culture, technology, and history of tial energy. reach 30 mph, then repeat. If you have cycling. His blog “Off the Beaten Path” is at http:// 2. Go very slow, so you lose only little doubts — or a bike with small wheels janheine.wordpress.com. elevation per minute. That way, you con- that cannot dissipate as much heat —

CYCLISTS’ PARADISE A Black Hills or Mt. Rushmore Black Hills, Colorado Bike Tour is South Dakota truly Paradise Found...... REGISTER NOW to take advantage of the Early Bird Discount. Must book by April 1st. NEW ...... COLORADO ROCKIES

...... TOUR FOR 2011

bike tours

For More Information & Tour Schedules Including Private Group Tours go online. The Relaxed Adventure Company dakotabiketours.com Dakota Bike Tours operates under special use permit of the Black Hills National Forest

54 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 55 Life Member Profile steve spindler For this life member, it all revolves around the bicycle by Jill Homer

Steve Spindler has met a lot of people in his people who hadn’t heard where I was three decades as a bicycle tourist. There was from!” he said. Steve moved to Pennsylvania in 1991, the kind truck driver who stopped to take and often set out on two- and three-day Steve to the hospital after he flipped his bike over a Wisconsin trips to explore the area. He also often travels with folding bikes on trains, which guardrail when he was in high school. There was the couple allows him to travel more easily than living 50 miles outside of Philadelphia with bikes or cars alone. In 1994, Steve who invited Steve in for venison and and John Boyle, who is now the advo- confessed they hadn’t traveled to the big cacy director for the Bicycle Coalition in city in more than 40 years. There was Philadelphia, started a bikes-on-transit the woman in northern Minnesota who database for the city. felt inspired to start traveling by bicycle Steve met his wife at a bicycle shop, shortly after she met Steve. And there and often rides with his daughters — were the people who worked at Clark one on his Bike Friday tandem, and Fork Organics in Missoula, where Steve another on a mountain bike. Although spent a week just so he could learn his wife is “more into the bed-and-break- about permaculture. fast-type thing,” Steve said he hopes to The people stayed put and he moved embark on a few bicycle tours with his on. But these short exchanges had pro- family once his daughters are older. found effects on not only Steve’s life, “I love bicycling with my kids,” but also the lives of the people he’s met. Steve said. “They’re not passively sit- People are the reason Steve decided ting in a back seat. They’re going to to become a life member of Adventure notice the birds in the empty lot, which Cycling Association. Columnist John Steve Spindler they wouldn’t see if they were in the Schubert lives an hour north of Steve’s back seat of our car watching a DVD.” photo c r edit home in Pennsylvania, and both are active in developing Steve first learned of Adventure Cycling in the 1980s, bicycle routes throughout the state. As a cartographer who before he decided to take his first cross-country tour. He develops bicycle route maps, Steve networked with Adventure joined the organization and purchased the Northern Tier maps. Cycling cartographer Jennifer Milyko at a mapping conference. “The route maps are a really great reference point from And during a talk on the U.S. Bicycle Route System for the which you can break off,” Steve said. East Coast Greenway, Steve met Executive Director Jim Sayer. Steve realized during his first cross-country tour that “People had said, ‘You’ve just got to meet Jim.’” Steve knowledge is power, and maps are a valuable knowledge tool. said. “I heard him talk and thought, there is no reason He started making bicycle maps under the company name that I shouldn’t be a life member. Everyone I’ve met from Steve Spindler Cartography (bikemap.com). He works to devel- Adventure Cycling Association has been really nice and op city, county and regional maps, trail brochures for trailhead really worth knowing.” kiosks, and long-distance bike routes and cue sheets. Steve grew up in California. He remembers going to a police “I make bike maps because I wanted to show people how auction to pick out his first bike at age seven, then rebuild- wonderful it is to go bicycling,” Steve said. “In the 1990s, ing it. In high school in Iowa, he joined the Quad City Bicycle nobody paid attention. But when I started making maps, it Club and often rode 60 to 70 miles with people in their 70s. was a total magnet. People see a map and it empowers them His first memorable interaction with strangers on the road to do something. You don’t have to go far; you can just go out happened while he was riding from Davenport, Iowa, to New your door. It’s a great way to explore and understand the envi- Glarus, Wisconsin, about 125 miles one way. ronment around you.” “In the course of a bike ride from my house, I would meet

56 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 57 SHARE THE JOY GET A CHANCE TO WIN Spread the joy of cycling and get a chance to win cool prizes

n For every cyclist you sign up through a gift membersip or who joins through your referral, you score one entry to win a Novara Verita (rei.com/ product/807242) valued at over $1,100. The winner will be drawn from all eligible members in January of 2012.

n Recruit the most new members in 2011, and you’ll win a $500 Adventure Cycling shopping spree.

n Each month we’ll draw a mini-prize winner who will receive gifts from companies like Old Man Mountain, Cascade Designs, Showers Pass, and others.

n The more new members you sign up, the more chances you have to win! adventurecycling.org/joy

Adventure Cycling Association

56 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 57 marketMarketplace ads start at $195 per issue. For rate information, place please please contact Rick Bruner. Phone/fax: (509) 493-4930, Email: [email protected].

SANTA FE – 2011 Century - 26th Year (SantaFeCentury.com) Trail Bike Trek - 17th Year (SantaFeTrailBicycleTrek.com)

35 PannierRacksForAnyBike.com 888-439-6445 International Bike Tours • US/Canada: San Juan/Gulf/Vancouver Island • Asia, Africa, South America, and more. • Unique, enriching, affordable, small groups. • For ordinary active people, since 1983. Ibike Tours ~ 206.767.0848 ~ www.ibike.org/ibike

58 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 59 NBJOF! lobster ADVENTURES CJDZDMF!DPBMJUJPO!PG!NBJOF Rockland, Maine (' %& $ Saturday ' # July 23rd, 2011 Maine’s most scenic and tasty bike rides 16, 30, 50 and 100 mile rides to choose from and a fresh lobster ROCKYroll MOUNTAIN dinner atCYCLE the TOURS nish7 ))&+ )1/&2" LEGACY ANNUAL GREAT BICYCLE RIDE .,! 5 )&+$+!*,1+0&+ &("!2"+01."/&+0%" ACROSS UTAH +!&+, (&"/+! "5,+!&!"0%"3,.)!:/ September 1$1/0 "-0"* ". 1 -10, 2011 8%0 "10) *,/0 "10)*,1+0&+.,!0%" ";")!/.(35 -) "&03/0%".&!",#)&#"0&*"98%2" 318.734.5622!!!!!!!xxx/CjlfNbjof/psh "4-".&"+ "! ,10!,6"+0,1./ &/ /-". +##4-".&"+ "1.,-":/ "/0.,! 5 )&+$ 0%";./0.&!":! ,+/&!".."-"0&+$98%".&!&+$ ,+,1.,1.!"',. *))$.,1-/*6&+$ 2"+1"&/"4 "-0&,+)3,.)! )//-+.* ++/ &$/*&)"/0&)).,,*2&) )"',. 0 ,#/-" 0 1)./ "+".598%"-."*&". CANDISC " 1."5,1. /-,0Tour,+ ";")!/ 2011.(35 & 5 )"0,1.&+0%"98&(" &("0,1.0,+,0%". 0,1./+,3+!/2"."" ., %1."+!-%,0, -)+"09 ,4 ,.,.)0("&05 Aug.800-661-BIKE 6-13, (2453) 2011 www.lagbrau.com [email protected] !" “Pedalwww.rockymountaincycle.com the Pioneer Trail” tour 801-654-1144 will cycle through the heart of North Dakota’s vast and fertile agricultural country boasting fields of waving grain, herds of cattle and picturesque farm- steads. Breath taking sunsets accent the beauty of the plains. Bicycle Cuba with the people who Bicycle Cuba with the people who Bicycle Cuba with the people who CANDISC live there. Groups of all sizes. Check live there. Groups of all sizes. Check live there. Groups of all sizes. Check P.O. Box 515, Garrison, N.D. 58540 us out at:- www. CanBiCuba.com us out at:- www. CanBiCuba.com us out at:- www. CanBiCuba.com

1-800-799-4242 e-mail: [email protected] ATD 2.25x1-V4.pdf 1 12/20/10 10:24 AM C

M Bicycle Cuba with the people who Bicycle Cuba with the people who Bicycle Cuba with the people who

Y live there. Groups of all sizes. Check live there. Groups of all sizes. Check live there. Groups of all sizes. Check us out at:- www. CanBiCuba.com us out at:- www. CanBiCuba.com us out at:- www. CanBiCuba.com CM MY Shorts. Jerseys. More. Sizes X-Small to 5X CY www.aerotechdesigns.com ! Bicycle Cuba with the people who Bicycle Cuba with the people who Bicycle Cuba with the people who CMY live there. Groups of all sizes. Check live there. Groups of all sizes. Check live there. Groups of all sizes. Check

K us out at:- www. CanBiCuba.com us out at:- www. CanBiCuba.com us out at:- www. CanBiCuba.com " !

58 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 59 Bicycle Cuba with the people who Bicycle Cuba with the people who Bicycle Cuba with the people who live there. Groups of all sizes. Check live there. Groups of all sizes. Check live there. Groups of all sizes. Check us out at:- www. CanBiCuba.com us out at:- www. CanBiCuba.com us out at:- www. CanBiCuba.com

Bicycle Cuba with the people who Bicycle Cuba with the people who Bicycle Cuba with the people who live there. Groups of all sizes. Check live there. Groups of all sizes. Check live there. Groups of all sizes. Check us out at:- www. CanBiCuba.com us out at:- www. CanBiCuba.com us out at:- www. CanBiCuba.com classified Rate: $115 for the first 30 words, $2 for each additional word. For more information,ads please contact Rick Bruner at phone/fax: (509) 493-4930, email: [email protected].

Bicycle Touring Gear Business Opportunities BIKE THE FLORIDA KEYS — The ulti- TheTouringStore.com — Buy Expedition SELL YOUR BUSINESS — Sell your compa- mate Bicycle Vacation. Bike the entire key sys- Quality Panniers, Racks, & Bicycle Touring ny. Start our extended cycle tour now. M&A tem, down and back. Fully-supported includ- Gear at Great Prices! See Ortlieb, Tubus, Lone firm can sell your large company (>100 ing breakfasts and most dinners. Beautiful Peak, and More! Questions? Call Wayne Toll employees). Call confidentially: Tom Edens sunsets. Swim with the dolphins. Snorkel. Free at (800) 747-0588, Email us at: wayne@ (713) 988-8000, www.marionfinancial.com. Dive. The Seven Mile Bridge just might be TheTouringStore.com, or visit us at www. the most beautiful seven miles you will ever TheTouringStore.com. Events bike. November 5–12, 2011. Details from BICYCLE RIDE ACROSS GEORGIA (BRAG) BubbasPamperedPedalers.com or BikerBubba@ BikeBagShop.com — The largest — Spring Tune-Up Ride, April 15-17, 2011, aol.com. selection of Bike Bags & Bike Racks - by Madison, Georgia. 32nd Annual Bicycle Ride Ortlieb, Vaude, Lone Peak, Tubus, Old Man Across Georgia, June 4-11, 2011. Great fun for Touring Ride in Rural Indiana (TRIRI) Mountain & More! BikeTrailerShop.com — families and groups. Various mileage options. — Bicycle Rallies - June 12-15 and August The largest selection of Bike Cargo Trailers 770-498-5153, [email protected], www.brag.org. 14-17, 2011. Loop rides from a single Indiana — by BOB, Burley, Extrawheel, Wandertec State Park with camping or inn accommoda- & More! 1-800-717-2596. CYCLING CAMPS — Monthly Climbing tions and six catered meals. Contact: 812-333- Camps in Sunny Southern California. Santa 8176; [email protected]; or www.triri.org. Bike Magazines Wanted Monica Mountains Climbing Camp and adventure cycling library — We are Classic Climbs of the Sierra Nevada. 5 Days, Cycling the Erie Canal — July 9-17, formalizing Adventure Cycling’s office library 350 miles, 40,000 feet. 714-267-4591 www. 2011 –Learn from canal historians about and have been putting magazines into hardbound cyclingescapes.com. the people, places and things that made the volumes. We are looking for specific misssing canal so important. Visit museums, take a issues of Bicycling, Bike World, The Cyclist, Bicycle RAINSTORM — July 11-16, 2011. Five centu- boat tour on the canal and enjoy miles of Guide, LAW Bulletin, Bicycle Rider, American ries over five days and a 160-mile ride on day beautiful rural scenery. The 400 mile route Cyclist, & Bicycle Spokesman. We also have six. Inn or motel accommodations, most over- from Buffalo to Albany, NY is half canal path some duplicate issues available. Contact Greg nights in Indiana State Parks, seven catered and half adjacent roads. Most meals, SAG, Siple at [email protected]. meals. Contact: 812-333-8176; [email protected]; refreshment stops, luggage transport, maps & or www.triri.org. cue sheets, evening entertainment, campsites Bike Shops at schools and colleges. www.ptny.org/canal RECUMBENTS, TANDEMS, TRIKES — Fabulous French Creek State Park tour or 518.434-1583. Rans, Easy Racer, Sun, Cycle Genius, Bacchetta — Join your friends on a new camping event Recumbents - KHS, Schwinn, Raleigh in eastern PA. Multiple routes, including a MASS BIKEPIKE TOUR — August 11-14, 2011 Tandems - Greenspeed, HP VeloTechnik century. Low traffic roads. Historic sight- – This year exploring western Massachusetts Trikes - Electra Touring. Jay’s Pedal Power, seeing. Four catered meals. June 3-5, $195. and the Berkshires. Spectacular views, 512 E. Girard Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19125; www.scampnrascal.com; 610-317-9611. challenging arrowed routes, quaint towns, (215) 425-5111, Toll-free (888) 777-JAYS, Visit museums, history, and local culture. Most our website at: www.jayspedalpower.com. The Great Hudson Valley Pedal — meals, SAG, refreshment stops, maps, and August 16 – 21, 2011 – A 200 miles tour from cue sheets. www.MassBikePike.org or (617) TANDEMS EAST — Road, Mountain and Albany to New York City through the pictur- 710-1832. Travel Tandems. Over 60 in stock. Wheel build- esque and historic Hudson Valley, home to the ing, child conversions, repairs, parts catalog, Franklin D. Roosevelt National Historic Site, CYCLE NORTH CAROLINA SPRING RIDE test rides. Back-stocking Conti and Schwalbe West Point, the Catskill Mountains, quaint (April 8-10, 2011) Oriental, NC — Enjoy touring tires. 86 Gwynwood Dr, Pittsgrove, NJ villages, wineries and great scenic bicycling. unique waterfront camping and cycling on 08318. Phone: (856) 451-5104, Fax: (856) 453- www.ptny.org/hudsontour or 518.434-1583. scenic country roads in Coastal North Carolina. 8626. Email: [email protected] or visit our Register for 1, 2, or 3 days. Various mile- website at: www.tandemseast.com. 2011 CYCLE NORTH CAROLINA FALL RIDE age options for all skill levels from easy fam- — 13th Annual “Mountains to the Coast” ily to challenging century. Additional lodging HubBub Custom Bicycles — LAB’s — (October 1 – October 8) -- Cycle 425 plus options are available. Fully supported with SAG #1 shop! Fitting, designing, building fine miles while experiencing the North Carolina Support and rest stops. Email: cyclenc@ncs custom bicycles for men and women since countryside on scenic back roads amidst ports.org; www.cyclenortcarolina.org. 1997. Handbuilt wheels our specialty. Long- beautiful fall colors. Explore quaint towns, distance specialists. NE Ohio. On the Web visit famous State Parks, Historic Sites, win- September Escapade TRIRI — September at: www.hubbubcustom.com. (800) 888-2027. eries, and more. Fully supported with SAG 11-16, 2011. Scenic, historic tour of southern Support and rest stops. Various registra- Indiana with inn or camping overnights at ARRIVING BY BIKE — Eugene, Oregon’s tion options available. [email protected] Indiana State Parks, two layover days, and Urban Cycling Outfitters. Gear, guidance www.ncsports.org. ten catered meals. Contact: 812-333-8176; and enthusiasm to support your life-bik- [email protected]; or www.triri.org. ing. Basil, Ortlieb, Tubus, Detours, Showers Pass, Ibex and Endura plus loads of fenders, lights, reflectives, tools and Brooks saddles. Xtracycles! 2705 Willamette St., 541.484.5410, [email protected].

60 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 61 CANDISC — Cycle the historic Missouri Seniors Cycle Provence — On your Coast 2 Coast — Hassle free closely follow- River; experience the German-Russian own, but not alone on our self-guided ing Southern Tier averaging 63 miles per day. Heritage of North Dakota including fantas- tours. Choose dates, companions, accom- Fully supported including freshly prepared tic churches and unique cemeteries as you modations, routes. FREE APPLE iPAD for great tasting meals, mechanic, and massage breathe deeply the cleanest air in America. couples going on our guided tours. www. therapist. You dip your rear wheel into the August 6-13, 389 mile loop, 1-800-799-4242. linksbiketours.com. Pacific and your front wheel into the Atlantic, CANDISC Tour ’11 Box 515 Garrison, North I will do everything in between. Mid-March Dakota 58540-0515. [email protected] www. EUROPE - 200 ROUTES IN 30 COUNTRIES to early May. BubbasPamperedPedalers.com parkrec.nd.gov click on Recreation then click — Bike Tours Direct - Guided and self-guid- or [email protected]. on Activities. ed tours with European bike tour companies. Weekly and daily departures. Tours from HISTORICAL TRAILS CYCLING — Fully- Help Wanted $600. From familiar - Loire Valley, Provence, supported affordable biking tours along JOIN THE CYCLE AMERICA SUMMER Danube, Tuscany, Bavaria, Ireland - to exotic Americas Historic Trails and By-ways. Cycle STAFF — Spend an adventuresome sum- - Croatia, Greece, Turkey, Slovenia, Adriatic and explore The Lewis and Clark Trail, mer traveling while sharing ride and work island-hopping. 877-462-2423 www.bike Oregon Trail, and The Wilderness Road. responsibilities. Positions include: Tour toursdirect.com. [email protected]. Friendly experienced staff and delicious Support Volunteers, Bike Mechanics, Massage meals. 402-499-0874, Website: www.histori Therapists, Picnic and Route Coordinators. GIRO D’ITALIA WITH SICICLANDO! — Join caltrailscycling.com. 800‑716‑4426. www.CycleAmerica.com. us for a very special Giro D’Italia 2011 Bike Race. Giro D’Italia is the Italian version CAROLINA TAILWINDS BICYCLE of Tour de France – with pasta and gela- RIDE TWO STATES-TWO COUNTRIES — VACATIONS — Easy, flat terrain tours to! This year the Giro celebrates the 150th Five-day, 350-mile fully supported ride Sept. include: South Carolina’s Lowcountry, North Anniversary of Italy’s Unification. Siciclando 20-24, 2011 on the International Selkirk Carolina’s Outer Banks, and Maryland’s has three great options to enjoy the Giro: bike Loop, incredible Scenic Byway through Eastern Shore. More challenging, mountainous Tuscany, Sicily, or both. You can bike Italy, Washington, Canada, Idaho. www.WaCanId. tours include: Virginia’s Shenandoah Valley see two days of the race, ride some of the Giro org or 888-823-2626 and North Carolina’s Blue Ridge Mountains. routes, and meet some of the most famous All tours include intimate group size, cozy racers in the world. www.SICICLANDO.com International Tours country inns, and outstanding cuisine. www. or call 1-800-881-0484. BICYCLE TOURS - PARIS TO POMPEI carolinatailwinds.com; 888-251-3206. — Since 1983. Choose from luxurious guid- TOPBICYCLE TOURS IN CENTRAL EUROPE edtours on 3 continents or from over 60 self ALL RIDES ARE NOT CREATED EQUAL — guided tours in 20 countries with mechani- — 7- to 10-day self-guided and guided cycling vacations. We are a specialist for bike Challenge yourself riding 400+ miles and calbackup and luggage transfer. Enjoy qui- climbing 30,000’ through the Scenic Byways etscenic bike paths, fabulous vineyards with tours in Central Europe since 1996. We con- centrate only on the countries where we live: and National Parks of the West. 714-267-4591 winetastings, authentic local cuisine, beach- www.cyclingescapes.com. es, mountaintop views, seaside rides, ferry Czech Republic, Slovakia, Austria, Hungary, Germany, and Poland. Visit and ride between crossings, hot air ballooning, Danube river VACATION BICYCLING — “This was my cruising. From $650/wk. Experience it all the beautiful cities of Vienna, Prague, Budapest, Krakow, Salzburg, Dresden, and best vacation after more than 20 bicycle at www.world-ventures.com. (800) 800-1775 tours.” We provide supported beautiful trips [email protected]. Passau. Carefully planned self-guided tours. Small guided groups with local knowledge- through Mississippi’s Natchez Trace, the Florida Keys, Canada’s Prince Edward Island, BERLIN to PRAGUE A blend of bicycling, able guides. We can customize our tours according to your wishes. Quality bike rental Martha’s Vineyard/Cape Cod and NC Outer culture and history. First Class hotels and Banks, 7-day tours from $999, including fine regional cuisine. Individual pace, option- available. www.topbicycle.com. info@top bicycle.com. hotels, food & SAG. Come join us! 800-490- al distances, support van. Our 38th year! 2173 www.vacationbicycling.com. GERHARD’S BICYCLE ODYSSEYS. 800. North American Tours 966.2402. www.since1974.com. THE GREAT ALLEGHENY PASSAGE AND CROSSROADS CYCLING ADVENTURES — C&O CANAL — 334.5 continuous trail miles CYCLE THE MAJESTIC TONKINESE ALPS OF Celebrating 15 years of excellence! Come ride with Tracy Leiner - owner, cyclist and tour from Pittsburgh to DC; custom or group VIETNAM — May 9 – 20, 2011 and The New tours; includes B&Bs, inns, excellent meals, Ho Chi Minh Trail May 21 – June 5, 2011. director. Tracy travels with every group, everyday managing daily logistics, driving luggage shuttle, full sag support, vehicle or Breathtaking Scenery, remote villages inhab- people and gear shuttle; attractions including ited by friendly hill tribes. Fully supported, support vans and pedaling with her cyclists. Small groups, personal attention, superior Frank Lloyd Wright’s Fallingwaer, Antietam hotels, meals, experienced tour leader. 800- battlefield plus so much more... Call Trail Gail 613-0390, Email: discover.vietnam@yahoo. accommodations and meals. Extensive pre- trip support including training plan and at 301-722-4887 240-727-7039 or www.moun com. Visit www.discovervietnam.com for tainsidebiketours.net You Pedal, We Pamper.” detailed itinerary. telephone consultations. Rider reference list available. (800) 971-2453 www.crossroads cycling.com. WOMEN ONLY BIKE TOURS — For all PEDAL AND SEA ADVENTURES — We’re a ages and abilities. Fully supported, inn-to- personable travel company offering creative Scamp ‘n’ Rascal Cycling Adventures inn, bike path & road tours. Cross-country, cycling and multi-sport adventures in many of National Parks, Europe & more. Bicycle work- the world’s best places, including Nova Scotia, — Eastern PA has some of the finest road riding in the nation. Join our fully-support- shops, wine tasting, yoga. Call for free cata- Newfoundland, P.E.I., Costa Rica, Croatia, log. 800-247-1444, www.womantours.com. Italy, Greece, Norway, and Ireland. Guided ed inn-to-inn adventures. You’ll ride hard, and self-guided. Van-supported. Friendly rest easy, and love every minute. www. scampnrascal.com, 610-317-9611. RIDE TWO STATES-TWO COUNTRIES — guides. Charming inns. Custom groups Bike the International Selkirk Loop, North anytime. Over 70% return clientele since AMERICA BY BICYCLE, INC. — Your full America’s only two-nation Scenic Byway 2005! Toll Free Phone: 877-777-5699. Please through Washington, Idaho, Canada. Pick email us at dana@pedalandseaadventures. service bicycle touring leader. Chose from 38 tours ranging from 5 to 52 days. Let us take your pace for 280 miles of incredible self- com or visit our website: www.pedalandsea supported riding! www.selkirkloop.org. adventures.com. you on your dream ride — Coast to Coast! abbike.com. 888-797-7057 FREE CATALOG. classifieds continued next page

60 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 61 classified ads continued

TIMBERLINE ADVENTURES — Fully sup- CYCLE AMERICA® COAST‑TO‑COAST — CYCLE AMERICA’s NATIONAL PARKS — ported bicycling & hiking adventure vacations Enjoy a Fully Supported Cycling Vacation this Visit North America’s majestic treasures on our with an organization whose sole focus for 26 Summer. Explore North America’s treasures fully-supported series of National Park Tours. years is extraordinary adventure throughout on an epic Coast‑to‑Coast tour from Seattle to Cycle through a painted Southwest wilderness, western U.S. & Canada. Website: www.timber- Boston. Choose one or ride several Cross State ride the Canadian Rockies, or bike an undulat- tours.com Email: timber@earth net.net Phone: segments. Good Friends, Great Routes and ing Pacific Coast. Good friends, great routes 800-417-2453. First‑Rate Support! Let us help you plan your and first-rate support! Let us help you plan next fun and affordable cycling adventure. your next fun and affordable cycling adven- More ways to discover Quebec — Tour 800‑245‑3263. www.CycleAmerica.com. ture. 800-245-3263. www.CycleAmerica.com. Vert from Montreal to Quebec City August 21 www.CycleAmerica.com. to August 26 Discovering Canada by bike since BonTon Roulet — July 24 – 30, 2011. A 1988. Learn more: www.CycleCanada.com or festival on wheels through New York’s Finger WHY RIDE WITH ADVENTURE CYCLING? — call 800-214-7798. Lakes Region, celebrated for its wineries. Our tours feature experienced leaders, attract Breakfasts and most dinners provided, camp- wonderful people, have an intimate feel, and Flavors of Wisconsin Bike Tour — ing or other accommodations available. A leave you feeling refreshed. In 2011, we’re of- Cheese, beer anyone? Cycle, taste, and sam- picturesque bicycle tour limited to 650 riders. fering self-contained tours & supported tours, ple your way through the scenic vistas of www.bontonroulet.com or 315-253-5304. small group & big event options, epic and weeklong trips. Make this a year to remember, Southwest Wisconsin on a six-day support- RIDE ACROSS AMERICA FAST — San ed tour featuring microbreweries and craft sign-up for an Adventure Cycling. Find us at Diego to Savannah. 26 days, 110 miles per day, www.adventurecycling.org/tours. cheese. July 11 -16. www.aroundwisbike.com. September 2011. Motels, meals, plenty of Ice. 30 Years of Cross Country Tours with trans- continental record holders Susan Notorangelo and Lon Haldeman. pactour.com 262-736-2453.

Adventure Cycling Corporate Members

Adventure Cycling’s business partners play a significant level of support. These corporate membership funds go toward role in the success of our nonprofit organization. Our Corporate special projects and the creation of new programs. To learn more Membership Program is designed to spotlight these key support- about how your business can become a corporate supporter of ers. Corporate Members are companies that believe in what we Adventure Cycling, go to www.adventurecycling.org/corporate or do and wish to provide additional assistance through a higher call (800) 755-2453.

TITANIUM GOLD

SILVER BRONZE

ESRI Gateway Printing Lorain County Visitors Bureau First Interstate Bank BikeQuest Bicycle Touring Co.

62 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 63 Open Road Gallery companions Vaunted by Sarah Raz Photograph by Greg Siple

This particular cross-country adventure started with an advertisement that appeared in the Companions Wanted section of the September–November 2009 issue of Adventure Cyclist. It read: “TransAm — West to East.” A group of 13 riders, ranging in age from 64 to 73 years old, and from all over the world, gathered in Portland, Oregon, eager to begin their epic ride across the country. On Sunday, May 16, 2010, all 13 headed to Florence, Oregon, the starting point of the TransAmerica route. In Sisters, Oregon, after less than 200 miles, the group began to splinter. Several riders dropped out, and the remainder split into two groups. Charlie Randell (age 69), Paul Yoder (age 71), Eugene Lantz (age 71), and David Cote (age 70) pictured from left to right, were the strongest riders and formed the lead group. Daily, people would ask about their bicycle tour and respond with amaze- ment, envy, and praise. According to Cote, “at 70 years of age, I found this adventure a fantastic learning experience and I still have lots more to learn.” The trek certainly presented its challenges. Notice any outstanding details about the photo? That’s right. Raingear, raingear, and more raingear. During the first 25 days, Charlie Randall esti- mates that there were only about three sunny ones. It was even drizzling when the photo was taken. “The rain had an adverse effect on many riders,” recalled David Cotes. The group finished in 82 days. The riders gushed about their ride: pleased with their accom- plishment and proud of their grit. They loved the people they met, their own developing friendship, the wildlife, the scenery, and soaking up local history. Cote’s wife, who met the group in Yorktown with chilled champagne says, “I’m just overwhelmed by his tenaciousness and determination, and the fact that he did it. He’s already back on his bike.”

62 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 63 Adventure Cycling Association Non-profit P.O. Box 8308 U.S. POSTAGE Missoula, Montana 59807-8308 PAID Adventure Cycling Association