May/June 2010 JETAANY.org/magazine 1 Contents May/June 2010, Vol. 19, Issue No. 3

3 From the Editor, New Country Reps 4 Nippon News Blotter / Wynne Memorial 5 JETAANY Election Recap That’s Gorgeous Entertainment! By Anthony Waldman 6 Shakai Spotlight: International Center of New York By Pamela Kavalam Yoko Shioya, Artistic Director of Japan Society By Lyle Sylvander 7 JETlog Featuring Gail Cetnar Meadows 8 Bruce Feiler: The JQ Interview By Justin Tedaldi 9 JETAANY Society Page Photos 10 Nihonjin in New York: Featuring Dancer Nobuya Nagahama By Stacy Smith 11 Echostream Rocks the Anime Circuit and Beyond By Earth Bennett 13 Robataya Restaurant Review By Nancy Ikehara Book Corner: The Niigata Sake Book By Yukari Sakamoto 14 Will Ferguson: Our Canadian Cousin By Joshua Graubart 15 The Funny Page

CGJ in NY Welcomes Vice-Consul Kumi Matsumoto

I arrived in New York at the end of March,M and it was actually my very fi rst ttime to visit this exciting city. And on tthe very fi rst day, I had dinner with JJETAANY members! I really thank you ffor this heartwarming welcome.

BBefore I was assigned to the Consulate GGeneral of Japan, I was working at the ppublic diplomacy department of the MMinistry of Foreign Affairs, the section wwhich deals with the JET Program. My wwork was not directly related to JET, bbut more about the planning and as- ssessment of Japan’s public diplomacy aas a whole. And among many different ttools to promote positive images about JJapan, the JET Program is thought to bbe one of the most successful programs wwe have ever launched. I personally tthink it is because JET is a win-win pprogram which gives valuable experi- eence both to the JET members and to tthe Japanese students and everyone wwho shared time with you. I believe JJETAA’s support to JET members has bbeen the reason this wonderful pro- ggram has lasted so long.

TThis summer, the national conference oof JETAA USA will be held in New York, and I am very excited about it. I hope all the chapters of JETAA, CLAIR, the consulate and all the stakeholders can work together and strengthen our bonds. Yoroshiku 0negaishimasu!

2 May/June 2010 JETAANY.org/magazine From the Editor

In early May, JETAANY’s offi cers welcomed a very special guest to the Big Apple: Ms. Yoko Kimura, CLAIR’s new chairperson of the board of directors. We met with Kimura-san along with members of the Consulate General of Japan and the Japan Local Government Center over soup dumplings and other delicacies to discuss our respective challenges vis-à-vis the JET Program. Last year, 4,436 people participated as JETs, with 57 percent of them representing the United States. As the program’s reputation continues to grow, it’s vital for all alumni to learn more about it, which will be on the agenda for JETAA’s National Conference in August. See you there!

Editorially yours,

Justin Tedaldi (Kobe-shi CIR, 2001-02) [email protected]

From the New Country Representatives

Hajimemashite to all of you at JETAANY whom I have not yet had the pleasure of meeting. I am quite excited to be serving as JETAA USA Country Rep along with your very own Shree Kurlekar and Rod McLeod of the San Francisco chapter.

I am up for the challenge of following in the footsteps of Ryan Hart, and delighted that Shree will be staying on for a second year as CR. I think each of have specifi c skills that will lend themselves to a strong team that will serve the JETAA USA com- munity effectively. I am hoping to contribute my experience and knowledge gained as treasurer for RMJETAA to all chapters on the national level as CR for JETAA USA. My position at the consulate has also given me insight in regards to the fl ow of money on the MOFA side of things and general governmental trends in fi nancial practices.

I honestly believe this upcoming year will be one during which JETAA USA can continue to ride on the wave of energy that was present during last year’s National Conference and get some good work done. I am really looking forward to this year’s conference in New York City this summer and the continu- ation to improve and strengthen this community! Yoroshiku onegaishimasu,

Jessyca Wilcox (Hokkaido, 2003-06) [email protected]

My name is Rod McLeod, and I am one of the new JETAA USA Country Representatives. I was an ALT in Shimane-ken. During my time in Japan, I interacted with quite a few JETs through weekend adventures and AJET organized events, like the Tokushima Touch Rugby Tournament. After moving back to San Francisco, I volunteered to become an offi cer and swiftly became the president of JETAANC (Northern California). I enjoyed my time as president, but decided that it was time to move on last January. I am excited take this role, and will try to build on the foundation for JETAA USA that the previous CRs have established in past years.

As the “tech guy,” I plan to work with Jessyca and Shree to centralize information and increase communication between chapters. I would like chapters to start utilizing cloud computing like Google Docs and Dropbox to catalyze cross-chapter discussions. The fi rst step to doing this is establishing an online JETAA USA directory, which I have created via Google Docs. It is the most up-to-date offi cer information that I have for all 19 chapters. Please let me know if you ever have any questions. I look forward to having a great year!

Rod McLeod (Shimane-ken, 2005-07) [email protected]

There are many ways to contribute to JQ. Writing’s a start. Accept no substitutes! Contact magazinesubscrip- Send your story ideas to [email protected]. [email protected] to get your own JQ hard copy.

May/June 2010 JETAANY.org/magazine 3 3/18/10: Japanese fi sh dealers welcomed the 4/9/10: Eri Yoshida, an 18-year-old knuck- rejection of a proposed trade ban on Atlantic leball pitcher who played pro ball in Japan bluefi n tuna—a prized ingredient of sushi— last year, signed with the Chico Outlaws of the while urging that existing quotas be more strict- Golden Baseball League. The team said she will ly enforced to protect the species from overfi sh- report to spring training next month. Yoshida ing. A recent vote at a UN meeting in Doha, will be the fi rst female to pitch for a pro team in Qatar, rejecting the ban was front-page news the United States since Ila Borders retired more in all major Japanese newspapers. Japan con- than ten years ago, the team said. (Salon.com) sumes about 80 percent of the world’s Atlantic bluefi n tuna. (AP) 4/10/10: A Japanese TV cameraman was among those killed in a bloody clash in Thai- 3/23/10: Nintendo said the next generation land between anti-government protesters and 5/4/10: Prime Minister Yukio Hatoyama has of its DS handheld video game console would soldiers. Hiro Muramoto, 43, was shot while said it will not be feasible to entirely remove a come with a 3D display and go on sale within covering fi ghting in Bangkok when Thai sol- controversial U.S. base from the island of Oki- a year. Unlike the recent fl urry of three dimen- diers fi red rubber bullets into crowds and live nawa, which is home to over half the 47,000 sional fi lms and TV technologies, the new ma- ammunition in the air to dislodge protesters American troops based in Japan. The U.S. Ma- chine, tentatively called the Nintendo 3DS, will from encampments in the capital. The army rines’ Futenma base is deeply unpopular with not require users to wear special glasses to view has accused protesters of fi ring live rounds and many residents, and removing it had been a key images in 3D. The new device will be on display throwing grenades. (Reuters) election pledge of the prime minister. But on a at the E3 video game trade show in June. visit to the island, Hatoyama said “realistically (New York Times) 4/19/10: Fast Retailing Co. said it has signed speaking, it is impossible” to fully relocate it. a rental contract for a second Uniqlo store in (BBC) 3/30/10: United States auto safety regulators New York, to be the world’s largest. The com- are turning to scientists from the NASA space pany said it signed a lease for space of 8,300 5/11/10: The Central Japan Railway Company and aeronautics agency for help analyzing Toy- square meters for the casual wear store on Fifth took the visiting U.S. transportation secretary, ota electronic throttles to see if they are behind Avenue in Midtown Manhattan. Meanwhile, Ray LaHood, on a maglev train test run—a unintended acceleration. The Transportation as Uniqlo aggressively expands in New York, 312-mile-an-hour tryout for the lucrative eco- Department is just beginning its review of Toy- upscale Japanese department store operator nomic stimulus contracts that the United States ota electronic throttles, which have come under Takashimaya Co. is closing its store—also lo- plans to award to update and expand its rail heightened scrutiny following the recall of 8.5 cated on Fifth Avenue—in June. Takashimaya network. Japan has also been keen to market its million Toyota and Lexus vehicles over the past is shifting its focus to other overseas markets, high-speed rail technologies to emerging econo- six months for unintended acceleration. especially in Asia. (Wall Street Journal) mies. (New York Times) (Reuters) 4/26/10: Better Place Inc., a U.S.-based elec- 5/14/10: The approval rating for Japanese 4/5/10: The United States is seeking the maxi- tric car start-up, launched the fi rst taxis based Prime Minister Yukio Hatoyama plunged to its mum civil penalty of $16.375 million against on its swappable battery technology in the Japa- lowest since his party’s landslide election vic- Toyota for failing to notify safety regulators of nese capital to test its vision of an auto indus- tory in August, according to a new poll released. its “sticky pedal” defect for at least four months. try that no longer relies on gasoline-powered Support for the cabinet and its center-left Roughly 2.3 million Toyotas have been recalled vehicles. The company said the taxis will cruise leader—who has been embroiled in a damag- for the sticky pedal defect. Millions more have Tokyo’s streets for three months to test their ing row over a U.S. airbase and criticized for his been recalled for a defect that causes the fl oor safety and reliability, and offi cials said they will weak leadership style—plunged to 19.1 percent mats to become entrapped. then decide whether to continue or expand the in May, a Jiji Press news agency poll showed. (Washington Post) program. (Wall Street Journal) (AFP)

Wynne Wu (1975-2010)

As many of you have heard, JetWit.com founder Steven Horowitz’s wife, Wynne Wu, passed away on April 23 after living with metastatic breast cancer for four years. Here is a list of information and ways you can help support Steven and their daughter Helen during this diffi cult time.

Lotsa Helping Hands Web site - this is the central repository of info. Everything is posted on this site and you need to sign up to get access. The info below can also be found here: www.lotsahelpinghands.com/c/624820

Wynne’s blog - Steven is posting some very beautiful things here about Wynne. It is a poignant homage to her life and pas- sions, and a great way to get to know Wynne if you didn’t have the privilege. http://wenren.wordpress.com

Donations - For those interested in donating, there are two funds that have been set up in Wynne’s honor:

Wu Fund - In consultation with Wynne and Steven, BHSEC (Bard High School Early College, the school where Wynne taught since 2002) has established the Wu fund which will honor Wynne’s contribution to BHSEC by funding students who study in China or take intensive Chinese classes. To contribute, send checks made out to BHSEC PTA with “Wu fund” in the memo. The address is: Bard High School Early College, 525 East Houston Street, New York, NY 10002, Attn: David Clark/Wu Fund. All donations are tax deductible.

Third Street Music School Settlement - Gifts received by Third Street Music School Settlement in memory of Wynne will support tuition assistance programs that provide need-based fi nancial aid and merit-based scholarships to students in need. To contribute, please send a check payable to: Third Street Music School Settlement, 235 East 11th Street, New York, NY 10003. Memo Note: Wynne Wu. www.thirdstreetmusicschool.org

Donors may also make contributions online with Third Street by clicking the link to Network for Good, and noting Wynne Wu in the dedication section.

4 May/June 2010 JETAANY.org/magazine Amber’s Goodbye

I leave this year as secretary of JETAANY with JETAANY Team 2010-11: From left, Kelly Nixon (trea- Janelle’s letter of rec clinched it for us. much appreciation of the collaboration of the surer), Shree Kurlekar (country rep), Megan Miller entire JETAANY executive committee and (president) and Monica Yuki (vice president), with new diplomats. As a JET, Janelle was a CIR in Shi- secretary Janelle Jimenez at right. mane-ken from 2005-08. During that time, she membership and satisfaction of the many things launched over fi fty events, including a monthly that we were able to accomplish this year. With April comes spring, and that means JETA- cooking class and several annual events, and ANY offi cer elections! The upcoming fi scal year established and maintained the International It was a privilege to serve as the 2009-10 JET- fi nds most of the same offi cers returning, with Exchange Fund which allowed the city budget AANY secretary, and even though I will no lon- new face Janelle Jimenez taking up the secre- to be expanded. ger retain this role, I hope to stay involved in tary’s quill. other ways—as I hope many other members will JETAANY would also like to thank outgoing try as well. Honto ni osewa ni narimashita. Janelle currently works at the Permanent Mis- secretary Amber Liang for all her contributions sion of Japan to the United Nations, where this year, including spearheading the mentor- Your loving former secretary, one of her main tasks is attending meetings, ing program, assisting with the Author Show- workshops and seminars, and briefi ng senior case, and many other events and activities! Amber Liang

ing Japan-related produc- tions? It is a particular challenge develop- ing audiences for work that crosses the language barrier, whether it be Japanese-language productions in America, or English-language pro- ductions in Japan; it is often equal- For those looking to broaden their ly challenging to develop audiences horizons in the theater and fi lm for work that crosses cultural bar- arts or experience more Japanese riers. For example, Up in the Air, culture stateside, the collaborative which is based one of the most be- U.S.-Japan projects of Gorgeous loved novels of the venerated Japa- Entertainment have much to offer. nese author Mizukami Tsutomu, For the past 13 years, this estab- is a well-loved story for young au- lished company has succeeded in diences in Japan. But in America, building cultural bridges across its somber presentation of death as the globe. Based in New York City, part of life is largely viewed as too this production enterprise special- “dark” for family audiences. izes in fi lm, theater and special events that reach out to audiences Gorgeous founders Kumiko Yoshii and Michael Wolk. (Courtesy of Kyle McKeveny) What effect has the global worldwide. JQ got the lowdown fi nancial crisis had on Gor- from company founders Kumiko at the Kennedy Center in 2008, Japanese animated feature fi lms at geous or its productions? Yoshii and Michael Wolk about featuring a score by Dreamgirls’ universities and museums. We’ve been amazingly fortunate in this unique and progressive com- Henry Krieger. This season, Gor- that our projects have proceeded pany. geous will present Miyamoto’s What sets Gorgeous apart without impediment by the global staging of The Fantasticks, Amer- from other production com- recession. Tell us about Gorgeous Enter- ica’s longest-running musical, in panies? tainment. London. Gorgeous also acts as the There is a strong Japanese sensi- What Japan-related projects We are a New York-based theater, production liaison for the presen- bility and understanding of Japan can we expect to see in the fi lm and special events production tation of Broadway musicals such within the offi ce, as well as Japa- near future? company, founded in 1997. Since as The Producers, Urinetown, The nese language capability, which Please join us for Japan Day @ its founding, Gorgeous has had Drowsy Chaperone, The Scarlet makes the company uniquely suit- Central Park on June 6! We will be a particular interest in projects Pimpernel, and The Sound of Mu- ed for U.S.-Japan collaborations. producing The Fantasticks on Lon- which promote cross-cultural un- sic in Japan. don’s West End beginning May 24, derstanding and collaboration be- What is Gorgeous’ connection and we are currently developing tween the United States and Japan. In fi lm, Gorgeous has produced to Japan? Iron Chef: The Musical and Deep the award winners Yukie and Ori- Through its co-founder and presi- Cover, a musical by Gorgeous CEO The company has produced nu- ume, both released theatrically in dent, Kumiko Yoshii, the company Michael Wolk that was presented merous theater projects that span Japan; and You Think You Really has fostered and grown relation- as part of the 2009 New York Mu- Japanese and American sensibili- Know Me: The Gary Wilson Story, ships over time with many top Jap- sical Theatre Festival, and will be ties, including Amon Miyamoto’s on Plexifi lm DVD. Special events anese production companies and staged again during the 2010 sea- 2005 Tony-nominated Pacifi c include Japan Day @ Central Park, corporations. son. Overtures, also presented at Lin- now entering its fourth year; The coln Center and Kennedy Center; Festival of Japanese Food and Cul- What are some of the chal- For more information, visit Gor- and Miyamoto’s Up in the Air, ture, and the Anime Masterpieces lenges Gorgeous faces as a geous Entertainment at www. commissioned by and performed series, which presents the best in production company featur- gorgeousentertainment.com.

May/June 2010 JETAANY.org/magazine 5 Founded in 1961, the International volunteers have come from JET. Center of New York is a unique vol- We have a good representation of unteer-driven community where Japanese members. JET alums newcomers to our country practice have enjoyed maintaining that con- speaking English and learn more nection with the Japanese culture. about U.S. culture. Their support- ers include immigrants, U.S. citi- People also come when they’re in- zens, refugees, asylees, diplomats, terested in possibly doing the JET visiting business professionals, Program—it’s a chance to get your international students, temporary feet wet, meet people from Japan, visitors and families. and practice teaching. Also, for the past six or seven years, we‘ve held With a full-time staff of 13 and an Exploration Abroad Fair in the English workshop in action at the International Center of New York. (Courtesy ICNY) 1,000+ volunteers, they offer New spring. Representatives from dif- York’s largest one-to-one partner- ferent programs such as the Peace year with good retention. We fi nd ship program, a variety of discus- Corps, Cross Cultural Solutions, as that a number of our volunteers sion and lecture classes, structured well as the JET Program speak to will stay on for years. eight-to-ten week English courses, our community about study and practical skills training work- work abroad. Is it possible to choose a con- shops, and cultural programs that versation partner based on a help their 2,000 members build What is the volunteer applica- country? For example, if JET new lives here. tion process like? alumni wanted to fi nd a Japa- There is a vigorous screening pro- nese exchange partner? JQ sat down with Beverly Brown- cess. You have to fi ll out an ap- We can’t make partnerships based Ruggia, ICNY’s managing director plication, do a short individual on a volunteer’s preference for a and COO, at their beautiful and interview, and attend a group ori- particular country or culture; it’s vibrant space in Chelsea to talk entation. We work with applicants just not logistically possible. None about ways that JET alums can to see if this is a good fi t and make of our volunteers or members get involved with them. sure they understand what is ex- have ever complained about this. pected of them. We’re looking for In terms of volunteers’ language What makes ICNY different people with a philosophy in sync ability, volunteers must be fl uent from the city’s other interna- with our own—volunteering at the in English and having a sensitivity tional organizations? International Center not just about to the language learning process is The programs we offer are for teaching but also about peer learn- helpful and defi nitely a plus. How- immigrants, students, and visi- ing and cultural exchange without ever, the conversation partner- tors and people working in New judgment. We look for people who ship program is strictly in English. Yoko Shioya of Japan Society. York temporarily, which puts us can listen and who are sensitive to Students who participate in the at an advantage. We work with cultural differences. conversation partnership program In April, Japan Society received all of these groups together—it’s a must have some conversation skill a one-day record of 3,000 visi- healthy mix and dynamic. Because of the current economy, and are usually at an intermediate tors for its inaugural j-CATION, a there has been an increase in volun- or advanced level. day-long open house celebrating We reach out to universities, sur- teer applications. The commitment the culinary and the cultural in Ja- vivors of torture, refugees, asylees. is two hours a week for six months. Can you talk about some of pan. JQ spoke with Yoko Shioya, Those groups would otherwise not Our biggest volunteer need is for ICNY’s community outreach Japan Society’s artistic director interact; it’s a wholly educational conversation partnerships, par- programs? and coordinator of the event, to experience. There is a common ticularly on weekday afternoons. We have been running the con- learn more about the institution’s struggle among people from dif- If you’re looking for work, put that versation partnership program approach to its performances and ferent economic backgrounds. It’s on the application. You can begin for a number of community-based activities. eye-opening for students to meet volunteering and fi nish your six organizations for several years. immigrants and vice versa. How month commitment and then see if We’ve done programs in Brooklyn Tell me about your back- they integrate into the city sets you can still fi t it in your schedule. and Queens, and in the spring we’ll ground. What did you study them apart. If you’re busy, it might be possible do some daytime programs in the in college? to volunteer in the summer, when Bronx. I was born and raised in Tokyo. We have a highly diverse group— several of our regular volunteers go My parents were very dedicated to aged from 18 to 80, immigrants away. The best idea is to check the It’s great for volunteers who prefer Western music, especially opera, and students, artists, bankers, ar- Web site and see what kinds of vol- to volunteer near their homes or and I learned to play piano at an chitects, teachers, retired people, unteer spots are open. offi ces. You can mention on your early age. actors....Many are college-educat- volunteer application that you’d ed; some have limited education. We match people according to their be happy to volunteer in a specifi c In college, I wanted to study con- However, we don’t take beginners, availability. Partnerships meet on- borough or neighborhood, and temporary dance but, at that time, only people with intermediate to site at the center. You can change we’ll notify you of opportunities you couldn’t study dance academi- advanced levels of English. the time with your partner if you that pop up. cally in Japan. So, I enrolled in the both agree on it, but we can’t guar- musicology department at Tokyo What has your relationship antee that. Some volunteers go on The International Center of New University of the Arts, which was been like with JETAA? ICNY trips with their partner. It’s York is located at 50 West 23rd the only university in Japan de- We’ve had a number of JET alumni a great opportunity for partners Street. For more on volunteering voted to this. on our staff—at least two people in to enliven their conversations. We and ICNY programs, visit www. the recent past. Also, many of our have about 800-1,000 volunteers a intlcenter.org. I belonged to the [Con’t. on 11]

6 May/June 2010 JETAANY.org/magazine Island View in 2008, it was a with new online magazines pop- 1.5-year-old PDF publication that ping up in Kyoto and Nagano and was being e-mailed to JET sub- the launch of a community blog for scribers every other month. Look- Ishikawa-ken JETs. Editors have ing back through the old issues, done a bit of cross promotion to we saw a treasure trove of articles share content and boost awareness about Japan that were up to that about our respective publications point just sitting buried in the dark for all JETs, and the Wide Island corners of a small number of peo- View has gotten positive feedback ple’s e-mail inboxes. So we decided from JETs in other parts of Japan to shine some light into those dark who’ve said they wish they had a corners. It was obvious that much similar type of publication in their of what had been written over the own prefectures. years would still be interesting to JETs today and well into the future, All of this is encouraging and leads not to mention anyone else with an us to think there might be a place interest in Japan. That being the for a kind of national JET Webzine. case, moving the publication out of It could be a site where all the pre- Wide Island View editor Gail at the Hiroshima Peace Memorial. e-mail inboxes and onto the Web fectures could easily create their Gail Cetnar Meadows (Hiroshima- rules.” just made sense. own page, and certain content from shi, 2007-present) is one of the the various JET publications could editors of Hiroshima JET Webzine • Dolphin tastes like liver. Being a gadget lover and a bit of a te- be centralized into a shared space. the Wide Island View, recently chie, Josh was able to get the Wide This is a project that’s currently named the Best Online Resource • All the roles in Japan’s famous Ta- Island View Web site off the ground being discussed by the various of the year by National AJET. She karazuka Theater in Hyogo-ken are using WordPress. It launched last publications’ editors and National is a contributor to JetWit.com, a performed by women, including June and took off from there. Traf- AJET. We’re hoping that by put- blogger, and a former newspa- the male roles. The ladies who train fi c has been steadily growing, and ting all our heads together, we can per journalist from Ohio. This is to play men can only play men, and currently it’s receiving more than launch a Web site that would be- Gail’s fi rst piece for JQ. they cut their hair short, practice 7,500 visitors and 25,000 page come a valuable resource for all of how to walk and behave like men views per month—not too shabby us to share our Japan experiences, Since moving to Hiroshima, I’ve and even lower their voice. This when you consider that as a PDF, and strengthen the whole JET com- learned quite a large number of was particularly interesting knowl- the publication was read by just a munity. intriguing things from the Wide edge to have when reading media couple hundred JETs on the mail- Island View. Things like the follow- reports about new prime minister ing list. What does all this mean for the ing: Yukio Hatoyama and his wife Mi- future of the Wide Island View? yuki, who, in addition to believing Now, not only are all the articles That’s not totally clear yet, but • Not only does the Japanese Big- she once traveled on a triangular- easily accessible anytime to anyone whatever happens, Josh and I have foot (a.k.a. Hibagon) live in the shaped UFO to Venus, was also seeking info on a specifi c topic, but been delighted by what Hiroshima mountains bordering the northern once a member of the Takarazuka the Web site also gives JETs the JETs have been able to accomplish end of Hiroshima prefecture, but Revue. (As a side note, I now know capability to share more than they together this year, and are really the beastly creature is rumored to that any headline containing the could before—videos, podcasts, excited about the potential for a wield ungodly pungent B.O. and phrase “Japanese ladies in drag” and most importantly, teaching new resource for JETs where all of even, possibly, lay little baby Big- will never cease attract hits.) materials. There’s also a forum us can learn a little more about our foot eggs—which the townspeople for making announcements, shar- tomodachis’ exploits in the Land of Saijo have turned a pretty profi t • That long, bumpy green vegeta- ing ideas, giving advice, and just of the Rising Sun. And of course, replicating as omiyage. Interest- ble I see in the supermarket—you in general creating a stronger JET we’re looking forward to learning ingly, though he may be a “Big”foot, know, the one that looks like it suf- support system and network. The more from the fellow JETs who he remains, like many of his Japa- fers from an extremely unfortunate icing on the cake has been the pho- share our home away from home— nese brethren, distinctively pint- case of VD—while extremely bitter, to contests made possible by the even if it does mean learning we sized, standing just fi ve feet tall. actually becomes quite tasty when prizes donated by advertisers. share it with a stinky, egg-laying properly prepared into the famous brute. • If you ever have the bad fortune Okinawan dish of goya chanpuru Over the past year or so, we’ve start- to be hospitalized for surgery in (emphasis on “properly”—the part ed to see other prefectures develop Visit the Wide Island View at Japan, it’s a good idea to bring I’ve not yet mastered). a stronger Web presence as well, www.wideislandview.com. your own chopsticks and utensils because they won’t be provided I could go on forever about ev- (except at an exorbitant price), and erything I’ve learned from my fel- you should also bring your own low JETs. Without a doubt, the clothing to wear after the surgery, sharing of knowledge through the since the hospital only gives you Wide Island View and other JET that sexy paper gown to wear while publications like it (particular fa- you’re actually in surgery. Lest vorites being the Hyogo Times, you think Japanese hospitals have Shimane-ken’s Black Taxi and taken a cue from American ones, Hokkaido’s Polestar) enrich the however, you can rest assured that, JET experience in a very important should some schoolgirls show up to way. (Hey, who else but other JETs giggle you back to good health, the ever would have thought to clue me hospital will generously loan you a in on the difference between the dainty cover to hide all the bits you seven varieties of citrus fruits of don’t want them to see. Japan? There’s apparently a whole world of citrus beyond the mikan!) • When taking the exam for a scooter license, be prepared to cor- When Joshua Zimmerman (Hiro- rectly answer to the following true/ shima-ken, 2005-09) and I took false statement: “You like to break the reins as editors of the Wide

May/June 2010 JETAANY.org/magazine 7 passed from person to person—they went viral of experiencing another culture—not going in as in the 1980s, if that’s the word—and I thought, a sort of a haughty Westerner, looking down on wow, if that’s interesting to me and to these it—but actually jumping into the deep end, com- other people, I should write a book about it. pletely immersed in yourself, befriending the It really was the sense that this story from this people, and opening yourself up to the culture. point of view wasn’t being told. In the 1980s, That way of living is the thing that I would take you couldn’t pick up a newspaper without read- from my experience, and pass on to my daugh- ing an article about Japan or education, and the ters today. (Portions of this interview were originally pub- fact that here was a book that combined both, lished on Examiner.com.) but had some sense of humor, I just think it was Since coming back, what developments the right book at the right time, and I’m amazed in Japan with JET or just the society itself Award-winning bestselling author, journalist, and touched that, so many years later, for a have you continued to follow? and—in his own words—“professional trav- lot of people, it’s the fi rst book they read when I think that if you look back to the origins of the eler” Bruce Feiler (Tochigi-ken, 1987-88) has they go to Japan….This was before the Internet, JET Program, it grew out of a philosophy: We been writing books for nearly 20 years, the before e-mail, before blogs, [and] the world need to educate and open Japan up to the West. most recent of which focused on social issues seemed much bigger than it is today. Prime Minister Nakasone had an original idea and religion. His new book, The Council of of putting foreigners into the culture. That was Dads: My Daughters, My Illness, and the Men something that was very awkward at the time, Who Could Be Me, was inspired by his diagno- and many of the Japanese people that I knew sis with cancer two years ago. Faced with an who had spent time abroad and come back uncertain future and concerned about his fam- home were misfi ts at home, I would say. ily, he asked six of his peers to form a “Coun- cil of Dads” to help guide his young daughters And I think that Japan is much humbler now through their lives. JQ spoke with Bruce about than it was in the 1980s. I think that the world the start of his writing career, which began is much smaller than it was…with the Inter- with 1991’s Learning to Bow, an account of his net and technology and business, everybody’s time living in Japan as an English teacher on more integrated. So I think that Japan still lags the inaugural year of the JET Program, as well behind, but compared to where we were in the as his thoughts about the program today. 1980s, that Japanese people are much defter at integrating with the West than they were then. You’re now cancer-free. When did you So in that regard, I think the JET Program, with receive this prognosis, and what was all of its false start problems that it’s had over your treatment like? the years, has actually helped play a role there. I was fi rst diagnosed in July 2008, and I had osteosarcoma, which is so rare that only one What advice would you give to this year’s hundred adults a year get it. Twenty years ago new JET recruits? they would have cut off my leg and hoped, since Don’t get caught up in the Westerner ghetto. there was a fi fteen percent survival rate. They Plunge yourself as deep into Japanese culture determined that one cocktail of chemo could as you can, learn as much as you can, and then Author Bruce Feiler and family. (Nancy Heffernan) be effective, and I had that. I basically had four come back and share your experiences with months of chemo, a 15-hour surgery to rebuild What was it like fi nding a publisher? those who haven’t been, who aren’t able to do my leg, and then four more months of chemo. I ended up with the name of an agent who was that. You are pioneers, but you will be most So I’ve technically been cancer-free since my kind of a friend of a friend, and I sent my stuff effective if you really step out of your comfort surgery when they cut the tumor out of my to her….I wrote a proposal, and I sold it about a zone, really go deep, then be sure to come back femur. I’ve been cancer-free now for about 15 month later. I mean, it doesn’t happen that way, and tell us what you’ve seen. months. I’m full of hope walking forward. but it happened to me. I was 24 years old. And even more amazing, here I am—21 years later— Have you ever referred someone to the Congratulations on your recovery. What essential the only thing I’ve ever done is write program? were the most important things that you books. No, I don’t tend to hear—I know a lot of people and your family learned by forming the have read Learning to Bow in colleges, so I know Council of Dads? Have you returned to Japan since your that it has inspired [people], and every now and I think that, fi rst, there’s great power with sitting time there as a teacher? then I’ll see something on the Internet or a blog down with your closest friends and telling them That’s a really good question, and the answer is on somebody who has been inspired to do the what they mean to you. So I feel like what we no. I’ve kind of been to every place around it, JET Program because of Learning to Bow, but I did with the Council of Dads was kind of build a but I’ve never been back to Japan. I keep look- don’t get sought out by a lot of people. bridge between our family and our friends, and ing for the right assignment, because I really fi gure out a way to get our friends intimately want to go back and kind of write something, Does the Japanese government ever ask involved in our children’s lives. When I asked but I haven’t been back. you for advice or to speak about it? each dad what’s the one piece of advice that you That’s a good question, and the answer is no. would give to our girls, I felt like we ended up One of your more recent books, Walking Right when I was fi rst published, the Japanese with this sort of guidebook of wisdom that is not the Bible, was also translated into Japa- government was particularly interested and only valuable for our children, but really valu- nese. Has Japan been receptive to your kind of summoned me to the embassy, but I able for us and guides how we’ve been in our other works? don’t do that much talking about Japan…I’m lives. So I feel like the life lessons we’ve learned Korea and China have been a really good market not really a professional Japan person. I’m a have really been the biggest gift. for me. I’m not convinced that Japan has been a professional traveler and Japan’s a big part of big market for me. my life, but I don’t really excel as a kind of ex- What made you want to write Learning pert on Japanese culture, which I’m really not. to Bow? What kind of outlook did you take back It kind of grew out of a series of letters I wrote home with you from your time in Japan? How does it feel to be known as the most home, of the “you’re not gonna believe what People go to Japan today and they call me up, notable or accomplished alumnus to happened to me” variety. And when I went which still happens from time to time. I say the come out of JET? back to Savannah six months later, everywhere same thing that I’ve said for decades now, which I think that it’s an incredible honor, and I like I went, people said, “I just loved your letters,” is: don’t go over to Japan trying to change it, what it communicates to the JET community, and I said, “Have we met?” It turned out that thinking that you know better. Go there trying which is that you can go from your experience my grandmother had copied them, and they got to understand…I think that that essential way as a JET into whatever you want [Con’t. on 12]

8 May/June 2010 JETAANY.org/magazine Nancy Ikehara chills with George Takei at Ambassador Nishimiya’s residence. JETAANY VP Monica Yuki (center) teaches kids origami at Japan-a-mania.

Four teams of four participated in JETAANY’s Quiz Night at Amber restaurant. Quiz Night’s fi rst place team (Jon Hills, Kendall Murano, Elizabeth Bass and Ann Chow) with quiz master Pam Kavalam.

JETs practice drumming at PMT Studio with professional taiko group Cobu. The JETAANY gang at Brooklyn Botanic Garden’s annual Sakura Matsuri festival.

May/June 2010 JETAANY.org/magazine 9 for me. You Can Dance! It was the show’s fi fth season, and I made it to Vegas Though I enjoyed hip-hop, it was where they select the top twenty. just for fun and I wanted to be in- Unfortunately I couldn’t get past volved with other genres that would the fi nal cut, but people will some- Self-described dancer, performer, workers. be more connected to business. So times notice me on the street be- choreographer and writer Nobuya I began studying ballet, jazz, tap cause of my moment of fame. Nagahama is part of the New York It was tough when I fi rst got here and modern dance, and I am still dance troupe Feliciano Dance four years ago in terms of adjust- in the process of learning these Wow! Did you become famous Company, which specializes in ing. My fi rst shock was going to techniques. I initially came over back home as well because of hip-hop. The 28-year-old is also McDonald’s and not being greeted here with the intent of staying for that? experienced in the genres of ballet, Well, in Japan the show is known jazz, tap and modern dance, and as American Dance Idol and can even appeared as a reality show only be seen on a special cable contestant on So You Think You channel, so there was limited ac- Can Dance. JQ talked to him about cess. But there was a clip of me his dancing life and future goals. on You Tube so people back home were able to see my audition. In Ja- Tell us about your journey pan dancing is not as much a part from Japan to New York. of the culture as it is here. There I am from Hachioji, which is a sub- are dance shows, but they are only urb in the western part of Tokyo. aired late at night. Plus it is not as When I was young, being a teacher pervasive in terms of having many was a dream that I started chasing movies or shows about dance. It is in middle school. Becoming a danc- still a somewhat minor culture that er was also my dream, and I began is becoming popular, but it is not dancing when I was in high school. quite there yet. At that time it was very hard for me to decide which way to go, dancing I think in Japan if you want to be or teaching. But I fi gured that you a dancer you have to have other can’t really make money as a danc- jobs to support yourself, whereas er in Japan so I decided to quit and here there are more opportunities become a teacher. due to the sheer amount of audi- tions available. In New York it all I taught home economics and en- seems to be part of business, like if joyed it, but I couldn’t stop danc- a certain company has a party they ing. While teaching I still practiced, might invite dancers to come per- both outside of school and in a bu- form but this is not something you katsu (club) that I was in charge would have in Japan. of. After a year I opted to quit my job and pursue dancing full-time Nobuya performing with the Feliciano Dance Company. (Takahiro Ueno) It sounds like you have had a in New York. This was a diffi cult lot of success already. Do you decision for me as I was a young with a smile like in Japan. Also, I just one year and then returning to have any more dreams? teacher loved by my students, but was a smoker at the time and I was Japan to audition for big jobs, but I Ideally I would like to serve as a for the sake of my study of dance I surprised to fi nd that this is a real changed my mind midway through. cultural bridge between Japan and had to come. communication tool here! For ex- I realized I wanted to stay longer, America. Like spend three months ample, people would ask me for a as I love the audience here who is performing in New York, followed Was it your fi rst time in New cigarette or a light even though we always honest with their responses. by three months performing in York and was it what you ex- didn’t know each other. If they like your performance you Tokyo. Then have three months of pected? will get cheers, but if not you will producing a show in New York, fol- I had been to New York once be- Also, I couldn’t believe how open- get booed off stage. lowed by a two-month workshop fore as a tourist, so I kind of knew minded people here are. I would be in Tokyo. Ultimately, I really want what to expect. I’m here only for complimented on my glasses, bag What kind of performances to connect artists from Japan and dance, so if there are slight incon- or coat and I didn’t know what to does the Feliciano Dance New York. veniences about the lifestyle I have say. Now I am able to graciously Company put on? to bear them. I think it is easy to get accept the praise and often com- We usually have about one show Nobuya featured in New York around whether by public trans- pliment the person back in return! per month in various venues. In Times article: www.nytimes. portation or taxis, which are not Also, the hugging culture was awk- the past we have performed at the com/2009/02/07/arts/07feli. that expensive. Some people say ward for me at fi rst, but now I love Apollo Theater, at the Jerry Lewis html the atmosphere of the city is crazy using this as a greeting. Telethon and in the Netherlands. and that it is no place to live but I We also had a show last year at the Nobuya’s So You Think You Can am in Woodside, Queens which is Were you able to fi nd success Joyce SoHo that was reviewed by Dance audition: http://myre- both quiet and safe. in dance right away? the New York Times (“Nagahama alitytelevision.com/2009/05/ I was studying dance at the Peri is a scene stealer with his sinuous nobuya-nagahama-sytycd-5- The food is defi nitely better in Ja- Dance Center, and one of the teach- blend of popping and voguing”). audition-locking-video pan, but because of my home ec ers there was the artistic director of background I can make my own a dance company called the Feli- We are a relatively young dance Check out Nobuya’s (Japanese) Japanese food as it’s something ciano Dance Company. He invited company with only about thirty blog Nobuya’s Dance Life in New that’s expensive to go out for. In the me to join, and this was my profes- members and still growing. I per- York: http://ameblo.jp/no- beginning when I did go out to eat sional start. Our company is based form on my own as well on a fairly buya-ny and his MySpace page: I couldn’t quite get used to tipping, on hip-hop, but not the street ver- regular basis, usually in the city but www.myspace.com/nobuyan especially when the service was sion so much as a theatrical version sometimes at clubs and theaters worse than what I was used to in geared toward the stage. In Japan I outside New York. To tell you the Visit the Feliciano Dance Company Japan. I have come to understand had only done hip-hop on the street truth, I actually tried out for the at www.showthemovement. how important the tip is for service and at some clubs, so this was new television program So You Think com/blog/about-2.

10 May/June 2010 JETAANY.org/magazine [Con’t. from 6] ethnomusicology could manage and it differentiated department but also studied more us from other fi lm venues in the conventional Western music theo- city. Actual selection of the fi lms, ry, music history and composition. however, was handled by the fi lm Still, I was able to do research and staff. In today’s environment, it study modern dance through the is impossible to be a performing period between Isadora Duncan arts programmer without business and the Judson Church movement. skills. I wrote my thesis on the relation- ship between modern dance and This is where my experience in the the visual arts. design industry has come in han- dy. I am constantly dealing with Why did you come to the U.S.? budgets, schedules, coordination, I came in 1988, when the environ- writing contracts with artists, and ment in Japan was not supportive At Japan Society this spring: Yamamoto Kyogen Company performs a scene from making proposals to attract do- of artists. My husband at the time Shido Hogaku, a classic comedic Japanese play; j-CATION special guest Takeru nors and corporate constituents for was a visual artist and had dual Kobayashi talks about life as a competitive eater. (Yoshiaki Kanda, George Hirose) fundraising. citizenship. New York was a great place for artists to mingle and meet In 1997, a director from the Asian music and drama to the traditional What are your current plans? and there was a support network Cultural Council told me that some- performing arts. We recently show- Well, in order to accurately plan for for them. None of these things ex- one in performing arts at Japan So- cased a kyogen company from Ja- the performing arts, I have to plan isted in Japan at that time. Nowa- ciety wanted to meet me. That was pan. I’ve also been responsible for two and a half years ahead of time. days, though, the situation has im- the 90th anniversary of the Society managing the U.S. tours of Japa- So right now I’m consulting with proved, at least for Tokyo. and they were looking for full-time nese dance and theater companies. some dance and theater companies staff for the busy season. So far, we have produced tours for in Japan to come here in 2012. I What was your fi rst job in New Rinko-gun, Seinendan, Ku Na’uka, need time to raise money, since it’s York? I initially turned them down, but SPAC, Kayoko Shiraishi’s Hyaku so expensive to bring performers to I stayed in the design business for changed my mind when told that Monogatari, Takashi Kawamura’s the U.S. This summer, we are get- a while, receiving work from Japan the performing arts department AOI/KOMACHI and the company ting ready for another Japan Cuts as a coordinator between the U.S. would give its staff members a lot Yubiwa Hotel. festival. and Japan. But I gradually got fed of comp time because it involved a up with working in a commercial lot of overtime work. I accepted the I also manage the fi lm program but We recently completed j-CATION, industry. I was always interested in job when I realized I could use the I don’t handle the actual curation, which was our biggest event ever. art for art’s sake and began writing free time to continue my own out- since fi lm is not my specialty. I set It was an open house that involved articles for major Japanese maga- side business. In 2003, I became the program’s general direction coordinating all of Japan Society’s zines to introduce America’s art director of performing arts and in and also handle part of the pro- programming areas, from perform- support systems, and I received 2006, I became artistic director of gramming of the lecture series. For ing arts and fi lm, to the visual arts, commissions from Japan to do re- Japan Society. It is a vice president instance, I started the Japan Cuts education, politics, business and search on this subject. Gradually, administrative level position and festival focusing entirely on new industry. I was in charge of the I established myself as a freelance prior to that, there was no such po- fi lms made in Japan. I did this to whole event and had to coordinate researcher, writer and critic for sition at the Society. recognize the recent surge in Japa- all of the different Japan Society ar- Japanese newspapers and agen- nese fi lmmaking. eas together. It was a great success, cies. What are your main responsi- and I look forward to doing some- bilities? Many of these fi lms were unavail- thing similar in the future. How did you get your job at My main responsibility is program- able in the U.S., so my staff made Japan Society? ming for performing arts. Once a translations and subtitles and pro- Visit Japan Society’s performing Well, that’s a funny story because I month, we present some sort of jected them onto the movie screen. arts page at www.japansoci- was not looking for a full-time sala- performing arts in our theater, This was a unique program that ety.org/performing_arts_ ried job when it was offered to me. varying from contemporary dance, only the resources of Japan Society program.

On an April night in Brooklyn at Williams- burg’s Knitting Factory, the fi ve members of Echostream are warming up backstage before a show. In a space smaller than the average Man- hattan studio apartment, the band members are splayed out along a piecemeal set of sofas and chairs that look like they were salvaged from various sidewalk corners over the course of the year. They’re relaxed and chatty—a group of seasoned musicians in their element. Between breaks to apply stage makeup and tousle hair, they take the time to answer my questions about their music, their history, and their experiences playing at various Japanese pop culture festi- vals across the country.

Echostream has been a fi xture in New York City since 2005, in the interim pro- [Con’t. on 12] Echostream live with guest bassist at the Knitting Factory. Foreground from left: Tony, Ryoko, Tomo, Jen and C.J.

May/June 2010 JETAANY.org/magazine 11 [Con’t. from 8] to do. If you want a great privilege, and if anybody head. I think what I would change auction shaping up for The Council to go into Japanese business, if reading this wants to send me on is, I didn’t go to Japan attempting of Dads, and I guess my fi rst prior- you want to go into education, if assignment, I’m ready to accept. to write a book, so I have lived my ity is to keep myself healthy and be you want to go into media, if you life slightly differently having writ- around for my girls, and to keep want to go into anything, this is a When JET has its 25th anni- ten that book. I found out I was fi nding ways to travel and to tell stepping stone to making whatever versary, they’ll probably be very good at describing scenes and stories. dream you have come true, so I looking for keynote speak- places that I was at, even if it had think that’s the message...I’ve writ- ers… been a while. I was less good in Visit Bruce’s homepage at http:// ten nine books, I’ve had four near- Oh, I’d love to do that, that would dialogue and in conversation, so I brucefeiler.com. Watch an types of sellers, and I have this stat- be a great thrill…I have to say, I think in subsequent experiences in interview with Bruce and his ure, but I didn’t have it then; I was was [recently] on the cover of a big my life, I’ve written down snippets wife Linda from the Today just a guy writing letters home, and magazine here, USA Weekend, and of conversation so you kind of cap- show at http://today.ms- I just had this dream. So I think it’s one of the fi rst people to write me ture people’s real voices. That’s the nbc.msn.com/id/26184891/ a way to communicate to young was someone I knew in Tochigi-ken one thing that I would have done vp/36823506#36823506. people who are confi dent and bold in 1987. differently, but that was before the enough to go off deep into another book. culture early in their lives—it is a Looking back on Learning to great message to them that you can Bow, is there anything you’d It’s great that you were able go from there to whatever platform like to change or add to the to get a sense of your skills you want. book? through your experiences [Laughs] Yeah…I’ve written eight there. What was your best and Have you thought about writ- books since then, so I hope that worst memory of Japan? ing another book about Ja- I’ve learned a few tricks of the trade I’ll say my best memory was climb- pan? since then. But you know what? ing Mt. Fuji, and the worst memory Sure, I would like in my life to go [quotes the book’s opening line] “I was…trying to fi t my feet into the back and revisit that. I mean, we’re dropped my pants and felt a rush of free giveaway slippers at Japanese coming up on twenty-fi ve years cool wind against my legs”…when I schools. since I was living and working in wrote that, I really kind of felt like, Tochigi-ken, and I would love the wow, this is a really natural thing, Yeah, those are tough. opportunity to go back, walk those I like writing stories like this…I’m [Laughs] I haven’t thought about streets, seek out friends, maybe sure the overwriting and the bad that in a long time. some of those students, and use ideas and the sloppy sentences and that as a prism to talk about how some of the awkwardness is there. What’s next for Bruce Feiler? Japan has changed in the last quar- I don’t think I would change any- I don’t know…I’m actually sitting ter century. I think that would be thing in the book off the top of my here at what looks like a Hollywood

[Con’t. from 11] -ducing two albums and per- amazed time and again by the loyalty and cre- centered on Tomo and Ryoko. At center stage, forming for large crowds at countless Japanese- ativity of their fans, from surprise requests for Ryoko is a dark angel in a black and white dress, themed events. At the core of the band are key- autographs in supermarkets, to a unique set of belting out haunting vocals. To her right, Tomo boardist Tony and vocalist Ryoko, who met at Echostream dolls sent by one fan. Although it’s has a Johnny Ramone-like stage presence: the Royal Academy of Music in London where growing steadily, the Anime Circuit scene is still thrashing at the Gibson guitar on his knee, the they studied classical performance. relatively small, so a lot of the bands get to know energy he pours into his playing conveys to the each other from playing multiple events togeth- eyes what the raw emotion of his craft conveys They began writing music together there in er. For those interested in checking out other to the ears. 1999. Ryoko signed with a major label in Ja- bands in the scene, Tony and Tomo recommend pan, and Tony moved there with her in order Japanese/English electronic group FAKE? and Toward the end of the set, the band launches to produce music for her and other artists on J-rock band Grapevine. into some new music in order to give their fans the label. Tony and Echostream lead guitarist a taste of their upcoming third album release. Tomo began also working together around this The main showroom at the Knitting Factory is Echostream is branching into new directions for time as well. about half full, and it’s easy to tell that a decent this next album, looking to replicate the circu- number of people have arrived early for the next lar rhythms and cinematic scope of electronic After about fi ve years of producing for various band: In the middle of the opening band’s set, sound, but without using electronic instru- artists, Tony and Ryoko decided to move to New a Japanese couple with matching puffy brown ments. York to make a new kind of music. This is when hairdos and combat boots waits patiently in the Echostream truly began, and it was at this point back for Echostream to go on. By the time Tony For one of their last songs, Tony, who has been that their fi rst album was released. Shortly and Ryoko take the stage, the room has fi lled behind his keyboard and sound mixer for much thereafter, Echostream began playing at anime up signifi cantly. A trio of photographers is now of the show, steps out from behind his equip- festivals across the U.S. Tomo moved over from poised at the base of the stage. ment, playing a vintage French horn for the Japan shortly thereafter, and Jen and C.J., the crowd. The Japanese couple, which has moved two drummers who perform onstage simultane- Echostream’s sound defi es easy categoriza- to the front of the crowd, is mouthing lyrics to ously and help give the band its unique sound, tion. The mix of Ryoko’s ethereal vocals, Tony’s the song—an impressive display of fandom, then completed Echostream in its present form. electronic patterns and Tomo’s crunchy guitar considering the song had been released on riffs may call up comparisons to Evanescence MySpace just a few days prior to the show. Ja- So what’s it like playing the so-called “Anime or Curve, but the songs’ effi cient, interlocking pan is well known for these “superfans,” and the Circuit”? Thanks to the recent Japanese pop parts and sonic minimalism give the music a band is thankful for them. While Echostream culture boom in the U.S., bands at conventions Radiohead-like feel at times. Although there’s may not have the name recognition of a U2 or like the New York Anime Festival and Katsucon no overt Japanese infl uence in Echostream’s a Beatles quite yet, can either of these groups Japanese culture festival in Washington, D.C. music, it’s the Japanese members of the band claim the honor of performing in front of a are guaranteed throngs of instant admirers, of- that stay in your mind long after they’ve left the thousand screaming fans with blue hair and tentimes dressed in cosplay standards such as stage. handmade silver jumpsuits? Lolita Gothic or Dragonball Z iterations. Of the many shots that the trio of scuttling pho- Visit Echostream’s MySpace page at www. It’s a crowd like no other, and the band has been tographers takes of the band, a large amount are myspace.com/echostream.

12 May/June 2010 JETAANY.org/magazine The T.I.C. restaurant group does it beer over the hearths to any area again. The same folks behind Sak- along the 26-seat counter, provid- agura, Cha-An Teahouse, Sake Bar ing a unique interactive experience Decibel and others, brings another that connects you to the master unique dining experience to the and fellow seated patrons. (Don’t East Village. Opened last October, be surprised if your neighbor asks Robataya is a charcoal grilling es- what you’ve just ordered.) tablishment with an unassuming fl air about it. The shop’s exterior The paddles are also used to trans- not only bears its name in kanji port ingredients to the grill from only, but its simple wooden doors the bountiful selection of fresh pro- are fl anked by a single wall-mount- duce and meats displayed in front ed lantern, looking more like an iza- of you. This feat often requires the kaya entrance you’d fi nd in remote grillmeister to climb over the fi re Robataya’s grillmeister at work. areas of Japan. pit—rather precariously—for some show-stopping theatrics. sight of ayu, or sweetfi sh, being mium will set you back $20 to $30 The serene entrance, however, grilled on skewers stuck vertically a carafe. Check out the sake ban- contrasts sharply from the rowdi- Now for the food. My friend and into a sand pit and just had to have ner on Robataya’s Web site for the ness within. As you enter, you’re I plowed through the robatayaki one. Together with a few yaki- drinks menu. not only greeted with a hearty “ir- meats (chicken, duck, lamb, steak) onigiri, it made for a nostalgic taste rashaimase,” but are immediately and veggie menu. Standard skew- of Japan. Loved it. I suggest making reservations be- struck by the sights and sounds ered fare such as momo (chicken forehand and trying to limit your (and smells!) of an open grill area thigh) and tsukune (minced chick- These small tapas-style dishes range party size to two to three peeps for with two small charcoal hearths. en meat) were a delight. Both are in price from $5 to $8, and our din- counter seating. Larger groups may This is where all the action’s at. grilled with your choice of salt or ner tab for two came out to roughly nestle into a booth in the larger, teriyaki sauce (tare). $70. Robataya also boosts an exten- back dining area, but you will not Here, the wait staff yells your or- sive seasonal sake menu with which regret taking in all the grilling ac- der to the genki grillmeisters, who Everything was simply and deli- to wash everything down. Depend- tion that the front room offers. shout it back in jubilant confi rma- ciously prepared, but the fl ame- ing on your choice (and in my case, tion. The chef then wields a long- grilled nasu eggplant and smoky volume!) of drink, the tab can run Robataya New York is located at handled wooden paddle to deliver enoki mushrooms were the stand- high. Selected warm sake averages 231 East 9th Street. For more info, food and, to my surprise, bottled out items here. We then caught $13 for a carafe; daiginjo super-pre- visit www.robataya-ny.com.

a sake primer, and it’s fi lled with technical in- formation that empowers readers to take their sake knowledge to the next level. The chapter on rice varieties goes into great detail about unusual rice strains such as Gohyakumangoku, Koshitanrei, and Miyamanishiki.

When asked about any unique sake in the book, Published by the Japan Times Masuyama points out Midorikawa, or Green 90 pages River Sake, that is snow-aged. The sake bottles $45.00 listed price on Amazon.com are aged outside in snow country, retaining freshness, and resulting in a sake that is mellow Sake afi cionados will want The Niigata Sake and well-balanced. Book. A conversation with its translator, Mike Masuyama, reveals that it is the fi rst sake book Other interesting information presented in the to be originally written in Japanese and trans- book includes tips for tasting sake, sake serv- lated into English. Masuyama is a food scientist ing temperature, acidity in sake, the SMV (Sake with a strong technical background in beer and Meter Value), and easy-to-understand tips for wine. the classifi cation of sake. The sake brewing process is covered in great length. And also, of Why Niigata for sake? According to Masuyama, course, why Niigata is ideal for producing sake. Niigata is an excellent source for rice, and the climate zone is close to the Sea of Japan, which What attracted me the most to this book is the ensures cold winter months ideal for brewing fi rst chapter’s full color photos of the major sake sake. breweries in Niigata with notes on each sake. This is ideal for non-Japanese who are chal- Many Niigata breweries continue to use tradi- lenged with reading the beautiful labels. tional methods of brewing, so many of the sake featured in this book are craft sake. Masuyama If you are passionate about sake, The Niigata notes that Niigata sake are good for cold drink- Sake Book will be an essential resource. ing to best showcase the delicate notes and aroma. Read samples of The Niigata Sake Book at http://bookclub.japantimes.co.jp/act/ This book is actually more of a textbook than en/Detail.do?id=1353.

May/June 2010 JETAANY.org/magazine 13 he describes as at that time “still very much a er—is no stranger to the spiritual side of Japan. work in progress.” (JET was offi cially formed in In Hitching Rides with Buddha, he recounted 1987 from the merger of two other programs.) his chance meeting with Akihira Kawahara, He was posted to Amakusa-shi, on an island a retired schoolteacher, amateur philologist south of Nagasaki off the west coast of Kyushu. and—according to Ferguson—“the worst driver “When I fi rst arrived,” said Ferguson, “I was in the history of the universe.” Kawahara-sensei the only non-Japanese person working on the insists that in 1980, he was visited by a vision of Will Ferguson is a JET Program alum and three- island south of Hondo,” except for the local the Buddhist saint Kobo Daishi, who instructed time winner of the Stephen Leacock Medal, Catholic priest. “I loved Amakusa…it was one of him to write and publish an English-language which is awarded annually for the best humor- the most beautiful places I have ever lived. Hav- guide (now sadly out of print) to the 88-temple ous work of literature by a Canadian author. ing worked in South America, it reminded me pilgrimage circuit on Shodoshima in the Inland While Ferguson is best known for his books set a bit of Ecuador,” where Ferguson once lived. Sea, a miniature version of the circuit on Shi- in and about Canada, JQ asked him about his Elaborating, he said Amakusa had a “semi- koku. time in Japan in the 1990s. tropical feel” to it: “I rode my bike everywhere, and especially loved the coast to Sakitsu, a small Using that book as a guide, and accompanied Every visitor to Japan, and certainly every resi- Catholic village in a fi shing cove.” partly by Kawahara-sensei and by a series of dent foreigner, has wondered at the tendency of Buddhist priests whom he met on Shodo Island, the Japanese to costume themselves for their Ferguson described the “song of Shodo”—a hobbies. Bruce Feiler, an American JET alum beautiful, mountainous island—as “the hollow who faced off with birdwatchers in knee britch- tonk-tonk of wooden Buddhist clappers and the es and survivalists in camoufl age gear at Nikko low mantra of pilgrims.” National Park, concluded in his book Learning to Bow that the Japanese consciously dress the Regarding his personal kinship for Japanese re- part in order to fully immerse themselves in ligion, Ferguson said, “I was married in a Shinto their roles, whether as birdwatcher or survival- shrine, but remain generally agnostic. I do like ist, pilgrim or fi sherman. Shintoism, though; it focuses on the magical in the everyday world. No soaring cathedrals Will Ferguson, probably Japan’s best-known or obtuse theology, but sacred trees, sacred is- hitchhiker, takes a more nuanced view. Encoun- lands, sacred mountains.” tering bus tour pilgrims on Shikoku, dressed up as if they were 19th century pedestrian pilgrims Ferguson’s chance meeting with Kawahara on in outfi ts complete with white vestments, straw Shodoshima refl ects a theme in his Japanese hats and walking sticks, Ferguson posits four travels. Hitchhiking meant meeting and talking possible explanations: with people the length of Japan, and the op- portunity for insight. One of the priests on Sho- First, the romantic explanation: the one advanced by doshima invited Ferguson to stay in his home, Feiler, that costume betokens an immersion in one’s where Ferguson noted that the priest’s son’s role. Transformers toy “was the perfect talisman for Second, the cynical explanation: that the Japanese are anyone traveling in Japan.” After all, he noted, wholly superfi cial, authentic appearance masking an Transformers are “a form of ‘identity origami’”: empty ritual. they “don’t hide their true self, they rearrange it “I loved Amakusa. It was one of the most beautiful entirely to fi t the situation.” Third, the realistic explanation: that the Japanese are places I have ever lived.” (Genki Alexander Ferguson) culturally disposed to treat uniforms seriously, and The often astounding generosity of Japanese— there’s often a fi ne line between uniform and costume. Regarding life as a JET in Amakusa, Ferguson particularly rural Japanese—to foreigners is, of said, “I never found it hard getting involved with And fourth, “the Will Ferguson Explanation”: that course, well known to JQ’s readers (while trav- dressing up is fun! And it’s way more fun to do it with a the community because I was in a small village.” eling as a JET, the interviewer himself was once group. “The bus pilgrims are like a travelling Shriner’s He remembers his role carrying a mikoshi (por- taken in by a family on Shodoshima). However, convention.” Buddhism is just an excuse. table shrine) in Amakusa’s summer festival: “I when trying to get a room at rural inns, Fergu- was invited to take part in the festival. The AET son sometimes found it necessary to grease his When JQ asked if he had further insight, Fer- before me had, as had the AET before her. It was path with a useful ruse: what he calls his “cousin guson replied that to him it “seems that both a neighborhood invitation. In villages you’re routine.” the cynical and the romanticized explanations always dragged into the local festival. I helped refl ect more on the person observing than on carry several mikoshi, always ended up sprayed When faced with locals apprehensive about the subject itself.” In other words, the position with water.” dealings with a foreigner, he claimed to be the of the observer is the key to understanding the cousin of the local ALT. Instantly, doors opened. observed. Ferguson’s habitual position is itiner- In Hitching Rides with Buddha, he movingly “Even the [hotel] service usually improves. Af- ant, intimate and sardonic. described one such festival, and the classic ex- ter all, I am one of the family.” Asked if he ever pat frustration of never quite fi tting in: ran into any problems as a result of the ruse, he In the spring of 1994, Ferguson, the author of recalled that, surprisingly, it never did. “It never The Hitchhiker’s Guide to Japan, hitchhiked The shrine was both our glory and our burden, like really backfi red on me,” he said, “though I kept from Cape Sata, in the far south of Kyushu, to being born Japanese I suppose. We…hoisted it onto expecting it to.” Cape Soya, at the northern end of Hokkaido, our shoulders and entered a traffi c jam of other such shrines. We elbowed our way into the throng. We following—and sometimes outpacing—the chanted challenges. We swerved and collided. We So if you can recall an instance from your own cherry blossom front as it moved north through battled our way down main street and, as we went, time in Japan when a neighbor insisted he met the country. Based on that trip, Ferguson wrote people threw buckets of water at us and sprayed our your mysterious cousin, Will Ferguson might Hitching Rides with Buddha (previously pub- heads with beer. We were running a gauntlet and at the have been the culprit. If that mysterious cousin lished as Hokkaido Highway Blues), in which end of it we collapsed, soaked in sweat and water and ran up your tab at the local izakaya, though, he describes his odyssey from south to north, alcohol. We were triumphant. We ranted and raved. Ferguson swears it wasn’t him. After all, “I may and muses on Japan, pizza toast (“neither pizza We congratulated ourselves hoarse and far beyond the be a travel weasel, but I’m not some common level of actual achievement. Damn, it was fun. Then nor toast…it is decidedly less than the sum of one of the men turned to me and said, “You foreigners grifter.” That’s his story, anyway, and he’s stick- its parts”) and the dilemma of the expat. It was are so much stronger than we Japanese,” and instantly ing to it. JET that brought Ferguson to Japan. In his fi nal I was outside the circle again, looking in. year at York University in Toronto in 1990, Fer- Visit Will’s homepage at www.willferguson. guson signed up with the JET Program, which Ferguson—shrine carrier and pilgrim-consider- ca. Cover photo courtesy of CBC.

14 May/June 2010 JETAANY.org/magazine With Golden Week behind us, JETs everywhere are now setting their sights on the next excuse to go out and party. In that spirit, JQ presents these completely ridiculous…

Top 11 Reasons We’re Looking Forward to Summer

11. Been practicing how to make character bento since October

10. Launch that Southern All Stars tribute band you’ve been rehearsing in parents’ basement

9. Offi ce workers: get crazy! Roll up those shirtsleeves!

8. Who needs Eclipse when you’ve got the 13th(?!) Pokémon fl ick dropping in July

7. You heard this might be the year they roll out that rainy sea- son commemorative chuuhai

6. “Atsui, naa” becomes a more legit excuse for forgetting work commitments, birthdays, etc.

5. Show new friends that In- destructable Fly Swatter you For more Life After the B.O.E., visit lifeaftertheboe.com. brought back from Japan

4. It’s totally not exploitative to fi ll the mag with photos like this -->

3. Six words: Kitty-chan in a two piece

2. On a clear day, you can see Godzilla

1. With this handy chart, fi nally win your annual “Kobayashi kooky hairdo” offi ce pool (cut JQ in on 15% plus a case of Asahi)

May/June 2010 JETAANY.org/magazine 15 JETAANY SHOPPING WO SHIMASHOU!!!

16 May/June 2010 JETAANY.org/magazine