©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 621

Index

1Malaysia policy 566 Aquaria KLCC 47 Balai Nobat 202 Bau 411-13 8 Heeren Street 213 aquariums Bandar 375-8, 376 Bawang Assan Longhouse 8Q SAM 477 Aquaria KLCC 47 Bandar Seri Begawan Village 417-18 Lagenda Dalam 456-67, 458 Bazaar Baru Chow Kit 67, 73 Taman 185 accommodation 461-2 beaches A Underwater World (Pulau activities 456-60 Air Batang (ABC) 247-8 Abu Bakar 252 Langkawi) 185-6 drinking 464 Batu Ferringhi 176-9 accommodation, see Underwater World emergencies 465 Brunei 460 also individual locations (Sentosa Island) 498 entertainment 464 Cherating 257-60, 259 Brunei 454, 471 architecture 20, 575 food 462-4 Genting 250 language 611 Ipoh 118 592-3 internet access 465 Juara 249-50 itineraries 144, 501, , 144 macaques 461 Kampung Paya 250 473, 515-19, 501 537, 538 medical services 465 Mukut 251 156 Acheen St Mosque 155 money 465 Nipah 251 Putrajaya 104 activities 28-34, see also postal services 465 Port Dickson 113-15 Seremban 109-10 individual activities road safety 457 Pulau Besar () 237-8 Architecture Museum 209 A’Famosa 209, 212 shopping 464 Pulau Besar (Melaka) area codes 19 A’Famosa Resort 225-6 sights 456-60 225-6 art galleries, see galleries, 339 Pulau Lang Tengah 291-2 museums tourist information 465 Air Batang (ABC) 247-8 Pulau Langkawi 10, 189, arts 21, 574-8, see also tours 460-1 186-7, 11 Air Hangat 188-9 individual arts travel to/from 465-6 Pulau Manukan 320 air travel contemporary travel within 466-7 airfares 600 sculpture 485 Bangar 468-9 Pulau Pangkor 134-40, , airlines 600 Asah Waterfall 246 Banggi, Pulau 336 135 137 Pulau Perhentian 9, 286, airports 600 Asian Civilisations Museum Bangsar Baru 65-6, 83-4, , to/from Brunei 465-6 477 86, 89-90, 84 284 9 Pulau Rawa 238-9 to/from Malaysia 600 306 Bank Kerapu 273 Pulau Redang 292-3 to/from Singapore 541-2 ATMs 595 Bank Negara Malaysia Mu- Pulau Sibu 238 within Malaysia 601 Aur, Pulau 239 seum & Art Gallery 57 Pulau Tinggi 238 alcoholic drinks 584 Ayor Keroh 225 Bario 444-8 Salang 248-9 Alor Gajah 225-6 Barisan Nasional (National Front) 548, 558, 560 Singapore 500 200-4, 201 B basketry 577 Beaufort 372-3 ambuyat 36, 82, 463, 581 Ba Kelalan 448 Batang Ai 416-17 Beaufort Division 372-4 amusement parks, see Baba House 483 theme parks Batang Duri 470 bedbugs 609 Baba-Nonya, see Peranakan Batang Rejang 421-6 bedil (cannons) 460 animals, see individual spe- people cies, wildlife sanctuaries bathrooms 541, 597 Bee Yinn Low 169 Baba-Nonya Heritage & reserves, zoos Museum 214 batik 577 belacan 580 animism 571-2 Badan Warisan Malaysia 51 courses & classes 59, 89, Belaga 425 Annah Rais Longhouse 250, 258, 276-7 Badawi, Abdullah 560 Belait District 467-8 408-9 galleries 58 Bahasa Malaysia (Malay), bersilat (Malaysian martial apes, see orang-utans art) 576 see language shopping 59, 89, 172, 250 Besar, Pulau (Johor) 237-8 bak kut teh 38 16, 99-100, 17 Besar, Pulau (Melaka) 225-6 Bako National Park 400-4 Batu Ferringhi 176-9 bicycling, see cycling Map Pages 000 Bakun Dam Project 587-8 Batu Maung 181 Bidayuh people 564 Photo Pages 000 Balai Besar 202 Batu Punggul 371-2 622 Bidong Island 301 Johor Bahru to Bukit Gemok Forest car travel Bilit 351-2 Singapore 232 Reserve 364 within Malaysia 602-3 Bintulu 426-7, 428 to Thailand 203, Bukit Larut 146 within Singapore 545-6 206 binturong (bear cat) 245 Bukit Malawati 108 Carey, Pulau 107 Kota Bharu to Thailand bird-singing contest 277 Bukit Nanas Forest Reserve casinos 101 280 47 birdwatching 34 Cat Musuem 389

INDEX INDEX to Indonesia Bukit Timah Nature Cape Rachado Forest Cathay Gallery 408 409 Reserve 494 Reserve 113, 114 Cave Villa 99-100 Malaysia to Indonesia bumiputra (indigenous Danum Valley 224 Malaysians) 559, 565 caves B-C Conversation Area 355  to Indonesia 366 bus travel Batu Caves 16, Endau-Rompin National 99-100, Sabah to the Philippines 17  Park 239 within Malaysia 602 343 Batu Tulug 348-9 Fraser’s Hill (Bukit within Singapore 544-5 to Brunei 439 Dark Cave 99 Fraser) 102 business hours Sarawak to Indonesia Deer Cave 440, Gomantong Caves 348, Malaysia 593 451 502-3, 511 350 Singapore 537 Singapore to Johor Fairy Cave 412 Jurong Bird Park 498 butterflies 331 Bahru 543, 544 Gomantong Caves 348, Kenong Rimba State Butterfly Park 55 , see Brunei, Sabah, 350 Park 268-9 Sarawak Cameron Highlands Gua Charas 258 Kinabalu National Park Butterfly Farm 129 Borneo Sun Bear Conser- Ipoh’s temple caves 119 328 Penang Butterfly Farm vation Centre 344-5 Lang’s Cave 440 KL Bird Park 53 180 Botanical Gardens 158 Mulu’s adventure caves Mt Kinabalu 328 Zoo Negara (National Brickfields 53-5, 65-6, 83, 441-2 Taman Negara 205 Zoo) 100 89-90, 54 Mulu’s show caves 440-1 Hills Park 367 Brunei 43, 454-72, 455 Niah National Park Boat Quay 477 accommodation 454, 471 C 429-31 boat travel 602 budget 471 cable cars 101 Sleeping Buddha Cave to/from Brunei 465, 601 climate 454 Cameron Bharat Tea 258 to/from Indonesia 601 currency 471 Plantation 127 Taman Negara Perlis 205 to/from Singapore 601 drugs & alcohol 471 Cameron Highlands 13, Tasik Chini 252, 588 to/from Thailand 601 126-33, , , economy 550 128 131 13 Tasik Kenyir 302 to/from the Philippines accommodation 129-32 emergencies 471 caving 33, 412 601 food 132-3 food 454 cell phones 19 boat trips 34 sights 127-9 highlights 455 in Malaysia 597 Kuantan 254 tea 127, 133 history 555 in Singapore 540 Melaka River Cruise 216 tours 129 holidays 471 cemeteries Pulau Langkawi 190, 191 travel to/from 133 legal matters 471 Bukit Brown Cemetery Sungai Kinabatangan travel within 133 medical services 471 496 349-50 trekking 130 money 465, 471 Bukit 215 Taman Negara 263 camping 592 politics 550, 568 Commonwealth Allied Boh Sungei Palas Tea canopy walkways War Cemetery 142 Estate 127, postal services 465 13 Danum Valley Conserva- Kranji War Memorial 495 public holidays 471 Bolkiah, Sultan Hassanal tion Area 355 Protestant Cemetery 156 568 tourist information Forestry Research cendol 36-8, 582 books 548, 549-50, 574 465, 471 Institute of Malaysia Central Market (Kota environment 587, 589 travel seasons 454 (FRIM) 100 Bharu) 279, 75, 78-9 history 552, 553, 554, travel to/from 465-6 Gunung Mulu National Central Market (Kota 555, 556, 558 travel within 466-7 Park 440 Kinabalu) 306 religion 569 visas 471 Hutan Rekreasi Air Changi 491-3 border crossings 600-1, women travellers 471 Keroh 225 Changi Museum & Chapel see also boat travel Brunei Museum 460 MacRitchie Reservoir 491 Brunei to Sabah 465 495 Buddha Tooth Relic Temple Changi Village 491-3 Brunei to Sarawak 466 484 Maliau Basin char kway teow 38 Johor Bahru to Indonesia 160, 570-1 Conservation Area 368 Cheah Kongsi 158 (Riau Islands) 234 budgeting 18, 471, 538, Pulau Langkawi 192 592, 594 Sabah 331 214 Bukit Brown Cemetery 496 Taman Negara 261-2 Bukit China 215 Ulu Temburong National 214 Park 471-2 Map Pages 000 Bukit Fraser (Fraser’s Hill) Cheong Fatt Tze Photo Pages 000 102-4, 103 Cape Rachado Forest Mansion 159 Reserve 113, 114 623 Cherating 257-60, 259 courses & classes planning 33-4 Esplanade – Theatres on children, travel with 61, batik 59, 89, 250, 258, Pulau Aur 239 the Bay 481 593-4, 609-10 276-7 Pulau Dayang 239 events 22-3 Chiling Waterfall 101 cooking 36, 59, 159, 177, Pulau Kapas 293-4 exchange rates 19 (George Town) 215-16, 273-6, 389, 513 Pulau Langkawi 190-1 Expedition Robinson 237 151-5, 163, 165, 167-8 gamelan 59 Pulau Lankayan 347-8 EZ-Link card 546

Chinatown () horse-riding 258 Pulau Mantanani 336 INDEX 16, 51-3, 61-2, 72, 86, language 59 Pulau Pemanggil 239 89, 50-1, 16, 80 meditation 59 F Pulau Perhentian 283-5, fax services 597 Chinatown (Melaka City) music & dance 59-60 287 C-G 213-14, 217-19, 220-1 festivals 22-3, 514 pewtersmithing 59 Pulau Redang 292-3  Chinatown (Singapore) food 390 surfing 249, 257 483-5, 516-17, 520-2, Pulau Sibu 238 Hindu 16, 571 yoga 58, 159, 513 528-9, 534-5, 482-3 Pulau Tinggi 238 Islamic 570 Chinatown Wet Market 67 crafts 21, 577, see Pulau Tioman 244-5 also markets, shopping film 577-8 Chinese Heritage Museum Semporna Archipelago fireflies 108, 257, 300 credit cards 595 359-61 229 Fish Cave (Gua Ikan) 282 cruises, see boat trips Sipadan 6, 359-61, , Chinese New Year 22, 35 3 7 fish heads, steamed 38 culture 562-8 Tunku Abdul Rahman Chinese opera 576 fishing currency 18 National Park 320-2 Chinese people 563 Cherating 257 Brunei 471 dolphins 405, 407, 498 Chingay 22 Taman Negara 262 Malaysia 595-6 Dr Ho Eng Hui 222 Chow Kit 55-7, 56-7 Singapore 539-40 Tasik Kenyir 302 churches Dr Sun Yat Sen’s Penang curries 580 Base 154 folk medicine 610 Changi Museum & customs regulations Dragon Boat Festival 22-3 food 35-9, 579-84, 594, see Chapel 491 also individual foods & drama 575-6 Church of the Malaysia 594 regions drinking water 607 Visitation 111 Singapore 537 cooking courses 36, 59, St Andrew’s Cathedral cycling, see also mountain drinks 584 159, 177, 215-16, 273-6, 483 biking driving, see car travel 389, 513 St Michael’s & All Angels Melaka City 216 drugs 471, 595 desserts 395, 582 Church 339 Malaysia 601-2 Durian Perangin 188 language 612-13 St Paul’s Church 212 durians 583 street 6 St Peter’s Church 215 tours 60 Wesley Church 111 D dance 59-60, 88, 533, E Forestry Research Institute cinema 577-8 of Malaysia (FRIM) 100 575-6 East Coast Park 489 civets 268 forts dangers 596-7, 603 East India Company 553-4 Clan Jetties 156 Fort Canning Park 481 Danum Valley Conservation Eastern & Oriental Hotel clanhouses 151-3, 158 Area 9, 354-6, 8 163, 166 156 Clarke Quay 477 Dark Cave 99 economy 550, 559-60 Fort Siloso 498-9 classes, see courses & Dayak people 564-5 ecotourism 422 classes Dayang, Pulau 239 accommodation 300, Fraser’s Hill (Bukit Fraser) climate 18, 22-3, see Deepavali 23, 35 335, 351, 356, 436 102-4, 103 also individual regions deer 271 food 314 FRIM (Forestry Research Brunei 454 Deer Park 55 sights 343-4 Institute of Malaysia) Malaysia 594 100 Deerland 271 tour operators 295, 311 Singapore 473 fruit 583 Dempsey Hill 493 electricity 538, 593, 594 Clock Tower 202 dengue fever 606-7 elephants 239, 270-1, 505 coffee (kopi) 583 desserts 395, 582 embassies G coffee shops (kopi tiams) Galeri Pengangkutan 39, 581 diarrhoea, traveller’s 607 Malaysia 594 Din Tai Fung 520 Singapore 538 Air 253 Colonial District 476-83, Galeri Petronas 47 515-16, 519-20, 527-8, disabilities, travellers with emergencies 19, 471, 613 Galeri Sultan Abdul Halim 533-4, 478-9 Malaysia 598 Emergency, the 555, 557 202 Commonwealth Allied War Singapore 541 endangered species 344, Galeria Perdana 190 Cemetery 142 diving 6, 28, 508, see 415, 586, 589 galleries, see also 570-1 also snorkelling Endau 252 museums consulates Bandar Labuan 375 Endau-Rompin National Bank Negara Malaysia Park 239-41, Malaysia 594 costs 34 240 Museum & Art Singapore 538 health 608 environmental issues 270, Gallery 57 585-90 contemporary art 21, 578 Layang Layang 336-7 Cathay Gallery 489 costs 18, 471, 538, 592, 594 Mabul 361-2 Galeri Petronas 47 624 galleries continued travel to/from 175-6 health 606-10 hostels 592 Gillman Barracks 498 travel within 176 diving 608 hot springs, see also spas KL City Gallery 52 walking tours 161, 161 environmental hazards Air Hangat 188-9 Melaka City 214 George Town World 608-9 Sabah 331 National Visual Art Heritage Inc. infectious diseases Tawau Hills Park 367 Gallery 58 Headquarters 156 606-7 hotels 592-3

INDEX State Art Gallery 202 Geylang 489 language 613 House of Yeap Chor Ee 156 gardens, see also parks & Geylang Serai Wet Market malaria 607 Hui, Dr Ho Eng 222 491 reserves traditional medicine 610 Hulu Klang 100

G-J giardiasis 607 Botanical Gardens 158 vaccinations 606 Hungry Ghost Festival 23 Lake Gardens Park (Tun gibbons, white-handed 205 heat stroke 608 Hutan Rekreasi Air Keroh  Abdul Razak Heritage Gillman Barracks 498 helicopter flights 191 225 Park) 54-5 golf Heritage District 229 Lake Gardens Alor Gajah 225-6 Hidden Valley (Lost World) (Seremban) 109 Gopeng 125 412-13 I National Orchid Garden Iban (Sea Dayak) people 301 hiking, see trekking, 489 564 Santubong Peninsula walking Singapore Botanic Ibrahim, Anwar 558, 559 406 hill stations Gardens 488-9 Images of Singapore 500 Singapore 512 Bukit Larut 146 Taman Botani 104 Imbi Market 66 Tioman 247 Cameron Highlands 13, Tun Abdul Razak immigration 600 Gomantong Caves 348, 126-33, 128, 13 Heritage Park (Lake Indian people 563 Gardens Park) 54-5 350 Fraser’s Hill (Bukit Fraser) 102-4, indigenous peoples Gardens by the Bay 477-81 Gombak 100-1 103 Genting Highlands 101 Bidayuh 564 gay travellers 538-9, 595 Gopeng 125-6 Hinduism 571 Iban (Sea Dayak) 564 Brunei 471 Gua Charas 258 history 551-61 Minangkabau 109 Kuala Lumpur 87 Gua Ikan (Fish Cave) 282 Asian financial crisis Orang Asli 240, 252, 261, Melaka City 223 Gua Kelam 205 559-60 269, 563-4 Singapore 532 Gua Wang Burma 205 Badawi, Abdullah 560 Penan 447 Gaya, Pulau 320 guesthouses 592 Borneo 554-6 insurance Genting 250 Gunung Bengoh 412-13 British rule 555-6 car 603 Genting Highlands 101 Gunung Gading National Park 413-14 Dutch rule 553 health 539 Genting Skyway 101 Gunung Kinabalu, see Kina- East India Company travel 595 George Town 10, 151-76, balu National Park 553-4 internet access 595, 152-3, 10, 21 Gunung Ledong National Emergency, the 555, 557 see also individual accommodation 162-7 Park 235 Ibrahim, Anwar 558, 559 locations Chinatown 151-5, 163, Gunung Mulu National Park Mahathir, Mohamad 558 internet resources 19, 548, 165, 167-8 see also individual 438-44, 32, 503 Malay independence 557 courses 159 locations Gunung Raya 189 Malaya, Federation of drinking 171-2 food & drink 575 Gunung Stong State Park 556-7 entertainment 171-2 health 606, 607 282 Melaka empire 552-3 festivals & events 160, Ipoh 118-25, 553-4 120-1 162 Iskandar Development Portuguese rule 553 food 167-71 H Region 229 WWII 556 internet access 174 Hainan Temple 155 Islam 552, 568, 569-70 hitching 603 internet resources 174-5 Hainanese chicken-rice Islamic Arts Museum 53 38, holidays Little India 155-7, 166, 81 Islamic Museum 209 handicrafts, 21, 577, see Brunei 471 168-9 Istana Abu Bakar 252 also individual crafts Malaysia 596 medical services 174 Istana Lama 112 hantu jarang gigi (snaggle- Singapore 540-1 money 174 Istana Permai 252 toothed ghost) 241 Holland Village 493 postal services 174 itineraries 24-7, 24-7 Haw Par Villa 497 home stays 592 shopping 172-4 Kuala Lumpur 53 hawker stalls George Town 166 sights 151-9 Singapore 481 George Town 170, 37 tourist information 174-5 282 Johor Bahru 232 Kota Bharu 277 tours 159-60, 161, 161 316 travel agencies 174 Penang 181 J Kuala Lumpur 66, 71, Semporna Archipelago Jaan 519 72, 83 359 jackfruit 583 Melaka City 220 Sungai Kinabatangan Jalan Alor 71 Map Pages 000 Singapore 522 352 Jalan Labi 467 Photo Pages 000 Tawau 365 Temerloh 271 Jalan Petaling 51 625 Jek Yap 129 highlights 274-5 travel to/from 318-19 Kuan Yin Teng 154 Jerantut 265-7, 266 travel seasons 272 travel within 319-20 Kuantan 254-7, 255 Jerejak, Pulau 180 Kemasik 301 Kota Kuala Kedah 204 Kubah National Park Johor 41, 227-41, 228 Kenong Rimba State Park Kota Mahsuri 189-90 409-11 accommodation 227 268-9 Kranji War Memorial 495 Kuching 11, 382-400, activities 227 kerabu beromak 38 Kris Cave 282 384-5, 401, 11 climate 227 151-3 Kuah 185, 192-3, 196 accommodation 390-2 INDEX highlights 228 Kinabalu National Park Kuala Belait 468 activities 389 13, 322-30, , , travel seasons 227 323 329 Kuala Gandah Elephant climate 379

Conservation Centre courses 389  J-L 511 ,13 Johor Bahru 228-34, 230 accommodation 328-30 270-1

 drinking 394-5 Johor National Parks climbing trails 325-7 Kuala Kangsar 140-2, 141 Corporation 239 emergencies 397 food 330 Kuala Kedah 204 Jonker’s Walk Night Market entertainment 395-6 Kuala Kubu Bharu 101 15, 222, 223, 15 permits 323-4 festivals & events 390 Kuala Lipis 267-8 Juara 249-50 planning 323-5 food 392-4 Kuala Lumpur 40, 46-96, Jurong Bird Park 498 travel to/from 330 internet access 397 48-9, 56-7, 63 via ferrata 327 medical services 397 accommodation 46, walking 327-8 money 397 60-6 K Kinabatangan Orang-utan postal services 397 Kadazan-Dusun people 565 activities 58 Conservation Project shopping 396 kain songket (fabric with (KOCP) 349 Bangsar Baru 65-6, 83-4, sights 382-9 gold thread) 577 Kinabatangan River 348-53 86, 89-90, 84 tourist information 397-8 Kampong Glam 487-8, Kinta Heritage 129 Brickfields 53-5, 65-6, 83, 89-90, 54 tours 389-90 524-5, 529, 535, 486 Kinta Valley Heritage children, travel with 61 Kampung Ayer 9, 456, 8 Loop 126 travel to/from 398-9 Chinatown 16, 51-3, Kampung Baru 55-7, 56-7 kite festival 277 travel within 399-400 61-2, 72, 86, 89, 50-1, Kampung Baru Mosque 57 kites 577 Kuching Wetlands National 16, 80 Park 406-7 Kampung Baru Night KL Bird Park 53 climate 46 Market 83 Kudat 335-6 KL City Gallery 52 courses 59-60 Kampung Benuk 408 KL Festival 60 drinking 84-6 Kampung Chitty 215 KL Train Station 55 entertainment 86-8 L kampung houses 575 Labrador Nature Reserve Klang 106-7 festivals & events 60 Kampung Kling Mosque 497 Klang Valley 105-7 food 46, 66-7, 70-2, 83-4 214 Labrador Secret Tunnels KLIA (Kuala Lumpur Golden Triangle 47, 51, Kampung Paya 250 497 International Airport) 62-4, 66-7, 70-1, 85-6, Labuk Bay Proboscis Kampung Pulau Betong 19, 91, 600 88-9, 68-9 181-2 Monkey Sanctuary kongsi (Chinese highlights 48-9 Kangar 204-5 345-6 clanhouses) 151-3, 158 history 47 Kapalai 363 kopi (coffee) 583 Lagenda Langkawi Dalam internet access 90 Taman 185 Kapas, Pulau 293-4 kopi tiams (coffee shops) internet recources 91 39, 581 Lahad Datu 353-4 422-5, 424 itineraries 53 Kota Belud 333-4 Lake Gardens Park (Tun Katong 489-91 Little India 55, 57, 64, 72 Abdul Razak Heritage Kota Bharu 14, 273-81, kayaking 34 medical services 91 Park) 54-5 276, 281, 14 Cherating 257 money 91 Lake Titiwangsa 58, 59 Kota Kinabalu 306-20, Pulau Tioman 249 postal services 91 laksa 394, , 308 77 80 Kedah 41, 183-206, 184 accommodation 312-14 shopping 88-90 Lambir Hills National Park accommodation 183 431-2 activities 306-11 sights 47, 51-8 climate 183 Titiwangsa 58, Lang Tengah, Pulau 291-2 drinking 316-17 59 food 183 tourist information 91 Langkawi 10, 41, 185-200, emergencies 317 highlights 184 tours 60 184, 186-7, 11 entertainment 316-17 travel seasons 183 travel seasons 46 accommodation 183, food 314-16 192-6 kek lapis (striped layer travel to/from 91-3 cakes) 395 internet access 317 activities 185-90, 190-2 travel within 93-6, 95 medical services 317 climate 183 Temple 157-8 Kuala Lumpur International money 317-18 Kelabit Highlands 12, Airport (KLIA) 19, drinking 198-9 444-51 postal services 318 91, 600 festivals & events 192 Kelantan 273-82, 274-5 shopping 317 Kuala Pilah 112-13 food 183, 196-8 accommodation 272 sights 306-11 Kuala 107-9 highlights 184 climate 272 tourist information 313 Kuala internet access 199 food 272 tours 311-12 295-9, 296 internet resources 199 626 Langkawi continued Sarawak Cultural Village Manukan, Pulau 320 medicine, traditional & medical services 199 404, 15 maps 595 folk 610 money 199 Lundu 413 Marang 300-1 Melaka 41, 207-26, 208 shopping 199 Mariamnan accommodation 207 252 climate 207 sights 185-90 M Marina Bay 476-83, 520, tourist information 199 Mabul 361-2 food 207

INDEX INDEX 533-4 tours 190-2 macaques 205, 245, 402, highlights 208 Maritime Experiential travel seasons 183 461, travel seasons 207 504 Museum 498 travel to/from 199-200 MacRitchie Reservoir 495 Melaka City 209-25, 210-11

L-M Maritime Museum & Naval travel within 200 accommodation 217-20 Mahathir, Marina 567 Museum 213

Langkawi Bird Paradise 185 activities 215-16  Mahathir, Mohamad 558 markets 6-7, 14 Langkawi Crocodile Farm Chinatown 213-14, Mahathir’s Birthplace Bazaar Baru Chow Kit 188 200-1 217-19, 220-1 67, 73 Lankayan, Pulau 347-8 drinking 222 Malabar Muslim Jama-Ath Central Market (Kota language 18, 59, 566, Mosque 487-8 emergencies 223 Bharu) 279, 75, 78-9 611-15 malaria 607 entertainment 222-3 Central Market (Kota Layang Layang 336-7 Malay people 562-3 Kinabalu) 306 festivals & events 216 leeches 262, 608 Malaya, Federation of Central Market (Kuala food 220-2 legal matters 556-7 Lumpur) 89 internet access 224 Brunei 471 Malayan Railway Adminis- Imbi Market 66 medical services 224 tration Building 55 Malaysia 595 Jalan Petaling 51 money 224 Malaysia 46-453 Singapore 539 Jonker’s Walk Night postal services 224 Legoland 231 accommodation 592-3 Market 15, 222, 223, 15 shopping 223 Lei Shen Gong Buddhist business hours 593 Kampung Baru Night sights 209, 212-15 Temple 252 camping 592 Market 83 tourist information lesbian travellers climate 594 Kuala Lumpur 67 223-4 538-9, 595 consulate 594 Little Penang Street tours 216 Brunei 471 customs regulations 594 Market 173 travel to/from 224 Kuala Lumpur 87 disabilities, travellers Pulau Langkawi night travel within 224-5 Melaka City 223 with 598 market 197 Melaka Zoo 225 Singapore 532 embassies 594 Sibu Central Market 419 Menara Alor Star 201-2 Limbang 451-3 food 579-85 Masjid Jamek 51 Menara Taming Sari 216 literature 574, see history 556-7, 560 Masjid Kampung Hulu 214 Merang 299-300 also books holidays 596 Masjid Kapitan Keling 157 Merdeka Square 52 Little India (George Town) home stays 592 Masjid Negara 55 Mersing 234-7, 236 155-7, 166, 168-9 Masjid Negeri 254 legal matters 595 Mesilau Nature Resort Little India (Kuala Lumpur) maps 595 Masjid Zahir 202 55, 57, 64, 72 330-1 money 595-6 Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) Little India (Melaka City) metalwork 577 politics 548-9, 566-7 546 215 Minangkabau people 109 population 548 massage Little India (Singapore) Miri 432-8, 434 Batu Ferringhi 177 485-7, 517-18, 525, 529, postal services 596 mobile phones 19 Kuala Lumpur 58 535, 486 tourist information 597-8 Malaysia 597 Melaka City 216 Little Penang Street tours 604 Singapore 540 Ranau 331 Market 173 travel to/from 600-1 money 18, 19 Singapore 512 lizards, monitor 248, 257, travel within 601-5 Brunei 465, 471 320, 321 Mataking 363 visas 598 Malaysia 595-6 Loke Mansion 57 Matang Mangrove Forest volunteering 598 Singapore 539-40 longhouses 15, 565, 593 Reserve 146-7 women travellers 599 moneychangers 596 Annah Rais Longhouse Matang Wildlife Centre work 599 monkeys 257, 268, 345-6, 408-9 410-11 Maliau Basin Conservation see also individual Maxwell Rd Hawker Centre Batang Rejang 421, Area 367-9 species 423, 425 521 Malihom 182 Bawang Assan Long- McMurtrie, Narelle 194 malls Abu Bakar Mosque 252 house Village 417-18 measures George Town 173-4 Acheen St Mosque 155 Pulau Kapas 294 Malaysia 593 Johor Bahru 232-3 Kampung Baru Mosque Singapore 540 Kuala Lumpur 88-90 57 media 578 Melaka City 223 Kampung Kling Mosque Map Pages 000 medical services 606, 214 Singapore 533-4, 535-7 see also individual Photo Pages 000 Mantanani, Pulau 336 locations 627 Malabar Muslim Jama- Galeria Perdana 190 National Museum of Istana Alam Shah 106 Ath Mosque 487-8 House of Yeap Chor Singapore 476-7 Istana Iskandanah 140 Masjid Jamek 51 Ee 156 National Orchid Garden Istana Lama 112 Masjid Kampung Hulu Images of Singapore 500 489 295 214 Islamic Arts Museum 53 national parks, see parks & Istana Nurul Iman 459 reserves Masjid Kapitan Keling 157 Islamic Museum 209 Istana Permai 252

National Planetarium 55 INDEX Masjid Negara 55 Laman Padi 186-7 palm oil 586-7 Masjid Negeri 254 Mahathir’s Birthplace National Textiles Museum 52-3 Pangkor, Pulau 134-40, Masjid Zahir 202 200-1 135, 137 National Visual Art Sultan Abdullah Mosque Maritime Experiential Pantai Tengah 190-1, 190 M- 252 Museum 498 Gallery 58 parks & reserves 31, see P  , 40 Sultan Abu Bakar Maritime Museum also gardens Mosque 229 & Naval Museum 213 97-115, 98 accommodation 97 Bako National Park Sultan Mosque 487 Museum Sultan Abu 400-4 Bakar 253 climate 97 motorcycle travel 602-3 Batang Ai National Park food 97 mountain biking 311, 494, Muzium Diraja 202 416-17 highlights 98 544, see also cycling Muzium Kota Kayang Bukit Gemok Forest mountain climbing 204-5 history 99 Reserve 364 costs 28, 31 Muzium Negeri (Alor travel seasons 97 Bukit Nanas Forest Gunung Mulu Summit Setar) 200 newspapers Reserve 47 442 Muzium Negeri Perlis Malaysia 593 Bukit Timah Nature 205 Mt Kinabalu 13, 322-30, Singapore 540 Reserve 494 Muzium Negeri 323, 329, 13, 511 Niah National Park 429-31 Cape Rachado Forest (Seremban) 109-10 planning 31-3 Night Market (Kota Bharu) Reserve 113, 114 Muzium 142 Pulau Berhala 349 278 Danum Valley Conserva- Muzium Rakyat 209 Mr Raja 119 Night Safari 17, 494 tion Area 9, 354-6, 8 National Museum 53-4 MRT (Mass Rapid Transit) Nipah 251 East Coast Park 489 National Museum of 546 noodles 580, Endau-Rompin National Singapore 476-7 76 Mt Kinabalu, see Kinabalu Park 239-41, 240 National Park National Textiles Forestry Research Museum 52-3 Muar 234 O Institute of Malaysia NUS Museums 497 Mukut 251 opening hours (FRIM) 100 Orang Asli Museum museums 21, see also Malaysia 593 Fort Canning Park 481 100-1 galleries Singapore 537 Gunung Gading National P Ramlee House 158-9 Architecture Museum opera, Chinese 576 Park 413-14 209 204 Orang Asli people 240, 252, Gunung Legan National Asian Civilisations Penang Museum 155-6 261, 269, 563-4 Park 235 Museum 477 Peranakan Museum 477 Orang Asli Museum 100-1 Gunung Mulu National Baba House 483 57 orang-utans 10, 333, Park 438-44, 32, 503 Baba-Nonya Heritage Pinang Peranakan 343-4, 345, 349, 407-8, Gunung Stong State Museum 214 Mansion 155 10, 504 Park 282 Bank Negara Malaysia Royal Abu Bakar Orchard Road 488-9, 518, Kenong Rimba State Museum & Art Museum 229 526-7, 529-30, 535-6, Park 268-9 Gallery 57 Sultanate Palace 212 490 Kinabalu National Park Brunei Museum 460 music 59-60, 549, 576-7 Oriental Village 187-8 13, 322-30, 323, 329, , Cat Museum 389 Muzium Diraja 202 13 511 Kubah National Park Changi Museum & Muzium Kota Kayang P 409-11 Chapel 491 204-5 P Ramlee House 158-9 Kuching Wetlands Cheng Ho Cultural Muzium Negeri (Alor Paddy Museum 204 National Park 406-7 Museum 214 Setar) 200 42, 242-71, Lambir Hills National Cheong Fatt Tze Muzium Negeri Perlis 205 243, 14 Park 431-2 Mansion 159 Muzium Negeri accommodation 242 MacRitchie Reservoir Chinese Heritage (Seremban) 109-10 climate 242 495 Museum 229 Muzium Rakyat 209 food 242 Matang Mangrove Forest 382 highlights 243 Reserve 146-7 Dr Sun Yat Sen’s Penang N travel seasons 242 Mesilau Nature Resort 330-1 Base 154 nasi lemak 39, 74, 122 palaces Galeri Pengangkutan National Front (Barisan Niah National Park Ampang Tinggi Palace 429-31 Air 253 Nasional) 548, 558, 560 109 Galeri Sultan Abdul National Monument 54 Penang National Park Istana Abu Bakar 252 179-80 Halim 202 National Museum 53-4 628 parks & reserves continued Peranakan Museum 477 Singapore 540 Pulau Tinggi 238 Royal Belum State Park Peranakan people 564 proboscis monkeys 345-6 Pulau Tioman 14, 243-51, 147-8 Perhentian, Pulau 9, Protestant Cemetery 156 244, 14 Similajau National Park 283-91, 284, 9 public holidays accommodation 246-51 427-9 Perhentian Museum 477 Brunei 471 diving & snorkelling Southern Ridges 495-6 Perlis 41, 204-6, 184 Malaysia 596 244-5 INDEX INDEX Tabin Wildlife Reserve accommodation 183 Singapore 540-1 drinking 246-51 356-7 climate 183 Publika 90 food 246-51 Talang-Satang National walking 245-6 Park 415-17 food 183 Pudu Market 67 P- Pulau Ubin 494  Taman Negara 12, 260-5, highlights 184 Pulau Aur 239 R puppetry, shadow 575, 577 261, 12 travel seasons 183 Pulau Banggi 336 Putrajaya 104-5 Taman Negara Perlis permits Pulau Besar (Johor) 237-8 205-6 Kenong Rimba State Pulau Besar (Melaka) Taman Wetland 104 Park 269 225-6 Q Tanjung Datu National Kinabalu National Park Pulau Carey 107 Quays, the 477, 515-16, 520, Park 415 323-4 Pulau Dayang 239 528, 533-4, 478-9 Tawau Hills Park 367 Taman Negara 260 Pulau Gaya 320 Tunku Abdul Rahman Upper Rejang 422 Pulau Jerejak 180 National Park 320-2 Petaling Jaya 105-6 Pulau Kapas 293-4 R rabies 596, 607 Wind Cave Nature Petronas Towers 55, 57, 81 Pulau Lang Tengah 291-2 radio Reserve 411-12 Petrosains 57 Pulau Langkawi 10, 41, Malaysia 593 Pasir Ris 491-3 pewtersmithing 59 185-200, 184, 186-7, 11 Singapore 540 passports 600 photography 596 accommodation 183, Raffles, Stamford 554 Pavilion KL 88 Pinang, Pulau, see Penang 192-6 rafflesias 413-14, Pekan 252-4, 253 Pinang Peranakan activities 185-90, 190-2 510 Pelabuhan Klang 106-7 Mansion 155 climate 183 rafting 34, 32 Pemanggil, Pulau 239 Ping Anchorage 295 drinking 198-9 Rainforest World Music Festival 23 Penan people 447 planning, see also festivals & events 192 Raja, Mr 119 Penan villages 452 individual regions food 183, 196-8 Ramadan 36, 457 Penang 41, 149-82, 150, budget 18, 471, 538, highlights 184 see also George Town 592, 594 internet access 199 Raptor Watch Festival 114 accommodation 149 calendar of events 22-3 internet resources 199 Raub 269-70 architecture 156 caving 33 medical services 199 Rawa, Pulau 238-9 climate 149 children, travel with 61, money 199 Razak, Najib 560 593-4, 609-10 Redang, Pulau 292-3 food 149, 76, 77 shopping 199 diving 33-4 refunds 596 highlights 150 sights 185-90 food & dining 35-9 Regatta Lepa 360 history 150-1 tourist information 199 internet resources 19 religion 549, 552, 569-73 travel seasons 149 tours 190-2 itineraries 24-7, 53, 481, reptiles, see individual Penang Butterfly Farm 180 travel seasons 183 24-7 species Penang Hill 157 travel to/from 199-200 Malaysia, Singapore & reserves, see parks & Penang Museum 155-6 Brunei basics 18-19 travel within 200 reserves, wildlife Penang National Park Malaysia, Singapore & Pulau Lankayan 347-8 sanctuaries & reserves 179-80 Brunei’s regions 40-3 Pulau Mantanani 336 resthouses 593 Penarik 300 mountain climbing 31-3 Pulau Manukan 320 rhinoceros, Sumatran 239, Penarik Firefly rock climbing 31-3 Pulau Pangkor 134-40, 506-7 Sanctuary 300 snorkelling 33-4 135, 137 rice 580 Peradayan Forest Reserve surfing 34 Pulau Pemanggil 239 river cruises, see boat trips 470 travel seasons 18, 22-3 Pulau Perhentian 9, 283-91, River Safari 495 Perak 40, 116-48, 117 trekking 29-30 284, 9 Robertson Quay 477 accommodation 116 politics 548-9, 550, 562-8, Pulau Rawa 238-9 rock climbing 31-3, 349 climate 116 Pulau Redang 292-3 566-7 roti canai 38, 37 food 116 Pom Pom 363 Pulau Sapi 320 Royal Abu Bakar Museum highlights 117 population 548, 549-50 Pulau Satang 416 229 history 118 Port Dickson 113-15 Pulau Selirong 470 Royal Belum State Park travel seasons 116 Porta de Santiago 209, 212 Pulau Sibu 238 147-8 postal services, see also Pulau Sipadan 6, Royal Pahang Polo Club individual locations 359-61, 3, 7 252 Map Pages 000 Brunei 465 Pulau Sulug 321 rubber trees 140 Photo Pages 000 Malaysia 596 Pulau Talang-Talang 416 629 S shadow puppetry 575, 577 Katong 489-91 Pulau Redang 292-3 Sabah 42, 304-78, 305 Shah Alam 106 language 615 Pulau Tioman 244-5 accommodation 304 shopping 21, see legal matters 539 Semporna Archipelago climate 304 also malls, markets Little India 485-7, 517-18, 359-61 food 304 arts & crafts 89, 90, 525, 529, 535, 486 Sipadan 359-61 172-3 highlights 305 Marina Bay 476-83, 520, Songs of the Sea 498-9

batik 59, 89, 172, 250 533-4 INDEX history 554-5 spas, see also hot springs electronics 89 medical services 539 travel seasons 304 Kuala Lumpur 58, 60 fine art 90 money 539-40 safety 596-7, 603 Melaka City 216 language 613 Mass Rapid Transit Pulau Langkawi 187,  S  sailing 34 shrines 189-90 (MRT) 546 188-9 Salang 248-9 siat 38 Orchard Road 488-9, Singapore 512 salt licks 448 Sibu, Pulau 238 518, 526-7, 529-30, spelunking, see caving sambal 580 535-6, 490 Sibu 417-21, 418 squirrels 245, 328 337-43, 338 politics 567-8 Sibu Central Market 419 Sri Mahamariamman Sandakan Archipelago postal services 540 Temple 51 347-8 silat (Malaysian martial art) 576 Pulau Ubin 494 Sri Mariamman Temple Santubong Peninsula Quays, the 477, 515-16, (George Town) 156-7 404-6 Similajau National Park 427-9 520, 528, 533-4, Sri Mariamman Temple Sapi, Pulau 320 Singamata 361 478-9 (Singapore) 484, 2-3 Sapulot 371-2 Sentosa Island 498-500, Singapore 43, 473-546, Sri Menanti 112 Sarawak 42, 379-453, 518-19, 527, 530-1, 474-5, 492 495 Sri Poyatha Venayagar 380-1 shopping 533-7 accommodation 473, Moorthi Temple 214 accommodation 379 515-19, 537, 538 sights 476-500 Sri Raja Mariamman climate 379 activities 500, 512-13 teahouses 530 Devasthanam 229 food 379 addresses 476 telephone services 540 Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple 485 highlights 380-1 budget 538 Tiong Bahru 488 St Paul’s Church 212 history 382, 554-5 business hours 537 tipping 540 St Peter’s Church 215 travel seasons 379 CBD 483-5, 520-2, tourist information 541 Sarawak Cultural Village 528-9, 482-3 tours 513-14 209 404-5, 15 Chinatown 483-5, 516-17, travel seasons 473 State Art Gallery 202 Satang, Pulau 416 520-2, 528-9, 534-5, travel to/from 541-4 state parks, see parks & sculpture 485 482-3 travel within 544-6 reserves Sea Dayak (Iban) people climate 473 visas 541 Stepping Stone Cave 282 564 Suffolk House 159 Colonial District 476-83, walking tours 501, 501 Sekayu Falls 302 515-16, 519-20, 527-8, Sultan Abdul Samad Singapore Botanic Gardens Building 52 Selangor 40, 97-115, 98 533-4, 478-9 488-9 Sultan Abdullah Mosque accommodation 97 consulates 538 Singapore Hotel 252 climate 97 courses 513 Association 515 Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque food 97 culture 549-50 Singapore Science Centre 229 highlights 98 customs regulations 537 497 Sultan Mosque 487 history 99 disabilities, travellers Singapore Tourist Pass 546 Sultanate Palace 212 travel seasons 97 with 541 Singapore Zoo 17, 493, 17 Sulug, Pulau 321 Selirong, Pulau 470 drinking 527-31 Singlish 615 Sumatran rhinoceros 239, Sematan 414-15 electricity 538 Sipadan, Pulau 6, 359- 506-7 Semenggoh Nature embassies 538 61, 3, 7 Sungai Kinabatangan Reserve 407-8 emergencies 538 Sleeping Buddha Cave 258 348-53 Semporna 357-9, entertainment 531-3 358 181 sup torpedo 38 Semporna Archipelago festivals & events 514-15 snakes 609, 12 surfing 34 359-63 food 473, 488, 519-27, snorkelling 9, 28, see Cherating 257 Sentosa Island 498-500, 538 also diving Juara 249 518-19, 527, 530-1, 499 Geylang 489 Layang Layang 336-7 Teluk Chempedak 257 Sepilok 343-7, 344 highlights 474-5 planning 33-4 sustainable travel Sepilok Orang-Utan history 476 Pulau Kapas 293-4 Rehabilitation Centre holidays 540-1 accommodation 300, Pulau Langkawi 190-1 335, 351, 356, 436 (SORC) 10, 343-4, internet access 538-9 Pulau Mantanani 336 food 314 10, 504 internet resources 537 Pulau Manukan 320 sights 343-4 Seremban 109-112, 110 itineraries 481 Pulau Pangkor 136 tour operators 295, 311 Seria 467-8 Kampong Glam 487-8, Pulau Perhentian 9, swans 419 Seribuat Archipelago 237-9 524-5, 529, 535, 486 283-5 630 sweets 395, 582 Temburong District 468-72 Underwater World Gunung Bengoh 412-13 swimming holes Temerloh 270, 271 (Sentosa Island) 498 Gunung Mulu Endau-Rompin National temples Universal Studios 498 Summit 442 Park 240 Buddha Tooth Relic Thian Hock Keng Temple Gunung Santubong 405 Pulau Tioman 246 Temple 484 484-5 Hidden Valley (Lost Taman Negara 262 Cheng Hoon Teng tigers 239, 17, 505 World) 412-13

INDEX INDEX Sze Ya Temple 52, 16 Temple 214 time 541, 597 Kelabit Highlands 12, Hainan Temple 155 Tinggi, Pulau 238 448-51 Kek Lok Si Temple 157-8 Tioman, Pulau 14, 243-51, Kinabalu National Park T 325-7, 327-8 S Kuan Yin Teng 154 244, 14 

-W Tabin Wildlife Reserve 356-7 Lei Shen Gong Buddhist accommodation 246-51 Maliau Basin Conserva- tion Area 367-8  Taiping 142-6, 143, 144 Temple 252 diving & snorkelling Talang-Satang National Liesheng Temple 110-11 244-5 Penan villages 452 Park 415-17 Mariamnan Hindu drinking 246-51 planning 29-30 Talang-Talang, Pulau 416 Temple 252 food 246-51 Pulau Perhentian 285 Taman Alam Kuala Sam Poh Temple 127 walking 245-6 Sungai Kinabatangan Selangor Nature Park Sri Mahamariamman 350 108 Tiong Bahru 488 Temple 51 Taman Negara 261-2 Taman Mini Malaysia/ Titiwangsa 58, 59 Sri Mariamman Temple Tasik Chini 252, 588 Asean 225 toilets 541, 597 (George Town) 156-7 Tringgus Bong 412-13 Taman Negara 12, 260-5, tourist information, Sri Mariamman Temple Tringgus 412-13 261, 12 see also individual (Singapore) 484, 2-3 trishaws 225, 546 Taman Negara Perlis 205-6 destinations Sri Poyatha Venayagar Malaysia 597-8 Tuaran 333 Tanah Rata 129-33, 131 Moorthi Temple 214 Singapore 541 Tumpat temple district Tanjung Bidara 226 Sri Raja Mariamman tours 604 281-2 Tanjung Datu National Devasthanam 229 adventure 60 Tun Abdul Razak Heritage Park 415 Sri Tehndayuthapany Park (Lake Gardens Tanjung Tuan Forest Swamy 129 Cameron Highlands 129 Park) 54-5 Reserve 113 Sri Veeramakaliamman fishing 257 Tunku Abdul Rahman 570-1 Temple 485 food 60 National Park 320-2 tapir 269 Sze Ya Temple 52, 16 George Town 159-60 turtles 257-8, 347, 359, Tarawe, John 446 Tatt Khalsa Diwan Kuala Lumpur 60 3, 509 Tasik Chini 252, 588 Gurdwara 57 Singapore 513-14 Tutong 467 Tasik Kenyir 301-3 58 walking 144, 161, 144, Tutong District 467-8 Tatt Khalsa Diwan Thian Hock Keng Temple 161 TV Gurdwara 57 484-5 train travel Malaysia 593 Tawau 363-7, 364 Tumpat temple district Malaysia 604-5 Singapore 540 281-2 Tawau Hills Park 367 Singapore 542-3 typhoid 607 taxes 596 Wat Siam Nikrodharam travel to/from Brunei 202 taxis, long-distance 604 465-6 Temurun Waterfall 188 tea drinking 583 travel to/from Malaysia U Teochew Temple 158 Ubin, Pulau 494 tea plantations 600-1 Terengganu 294-303, Ulu Temburong National Boh Sungei Palas Tea travel to/from Singapore 274-5 541-4 Park 470-2 Estate 127, 13 accommodation 272 travel with children 61, Underwater World (Pulau Cameron Bharat Tea 593-4, 609-10 Langkawi) 185-6 Plantation 127 climate 272 food 272 travel within Malaysia Underwater World (Sentosa teahouses 530 Island) 498 highlights 274-5 601-5 Tekek 246-7 Unesco World Heritage Site travel seasons 272 travel within Singapore Telaga Tujuh 193 544-6 (Penang) 156 Terrapuri Heritage Village telephone services 19 United National 300 travellers cheques 596 Organisation (UMNO) Malaysia 597 TreeTops Lodge 436 Thaipusam 22, 99, 571, 17 556-7 Singapore 540 trekking 12, 28, see Thean Hou Temple 58 Universal Studios 498 Teluk Bahang 179-80 also walking theatre 575-6 Urban Village 55 Teluk Chempedak 257 Cameron Highlands 130 theme parks Teluk Kumbar 182 Cape Rachado A’Famosa Resort 225-6 Teluk Nipah 136-7, 137 Forest Reserve 113 Genting Highlands 101 V Danum Valley Conserva- vacations Taman Mini Malaysia/ tion Area 9, 355 Asean 225 Brunei 471 Map Pages 000 Endau-Rompin National Malaysia 596 Underwater World (Pulau Park 239-41, 240 Photo Pages 000 Langkawi) 185-6 Singpore 540-1 631 vaccinations 606 Durian Perangin 188 Butterfly Park 55 women’s health 610 vegetarian & vegan Endau-Rompin National Cherating Turtle women’s rights 567 travellers 39 Park 240 Sanctuary 258 woodcarving 577 Villa Sentosa 215 Maliau Basin Conserva- Deer Park 55 work 599 visas 19, see also tion Area 367-8 KL Bird Park 53 WWII 556 passports Sekayu Falls 302 Kuala Gandah Elephant WWII Kranji War

Brunei 471 Tasik Chini 252, 588 Conservation Centre Memorial 495 INDEX Malaysia 598 Temurun Waterfall 188 270-1 Singapore 541 wayang kulit (shadow- Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary Y volunteering 411, 416, 598 puppet performances)  W-Z 575 345-6 yachting 34

 weather 18, 22-3, 594, see Matang Wildlife Centre Yap Kongsi 158 W also individual regions 410-11 yoga walking, see also trekking Brunei 454 Penarik Firefly George Town 159 Bako National Park 402 Malaysia 594 Sanctuary 300 Kuala Lumpur 58 Kinabalu National Park Singapore 473 Sepilok Orang-Utan Singapore 513 Rehabilitation Centre 327-8 weaving 577 Pulau Perhentian 285 (SORC) 10, 343-4, Weber, Birgit 287 , Pulau Tioman 245-6 10 504 Z websites, see internet Tabin Wildlife Reserve Southern Ridges 495-6 Zoo Negara (National resources 356-7 Zoo) 100 Taman Negara 261-2 weights Taman Alam Kuala zoos, see also wildlife Teluk Chempedak 257 Malaysia 593 Selangor Nature sanctuaries & reserves walking tours Singapore 540 Park 108 Deerland 271 George Town 161, 161 Western Sarawak 400-17 wildlife watching 29, Melaka Zoo 225 Singapore 501 401-2, 407-8, see also white-water rafting 34, 32 Singapore Zoo 17, 493, 17 birdwatching Taiping 144, 144 wildlife, see individual spe- Zoo Negara (National Wind Cave Nature Reserve Wat Siam Nikrodharam cies, wildlife sanctuar- Zoo) 100 411-12 202 ies & reserves, zoos Zoo Taiping & Night women travellers water, drinking 607 wildlife sanctuaries & Safari 142 waterfalls reserves Brunei 471 Asah Waterfall 246 Borneo Sun Bear Malaysia 599 Chiling Waterfall 101 Conservation Centre Singapore 541 344-5 618

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Johnno J Sinead Joyce K Denis Kearney, Mohanan Kesavan, Ken Khor, Giel Klanker, AUTHOR THANKS Annerieke Kroon, Reto Krummenacher, Diana

Kuan, Suzanne Kuiper L Tim Laslavic, Cher Simon Richmond Chua Lassalvy, Jenny Leak, Si Poh Liang, Terima kasih to the great team of coauthors Maud Loonen M Bevis Man, Emily Mannes, and to Ilaria for support from LP HQ. In Ma- Jean-Paul Marchetti, Andrena McNabb, Ursa laysia, many thanks to Alex Yong, Nani Kahar, 619 Peter Kiernan, Andrew Sebastian, Claudia Yew, Tom, Joel, Silas and Howard (I’m greatly Low, David Hogan Jr, Narelle McMurtrie, Chris privileged to have met you, and to have had Bauer, Eddy Chew, Adly Rizal, Karl Steinberg, the opportunity to explore your island with Chris Ong. And to Neil for blissful company you); Angelica, the baddest-ass bartender and encouraging me to capture the Malaysia I in Oakland, thanks for the laughs; Alex Za- love through art as well as words. wadzki, Daniele Cohen, Serge, Johnny and the rest, your company was always hilarious; BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND Cristian Bonetto Mom and Dad, thanks for your constant sup- A heartfelt xièxie to Jasmine Chai, Ally Wong, port; and Rachel, for your love, and your voice Walter Cheng Eng Teck, Mark Chng, Wayne every morning and evening when I’m away. Soon and Ian Chong for their incredible generosity and insight. Many thanks also to Daniel Robinson Ilaria Walker, Alvin Jin Tan, Yu Ying Cheng and Scores of people went out of their way to Mary-Ann Gardner. make this a better book, but I’m especially indebted to Amélie Blanc; Borbala Nyiri; Celeste Brash Donald and Marina Tan; Eric and Annie Yap; Thanks to Shannon Bryant for staying with Jacqueline Fong; Jo-Lynn Liao; Kelvin Egay; me throughout and at the . To Peck Polycarp; Mathew Ngau Jau; Philip Yong; Choo Ho and Brandon Tan for beyond- Thomas Ulrich and Vernon Kedit (Kuching); wonderful help, support and friendship; Jessie, Noriza and Peter Tiong (Sibu); Paul Richard Abraham for Johor stuff; Maryanne Chuo; Sandra Kromdijk; Vincent Tiong and Netto for contacts and *sob* no chicken rice; Wouter Mullink (Kapit); Camille de Kerchove; Mani and Raymond; Dr Wan and the Endau- Captain David (Bennet); Elyn Chan and Rompin office. Ilaria and Simon, terima kasih family, and Mrs Lee (Miri); Amy McGoldrick; for being awesome. As always, huge thanks Antonella Mori; Helen van Lindere; Jeremy to my family for letting me be me. Clark; Peter Hogge and my guides Bian Ru- mai, Esther Abu, Jeffry Simun, Susan Pulut Joshua Samuel Brown and Syria Lejau (Gunung Mulu National Thanks to my old chum Astrid P for being a Park); Apoi Ngimat; Jaman Riboh; Joanna most excellent travel companion for part of Joy; Rebita Lupong; Rian John Pasan La- the research phase, Lauren Q for being half mulun; Stephen and Tine, and Stu Roach the team that steered us in circles around (Bario); Mr Lim (Chong Teah); Mr Chua (Eng Pulau Kapas, and motorcycle guide extraor- Hin) and Ferdinand Gibson (Limbang); the dinaire Ronnie V for not getting me killed in dedicated staff of Sarawak’s national parks; Pahang. As always, thanks to Phil and Tammy Glenn van Zutphen; Leonard Koh; Michelle at Pristine (), and special thanks to Elias Solomon and Seng Beng Yeo and their Marina at Kibbutz Bardo in Taipei for giving families (Singapore); and, finally, my beloved me a space to call home before and after the wife Rachel Safman, our son Yair Lev and my journey. mother-in-law Edie Safman (Los Angeles). Austin Bush Thanks to talented LPers Ilaria Walker and ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Bruce Evans, my ever-roving coauthors, and the kind folks on the ground in Malaysia in- Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, cluding Ahmad, Zac Chan, Robyn Eckhardt, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated Nazlina Hussin, Teong Ong Jin, Joann Khaw, World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Steve Khong, Mark Lay, Djohan Lee, Bee Yinn Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System and CK Low, Narelle McMurtrie, Chris Ong, Sciences, 11, 1633–44. Wanida Razali, Khoo Salma, Simon and Rachel Integrated Transit Network of Kuala Lumpur Tan, Stan and Pat Woolliscroft, and Jek Yap. Map © 2012 Tourism Malaysia Adam Karlin Cover photograph: Terima kasih: Katie King, rock-star contact View over the Bharat Tea Estate, Cameron who redefines break dancing; the people Highlands, Perak, Ross Barnett/Getty/Lonely who gave me insight, Charlie Ryan, Jessica Planet Images 620 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Joshua Samuel Brown, Adam Assisting Editors Jenna THIS BOOK Karlin and Daniel Robinson. Myers, Karyn Noble, Ross Tay- Tony and Maureen Wheeler The Health chapter was based lor, Gina Tsarouhas, Fionnuala first researched Malaysia in on research supplied by Dr Twomey, Jeanette Wall 1973 when writing the book Trish Batchelor. This guidebook Assisting Cartographers

BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND that started it all, Across Asia was commissioned in Lonely Mick Garrett, Jolyn Philcox, on the Cheap. Since then, Planet’s Melbourne office, and Samantha Tyson many Lonely Planet authors produced by the following: Assisting Layout Designers have followed in their sandalled Commissioning Editor Ilaria Yvonne Bischofberger, Nicholas footsteps to make sure travel- Walker Colicchia, Kerrianne Southway lers get the most out of this Coordinating Editor Mardi Cover Research Naomi wild region’s idyllic beaches, O’Connor Parker spicy fusion cuisine and Coordinating Cartographer Internal Image Research stunning colonial architecture. Alex Leung Aude Vauconsant This 12th edition of Malaysia, Coordinating Layout Language Content Branis- Singapore & Brunei was re- Designer Lauren Egan lava Vladisavljevic searched and written by some Barbara Thanks to Dan Austin, Sasha of Lonely Planet’s finest. Ma- Managing Editors Delissen, Bruce Evans Baskett, Laura Crawford, laysia guru and veteran coordi- Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Senior Editor Andi Jones nating author Simon Richmond Jane Hart, Jouve India, Asha researched Kuala Lumpur, Managing Cartographers Ioculari, Tobias Gattineau, Kate Selangor and Negeri Sembilan Adrian Persoglia, Anthony McDonell, Catherine Naghten, and led a star-studded team of Phelan, Diana von Holdt Trent Paton, Raphael Richards, travel writers: Cristian Bonetto, Managing Layout Designer Dianne Schallmeiner, Laura Celeste Brash, Austin Bush, Chris Girdler Stansfeld, Gerard Walker

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