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YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK ROADS and BRIDGES HAER No YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK ROADS AND BRIDGES HAER No. CA-117 Yosemite National Park Mariposa County California WRITTEN HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE DATA REDUCED COPIES OF MEASURED DRAWINGS HISTORIC AMERICAN ENGINEERING RECORD NATIONAL PARK SERVICE DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR P.O. BOX 37127 WASHINGTON, D.C. 20013-7127 \-\AER. CPz.L d,d.-"(d::£JV1 I HISTORIC AMERICAN ENGINEERING RECORD 5- ( YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK ROADS AND BRIDGES Yosemite National Park HAER No. CA-117 LOCATION: Yosemite National Park, Mariposa and Tuolumne counties, California DATES OF CONSTRUCTION: 1870s-1960s ORIGINAL OWNERS: Private turnpike companies, Yosemite Board of Commissioners. PRESENT OWNER: National Park Service, Yosemite National Park ORIGINAL USE: Private toll roads, park roads. PRESENT USE: Park road system. SIGNIFICANCE: A variety of themes are represented in the story of Yosemite's roads. The earliest routes were toll trails and roads constructed by private turnpike companies. Some roads in Yosemite Valley were constructed under the auspices of the Yosemite Board of Commissioners or the U.S. Cavalry. Some work, most notably the El Portal Road, was done by the National Park Service Engineering Division, but most of the park roads were reconstructed by the Bureau of Public Roads after 1925. Most of the park roads reflect careful attention to landscape concerns; they were designed not only to carry required traffic loads but also to integrate with their natural settings. PROJECT INFORMATION: Documentation of the Yosemite National Park Roads and Bridges is part of the NPS Roads and Bridges Recording Project, conducted in summer 1991 by the Historic American Engineering Record of the National Park Service. Richard H. Quin, HAER Historian, 1991 YOSEMITE ROADS AND BRIDGES HAER No. CA-117 (page 2) INTRODUCTION In summer 1849, gold-seeking prospectors toiled up the valley of the Merced River as part of the fabled California Gold Rush. They ranged into lands long used by native peoples, and conflict invariably arose. The prospectors exploited some Indians as laborers in exchange for small goods and food. Before long, the resentful natives began to raid the stores that white traders established for the newly-established mines. One of these was a trading post on the Fresno River owned by James D. Savage, who maintained an extensive trade with both the Indians and the prospectors. Savage's post was plundered and his men in charge were murdered. In response, the white men of the neighborhood appealed to the Governor, who authorized the organization of a volunteer militia, the "Mariposa Battalion." Savage was elected Major and the Mariposa Indian War was on.l Although federal commissioners were able to intervene and convince most of the Indians to give up hostilities. However, some refused to come in, and Savage was ordered to seek them out. Rumors were that a band called the "Yosemites" were hiding in a remote valley at the head of the Merced. Savage's force met a group of the Yosemite and their chief, Teneiya, on the South Fork of the Merced. Teneiya agreed to lead Savage to the valley, and on 27 March 1851, they came into view of Yosemite Valley. A doctor with A company, Lafayette Bunnell, recommended that it be given the name "Yosemity" after the tribe;2 the Indians called it Ahwahnee, meaning something like "deep grassy valley." It was, a Bunnell described it, "one of the most remarkable of the geographic wonders of the world." The 7-square mile Valley, was bounded by mile-high granite walls and glaciated domes and was floored in luxurious meadows. The tallest waterfalls in North America leaped from the towering cliffs. The militiamen were entranced at the scene. The Mariposa Battalion was unable to round up all of the Yosemite, but news about the marvelous Yosemite Valley got out, and before long, groups began seeking out the Valley and its wonders. 1 Francis P. Farquhar, History of the Sierra Nevada (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1965), 71-72. 2 Ibid .. YOSEMITE ROADS AND BRIDGES HAER No. CA-117 (page 3) CHAPTER ONE SCENES OF WONDER AND CURIOSITY Yo Semite is the crowding of a multitude of romantic, peculiar and grand scenes within a very small space. --John s. Hittell's Guide Book3 The earliest routes in the Yosemite area were Indian trails, at times improved by wandering cattlemen and sheepherders, by miners, and by pack traders who carried goods to supply the mines. One of the first trails approximated the route of the later road from the Wawona area to Yosemite Valley.4 The first tourists to see the valley--James Mason Hutchings, Thomas A. Ayers, Wesley Millard and Alexander Stair, accompanied by two Indian guides--came in 1855, spending five days in "luxurious scenic banqueting" on the valley floor. Hutchings, a young English emigrant who had come to California during the Gold Rush, was an entrepreneur planning the publication of Hutchings' Illustrated California Magazine. Intrigued by reports of a 1,000' waterfall in the area, he engaged Ayers, a San Francisco artist, to prepare sketches of the phenomenon. On Hutchings' return to Mariposa, he was requested to prepare a short article on the find for the Mariposa Gazette by editor L. H. Holmes. This was the first published article on the Yosemite country and launched the interest of other tourists in the incomparable beauty of the place.s Inspired by Hutching's account of the scenery, tourists began to enter the Yosemite country by August of the same year, making use of the old Indian paths. Soon, the first "improvements" appeared. Two of the August visitors, 3 Quoted in James M. Hutchings, In the Heart of the Sierras, the Yo Semite Valley, Both Historical and Descriptive, and Scenes by the Way; the Big Tree Groves, the High Sierra, with its Magnificent Scenery, Ancient and Modern Glaciers, and Other Points of Interest, with Tables of Distances and Altitudes, Maps, Etc., Profusely Illustrated (Oakland, CA: Pacific Press Publishing House, 1886; reprint, Lafayette, CA: Great West Books, 1990), 15. 4 Linda Wedel Greene, Yosemite, The Park and Its Resources: A History of the Discovery, Management and Physical Development of Yosemite National Park, California, 3 vols. (Denver, CO: National Park Service, Denver Service Center, 1987) I I: 31. 5 c. Frank Brockman, "Development of Transportation to Yosemite," Yosemite Nature Notes XXII (June 1943), 49, 52. No copy of the Hutchings article apparently survives, but it was picked up and republished by the Daily Alta Californian. YOSEMITE ROADS AND BRIDGES HAER No. CA-117 (page 4) Milton and Houston Mann, saw an opportunity for profit in providing better access to the valley and with their brother Andrew undertook construction of a toll trail between Mormon Bar (below Mariposa) and Yosemite Valley. Their saddle route used existing Indian trails as far as present Wawona, then followed Alder Creek a short distance, reached the rim of the valley at or near Old Inspiration Point, and then dropped to the valley floor near the base of Bridalveil Fall. This indirect routing, higher than the Indian trails, was selected because it passed through several meadows that could be utilized for feeding stock. The route was known for a while as the "Mariposa Trail." The Manns engaged an artist named Claveau to paint scenes of the Yosemite country in order to promote travel on their trail. Claveau turned out to be a fraud, overcharging the brothers for a series of "wretched daubs."6 The high meadows along the route soon attracted sheepherders, and two camps were established, Westfall's and Ostrander's. The sheepherder camps were occasionally put into service as hostels and lunch-rooms for travelers on the trail. In 1868, a guidebook stated that the sites could be "easily recognized from the number of empty tin cans lying about."7 The sheep had appeared in the Sierra as early as 1856, and were driven to the mountain meadows in great numbers after the severe drought of 1864. The mountain grazing of sheep was a California version of the "long drive" which varied with markets, wintering grounds and railheads. Also settling along the trail was Galen Clark (1814-1910), who had visited the Valley in 1855 with one of the first tourist parties. Clark was so impressed with the country that he returned in 1857 and established a camp on the South Fork of the Merced River at what the Indians came to call "Pallachun," meaning "a good place to stop;" the site now known as Wawona. Clark sought out the high country in an apparently successful attempt to recover from a diagnosis of terminal tuberculosis, and would come to play a pivotal role in the Yosemite story. His camp evolved from a primitive hospice to become the fore­ runner of the Wawona Hotel. Clark became involved in road-building schemes in order to draw more visitors into the area, hoping to gain their patronage. Although his road projects never reached completion and ultimately forced him into arrears, he became a powerful advocate for Yosemite. In 1857, Clark and Milton Mann located a large grove of more than two hundred giant sequoias. (This grove had previously been seen by a man named Ogg, but had drawn no visitors.) They soon began promoting this "Mariposa" Big Tree Grove in order to draw more visitors.8 6 Brockman, 53-54. 7 Ibid .. 8 Idem, "Principal Administrative Officers of Yosemite," Yosemite Nature Notes XXVI (March 1947), 54; Margaret Sanborn, Yosemite: Its Discovery, Its Wonders, and its People (New York: Random House, 1981), 88 YOSEMITE ROADS AND BRIDGES HAER No. CA-117 (page 5) Some time later, Charles Peregoy built a "public house" at the mid-way point on the trail in the meadows which today bear his name.
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