©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

BATH, BRISTOL & THE SOUTHWEST

DAMIAN HARPER, BELINDA DIXON, OLIVER BERRY Contents

Plan Your Trip Welcome to Bath, Bristol & the Southwest .... 4 Top Sights ...... 6 Eating ...... 12 Drinking & Nightlife...... 14 Shopping ...... 16 Architecture ...... 18 Museums...... 20 Festivals & Events ...... 21 Activities ...... 22 For Kids ...... 23 Four Perfect Days...... 24 Need to Know...... 26

Strollers pass Banksy’s Well Hung Lover (p81) 1000 WORDS/SHUTTERSTOCK © Explore Bath, Survival Bristol & the Guide 141 Southwest 31 Before You Go...... 142 Central Bath...... 33 Arriving in Bath, Bristol & the Royal Crescent Southwest...... 143 & Northwest Bath...... 51 Getting Around...... 145 Bristol City Centre...... 69 Essential Clifton ...... 91 Information...... 146 Wiltshire ...... 105 Index...... 153 Somerset...... 125

Worth a Trip Special Features Exmoor National Park...... 66 Roman Baths...... 34 Isle of Wight ...... 102 Royal Crescent...... 52 Stonehenge ...... 122 Jane Austen Centre...... 54 SS Great Britain...... 70 Bristol Museum & Art Gallery...... 72 M Shed...... 74 Clifton Suspension Bridge...... 92 Salisbury...... 106 Avebury...... 112 Glastonbury...... 126 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Welcome to Bath, Bristol & the Southwest

This is a spectacular region of England, where primordial stone circles hum with energy as ancient Roman baths, serene cathedrals, genteel Georgian cityscapes, colossal bridges and top-drawer museums await exploration. And the great outdoors is never far away, with rugged hikes through sublime moorland or breezy escapades around the Isle of Wight. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 6 Top Sights

Roman Baths Steaming waters and Roman remains. p34 Plan Your TripPlan ARIADNA DE RAADT/SHUTTERSTOCK © Top Sights ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 12 Eating Plan Your TripPlan

The southwest has spearheaded England’s culinary renaissance and eateries everywhere fly the flag for local, seasonal, organic produce. The

Eating surrounding seas produce just-landed fish, moors and hills provide venison and game, fertile fields add the veg, while harbours and hills add the views.

Gastropubs noon tea should be a of course at dedi- deeply satisfying af- cated veggie/vegan While the food in fair. A basic minimum ­restaurants. many pubs is good should be scones, quality and good jam, cream and tea value, some places By Budget £ (in a pot, naturally). raised the bar to such Thoughtful Bread The best place in a degree that a whole ­Company Quality baking Bath to experience it new genre of eatery – with a slow-food soul. (p42) all is the 18th-century the ­gastropub – was Bertinet Bakery French flair setting of the Pump born. The finest and perfect patisserie. (p43) Room Restaurant gastro­pubs are ef- Fine Cheese Co Deli with (p45). fectively restaurants a gorgeous selection of (with smart decor, cheese and a fine cafe. (p57) neat menus and Vegetarians Café Retro A beatnik uniformed table For vegetarians, many hangout close to city centre ­service; a few have restaurants and pubs sights. (p44) won Michelin stars). have at least one Primrose Quality ingre- token vegetarian dish, dients and old favourites, plus some international while better places Afternoon Tea surprises; Clifton’s favourite offer much more An English institution cafe. (p98) imaginative choices. (which locals tend to Canteen This vibrant Vegans will find the reserve for special community-run cafe-bar is going trickier, except occasions), after- 14 Drinking & Nightlife Plan Your TripPlan Bath boasts some cracking pubs and clubs; the streets to the north and west of the Roman Baths are good places to start explorations. In Bristol, the Floating Harbour and City Dock areas

Drinking &Drinking Nightlife get lively at night, with plenty of bars along Cannon’s Rd and the north end of Welsh Back. Clifton also has a good choice of welcoming pubs and bars.

Bars & Pubs it’s often called ‘bitter’, ­cider’, often with to distinguish it from various fruit or herbal In England, the lager, which is gener- flavours added. Try difference between ally yellow and served ‘scrumpy’, a very a bar and a pub is cold. strong dry cider tra- sometimes vague, Beer that’s brewed ditionally made from but generally bars are and served tradition- local apples. smarter and louder ally is called ‘real than pubs, possibly ale’ to distinguish it with a younger crowd. Tea & Coffee from mass-produced Drinks in English Although tea is often brands, and there pubs are ordered and billed as the national are many regional paid for at the bar. drink, tea consump- varieties. A new breed When it comes to gra- tion fell by around of microbreweries tuities, it’s not usual to 20% in the five years has sprung up over tip pub and bar staff. to 2015, and coffee is the last decade, becoming ever more producing their own popular. The British Beer & Cider varieties of traditional coffee-shop market English beer typi- and innovative brews, is worth almost £8 cally ranges from dark usually referred to as billion a year, but with brown to bright amber ‘craft beers’. the prices some coffee in colour, served at Cider is available shops charge, maybe room temperature. sweet or dry and, that’s not surprising. Technically it’s ale but increasingly, as ‘craft 18 Architecture Plan Your TripPlan Southwest England’s architecture spans some five millennia, ranging from Stone- henge to the Clifton Suspension Bridge and beyond. A veritable design timeline can be traced through the architecture

Architecture of any of England’s villages, towns and cities. Prepare for Roman baths, parish churches, magnificent cathedrals, hum- ble cottages and grand, stately homes.

Early era: menhirs (standing Stately Foundations stones), particularly Architecture when set out in rings, The oldest surviving such as the iconic A more comfort- structures in England stone circle of Stone- able and genteel are the grass-covered henge (p122) and the form of their castle mounds of earth even larger Avebury forbears, the great known as ‘tumuli’ or Stone Circle (p113). stately homes of ‘barrows’, used as bur- England display the ial sites by England’s proportion, symmetry prehistoric residents. The Roman Era and architectural These mounds are Roman remains are harmony so in vogue especially common in found in many English during the 17th and chalk areas such as towns and cities, 18th centuries. The Salisbury Plain and the but one of the most styles were later Wiltshire Downs. outstanding pieces of reflected in the fash- The largest­ and heritage­ from the era is ionable town houses most mysterious chalk the lavish Roman spa of the Georgian era – mound is Silbury Hill and bathing complex most notably in Bath, (p113), near Marl- in Bath (p34). Another where the stunning borough. Even more fine example from Royal Crescent is the impressive than giant the period is Brading epitome of the genre. tumuli are another ­Roman Villa (p103) on legacy of the Neolithic the Isle of Wight. 20 Museums Plan Your TripPlan

DAVE GOODMAN/SHUTTERSTOCK © Museums Best Museums Herschel Museum of Bristol Museum & Astronomy The Bath home Art Gallery From John for History of William Herschel, who first Constable to Banksy and Roman Baths Museum discovered Uranus. (p40) beyond. (p72) Riveting museum displaying Fox Talbot Museum Fashion Museum Cor- a wealth of Roman artefacts. Celebrating the English sets, crinolines, velvet and (p35) pioneer of the photographic silk – top-notch, annually Coleridge Cottage negative, William Henry Fox changing couture displays. House museum and former Talbot. (p120) (p60) home of Samuel Taylor Coleridge. (p137) Best Best Museums Magna Carta One of four surviving copies of the epoch- Architecture of Local Culture making document. (p107) Museums Willows & Wetlands Compre- M Shed Terrific museum Clifton Suspension Visitor Centre hensive look at the historic devoted to the history and Bridge Visitor Cen- willow industry. (p137) people of Bristol. (p74) tre Get the low-down on Jane Austen Centre Brunel’s grade-1 listed bridge Lake Village Museum Explores the wit, sights and over the River Avon. (p93) Fascinating finds from an ancient bog village; in smells of the novelist’s time Museum of Bath Glastonbury. (p127) in Bath. (p54) Architecture­ An A–Z of Salisbury Museum Bath building styles. (p60) ­Superb collection of Wiltshire Best Museums archaeological finds. (p108) Best Galleries for Transport for Art & Fashion Haynes Motor Museum Fantastic collection of cars. Best Science Victoria Art Gallery Am- Museums bitious artistic sweep, with (Pictured above; p138) works by Thomas Gainsbor- Fleet Air Arm Museum We the Curious Fun, Step on to the flight deck of educational and interactive ough, Walter Sickert and a Concorde supersonic pas- learning experience. (p80) John Nash – plus a program of talks. (p40) senger airliner. (p138) 23 For Kids Plan Your TripPlan Both Bath and Bristol have really got their act together for kids. Sights make facts fun; a range of activities – from cookery to theatre – cater to youngsters; and heritage attractions always have kids in mind. Somerset Kids For and Wiltshire are more spread out and pastoral, but great for children who like hiking. URBANBUZZ/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Sights Best for Bristol Aquarium Daily talks and feeding demos, for Kids Hands-On Fun plus a collection of sharks, SS Great Britain Take the Pump Room Water The hot- seahorses and rays. (p83) helm and climb the rigging. spring water is free and the (Pictured above; p70) sulphureous liquid is likely Bristol Museum & Art to induce squeals. (p45) Active & ­Gallery Dinosaur skin, a M Shed Ride on the mu- Outdoors giant biplane and mum- seum’s steam tugs, trains or Adventurous Activity mified cats, plus learning cranes then embark on the Company­ For everything zones. (p72) ABC of M Shed. (p74) from rock climbing and Roman Baths Steaming Bristol Street Art Tours abseiling to canoeing. (p85) pools, atmospheric cham- Fancy being a graffiti artist? Bath City Sightseeing bers and activity trails, plus Hour-long courses see older The chance to ride on an a free children’s audio tour. kids getting their hands on open-topped, red, double- (p34) the cans. (p82) decker bus. (p49) We the Curious Science Bloc One of the region’s meets creativity and play. Child-Friendly best bouldering walls runs (p80) special sessions for kids. Sights (p85) Bristol Zoo Gorillas, ­monkeys, penguins and seals – and a treetop adven- ture park. (p97) ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Bath, Bristol & the Southwest 44Regions Clifton (p91) Bristol City Handsome Clifton is Centre (p69) 4 home to its namesake Buzzing hub of Bristol, suspension bridge crammed with the picks spanning the spectacular of the city’s top heritage 44Avon Gorge,4 and a sights, thought-provoking tempting array of pubs street art and standout 444and restaurants.44 restaurants and shops. 44444 Avebury E# 44

Exmoor Stonehenge National E# E# Park Glastonbury E# Salisbury E#

Somerset (p125) 444 A peaceful corner of Isle of E# England, Somerset Wight eases you into low gear to explore ancient sights, 444 picturesque hills, dramatic gorges and inviting, ­low- 444 lying wetlands. Bath, Bristol & the Southwest Regions Royal Crescent & 44 Northwest Bath (p51) A delightful confluence of elegant Georgian 4 architecture and Jane Austen culture, with an alluring selection of 444 excellent restaurants and hip cafes. 44444 Central Bath (p33) Steeped in history, central 44444 Bath brings together the incomparable Roman Avebury E# Baths and imposing Bath 44 Abbey, plus a fine crop of dining choices.

Exmoor Stonehenge National E# E# Park Glastonbury E# Salisbury E#

444Wiltshire (p105) Isle of E# Wiltshire’s captivating Wight pastoral hues and comely 444villages are matched with the exceptional, ancient sights of Stonehenge and 444Avebury plus some serene architectural gems. Explore Bath, Bristol & the Southwest

Central Bath...... 33

Royal Crescent & Northwest Bath...... 51

Bristol City Centre...... 69

Clifton...... 91

Wiltshire...... 105

Somerset...... 125

Worth a Trip g Exmoor National Park...... 66

Isle of Wight...... 102

Stonehenge...... 122

Walking Tours c Central Bath...... 36

Royal Crescent & Northwest Bath...... 56

Bristol City Centre...... 76

Clifton...... 94

Bath Abbey (p40) CHRISTIAN MUELLER/SHUTTERSTOCK © 33 Explore Y Central Bath Visitors are drawn to central Bath like metal to a mag- net. This is the location of the city’s ancient historic sights – the Roman Baths and Bath Abbey. Independ- ent stores and smart eateries line the streets fanning out all around – many are pedestrianised and make for vibrant and sophisticated places to stroll.

Central Bath is best explored on foot. Make a beeline to the Roman Baths (p34) and Bath Abbey (p40) – a great tactic to give you more chance of securing a slot on the abbey’s superb Tower Tours (p42). Two days gives you more time to do both sights, indulge in a cream tea and head out on a walking tour, while three days could see you also relaxing at Thermae Bath Spa (p41) and tying in a museum or two.

Getting There & Around Q Bath’s city centre is just 400m from the bus and train stations. J Buses 6/6A and 7 run between the bus and train stations and Parade Gardens, which is slightly east of Bath Abbey (£2.50, five minutes, every 15 minutes).

Central Bath Map on p38

The Pump Room (p35) 1000 WORDS/SHUTTERSTOCK © 51 Explore Y Royal Crescent & Northwest Bath Two things draw most visitors to northwest Bath: exquisite architecture and literary links – this is the home of the grand sweep of the Royal Crescent, the circular Circus and the Jane Austen Centre. Walcot St offers artisan workshops and retro stores, while a scattering of on-trend cafes, live-music venues and bars see Bath’s hipsters heading here for a night out.

A well-trodden trail leads from the Roman Baths and Bath Abbey up streets lined with chichi shops to the Circus (p60) and then to the start of the Royal Crescent (p52). Heading straight into No 1 Royal Crescent ensures you get plenty of background about the curving terrace before you stroll along its length. From there, heading back via the Georgian Garden (p61) and the Jane Austen Centre (p54) is a popular approach. You can manage to see all of these sights in a day, before heading to the neigh- bourhood’s restaurants, clubs and bars.

Getting There & Around Q The Royal Crescent is around 1 mile from Bath’s bus and train stations. The Circus is some 600m from the Roman Baths and Bath Abbey. J Take bus 6 or 7 from the train station to the Alfred St stop on Lansdown Rd; the Circus is a 200m walk west from there. Bath City Sightseeing buses run here.

Royal Crescent & Northwest Bath Map on p58

Georgian Garden (p61) HILDAWEGES PHOTOGRAPHY/GETTY IMAGES © 69 Explore Y Bristol City Centre Vibrant central Bristol is the city’s historic and present-day heart. It’s packed with restaurants, pubs and bars, and stacked with sights ranging from unique hands-on heritage attractions to counter- culture street art. Here you’ll find a broad range of places to sleep, an exciting cultural backdrop and, in the harbour area, a thriving, attractive space with a fun-loving vibe.

Head straight for the SS Great Britain (p70) and the ships and cranes of the M Shed (p74), and allow yourself at least half a day at both. While here, make sure you take in the Banksy artworks in the area – his street art is another defining characteristic of contemporary Bristol. The thought-provoking We the Curious (p80) deserves at least a few hours of your time; the old city’s shops and thriving St Nicholas Market (p89), with its wealth of food stalls, are just a short walk away, while the Bristol Museum & Art Gallery (p72) is slightly further north.

Getting There & Around J The MetroBus (www.metrobusbristol.co.uk) M2 service runs between Bristol Temple Meads train station, the city centre, the SS Great Britain and Long Ashton Park and Ride. f Bristol Ferry Boat Company (Map p78, E4; %0117- 927 3416; www.bristolferry.com) runs two routes, with stops including Welsh Back, the harbour near the M Shed museum, the SS Great Britain and Temple Meads. Bristol Packet (p83) runs harbour tours.

Bristol City Centre Map on p78

Christmas Steps street CLAUDIO DIVIZIA/SHUTTERSTOCK © 91 Explore Y Clifton Set on the edge of Bristol, Clifton is far enough away to maintain a village atmosphere, but close enough to revel in the city’s cosmopolitan feel. Victorian and Georgian terraces and swaths of grassland (the Downs) make it beautiful; the Avon Gorge and Clifton Suspension Bridge add drama; and intimate eateries, hip bars and snug pubs make it inviting.

Make straight for the Clifton Suspension Bridge (p92), walk onto it from the Clifton side and cross on foot to the visitor centre on the west bank. The Clifton Observatory (p97) is worth dropping by on the east bank. The Bristol Lido (p97) will occupy half a day, but note that its pool, sauna and spa are open to nonmembers on weekday afternoons only. Clifton’s other great delight is the village itself – make sure you allow at least half a day to discover its ornate Georgian and Victorian terraces and browse in the ranks of independent shops. Night-time brings an opportunity to explore the many pubs, eateries and bars.

Getting There & Around J Every 15 minutes, bus 8 shuttles from Bristol Temple Meads Train Station to Clifton, via College Green in the city centre.

Clifton Map on p96

A Clifton Village street LOU ARMOR/SHUTTERSTOCK © 105 Explore Y Wiltshire Wiltshire’s verdant landscape is littered with more mysterious stone circles, processional avenues and ancient barrows than anywhere else in Britain. Take prehistoric Stonehenge and the atmospheric stone ring at Avebury and add 800-year-old Salisbury cathedral, the stately homes at Stourhead and Longleat and the impossibly pretty village of Lacock, and you’ve a county crammed with English charm.

After breakfast in Salisbury, explore Salisbury Ca- thedral (p107), but aim to be on a tour (p107; book up front). Visit the Chapter House to admire the copy of the Magna Carta (p107) and savour the his- toric charms of the medieval Cathedral Close (p107). For lunch, enjoy fine British cuisine at Charter 1227 (p110) by historic Market Square (p108). After lunch, drive to Stonehenge (p122) and its impressive visitor centre, via the grassy ramparts of Old Sarum (p108). Round off your day by continuing north to Avebury to see the world’s largest stone circle (p113) and downing a pint at the world’s only pub within a stone circle, the Red Lion (p115).

Getting There & Around L Trains run from London Waterloo to Salisbury (£23, 1½ hours, at least hourly), and to Exeter and Plymouth. g First (www.firstgroup.com) serves west Wiltshire; Salisbury Reds (www.salisburyreds.co.uk) covers Salisbury and many rural areas; and Stagecoach (www.stagecoachbus. com) runs around Swindon and Salisbury.

Wiltshire Map on p116

Gate to Cathedral Close (p107), Salisbury NUSSAR/SHUTTERSTOCK © 125 Explore Y Somerset With its pastoral landscape of hedgerows, fields and hummocked hills, sleepy Somerset is the very picture of rural England. The cathedral city of Wells is an atmospheric base for exploring the limestone caves and gorges around Cheddar, while the hippie haven of Glastonbury is handy for venturing to the Somerset Levels and the high hills of the Quantocks.

Start your day early with a bracing walk up Glaston- bury Tor (p127) in the morning light before descend- ing towards the dramatic ruins of Glastonbury Abbey (p127), passing Chalice Well & Gardens (p127) and the White Spring (p128) en route. After admiring the sublime abbey vestiges, pop into the Lake Village Museum (p127) before having lunch at cool Bocabar (p128). In the afternoon, drive to Wells and make sure you have a place booked for the behind-the- scenes tour (p133) of superb Wells Cathedral (p132). Don’t overlook the Vicars’ Close (p132), with its medieval flavours, before enjoying dinner at nearby Goodfellows Cafe & Seafood Restaurant (p135) or Square Edge (p135).

Getting There & Around For timetables and general information, contact Traveline South West (www.travelinesw.com). u The M5 heads south past Bristol to Bridgwater and Taunton, while the A39 leads west across the Quantocks to Exmoor. L Key train services link Bath, Bristol, Bridgwater, Taunton and Weston-super-Mare. g First (www.firstgroup.com) is a key local bus operator.

Somerset Map on p130

Wells (p132) IAN WOOLCOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK © Survival Guide Before You Go 142 Arriving in Bath, Bristol & the Southwest 143 Bristol Airport...... 143 Bath Spa Train Station...... 144 Bristol Temple Meads Train Station...... 144 Bath Bus Station...... 144 Bristol Bus Station...... 144 Getting Around 145 Bus...... 145 Bicycle...... 145 Boat...... 145 Car & Motorcycle...... 145 Taxi...... 145 Essential Information 146 Business Hours...... 146 Discount Cards...... 146 Electricity...... 147 LGBTIQ+ Travellers...... 147 Money...... 147 Public Holidays...... 148 Safe Travel...... 148 Toilets...... 148 Tourist Information...... 149 Visas...... 149

Bath Bus Station (p144) DRIMAFILM/SHUTTESTOCK © ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 153 Index See also separate subindexes for: 5 Eating p155 6 Drinking p156 3 Entertainment p156 7 Shopping p156

A Bath (central) 33-49, beer 14, 15 Bristol Aquarium 38-9 Bertinet Kitchen 83-4 Abbey House drinking 46-7 63 Bristol Cathedral 80 Gardens­ 120 entertainment 47 bicycle travel, see Bristol Highlights accommodation 142-3 food 42-6 cycling Walk 83 activities 22, see birdwatching 133 Bristol Lido 95, 97 also individual itineraries 36-7, 36 Bishop’s Palace Bristol Museum & activities shopping 49 (Salisbury) 107-8 Art Gallery 72-3 Adventurous Activity sights 34-5, 40-2 Bishop’s Palace Bristol Packet 83 Company 85 tours 41, 42, 49 (Wells) 133 Bristol Street Art afternoon tea 12 transport 33

Bizarre Bath Comedy Tours 82 Index American Museum in walks 36-7, 36 Walk 41 Bristol Zoo Gardens Britain 42 Bath (northwest) Blaise Castle House 97 architecture 18-19, 62 51-65, 58-9 80 Brunel Institute 84-5 Arnolfini 77 drinking 64 Bloc 85 budget 26 art 16, 82, 87 entertainment 64-5 boat travel 145 bus travel 145 Ashton Court Estate food 61-4 boat trips 22, 42, 83 business hours 146 99 itineraries 56-7, 56 bowling 81, 83 ATMs 147 shopping 16, 65 Brading Roman Villa C Austen, Jane 54-5, 61 sights 52-5, 60-1 103 Cabot Tower 83 Avebury 112-15 transport 51 bridges 19 canoeing 85 Avebury Manor 114 Bristol 69-89, , walks 56-7, 56 78-9 car travel 145 Avebury Stone Circle see also Clifton Bath Abbey 40 Castles stencil 81 113, 121 activities 85 Bath Abbey Tower Cathedral Close 107 Tours 42 drinking 87-8 B caving 137 Bath Aqua Glass 57 entertainment 88 cell phones 26 Banksy 73, 75, 80-1, Bath Assembly food 85-7 Chalice Well & 82 Rooms 61 itineraries 76-7, 76 Gardens 127 Barber Surgeon Bath City Boat shopping 16, 88-9 Stone 113 Chapter House 107 Trips 42 sights 70-5, 80-5 bars 14, 15 Cheddar 136-7 Bath City tours 83 Sightseeing­ 49 Cheddar Gorge 136 transport 69, 83 bathrooms 148 Cheddar Gorge walks 76-7, 76 Sights 000 Beau Street Hoard 35 Cheese Company Bristol & Bath 136, 137 Map Pages Beckford’s Tower 64 000 Railway Path 85 children, travel with 23 154

cider 14 driving 145 Herschel Museum of Market Square 108 Circus, the 60 Dunster Castle 67 Astronomy 40-1 Matthew 80 Cliff Railway 67 High Parts Tour 133 Mayor’s Guide Tours Clifton 91-101, 96, see E highlights 6-11 42 menhirs 121 also Bristol electricity 147 hiking 22, 67 drinking 99-100 etiquette 146 Hinton St George 138 Mild Mild West 82 mobile phones 26 entertainment 100 events 21 history 47, 115, 121 food 98-9 exchange rates 147 holidays 148 Mompesson House 108 itineraries 94-5, 94 Exmoor National hot springs 34-5, money 43, 146, 147-8 shopping 100-1 Park 66-7, 66 40, 41 Montacute House sights 92-3, 97 F I 138 transport 91 motorcycle travel 145 internet resources 26, walks 94-5, 94 Fashion Museum 60 Museum of Bath 142-3 Clifton Downs 95 ferry travel 145 Architecture 60-1 Clifton Observatory festivals 21 Isle of Wight 102-3, Museum of & Camera Fleet Air Arm 102 Somerset­ 137 Obscura­ 95, 97 Museum 138 itineraries 24-5 museums 20 Clifton Suspension food 12-13, see also Bridge 92-3 Eating subindex, J N climate 142 ­individual locations Jane Austen Centre Needles, the 103 climbing 85 Fox Talbot Museum 54-5

Index nightlife 14-15 clubs 15 120 No 1 Royal Crescent coffee 14 K G 53 Coleridge Cottage 137 kayaking 85 No 11 Royal ­Crescent gardens 19 College of Matrons King Alfred’s Tower 53 108 gastropubs 12 118 cookery classes 63 gay travellers 147 O Georgian Garden 61 costs 26, 43, 146 L Old Deanery 132 Cowes Week 103 Georgian House 84 Lacock 120-1 Old Sarum 108 Cox’s Cave 136 Giant’s Cave 97 Lacock Abbey 120 opening hours 146 credit cards 147-8 Girl with the Pierced Lake Village Museum Osborne House 103 crime 148 Eardrum 80-1 Glastonbury 126-9 127-8 currency 147 P Glastonbury Abbey Lanes 81, 83 Cycle the City 81 127 language 26 Paint Pot Angel 73 cycling 81, 85, 133, 145 Glastonbury Festival Leigh Woods 95 parks 19 129 LGBTIQ+ travellers planning 26-27 D Glastonbury Tor 127 147 Porlock 67 dangers 148 Gough’s Cave 136 Longleat 118-19 Porlock Weir 67 drinking 14-15, see also graffiti 82, 87 Poultry Cross 108 ­Drinking ­subindex, Grim Reaper 75 M Prior Park 45 ­individual locations M Shed 74-5 public holidays 148 H Magna Carta 107 pubs 14, 15 Sights 000 Ham Hill 139 Malmesbury 119-20 Pulteney Bridge 40 Pulteney Cruisers 42 Map Pages 000 Haynes Motor Malmesbury Abbey Museum 138-9 119 Pump Room 35 155

Q SUP Bristol 85 Wells 132-6 Cargo 86 swimming 95, 97 Wells Cathedral 132 Chapter & Holmes 98 Quantocks, the 139 Swindon Stone 113 Wells Museum 134 Charlie Friday’s 67 West Kennet Avenue Charter 1227 110 R T 115 Chequers 63 Red Lodge 84 West Kennet Long Tarr Steps 67 Circles 115 Barrow 114 Ridgeway National Taunton 137 Circus, the 61-2 Trail 115 West Somerset taxis 145-6 Clifton Sausage 99 Ring Stone 113 Railway 133 tea 14 Cloisters 111 River Avon 37, 42 White Spring 128 telephone services 26 Rocksport 136 Willows & Wetlands D Thermae Bath Spa Visitor Centre 137 Roman Baths 34-5 Danny’s Craft Bar 37, 41 Wilton House 119 Royal Crescent 52-3 110-11 time 26 Wiltshire 105-21, 116-17 Dockyard Cafe 85 tipping 148 transport 105 S F toilets 148 Woodhenge 110 safety 148 top sights 6-11 Wookey Hole 134 Farmers Market 43 Salisbury 106-11, 109 tourist information 149 Fine Cheese Co 57 Salisbury Cathedral tours 22 Y Fishers 99 107 transport 27, 143-6 Yeovil 138-9 G Salisbury Museum tumuli 121 108 George Inn 121

Tyntesfield 134 Z Index Sanctuary 115 Glassboat 87 Z Feature 113 shopping 16-17, see V Good Earth 135 also Shopping Zooropia 97 Goodfellows Cafe subindex, ­individual vegetarian travellers & Seafood locations 12, 44-5, 115, ­Restaurant 135 ­128-9, 135 5 Silbury Hill 113-14, Eating H 121 Vicars’ Close 132-3 A Somerset 125-39, Victoria Art Gallery Hudson Steakhouse 130-1 37, 40 Acorn 44-5 63-4 transport 125 vintage-clothing Adventure Cafe Bar 57 Hundred Monkeys Cafe 128-9 Somerset Levels 133 shops 17 Ale & Oyster 103 spas 22 visas 149-50 Allium 46 K SS Great Britain 70-1 Anokaa 111 King John’s Hunting St James Church 115 W Avebury Manor Tea Lodge 120-1 Room 115 St Nicholas Market Wadworth Brewery King’s House 110 77, 89 120 B L St Thomas’s Church Walcot St 57 Bertinet Bakery 43-4 108 walks, see individual Lord Poulett Arms Bishop’s Table 134 138 stand up locations Black Sheep 103 ­paddleboarding 85 Wallace & Gromit M Bocabar 128 Stokes Croft 87 75, 88 Boston Tea Party 85-6 M Cafe 75 Stonehenge 121, We the Curious 80 Marlborough ­Tavern 122-3 weather 142 C 63 Stourhead 118 websites 26, 142-3 Café Retro 44 Menu Gordon Jones street art 82, 87 Well Hung Lover 81 Canteen 87 46 156

O W Haunch of Venison 111 7 Shopping Mud Dock 77 Arnolfini 77 Olive Shed 87 Who’d a Thought It Red Lion 115 Cabot Circus 16 Ox 86-7 Inn 129 Salamander 47 Woods 67 Dig Haüshizzle 89 P Small St Espresso 77 Dustbowl 101 Y Pieminister 85 Star 64 Henge Shop 113 Primrose Cafe 95, 98 Yen Sushi 63 Strangers with Coffee Jemima Rose 100 Pump Room 135 Katherine Fraser 65 ­Restaurant 45-6 Thekla 88 Loot 89 6 Drinking R Who’d a Thought It Makers 88-9 Adventure Cafe Bar 57 Inn 129 Papersmiths 101 Rainbow’s End 128 Albion 100 Yoyo 111 Resolution Records Riverstation 86 Amoeba 95, 99-100 49 S Apple 87-8 SouthGate 49 3Entertainment Bell 64 St Nicholas Market Sally Lunn’s 44 Bristol Fringe 100 BrewDog 77 77, 89 Same Same But Bristol Old Vic 88 ­Different 63 Chapel 111 Stanfords 89 Colston Hall 88 Scallop Shell 37, 45 Circo 57 Tasting Room 49 Komedia 47, 49 Shop 3 98-9 Cloisters 111 Topping & Company Colonna & Smalls 46 Little Theatre Cinema 57 Sotto Sotto 46 37 Square Edge 135-6 Corkage 64 Urban Fox 89 Index Moles 64-5 Coronation Tap 100 Yellow Shop 65 Strangers with Coffee Salisbury Arts Centre Danny’s Craft Bar 111 135 111 George & Pilgrim 129 T Salisbury Playhouse George Inn 121 111 Thali Café 99 Grain Barge 100 Theatre Royal 47 Thoughtful Bread Griffin 46-7 Company 37, 42-3 Watershed 77

Sights 000 Map Pages 000 160 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Our Writers

Damian Harper With two degrees, London-born Damian has been writing for Lonely Planet for more than two decades, contributing to titles as diverse as England, China, Vietnam, Thailand, Ireland, Mallorca, South Korea and Hong Kong. Damian has penned articles for numerous newspapers and maga- zines, including the Guardian and the Daily Telegraph, and currently makes south England his home. His hobbies in- clude playing the flugelhorn, photography and Taekwondo. Follow Damian on Instagram (damian.harper). Belinda Dixon Only happy when her feet are suitably sandy, Belinda has been (gleefully) researching and writing for Lonely Planet since 2006. It’s seen her marvelling at Stonehenge at sunrise, camping in Iceland, scrambling up Italian moun- tain paths, kayaking down Devon rivers, gazing at Verona’s frescoes and fossil hunting on Dorset’s Jurassic Coast. Our WritersOur Belinda is also an adventure writer and expedition media leader. See her posts at https://belindadixon.com.

Oliver Berry Oliver Berry is a writer and photographer from Cornwall. He has worked for Lonely Planet for more than a decade, covering destinations from Cornwall to the Cook Islands, and has worked on more than 30 guidebooks. He is also a regular contributor to many newspapers and magazines, including Lonely Planet Traveller. His writing has won sev- eral awards, including the Guardian Young Travel Writer of the Year and the TNT Magazine People’s Choice Award. His latest work is published at www.oliverberry.com.

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