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Pocket Bath, Bristol & the Southwest

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Pocket Bath, Bristol & the Southwest ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd BATH, BRISTOL & THE SOUTHWEST DAMIAN HARPER, BELINDA DIXON, OLIVER BERRY Contents Plan Your Trip Welcome to Bath, Bristol & the Southwest .... 4 Top Sights .......................... 6 Eating ............................... 12 Drinking & Nightlife ......... 14 Shopping .......................... 16 Architecture .................... 18 Museums .......................... 20 Festivals & Events ........... 21 Activities .......................... 22 For Kids ........................... 23 Four Perfect Days ............ 24 Need to Know ................... 26 Strollers pass Banksy’s Well Hung Lover (p81) 1000 WORDS/SHUTTERSTOCK © Explore Bath, Survival Bristol & the Guide 141 Southwest 31 Before You Go ................ 142 Central Bath ..................... 33 Arriving in Bath, Bristol & the Royal Crescent Southwest....................... 143 & Northwest Bath .............51 Getting Around .............. 145 Bristol City Centre ........... 69 Essential Clifton ................................91 Information..................... 146 Wiltshire ......................... 105 Index ................................ 153 Somerset ........................ 125 Worth a Trip Special Features Exmoor National Park ..... 66 Roman Baths .................... 34 Isle of Wight ................... 102 Royal Crescent ................. 52 Stonehenge ................... 122 Jane Austen Centre ......... 54 SS Great Britain ............... 70 Bristol Museum & Art Gallery ..................... 72 M Shed .............................. 74 Clifton Suspension Bridge ...................................92 Salisbury ......................... 106 Avebury ............................ 112 Glastonbury .................... 126 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Welcome to Bath, Bristol & the Southwest This is a spectacular region of England, where primordial stone circles hum with energy as ancient Roman baths, serene cathedrals, genteel Georgian cityscapes, colossal bridges and top-drawer museums await exploration. And the great outdoors is never far away, with rugged hikes through sublime moorland or breezy escapades around the Isle of Wight. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 6 Top Sights Roman Baths Steaming waters and Roman remains. p34 Plan Trip Your ARIADNA DE RAADT/SHUTTERSTOCK © RAADT/SHUTTERSTOCK DE ARIADNA Top Sights Top ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 12 Eating Plan Trip Your The southwest has spearheaded England’s culinary renaissance and eateries everywhere fly the flag for local, seasonal, organic produce. The Eating surrounding seas produce just-landed fish, moors and hills provide venison and game, fertile fields add the veg, while harbours and hills add the views. Gastropubs noon tea should be a of course at dedi- deeply satisfying af- cated veggie/vegan While the food in fair. A basic minimum restaurants. many pubs is good should be scones, quality and good jam, cream and tea value, some places By Budget £ (in a pot, naturally). raised the bar to such Thoughtful Bread The best place in a degree that a whole Company Quality baking Bath to experience it new genre of eatery – with a slow-food soul. (p42) all is the 18th-century the gastropub – was Bertinet Bakery French flair setting of the Pump born. The finest and perfect patisserie. (p43) Room Restaurant gastro pubs are ef- Fine Cheese Co Deli with (p45). fectively restaurants a gorgeous selection of (with smart decor, cheese and a fine cafe. (p57) neat menus and Vegetarians Café Retro A beatnik uniformed table For vegetarians, many hangout close to city centre service; a few have restaurants and pubs sights. (p44) won Michelin stars). have at least one Primrose Quality ingre- token vegetarian dish, dients and old favourites, plus some international while better places Afternoon Tea surprises; Clifton’s favourite offer much more An English institution cafe. (p98) imaginative choices. (which locals tend to Canteen This vibrant Vegans will find the reserve for special community-run cafe-bar is going trickier, except occasions), after- 14 Drinking & Nightlife Plan Trip Your Bath boasts some cracking pubs and clubs; the streets to the north and west of the Roman Baths are good places to start explorations. In Bristol, the Floating Harbour and City Dock areas Drinking & Nightlife Drinking & get lively at night, with plenty of bars along Cannon’s Rd and the north end of Welsh Back. Clifton also has a good choice of welcoming pubs and bars. Bars & Pubs it’s often called ‘bitter’, cider’, often with to distinguish it from various fruit or herbal In England, the lager, which is gener- flavours added. Try difference between ally yellow and served ‘scrumpy’, a very a bar and a pub is cold. strong dry cider tra- sometimes vague, Beer that’s brewed ditionally made from but generally bars are and served tradition- local apples. smarter and louder ally is called ‘real than pubs, possibly ale’ to distinguish it with a younger crowd. Tea & Coffee from mass-produced Drinks in English Although tea is often brands, and there pubs are ordered and billed as the national are many regional paid for at the bar. drink, tea consump- varieties. A new breed When it comes to gra- tion fell by around of microbreweries tuities, it’s not usual to 20% in the five years has sprung up over tip pub and bar staff. to 2015, and coffee is the last decade, becoming ever more producing their own popular. The British Beer & Cider varieties of traditional coffee-shop market English beer typi- and innovative brews, is worth almost £8 cally ranges from dark usually referred to as billion a year, but with brown to bright amber ‘craft beers’. the prices some coffee in colour, served at Cider is available shops charge, maybe room temperature. sweet or dry and, that’s not surprising. Technically it’s ale but increasingly, as ‘craft 18 Architecture Plan Trip Your Southwest England’s architecture spans some five millennia, ranging from Stone- henge to the Clifton Suspension Bridge and beyond. A veritable design timeline can be traced through the architecture Architecture of any of England’s villages, towns and cities. Prepare for Roman baths, parish churches, magnificent cathedrals, hum- ble cottages and grand, stately homes. Early era: menhirs (standing Stately Foundations stones), particularly Architecture when set out in rings, The oldest surviving such as the iconic A more comfort- structures in England stone circle of Stone- able and genteel are the grass-covered henge (p122) and the form of their castle mounds of earth even larger Avebury forbears, the great known as ‘tumuli’ or Stone Circle (p113). stately homes of ‘barrows’, used as bur- England display the ial sites by England’s proportion, symmetry prehistoric residents. The Roman Era and architectural These mounds are Roman remains are harmony so in vogue especially common in found in many English during the 17th and chalk areas such as towns and cities, 18th centuries. The Salisbury Plain and the but one of the most styles were later Wiltshire Downs. outstanding pieces of reflected in the fash- The largest and heri tage from the era is ionable town houses most mysterious chalk the lavish Roman spa of the Georgian era – mound is Silbury Hill and bathing complex most notably in Bath, (p113), near Marl- in Bath (p34). Another where the stunning borough. Even more fine example from Royal Crescent is the impressive than giant the period is Brading epitome of the genre. tumuli are another Roman Villa (p103) on legacy of the Neolithic the Isle of Wight. 20 Museums Plan Trip Your DAVE GOODMAN/SHUTTERSTOCK © Museums Best Museums Herschel Museum of Bristol Museum & Astronomy The Bath home Art Gallery From John for History of William Herschel, who first Constable to Banksy and Roman Baths Museum discovered Uranus. (p40) beyond. (p72) Riveting museum displaying Fox Talbot Museum Fashion Museum Cor- a wealth of Roman artefacts. Celebrating the English sets, crinolines, velvet and (p35) pioneer of the photographic silk – top-notch, annually Coleridge Cottage negative, William Henry Fox changing couture displays. House museum and former Talbot. (p120) (p60) home of Samuel Taylor Coleridge. (p137) Best Best Museums Magna Carta One of four surviving copies of the epoch- Architecture of Local Culture making document. (p107) Museums Willows & Wetlands Compre- M Shed Terrific museum Clifton Suspension Visitor Centre hensive look at the historic devoted to the history and Bridge Visitor Cen- willow industry. (p137) people of Bristol. (p74) tre Get the low-down on Jane Austen Centre Brunel’s grade-1 listed bridge Lake Village Museum Explores the wit, sights and over the River Avon. (p93) Fascinating finds from an ancient bog village; in smells of the novelist’s time Museum of Bath Glastonbury. (p127) in Bath. (p54) Architecture An A–Z of Salisbury Museum Bath building styles. (p60) Superb collection of Wiltshire Best Museums archaeological finds. (p108) Best Galleries for Transport for Art & Fashion Haynes Motor Museum Fantastic collection of cars. Best Science Victoria Art Gallery Am- Museums bitious artistic sweep, with (Pictured above; p138) works by Thomas Gainsbor- Fleet Air Arm Museum We the Curious Fun, Step on to the flight deck of educational and interactive ough, Walter Sickert and a Concorde supersonic pas- learning experience. (p80) John Nash – plus a program of talks. (p40) senger airliner. (p138) 23 For Kids Plan Trip Your Both Bath and Bristol have really got their act together for kids. Sights make facts fun; a range of activities – from cookery
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