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Islam As a Lived Tradition Islam as a Lived Tradition: Ethical Constellations of Muslim Food Practice in Mumbai Een verklaring van Islam als een Levende Traditie: Ethische Constellaties van Moslim Voedsel Praktijken in Mumbai (met een samenvatting in het Nederlands) Proefschrift ter verkrijging van de graad van doctor aan de Universiteit Utrecht op gezag van de rector magnificus, prof.dr. G.J. van der Zwaan, ingevolge het besluit van het college voor promoties in het openbaar te verdedigen op woensdag 10 mei 2017 des middags te 2.30 uur door Shaheed Tayob geboren op 28 juni 1984 te Kaapstad, Zuid Afrika 1A_BW proefschrift Shaheed Tayob[pr].job Table of Contents Table of Contents ..................................................................................................................................... i Acknowledgements ................................................................................................................................ iv Abstract ................................................................................................................................................. vii Chapter One: Islam as a Lived Tradition: The Ethics of Muslim Food Practices in Mumbai .................................................................................................................. 1 From Bombay to Mumbai: The Shifting Place of Muslims in the City .................................................. 3 The Anthropology of Islam: A Discursive Analysis ............................................................................... 11 Talal Asad: The ‘Discursive Turn’ ...................................................................................................... 11 The ‘Everyday Position’: An Alternative Approach .......................................................................... 13 Islam as a Lived Tradition: Between Discourse and Ordinary Ethics .................................................. 20 Norms, Virtues and the Everyday: Niyat (Intention) and Ritual Practice ........................................... 27 Chapter Outline ..................................................................................................................................... 33 Conclusion ............................................................................................................................................. 36 Chapter Two: Consuming and Producing Halal in Mumbai: Between Global Discourse and Local Practice .................................................................................. 38 Halal Certification as Audit Culture ...................................................................................................... 39 Moral Constitution, Niyat (intention) and Community in the Practice of Halal ................................. 41 Certifying Halal: Global Networks and Standards in Mumbai ............................................................. 47 Understanding India: Occupational Specialization and Indian Food Habits ................................... 50 Fast Food and Packaged Meat: Halal Practice Without Certification ............................................. 54 Certification, Fraud and Belief: Insaniyat and Debates over the Practice of Halal ............................. 56 Certification and International Accreditation: Insaniyat as Critique .............................................. 57 Sectarian Tension: Insaniyat as Moderation .................................................................................... 58 Producing Halal versus Certifying Halal ................................................................................................ 63 Conclusion ............................................................................................................................................. 66 Chapter Three: Producing Halal Chicken: Material form, Sensory Engagement and Situated Ethical Practice ........................................................................................ 70 South Mumbai Chicken and Mutton Centre: Producing Fresh Chicken ............................................. 73 ‘Frozen’ Chicken: Corporate Meat Production .................................................................................... 76 i 1B_BW proefschrift Shaheed Tayob[pr].job Producing Fresh Chicken: Trust and Halal Slaughter ........................................................................... 79 Fresh Chicken: Delivery, Selective Pricing and the Production of Trust ............................................. 82 Fresh and ‘Frozen’ Chicken: Freshness and Taste versus Aspiration, Hygiene and Convenience ..... 85 Maintaining Fresh Chicken Demand: A Situated Ethical Practice ....................................................... 88 Conclusion ............................................................................................................................................. 93 Chapter Four: The Narrative and Material Practice of Islam as a Lived Tradition in Two Muslim Restaurants ....................................................................................... 96 Producing ‘Muslim Food’ in Mumbai: Taj Mahal and Bukhara Restaurants ...................................... 98 Bukhara Restaurant: The Journey of Hajji Sahib ................................................................................ 100 Taj Mahal: Success, Simplicity and Fame ........................................................................................... 108 Arshad Bhai on Pride and Innovation ............................................................................................. 113 Conclusion ........................................................................................................................................... 117 Chapter Five: Performing Sacrifice: Aesthetics, Price and Care in the Practice of Qurbani ............................................................................................................... 122 The Symbolic and Ethical Value of Sacrifice ....................................................................................... 124 Qurbani as Sacrifice in Mumbai: A Lived Tradition ............................................................................ 128 An Etymology of Qurbani: Cultivating Love in the Pursuit of ‘Closeness’ ......................................... 134 Finding the Perfect Goat: Time, Beauty and Budget ......................................................................... 137 Children: Practices of Care and the Pedagogy of Sacrifice ................................................................ 140 Sacrifice: Companionship, Love and Loss ........................................................................................... 143 The Slaughter: Total Surrender ...................................................................................................... 145 Conclusion ........................................................................................................................................... 147 Chapter Six: Fasting and Feasting during Ramadan in Mumbai ............................ 151 The Anthropology of Ramadan ........................................................................................................... 152 A Discursive Tradition of Ramadan .................................................................................................... 154 A Month of Great Blessing: Blessings of All Sorts .............................................................................. 155 Fasting .................................................................................................................................................. 158 Iftar: Practicing Generosity and Care ................................................................................................ 161 Prayer ................................................................................................................................................... 166 Shopping and Giving ........................................................................................................................... 169 ii 2A_BW proefschrift Shaheed Tayob[pr].job Chand Raat and Id ............................................................................................................................... 171 Conclusion ........................................................................................................................................... 173 Chapter Seven: Conclusion .................................................................................. 176 The Complexity of Niyat (intention) for Islam as a Lived Tradition ................................................... 178 Lived Tradition as a Methodology ...................................................................................................... 180 Muslim Food Practice in Mumbai ....................................................................................................... 182 Future Research Direction .................................................................................................................. 184 References .......................................................................................................... 186 iii 2B_BW proefschrift Shaheed Tayob[pr].job ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS The past five years have been filled with new challenges and adventures. A great appreciation is due to my parents who were supportive in my endeavor to leave the corporate environment and pursue graduate studies. Aware of
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