SUMMER/FIFI 2008 A Fragrance Foundation Publication

® BLOOMINGDALE'S: FIFI 2008 UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL AND OH, “Making things special and bigger than life… creating excitement by differentiating ourselves WHAT A from everybody else… by doing things that are just so unique and fun. It’s a cachet we have. We connect with our customer in a special way and, as a company, we do a really great job of presenting the NIGHT best, the latest, the newest and the greatest,” Zac Posen, Bernadette Peters

The "Magic of Bloomingdale’s", as defined by Steeped in “Tunes-of-Glory” history, its century-old Drill Room sheltered under a Howard Kreitzman, the store’s Vice President for Cosmetics and Fragrances. A veteran re- vaulted roof soaring 80 feet above, New York’s Seventh Regiment Armory set a tailer of warmth, charm and candor (not to majestic backdrop for the 36th annual Fragrance Foundation FiFi® Awards gala. mention a delicious sense of humor), swarm of photographers and reporters of saffron jersey, and Taylor Momsen, aka “Gossip Kreitzman sat A jockeyed for front row spots as celebrity Girl”, in a filmy dress of the palest possible green, its down with The presenters and guests took their star turns on the red skirt a froth of wispy shreds, like tattered ferns. Forum to share his carpet, a scarlet horseshoe that provided easy access Carmindy, of “What Not To Wear” (who had just thoughts on the job for photo ops and sound bites. Simply radiant with signed with Coty ) and who most decidedly knows a he loves, his per- glitz and glamour was “Hairspray” star Nikki thing or two about what to wear – was ravishing in spective on the fra- Blonsky, sporting pear-shaped ear drops of midnight navy with a lavishly jeweled neckline - took grance industry “diamonds as big as the Ritz.” Admittedly “a to the carpet with Coty’s Michael Fishoff. and winning the perfume addict,” Blonsky was redolent of Vera All the buzz you’d expect heralded the arrival race for the fragrance industry’s “Oscar”… the Wang’s “Princess” worn in honor of the evening’s of “Desperate Housewives” Dana Delany, looking 2008 FiFi Award for Retailer of The Year. Hall of Fame honoree. Then there were Tova anything but desperate in a new-that-day haircut, Borgnine with husband, Ernest, so well remembered and the deliciously copper-headed Bernadette Peters Howard, tell us about the strategies that con- for his Oscar-winning role as “Marty”; Matthew on the arm of Zac Posen. (More about them later.) tributed to Bloomingdale’s win. Modine; top chef of “Top Chef,” Padma Lakshmi The awards ceremony kicked off as Blonsky I would say that really what it’s all about, first and in the most artfully draped, one shouldered number referenced the winners in the Editorial Excellence foremost, is that my team has done a really out- Continued on page 2 standing job in developing strong relationships in the market. The other piece of the puzzle is that ® not only do we have a long history in fragrance FIFI Tests Social launches, but also the ability to come up with vi- sualizations like nobody else. It is just amazing to Networking Waters me how our visual team keeps evolving and out- By Doug Bender doing itself. We just did the exclusive launch for Estée Lauder’s Sensuous, and I was so proud of he Fragrance Foundation decided to test the those guys. It’s incredible the stuff they come up Tsocial networking waters this year, offering with, and they hardly ever show me in advance. fragrance fans on Facebook, Iqons*, and MySpace ® They want me to walk in on a Friday morning, an insider’s view of The 36th Annual FiFi Awards & Celebration, and with it, an opportunity to help after they’ve been up all night putting it together, ® ® FIFI page on MySpace and just gasp…which happens every Friday choose FiFi Fragrance Stars of the Year. One in associated with traditional media, social networking morning. Our ability to make something bigger four Internet users frequent social networking websites, according to the Consumer Internet is a temptation that has many brands debating how Continued on page 5 Barometer. Operating at a fraction of the cost Continued on page 7

ALSO IN THIS ISSUE: INTERNATIONAL FIFI COVERAGE • A COMPARISON: AROMATHERAPY, NATURAL PERFUME AND SYNTHETIC PERFUME • FORWARD PULSE: THE TWEEN MARKET • ON THE NOSE • FOUNDATION NOTES: NEWS, VIEWS & NEW DIRECTIONS FiFi 2008 Gala, Continued from page 1 Men’s Private Label/Direct Sell to Christian guests repaired to and Technological Breakthrough categories, Lacroix Rouge and Derek Jeter Driven Black, the lounges for which had been announced earlier at the FiFi both Avon Products, Inc. cocktails, dinner, Finalists Breakfast, and introduced Hip-hopster group, Danity Kane, hip- industry news and Bloomingdale’s Michael Gould, who stepped up hopped to the stage to present Bath and Body, gossip and to accept the Retailer of the Year award. congratulations all Brought to the stage, at that point, was around. Nicole Doring of Sephora Shadyside, The night Pittsburgh, PA, who, having scored 97% on the had a thousand exam, was applauded as the top scorer of the eyes, all on FiFi. k 2008 Certification exam. Taylor Momsen Presenting the awards for best advertising campaigns was Alison Hannigan (more usually ® seen on “How I Met Your Mother”) with FIFI Finalists Breakfast trophies going to Kelly Calèche, Hermès, for Flooded with sunlight, print, and Coco Mademoiselle, Chanel, for TV. Sean Avery, celebrated skatester of the sunflowers and New York Rangers, there to present the Hall of sunny smiles Fame Award, gave rise to a chuckle confiding that he and honoree, Vera Wang, share “a love ith the grand ballroom of New York’s of ice skating Carmindy and a passion WMandarin Oriental Hotel filled to ca- for fashion.” taken by Origins Organics, Origins Natural pacity, Rochelle Bloom, president of The Inspired, she Resources, and Interior Scent of the Year, Fragrance Foundation, gratefully – and so said, by her claimed by Gump’s San Francisco Home graciously – acknowledged all the event mother’s love Collection, Latitudes International. sponsors for their support, in particular, CPC of fragrance, In an announcement that garnered Packaging Magazine for the brochure, “A Look Wang accepted heartfelt cheers and a rolling crescendo of at Outstanding Packaging” and Cosmetic her FiFi, applause, the prestigious Fragrance Hall of World and Beauty Fashion for the “2008 FiFi remarking that Fame FiFi went to Annick Goutal Eau Voters Guide.” Singled out for special recog- “nothing is d’Hadrien, Gary Farn Ltd., the award nition was Media Sponsor, Condé Nast more personal presented by Bernadette Peters (scheduled for Bridal Media, for stepping up again, as they than how we an encore presentation later in the evening). have year after year, in support of the event, choose to Taylor Momsen, in tandem with Matthew with Bloom continuing on to mention that Dana Delany present Modine, stepped up to do the honors for Men’s the flowers – gleaming silver bowls massed ourselves…and scent is the most intimate way and Women’s Nouveau Niche, secured, with white hydrangeas and the yellowest pos- we have to seduce, cajole and intrigue.” respectively, by Armani Privé Vetiver Babylone, sible, plate sized sunflowers – would be Next up, awards for Best Packaging Giorgio Armani Beauty and Prada Infusion “scent” to patients at St. Luke’s-Roo- presented by Minka Kelly of “Friday Night d’Iris, Puig Beauty & Fashion Group. sevelt Hospital. She also referenced Lights” who handed trophies to Marc Jacobs Finally, for the coveted and much- the tiny cards standing at each Daisy, Coty Prestige, and Attitude by Giorgio trumpeted Fragrance of the Year awards, Ms. place, noting that the little papers, Armani, Giorgio Armani Parfums, for Women’s Peters returned to the stage arm-in-arm with embedded with flower seeds, and Men’s Prestige, and to Christian Lacroix “guru of fashion,” Zac Posen. Soon to launch would, when planted, watered Rouge, Avon Products, Inc., and Intimately an eponymous fragrance, Posen declined to and set in the sun, bloom into a Beckham Men, Coty, for Women’s and Men’s give details except to say that it’s an “edgy small arrangement of flowers. Popular Appeal. Designer Cynthia Rowley floral,” and, in sync with Ms. P., announced Katherine Rizzuto, expert joined Dana Delany to present Women’s and Daisy Marc Jacobs, Coty Prestige, as the winner on all things bridal, and publisher in the Women’s Luxe category. of Brides magazine, pressed the au- In a charming moment of humor and dience to act on the considerable, wit, Don Loftus held up the FiFi for the winner fragrance and beauty selling opportu- in the Men’s Luxe category, Dolce & Gabbana nities to be found in the upcoming wed- Light Blue Pour Homme, P&G Prestige ding season. Products Inc., saying “it’s nice to win a Coty Lauren Glassberg, WABC’s star re- Award,” a good-natured reference to the big porter on beauty, food and fashion, notably winners of the evening. “Neighborhood Eats,” took the podium to In her warm and gracious closing, emcee the ceremony and noted that fra- Rochelle Bloom thanked The Fragrance grance has a way with me…and thanks to Foundation Board of Directors, her staff, you, I smell pretty darn good,” and went on supporters and especially the “deluxe” to reveal that even her dog, aptly named sponsors - Coty, Firmenich, Givaudan, IFF and “Coco,” gets in on the act. Symrise - who make the FiFi Awards, the The anticipation nearly palpable, the “Oscars” of the fragrance industry, the magical eight nominees for the Fragrance Hall of event that it is. Fame award, along with the top contenders Vera Wang The evening moved into party mode as for Fragrance of The Year in all categories,

2 • Fragrance Forum blends with an aesthetic goal: the creation of beauty. beauty, and expense of the ingredients, and so the A Comparison: Natural perfume and aromatherapy share the use of consumer needs to understand that they will pay Aromatherapy, pure and natural essences as primary ingredients, more for less perfume. The perfume consumer who whereas synthetic perfume is mainly – if not totally – is used to large bottles and “gifts with purchase” will Natural Perfume and created from synthetic fragrance. In short, natural experience this as a paradigm shift. It is a return to Synthetic Perfume perfume shares the ingredients of aromatherapy and valuing exclusive and precious materials, and the lux- the aesthetic ends of synthetic perfume. urious sensuality that comes from including them in – Mandy Aftel, Perfumer One major characteristic of a natural perfume your life. that distinguishes it from a synthetic is that the scent Some people will value the modernity of man- onsumers feel confused about the lasts on the skin for a much shorter time. Natural made aromas — molecules that are impossible to find C difference between fragrances for perfumes have an arc on the body; lasting for only in nature. Others will value natural perfume’s aromatherapy, natural perfume, and synthetic about two hours, their scent is constantly evolving on essences from exotic plants that have been used cer- perfume. Because of the popularity of the skin. In comparison, the odor of a synthetic per- emonially around the globe, like the age-old essences aromatherapy, many people think that any fume oftentimes remains the same throughout its du- of aromatherapy. One can revel in the knowledge product that is fragranced with essential oils must ration on the skin and lasts an entire that boronia, smelling like a cross be- be a natural perfume. However, perfumes day or longer. Consumers who are in- tween freesias and raspberries, comes exclusively created with natural essences are terested in a perfume that will last all from Tasmania. They can enjoy the actually a new offering in the marketplace. day and can be smelled and recognized poetry in knowing that choya nakh Natural perfume is particularly enigmatic and by people across the table from them at comes from seashells roasted in India. differs considerably from aromatherapy and dinner should be directed towards syn- Interestingly, some scents that can be synthetic perfumery. Aromatherapy and thetic perfumes. Natural perfume will reproduced synthetically cannot be synthetic perfumery are on opposite ends of a never do this. made into natural essences, such as spectrum, with natural perfume in the middle Natural perfumes are intimately apple, peach, and plum. sharing major aspects with both. The unique connected with the body and people The landscape for perfume con- aesthetic qualities of each makes a huge who are close to you. They do not broadcast their sumers has changed dramatically with the popularity difference for one’s experience, and presence, and someone needs to be very close to be of perfume blogs and “green” consumerism. People understanding this can greatly enrich one’s able to smell them. This intimacy can be very se- are much more interested in what they are putting relationship with aroma. ductive. The fragrance’s quicker disappearance and on their body and where comes from. With knowl- Aromatherapy blends are usually simple and the reapplication can be experienced as a sensual ritual. edge comes the power to choose the scent that best focus on a given therapeutic goal, while both nat- Another difference between natural and syn- expresses your aromatic desires. When purchasing a ural and synthetic perfumes are complicated thetic perfume is that the natural one will usually fragrance, one can consider purpose, longevity on the come in a much smaller bottle with a much larger skin, aesthetics, ingredients, and the cultural and his- price tag. Natural perfume emphasizes the rarity, torical stories behind it.k were announced, each finalist ac- cepting a miniature, crystal COMPARATIVE FiFi Award. (For a list of CATEGORIES AROMATHERAPY NATURAL PERFUME SYNTHETIC PERFUME finalists and winners, PRIMARY CONCERN therapeutic aesthetic with aesthetic visit www.fragrance.org). therapeutic benefits Actually pre- sented at the break- AESTHETIC AIMS simple create beauty create beauty fast were five FiFi Awards: for Edito- INGREDIENT SOURCES essential oils essential oils, concretes mainly, if not totally, and absolutes synthetic fragrance rial Excellence in Fragrance Coverage, TYPICAL NUMBER Allure took the award OF ESSENCES around 5 9 to 30 over 50 for Women’s Scent Marie STRUCTURE not a consideration designed around volatility can manipulate Feature, with of top, middle & base notes structure Claire winning for Women’s Scent Bite, while DRYDOWN ON SKIN not a consideration evolves with body chemistry synthetic Best Life and Elle tied in the race for Men’s Coverage. The technological DURATION ON SKIN not a consideration couple of hours day or more breakthrough of the year went to Estée Lauder for Certified Organic Preserva- DURATION IN BOTTLE some carrier oils go bad ripens with age in alcohol can go bad tion. Bloomingdale’s shone as Retailer of COMPOSITION intricate orchestration of intricate orchestration of mixture of single-aroma The Year. elements and trace elements elements and trace elements chemicals The morning ended with much ap- plause, congratulations on all fronts, guests HISTORY over 4000 years over 4000 years 100 years heading for the elevators toting sunny yel- low shoppers filled with samples of the LINEAGE linked to nature, linked to nature, linked to developments nominated fragrances; a first this year and alchemy and ritual alchemy and ritual in chemistry an absolutely de-lovely treat, much appre- COST essential oils are less most expensive and most perfume chemicals ciated by all.k expensive than absolutes luxurious are not expensive

© Aftelier Perfumes Fragrance Forum • 3 International Fragrance Public Award Lifestyle Men Pure Man - Bruno Banani Duftstar Personality Vera Wang Foundation Awards Duftstar Lifework Laura Biagiotti Best Packaging of the Year for Women’s Fragrance ITALY FRANCE Amethyst - Lalique Best Packaging of the Year for Men’s Fragrance Narciso Rodriguez for Him – Narciso Rodriguez Best Advertising of the Year for Women’s Fragrance Fuel for Life pour Elle – Diesel Best Advertising of the Year for Men’s Fragrance Fuel for Life pour Lui – Diesel Marie Claire Editors Award Vivara – Emilio Pucci GERMANY

L to R Daniela Andrier/ Givaudan; François-Xavier Billaud/ Puig pour Prada & Jean-Paul Lubot / Marie Claire Jean-Bapiste Grosdidier, Puig Giovanna Usvardi, P&G Prestige Italia accepts award for Best Products accepts award for Best Female Fragrance, Prada In- Male Fragrance, Dolce & Gabbana fusion d'Iris Light Blue pour Homme

In Italy, the FiFi® Awards were conducted under the auspices of The Accademia del Profumo’s 19th International Award held on April 11th. The evening’s theme “What do we want? The Moon!” recognized the achievements of those who dared to “dream the impossible dream.” Duftstar 2008 Finale At the entrance to the evening’s festivities, ded- The Fragrance Foundation Deutschland hosted icated to the earth’s satellite, guests were greeted by L to R Phillipe Ughetto/Arcade Europe; Alexia Chaland/BPI; its glamorous 16th annual German Fragrance Award, an enormous, pale blue moon, it’s great moon-face Francis Kurkdjian/ Takasago & Sylvie Polette/BPI the Duftstars at The Station in Berlin on April 26th. smiling above the crowd. The Grand Prix du Parfum Awards – now a The impressive industrial architecture of the former As the Master of Ceremonies announced the marquee event in the French fragrance industry – post-station exceeded the expectations of the 1,500 winners of the prestigious FiFi Awards, the honorees took place on April 3rd at the prestigious Hotel Po- guests from the fragrance industry, film industry and took to the stage to claim their coveted trophies. tocki and was attended by nearly 600 industry mem- leading publishing companies. bers. As in the past the event was organized in The Duftstars 2008 were given to the best per- 2008 Winners of the FiFi Italy fumes of the categories “Exclusive,” “Prestige,” partnership with the Marie Claire publishing group. Best Female Fragrance Prada Infusion d’Iris – Puig “Lifestyle,” and “Classic” as well as the favorites of Isabelle Giordano, author and French television per- Best Male Fragrance Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue the “Public Award,” which is selected by consumers. sonality, hosted the award ceremony. pour Homme – P & G Prestige Products The awards recognized the top fragrances in- Elizabeth Hurley, Wolfgang Joop, the Italian ambas- troduced in France in 2007, which were selected sador Antonio Puri Purina and Verona Pooth pre- using anonymous ballots cast by industry members sented some of the coveted prizes. UNITED KINGDOM along with a panel of retailers and journalists. This year changes were made to better align Winners of the the awards with market trends, so categories are now DUFTSTAR 2OO8 include: segmented according to distribution channel and a Classic Women 24, Faubourg - Hermès Parfums new category was added for fragrances distributed Classic Men Vetiver, Guerlain under a retailer brand. Exclusive Women Private Blend - Tom Ford Beauty 2008 Winners of the Grand Exclusive Men Virgin Island Water - Creed Prestige Women Prada Infusion d’Iris - Puig Prix du Parfum include: Prestige Men Fuel for Life - Diesel Best Women’s Fragrance in Selective Distribution Lifestyle Women Christina Aguilera – P & G Prestige Prada Infusion d’Iris - Puig Products Best Men’s Fragrance in Selective Distribution Lifestyle Men Intimately Beckham Night Men - David Liz Garrett (center), Managing Director, Coty Prestige, receives the Fleur du Mâle – Jean Paul Gaultier Beckham Best New Prestige Female Fragrance Award for "Daisy" by Marc Jacobs from Jo Elvin, editor, Glamour Magazine & Fashion De- Best Women’s Fragrance in Limited Distribution Public Award Prestige Women Diamonds - Emporio signer, Henry Holland. Daisy – Marc Jacobs Armani Best Men’s Fragrance in Limited Distribution Public Award Prestige Men Fleur de Male - Jean Paul The Fragrance Foundation UK honored its FiFi Narciso Rodriguez for Him – Narciso Rodriguez Gaultier winners at the 16th Annual Fragrance Foundation Best Fragrance of the Year in Exclusive Distribution Public Award Awards Gala Dinner held on April 23rd, 2008 at The Collection Les Exclusifs de Chanel Lifestyle Women Dorchester in London. TV presenter and ‘Strictly Best Fragrance of the Year under Retailer Brand Christina Aguilera – Come Dancing’ star, Gethin Jones hosted the event Collection Notre Flore – L’Occitane P & G Prestige Products which was a benefit for the Teenage Cancer Trust.

4 • Fragrance Forum Elizabeth Hurley really incredible. Take the Sensuous launch for ex- a gift – is competing with so many other alterna- ample. The Lauder buyer was here this morning, tives. Putting aside the state of the economy…OK, showing me a “lounge” which works this way. We maybe it’s a fragrance or maybe it’s an iPod, or this or sent out an e-mail. When you click on it, it takes you that…there are just so many options out there. It’s to a web site where the four Sensuous spokesmod- more challenging for all of us. Looking at it from the els are talking about what the word Sensuous consumer’s perspective, she could live her whole life means to them. Then, of course, you can click without ever wearing a fragrance and her life would- through to our web site to buy the product. While we n’t change. But when it comes to beauty, it’s a differ- still think that ROP is still the best way to get the ent story. We sell a lot of stuff that, when she puts it message out and established, we are moving down on her face, it changes her life. And, of course, that the path toward all kinds of media. We’ve done a side of the business has been very, very strong; some

Angela Rowley (center), General Manager Estée Lauder & Tom Ford good bit of e-mail blast and other internet type of it driven by business expansion and some of it by Beauty receives the Best New Prestige Male Fragrance Award for things. (With details still under wraps, Kreitzman technology, particularly in the treatment side of the Tom Ford for Men from international rugby sensation, Danny Cipriani and actress Miranda Raison from BBC's hit series, "Spooks." hinted at lots of exciting things to come.) So, to an- business. We’re seeing products that are much more swer the question, yes, they (fragrance launches) efficacious than anything we’ve seen in the past, and The 2008 FiFi UK Awards absolutely bring people into the store. Yes, we do I think that’s great. It helps our business and I think Winners are: more business because of them. A critical core part America looks great because of it. Best New Prestige Female Fragrance of our beauty business at Bloomingdale’s is events It would appear that consumers are becoming ever Daisy, Marc Jacobs and you know what? There’s nothing better or more more knowledgeable about products (in this case, Best New Prestige Male Fragrance Tom Ford for exciting than the kind of event we stage for a launch. fragrance) and that in order to satisfy them, they Men, Tom Ford Beauty In fact, the four spokesmodels for Sensuous will ac- must be heard. Does Bloomingdale’s “listen” and Best New Fragrance in Limited Distribution for tually be doing a personal appearance here…all four what would be an example of something the store Women Gucci, Gucci at the same time – so we expect quite a crowd. It’s has done based on what it hears from customers? Best New Fragrance in Limited Distribution for Men that kind of thing that brings people into the store White Jasmine & Mint Cologne, Jo Malone and makes it fun for everybody. Gosh, we sure try, in a variety of different ways. As Men’s Health Readers’ Award Fuel for Life, Diesel part of our strategy, we do regular surveys of our cus- Where is the core business…women buying fra- The Murray Pearce Award for Innovation Cyclodex- tomers to understand what they want and expect of grance for themselves or has fragrance become a trin Longevity, Proctor & Gamble Bloomingdale’s. A set of surveys done 5 years ago mainly gift-giving purchase? The Perfume Shop ‘People’s Choice’ Award for Celebrity helped us to embark on the strategy of moving more Fragrance Christina Aguilera, Christina Aguilera We all know that the weight of the business at Christ- upscale; changing the appearance of the store, re- The Perfume Shop ‘People’s Choice” Award for Men mas is so disproportionate to everything else, which ducing signage and upgrading the quality of what we 212 Sexy Men, Carolina Herrera tells me that there’s an awful lot of gift giving going offer and quality of service. In addition, every store is The Perfume Shop ‘People’s Choice” Award for on. Having said that, our business at holiday time… graded on a Customer Response letter which ques- Women Diamonds, Emporio Armani Christmas, Mother’s Day, Father’s Day and Valen- tions customers about their experience. The scores Best New Home Fragrance Mistress, Jasper Conran tine’s Day…has gotten progressively more challeng- are taken very seriously. They are published and are Best New Male Fragrance Packaging Canali Black ing. Maybe it’s because there are so many ways to a part of a general manager’s review. I can tell you Diamond, Canali shop without ever having to go to a store. Or perhaps that the merchandise quotes are seen by every mer- Best New Female Fragrance Packaging Rock N’ it’s because fragrances may have lost some of their chant, and the responses range from ‘You never have Rose Couture, Valentino cachet as a gift. Let me put it this way: it used to be a enough in my size in dresses’ to great stories about Special Commendation for Advertising Excellence lot easier to do a lot of business at gift-giving periods. service to ‘why don’t you folks carry x, y and z.’ It is Le Male, Jean Paul Gaultier Now we, as retailers, have to work a lot harder to get part of the company culture to listen to the customer, Best New Fragrance Commercial Light Blue Pour that sale. and our experience tells us that people are really in- Homme – Dolce & Gabbana terested, and they appreciate being listened to and What, in your view, are the challenges facing the Best New Male Fragrance Print Advertisement heard. You can never stop being vigilant. fragrance industry and how is Bloomingdale’s deal- Tom Ford for Men, Tom Ford Beauty ing with them? Does Bloomingdale’s participate in The Fragrance Best New Female Fragrance Print Advertisement Foundation Certified Fragrance Sales Specialist Daisy, Marc Jacobs k If you look at the NPD, the prestige fragrance chan- program and, if so, does it contribute to the busi- nel has been between $2.9 and $3 billion for at least ness? Bloomingdale's: Up Close, Cont. from page 1 the last 10 or 15 years, with no growth. I think that’s the single biggest challenge, and it affects the whole We do participate, but, to be perfectly honest, we are than life is certainly one of the major factors con- industry. We’re in a no-growth zone, and in many not where we’d like to be on that. We do believe in it, tributing to it all. It makes for good relationships in cases, what we’re doing is trading dollars. For us, at by all means, and it’s a subject up for discussion now. the market, and we really value our partners. Bloomingdale’s, the thing is to capture market share What do you see as the most important role The In your experience, do the big fragrance launches by creating excitement in the store either through Fragrance Foundation plays? have the cachet they used to; do they drive consumers launches or activities. As I look at our business over to the counter and generate significant sales? the past few years, if you didn’t know our launch cal- It’s important to have an organization that’s really and endar, you’d be able to figure it out pretty quickly from truly a source of information and a neutral observer There’s no doubt in my mind that, properly done, the peaks and valleys of the business. Two years ago, of our business. I think the opportunity to have a with all the elements in place, they do. And it’s for example, we had the exclusive launch of Juicy forum where the brands can discuss common prob- not just simply what we do in the store. We can’t and it was absolutely spectacular and then, last year, lems is very important. Some of the things they do ever lose sight of the fact that the product has to we didn’t have a lot of newness, and it was a chal- that are more consumer-spun really help, and I’d love be right…from the juice to the packaging to the lenging year. The cyclical nature of things – I guess to see them do more of that; to be more of a resource marketing our partners do on their own to what you’d call it feast or famine –makes it tough. And I on the consumer side. we do together. None of it works in a vacuum. think that fragrance – either as a self purchase or as When all the elements are properly aligned, it’s Continued on page 7

Fragrance Forum • 5 foundation notes: news, views & new directions

FUNDRAISING FOR This summer we will also see the launch of a dent. Ms. Lapsansky has been a key member of new and updated Fragrance Foundation website. For the organization for the past 19 years and is cred- ASSOCIATE BOARD starters the site will introduce the Foundation’s new ited with spearheading international licensing and EDUCATION PROGRAM logo that was revamped to give it a modern look. the Certified Fragrance Sales Specialist and Ad- Likewise, the website has been redesigned to vanced Certification programs among many other REACHES 57% OF GOAL bring it more in tune with the times. The site gives initiatives. The Associate Board’s Edu- a current, up-to-date profile of the organization Lilia Nicoletti has been named Director of cation Committee is pleased and its many activities, seminars, special events and Office Operations and Finance. Ms. Nicoletti has to report that they have publications. It also provides the latest fragrance been with the Foundation for over 7 years and has raised sufficient funds to $150,000 information for the press, students and fragrance played a strong role in successfully managing the kick-start their program for $140,000 aficionados. day to day operations of the office and has elementary school stu- $130,000 One of the exciting new features is a “job worked closely with the accounting firm to dents. International $120,000 bank,” showcasing management level fragrance monitor the organization’s finances. k $100,000 Flavors & Fra- positions. The job bank is available to members of $90,000 grances, IFRA and P the Foundation only. Detailed information will be & G Prestige Products $80,000 FRAGRANCE FOUNDATION $70,000 sent to all Foundation members. Another new fea- have each pledged $25,000 $60,000 ture will focus on interviews with perfumers that CALIFORNIA SATELLITE to support this important $50,000 will highlight a different perfumer each month. In- public outreach program de- WELCOMES NEW MEMBERS $40,000 terviews will then be archived and available to The recently launched California Satellite of signed to raise the level of $30,000 k users on an ongoing basis. The Fragrance Foundation is pleased to welcome awareness of fragrance and $20,000 five new members: the sense of smell in American $10,000 • Cosmetix West school children. Combined $0 ENTRY LEVEL • Harris Fragrances/Scent Events with additional funds from • Intelligent Beauty The Fragrance Foundation and a portion of the FRAGRANCE (E.L.F.) • Through Smoke Creative proceeds from Associate Board Events, the total COURSE UPDATE • Pacifica, Inc. funds raised to date have reached the $86,800 The Fragrance Foundation’s Entry Level Fra- The purpose of the California Satellite is to mark. In addition, International Flavors and Fra- grance (E.L.F.) course that was introduced last year provide the growing number of West Coast fra- grances will supply the essential oils for the Scratch to train holiday/temporary or part-time retail sales grance companies with an accessible menu of pro- ‘n Sniff stickers that will be included in the packets associates has some changes for 2008. For starters, grams and services similar to those available to and Arcade Marketing, Inc. will provide the stickers the program will now be called “Fragrance 101.” companies on the East Coast. The first West Coast at a greatly reduced cost. The course which was initially designed as a quick event will be scheduled for this fall. k The funds raised so far will allow the pro- training course for part-time holiday help who were gram to start with a mailing to 5,000 elementary new to the fragrance category was available only in school teachers across the U.S. this fall. As addi- the fall. The new “Fragrance 101” course, which NEW HOME FOR THE tional funds are raised a second mailing will be was graciously underwritten by P & G Prestige FRAGRANCE FOUNDATION made to an additional 5,000 teachers and a dedi- Products, Inc. , will be offered year-round begin- The Fragrance Foundation moved its head- cated website will be developed to support the ed- ning September 1, 2008. quarters effective June 25th. Despite some early set- ucation program on an ongoing basis. Foundation Vice President, Mary Ellen Lap- backs with internet and phone connections for the There are four levels of sponsorship with sansky, notes that “‘Fragrance 101’ is a valuable tool first few weeks, we’re up and running. We apologize corresponding benefits for each level; ranging from to help the sales associate engage the consumer in for any calls or e-mails we may have failed to re- the Basic Sponsor level at $15,000 up to the Offi- a professional and knowledgeable manner.” There spond to while we were sorting out our communi- cial Sponsor level of $100,000. In-kind sponsor- are three pieces to the course which is available at cation problems. Phone, fax and e-mail addresses ships may be available as well. For details about a budget-conscious $50 (per person) registration fee remain the same. Our new mailing address is: sponsorship or to make a pledge, please contact for groups or $60 for individuals: Terry Molnar at [email protected] k • Study Content which is available online The Fragrance Foundation • A short 20 question multiple choice online test 545 Fifth Avenue, Suite 900 • A Certificate which will “pop up” after a pass New York, NY 10017 NEW FRAGRANCE ing score is earned by the associate. FOUNDATION LOGO & For additional information or to register for the course go to www.fragrance.org or contact WEBSITE LAUNCHED Turnip Digital at 877.654.533 or info@fra- CORRECTION: k grancetraining.com ASSOCIATE BOARD We accidentally omitted one of our valuable FRAGRANCE FOUNDATION Associate Board Members in the list that was pub- TEAM PROMOTIONS lished in the Spring 2008 issue of the Forum. Christophe Laudamiel, Senior Perfumer, Fine Mary Ellen Fragrance at IFF has been with the group since its Lapsansky, executive inception and has volunteered to stay on the Board director of The Fra- to continue his work on the Education Program grance Foundation has which he spearheaded. k been promoted to the position of vice presi-

6 • Fragrance Forum Mary Ellen Lapsansky Bloomingdales: Close Up, Cont. from page 5 And finally, what drew you to a career in retail and FORWARD PULSE, what do you love about it? Why did I go into retail? ‘Because I didn’t get into law Notes from the Associate Board school,’ he said, really laughing. (You see? About the humor?) I’ve been in the retail business my entire Tween Fragrance Connection – By Lisa Friedman career, and I’ve had the good fortune to touch many different categories…department store, specialty “Too old for toys, and too young for boys, I’m just in between.” —Judy Garland – “Love Finds Andy Hardy” store, luxury goods, duty free, entertainment-based retail and a number of other things. And I will tell you wenty million American tweens, eight to twelve years old, represent $51 billion in spending that, of all businesses, this is the most exciting, the power. With fickle tastes, tweens constantly search for ways to express their individuality. most interesting and the most challenging - and it all T They use branded merchandise to send ‘their’ message to the world. Tweens live in the moment, comes down to two pieces. First is the people we deal with; I think the people in the beauty industry but are impatient to be adults before they leave elementary school. are more passionate, more committed and smarter What makes tweens different from teens (age 13-18)? One key difference – parental than those in any other business I’ve known. And I supervision is a huge influence in their lives, much more than for teens. Parents control access to think, in beauty, we have a customer we can connect adult content from all media forms, including television, cell phone access, and the internet. with in a way not possible in any other business. Parents also provide transportation to desired destinations, including shopping venues, and can That’s why I enjoy it so much and, frankly, I feel priv- deny access to those they deem inappropriate. Tweens rely on friends’ opinions much more than ileged to work for an organization that has the rep- teens, and tweens constantly communicate with one another to share thoughts and experiences. utation it does, that allows us to do the things we do The most successful tween brands recognize these key influences and behaviors and incorporate and has the resources to bring it all to life. them into brand strategy, thus providing tweens with fun ways to make an individual statement within their ‘community’ of peers. The Fragrance Foundation congratulates Bloom- Stardoll.com, one of the most popular tween internet destinations, is a virtual entertainment ingdale’s on their 2008 Retailer of The Year FiFi experience that celebrates fashion and fantasy through virtual paper dolls. Tweens create ‘MeDolls' Award and is deeply grateful to Howard Kreitzman for giving us so much of his valuable time and for and outfit the virtual dolls with clothing and accessories purchased with ‘StarDollars’ from StarPlaza sharing his interesting and insightful perspectives.k Virtual Galleria. Stardoll.com counts over eight million unique visitors every month and boasts 18 million members worldwide. Cognizant that tween attention span is fleeting; Stardoll updates contents daily, often via mutually beneficial partnerships with brands. For example, Stardoll FIFI® Tests Soc. Net. Waters, Cont. from page 1 partnered with DKNY to set up a multilevel shop in StarPlaza that introduced virtual versions of DKNY‘s real world designs. DKNY thus introduced their brand message to a new generation of to factor it into their communications mix. Skeptics, however, point to a hardcore fashion enthusiasts and sold tens of thousands of virtual garments in just a few months. plateau in social network audiences, StarDoll.com recently announced a partnership with Sephora to launch a virtual beauty shop where and caution this type of consumer members can choose from a selection of lip, eye and face makeup for their MeDolls. According to involvement challenges brand control, Matt Palmer, EVP and GM of Stardoll Entertainment, the site succeeded because even though oftentimes citing horror stories of Stardoll users cannot feel the fabric or see the cosmetic color on their own skin, they still experience hostile consumer behavior. the brand in a highly personable, engaging and fun way when they see their selections on their Nonetheless, with over 100 million monthly active MeDolls. Palmer believes that this experience would benefit the fragrance arena exceptionally well, users including a large percentage of women and because so much of the brand identity of a fragrance is portrayed through its visual image. teens, social networking sites offer an audience The internet provides marketers with an interactive medium for reaching tweens all over the warranting a closer look. world through virtual community spaces. However, it is especially important for fragrance brands The Foundation sought to promote online to foster real-world communities as well, that bring tweens together to bond through scent. voting within fragrance, beauty, and fashion circles, Tweens are thirsty for knowledge that makes them look cooler to their friends. Fragrance brands while raising national awareness about the FiFi should seize the opportunity to teach kids how to incorporate scent into their everyday lives. One Awards. Online profiles were designed to give a thought is to take a hint from Oprah’s book club, and start clubs for tweens that meet in central behind-the-scenes glimpse of the FiFi Awards, with locations to discuss a ‘scent of the week.’ The idea benefits multiple parties – companies gain blog posts highlighting the latest awards news, recognition for different brand offerings; stores that host meetings see increased traffic from tweens pictures and videos of past ceremonies, and an area (and their moms); and tweens learn that fragrance is an essential means of self expression, and for friends to post feedback. A branded widget was an experience that they can share with their friends. then created as a takeaway, counting down the days Currently, The Fragrance Foundation Associate Board’s Education Committee is developing an to the event. This portable chunk of code functioned education program with interactive ‘scent kits’ for elementary schools that teach the basics of as a FiFi Awards mini-site, directing traffic back to the perfumery – notes, how to smell, etc. -- to young American children. The program uses scent as main profiles. Day-to-day maintenance unfolded like the medium for both education and fun, and we strive to make it a starting point for children to any good consumer relationship management strategy, addressing questions and concerns, while experience and learn to appreciate scent, so they develop into savvy scent consumers later in life. engaging friends with carefully targeted messaging. The youth beauty market in the US is currently estimated at $500m, with tweens developing an interest The number of votes cast from the profiles as well as in products as early as 9. Tweens are bombarded by messages from many directions – internet, the size of the network of “friends” determined the television, their parents and friends. The fragrance industry should make their products stand out by level of success. The result was a significant increase offering tweens a highly personable way to express their individuality. Fragrance serves as a fantastic in voter traffic and the development of a network of medium for community, as tweens join with their friends to talk about their favorite scents. Tweens over 5000 friends, which can serve as a foundation for and their parents can bond over the ‘scent experience’ of shopping, smelling, and sharing perfume future social networking initiatives. k selections. Fragrance can be the pathway to a tween’s heart, for any brand willing to navigate it.k

Fragrance Forum • 7 tions for me are “how did you become a ON THE NOSE perfumer” and “what’s it like to be a The Fragrance – By Christopher Brosius, Nose?” Perfumer The former is seemingly sim- Foundation ple but the truth leaves people unsatis- Calendar of Events Being fairly social, I get invited to fied. How did I become a perfumer? By SEPTEMBER a fair number of cocktail parties. accident? By chance? By twist of fate? These can be great fun or they can be That’s how it happened. I certainly did Monday, September 15th hell. This is the way cocktail parties not decide as a child that I wanted to The Politics of Change: Alternative Christopher Brosius, Strategies for the Future of Fragrance have always been and probably al- Perfumer make perfume yet here I am. ways will be. But there is a moment But what it’s really like to be a • In partnership with ESP Trendlab at every single one of them that I’ve come to dread. Nose is much more difficult to explain. Yes, I do have • Time-Life Building, New York City • 8:30 a.m. - Breakfast Someone will inevitably ask, “So what do you do?” an uncanny sense of smell and often notice things that • 9:00 a.m. - Presentation I automatically brace myself because I know other people don’t or can’t. And I can remember what’s coming. I answer as calmly as possible, “I odors from ages past and recreate them with bizarre OCTOBER am a perfumer” and suddenly the floodgates open. accuracy – I am told this is a very rare skill. I would- Tuesday, October 7th There is usually a moment of stunned silence and n’t know because that’s how it’s always been for me. Circle of Champions Dinner and Awards then, what had been a (hopefully) pleasant social But great olfactory acuity does not make a perfumer • St. Regis Hotel, 2 East 55th Street at occasion suddenly turns in to a much too lively any more than 20/20 vision makes for the next Pi- Fifth Avenue • 5:30 p.m. - Cocktail Reception game of 20 questions. Or 200 as I’ve generally casso. There’s a good deal more to it than that. • 7:00 p.m. - Dinner and Awards found the case to be… I am very, very lucky. I am a freak of nature, a Questions are fired at lightning pace and it’s Natural Born Nose. In addition to a very accurate Thursday, October 23rd often hard to keep up. Also, I find as I answer, one sense of smell, my brain is wired to record odor and Breaking Through The Clutter thing leads to another, more information is re- think about it in a different way. Mentally I can re- • Hearst Tower, 300 West 57th St. quired, crowds have been known to gather and member scents and rearrange them until I know what • 6:00 p.m. - Cocktail Reception suddenly I feel like I’m giving a lecture when what I want in the bottle – I can smell it already in my mind. • 7:00 p.m. - Presentation I really want to do is get on with my martini. Un- I think this is why I have always been able to blend NOVEMBER fortunately I’ve yet to find a polite way to keep this perfume even back at Kiehl’s when the available ma- Thursday, November 6th from happening and no matter how hard I try to terials were somewhat limited. My scents are not al- Think Tank Series: Portable Scents change the subject, someone will keep dragging it ways brilliant but they are well composed. And as • Location TBD back to perfume. And, I can’t quite bring myself to time goes by, my technique improves, the catalogue of • 8:30 a.m. - Breakfast simply lie and say, “I work for the smells in my brain expands, and I • 9:00 a.m. - Presentation IRS”. That ought to shut ‘em up. can create the scents I want with Tuesday, November 18th I understand this curiosity "...all perfumers, fewer experiments and the whole State of the Industry In Partnership is perfectly natural. Not many when working at their process becomes shorter. with Cosmetic World people outside the industry And it sounds strange to say, • The Metropolitan Club have met a perfumer before best, are artists." but making perfume requires Vi- • 1 East 60th St., New York City and very few have any idea sion. As with any other art it is • 11:30 a.m. - 2 p.m. - Cocktail Reception what it is we actually do. And I necessary to choose what to ex- & Luncheon suppose because my work and my history are so press and how to do it elegantly, intuitively and in- Wednesday, November 19th unusual, this inevitably leads to more things peo- stinctively. Art requires intention and that means Making Scents of Your Future ple want to know so they keep on asking. This “seeing” it in the first place. This is a talent that can’t Career Guidance Fair makes it very difficult to get another drink and vir- be taught. Baruch College Conference Center tually impossible to flirt with anyone attractive Yes, I experience the world in a particular way. • 9:00 a.m. – 3:00 p.m. – Invitation-only which is I think the real point of going to the cock- And I am able to translate that experience so that peo- event for NYC High School Students tail party in the first place. ple respond – often profoundly. This is the point of art Industry members discuss career It is sometimes difficult to get people to under- as far as I’m concerned; and, all perfumers, when opportunities in fragrance industry stand that perfumers actually design the scent that’s working at their best, are artists. We just work in a Editor Theresa Molnar in the bottle and not the bottle itself. This involves medium that is perfectly abstract. Of course we can Contributing Editor Wendy D’Amico some basic information and a short speech on the make the laundry smell better but we can also wring Design Darryl Brasseale, artmode art & science of perfumery which seems to leave the the heart or set it singing in ways that other arts can- Printed by U & I Graphics audience somewhat amazed. I still, after all these not. We can truly express what it means to be human. years, find it somewhat disheartening that what’s in That for me is the most magical aspect of the art that PH 212.924.2500 the bottle is so often taken for granted and so few is perfume and what it means to be a Nose. ever consider that someone actually has to make it. So I’ll continue to be patient at cocktail parties. I © Copyright 2008 by The Fragrance Foundation, Inc. Once we get that cleared up, the lecture can won’t mind the endless Q&A, or missing out on the All rights reserved. take several courses. I’m frequently asked to cover best hors d’oeuvres because I don’t have the chance to FRAGRANCE FORUM is published three times per year by The Fragrance Foundation, 545 Fifth Avenue, Suite such topics as Materials, Marketing, Product De- get at them. I won’t even mind not being able to meet 900 New York, NY 10017. Tel. (212) 725-2755. sign, Promotion, Business Management, Econom- the fascinating creature across the room because I can’t www.fragrance.org ics, History, Psychology or Comparative Fragrance get through the crowd of listeners or stem the flow of SUBSCRIPTIONS: Fragrance Foundation members Criticism. I’ve now developed some set stock an- questions. People need to know what it is we perfumers receive complimentary copies. A PDF version may be accessed and downloaded from The Fragrance swers to deal with these topics (since I deal with do all day and why we do it because it’s important. Foundation Website at www.fragrance.org. them on a fairly regular basis) but the hardest ques- k I would however like another drink… This issue of the Fragrance Forum has been printed on recycled paper.

8 • Fragrance Forum