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HALIFAX, NS

OVERVIEW

Introduction

Throughout its history, Halifax, Nova Scotia, has been defined by the Atlantic Ocean. Its blue-gray presence is visible from the city's glass high-rises, centuries-old buildings and surrounding hills. Being built around a huge natural harbor that's second size-wise only to the one in Sydney, Australia, Halifax boasts a vibrant port that has catered to both commercial and naval vessels for more than 260 years. The fact that it was recently awarded a Can$25-billion federal shipbuilding contract further underscores how Halifax's ocean access drives the provincial economy.

That same body of water also makes it an ideal tourist destination. The water offers ample recreational opportunities, and most major attractions—from the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic and the Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21 to the Halifax Citadel (which was originally built to defend against sea attacks)—reflect the role it has played in the city's evolution.

Whether you are strolling on the photogenic 0.6 mi/1 km harborfront boardwalk, which extends from Casino Nova Scotia to Marginal Road, or hiking in Point Pleasant Park and Sir Sandford Fleming Park, which face each other across the Northwest Arm, water is virtually everywhere—and foodies will marvel at the fresh seafood it yields. Nevertheless, there is more to Halifax than the ocean.

As the capital of Nova Scotia and the largest Canadian city east of Quebec, Halifax is a center for government, business and health care, which translates into a relatively affluent population. It is a center for higher education, too, with students from six universities injecting a decidedly youthful energy. When you combine those two demographics and factor in locals' famously friendly nature, it is easy to see why Halifax is also an entertainment hotspot, complete with a thriving arts community, an active music scene and nightlife options that few cities of its size can rival.

Sights—Step into the past at the Halifax Citadel; get a water view from the Bluenose II or a commuter ferry; see the city's many Titanic sights; indulge in Saturday morning people-watching at the Seaport Farmers Market.

Museums—Get your nautical fix at the Maritime Museum; peruse the poignant Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21; marvel over marine life at the Museum of Natural History; ogle the fanciful folk art at the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia.

Memorable Meals—Tuck into fish-and-chips at a boardwalk eatery; slurp back oysters at Five Fishermen; have a traditional lobster feast at the Shore Club in Hubbards; sample a specialty cheesecake at Sweet Hereafter.

Late Night—Savor a sunset harbor cruise; dance from one bar to another at The Dome; hear Maritime tunes played live at the Split Crow or Lower Deck; raise a glass of locally made lager just about anywhere.

Walks—Hike in leafy Point Pleasant Park; stop to smell the roses (and perhaps feed the ducks) in the Public Gardens; breathe in the salt air on the boardwalk; amble through the evocative Old Burying Ground.

Especially for Kids—Take a tour on Theodore Too; learn while you play at Discovery Centre; try out the Maritime Museum's marine- themed playground; browse for books at Woozles. Nova Scotia is almost an island, with Northumberland Strait and the Gulf of St. Lawrence to the north, the Atlantic Ocean to the south and east, and the Bay of Fundy (which has the world's highest recorded tides) to the west. The 17-mi-/27-km-wide Isthmus of Chignecto connects the province to the rest of Canada.

Halifax Harbour is on the southeast coast of Nova Scotia, opening into the Atlantic, and the city of Halifax spreads out along its shores. The downtown core sits on a peninsula in the harbor, with the other parts of the city farther inland and along the shores of the Bedford Basin. Directly across the harbor—and accessible via a pair of bridges, a ferry and a highway that rounds the Bedford Basin—is Dartmouth. It was Halifax's sister city until they amalgamated in 1996; however, most residents still refer to the two individually. Together they form the cornerstone of the Halifax Regional Municipality (HRM), Canada's 13th-largest metropolitan center.

Halifax's first known European visitor, French explorer Samuel de Champlain, noted the good fishing in its deep harbor in 1605, and for centuries before that the seminomadic Mi'kmaq (Native Americans who camped on the inlet now called the Northwest Arm) used it as a hunting ground. However, Halifax wasn't actually settled until its strategic importance became apparent in the mid-18th century.

By the time British commander Edward Cornwallis established a fortified garrison there in 1749, the French and English were locked in a bitter war over North America, and Halifax offered the British an important foothold on the continent. With a formidable hilltop Citadel in the town center and a battery of guns overlooking the harbor, it became one of the best-defended towns in North America. In 1759, a British expedition sailed from Halifax up the St. Lawrence River and captured Quebec City, thereby ending two centuries of war over the territories.

Halifax retained its military significance. During the American Revolution, the city served as a base for British forces; and afterward local privateers—essentially legalized pirates with the King's permission to capture assets of another country—raided U.S. shipping on the Atlantic seaboard. To this day it is home port for the Canadian Navy's Atlantic Fleet.

By the 1860s Halifax had become an economic engine, too. Its harbor, one of the British Empire's most significant seaports, was a vital point of transfer for raw materials from Canada's interior and manufactured goods arriving from around the world. Within the city, Princess Street became known as the "Wall Street of Canada" during the 1900s; two of the nation's major banks plus a host of provincial banks were born there.

The harbor also made Halifax a major immigration center. More than a million prospective citizens disembarked on Pier 21 between 1928 and 1971. This national historic landmark (Canada's equivalent to Ellis Island) is now an immigration museum filled with interactive exhibits.

There has been a tragic side to Halifax's maritime past, as well. In 1912, 150 victims of the Titanic were brought to the city to be buried in three local graveyards. And in 1917, as munitions ships gathered in the harbor before setting off on the perilous voyage to the war in Europe, a collision between two vessels (the French munitions ship Mont Blanc and the Norwegian Imo, carrying relief supplies for Belgium) resulted in the world's largest man-made explosion prior to the atomic era. More than 2,000 people were killed in the blast, 9,000 were injured and 20,000 were left homeless in the city's leveled North End.

Location

A day's sail from New York and Boston and a major access point to Europe, Halifax welcomes more than 240,000 passengers every year. The 120-plus ships it receives annually include vessels from major lines, all of which are greeted by the kilted bagpipers and drummers of the 78th Highlanders.

The cruise season runs April-October and most ships dock at Pavilion 22, a few blocks south of downtown, though some may dock just south at Pavilion 23 or north at Pavilion 20 when harbor traffic is heavy. Between them sits Pier 21: Once an immigration shed and now Canada's national immigration museum, it has engaging exhibits and a top-notch genealogical research center.

The cruise terminal itself contains restrooms, shops, pay phones and an information booth. Everything else you'll need to get started on your shore excursion is within a few minutes' stroll. Taxis line up at the cruise pier when ships are in port. If you don't find one there, walk a block inland to the Westin Nova Scotian Hotel, or to the taxi stand at the corner of South and Barrington streets. Taxi stands are marked by green-and-white Common Stand signs.

To reach the city's historic core on foot, follow Lower Water Street (the one closest to the harbor) about three blocks north from the terminal to the large stone Brewery Market or travel through the brightly colored arch that marks the beginning of the waterfront boardwalk.

Once on the boardwalk, passengers looking for further advice or exploring tips can drop into the provincial visitor information office at Sackville Landing, behind the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic (1655 Lower Water St., phone 902-424-4248). It is open daily year-round.

Typical city tours offer a historical perspective, allowing you to play "Soldier for a Day" at the Halifax Citadel or explore the city's many Titanic-related sites. Longer excursions might take in South Shore fishing communities such as iconic Peggy's Cove and Lunenburg (a UNESCO World Heritage site), or delve into the verdant Annapolis Valley, where fine local food and wine await. Active alternatives that focus on golfing, cycling, sea kayaking or even Tidal Bore rafting are also widely available. Shore excursions—and their prices—vary. Check with your ship's shore-excursion staff or your travel agent for additional information.

Cruisers who are determined to set off on their own won't have to go far to see the sights. Pier 21 and several small galleries are mere steps from the terminal. So is the Seaport Farmers Market, the north end of which marks the start of a harborfront boardwalk lined with shops, restaurants, museums and boat-tour operations. Most other major attractions are an easy walk away.

Potpourri

Each year Halifax sends a giant Christmas tree to Boston as a thank-you for Boston's relief efforts after a 1917 explosion claimed some 2,000 lives and flattened much of the North End.

The loud boom that rocks downtown daily comes from the Citadel's noon gun. You can set your watch by the shot that has been fired every day except Christmas for more than 260 years.

Haligonians (Halifax residents) have always been a well-read lot. Canada's first newspaper, periodical and book were printed there; it also established the country's first public library.

Halifax is a popular movie location, often standing in for New England. Stars, including Harrison Ford, Pierce Brosnan, Julianne Moore and hometown girl Ellen Page, have all been spotted there.

Native son and cruise pioneer Samuel Cunard managed the harbor ferry service before founding the famed Cunard Line in 1840. A statute of him by the Seaport Farmers Market still looks waterward.

Halifax is located in the Atlantic time zone.

SEE & DO

Sightseeing

The small-town charm of historic Halifax is best discovered on foot, especially since parking is scarce. Stop at the Citadel—watching the 78th Highlanders drill there and observing the ritual firing of the Noon Gun are both highly recommended. Also take time to stroll along Halifax's waterfront boardwalk. Beginning at Casino Nova Scotia, it winds southward through the Historic Properties (where pirates stored their booty), then past ships, restaurants, waterfront pubs and the fascinating Maritime Museum of the Atlantic. It ends steps from the Seaport Farmers Market, near the Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21.

As befits a capital city, Halifax has a good selection of other museums and galleries. The Art Gallery of Nova Scotia features Maritime folk art, and it often displays work by world-renowned artists on loan from other museums. To learn about local flora and fauna, pay a visit to the Nova Scotia Museum of Natural History where fossils, archaeological discoveries and cultural artifacts tell the province's story from the beginning of time. Other worthwhile sites include the Victorian-era Halifax Public Gardens and the cemeteries where victims of the Titanic were buried.

Halifax's tourist season generally runs from the Victoria Day weekend (the third weekend in May) to Canadian Thanksgiving (Columbus Day in the U.S.). The best time for sightseeing is June-September, when the weather is very pleasant. Most festivals happen during July and August. The best whale-watching is from mid-June to mid-September. If you're interested in seeing the autumn foliage, you might consider putting off your trip until the first two weeks in October. If you're a winter sports fan, though, December to mid-March is the time to go.

Casinos

There are two Casino Nova Scotia gaming facilities on Nova Scotia: one in downtown Halifax and the other in the town of Sydney, on Cape Breton. Canada's minimum gambling age is the same as its drinking age: 19. Children younger than 19 are not allowed on the casino floor. Adults who appear to be intoxicated may be denied entry, as well. All winnings are paid in Canadian currency. Casino Nova Scotia 1983 Upper Water St. The casino features gaming with a wraparound view of Halifax Harbour Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 3Y5 plus an abundance of slots (some award prizes of cars and motorcycles), roulette, blackjack and minibaccarat, as well as interesting Phone: 902-425-7777 dining options. Paradise Buffet is open for lunch and dinner, Trapeze http://www.casinonovascotia.com offers daily upscale dining with a spectacular waterfront view, and snacks and beverages are available from carts on the gaming floor. As in the casino, patrons must be age 19 or older. You can also catch emerging stars and oldies acts performing in the Schooner Showroom or the Harbourfront. Monday-Friday 10 am-4 am, Saturday and Sunday 24 hours. Free admission. 1983 Upper Water St., Halifax. Phone 902- 425-7777. Toll-free 888-642-6376. http://www.casinonovascotia.com.

Government House 1451 Barrington St. Sir John Wentworth was a cunning fellow. After serving as Royal Governor of New Hampshire, he lived in England during the American Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 1Z2 Revolution and became accustomed to the comforts of the country Phone: 902-424-1790 manor. So when he was offered the position of Lieutenant-Governor of http://lt.gov.ns.ca/government- Halifax, he made sure that his new home would be equipped in the house/the-story-of-government-house latest Georgian style. In fact, he obtained funding from the Legislature to build an entirely new residence. With its commanding view of Halifax harbor, lush greenery and beautiful architectural features, Government House is well-suited for an elected official, if not a king. Open to the public in July and August for free guided tours Monday and Friday 11 am-4 pm, Saturday and Sunday 10 am-4 pm. 1451 Barrington St., Halifax. Phone 902-424-1790. http://lt.gov.ns.ca/government-house/the- story-of-government-house.

Halifax Citadel 5425 Sackville St. The British built this star-shaped fortress atop Halifax's highest point (250 ft/76 m above sea level) to defend their interests there and Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3K 5M7 throughout North America. Appealing at any time, the place buzzes in Phone: 902-426-5080 peak season (June to mid-September) when the 78th Highlanders drill https://www.pc.gc.ca/en/lhn- on the central parade grounds, just as they did when the regiment nhs/ns/halifax arrived in 1869, and civilians in period dress re-enact life in the Citadel as it was in the 19th century. In summer, guided tours and the kid- friendly Xplorers Program are free with admission. Be sure to visit the army museum, see The Tides of History (a multimedia presentation about Nova Scotia's military past) and explore such restored buildings as the barracks and gunpowder magazine. The Citadel's stone ramparts also offer a magnificent view of the city and harbor. Daily 9 am-5 pm (until 6 pm July and August). Admission varies according to season but ranges Can$7.80-$11.70 adults. 5425 Sackville St. (Citadel Hill), Halifax. Phone 902-426-5080. https://www.pc.gc.ca/en/lhn-nhs/ns/halifax.

Old Burying Ground (St. Paul's Cemetery) Barrington Street The town's original graveyard is still one of the most scenic in Canada. Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3K 5T9 The first internment occurred the day after the city was founded in 1749, and it served as the city's main burial ground until the mid-1840s. Phone: 902-429-2240 Rolling fog, poetic inscriptions and ghoulish skulls on crooked http://oldburyingground.ca tombstones create an eerie atmosphere and provide insight into the city's difficult early history. You'll have to get close to many of the stones to read them, but the stories you'll see are worth the effort. May-October daily 9 am-5 pm. Free. Barrington Street (at Spring Garden Road), Halifax. Phone 902-429-2240. http://oldburyingground.ca.

Province House 1726 Hollis St. This fine example of British Palladian architecture opened in 1819 and is Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 2Y3 the seat of Canada's oldest legislature. The neoclassical arches and columns, delicate plasterwork and sumptuous interiors give the building Phone: 902-424-4661 an aura of grandeur. On a visit to Halifax in 1842, Charles Dickens wrote http://nslegislature.ca that it was "like looking at Westminster through the wrong end of the telescope." Guided tours are available on request at the door. For group tours, book in advance by phone. Monday-Friday 8:30 am-4:30 pm. Free. 1726 Hollis St., Halifax. Phone 902-424-4661 or 902-424-5982 for tours. http://nslegislature.ca. St. George's Round Church 2222 Brunswick St. Queen Victoria's father, Prince Edward, the Duke of Kent, was obsessed Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3K 2Z3 with circular architecture and built this round church in 1800. (While commanding British forces in Halifax, he also commissioned the Town Phone: 902-423-1059 Clock and the Prince of Wales Tower in Point Pleasant Park.) Higher http://roundchurch.ca than it is wide, the church resembles a wedding cake on the outside. Interior fixtures appear austere, but the high-domed ceiling is dramatic. The excellent acoustics make it a popular site for classical concerts. Monday-Friday 10 am-4 pm. Donations are appreciated. 2222 Brunswick St. (at Cornwallis Street), Halifax. Phone 902-423-1059. http://roundchurch.ca.

St. Paul's Anglican Church 1749 Argyle St. Poised on the south side of the Grand Parade, this 1750 church is not Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 3K4 just the oldest building in town, it is the oldest Protestant place of worship in Canada. The interior, with its compact pews, timber columns Phone: 902-429-2240 and low ceilings, evokes the lower deck of a sailing ship. The church http://www.stpaulshalifax.org contains some fascinating art and artifacts, including dramatic stained- glass windows and shrapnel still stuck in the north wall from the 1917 Halifax Explosion. Guided tours Monday-Friday 9 am-4 pm. Donations are appreciated. 1749 Argyle St., Halifax. Phone 902-429-2240. http://www.stpaulshalifax.org.

Titanic Victims' Graves Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada As the closest major port to the sunken Titanic, Halifax became the http://titanic.gov.ns.ca center of operations for recovering the dead. Most of those buried in Halifax were either unidentified or had families too poor to ship the bodies home. You can visit the graves of 121 victims at Fairview Lawn Cemetery (Windsor Street at Connaught Avenue; phone 902-490-4883). Following the release of the 1997 movie Titanic, flowers were often left at the grave marked "J. Dawson," the same name as the fictional hero of the movie. Other victims rest in two nearby cemeteries: Mount Olivet (7076 Mumford Road; phone 902-865-6663) and Baron de Hirsch (Windsor Street; phone 902-422-1301). The visitor information centers offer informational brochures about each of these sites. The Baron de Hirsch Cemetery is closed to the public. Free. Toll-free 800-565-0000. http://titanic.gov.ns.ca.

Town Clock Brunswick Street This elaborate working clock was a gift to the city in 1803 from Prince Edward, Queen Victoria's father and commander of the British forces in Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada Halifax. Frustrated with the tardiness of his troops, Edward ordered the clock erected at the base of the Citadel so that it could be seen from anywhere in the city. Two centuries later, it still stands as a stately symbol of Halifax's Georgian past. The inside is closed to the public. Brunswick Street (on the east slope of Citadel Hill), Halifax.

Anna Leonowens Gallery 1891 Granville St. This downtown gallery is part of the Nova Scotia College of Art and Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 3J6 Design (NSCAD). Students, faculty and visiting artists show works in three gallery spaces. Featured art ranges from multimedia installations Phone: 902-494-8223 and contemporary landscapes to touring exhibitions. The gallery is http://nscad.ca/en/home/galleriesevents/galleries/default.aspx named after the founder of the college, famous as the 19th-century governess to the children of the King of Siam and inspiration for the movie and musical play The King and I. Monday 5:30-7 pm, Tuesday- Friday 11 am-5 pm, Saturday noon-4 pm. Free. 1891 Granville St., Halifax. Phone 902-494-8223. http://nscad.ca/en/home/galleriesevents/galleries/default.aspx.

Art Gallery of Nova Scotia 1723 Hollis St. The extensive collection, displayed in an 1867 Italianate-style building, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 1V9 includes contemporary and historic works of local, national and Phone: 902-424-3087 international artists, as well as a superb collection of Maritime folk art. Be sure to tour Maud Lewis' tiny reconstructed home to learn about her http://www.artgalleryofnovascotia.ca inspirational story and to enjoy her art. A gift shop and cafe are on-site. Saturday-Wednesday 10 am-5 pm, Thursday and Friday 10 am-9 pm. Can$12 adults, Can$10 seniors, Can$7 students, Can$5 children, free for children age 5 and younger, Can$30 family. Admission by donation Thursday 5-9 pm. 1723 Hollis St., Halifax. Phone 902-424-3087 or 902- 424-5280. http://www.artgalleryofnovascotia.ca.

Atlantic Canada Aviation Museum 1658 Bedford Highway Don't overlook this gem across from the Halifax International Airport. Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B4A 3X5 Several aircraft are on display, including a Cessna L-19 Bird Dog (a prototype for the helicopter), a CF-101 Voodoo and an Ercoupe 415C. Phone: 902-873-3773 Period uniforms, badges, engines and balloons complete the https://acamuseum.ca experience. Daily 9 am-5 pm. Can$8 suggested donation. 1658 Bedford Highway (next to the Quality Inn), Halifax. Phone 902-873-3773. https://acamuseum.ca.

Burke-Gaffney Observatory Department of Astronomy and Physics, The Atlantic night skies are on beautiful view at Saint Mary's University. Perched atop the 22-story Loyola Tower, you can see the moon, the St. Mary's University planets and other interesting celestial objects. In 1995, scientists at this Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3H 3C3 observatory discovered a new supernova. The Ealing 16-in/41-cm Phone: 902-496-8218 diameter Cassegrain reflecting telescope has a computer-controlled http://www.ap.smu.ca/pr/bgo positioning system. Free public tours are held October-May on the second and fourth Friday of each month. June-September, tours are offered every Friday. Note that tours are not given during cloudy or inclement weather. Reservations required. Call to confirm beforehand. Department of Astronomy and Physics, St. Mary's University, Halifax. Phone 902-496-8218. http://www.ap.smu.ca/pr/bgo.

Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21 1055 Marginal Road Between 1928 and 1971, more than 1 million immigrants and refugees Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3H 4P7 arrived at Pier 21 on their way to new lives in Canada. The pier was also the departure and return point for thousands of sailors and soldiers who Phone: 902-425-7770 fought in World War II. The refurbished immigration shed features http://www.pier21.ca interactive displays, a research library, a gift shop and an engaging multimedia presentation. Voted one of Canada's Seven Wonders by CBC. Wednesday-Sunday 10 am-5 pm December-March, Tuesday- Sunday 10 am-5 pm April, daily 9:30 am-5:30 pm May-October, daily 9:30 am-5 pm November. Admission Can$12.61 adults. 1055 Marginal Road (behind the Westin Nova Scotian Hotel), Halifax. Phone 902-425- 7770. Toll-free 855-526-4721. http://www.pier21.ca.

Discovery Centre 1215 Lower Water St. Children love this entertaining and educational science center with 70 Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 3S8 permanent exhibits spread across three floors. It has hands-on displays devoted to such subjects as water and optical illusions, but the star Phone: 902-492-4422 attraction is Bubble Works, a room where kids learn about viscosity by https://thediscoverycentre.ca creating supersized soap bubbles. Daily 10 am-5 pm (Wednesday until 8 pm). Can$12 adults. 1215 Lower Water St., Halifax. Phone 902-492- 4422. https://thediscoverycentre.ca.

HMCS Sackville Sackville Landing Wharf, Lower Water This World War II corvette (a lightly armed, submarine-hunting warship) Street sits at the waterfront just as it did in 1941 before joining a supply convoy for the hazardous trans-Atlantic crossing. Today, it is a painstakingly Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3K 5X5 restored museum and memorial. Visitors can explore from the hold to Phone: 902-429-2132 the bridge at leisure. Mid-June to mid-October daily 10 am-5 pm. https://hmcssackville.ca Admission Can$5 adults. Sackville Landing Wharf, Lower Water Street (downtown, at the foot of Sackville Street), Halifax. Phone 902-429-2132 (winter phone 902-427-2837). https://hmcssackville.ca.

Maritime Museum of the Atlantic 1675 Lower Water St. Partially housed in an old ship's chandlery, this harborside museum Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 1S3 preserves the region's nautical heritage and contains a large range of artifacts. One must-see section has an impressive collection of wooden Phone: 902-424-7490 items recovered from the Titanic (in summer a 15-minute 3-D movie http://maritimemuseum.novascotia.ca about the disaster is shown); another is devoted to the 1917 Halifax Explosion caused by the collision of the Mont Blanc and the Imo in Halifax Harbour. Small boats and artifacts relating to the 4,000-plus ships wrecked off Nova Scotia's shores are also on display. Right outside you'll find the hydrographic research ship Acadia and a fun submarine-shaped play structure. The former, berthed at the museum dock, can be toured for free by ticket holders May-September; the latter, open year-round, is free to all. Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-5:30 pm (Tuesday until 8 pm). Can$9.25 adults. 1675 Lower Water St., Halifax. Phone 902-424-7490. http://maritimemuseum.novascotia.ca.

Mary E. Black Gallery, Nova Scotia Centre for Craft and Design 1061 Marginal Road, Suite 140 A showcase for Nova Scotia's long tradition of craft and design, the Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3H 4P7 gallery exhibits works by local craftspeople, including pottery, needlework, papermaking and glassblowing. Classes are also available Phone: 902-492-2522 fall through spring in weaving, woodwork, metalwork and other crafts. http://www.craft-design.ns.ca Tuesday-Friday 9 am-5 pm, Saturday and Sunday 11 am-4 pm. Free. 1061 Marginal Road, Suite 140 (in the Nova Scotia Centre for Craft and Design, by Pier 21), Halifax. Phone 902-492-2522. http://www.craft- design.ns.ca.

Nova Scotia Museum of Natural History 1747 Summer St. This museum provides an overview of the province's geology, flora and Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3H 3A6 fauna, native cultures and the history of European settlement. It's particularly interesting for children, thanks to interactive displays on Phone: 902-424-7353 Nova Scotia's wildlife and a room with full-scale models of marine https://naturalhistory.novascotia.ca species—including a whale skeleton suspended from the ceiling. Tuesday-Sunday 9 am-5 pm (Wednesday until 8 pm). Can$5.75 adults, Can$5.25 seniors, Can$3.75 children ages 6-17, free for children younger than 6. 1747 Summer St., Halifax. Phone 902-424-7353. https://naturalhistory.novascotia.ca.

Port Loggia Gallery 1107 Marginal Road In partnership with the Anna Leonowens Gallery, the Port Loggia Gallery Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3H 4P7 provides exhibition space on NSCAD's port campus. Thursday-Sunday noon-5 pm. Free. 1107 Marginal Road, Halifax. Phone 902-494-8129. Phone: 902-494-8129 http://alg.nscad.ca/galleries. http://alg.nscad.ca/galleries

The Khyber 1880 Hollis St. Three exhibition areas arranged in an 1880s brick mansion combine cutting-edge art with historical architecture. Exhibits feature Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 1W6 contemporary works by local and national artists in the areas of visual Phone: 902-422-9668 arts, digital media, theater and music. The nonprofit venue is also home http://www.khyber.ca to the Carbon Arc, an alternative cinema on the third floor that shows indie films weekly. Monday 6-9 pm, Wednesday-Saturday noon-5 pm. 1880 Hollis St., Halifax. Phone 902-422-9668. http://www.khyber.ca.

Halifax Common Halifax Common This recreational space occupies 235 acres/95 hectares on the far side of Citadel Hill (away from downtown). In the colonial period it was the Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 3A5 domain of grazing livestock: Today it is Haligonians' favorite playground. Phone: 902-490-4000 The Common contains ball fields, tennis courts, a skateboard park and http://www.halifax.ca a children's play structure. An outdoor pool is open in summer and there is a skating rink in winter. Open-air concerts are also staged on-site with past headliners including the Rolling Stones and Black Eyed Peas. Daily, hours for facilities vary. Halifax Common, Halifax. Phone 902-490-4000. http://www.halifax.ca.

Halifax Public Gardens 5665 Spring Garden Road This formal Victorian garden is in the heart of the city. Established as a Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 3S9 public garden in 1867, it encompasses 16 acres/6.5 hectares. You can stroll along gravel garden paths past duck ponds, gazebos, fountains http://www.halifaxpublicgardens.ca and elegant flower beds bursting with color. Enjoy free Sunday afternoon open-air concerts at the ornate bandstand during summer and on special occasions such as Canada Day. Daily from 7 am. Free. 5665 Spring Garden Road (entrances on Spring Garden Road and Summer and South Park streets), Halifax. http://www.halifaxpublicgardens.ca.

Point Pleasant Park 5718 Point Pleasant Drive Broad tree-shaded trails and pretty seaside paths make this 185- Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3H 1B5 acre/75-hectare park Haligonians' preferred place to stroll, jog or walk their dogs. Situated at the end of the Halifax peninsula, just 1.5 mi/2.5 Phone: 902-490-4700 km from downtown, it's surrounded on three sides by the sea. http://www.pointpleasantpark.ca Fortifications that once defended the harbor are located throughout the park. One of them, the Prince of Wales Tower, looks curiously medieval. Shakespeare by the Sea takes advantage of the park's ruined forts and other features for its outdoor performances during summer. Daily 6 am- midnight. Free. 5718 Point Pleasant Drive (entrances are at the south end of Tower Road and the foot of Point Pleasant Drive), Halifax. Phone 902-490-4700. http://www.pointpleasantpark.ca.

Sir Sandford Fleming Park 260 Dingle Road Also known as The Dingle, this park sits on the far side of the Northwest Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada Arm (a narrow body of water that separates the Halifax peninsula from the mainland). It's named for the inventor of Standard Time, who https://www.novascotia.com/see- donated the 95-acre/35-hectare property to the city in 1908. A trail runs do/attractions/sir-sandford-fleming-park- along the water and past a small, sandy beach. Set back in the woods is the-dingle/1521 the Dingle Tower, a high tower built in 1912 that affords spectacular views of the Arm and the city. May to mid-November 8 am till dusk. 260 Dingle Road (off Purcell's Cove Road), Halifax. https://www.novascotia.com/see-do/attractions/sir-sandford-fleming- park-the-dingle/1521.

York Redoubt Purcells Cove Road You'll find this 200-year old fort on a high bluff overlooking the entrance Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3K 5M7 of Halifax Harbor. During World War II, the Redoubt played an important role in keeping the harbor safe—an anti-submarine net stretched from Phone: 902-426-5080 the Redoubt across the Harbor's entrance to McNabs Island. Today, http://www.pc.gc.ca/eng/lhn- you can breathe in the pine-scented air and enjoy spectacular views of nhs/ns/york/index.aspx Halifax Harbor and the Atlantic. June-September daily 8 am-8 pm. Free Admission. Purcells Cove Road (off Route 253, a 20-minute drive from downtown), Halifax. Phone 902-426-5080. http://www.pc.gc.ca/eng/lhn- nhs/ns/york/index.aspx.

Haligonians have been brewing beer since 1754, so the number of small micro- and craft breweries in Halifax should come as no surprise. Some operate as pubs, and others have stores where you can purchase the sudsy stuff to go. Alexander Keith's Brewery Tour 1496 Lower Water St. Enthusiastic actors in period attire guide visitors through the 1820 Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada building where Alexander Keith—Nova Scotia's first certified brewmaster —produced the much-loved libation that still bears his names. Free beer Phone: 902-455-1474 (or juice) is served at the end of the 55-minute tour in a 19th-century http://www.keiths.ca pub, complete with period pub games. The tour finishes at the entrance to a tunnel system that, while no longer passable, runs underground through parts of the city, and one tunnel goes as far as Alexander Keith's old home on Hollis Street. Visit the store for some great beer souvenirs. Friday 5-8 pm, Saturday noon-8 pm, Sunday noon-5 pm. Can$15.95 adults; Can$13.95 seniors, students and military; Can$7.95 children. 1496 Lower Water St. (in the Brewery Market), Halifax. Phone 902-455-1474. Toll-free 877-612-1820. http://www.keiths.ca.

Garrison Brewing 1149 Marginal Road Located by Pier 21 and the cruise terminal, this brewery's products— Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3H 4P7 including Raspberry Wheat, Nut Brown Ale, Hopyard Pale and Imperial IPA—have won medals at the World Beer Championships. Buy some to Phone: 902-453-5343 take with you or get samples for Can$2 a glass at the on-site bar. http://garrisonbrewing.com Monday-Thursday noon-7 pm, Friday noon-8 pm, Saturday 8 am-8 pm, Sunday 10 am-7 pm. 1149 Marginal Road, Halifax. Phone 902-453- 5343. http://garrisonbrewing.com.

Granite Brewery Halifax 6054 Stairs St. The Granite Brewery, founded in 1985, was the first Canadian brewpub Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3K 2E5 east of the Rockies. It has a location in Toronto and is licensed as a microbrewery, allowing it to sell its beer elsewhere. Popular picks Phone: 902-422-4954 include Peculiar, Ringwood and Greenman Organic. Monday-Thursday http://granitebreweryhalifax.ca 10 am-7 pm, Friday and Saturday 10 am-8 pm, Sunday noon-6 pm. 6054 Stairs St., Halifax. Phone 902-422-4954. http://granitebreweryhalifax.ca.

Hart and Thistle Gastropub and Brewery 1869 Upper Water St. Gastropubs are known to serve food a level above a normal public Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada house and this is no exception. It has married traditional pub grub with Nova Scotia favorites and flavors. Try the local charcuterie plate or fish- Phone: 902-407-4278 and-chips made with beer-battered haddock. In addition to its own http://www.hartandthistle.com handcrafted ale, it carries Keith's and a wide selection of microbrewed craft beers. $$-$$$. 1869 Upper Water St. (in the Historic Properties), Halifax. Phone 902-407-4278. http://www.hartandthistle.com.

Propeller Brewing Company 2015 Gottingen St. Specializes in craft beers (some of them—such as Pumpkin Ale— Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3K 3B1 inspired by the changing seasons) as well as tasty, all-natural sodas. Brewery tours available July-September Wednesday 6-7:30 pm. Phone: 902-468-1026 Monday and Tuesday 10 am-8 pm, Wednesday and Thursday 10 am- http://www.drinkpropeller.ca 10 pm, Friday and Saturday 10 am-midnight, Sunday noon-10 pm. Tour and tasting Can$15. 2015 Gottingen St., Halifax. Phone 902-468-1026. http://www.drinkpropeller.ca.

Recreation

Halifax offers endless opportunities for active visitors. With so much water around, you won't have any trouble finding a place to rent kayaks or canoes, and you'll see plenty of local sailors from the municipality's seven yacht clubs on the water with you. About a half-hour from town, on the Eastern Shore, it's surfers who rule the waves.

Swimming is another option despite the chilly waters throughout the area. Sandy beaches abound.

In summer, several charter companies offer whale-watching and other nature excursions. If you want to fish, you'll find shark, haddock, mackerel, cod and Boston bluefish in abundance in the waters around Halifax. Prices vary depending on the size of the group. http://www.halifaxinfo.com.

Landlubbers will find many golf courses within easy driving distance. Hiking, biking, horseback riding and cross-country skiing are widely available as well—often on shared-use trails. The maps, directions and detailed descriptions on the province's trail website will point you in the right direction. http://www.trails.gov.ns.ca/SharedUse/halifax.html. Beaches

Halifax can be a great place to swim, but pollution puts Halifax Harbour and the Northwest Arm off-limits. Opt instead for a freshwater dip in Chocolate Lake (near the Halifax Rotary) or drive to Rainbow Haven Provincial Beach (the closest serviced choice for ocean swimming) in suburban Cole Harbour.

If you're prepared to go farther, some of Atlantic Canada's best beaches lie along the Eastern Shore. These include Lawrencetown Beach, which is popular among surfers, and Martinique Beach, the longest white-sand beach in Nova Scotia: Prepare for a 25- or 45- minute drive, respectively.

It's prudent to stick to those beaches that have lifeguards. The Halifax Regional Municipality provides a list of supervised beaches within the HRM (http://www.halifax.ca/rec/beaches.html). For those in outlying areas, visit http://www.nsls.ns.ca.

The website of the Halifax Cycling Coalition, a municipal advocacy group, covers all the brass-tacks details about biking in the HRM—from the rules of the road to where you can rent equipment (http://cyclehalifax.ca). If you prefer a guided tour, there are a variety of Nova Scotia-based outfitters to choose from. Freewheeling Adventures 2118 Route 329, The Lodge This outfitter organizes cycling day trips in and around Halifax, as well Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B0J 1T0 as multiday tours of the province. Trips aimed at hikers, kayakers and yoga enthusiasts are also available. 2118 Route 329, The Lodge Phone: 902-857-3600 (Lunenburg County), Halifax. Phone 902-857-3600. Toll-free 800-672- http://www.freewheeling.ca 0775. http://www.freewheeling.ca.

East Coast Outfitters 2017 Lower Prospect Road This company, based about 30 minutes south of downtown, rents canoes and kayaks and runs on-the-water excursions. Instruction is also Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada offered. Daily May-October. Kayak rentals from Can$25 per hour. 2017 Phone: 902-852-2567 Lower Prospect Road (Lower Prospect), Halifax. Phone 902-852-2567. http://www.eastcoastoutfitters.com Toll-free 877-852-2567. http://www.eastcoastoutfitters.com.

Mountain Equipment Co-op 1550 Granville St. During the warmer months, you can rent canoes and kayaks at this Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 1X1 store in the heart of Halifax. Monday-Wednesday 9:30 am-7 pm, Thursday and Friday 9:30 am-9 pm, Saturday 9 am-6 pm, Sunday 11 Phone: 902-421-2667 am-5 pm. Can$30 per day. 1550 Granville St., Halifax. Phone 902-421- http://www.mec.ca 2667. http://www.mec.ca.

The Nova Scotia Yachting Association 5516 Spring Garden Road This organization can provide all the information you need about sailing Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 1G6 in the Halifax area, and its website has links to all local yacht clubs. 5516 Spring Garden Road, Halifax. Phone 902-425-5450, ext. 312. Phone: 902-425-5450, http://www.sailnovascotia.ca. http://www.sailnovascotia.ca

The playing season is generally May-October daily 6 am-dusk. A complete listing of courses open to the public is available at http://www.golfnovascotia.com. Glen Arbour Golf Course 40 Club House Lane Two handsome, highly regarded courses in this residential golf Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B4A 1T4 community are open for greens-fee play: an 18-hole, par-72 course and a nine-hole par-3 Executive. Daily 7 am-dusk. 40 Club House Lane Phone: 902-835-4653 (Hammonds Plains), Halifax. Phone 902-835-4653. http://www.glenarbour.com http://www.glenarbour.com.

Nova Scotia is a beautiful province to hike in, and the Halifax Regional Municipality (HRM) offers some breathtaking vistas as well as trails that will exhilarate and challenge hikers of all levels. Favorite venues include Point Pleasant Park, Sir Sandford Fleming Park and Hemlock Ravine Park. The last of these, located in Prince's Lodge off the Bedford Highway, contains heart-shaped Julie's Pond (named in honor of Prince Edward's French mistress) and several peaceful wooded paths.

For a true, off-the-tourist-track alternative, lace up your hiking boots on McNab's Island. Accessible only by boat, it sits at the mouth of Halifax Harbour and is threaded with trails. Information on transportation to the island is available from the Friends of McNab's Island Society. Phone 902-434-2254. http://www.mcnabsisland.ca.

Nova Scotia Equestrian Federation 5516 Spring Garden Road A clearinghouse of information for all things related to horses, including a detailed listing of reliable stable operators that offer trail rides. Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 1G6 Monday-Friday 9 am-4:30 pm. 5516 Spring Garden Road, Halifax. Phone: 902-425-5450, Phone 902-425-5450, http://www.horsenovascotia.ca. http://www.horsenovascotia.ca Numerous indoor rinks—including the Halifax Metro Centre (phone 902-421-8000; http://www.halifaxmetrocentre.com)—are open to the public for recreational skating during select hours in winter. Emera Oval Halifax North Common, North Park and For old-fashioned atmosphere, nothing beats this rink on Halifax Cogswell streets Common. Skating is free, and so are loaner skates: You just have to leave an ID as a deposit. Monday-Friday 11 am-9 pm, Saturday and Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada Sunday noon-9 pm. Halifax North Common, North Park and Cogswell Phone: 902-490-2347 streets, Halifax. Phone 902-490-2347. https://www.halifax.ca/recreation/facilities- https://www.halifax.ca/recreation/facilities-fields/emera-oval. fields/emera-oval For cross-country skiing, consider the trails at Hemlock Ravine, Shubie Park, Point Pleasant Park and Sir Sandford Fleming Park (Loop Road Trail). Happy Dudes Surf Emporium 4891 Highway 207, Three Fathom If you want to do something different on the water, try surfing. Happy Dudes operates a pair of rental outlets on the Eastern Shore: one at Harbour Martinique Beach, the other just east of Lawrencetown (4891 Highway Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B0J 1N0 207, Three Fathom Harbour; phone 902-827-4962). Instruction is Phone: 902-827-4962 offered at both beaches. Daily 9 am till dark. 4891 Highway 207, Three http://www.happydudes.ca Fathom Harbour (East Petpeswick, Martinique Beach), Halifax. Phone 902-827-4962. http://www.happydudes.ca.

Kannon Beach Wind and Surf Shop 4144 Lawrencetown Road This Lawrencetown outfitter offers equipment rentals and lessons for Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B2Z 1P9 both surfers and windsurfers less than 30 minutes from downtown. Monday-Friday 9 am-6 pm, Saturday and Sunday 9 am-5 pm. 4144 Phone: 902-471-0025 Lawrencetown Road (East Lawrencetown), Halifax. Phone 902-471- http://www.kannonbeach.com 0025. http://www.kannonbeach.com.

Nightlife

Sundown doesn't put a crimp in Halifax's liveliness, though most of the action is downtown. With so many clubs, pubs, bars and lounges to choose from, the evenings are long—generally carrying on into the wee hours. The Dome and Reflections Cabaret stay open after most bars close, till about 3:30 am. Afterward, locals head for one of the pizza joints on "Pizza Corner," at Blowers and Grafton streets, for a slice of pizza or a donair.

You'll find this compact city offers a smorgasbord of venues within walking distance from historic Halifax's major hotels. You will typically pay a cover charge at clubs on Friday and Saturday night, and at bars or pubs whenever live music is featured: Can$5-$6 is standard, but the cover can be Can$20 or more for special performances. For entertainment listings, visit http://www.thecoast.ca.

Note that the legal drinking age in Nova Scotia is 19.

Bars, Taverns & Pubs

Economy Shoe Shop Cafe and Bar 1663 Argyle St. If there's a film crew in town (as there often is), this is where you're most likely to catch a glimpse of a star. A hot spot for the art crowd and Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 2B5 entertainment industry, it's also popular with average Joes—especially Phone: 902-423-7463 in summer when they shoehorn onto the streetfront patio. Meals are http://www.economyshoeshop.ca served, but the drinks are better. Monday night is jazz night. Daily 11 am-2 am. 1663 Argyle St., Halifax. Phone 902-423-7463. http://www.economyshoeshop.ca.

Henry House 1222 Barrington St. Located in an 1834 stone building, this place serves Granite Brewery Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada ales and special blends such as Shandy or Light & Bitter. In summer, it Phone: 902-423-5660 also has one of the city's best patios. The food (including house-made http://www.henryhouse.ca beans and bread pudding) is worth sticking around for. Monday- Saturday 11:30 am-midnight, Sunday 11:30 am-11 pm. 1222 Barrington St., Halifax. Phone 902-423-5660. http://www.henryhouse.ca.

Maxwell's Plum English Pub 1600 Grafton St. This traditional English pub serves a large selection of imported and local beers (60 on tap and 90 bottled), as well as single-malt Scotches. Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 2C2 Daily 11 am-1 am. 1600 Grafton St., Halifax. Phone 902-423-5090. Phone: 902-423-5090 http://themaxwellsplum.com. http://themaxwellsplum.com

Obladee Wine Bar 1600 Barrington St. Start an evening there before heading out to dinner. An excellent Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 1Z6 selection of wines by the glass, at every price point. The servers are knowledgeable, and the place exudes a downright sexy atmosphere— Phone: 902-405-4505 walls are painted in shades of crimson and cream, and everything is lit http://obladee.ca by tealights. The cheese and charcuterie boards are locally sourced. Monday-Saturday from 4 pm. 1600 Barrington St., Halifax. Phone 902- 405-4505. http://obladee.ca.

The Bitter End 1572 Argyle St. Serves terrific martinis and a broad selection of wines by the glass. You Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada can order a large variety of appetizer and sampling plates, too. In summer, enjoy them on the outdoor patio. Daily 4 pm-2 am. 1572 Argyle Phone: 902-425-3039 St., Halifax. Phone 902-425-3039. http://www.bitterend.ca. http://www.bitterend.ca

The Fireside 1500 Brunswick St. According to The Coast readers, The Fireside has Halifax's best cocktails. If you're hungry, it also serves better-than-average bar food. Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 3X9 Several propane fireplaces take the chill off a cool spring or fall evening. Phone: 902-423-5995 Monday-Thursday 11:30 am-midnight, Friday 11:30 am-1 am, Saturday http://www.thefireside.ca 4 pm-1 am, Sunday 4-11 pm. 1500 Brunswick St., Halifax. Phone 902- 423-5995. http://www.thefireside.ca.

The Foggy Goggle 2057 Gottingen St. The service at this cozy pub is top-notch. A full range of comfort foods Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3K 3B2 such as lobster mac-and-cheese and pita pizzas is on offer. With a dozen beers on tap and a list of signature cocktails, you'll want to stay a Phone: 902-444-1414 while. Daily from 11:30 am. 2057 Gottingen St., Halifax. Phone 902-444- http://thefoggygoggle.ca 1414. http://thefoggygoggle.ca.

Yuk Yuk's Comedy Club 1181 Hollis St. Haligonians are known for their wit and humor, the city's only club Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3H 2P6 devoted to comedy surely confirms that. The audience is entertained by some of the best comedic acts in the industry. Age 19 and older only. Phone: 902-429-9857 Wednesday is amateur talent night; professional shows Thursday- http://www.yukyuks.com Saturday. 1181 Hollis St. (in the Westin Nova Scotian), Halifax. Phone 902-429-9857. http://www.yukyuks.com.

Pacifico 1505 Barrington St. Friday nights at this dance club lure a large student contingent, and Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 3K5 more than Can$1 million has been raised for charities in partnerships with the local universities. Saturday draws a more sophisticated crowd. Phone: 902-422-3633 You can dine before dancing at the adjacent Niche Lounge. Friday and http://www.pacifico.ca Saturday 9 pm-2 am. 1505 Barrington St., Halifax. Phone 902-422- 3633. http://www.pacifico.ca.

Reflections Cabaret 5187 Salter St. This "no labels" spot is one of the hottest in town. Concerts, themed Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 1E6 parties, drag-queen performances and pounding dance music ensure it is always packed. Reflections routinely sweeps The Coast's "best of" Phone: 902-422-2957 club categories. Monday and Thursday-Saturday 10 pm-3:30 am. 5187 http://www.reflectionscabaret.com Salter St., Halifax. Phone 902-422-2957. http://www.reflectionscabaret.com.

Taboo Nightclub 1737 Grafton St. The fun part about this place is that you can reserve your own room Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 2C6 (seats up to 10 people) and have a private dance party. "Entourage" and "Sex and the City" packages include drinks, appetizers and Phone: 902-422-6907 transportation to and from your hotel. A happening spot for corporate https://www.hideseekhfx.com events, bachelorette parties and savvy tourists. Friday and Saturday from 10 pm. Dress code. Packages from Can$35. 1737 Grafton St., Halifax. Phone 902-422-6907. https://www.hideseekhfx.com.

Bearly's House of Blues and Ribs 1269 Barrington St. Food and blues come together at this dark downtown watering hole. Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 1Y2 The spotlight switches on when local blues and traveling bluegrass bands hit the stage. Open Monday and Tuesday 11 am-1 am, Phone: 902-423-2526 Wednesday-Saturday 11 am-2 am, Sunday noon-1 am. 1269 Barrington http://www.bearlys.ca St., Halifax. Phone 902-423-2526. http://www.bearlys.ca.

Cheers Bar and Grill 1741 Grafton St. A sister bar to The Dome, Cheers is known for a laid-back atmosphere, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3K 2E6 good food and a regular roster of live music. Try your hand at becoming a rock star with karaoke Monday and Tuesday. Sunday-Wednesday 10 Phone: 902-421-1655 pm-3:30 am, Thursday-Saturday 9 pm-3:30 am. 1741 Grafton St., https://www.facebook.com/cheerslivehfx Halifax. Phone 902-421-1655. https://www.facebook.com/cheerslivehfx.

Split Crow Pub 1855 Granville St. A Halifax institution since 1749, the atmospheric current incarnation Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 1Y1 continues to pack in the crowds. Celtic rock plays nightly, plus there is a popular Saturday matinee. Power Hour (draft specials) Wednesday and Phone: 902-422-4366 Thursday 9-10 pm, Saturday 4:30-5:30 pm. Monday-Wednesday and http://www.splitcrow.com Sunday 11 am-12:30 am, Thursday-Saturday 11 am-1 am. 1855 Granville St., Halifax. Phone 902-422-4366. http://www.splitcrow.com.

The Lower Deck 1869 Upper Water St. The boisterous spirit of the privateers lingers on at this Historic Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada Properties venue. Join the natives at long trestle tables in the downstairs pub and listen to live Maritime music nightly. Open Monday-Thursday Phone: 902-425-1501 11:30 am-12:45 am, Friday and Saturday 11:30 am-2 am, Sunday 5 http://www.lowerdeck.ca pm-2 am. 1869 Upper Water St., Halifax. Phone 902-425-1501. http://www.lowerdeck.ca.

The Old Triangle Irish Ale House 5136 Prince St. This old-school ale house serves Irish food and drink (think a Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 1L4 ploughman's lunch and pints of Guinness). Most nights it also adds live Celtic music to the mix. Sunday-Thursday 11 am-11:30 pm, Friday and Phone: 902-492-4900 Saturday 11 am-1 am. 5136 Prince St., Halifax. Phone 902-492-4900. http://www.oldtriangle.com http://www.oldtriangle.com.

The Seahorse Tavern 2037 Gottingen St In its seventh decade and still going strong, this basement bar hosts "Halifamous" favorites such as Joel Plaskett. Funk acts, rockers and Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3K 3B1 Motown cover bands also appear on the line-up. Open Monday- Phone: 902-423-7200 Saturday 5 pm-2 am. Cover varies. 2037 Gottingen St (beneath the http://theseahorsetavern.ca Economy Shoe Shop complex), Halifax. Phone 902-423-7200. http://theseahorsetavern.ca.

Performing Arts Thanks to several local theater companies, there is always something to see on stage in Halifax. There's a lot to listen to as well: The symphony is excellent, and annual events such as the Scotia Festival of Music in May and June (phone 902-429-9467; http://www.scotiafestival.ns.ca) and the TD Halifax Jazz Festival in July (phone 902-492-2225; http://halifaxjazzfestival.ca) combine talented performers with appreciative crowds.

A thriving local movie industry, meanwhile, has spawned the careers of Oscar-nominated Juno star Ellen Page and Academy Award- winner Michael Donovan, producer of Bowling for Columbine. To catch the best area flicks, visit during the Atlantic Film Festival, a 10-day event held every September. Phone 902-422-3456. http://www.atlanticfilm.com.

Music

Symphony Nova Scotia 5657 Spring Garden Road, Suite 301 Atlantic Canada's largest professional orchestra specializes in chamber Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 3R4 music but is also known for its versatile repertoire, which includes baroque, jazz and pop music. Performances at the Dalhousie Arts Phone: 902-494-3820 Centre's Rebecca Cohn Auditorium (6101 University Ave.) and St. http://www.symphonynovascotia.ca Andrew's United Church (6036 Coburg Road). The season runs September-May. Tickets prices vary by performance and seat location. 5657 Spring Garden Road, Suite 301 (administrative office, in Park Lane Mall), Halifax. Phone 902-494-3820. Toll-free 800-874-1669. http://www.symphonynovascotia.ca.

Neptune Theatre 1593 Argyle St. A theater has been on this site since 1915 and the Neptune itself, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 2B2 currently Atlantic Canada's largest professional regional theater—was established in 1963. Performances have included Broadway musicals Phone: 902-429-7070 such as Cats, Beauty and the Beast and The Producers, as well as http://www.neptunetheatre.com contemporary Canadian productions and classic works by such playwrights as George Bernard Shaw and Samuel Beckett. The season runs mid-September to late May (sometimes later). Ticket prices vary. 1593 Argyle St., Halifax. Phone 902-429-7070. Toll-free 800-565-7345. http://www.neptunetheatre.com.

Shakespeare by the Sea 5799 Charles St. This convivial company proves the play's the thing each summer at Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3K 1K7 Point Pleasant Park. The Bard's works are brought to life beside the Cambridge Battery at 7 pm nightly except Monday, and on Saturday and Phone: 902-422-0295 Sunday at 1 pm, as well. Tickets are pay what you can; suggested http://www.shakespearebythesea.ca donation is Can$15. 5799 Charles St., Halifax. Phone 902-422-0295. http://www.shakespearebythesea.ca.

Tickets for some events can be bought at local Sobeys grocery stores, Atlantic SuperStores, at the box office at the Metro Centre (phone 902-451-1221 or 902-451-1202) or online at http://www.ticketatlantic.com.

Other events have their own ticketing.

Rebecca Cohn Auditorium 6101 University Ave. Part of the Dalhousie University campus, this performance arts venue is Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada ááB3H home to Symphony Nova Scotia and hosts popular events such as the Halifax Comedy Festival and an annual production of The Nutcracker. 4R2 Tickets vary depending upon event. 6101 University Ave., Halifax. Phone: 902-494-3820 Phone 902-494-3820. Toll-free 800-874-1669. https://www.dal.ca/dept/arts-centre.html https://www.dal.ca/dept/arts-centre.html.

Spectator Sports

As passionate as Haligonians are about their city (and they are proud), their enthusiasm toward sports goes even further. They'll pour into the Metro Centre to get their pro basketball fix, cheer loudly for their favorite amateur rugby team and support almost any sort of varsity game. With six universities in the city, Halifax is big on college sports (Dalhousie University and St. Mary's University are particularly competitive). You can catch hockey, soccer, basketball, volleyball, swimming, track events and more. For times and venues, see http://www.atlanticuniversitysport.com.

Watching hockey, however, is still the No. 1 activity. That's no surprise considering the sport was "born" in Windsor—just 66 mi/41 km northwest of the city—in 1800.

Hockey

Halifax Mooseheads 1741 Brunswick St. This Quebec Major Junior Hockey League team gives up-and-coming Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 3X8 NHL hopefuls a chance to shine. The season runs September-March with two to nine home games a month and playoff games into May at Phone: 902-451-1221 the Halifax Metro Centre. Ticket prices start at Can$15.75. 1741 http://www.halifaxmooseheads.ca Brunswick St., Halifax. Phone 902-451-1221. http://www.halifaxmooseheads.ca.

Halifax Rugby Football Club Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada This long-standing rugby club has senior men's and women's teams. Games are scheduled at various fields in the city. Phone 902-425-4732. Phone: 902-425-4732 http://www.hrfc.ca. http://www.hrfc.ca

Scotiabank Centre 1800 Argyle St. Home to the Halifax Mooseheads and Halifax Rainmen, the arena also Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 2V9 hosts NHL Exhibition games as well as lacrosse, curling and figure skating. Big-name concerts take place there, too. Ticket prices vary Phone: 902-451-1221 depending on the performance and are often sold out in advance. 1800 http://www.scotiabank-centre.com Argyle St., Halifax. Phone 902-451-1221. http://www.scotiabank- centre.com.

Shopping

Nova Scotia, and Halifax in particular, has a thriving craft scene. Many stores carry local handmade items—some traditional, others contemporary—and it's a great place to shop for art, too. Paintings, sculpture and photographs can be found in the many galleries and studios scattered throughout the city.

Gift stores selling typical Atlantic Canadian fare (namely Scottish wares and nautical-themed souvenirs), high-end shops and trendy boutiques are all plentiful. A city this old also has many vintage treasures. If you're into old or rare books, downtown Halifax has several shops you'll find appealing. Antiques stores, meanwhile, tend to be concentrated in the north end of the city, especially Agricola Street, though their quality varies.

Shopping Hours: Generally Monday-Wednesday and Saturday 9 am-6 pm, Thursday and Friday 9 am-9 pm, Sunday noon-5 pm. Malls and the larger chain stores are open Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-9:30 pm.

Antique Stores

Finer Things Antiques and Curios 2797 Agricola St. This eclectic spot displays fascinating finds—from retro records to fine Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada 19th-century furniture—in a 1,200-sq-ft/111-sq-m space. More than a dozen dealers are represented. Tuesday-Saturday 10:30 am-5 pm, Phone: 902-456-1412 Sunday noon-4 pm. 2797 Agricola St., Halifax. Phone 902-456-1412. http://finerthingsantiques.com http://finerthingsantiques.com.

Schooner Books Ltd. 5378 Inglis St. What started as a quaint, second-hand paperback store is now a Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3H 1J5 favorite specialty book shop. Hundreds of in-stock books, both hardcover and paperback, cover many genres. Be sure to check out the Phone: 902-423-8419 extensive collection on Maritime history, early Canadiana and classic http://www.schoonerbooks.com children's books. Wednesday-Friday 10 am-5:30 pm, Saturday 10 am-5 pm. 5378 Inglis St., Halifax. Phone 902-423-8419. http://www.schoonerbooks.com.

The Bookmark 5686 Spring Garden Road Despite its small size, this store has an excellent selection of recent Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 1H5 fiction, poetry and nonfiction. Monday-Friday 9 am-10 pm, Saturday 9 am-6 pm, Sunday 11 am-6 pm. 5686 Spring Garden Road, Halifax. Phone: 902-423-0419 Phone 902-423-0419. http://bookmarkreads.ca. http://bookmarkreads.ca

Woozles 1533 Birmingham St. Canada's oldest children's book shop has everything for young readers. Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 2J6 Its inventory includes quality toys and games, too. Monday-Thursday and Saturday 9:30 am-5:30 pm, Friday 9:30 am-9 pm, Sunday 11 am-5 Phone: 902-423-7626 pm. 1533 Birmingham St. (just off Spring Garden Road), Halifax. Phone http://www.woozles.com 902-423-7626. Toll-free 800-966-0537. http://www.woozles.com.

Visual Arts Nova Scotia lists upcoming exhibitions in and around town at http://www.visualarts.ns.ca. Fireworks Gallery 1569 Barrington St. This local fixture, located in a Victorian-era building, has enticed its Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada customers with innovative jewelry designs since 1977. Monday-Saturday 10 am-5:30 pm. 1569 Barrington St., Halifax. Phone 902-420-1735. Toll- Phone: 902-420-1735 free 800-720-4367. http://www.fireworksgallery.com. http://www.fireworksgallery.com

Studio 21 Fine Art Gallery 1273 Hollis St. Expect some of the best—and most offbeat—contemporary art in Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 1T7 Maritime Canada. Tuesday-Friday 11 am-6 pm, Saturday 10 am-5 pm, Sunday and Monday by appointment. 1273 Hollis St., Halifax. Phone Phone: 902-420-1852 902-420-1852. http://www.studio21.ca. http://www.studio21.ca

Zwicker's 5415 Doyle St. One of Canada's oldest commercial galleries, this place offers original Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 1H9 artwork, maps, prints, engravings and objets d'art, all with a Canadian focus. Monday by appointment only, Tuesday-Friday 9 am-5 pm, Phone: 902-423-7662 Saturday 10 am-5 pm. 5415 Doyle St., Halifax. Phone 902-423-7662. http://www.zwickersgallery.ca http://www.zwickersgallery.ca.

Halifax Seaport Farmers Market 1209 Marginal Road Situated at the boardwalk's southern terminus, this airy, ecoconscious Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3H 4P8 building boasts a living wall, a green roof, energy-generating windmills and sublime harbor views. Go on Saturday morning for the fresh food Phone: 902-492-4043 and fabulous people-watching. International market with ethnic food on http://www.halifaxfarmersmarket.com Friday. Tuesday-Friday 10 am-5 pm, Saturday 7 am-3 pm, Sunday 9 am-3 pm. 1209 Marginal Road (Pier 20), Halifax. Phone 902-492-4043. http://www.halifaxfarmersmarket.com.

Agricola Street Area 2540 Agricola St. This North End area, little known to tourists, has unusual restaurants, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada ethnic-food shops, contemporary galleries and cool design stores. The area's renaissance was kicked off by the opening of Fred, a cafe and art gallery in a former bank building: The presence of an on-site hair salon (http://fredstyle.ca) makes Fred literally cutting-edge. 2540 Agricola St., Halifax.

Bishop's Landing 1475 Lower Water St. This little collection of locally owned shops features everything from high fashion to fine wines. Bishop's Cellar is a great place for oenophiles, and Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada NS B3J those in search of something sweet will love the handmade candy and 3Z2 ice cream at Sugah!. 1475 Lower Water St. (at the foot of Bishop http://www.bishopslanding.com Street), Halifax. http://www.bishopslanding.com.

Granville Mall 1858 Granville St. You'll find some interesting examples of Victorian-Italianate facades on Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada this short downtown strip. By day it's filled with boutique-shoppers and students from the Nova Scotia College of Art and Design. By night, it's the place for pubgoers and those seeking a romantic or quiet dinner. It's closed to vehicles, so strolling and building-gawking are encouraged. 1858 Granville St., Halifax.

Historic Properties 1869 Upper Water St. Mainly comprising warehouses built in the late-18th and early-19th Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada century to store the booty privateers took from U.S. ships, this attractive waterfront zone is now home to gift shops, pubs and seafood http://www.historicproperties.ca restaurants. Cobblestoned paths link most buildings. 1869 Upper Water St., Halifax. http://www.historicproperties.ca.

Hydrostone Marketplace 5531 Young St., The Hydrostone Market, Built with hydrostone (basically textured concrete) after the Halifax Suite 200 Explosion, this cluster of North End boutiques and restaurants has a European feel. Establishments offer high-caliber crafts, plus quality Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3K 1Z7 accessories for you and your home. There are several tempting http://www.hydrostonemarket.ca eateries, too. 5531 Young St., The Hydrostone Market, Suite 200 (between Isleville and Gottingen streets), Halifax. http://www.hydrostonemarket.ca.

Spring Garden Road 5670 Spring Garden Road, Suite 610 In the heart of Halifax, this street spanning nine city blocks is lined with Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 1H6 restaurants, craft shops and trendy boutiques. Anchored by Park Lane (a small upscale mall), the road has more than 200 retail shops and http://www.springgardenarea.com services, most of them independently owned. 5670 Spring Garden Road, Suite 610, Halifax. http://www.springgardenarea.com.

Carrefour Atlantic Emporium 1869 Upper Water St. You'll find an excellent selection of crafts made in Atlantic Canada, such Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 1S9 as hand-knit sweaters, wooden bowls, vases, carvings and original paintings, as well as a great selection of local books in both English and Phone: 902-423-2940 French. Daily 10 am-7 pm. 1869 Upper Water St. (in the Historic http://carrefouratlantic.com Properties), Halifax. Phone 902-423-2940. http://carrefouratlantic.com.

Jennifer's of Nova Scotia 5635 Spring Garden Road This shop sells traditional goods made in the province, including pottery, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 1G9 pewter wood carvings and hand-knit woolens. Monday, Tuesday and Saturday 9 am-5:30 pm, Wednesday-Friday 9 am-9 pm, Sunday 11 am- Phone: 902-425-3119 5 pm. 5635 Spring Garden Road, Halifax. Phone 902-425-3119. http://www.jennifers.ns.ca http://www.jennifers.ns.ca.

NovaScotian Crystal 5080 George St. On-site artisans carefully blow and form glassware, then engrave intricate designs on their Waterford-style creations. Watch them in Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 1M4 action Monday-Friday or purchase the gorgeous end products in the Phone: 902-492-0416 showroom. Monday-Friday 9 am-6 pm, Saturday and Sunday 10 am-5 http://www.novascotiancrystal.com pm. 5080 George St., Halifax. Phone 902-492-0416. Toll-free 888-977- 2797. http://www.novascotiancrystal.com.

Plaid Place 1903 Barrington St. This Scottish kilt and highland dress shop, featuring more than 500 Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 3L7 Scottish, Irish district and Canadian provincial tartans, will certainly please the plaid-conscious. Many products are made with the Nova Phone: 902-429-6872 Scotian tartan. Thick Shetland wool sweaters and imported pottery are http://www.plaidplace.com among the other finds. 1903 Barrington St. (Barrington Place Shops), Halifax. Phone 902-429-6872. Toll-free 800-563-1749. http://www.plaidplace.com.

Itinerary Day Trips

To Peggy's Cove. This tiny fishing outpost, about a 45-minute drive southwest of Halifax, clings to a rocky coast. The landscape is striking: Scrub covers great mounds of granite that roll into the ocean. The equally evocative architecture includes a smattering of bright clapboard houses and the fabled Peggy's Cove Lighthouse. The combination makes it one of the most photographed places in Canada.

As you enter the hamlet, you can visit the deGarthe Gallery to see the work of William deGarthe, a renowned Maritime artist who lived in Peggy's Cove for many years. His best-known work is just outside the gallery: a 100-ft-/30-m-long bas relief sculpture, carved in solid granite, that honors local fishermen who died at sea. Another moving memorial, located 1 mi/1.6 km north, was erected as a tribute to the 229 crew members and passengers who lost their lives when Swissair Flight 111 crashed into the Atlantic Ocean just off Peggy's Cove in 1998.

Because Peggy's Cove is so popular in summer, we suggest going early (before 10 am) to find peace and quiet. The scenic road in winds through small villages, so take care to reduce your speed—especially during foggy weather. The cove itself is a small haven on a dangerous coastline: The surf can be dramatic, but stay a safe distance from the water. Some careless visitors have been swept into the ocean. http://www.peggyscoveregion.com.

To Chester, Mahone Bay and Lunenburg. These three seaside communities on the Lighthouse Route are as pretty as Peggy's Cove but not as overrun with tourists. To reach them, drive southwest from Halifax on Highway 103. In less than an hour, you'll be in Chester, which is sailing country. Boaters from across the country and throughout New England visit in droves, especially during Chester Race Week in mid-August. http://www.chesterareans.ca.

Drive about 20 minutes farther on the Lighthouse Route to Mahone Bay. You'll know you're there when you round a bend and see a trio of vintage church spires facing the quiet waters. Some of Canada's finest artisans have set up shop on Mahone Bay's main street, and the Amos Pewter factory offers an interesting demonstration on the art of making fine pewter. http://www.mahonebay.com.

Continue driving about 10 minutes more on Highway 103 to Lunenburg, where traditional dory builders still labor on the waterfront and fishermen continue to land the catch of the day. Lunenburg has so many well-preserved buildings from the 1700s and 1800s that the United Nations declared it a UNESCO World Heritage site. Take a harbor tour (look for the booth on the boardwalk), dine on fine seafood and browse through the funky boutiques. Just be sure to leave time for a visit to the Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic (you can't miss it— the fire-engine-red building takes up about a quarter the waterfront). The exhibits on shipwrecks, whaling and rum running are excellent. http://www.explorelunenburg.ca.

To Annapolis Royal. This town, founded in 1605, is one of the first European settlements in Canada and boasts more than 150 heritage buildings, among them the country's oldest wooden house (the deGannes-Crosby House), which is located on the country's oldest street (St. George Street). Fort Anne, the country's first designated National Historic site, is there as well. Originally built in 1629, it was fought over by the French and English for 100 years.

If time allows, take one of the daytime strolls or spooky candle-lit walks offered by the local Historical Association. Sampling the fine wine produced in the fertile Annapolis Valley is a fun alternative for oenophiles. Annapolis Royal is about 135 mi/220 km from Halifax on beautiful Highway 101. http://www.annapolisroyal.com.

By land or water there are many ways to see the city. Ambassatours Gray Line, for instance, operates motor coaches, trolleys and double-decker buses. When you're ready to hit the harbor (an absolute must), outfits such as Murphy's Cable Wharf can take you out on anything from a tall ship to a faux Mississippi River paddle wheeler.

Local guides are well-informed and, like Haligonians as a whole, exceedingly friendly. Be advised, though, that most tours operate seasonally—typically May or June through mid-October.

Ambassatours Gray Line Tours 3790 Mackintosh St. Known as "the company with the kilts" because guides don Scottish Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3K 5A6 garb, this operation offers a wide range of options. Mini and deluxe Halifax tours give a narrated look at civic highlights, while excursions to Phone: 902-423-6242 outlying areas include a three-hour trip to Peggy's Cove or six-hour http://www.ambassatours.com visits to the stunning South Shore (you'll see Mahone Bay and Lunenburg, hearing tales of rum running, ship building and loads of trivia en route) or the Annapolis Valley (showcasing the Bay of Fundy and the area's historic sites). Specialized tours—such as those dedicated to Titanic sites in Halifax or wine tastings in the Annapolis Valley—are also scheduled. Discounts for children, seniors, CAA or AAA members and groups. Tours begin in June. 3790 Mackintosh St., Halifax. Phone 902-423-6242. Toll-free 800-565-9662. http://www.ambassatours.com. Grape Escapes Nova Scotia Wine Tours Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada Choose from a downtown Halifax tour, a tour of the Benjamin Bridge 902-446-9463 Vineyard in Wolfville, or a South Shore tour which includes a stop at the Phone: Lunenburg UNESCO World Heritage site. The Halifax and Annapolis http://www.novascotiawinetours.com Valley region is known for its ice wines—try to visit when the grapes are harvested in February. Tours, tasting fees and lunch are included. Tours start at Can$120 adults and depart from the cruise terminal. Phone 902-446-9463. Toll-free 855-850-9463. http://www.novascotiawinetours.com.

McNab's Island Ferry Fisherman's Cove Captain Mike Tilley (also known as Captain Red Beard) entertains Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada tourists as he tours and transports to the three islands located in the outer reaches of the harbor. Can$20 adults. Fisherman's Cove (Eastern Phone: 902-465-4563 Passage), Halifax. Phone 902-465-4563 or 800-326-4563. Toll-free http://mcnabsisland.com 800-326-4563. http://mcnabsisland.com.

Murphy's Cable Wharf 1751 Lower Water St. Halifax's largest tour boat operator offers a variety of shore excursions Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 3E4 and water-bound outings. Try a paddleboat cruise aboard the Harbour Queen, nature and whale-watching tours on a two-story vessel with an Phone: 902-420-1015 open viewing deck or, for those seeking a more intense trip, a four-hour https://www.ambassatours.com deep-sea fishing tour. We love the moonlit and dinner cruises aboard the tall ships, but book early for those. Murphy's also operates the popular Harbor Hopper tour on an amphibious vehicle and the Theodore Too, a kid-oriented tour based on the popular PBS children's show of the same name. Grab a bite to eat at the on-site restaurant before or after your tour. Daily 11:30 am-8 pm. Cost of tours depends on duration and departure timeùthe 90-minute afternoon sailing cruise, for instance, is Can$30 adults. 1751 Lower Water St. (Cable Wharf at the foot of George Street), Halifax. Phone 902-420-1015. https://www.ambassatours.com.

The following itinerary calls for three days. If you have less time, try to see the Halifax Citadel, the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic and Pier 21; then take either a harbor cruise or a stroll through Halifax Public Gardens.

Day 1—Plan to spend most of the day walking. Begin at the Halifax Citadel National Historic Site, the city's top attraction. Afterward, walk from the Town Clock to St. Paul's Church, then down George Street to the Historic Properties, having lunch and browsing in the shops as you loop through. In the afternoon, continue along Lower Water Street to the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic. Exit via the dockside door, and enjoy a traditional meal at one of the harborfront eateries.

Day 2—Tour the harbor by boat in the morning (Murphy's Cable Wharf has the best selection) or, for an inexpensive variation on the theme, ride the commuter ferry to Dartmouth and back. Once you return to dry land, follow the boardwalk to its southern terminus. Dip into the Seaport Farmers Market for a quick bite, then keep walking along Marginal Road to the Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21. After seeing the exhibits, honor the immigrants' accomplishments by dining downtown at an ethnic restaurant.

Day 3—Start your day by visiting the Museum of Natural History and popping by the lush Public Gardens. Continue down Spring Garden Road to Barrington Street (order lunch en route at a food truck by the library), then turn right to see the Old Burying Ground. Next, head down Bishop Street. From there, you can go left on Hollis Street to see Province House and the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia or carry on to the Brewery Market for a sudsy tour of Alexander Keith's famed facility and a traditional dinner.

To help you make the most of your time, we've designed three different itineraries. PLAN A

Water, Water, Everywhere

To fully immerse yourself in Haligonian life, begin the day on the harborfront boardwalk. Bone up on the city's seafaring history at the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, then watch the tugboats work and the yachts bob as you meander north to the restored waterfront warehouses that collectively make up the Historic Properties. Afterward have a seafood lunch on the waterfront deck at Salty's or Murphy's at the Cable Wharf. It's so pleasant there that you may want to linger for the rest of the afternoon. But resist the temptation: A nautical adventure awaits you. Buy a return ticket on Metro Transit's no-frills Dartmouth Ferry (it serves 3,000 commuters a day) or splurge on a scenic sail aboard the Tall Ship Silva or the Mar, a 75-ft/23-m wooden ketch.

PLAN B

Peggy's Cove and Pretty Parks

First thing in the morning, hire a cab or rent a car so you'll reach Peggy's Cove before the tour buses do. Watch the seagulls soar and the fisherfolk tend to their boats. Walk as far as you safely can on the granite rocks or go back out to the main road and turn left, taking in the spectacular views of the headlands and camera-ready lighthouse. You may also consider stopping at the Swissair Flight 111 Memorial.

In the afternoon, take a kayak tour (several operators are based between there and the city). Otherwise, return to Halifax and buy picnic supplies for an alfresco lunch either in the flower-filled Public Gardens or on the grassy knoll that the Citadel occupies. Both are destinations in their own right, with the Citadel alone warranting several hours.

PLAN C

Artful Shopping and Museum Hopping

Start at the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia: Its collection has pieces from Canada and beyond, but regional folk art is the undisputed highlight (the whimsical works of Maud Lewis—Canada's Grandma Moses—are particularly appealing). Browse the gallery's lovely gift shop. Next, walk north to the Anna Leonowens Gallery where you can ogle the always-innovative items made by students at the prestigious Nova Scotia College of Art and Design.

After lunch outside the gallery on Granville Mall, you can focus on buying the quality arts and one-of-a-kind crafts for which Nova Scotia is famous. To facilitate your treasure hunt, grab a free copy of the Halifax Art Map (available at visitor centers or online at http://www.halifaxartmap.com). It will show you where to shop for the very best local goods.

DINING

Dining Overview

Seafood has always been king in Nova Scotia: After all, the surrounding sea yields sweet mussels, plump Digby scallops, a wide variety of delicious fish and fresh lobster all year-round. Better yet, it's prepared in myriad ways. That means you can go old-school with boiled lobster dipped in butter, simple planked salmon and deep-fried fish-and-chips, or opt for gourmet crustacean creations that are prepared with international flair. Either way, if you stroll along the waterfront, you're certain to find great spots for an unforgettable meal.

For a memorable dining experience that's a tradition in Atlantic Canada, head out to one of the famous lobster suppers. These happen daily for the entire summer season. Don't expect fine dining and don't wear your best shirt (lobster juice drips everywhere), but do expect tasty home cooking in a convivial atmosphere.

When it's fast food you're craving, you'll find seafood again features prominently on the menu. In summer, even the local McDonald's outlets sell McLobster Rolls. But if you need a break from all things fishy, sample that other local specialty, the donair. A variation of a gyro, it consists of spiced meat, tomatoes, onions and hot peppers doused in a sweet garlic sauce, all wrapped in pita bread. Careful— these are messy.

Locals generally eat lunch noon-1:30 pm and dinner 5:30-7:30 pm.

Expect to pay within these guidelines for a meal for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than Can$15; $$ = Can$15-$25; $$$ = Can$26-$40; $$$$ = more than Can$40.

Brooklyn Warehouse 2795 Windsor St. This must have been someone's house in a previous life; now it's a Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3K5E3 hipster bistro with an Asian bent. Try the lobster chowder: lemon-butter Nova Scotia lobster, Chedabucto Bay shrimp and seviche scallops Phone: 902-446-8181 delightfully simmer in a basil-coconut broth. The cheeseburger, made http://brooklynwarehouse.ca from Getaway Farms free-range beef, Brother's Smoked Back bacon, P.E.I. cheddar and served on Challah bread, is another crowd pleaser. Be sure to order it with the triple-fried French fries—they're some of the best we've ever tasted. Monday-Saturday 11:30 am-3:30 pm for lunch, Monday-Thursday 4:30-9 pm, Friday and Saturday 4:30-10 pm for dinner. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 2795 Windsor St., Halifax. Phone 902-446-8181. http://brooklynwarehouse.ca.

Elements on Hollis 1181 Hollis St. Next door to the Halifax Farmers Market, this restaurant makes a point Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3H 2P6 to source all of its ingredients within a 50-mi/80-km radius, and some of the world's best seafood and produce can be found in this range. Start Phone: 902-496-7960 with the rosemary "brioche in a can," adapted from an Acadian spoon https://www.elementsonhollis.com bread recipe. Then move on to salted cod cakes or beer-battered haddock fillets made with Garrison Brewery IPA. Monday-Wednesday 6- 11 am, Thursday-Saturday 6 am-10 pm, Sunday 6 am-2 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 1181 Hollis St., Halifax. Phone 902-496-7960. https://www.elementsonhollis.com.

Five Fishermen Restaurant and Grill 1740 Argyle St. This landmark spot has a street-level grill and a fine-dining restaurant Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada áB3J-2B6 above. Both serve quality seafood, and they share one of the city's most extensive wine cellars. At the restaurant, try the surf 'n' turf of Angus Phone: 902-422-4421 beef and Nova Scotia lobster tail or the giant-sized Digby scallops (all http://www.fivefishermen.com. entrees come with complimentary salad and mussels). Downstairs at the grill you can order from a more casual menu or simply fill up during the daily Oyster Happy Hour (4:30-6:30 pm). Ask the staff about the building's Titanic connection—it's quite a story. Sunday-Thursday 5-9 pm, Friday and Saturday 5-10 pm. Reservations recommended upstairs. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. 1740 Argyle St., Halifax. Phone 902-422-4421. http://www.fivefishermen.com.

Fries & Company 2603 Connolly St. This place lives up to its motto: "We fry our best." For almost 30 years, it has been frying up the freshest seafood from its West End location. Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada áB3L Burgers, fries and amazing onion rings round out the menu. It's not 3M4á fancy, but it's good. Monday-Thursday 11 am-8 pm, Friday and Phone: 902-455-5250 Saturday 11 am-9 pm, Sunday noon-8 pm. $-$$. 2603 Connolly St., http://www.friesnco.com Halifax. Phone 902-455-5250. http://www.friesnco.com.

Salty's 1877 Upper Water St. Go for fresh seafood and one of the best views of the harbor—whether Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 1S9 you're indoors or dining dockside. Upstairs the menu focuses on the traditional choices (think lobster thermador or baked salmon) but dishes Phone: 902-423-6818 such as scallops in Thai curry sauce add international flavor. Simpler http://www.saltys.ca fare, including crab cakes and fish-and-chips, is served downstairs. Daily from 11:30 for lunch, from 5 pm for dinner. Reservations recommended upstairs. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 1877 Upper Water St. (Historic Properties), Halifax. Phone 902-423-6818. http://www.saltys.ca.

Stories at the Halliburton 5184 Morris St. From sea scallops to forest mushrooms to bison Carpaccio, this place has Canadian cuisine pretty much covered—and that's just the Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 1B3 appetizers. Seafood, game and local produce also feature prominently Phone: 902-444-4400 in other courses. The dining room is tucked into a historic inn and the http://www.storiesdining.com ambience is perfect for date night. Tuesday-Saturday 5-9 pm. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 5184 Morris St. (in The Halliburton), Halifax. Phone 902-444-4400. http://www.storiesdining.com.

The Press Gang 5218 Prince St. History surrounds you in one of the city's oldest buildings, dating from Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada 1759. Exposed stone walls, wood beams, weathered hardwood floors and oversized fireplaces provide the backdrop for Canadian haute Phone: 902-423-8816 cuisine. Duck breast, rack of lamb and all manner of seafood can be http://thepressgang.net washed down with wine from the well-stocked cellar. Lighter fare is dished up at the restaurant's Oyster Bar—and whichever part of the restaurant you choose to dine in, make sure you sample a few oysters. Sunday-Wednesday 5-10 pm, Thursday-Saturday 5 pm-midnight. $$$- $$$$. 5218 Prince St., Halifax. Phone 902-423-8816. http://thepressgang.net.

American

Darrell's on Fenwick 5576 Fenwick St. This joint knows how to turn a beef patty and bun into a thing of beauty, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3H 1P8 which is why it's the many-time winner of The Coast's "Best Burger in Halifax" title. If you like the unusual, ask your server about the peanut Phone: 902-492-2344 butter burger. Pita wraps and sandwiches are equally good. Full of http://www.darrellsrestaurants.com surprises (and people), it's a great place to grab a hearty lunch. Daily 11 am-10 pm. $. Most major credit cards. 5576 Fenwick St., Halifax. Phone 902-492-2344. http://www.darrellsrestaurants.com.

Edna 2053 Gottingen St. The latest installment from Jane's of the Common is a tapas concept Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3K 3B2 from Jane's daughter, Jenna Mooers. Its name comes from the 20th- century Pulitzer Prize winning poet Edna St. Vincent Millay, and the Phone: 902-431-5683 decor is an ode to the 1920s. Think cheese platters, charcuterie, fresh http://ednarestaurant.com oysters and other foods meant for sharing. Tuesday-Thursday and Sunday 5-10 pm, Friday 5-11 pm, Saturday 10 am-11 pm, Sunday 10 am-2:30 pm. Reservations not accepted. $$$. Most major credit cards. 2053 Gottingen St., Halifax. Phone 902-431-5683. http://ednarestaurant.com.

Cheelin 1496 Lower Water St. Informal, affordable Beijing and Szechuan cuisine. The eggplant stuffed Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 1R9 with vegetables and shrimp in yu-xiang sauce is especially good. There's a solid selection of soups and noodle dishes, too. Monday- Phone: 902-422-2252 Saturday 11:30 am-2:30 pm and 5-10 pm, Sunday 5-10 pm. http://www.cheelinrestaurant.ca Reservations recommended. $-$$. Most major credit cards. 1496 Lower Water St. (in the Brewery Market), Halifax. Phone 902-422-2252. http://www.cheelinrestaurant.ca.

Talay Thai 1300 Hollis St. A favorite among locals, it serves authentic Thai food in an equally Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J lY2 authentic atmosphere. The menu is huge (a plus for vegetarians), so have fun trying to narrow your selection down. Make sure your order Phone: 902-404-3700 includes the satay chicken and stir-fried prawns in tamarind sauce. Daily http://www.talaythaihalifax.ca 11:30 am-10 pm. $. Most major credit cards. 1300 Hollis St., Halifax. Phone 902-404-3700. http://www.talaythaihalifax.ca.

Chives Canadian Bistro 1537 Barrington St. This popular French-style bistro is housed in an old bank (the vault is now the wine cellar). The baked goat-cheese souffle with toasted Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 1Z4 walnuts, pear and pickled beets makes for a fine beginning; then move Phone: 902-420-9626 on to the P.E.I. short ribs with cremini mushrooms, Gouda hash and http://www.chives.ca buttermilk onion rings. The caramelized sea scallops with Atlantic lobster and sweet-pea risotto is another standout. Suggested wine pairings are offered along with each entree. Daily 5-9:30 pm. Reservations available. $$$. Most major credit cards. 1537 Barrington St., Halifax. Phone 902- 420-9626. http://www.chives.ca.

Gio 1725 Market St. Fine dining with a twist is an apt descriptor of this place: Think thick Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada lobster bisque spiced with Thai chiles; bacon-wrapped, bone-in chicken breast next to a mung-bean salad; and elk tenderloin with a chocolate Phone: 902-425-1987 jus. The cappuccino with maple syrup is the perfect Canadian finish. http://giohalifax.com Paintings and glassware sourced by local artists set a lovely scene. Monday-Friday 11:30 am-10 pm, Saturday 5-10 pm. Reservations available. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. 1725 Market St. (in the St. George Hotel), Halifax. Phone 902-425-1987. http://giohalifax.com. da Maurizio 1496 Lower Water St. Located in the Brewery Market, da Maurizio is one of the city's most elegant Italian restaurants—with prices to match. The food is tempting Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 1R7 and rich, and the ambience is warm but sophisticated. Although the Phone: 902-423-0859 menu specializes in Northern Italian dishes, it is constantly changing, http://www.damaurizio.ca with recurring favorites such as pumpkin-filled ravioli, risotto with oven- roasted rabbit and a divine lobster-topped veal scaloppini. A specialty wine list contains hard-to-find vintages. Monday-Saturday 5-10 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 1496 Lower Water St. (in the Brewery Market), Halifax. Phone 902-423-0859. http://www.damaurizio.ca.

The Bicycle Thief 1475 Lower Water St. The latest collaboration from the team that started da Maurizio, its casually elegant decor is enticing—and so is the food. Try spinach Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 3Z2 lasagna layered with lamb ragu or ravioli stuffed with lobster. The bar Phone: 902-425-7993 has a salumi board and other nice nibbles. Daily from 11:30 am. http://bicyclethief.ca Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 1475 Lower Water St., Halifax. Phone 902-425-7993. http://bicyclethief.ca.

Cafe Istanbul 5986 Spring Garden Road This intimate restaurant is a true Turkish delight. Start with delicious hot or cold appetizers and follow up with one (or more) of the kebabs. The Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3K 1Y7 nicely priced set menu gives you a taste of many items. Monday and Phone: 902-405-4028 Tuesday 11 am-8 pm, Wednesday-Friday 11 am-9 pm, Saturday and http://www.efesturkishcuisin.com Sunday noon-8 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 5986 Spring Garden Road, Halifax. Phone 902-405-4028. http://www.efesturkishcuisin.com.

Shiraz 1240 Hollis St. This tiny mom-and-pop Persian eatery only seats 12 people, but it's a hit Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 1T6 with in-the-know locals. The samosas are sublime, as are the wraps and kebabs. Daily 11 am-9 pm. $-$$. Most major credit cards. 1240 Hollis Phone: 902-404-3300 St., Halifax. Phone 902-404-3300. http://www.shirazfood.ca. http://www.shirazfood.ca

Vegetarian

Heartwood Bakery and Cafe 6250 Quinpool Road This place focuses on the natural state of food, and it prides itself on Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3L 1A3 being Halifax's only vegan restaurant. Choose between sustaining soups, salads, rice bowls and pizzas, or indulge at the all-day Saturday Phone: 902-425-2808 brunch with the organic spelt waffles served with blueberry sauce and http://www.heartwoodbakerycafe.ca fruit salad. You can also take treats home from the bakery. Monday- Saturday 10 am-8 pm. $-$$. 6250 Quinpool Road, Halifax. Phone 902- 425-2808. http://www.heartwoodbakerycafe.ca.

The Wooden Monkey 1707 Grafton St. Catering to a clientele that's more hipster than hippie, it relies on local, organic and macrobiotic ingredients. The menu isn't exclusively Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada vegetarian, but there are enough options in every course category to Phone: 902-444-3844 satisfy vegetarian appetites. The tofu-vegetable dumplings and lentil http://www.thewoodenmonkey.ca burgers are especially noteworthy. Sunday, Tuesday and Wednesday 11:30 am-9 pm, Thursday-Saturday 11:30 am-10 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 1707 Grafton St., Halifax. Phone 902-444-3844. http://www.thewoodenmonkey.ca.

Sweet Hereafter 6148 Quinpool Road Haligonians swear by Chef Colin's confections. He whips up a dizzying Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3L 1A3 array of regular, gluten-free and vegan cheesecakes daily. With such rich flavors as strawberry shortcake, black forest, lemon poppyseed, Phone: 902-404-8001 autumn apple and white-chocolate mint, it's easy to see why—but hard http://www.sweethereafter.ca to narrow your choices. Live music Thursday evenings. Monday- Wednesday noon-10 pm, Thursday-Saturday noon-11 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. 6148 Quinpool Road, Halifax. Phone 902-404-8001. http://www.sweethereafter.ca.

Jane's Next Door 2053 Gottingen St. Jane's On the Common, the popular Robie Street bistro, is now closed, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3K 3B2 but you can still enjoy Jane Wright's sandwiches, pastries and prepared entrees at this small takeout site on Gottingen Street. Wright uses beans Phone: 902-431-5697 from Java Blend Coffee Roasters in her tasty line of espresso drinks. http://janesonthecommon.com/nextdoor Monday-Friday 8 am-6 pm. $. Most major credit cards. 2053 Gottingen St., Halifax. Phone 902-431-5697. http://janesonthecommon.com/nextdoor.

Java Blend Coffee Roasters 6027 North St. Since 1938, this locally owned roastery has been waking up Halifax with its aromatic blends. It uses fair-trade beans from Guatemala and roasts Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3K 1N9 them in-house. The resulting cuppa tastes as good as it smells. Phone: 902-423-6944 Monday-Friday 6:30 am-6 pm, Saturday 7:30 am-5 pm, Sunday 9 am- http://www.javablendcoffee.com 4:30 pm. $. Most major credit cards. 6027 North St., Halifax. Phone 902- 423-6944. http://www.javablendcoffee.com.

King of Donair 6422 Quinpool Road Late-night cravings haven't been the same for Haligonians since 1973, when this mom-and-pop shop opened. Forget poutine and try the grilled Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada pita filled with spicy beef and topped with a fantastically messy donair Phone: 902-421-0000 sauce, made from condensed milk and garlic powder. Daily 11 am-3:30 http://www.kingofdonair.ca am. $. Most major credit cards. 6422 Quinpool Road, Halifax. Phone 902-421-0000. http://www.kingofdonair.ca.

Ryan Duffy's 1650 Bedford Road Started as a speakeasy, this classic steak house is much loved by Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 1T2 locals. Choose your own cut at the table (the steak is aged in-house) and the chef will cook it according to your request. Surf-and-turf specials Phone: 902-421-1116 prove the kitchen is adept at preparing seafood, too. Note that as a http://www.ryanduffys.ca hotel restaurant, it also serves breakfast dishes—steak and eggs included. Monday-Friday 6:30 am-10 pm, Saturday and Sunday 7 am- 10 pm. Reservations recommended for dinner. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. 1650 Bedford Road (at the Radisson Hotel), Halifax. Phone 902-421-1116. http://www.ryanduffys.ca.

SECURITY

Personal Safety

Crime is, unfortunately, on the rise in outlying parts of the Halifax Regional Municipality (HRM), such as Spryfield and East Preston as well as some Dartmouth neighborhoods—all of which are well off the tourist tracks. Even on the Halifax Peninsula, however, you should take precautions. Watch your cash and credit cards, try to avoid ATMs after dark, and don't walk alone late at night, especially around Halifax Common or the North End. Be wary in the downtown entertainment district, too: It can get rowdy Thursday-Saturday nights during the university term when students flood out of closing clubs. Don't underestimate weather conditions when planning outdoor activities. Avoid Peggy's Cove on rainy days—and wave-wetted rocks there at any time. More than one tourist has fallen from its slippery granite shelf to the swirling water below. Rainy weather, snow and rising tides also can pose serious consequences for hikers on the Atlantic shore. If unsure, consult an outfitting company before setting out. Even if they're not supplying your gear, they'll be more than happy to help you avoid an accident.

Sunscreen and mosquito repellent are recommended during the summer months.

Hospital and medical services are excellent in Halifax. Emergency care is provided on a priority basis, so if your condition isn't life- threatening you should be prepared for a wait. As in the U.S., all emergency assistance in Canada can be reached by dialing 911. Good medical care is available in most places throughout the province.

Hospital emergency departments are located at the Queen Elizabeth II Health Sciences Centre's Camp Hill location (New Halifax Infirmary, 1797 Robie St., Halifax; phone 902-473-2700) and Dartmouth General (325 Pleasant St., Dartmouth; phone 902-465-8300). Emergency care is available 24 hours a day. http://www.cdha.nshealth.ca.

The IWK Health Centre, a health center for families, has an emergency department for children younger than 16 (or 19 with a mental health need). The entrance is on South Street (near Robie Street) across from Gorsebrook Junior High School. Phone 902-470-8050. http://www.iwk.nshealth.ca.

For nonemergency health concerns, call 811 (the number for the province's Healthlink program) to speak with a registered nurse. Alternately, you can visit a Family Focus medical clinic. These accept walk-ins and same-day appointments. Clinics are located in Halifax at the Professional Centre at 5991 Spring Garden Road, Suite 102 and in the Atlantic Superstore at 3601 Joseph Howe Drive; in Dartmouth at 240 Baker Drive; and in suburban Lower Sackville in the Atlantic Superstore at 667 Sackville Drive. Open Monday-Friday 8:30 am-9 pm, Saturday 11 am-5 pm (Sunday and holidays 11 am-5 pm at Spring Garden Road and Lower Sackville only). Phone 902- 420-6060 to reach any location. http://www.thefamilyfocus.ca.

For details on other walk-in clinics in the area, visit http://www.doctorsns.com/en/home/healthcarefacilitiesandservices/walkinclinics.aspx#halifax.

Increased awareness has made Halifax a great destination for those with special needs. Major points of entry (the airport, cruise terminal and train station among them) are all fully accessible, as are most attractions and even several nature trails. With that said, downtown's hilly terrain can prove daunting for those with mobility issues. Some shops and services located in heritage buildings can also pose challenges.

The single best source for information is the "Accessibility" section of the Halifax Regional Municipality website. http://www.halifax.ca/accessibility/index.html.

When making arrangements for accommodations, ACCESS Canada can help you choose a place best suited to your specific requirements. Phone 902-425-5781. Toll-free 800-565-0000. http://www.novascotia.com/en/home/accommodations/accesscanada.aspx.

The Canadian Paraplegic Association (Nova Scotia) offers more helpful online information, including a Web page dedicated to "Transportation and Travel." http://www.thespine.ca/resources.

If you use a wheelchair or scooter and plan to use local transit, contact Metro Transit's Access-A-Bus service for information (phone 902- 490-4000; http://www.halifax.ca/metrotransit/access_a_bus.html). Wheelchair-accessible buses are designated by a wheelchair graphic on the streetside bus stops.

Do taste regional dishes such as Hodge Podge (a stew of fresh beans, peas, carrots and baby potatoes, cooked in cream), Solomon Gundy (a pickled-herring pate) and Blueberry Grunt (a fruity, dumplinglike dessert).

Don't believe the myth that a ship is buried under the Halifax Citadel. The flag mast atop the hill was originally used to signal ship-traffic conditions in the harbor and send coded messages across the water to York Redoubt.

Do ride the Metro Transit Commuter Ferry. Launched in 1752, it is North America's oldest, continuously operating saltwater ferry service. On a sunny day, you can sit topside and enjoy a 360-degree harbor view.

Don't forget that all of Canada uses the metric measurement system—particularly if you're taking a road trip. Speed limits and distance signs are posted in kilometers and gasoline is sold in liters.

Do visit Halifax in the off-season when crowds dwindle and hotel costs go down. Just bear in mind that some popular activities—such as boat tours—are only available during warmer months. Some sights and eateries also have reduced hours.

Don't miss your plane home by leaving yourself insufficient time at the airport. Travelers flying directly back to the U.S. are required to preclear U.S. customs before departing, and the process can be lengthy.

Do experience the city's vibrant pub culture: The beer is cold and the traditional live music is invariably hot. If you want to feel like a real Haligonian, simply raise your glass and randomly shout the word "sociable." FACTS

Geostats

Passport/Visa Requirements: All U.S. citizens must have a passport when traveling by air to or from Bermuda, Canada, the Caribbean, Central and South America and Mexico. Citizens of Canada, Mexico and the British Overseas Territory of Bermuda also must have a passport or other designated secure document to enter the U.S. Passports are required for land crossings at the Canadian and Mexican borders with the U.S. and for cruise passengers returning to the U.S. from Mexico, the Caribbean, Canada or Bermuda. Reconfirm travel-document requirements with your carrier prior to departure.

Population: 390,096.

Languages: English, although Canada has two official languages, English and French.

Predominant Religions: Christian.

Time Zone: 4 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time (-4 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is observed from the second Sunday in March to the first Sunday in November.

Voltage Requirements: 110 volts.

Telephone Codes: 902, area code;

Currency Exchange

ATMs are plentiful, and they accept most major credit cards and bank cards. Look for them outside banks, inside gas stations and convenience stores, and at shopping malls. Note that gray machines typically tack on a larger service fee. If you need to exchange currency, it's most convenient to do so at any bank. Banking hours vary by branch and company. Some locations extend their hours to Monday-Friday evenings, as well as Saturday and Sunday.

U.S. dollars are accepted in many places, but you will receive change in Canadian currency. Stores usually post the exchange rates they are using near the cash registers.

There's a 15% Harmonized Sales Tax (HST) on most goods and services sold in Nova Scotia, which is added to the advertised price at the point of purchase. At hotels, an additional 2% municipal lodging tax is added to the HST.

The federal government administers a tax rebate program that offers tax incentives for foreign group, convention and package travelers. For details, contact Canada Customs and Revenue Agency, 275 Pope Road, Suite 104, Summerside, PE C1N 6C6, Canada. Phone 902- 432-5608. http://www.ccra-adrc.gc.ca/visitors.

A tip of at least 15% in restaurants is customary (go to 20% if the service was outstanding). In hotels, the accepted amount is Can$5 per day for the cleaning staff. Taxi drivers usually get tipped 15% of your total fare. Service providers (bellhops, hairdressers, drivers) also expect the same gratuity. The customary tip for tour guides and motorcoach drivers is Can$1-$2 per day, per person.

Weather

Proximity to the Gulf Stream moderates the weather in Halifax. The city is at its best late May to mid-October. Early fall is particularly beautiful as the leaves begin to change color. Summer can be quite warm and humid, with occasional days reaching 90 F/32 C. Expect average summer highs of 61-75 F/16-24 C. Evening fog often comes in on summer nights to cool things off, so be sure to take a sweater or jacket with you. Always pack an umbrella; it rains an average of 4 in/10 cm each month. Spring and fall temperatures average about 10 degrees F/5 degrees C cooler than summer readings. Halifax winters are warm by Nova Scotia standards, but because the wind is damp, it can feel raw. Temperatures range 15-32 F/-8 to 0 C in January, and snow frequently turns to freezing rain.

Like Canada's other Atlantic cities, Halifax is relatively relaxed, with casual clothes acceptable in all but the poshest restaurants. For an evening out in one of the many nightclubs or the casino, dress ranges from jeans to dressy casual. Sweaters are often worn in place of a sport coat, but men should still have a tie visible at the neck when visiting upscale establishments. Some places still have a "no running shoes, no jeans" policy in effect, so call ahead if that's a concern. Thanks to the Gulf Stream, Halifax enjoys more moderate temperatures than the rest of the province. The city is almost directly parallel to Portland, Maine, and experiences climate conditions similar to those in London and Brussels. For summer sightseeing, you'll want light, casual clothing, plus a hat to protect against the sun. Halifax is known for early-morning mist, which usually burns off before noon, so even if it seems chilly in the morning, summer days can get very hot. Carry a sweater or jacket, however, as cool Atlantic breezes off the harbor are common and make the air feel colder. In the fall and spring, pants and long sleeves accompanied by a light jacket are usually sufficient. For winter visits to Halifax, you'll need boots, gloves and a hat along with a warm winter coat.

Most businesses across Canada have adopted casual-dress Friday, relaxing the conservative attire found in larger centers. For such business functions as seminars and presentations, business-casual attire is usually acceptable. For more formal meetings, conservative suits or dresses are expected.

Telephone

Local, long-distance and international calls can be made from public pay phones using coins, a credit card or a phone card. You can purchase phone cards at many downtown retail outlets.

To call Halifax from the U.S., dial 1, Halifax's area code, 902, plus the seven-digit telephone number. If you're calling from outside the U.S. and Canada, first dial your country's international access code, then Canada's country code, 1, and then 902. To make a local call with the Halifax Regional Municipality, simply dial the seven-digit number. To phone other destinations in Nova Scotia, elsewhere in Canada or in the U.S, dial 1-902 first. To place a call abroad from Halifax, dial 011, then the country code, area or city code and number.

Toll-free numbers begin with 800, 866, 877 or 888. Directory assistance is 411; emergency is 911. For assistance, dial 0 for the operator.

Mobile phones served by major providers will work in Halifax, and there's no issue with local coverage. Costs are another matter. Roaming charges will set U.S. plan holders back at least Can$1 a minute, and data charges mount quickly. One way around them is to ask your provider to temporarily add Canadian access to your current service plan before you cross the border. Another is to take an "unlocked" cell phone and buy a local SIM card for use on your trip. SIM cards are sold in cell phone shops and other retailers; they can also be purchased in advance through such companies as Mobal (http://www.mobal.com) and Cellular Abroad (http://www.cellularabroad.com).

Those looking for free Internet access usually head to the Halifax Regional Library on Spring Garden Road. However, there are several Internet cafes in the downtown area that will let you sip a cup of java while you browse the Web or check your email. The Wired Monk at 5147 Morris St., Uncommon Grounds at 1030 S. Park St. and Second Cup at 5425 Spring Garden Road all offer Wi-Fi.

Most hotels also provide Wi-Fi free or for a nominal charge. You can also access free Wi-Fi the moment you touch down at the Halifax Stanfield International Airport (YHZ). It is the first major airport in Canada to provide complimentary wireless Internet services. For more options, check the exhaustive listings at http://www.jiwire.com.

Post Office 1680 Bedford Row There are postal outlets in most major shopping centers, and virtually all Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 1T0 convenience stores sell stamps. You can look up a place you'll be visiting on the postal system's website, but you must know the postal Phone: 902-494-4670 code, as locations are listed that way. Monday-Friday 9 am-5 pm. 1680 http://www.canadapost.ca Bedford Row, Halifax. Phone 902-494-4670. http://www.canadapost.ca.

The most commonly read newspaper in Halifax is The Chronicle Herald, a provincial broadsheet. You can buy it at any newsstand, at pharmacies and at grocery and convenience stores (http://thechronicleherald.ca). The Coast is a free alternative tabloid printed on Thursday that can be picked up in many cafes and corner stores around town. It also has detailed daily events listings online. http://www.thecoast.ca.

Nova Scotian magazines are full of local flavor. Saltscapes covers topics ranging from how to build a screen door or make a great cup of tea to informed articles on social and political trends in the region. It also has travel articles highlighting off-the-beaten-path Maritime destinations. Archived issues can be found online. http://saltscapes.com.

For tips on dining, check out A Taste of Nova Scotia: Culinary Experience Guide or WHERE Magazine. Pick them up for free at any tourist-information center. For reliable information on the province as a whole, your best resource is the comprehensive Doers and Dreamers guide, published annually by Nova Scotia Tourism.

Transportation

If you want to see Halifax on your own, it's best to grab a cab, take public transit or proceed on foot—parking is hard to find within the city center. Walking is a good way to get around the downtown core. The historic streets are scenic, and a system of covered walkways connects several key buildings, permitting visitors to stay inside when necessary; on the downside, steep hills around the Citadel can be daunting.

The bus system in Halifax is also a convenient option, and taxis are easy to find. You may only want to rent a car for day trips outside of town.

Air

Stanfield Intl (YHZ) 1 Bell Blvd, Enfield

The management of the Halifax Stanfield International Airport (YHZ) is Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B2T 1K2 taken over by Halifax International Airport Authority since February 1, Phone: 902--873-4422 2000. The airport map available in this link http://www.hiaa.ca https://halifaxstanfield.ca/directions-maps/ enables the traveling passengers to get a view of the location of airport terminals. Air Canada, Air Saint-Pierre, Jazz, Swoop, Porter are some regular scheduled airlines servicing at the airport. It provides flight services to Canada, the United States, the Caribbean Basin, Europe, Asia, and the Middle East. According to the 2017 statistics report, the airport generates $3 billion to the provincial economy by serving over 4 million passengers annually and processing more than 34,000 metric tons of cargo. It is the first airport in North America to offer a self-service baggage drop system for all passengers.

Security Policing at the airport is undertaken by the Halifax Regional Police who provide an armed response to security breaches with explosive- detection dogs and handlers. The Canadian Air Transport Security Authority (CATSA) is responsible for pre-board security screening. Reach the airport at least 2 hours before a flight for clearing the security process without rushing. It is recommended to leave your bags unlocked for inspection purposes. The restrictions on luggage size/volume vary according to different airlines; Carry a valid ID proof, passport, and visa (if applicable) at all times. Sharp objects such as scissors knives, razors, etc. are not allowed in the carry-on luggage. Screening may be a combination of manual and mechanical searches using devices such as metal detectors and X-ray machines, which are proven safe for pregnant women, children, and for people with metal/synthetic implants. All electronic items will have to be turned on at the security screening counter. The Canadian Food Inspection Agency (CFIA) checks the food that is brought into the country to prevent the transportation of bacteria, viruses or pests that could harm Canadian agriculture.

Drones operating around aircraft and airports are of serious safety risks. It is against the law for a drone to be flown within 5.6 km of the airport. Passengers can call at 873-6911 to report all suspicious activity.

Connecting Transportation Car rental companies such as Alamo, Avis, Budget, Hertz, National, and Thrifty are located on the lower level of the airport parking. Taxi and limo services are available outside the arrivals area. A one-way trip to the city center will cost you $64. Need-A-Lift and TJ's Transport services offer wheelchair accessible bus and taxi rides to and from the airport to the nearby destinations. To avail the service, a reservation must be made at least 24 hours in advance. MetroX bus service is available from downtown to the airport. Line 320 operates from 6 AM - 9 AM once every 30 minutes and from 3 PM to 6 PM once every 60 minutes. $3.50 is the fare for adults and students; and for children/seniors, it is $2.75. You can also buy a monthly pass from the Transport booth located in the arrivals area for $111. Maritime Bus provides buses to more than 40 locations, including to and from the airport. Seasonal shuttle buses operate to and from the airport only between May 1st and October 31st to handle excess tourist population. A one-way ticket is $22, and the round-trip is priced at $40. Other shuttle buses also operate from the airport to Sydney, Truro, Annapolis Valley, Yarmouth, and Prince Edward Island.

Maritime Bus Company The terminal is at the VIA Rail train This company provides daily and twice-daily service between Halifax station, 1161 Hollis St. and many Nova Scotian cities. The terminal is at the VIA Rail train station, 1161 Hollis St., Halifax. Phone 902-429-2029. Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada http://www.maritimebus.com. Phone: 902-429-2029 http://www.maritimebus.com

When driving in Halifax, be on the lookout for traffic signals that are on the side of the road, not overhead. It's advisable to be very careful at all intersections in the city. A series of highways and secondary roads can take you outside the city. These are usually in good condition, although they can be a little rough in the spring thaw.

In Halifax, it is legal to turn right on a red light after coming to a complete stop. Unless otherwise posted, the city speed limit is 30 mph/50 kph; highway speed limit is 60 mph/100 kph. Seat belt use is mandatory, and driving under the influence of drugs or alcohol is illegal. Using a hand-held cellular device while driving is also against the law.

Two toll bridges span the harbor between Halifax and Dartmouth: The A. Murray Mackay Bridge and the Angus L. Macdonald Bridge (https://www.hdbc.ca). The toll for most passenger vehicles is Can$1 one direction. The Macdonald Bridge, connecting downtown Dartmouth to downtown Halifax, is also open to pedestrians and bicyclists at no charge. Drivers can avoid bridge congestion at peak times by skirting the Bedford Basin.

Your best bet for parking is a parking garage, where hourly prices range Can$2-$3. Many hotels also offer parking for guests. Street parking can be tough to find on sunny days when everyone heads downtown, and it is always challenging around the universities on weekdays September-April. The most touristed parts of the city have color-coded street meters to signify different lengths of time available to park; yellow allows three to five hours, green is two hours, silver and gray are 90 minutes, and red are 30 minutes. Each costs Can$0.50 per half-hour. Meters are operational in Halifax Monday-Friday 8 am-6 pm and in Dartmouth Monday-Friday 9 am-6 pm.

Note that licensed individuals can drive a car in Nova Scotia at age 16; however, you must be 21 years of age to rent a car there. All motorists must carry owner registration and proof of insurance coverage (the Canadian Non-Resident Inter-Provincial Motor Vehicle Liability Insurance Card, available from any U.S. insurance company, is accepted as the latter).

Halifax-Dartmouth Ferry Service Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3J 3A5 This is a 12-minute ride between Halifax and Dartmouth, with boats 902-490-4000 leaving from the terminal at Historic Properties in Halifax, at the foot of Phone: George Street. The Dartmouth ferry terminal is on Alderney Drive at the http://www.halifax.ca/metrotransit foot of Queen Street, while another ferry sails between Halifax and Woodside (south Dartmouth) Monday-Friday, peak hours only. Monday- Friday 7 am-7 pm, Saturday 10 am-4 pm, Sunday 1-5 pm. Can$2.25 adults, Can$1.50 children and seniors, one way. Phone 902-490-4000. http://www.halifax.ca/metrotransit.

Fred Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada The Downtown Halifax Business Commission offers a complimentary 902-423-6658 hop-on, hop-off bus service through the downtown core July to mid- Phone: October. The service, called FRED (Free Rides Everywhere Downtown), http://www.downtownhalifax.ns.ca makes its 40-minute circuit daily 10:30 am-5 pm. Phone 902-423-6658. http://www.downtownhalifax.ns.ca.

Metro Transit Buses Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada Halifax's bus system is clean, safe and efficient, and the city is well covered. There are wheelchair-accessible buses as well. When you dial Phone: 902-490-4000 480 and the four-digit number printed on any bus stop, a recording will http://www.halifax.ca/metrotransit tell you when the next bus is scheduled to arrive there. It is very accurate. Daily 6 am-11 pm. Can$2.75 adults. Phone 902-490-4000. http://www.halifax.ca/metrotransit. Cruise ships dock at Pavilions 20, 22 and 23, which are south of downtown but within easy walking distance— it's a nice stroll along the waterfront. The farmers market (open for every cruise ship) is nearby, as is the must- see Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21. Cruise Halifax is a helpful resource for passengers. Phone 902-426-8222. http://www.cruisehalifax.ca. Taxi service is good and relatively inexpensive. If you want a cab in downtown Halifax, hail one on the street or head for a regular taxi stand (in front of nightclubs and hotels); elsewhere you can simply order one by phone.

Reputable companies include Casino Taxi (phone 902-429-6666 or 902-425-6666; http://www.casinotaxi.ns.ca) and Yellow Cab (phone 902-420-0000 or 902-422-1551). Rates start at Can$3 and increase based on mileage and minutes.

VIA Rail 1161 Hollis St. Connects Halifax to Montreal six times per week, with connections to other points in Canada. Wi-Fi is available in the station. Maritime Bus Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada B3H 2P6 and VIA Rail Canada both operate out of VIA Rail stations in Halifax, http://www.viarail.ca Truro and Moncton. Passengers are able to book joint train and motorcoach trips on VIA Rail's website. 1161 Hollis St. (adjoining the Westin Nova Scotian Hotel), Halifax. Toll-free 888-842-7245 for information. http://www.viarail.ca.

For More Information

Tourist Offices

The provincial government maintains several Visitor Information Centers where you can grab maps and brochures or get useful advice about Nova Scotia. Within the Halifax Regional Municipality, you'll find locations at the airport (by the arrival gates, lower level; phone 902- 873-1223 or 902-873-1224) and on the downtown waterfront at Sackville Landing (1655 Lower Water St.; phone 902-424-4248). Both are open daily 9 am-5 pm, in summer 8:30 am-8 pm.

There's also an office at Peggy's Cove May to mid-October (109 Peggy's Point Road; phone 902-823-2253 or 902-823-2256).

Destination Halifax 1800 Argyle St., Suite 802 Destination Halifax is the tourism and marketing organization of the Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada municipality. It also has a customized guide for LGBT travelers, Rainbow Halifax, with a variety of resources and events listings Phone: 902-422-9334 (http://www.destinationhalifax.com/experience-halifax/lgbt). 1800 Argyle http://www.destinationhalifax.com St., Suite 802, Halifax. Phone 902-422-9334. Toll-free 877. http://www.destinationhalifax.com.

Halifax Regional Municipality Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada This is the local municipal government's visitors website. Find maps and http://www.destinationhalifax.com information on accommodation, tours, festivals and events. Daily noon- 10 pm. http://www.destinationhalifax.com.

Province of Nova Scotia Visitor Site 1869 Upper Water St. This website is designed to help you plan your trip to Nova Scotia, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada including travel guides, advice and free planning services. The provincial government also maintains several Visitor Information Centers Phone: 902-425-5781 throughout the province, including locations at the airport in Halifax, the http://www.novascotia.com Halifax Waterfront, Peggy's Cove and Yarmouth. 1869 Upper Water St., Halifax. Phone 902-425-5781. Toll-free 800-565-0000. http://www.novascotia.com.

EVENTS

Calendar Culturally rich Halifax boasts celebrations highlighting its heritage—Scottish, French, Greek, Italian and Lebanese—as well as plays and musicals at the Neptune Theatre, and lively festivals and classical concerts by Symphony Nova Scotia. Sports fans cheer on future National Hockey League hopefuls who take to the ice in Mooseheads games.

The city is known for its great festivals, including Natal Day in August and a New Year's Eve celebration at the Grand Parade. Halifax hosts the largest single-day Canada Day celebration east of Ottawa, and performers from all over the world gather on the waterfront in mid-August for the International Buskers Festival. Festivals for moviegoers, boat lovers and music fans ensure something is always happening in Halifax.

For detailed information about events in Halifax, check out Destination Halifax. Phone 902-422-9334. http://destinationhalifax.com.

To call any of the phone numbers listed in this calendar from outside the U.S. or Canada, you must first dial your country's international access code, followed by Canada's country code, 1.

Information in this calendar is subject to change and should be confirmed.