Storied Mansions 2DA the Empty Palatial Homes of Chettinad Are Packed with History and Grandeur by Charukesi Ramadurai
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SHORT BREAK From Chennai Chettinad + YS Storied Mansions 2DA The empty palatial homes of Chettinad are packed with history and grandeur By CHARUKESI RAMADURAI ver a century ago, daily life in the of businessmen and bankers. Karaikudi is the villages of Chettinad in eastern region’s principal town. Tamil Nadu would have been very It is estimated that 11,000 such mansions Odifferent.T he sounds of women’s still remain—about half the number that anklets, the laughter of children, the aroma existed 100 years ago. They were built by men of freshly-ground spices would have filled the who once traded in everything from salt to imposing mansions of Chettinad built around gems, with countries like Burma, Malaysia Large verandas, pillared passages and the 19th and early 20th century. The region and Singapore. Much of their profits went into rooms that can fit a thousand people are commonly found in the traditional mansions comprises some 78 villages, dominated by the building these grand residences, which used of Chettinad. prosperous Nattukotai Chettiar community to be called natukottai or regional fort. But in the mid-20th century, most Chettiar families moved to cities such as Chennai. Their palatial homes were left in the custody of caretakers, The Chettinadu Mansion (above) is one of several old palatial homes converted into a who maintained them for those rare occasions, heritage hotel. Walking through the original such as weddings or Pongal, the Tamil harvest rooms, iron-pillared courtyards, and large festival, when the family came to visit. balconies, guests can get a glimpse of the way in which the Nattukottai Chettiars once lived; These days, the better-maintained homes An old radio (top right) still plays the news and see a smattering of curious tourists, brought music every morning at Visalam; Some of the by local guides and cab drivers who can Chettinad homes (right) are so big that their entrance and exits are on parallel streets. rattle off names of movies which were shot in Chettinad, and actors who have graced the with a mixture of egg white and lime giving region with their presence. A few mansions them a sheen that has lasted for decades. The have been converted into elegant hotels. design of the mansions keeps them cool even Though these mansions are still Chettinad’s in summer and incorporates water harvesting biggest draw, there are other things to see methods created a century ago. and do once you are mansioned-out. The All Chettinad towns have a few well- region is also just a two-hour drive from two maintained mansions that locals helpfully of Tamil Nadu’s great temples at Madurai and point out. Some of the more popular ones are Thanjavur. the Chettinadu Mansion in Kanadukathan village (now a boutique hotel) and Chellappa Chettiar’s House (also referred to as SPICES) EXPLORE “the museum” by locals) in Kottaiyur. The AND Periya Veedu (big house) in Athangudi is UNIQUE LOCAL EXPERIENCE (RADIO MANSION HOPPING Chettinad is full exceptionally beautiful and well-maintained. URAI URAI of palatial homes so big their entrances are Every surface in this mansion gleams, from When in Chettinad, learn to cook D on one street and exits on a parallel street. the Spanish tiles on the roof, to the teak pillars the Chettinad way. Most upmarket AMA R In a typical Chettinad mansion, a sweeping from Burma, and stained-glass windows from hotels offer kitchen tours, cooking path leads to the front porch, called thinnai. Italy, and murals painted above the pillars. This demonstrations, and classes. Chettinad Then comes a large veranda leading into an house also feels more warm and welcoming cuisine derives its flavours from the CHARUKESI open space that was used for weddings and than the mansion hotels. All these are usually judicious mix of several spices: star anise, other celebrations. A narrow passage from open to visitors between 9 a.m. and 3 p.m.. cinnamon, black pepper, red chilli, fennel HOMES), there leads to the next veranda and then Caretakers often expect `50-100 for entry. seed, and tamarind. or mutton uppu varuval (fried mutton) AND another. Along the verandas are the mansion’s Pallathur, Devakottai and Kothamangalam Visalam has an open kitchen where is prepared. residential and store rooms (over 100 in many villages, all within a 50 km-radius of the main guests are invited to observe and The Bangala also offers cooking homes). Some of the mansions have long town of Karaikudi, are also well known for participate in the preparation of all the classes where 4-5 of their specialty rooms that run parallel to the courtyard; these their grand mansions. Guests of The Bangala meals of the day. Apart from that, there dishes like tomato rice, prawn masala, can seat a thousand people. hotel, can visit the palatial MSMM House in is a free cooking demonstration every pepper chicken and urulai karuvaadu (CHETTINADU MANSION (CHETTINADU Owners or caretakers proudly show off the Karaikudi, owned by the Meyyappan family. evening at 3 p.m. where a signature poriyal (potato fry), are taught. Students fine carvings on the doors, teak pillars from Karaikudi is also home to Ayiram Jannal Chettinad dish like chicken thirakkal cook (`1,000 per person) and then eat IA PHOTO IA IA PHOTO PHOTO IA D Burma, marble tiles from Italy and ceiling Veedu (the house with a thousand windows) (chicken in rich gravy), pepper chicken, their preparations (`800 extra). D DINO tiles from Spain. The smooth walls are coated but as it is lived in, tourists are not allowed to DINO 122 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JANUARY 2013 JANUARY 2013 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA 123 SHORT BREAK From Chennai Chettinad It’s possible to see local weavers at work and chidambaravilas.com/; doubles `7,500). purchase stunning Chettinad cotton saris Saratha Vilas (Kothamangalam ) is over 100 and fabrics at very reasonable prices from a years old (832 Main Road; 98842 03175; www. weaving centre. The money goes directly to the sarathavilas.com/index.html; doubles `7,060). weavers rather than through middlemen. The best options are Sri Mahalakshmi handloom MID-range weaving centre in Kanadukathan (94885 Chettinadu Inn (Kanadukathan) is a good, 67554/9442047995; K.M. Street) and the clean hotel (Raja Street; 94426 36124; www. weavers’ colony just outside Karaikudi. chettinaaduinn.com; doubles from `4,000 ). BUDGET STAY Hotel Subhalakshmi Palace (4565-235200 / 235201; doubles `2,100) and Hotel Udhayam LUXUry Several old mansions have been (www.udhayamhotel.com; 4565-234068 restored and turned into hotels. / 233142 / 237440, from `1,350) both in The Bangala (Karaikudi) is not a typical Karaikudi are among the most popular options. mansion. It was once a gentlemen’s club (4565-22021 /250221 /250231; www. thebangala.com; doubles from `6,400). EAT Visalam (Kanadukathan, 15 km from Karaikudi) is a beautifully restored hotel, with Besides the famous Chettinad chicken, the eco-friendly practices. Visalam was a father’s region is known for its flavourful and fiery Chettinad pepper chicken is a popular dish that’s found fame even outside the region. gift to his daughter, Visalakshi, and retains cuisine, but most hotels will tone down the the spirit of hospitality that must have once spice for visitors. Breakfast dishes include the meal. The owner, Meenakshi Meyyapan, been its mark (04562-273301 / 273354; www. paniyaram (round shallow fried dumplings) is well-informed about the region and the cghearth.com/visalam; doubles `13,500; off- eaten with a variety of chutneys, and changes it has undergone over the years. While season discounts ). idiyappam (string hoppers) with kosumalli in Kanadukathan, try the food at Visalam; Chettinadu Mansion (Kanadukathan) is a (a local stew). For lunch and dinner, try kola book a day in advance. popular stay option but food and service are urundai kozhambu (a sambhar-like stew with To eat with Karaikudi locals, ask for Hotel often not as good as the others (SARM House, steamed dumplings made of pulses) and the President (present at three locations in the Behind Raja’s Palace; 04565-273080; www. special of the day (chicken, fish or mutton). town), where piping hot vegetarian dishes chettinadumansion.com; doubles `5,500). The Bangala is open to non-residents for are served throughout the day. It is always ) MAP (Kadiapatti) is a magnificent meals (`400 for breakfast and `1,000 for crowded—try their kothu rotti and different ( Chidambara Vilas mansion, but they don’t allow walk-in visitors lunch; `850 for vegetarians; rates are lower for types of dosa. A panneer (rose water soda) G (KEY) (TSK House, Ramachandrapuram, Off hotel guests). Book the previous day, and eat from the cigarette/drinks shop outside is a ES ES G Thirumayam Fort; 04333-267070/71; www. lightly at breakfast to do complete justice to good way to end the meal. n MA I The Kovilur temple (top left) near Karaikudi has a mandap, or hall where public rituals are performed, in the centre of a pond; A woman in NA URMIMALA Kanadukathan dries whole red chillies (top right), an important ingredient in Chettinad cuisine; Caretakers often show off the huge keys (bottom /GETTY /GETTY THE GUIDE left) which unlock the massive teak doors of these mansions. C Chennai or Bengaluru, both 45°C in May. Tourists tend enter. The Chettinad Palace (Raja’s Palace) fantastic view of the landscape for miles, the traditional vessels, furniture and woodwork RAPHI Orientation G roughly eight hours away. to visit from December to Chettinad is a collection of TO CHENNAI in Kanadukathan is another grand mansion fort also has three small rock-cut temples, from the area, and the odd quirky item like an (PEPPER CHICKEN), 78 villages and towns in the Road The Chettinad region is early March, when the weather where visitors are not allowed in; it is definitely dedicated to Shiva and Vishnu.