Short break From

+ YS Storied Mansions 2DA The empty palatial homes of Chettinad are packed with history and grandeur By Charukesi Ramadurai

ver a century ago, daily life in the of businessmen and bankers. is the villages of Chettinad in eastern region’s principal town. would have been very It is estimated that 11,000 such mansions Odifferent.T he sounds of women’s still remain—about half the number that anklets, the laughter of children, the aroma existed 100 years ago. They were built by men of freshly-ground spices would have filled the who once traded in everything from salt to imposing mansions of Chettinad built around gems, with countries like Burma, Large verandas, pillared passages and the 19th and early 20th century. The region and Singapore. Much of their profits went into rooms that can fit a thousand people are commonly found in the traditional mansions comprises some 78 villages, dominated by the building these grand residences, which used of Chettinad. prosperous Nattukotai Chettiar community to be called natukottai or regional fort. But in the mid-20th century, most Chettiar families moved to cities such as Chennai. Their palatial homes were left in the custody of caretakers, The Chettinadu Mansion (above) is one of several old palatial homes converted into a who maintained them for those rare occasions, heritage hotel. Walking through the original such as weddings or Pongal, the Tamil harvest rooms, iron-pillared courtyards, and large festival, when the family came to visit. balconies, guests can get a glimpse of the way in which the Nattukottai Chettiars once lived; These days, the better-maintained homes An old radio (top right) still plays the news and see a smattering of curious tourists, brought music every morning at Visalam; Some of the by local guides and cab drivers who can Chettinad homes (right) are so big that their entrance and exits are on parallel streets. rattle off names of movies which were shot in Chettinad, and actors who have graced the with a mixture of egg white and lime giving region with their presence. A few mansions them a sheen that has lasted for decades. The have been converted into elegant hotels. design of the mansions keeps them cool even Though these mansions are still Chettinad’s in summer and incorporates water harvesting biggest draw, there are other things to see methods created a century ago. and do once you are mansioned-out. The All Chettinad towns have a few well- region is also just a two-hour drive from two maintained mansions that locals helpfully of Tamil Nadu’s great temples at and point out. Some of the more popular ones are Thanjavur. the Chettinadu Mansion in village (now a boutique hotel) and Chellappa Chettiar’s House (also referred to as Explore “the museum” by locals) in . The Periya Veedu (big house) in Athangudi is UNIQUE LOCAL EXPERIENCE MANSION HOPPING Chettinad is full exceptionally beautiful and well-maintained. of palatial homes so big their entrances are Every surface in this mansion gleams, from When in Chettinad, learn to cook AND (radio urai spices)

on one street and exits on a parallel street. the Spanish tiles on the roof, to the pillars the Chettinad way. Most upmarket ama d In a typical Chettinad mansion, a sweeping from Burma, and stained-glass windows from hotels offerkitchen tours, cooking path leads to the front porch, called thinnai. Italy, and murals painted above the pillars. This demonstrations, and classes. Chettinad Then comes a large veranda leading into an house also feels more warm and welcoming cuisine derives its flavours from the open space that was used for weddings and than the mansion hotels. All these are usually judicious mix of several spices: star anise, other celebrations. A narrow passage from open to visitors between 9 a.m. and 3 p.m.. , , red chilli,

there leads to the next veranda and then Caretakers often expect `50-100 for entry. seed, and . or mutton uppu varuval (fried mutton) R Charukesi AND homes), another. Along the verandas are the mansion’s , and Kothamangalam Visalam has an open kitchen where is prepared. residential and store rooms (over 100 in many villages, all within a 50 km-radius of the main guests are invited to observe and The Bangala also offers cooking homes). Some of the mansions have long town of Karaikudi, are also well known for participate in the preparation of all the classes where 4-5 of their specialty rooms that run parallel to the courtyard; these their grand mansions. Guests of The Bangala meals of the day. Apart from that, there dishes like tomato rice, prawn masala, can seat a thousand people. hotel, can visit the palatial MSMM House in is a free cooking demonstration every pepper chicken and urulai karuvaadu Owners or caretakers proudly show off the Karaikudi, owned by the Meyyappan family. evening at 3 p.m. where a signature poriyal (potato fry), are taught. Students fine carvings on the doors, teak pillars from Karaikudi is also home to Ayiram Jannal Chettinad dish like chicken thirakkal cook (`1,000 per person) and then eat Burma, marble tiles from Italy and ceiling Veedu (the house with a thousand windows) (chicken in rich gravy), pepper chicken, their preparations (`800 extra). ia photo Dino d ia tiles from Spain. The smooth walls are coated but as it is lived in, tourists are not allowed to mansion (chettinadu photo Dino d ia

122 national Geographic Traveller | JANUARY 2013 JANUARY 2013 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA 123 Short break From Chennai Chettinad

It’s possible to see local weavers at work and chidambaravilas.com/; doubles `7,500). purchase stunning Chettinad cotton Saratha Vilas (Kothamangalam ) is over 100 and fabrics at very reasonable prices from a years old (832 Main Road; 98842 03175; www. weaving centre. The money goes directly to the sarathavilas.com/index.html; doubles `7,060). weavers rather than through middlemen. The best options are Sri Mahalakshmi handloom Mid-range weaving centre in Kanadukathan (94885 Chettinadu Inn (Kanadukathan) is a good, 67554/9442047995; K.M. Street) and the clean hotel (Raja Street; 94426 36124; www. weavers’ colony just outside Karaikudi. chettinaaduinn.com; doubles from `4,000 ).

Budget STAY Hotel Subhalakshmi Palace (4565-235200 / 235201; doubles `2,100) and Hotel Udhayam Luxury Several old mansions have been (www.udhayamhotel.com; 4565-234068 restored and turned into hotels. / 233142 / 237440, from `1,350) both in The Bangala (Karaikudi) is not a typical Karaikudi are among the most popular options. mansion. It was once a gentlemen’s club (4565-22021 /250221 /250231; www. thebangala.com; doubles from `6,400). EAT Visalam (Kanadukathan, 15 km from Karaikudi) is a beautifully restored hotel, with Besides the famous Chettinad chicken, the eco-friendly practices. Visalam was a father’s region is known for its flavourful and fiery Chettinad pepper chicken is a popular dish that’s found fame even outside the region. gift to his daughter, Visalakshi, and retains cuisine, but most hotels will tone down the the spirit of hospitality that must have once spice for visitors. Breakfast dishes include the meal. The owner, Meenakshi Meyyapan, been its mark (04562-273301 / 273354; www. paniyaram (round shallow fried dumplings) is well-informed about the region and the cghearth.com/visalam; doubles `13,500; off- eaten with a variety of chutneys, and changes it has undergone over the years. While season discounts ). (string hoppers) with kosumalli in Kanadukathan, try the food at Visalam; Chettinadu Mansion (Kanadukathan) is a (a local stew). For lunch and dinner, try kola book a day in advance. popular stay option but food and service are urundai kozhambu (a sambhar-like stew with To eat with Karaikudi locals, ask for Hotel often not as good as the others (SARM House, steamed dumplings made of pulses) and the President (present at three locations in the Behind Raja’s Palace; 04565-273080; www. special of the day (chicken, fish or mutton). town), where piping hot vegetarian dishes

chettinadumansion.com; doubles `5,500). The Bangala is open to non-residents for are served throughout the day. It is always ) Chidambara Vilas (Kadiapatti) is a magnificent meals (`400 for breakfast and `1,000 for crowded—try their kothu rotti and different mansion, but they don’t allow walk-in visitors lunch; `850 for vegetarians; rates are lower for types of . A panneer (rose water soda) g ( MAP (TSK House, Ramachandrapuram, Off hotel guests). Book the previous day, and eat from the cigarette/drinks shop outside is a es (key) g es Fort; 04333-267070/71; www. lightly at breakfast to do complete justice to good way to end the meal. n The Kovilur temple (top left) near Karaikudi has a mandap, or hall where public rituals are performed, in the centre of a pond; A woman in Kanadukathan dries whole red chillies (top right), an important ingredient in ; Caretakers often show off the huge keys (bottom left) which unlock the massive teak doors of these mansions. I ma /Getty THE GUIDE Chennai or Bengaluru, both 45°C in May. Tourists tend enter. The Chettinad Palace (Raja’s Palace) fantastic view of the landscape for miles, the traditional vessels, furniture and woodwork Orientation Chettinad is a collection of roughly eight hours away. to visit from December to in Kanadukathan is another grand mansion fort also has three small rock-cut temples, from the area, and the odd quirky item like an TO Chennai 78 villages and towns in the Road The Chettinad region is early March, when the weather where visitors are not allowed in; it is definitely dedicated to Shiva and Vishnu. Try to visit in old biscuit tin or gramophone records. Beyond Athangudi district of eastern in the heart of Tamil Nadu and is moderate (about 25°C). na urmimala ture (pepper chicken), worth stopping by for a look from the road the morning so you can make the short but the disarray in the displays, you may discover Tamil Nadu. It is about 400 km equidistant from Chennai and (or take a virtual tour at www.view360.in/ tiring climb before it gets hot. a gem or two, especially old, sturdy cooking c g raphi Geo / N ational south of Chennai and close to Bengaluru (a little over 450 km) Need to know virtualtour/karaikudi). There’s also the fifth-century Pillayarpatti utensils in brass and copper. on excellent roads. the temple towns of Madurai Although the residents of

When touring these homes, look out for old Temple, 12 km from Karaikudi. Venerated At the local sandai (market) one can (100 km/2 hours) and Thanjavur I n d iapi c A lamy/

Chettinad are friendly, y/ family photographs on the walls, the fading as Karpaga Vinayakar (Shiva-Ganesh), it is catch a glimpse of everyday life in Chettinad. (130 km/2 1/2 hours). The Getting around language can be an Chettinadu Mansion It is convenient to have a vehicle sepia memories of the mansions and the considered the most significant of the nine These markets are held on Mondays and d M elfor M i c hael main town of Chettinad is issue. The majority speak people who once lived there. Crane your neck important shrines to and Shiva to Thursdays in Karaikudi, and on other days at Karaikudi, located on the Trichy- at your disposal as there is no only Tamil, especially in S imon R e dd up before entering to see statues on top of the be found in the area. The side entrance has different villages (check with local hotels for Highway. reliable public transport (a cab Pillayarpatti for two days, including all local the villages around Temple main door leading to the house—from goddess exquisite frescoes on the ceiling. The other information). Getting there travel and airport pickup and Karaikudi. Your hotel Lakshmi and Lord Murugan to soldiers on temples are at Illaiyathangudi, Mathoor, At one of the many tile workshops in or resort Air There are daily flights from drop charges about `7,000). It horseback, these brightly painted statues were Vairavankoil, Nemamkoil, Illupaikudi, Athangudi, visitors can see how a basic should Karaikudi Chennai to Madurai (or from is possible to take bicycles from the pride of the house. Once inside, look up at Surakuddi, Velangudi, and Iraniyur. Each of stencil, and the clever use of colours and Bengaluru via Chennai), the the hotels (at no charge) for be able the ceiling for the most ornate chandeliers. these is a clan temple for one of the nine main techniques create stunning floor tiles in floral, nearest airport, 100 km/2 hours short trips. to find a Chettinad Chettiar village clusters. geometric, and paisley patterns. Tile-making from Karaikudi (taxis `1,200). guide who BEYOND MANSIONS The hilltop Shops selling antiques can be found on skills are passed on from father to son and the Rail A cheaper and more Seasons can show you around Thirumayam Fort was built in 1687 by a local Muniswaran Koil Street in Karaikudi. Much of superiority of these products is credited to the convenient way to travel is the Tamil Nadu is hot during most of and help communicate ruler, Vijaya Raghunatha Thevar. what is available was once part of the dowry high quality of local soil and water. Again, a tip overnight train to Madurai from the year, with highs of about 40- with people.

Apart from the cannon right at the top and a of Chettiar women. Apart from this, there are of `50-100 is appreciated. temple AND red chillies), (kovilur photo Dino d ia

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