The mark of industry inspiration & information December 2019

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Are you being served? Retail Services to consider

Attention seeking How NAJ members do visual merchandising

NAJ Awards Revealed, the 11 worthy winners

The National Association of Jewellers December 2019 Opinion 3 from The Editor

highlight some inspiring retail stories, with tips and trend directions from experts in the field. Underscoring the importance of presenting the best face to the world, the NAJ Awards 2019 include Physical Shop Front of the Year – one of three new award categories. Check out all the Award shortlists on page 20.

A fabulous store, with beautiful stock and amazing, NAJ JET-trained, staff is the key to success. The missing piece in this jeweller’s jigsaw is ‘retail services’. If you’re not offering IRV valuations, relevant insurance, repairs, watch straps and, maybe, ear-piercing, you are certainly missing a trick or three. Check out page 57 for a round-up of the added extras that will bring new customers through the door… and have them coming back.

Elsewhere in this issue we offer you even more in the way of information and guidance, from the impact of Brexit on hallmarking THE TH MARCH CLUB (page 15), diamond pipeline protection (page 62) and Sustainable ello, my name is Belinda and I have a teeny, tiny, Development Goals (page 34) to the benefits of NAJ membership, hardly-anything-really confession to make… I’m a Education news and events for your 2020 calendar. Our member trend concocter. Essentially, if I want a look, a style, a profile on page 60 throws the spotlight on fine gemstone jewellery Be Security Wise brand Ntinga and we introduce you to a new member – The Hallmark movement, a thing… to be, I’m not above embroidering Hthe facts a tad, talking it up if you like. I’m owning up now because Jewellery Group (page 49). WITH TH MARCH & THE NAJ in this issue I’ve been able to indulge in this personal whim and with something approaching a clear conscience. I have always loved All that and a feature on the latest, greatest jewellery trend – tiaras! brooches, and hoped to see more of them more often in collections. Nah, just joking… I know when to stop pushing my luck. That one (and And now – ta da! – they’re finding favour big-time. Whoops, there I I do actually love a sparkly, wear-anytime headpiece) can be saved go again, but turn to page 26 to see my tempting pick of the latest for another day. Meanwhile, here’s wishing you a joyous and fruitful beautiful bunch. Let’s make this happen folks! festive season and a promising New Year.

Helping to protect you, your business and your employees The power of positive thinking is certainly working its magic in the world of visual merchandising. When the going gets tough, the An important TH March and NAJ initiative aiming to raise awareness, increase knowledge tough open a new store, extend or refurbish an existing one and generally up their game to give the competition a run for its money. and improve security throughout the UK Jewellery trade. As you might imagine, these days it’s as much about delivering great customer experiences as creating beautiful spaces. On page 40 we Belinda Morris, Editor

Contact TH March or the NAJ to find out more! pg pg pg www.thmarch.co.uk/NAJ www.naj.co.uk/securitywise 26 40 57

“Brooches demonstrate wearability and are not “Experience… really matters to customers. With so “Jewellers up and down the country are helping specifically for the more mature lady… they are much choice in the retail market, vying for their to make multiples like Timpson very successful actually very diverse accessories” attention is a full time strategic job for retailers” indeed…”

The Jeweller AD - SEPT SECURITYWISE 2019.indd 1 24/09/2019 10:10 NAJ News 5

The National Association Bransom of Jewellers

The National Association of Jewellers Inside this Issue 10 Vyse Street pg Birmingham Stars B18 6LT December 2019 0121 2 3 7 111 0 November and December 2018 54 www.naj.co.uk Bransom Award winners Editor: Belinda Morris [email protected] NEWS PROFILE BUSINESS ADVICE

Advertising sales: 08 NAJ News 49 New Member Profile 15 Hallmarking [email protected] Created in the UK, Brexit and Benevolent Society Meet The Hallmark Jewellers Group Post-Brexit guidance on hallmarking 07741 554 011 updates 17 Education 50 Hill & Hill Jewellers Designed & produced by: Introducing new courses 11 NAJ News Altrincham’s exciting new jewellery store Senior Internet Introducing the Education Steering Group www.senior.co.uk 60 Fine Gemstone Jewellery 18 Financial Planning 0115 838 9555 12 NAJ News We learn more about highflier Ntinga Cash flow is king, advises TH March 2020 Events Calendar 22 Member Benefits Printed by: 66 The Last Word… HPA Print Ltd The perks of belonging, plus notes on compliance 14 Industry News … goes to Scott Walter www.hpaprint.co.uk The latest CIBJO Reports 07525 011 589 32 JET Business Network 53 Industry News The importance of Business Strategy New… IJL venue, DPA CEO, Tivon website Contributory writers: TRENDS 34 Sustainable Development Goals Raji Ashwin, David Brough, Simon Forrester, Hannah How to contribute to this global agenda McWhirter, Chris Oliver, Nysa Pradham, Lavinia Pryce 26 PINterest 35 Gold Market Report Front Cover Image: Brooches back? They were never out of style! Gold Bank London 57 Retail Services www.gold-bank.co.uk 40 Visual Merchandising The little extras that create a great business +44 (0) 203 500 1111 How to stand out from the crowd – the new rules [email protected] 62 Diamond Pipeline Integrity For further information please refer to Page 19 54 What’s New… Ensure your products are what you say they are … in Watches The NAJ is responsible for producing The Jeweller and although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the NAJ does not accept liability, loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from opinions expressed by contributors. Information and ideas are for guidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisors. The NAJ accepts no responsibility OPINION for the content of any advertiser, advertisement or insert in The Jeweller. Anyone EVENTS & SHOWS having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries. The magazine is printed using vegetable based inks on FSC certified paper produced from 03 From the Editor sustainable sources 20 NAJ Awards pg The winners revealed 07 The CEO’S Foreword 37 Conference 2019 65 Education 60 Report (part 2) from the IRV’s must-attend weekend The latest Clarity & Success stars jewellery retail systems jewellery Trusted retail leadersystems in Trusted leader in December 2019 Opinion 7 CEO’s foreword

Speaking of research, it was both sobering and refreshing (a great combination in the run-up to Christmas) to read the British Hallmarking Council’s work on the amount of fake and unmarked ‘gold’ jewellery for sale to UK consumers. In a previous life I was involved in developing a relationship with some of the online marketplaces to stop the sale of unlicensed and dangerous chemicals to untrained end users. This is an area where associations shine – protecting the public. Our message is that for peace of mind, every purchase – whether online or in person – should be from an NAJ member.

On the topic of representing the public, we’ve recently talked to a credit card company about a Section 75 claim for a poorly-labelled HPHT diamond – is the average consumer really going to know what ‘HPHT’ means? Happily the card company paid out, but it highlighted our ongoing concerns about misleading descriptors for jewellery products. I was so moved that I got in front of a camera to ‘star’ (ahem) in a video on diamond terminology to accompany our forthcoming Trading Standards Assured Advice. While the wording Bring in will change for different products, the sentiment remains the same; always ensure you are selling to an informed consumer to protect them… and you. Trust is hard to come by, and every bad actor Pursuit innovation takes the stress – and the (no, not my starring role in this case) in our sector drives another Pursuit innovation takes the stress – and the Your Bling consumer to book holidays or buy tech rather than jewellery. guesswork – out of Christmas sales To understand our consumers a little better, the NAJ has teamed guesswork – out of Christmas sales ou’d expect the National Association of Jewellers to have up with the CMJ and the Goldsmiths’ Company to carry out the some very nice chains of office for our president and chair, largest ever UK survey of consumers’ views on jewellery to develop Innovation has been a mainstay of Pursuit’s growth for over two alongside other items created or donated over the years; some high-profile media-friendly messaging in the run-up to “Our users – and Innovation has been a mainstay of Pursuit’s growth for over two and you’d be spot on (see past issues of The Jeweller for “Our users – and decades. Christmas. This will be hitting editors’ desks soon, and we’ve also It has been driven by listening – and responding – to the details).Y So it struck me that we aren’t unique. Every trade body or decades. It has been driven by listening – and responding – to the worked on a suite of press releases allowing NAJ members to get there have been over needs of our customers. So – we’d like to express our thanks to all the professional institute I’ve previously worked for has some ‘bling’ – as there have been over needs of our customers. So – we’d like to express our thanks to all the some local press – we’ll be in touch on that topic to support your jewellery businesses that have been the source of our success. Inspired my president at a former job called it – locked in a safe or tucked push for more jewellery sales. 300 more this year – jewellery businesses that have been the source of our success. Inspired away in a sock drawer (genuine example – sorry, TH March!). Most 300 more this year – by their needs, during 2020 Pursuit will be revealing even more new, will see even more by their needs, during 2020 Pursuit will be revealing even more new, won’t have had it valued in a long while, if at all; it’s not in the Right, off to do my bit for the judging in the NAJ Awards – there’s exciting and ground-breaking innovations, each designed to help forefront of an association CEO’s mind. will see even more exciting and ground-breaking innovations, each designed to help a mountain of entries for several of the categories; it’s great to innovations in 2020” enhance the special magic that the jewellery trade is all about. see the passion and innovation in our industry highlighted. I’m innovations in 2020” enhance the special magic that the jewellery trade is all about. Many items will require repair or enamelling/engraving to keep Talk to Pursuit – and see how our success could contribute to your looking forward to seeing you on 5th December where the double Talk to Pursuit – and see how our success could contribute to your them up to date as part of the AGM process, perhaps to list past and act of Kelsall and Forrester (the Sam Fox and Mick Fleetwood of success in 2020. current post-holders, or to mend that dent when the chairman fell success in 2020. the jewellery sector awards circuit – ask your dad) will be wowing over at the Christmas party. Few however will have actually done this the audience with a carefully choreographed presentation to the See what you’re missing. Arrange a demonstration. Call Pursuit now repair/refurb work. Enter stage left, your friendly neighbourhood worthy winners. See what you’re missing. Arrange a demonstration. Call Pursuit now jeweller. + 44 (0) 1603 263800 A very prosperous Christmas and a happy and healthy 2020 to you all. + 44 (0) 1603 263800 Why not contact an association local to you, inviting them to ‘bring in their bling’ for a clean, maybe even have it valued by your in-house Follow us IRV? It could make a great story for the local media and the relevant Follow us trade press for that sector. You’d also be reaching every member of @PursuitSoftware that trade body, many of whom will have jewellery of their own to @PursuitSoftware value or repair (see page 57 about added value repair and valuation @PursuitSoftware services). I’m currently writing an article for association CEOs on @PursuitSoftware the ‘bling’ topic, to urge them to get theirs MOT’d by a local NAJ integrated shop and online sales and stock performance monitoring member. Please let me know if you get a call, I’d be very interested to Simon Forrester CEO integrated shop and online sales and stock performance monitoring see how many we get and the long-term results. National Association of Jewellers www.pursuit.co.uk www.pursuit.co.uk 8 NAJ News The Jeweller December 2019 NAJ News 9

Who you gonna call – Derbyshire-based label and ticket manufacturer, Magpie Europe, last month Kerry Gregory keeps you at the NAJ to get stuff done? published its strong finish for 2019 and is now Magpie Europe enters looking to make further progress in 2020. • Want to make the most out of your in the loupe about the member benefits? Scott Williams, head of Magpie, which offers all NAJ members 15 2020 in strong position with membership can ensure you’re getting the per cent discount off labels and 10 per cent off most out of the NAJ printers, has recently taken on a new PTSI Steering Group apprentice, passed its ISO 9001 certification, new contract, apprentice • Got a great idea for content for web or social and exceeded its waste target for the year. media? Ben Massey, director of marketing The target, which stood at 2 per cent, was and communications has been transforming broken with final results of 1.3 per cent, and certification digital for the NAJ In October, the PTSI Steering Group met meaning a reduced cost for manufacturing Do you know what the NAJ products can be passed on to Magpie’s to catch up on developments since the last • Have expertise you want to share in The clients. meeting and to look at what we need to has been doing for you? Jeweller magazine? Belinda Morris, editor, both for our commercial benefit, and that of fulfil ongoing business as well as the new focus our efforts on going into peak season can help you get published the customers. Some clients are reporting contract. For 2020, we’d like to make further Caren Colabella, director of Magpie Europe a difficult time out there, so we felt it and 2020. To me it felt like there were two Over the last few months the NAJ has been: • Need a rogue trader investigated for bad strives forward and we’ve got our eyes keenly said: “Late last year we necessary to make the changes in order themes running through the day – what has in the press correcting misinformation practices? Katie Gillespie, compliance on NAJ’s Created in the UK, getting out of took the company decision to put all of our remain a key part of the retail jeweller’s the NAJ been doing for me and who you about synthetic diamonds; launching the office to see new and existing customers manager works harder than Matt Allbright employees through the NVQ level three in business.” gonna call? online affordable modular courses with to weed them out Business Improvement Techniques in order and that all-important waste figure, which will the information you need to grow your to deliver impact into the Magpie business be a tough objective to beat, I’m sure.” • Want a course developed? Marie Garnett, The company, which was shortlisted for But both themes centre on one thing: business; visible and available at trade the NAJ Service Provider of the Year head of education creates relevant and Magpie has also recently redesigned its communication. events for members to discuss their benefits Award, has also recently won a significant effective education that will enthuse your website, gemtags.co.uk, featuring a bold new and needs; constantly updating content staff contract within an associated trade to One of the most challenging aspects of and function on the website; dealing with the jewellery industry, which remains look, which will certainly help the business trailblaze its way into 2020. running any business, including a trade complaints against traders who do not Whatever you want or need, call, email, core to its long-term plan. association, is communication. What is uphold the same standards that we do and contact us via the website, or send a carrier To claim your Magpie Europe too much? Too little? What do you need to forging powerful links and alliances with pigeon! The NAJ is your association, working Sharing its objectives for 2020, discount, know? Want to know? When? And how? other organisations. for you, if you don’t tell us, we don’t know. Caren said: “We had to bring call 0121 237 1110 in a new apprentice to help or email [email protected]

New Year insight Benevolent Society for NAJ Members Actions Further Funding

The NAJ’s Consumer Focus steering group has delivered In a move to further support people from the industry a syndicated questionnaire, jointly funded by the NAJ, who have fallen on hard times, the Benevolent Society has A big welcome to… Goldsmiths’ Company and the CMJ, to understand why increased its regular donation to beneficiaries from £190 Created in the UK people buy and don’t buy jewellery. to £300 per quarter. This money makes a real difference to The membership team would like to those who are often suffering terrible financial hardship. It Since its launch at IJL in September, the NAJ has experienced more than 100 welcome all of our latest new NAJ members The research, which provided 2,000+ responses, is one of is their ray of sunshine in what otherwise could be a dismal registers of interest. below – we wish them all a long and the largest research activities to take place for the jewellery existence. community and strongly supports the steering group’s prosperous future with the Association! The scheme is available for manufacturers, designers and retailers to bolt mission to stimulate demand for the industry. David Doyle, treasurer of the Benevolent Society and NAJ on to their annual subscription. As part of the additional subscription, items Ballantyne Diamonds – Retailer president said: “We’re extremely thankful to the people can be marked ‘Created in the Adam Jacobs, of Jacobs the Jewellers in Reading who chairs and companies that support the Benevolent Society. Only Code by Edge – Supplier UK’ and the logo can be used the group said: “We’re extremely thankful to the CMJ and through their support are we able to better assist the working in point of sale and marketing the Goldsmiths’ Company for supporting this important Eternally Elusive – Retailer people of our past, that have made our Industries what they materials. ‘Created in the UK’ can research activity for the good of the industry. Within the are today." Guardian Brands – Supplier group we’re calling the project ‘the jewellery census’, due to also feature as an advanced filter its significance. Bello Creations – Designer in the new Find a Jeweller tool This move follows the news earlier in the year that the online. Likewise, retailers can use Elliot Brown Watches – Supplier “In the new year members will be able to log in to the insight Benevolent Society, the charitable arm of the British Allied the Created in the UK brand in PK Jewels UK Ltd – Supplier pages of the NAJ website members area and understand Trades Federation, launched the Fuller Foundation. This their marketing materials and add exactly why people do and do not buy jewellery in their Foundation provides funding for professionals wishing to Philip Lloyd Jewellers – Retailer the filter to their NAJ profile tool. move from a middle to senior management role and will region, divisible by key demographics. The research is William and Julia Shaw Jewellers – Retailer part one of our two-part plan. We will now drive two key support activities such as an MBA. Potential applicants can Members can join the Created campaigns; for those who buy jewellery to buy more, and request an application form from the Benevolent Society Dira London – Retailer in the UK scheme as part of those who don’t currently buy jewellery to start to do so.” secretary. Part of the process is to evidence a strong business membership renewals, and case encompassing a strategic development plan, which Want more from your membership? Visit also join directly. For more To visit the NAJ’s insight pages (members only), visit delivers both commercial and non-commercial impact for naj.co.uk/benefits to find out more about information visit naj.co.uk/insight their business. the great benefits you’re entitled to. naj.co.uk/created Exclusive Offer to NAJ Members December 2019 Business Advice 11 The Education Steering Group

In the third in our series introducing the Association’s Steering Groups, member Nysa Pradham and vice-chair Chris Oliver explain their aspirations for education in our industry. GE330

Use the GE330 to print your own Nysa Pradham, head of Education, Gem-A jewellery pricing labels “There have been many developments in the gems and jewellery • Package includes: trade and this trend continues at a fast pace. The whole industry is increasingly aware of the need for education to extend right along • Free label design software - Jewellers Edition the trade pipeline. The consumer is becoming more aware as we live in the age of technology and information explosion. Therefore, there Chris Oliver, head of Professional Training, is a serious need for education and retailers are acutely conscious of • 1,000 Jewellery labels this need. Goldsmiths’ Centre • Ink ribbon Education is and always has been my passion and I feel that in any £325.00 "The decision to join the NAJ’s Education Steering Group was a industry it is quintessential for an individual’s professional and relatively straightforward one. On both a personal and professional personal growth, to enable them to develop the competencies and Price excludes carriage + VAT level, it is flattering to be approached by an organisation such as expertise needed to grow and professionalise the trade. At Gem-A the NAJ to assist with the Education Steering Group and I hope the our efforts and vision has been to continually develop our education Offer ends 31st December 2019 approach is a reflection on the work that the Goldsmiths’ Centre has offering to cater to the needs of the trade and to support the undertaken around education and training since its opening. development and growth of the global industry through education and research. My passion for this industry stems from the individuals that aspire to and currently work within it. The level of dedication and enthusiasm In that I am excited to be part of the NAJ Education Steering which is in evidence across the many different facets of the sector Group as it provides a platform for us to exchange ideas, discuss inspires us to keep pursuing the most innovative and meaningful opportunities and challenges and brainstorm solutions for education forms of education and training, which can enable an individual to within the trade and support each other in our endeavour for achieve their potential. No one business or individual is the same excellence in education. Through this Group, I am hoping I will and it is this uniqueness which makes us want to drive change. be able to contribute my ideas and aspirations for gemmology education, but at the same time learn and develop the network that I hope that by joining the NAJ Education Steering Group both can help us achieve our collective ambitions for the trade.” myself and colleagues on it can provide opportunities for NAJ members and the wider industry which are both relevant and of high quality. In working for the Goldsmiths’ Centre, we have always seen significant value in collaboration, and I see this in exactly the same way for this Steering Group; education and training is not unique to any one organisation, and is a cornerstone of this industry’s growth potential. Our aim should be to work with and alongside For more information on the NAJ’s Steering other organisations to innovate rather than duplicate and equip Groups or how to get involved visit: naj.co.uk/ GemTAGS those passionate about our industry with the type of training that c/o Magpie Europe Ltd empowers them to start or continue a career." about or email: [email protected] Unit E, Heage Road Industrial Estate, Heage Road, Ripley, Derbyshire DE5 3GH Tel: 01773 749237 Email: [email protected] 12 NAJ News The Jeweller

Our events calendar is filling up fast, with the NAJ team hosting more ‘NAJ Live’ What’s on networking events around the country. We are going to get out and meet more of you face-to-face, with the sole aim of ensuring members are getting the most in 2020 out of their benefits.

January March June

12th – 15th: Giving and Living - Exeter 4th – 8th: Hong Kong International Jewellery Show* 2nd – 5th: The JCK Show - Las Vegas, USA - Hong Kong 14th: NAJ and London Assay Office Hallmarking 11th: NAJ AGM - Tower of London Talk - Goldsmiths’ Hall, London 11th: CMJ Networking day + NAJ Live - Sheffield 11th: NAJ Live - London 17th – 20th: Bijorhca, Paris - France 17th: NAJ Education Awards - Goldsmiths’ Hall, TBC: NAJ Summit - East Midlands London 17th – 22nd: Vicenzaoro - Vicenza 19th – 21st: Scotland’s Trade Fair Spring - Glasgow 18th: JET Practical Training Day - London Assay Office July 23rd: JET Practical Training Day - Sheffield Assay TBC: NAJ Peru Trip - Peru Office 2nd: UK Jewellery Awards - Tower of London 8th: CMJ Networking Event + NAJ Live - Belfast April February 19th – 22nd: Home and Gift - Yorkshire Events 9th: NAJ and Retail Jeweller Golf day + NAJ Live - Centre, Harrogate 2nd–6th: Jewellery and Watch - NEC, Birmingham Forest of Arden Marriott Hotel & Country Club, West 20th: NAJ Live - Harrogate 3rd: NAJ Live - Resorts World, Birmingham Midlands 25th–28th: Hong Kong Jewellery and Gem Fair - 2nd – 5th: NY NOW - New York, USA 22nd: CMJ Networking Day + NAJ Live - Edinburgh Hong Kong 12th – 18th: NAJ India Trip - Asia 30th – 5th May: Baselworld* - Basel, Switzerland 13th - 16th: IIJS Signature Show - Mumbai India 14th – 17th: Inhorgenta*- Munich, Germany August May 16th – 17th: Jewellery Cut Live - London 2nd – 3rd: CMJ Summer Trading Event - Birmingham 16th – 17th: CMJ Spring Trading Event - Birmingham TBC: NAJ Live (at the Horses) - Chepstow TBC: NAJ Live - Southampton TBC: Family Fun Day - Midlands

September Event Key 13th – 15th: IJL - Alexandra Palace, London NAJ event or collaboration NAJ LIVE 14th: NAJ Live - London Event the NAJ is exhibiting/ EVENTS hosting at 2020 other events with the NAJ October in attendance TBC: NAJ Live - Manchester gold 5th – 19th: NAJ Sri Lanka Trip - Sri Lanka bangles

To see more information on the listed events, and November

view the NAJ’s new TBC: NAJ Live - Cambridge digital event calendar visit naj.co.uk/whats-on December UK 0800 1956771 | ROI 1800 625163 | [email protected] www.curteis.com *BATF pavilion space available 3rd: Benevolent Society Ball - Solihull 14 Industry News The Jeweller December 2019 Business Advice 15

The British Hallmarking Council sets out best practice for The CCM mark can be applied to new articles along with UK Assay Office marks UK jewellery importers and exporters, around possible or as an addition to articles already bearing scenarios post-Brexit. UK hallmarks. If you are importing from any of the above countries, we recommend that post-Brexit CIBJO Reports you request a convention mark on your goods, or you submit them to a UK Assay Office for hallmarking before placing them Ahead of its 2019 Congress in Bahrain last month, The World internationally, and with frameworks that Hallmarking on the market. govern other industries around the globe. It is Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO) has released a number of important that jewellery industry companies Those exporting to any of the above fully understand their responsibilities under countries, we recommend that you apply a reports on key industry issues. We outline four here: these complex sets of expectations, and Requirements convention mark to your goods, post-Brexit. they communicate them effectively and directly with their supply-chain partners and The UK exemption weights of 7.78gm for ultimately the consumer,” author Tiffany silver, 1gm for gold/palladium and 0.5gm for Diamond Commission – Special Report Coloured Stone Special Report Stevens writes. platinum, may not apply in other countries. Post-Brexit For example, in the Republic of Ireland This This report focuses predominantly on Gemstone variety names are being used Noting that it is the consumers’ right to there are no exemption weights. means that any stock destined for southern what it refers to as the ‘faultline’ between for marketing purposes, with few if any know how the how their jewellery and its in countries who are members of the agreed-to gemmological standards. components affect the environment and the The current situation Ireland must bear a CCM. diamonds mined in nature and man-made Convention. diamonds. “Because laboratory-grown Unsubstantiated coloured gemstone variety lives of people as it journeys along the supply There are currently two separate ways in diamonds prices were deliberately names are the “biggest challenge our chain, she states that being forthright, fully What about EU countries that are not which hallmarks applied in one country benchmarked against the price of natural trade is facing right now,” with “numerous descriptive and making all disclosures clear Managed Deal Exit members of the Convention? can be recognised as being equivalent in diamonds at the outset, the risk exists that instances of the same descriptive names and easy to understand is imperative. another country: If the UK negotiates a managed exit from the consuming public will continue to being assigned according to different Luxemburg and Germany do not require the EU with an EU customs union, that any hallmark as a pre-market authorisation. associate the one with the other, even after standards, each time in accordance with relationship may continue to be subject to the economics have changed,” it states. “The the individual guidelines of various Pearl Special Report European Court of Justice (ECJ) ruling the ECJ ruling which currently provides In France a hallmark is a legal requirement. price war in the laboratory-grown diamond gemmological laboratories. The ECJ has ruled that EU member the basis for recognition of domestic marks. Importers must register with the Bureau sector could have the effect of depressing Prepared by the CIBJO Pearl Commission, states must recognise each other’s marks There are also likely to be cut-offs agreed de Garantie. In Spain a hallmark is a legal the value of goods in the natural diamond “Starting with more classical descriptive this looks at the growing impact of subject to providing an equivalent level over a set period, if there are going to be requirement. Importers must register with sector. terms, like ‘pigeon blood’ and ‘royal blue,’ environmental and conservationist factors some laboratories began developing their on the pearl sector, noting that these pose of protection and being intelligible to changes to the current situation. Until the an assay office in Spain. There are legal consumers. Most EU countries, with a exact nature of any future deal is known the requirements regarding hallmarking in “This makes the task of disconnecting the own nomenclature, creating new descriptive challenges, but also provide opportunities for names for a wide range of colours. requirement for compulsory hallmarking, exact effect cannot be determined. Belgium. Details can be found via the natural diamond and the laboratory-grown the industry. Apparently, this is a mutually beneficial will accept UK hallmarks as equivalent to Federal Ministry of Finance. diamond sectors even more important… business strategy for both the laboratories their own. The UK also accepts many EU from our professional perspective, and In the Philippines, for instance, climate Delayed Exit and the dealers. and environmental changes have had a member state hallmarks. Note: At time of going to press, the final UK- from the perspective of the consumer. The EU relationship is unknown. Therefore, the appeal of both products is different, and so significant effect on pearl production. In the case of a delayed exit, the current “It is imperative that the industry act These changes present both challenges The Common Control Mark (CCM) above sets out best practice around possible clearly are the economics. They both should recognition to UK marks by our EU quickly before consumer confidence is and opportunities – the main challenge is scenarios that may or may not transpire. be provided the opportunity to thrive, in neighbours and vice versa would continue. compromised. CIBJO’s Coloured Stone the lower volume of production that will be The Convention mark (CCM) can only be This information relates to hallmarks harmony alongside each other.” Commission will work in close collaboration available for distribution to the global market. applied by a signatory country within its only. Separate advice should be sought on with the organisation’s Gemmological On the other hand, this also serves as an national boundary – the Convention is an customs arrangements. The report calls for the creation of agreed- What action can importers and Commission to establish standards and opportunity because, with lower biomass agreement between Governments who to rules of engagement between the parameters for variety names,” the report density, comes the potential to achieve a have ratified the terms of the treaty and has exporters consider taking now? www.gov.uk/government/organisations/ two diamond sectors in marketing their states. higher quality output. technical rules on testing and marking. A british-hallmarking-council products, and warns about pitching one signatory country applying the CCM has The CCM mark applied by a UK Assay as being more ethical or environmentally The report also looks at natural pearls. While followed these common technical rules – all Office is currently accepted in all EU acceptable than the other. “This is not only Ethics Special Report rare, nowadays they most commonly are a other signatory countries will accept the member states because it is a UK hallmark. a self-destructive marketing strategy, but it by-product of the seafood industry, and as articles directly onto their market. You can start applying a CCM mark to your is also questionable in terms of the claims “Responsible business standards being such could be subject to restrictions imposed goods now with no impact on your current New Era for Hallmarking being made and the data upon which they applied in the jewellery industry are by the Convention on International Trade in import or export requirements. are based. meshing further and further with those used Endangered Species of Wild Fauna (CITES). What might change post-Brexit? Post-Brexit, it will continue to be accepted In a joint initiative, the NAJ, the by those EU member States who are also IRV and the London Assay Office “Proper rules of engagement need to be signatories to the Convention. No Deal Exit will come together on 14th January, created,” the report continues, suggesting 2020 at Goldsmiths' Hall, London, that one would be for all sides to agree Which countries are covered by the to discuss the very many facets of that any stone is neither ethical nor If the UK leaves the EU without any deal, CCM? hallmarking. London Assay Master, environmentally friendly. “These qualities all the UK’s obligations to recognise EU Robert Organ, will talk about the past, refer to the way in which they are mined marks would cease and vice versa. In this Current member states of the Convention present and future of hallmarking; or manufactured. The onus of responsible case we anticipate that any product already are: Austria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech behaviour always falls upon the individuals on the market pre-Brexit would be legal and NAJ CEO Simon Forrester will Republic, Denmark, Finland, Hungary, and companies mining or synthesising, already be in free circulation. outline new developments and Kerry Ireland, Israel, Latvia, Lithuania, processing and marketing these products.” Gregory of Gemmology Rocks will New stock entering the UK market would Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, clarify the realities and logistics require a UK-hallmark and in the case of Slovak Republic, Slovenia, Sweden, of hallmarking within a jewellery Switzerland, and the UK. stock exported to other EU countries, it business. To attend this free event, would require a mark recognised by those Serbia and Italy have undergone visit: naj.co.uk/whats-on To see the full reports visit www.cibjo.org/congress2019/special-reports/ countries. The CCM will continue to be assessment, and been invited to join but are recognised in the UK and to be recognised in the process of ratifying the treaty. December 2019 Education 17

The updated programme will enable Got Christmas cracked? the trainee valuer to study the theory of Creating Practical Skills jewellery valuation and appraisal using attractive and detailed learning materials, before spending time with an experienced and dedicated valuer to start putting their Get set for 2020! and Proficiency in the newly acquired learning into practice… and building confidence in the process.

A key benefit of this practical learning, in Jewellery Industry the small-group workshop, will be to allow We’ve got it to hand. the trainee to discuss and process new information with like-minded colleagues. They can support, and be supported, by each other and perhaps form peer networks Jewellery industry professionals are Which is why the NAJ is launching a new that they can draw on throughout their innately creative people, inspired by qualification – Foundations of Appraisal professional lives as valuers. handling precious metals, gemstones and Practice (Jewellery, Silverware and diamonds; understanding their properties, Watches) – in January 2020. This revitalised The Foundations of Appraisal Practice their value and how they can be worked qualification will incorporate learning from (Jewellery, Silverware and Watches) is a into beautiful pieces. Studying alone can’t the existing Certificate of Appraisal Theory pre-requisite for membership of the Institute develop this awareness and learning – with (CAT), which it will supercede, as well as a of Registered Valuers. However, CAT will touching, feeling and interacting with three-day interactive `practical valuation continue to be accepted for membership of jewellery comes appreciation. techniques’ workshop. the IRV.

We are sure that this new qualification will help trainees be better prepared for the submission of their sample valuations, which also continue to be a pre-requisite for membership.

To find out more about this new qualification, as well as the invaluable JET Practical Training days for all new and existing JET students, visit naj. co.uk/qualifications. Remember, funding for courses may be available through the Benevolent Society and the NAJ’s Educational Trust. Visit www.naj.co.uk/ charities for details. OVER 19,000 PROCUCTS IN STOCK

can benefit hugely from mentoring and the sharing of experience.

These might be craft graduates, new starters with skills but little business experience, Business Course for small businesses with big ideas, hobbyists turning professional, those starting second careers and new businesses that need help Creative Entrepreneurs in growing to the next stage. The pilot programme for the 12-week course will run in early 2020 at a special Click The Birmingham Assay Office is supporting have talent and creative skills and need introductory price of £1,200 per person. cooksongold.com and facilitating a new course aimed at some hands-on direction to establish their Applications for the course (with CV artisans from all sectors, which has been put business or grow it to the next level.” including qualifications and career together by jewellery industry figure and history) must be received no later serial entrepreneur Dr Gordon Hamme. The concept of the course follows the than 18th December 2019. Visit www. Call principles of the successful Finnish course, anchorcertacademy.net for applications/info 0345 100 1122 “We are really excited about this which Hamme studied. It is designed to programme, which we believe will fill a be more fluid, flexible and applied than a The NAJ Education Trust and the large gap in the jewellery and other craft standard business course and therefore Benevolent Society trustees welcome industries,” says Marion Wilson, director of more suited to the creative mind. It is ideal individual applications to part fund the Visit our AnchorCert Academy at Birmingham Assay for self-motivated, dynamic individuals pilot course. Visit: https://www.naj.co.uk/ Stores Office. “It is designed to support those who who need some business direction and who financial-support for more information. 18 Financial Planning The Jeweller Cash Flow is King…

… and it’s an important factor in the financial security of your business, says Steven Clemence FPFS of jewellery insurance specialist TH March.

ou have got all your security shareholder agreement. You might have to sorted out and you have insured look at your partnership agreement or your your stock and your premises, memorandum and articles and be prepared making sure there are no to update them, just as you would update Yhidden surprises waiting just around the your own will if circumstances have changed corner to trip you up. Now may be the time or what you read isn’t what you expect to to concentrate on growing your business or happen. Taking out Key Person Cover and adding further protection for what you have Business Loan Protection shouldn’t just be already built up. It’s easier said than done left to when your investors require it; you to run and build a business, but it is also all should require it to protect your business too easy to run into trouble, especially if, for and your family. If you are growing your whatever reason, the cash flow dries up at a business it will be down to your hard work crucial time. and determination to succeed that will make it happen. In the short term it will be A crisis in your business can often be a sacrifice in time to your loved ones, so averted if you have insured the most why not protect their future and the value of Leading Gold buyers in London, specialising in buying gold from traders important assets – not your stock and what you are building up – ‘the family silver’ premises, but you and your key people, – while you are still getting there. Steve’s career as a financial paying the best prices nationwide. against death, critical illness or long-term adviser stretches back to 1987 illness. Make sure, through insurance, that Having a Financial Planner on board to and he has been with TH March there is money available when it is needed sort out your Business Protection needs for 10 years. A chartered financial We offer the most robust payout service for traders. most to get your business through the cash will help you put the right plans in place. If planner, Steve is also a Fellow of crunch caused by a crisis. they go to the whole of the market they can the Personal Finance Society, (the select the best cover and provider for your FPFS after his name). The award In house Melting, Assaying, 100% payout upfront, all within a few minutes. Just as an individual should have a will, needs. You’ll probably want someone with of a Fellowship reflects the level you need to think about what would experience in this area and you will also of advanced study undertaken by be happening in the business today if want to run any recommendation by your Steve together with his academic achievement, knowledge, ethics We are also gold refiners so we can offer Gold Refining Services, and reduced something had happened to you or your accountant, but the right advice will allow and experience. business’ partners/fellow directors/key you to make sure the right cover is paid to rate gold bars and coins. people/shareholders yesterday. It should the right people (or your company) at the be written down in a partnership or right time. 215 The Broadway, Southall, Middlesex, UB1 1NB 0203 500 1111 For information sheets on Key Person, Shareholder Protection, Long Term Income [email protected] Protection, Business Loan Protection and Relevant Life Cover please contact Steve on 01822 855555 or at [email protected]

Gold bank half page ad.indd 1 12/11/2019 11:57:06 20 NAJ Awards 2019 The Jeweller December 2019 NAJ Awards 2019 21

Workshop Professional of the Year Company Awards Individual Awards – Alexander Wood, apprentice to Nathanial Groves These awards are given to the most These awards are given to a jewellery “Alexander is an exemplary apprentice outstanding companies in the UK and professional and/or team that consistently mounter, demonstrating ingenuity and are split into these different categories to demonstrate a high level of professionalism, exquisite craftsmanship while working on recognise companies that feature throughout integrity and honesty as part of the UK 25 pieces during the year, winning GC&DC the jewellery and watch value chain. jewellery community. Individual awards are awards and completing his masterpiece to split into different categories to recognise Victorious! present to the Goldsmiths’ Company.” individuals that feature throughout the Jewellery and/or Watch Supplier of the jewellery value chain. Shortlist: Anthony Dellow, Richard Soden Year – Hockley Mint and Peter Byrne Sponsored by: Presman Mastermelt “Firmly positioned as a home-grown, British Sales Person of the Year – Tracey Jones manufacturer, it consistently delivers (Purely Diamonds) The waiting is over… customer centric jewellery solutions, running we can now reveal rings around the competition.” “A career investment clearly demonstrated The shortlists, selected by the NAJ editorial through the satisfaction her customers team, didn’t disappoint. Simon Forrester, NAJ the 11 worthy winners Shortlist: Anchor & Crew, Ntinga, Unique enjoy. Seen as ‘invaluable’ to the team, her CEO, described the entries as ‘competitive’ & Co and Clogau Gold knowledge and emotional intelligence is a across the board, and showing ‘true business Sponsored by: Inhorgenta sure-fire winner.” impacts. “These were great submissions in this year’s NAJ and all with their own unique strengths and Awards, headline Shortlist: Craig Cohen (Ntinga), Emma creativity. What a showcase of innovation!” Service Provider of the Year – Williamson (Lucy Quartermaine) he says. sponsored by Nivoda. Gemmology Rocks Sponsored by: Windiam The NAJ Awards would not be possible “Kerry Gregory’s energy, passion and without the support of NAJ members and empathy really stand out. Gemmology Rocks Team of the Year – The PA Jewellery sponsors, and in particular we welcomed Corporate Social Responsibility Initiative doesn’t just deliver education and support, Team online diamond marketplace Nivoda as MyriamSOS, Aqua Wave ring of the Year – Monica Vinader it gets to the heart of clients’ businesses headline sponsor. Nivoda, which operates and delves deeper to find out the biggest “There is clear evidence of the team pride globally with offices in London, Mumbai and For delivering an activity that has challenges they face, and what they truly in going the extra mile, working together to Hong Kong, has a vision to build a trusted contributed to wider society, a specific need to succeed.” exceed expectations and supporting and marketplace for the jewellery industry, where community or a cause through raising respecting each other.” suppliers and retailers come to find everything Shortlist: Magpie Europe, Presman Held during the festive, fun-filled, fund- awareness, making a contribution of time or they need to best serve their customers and Physical Shop Front of the Year – Drakes Mastermelt, Clark Diamonds and Pursuit raising Benevolent Ball, the glittering funds, or other associated initiatives. Shortlist: Charlotte Cornelius, Clogau strengthen their profits. Sponsored by: Parify Gold, The Jewellery Cut and Purely ceremony saw three new categories join For being able to enhance or maintain an “Monica Vinader not only champions Diamonds the 2019 Awards: Innovation of the Year, excellent physical presence which clearly “I’m extremely thankful to award sponsors charitable causes by collaborating Sponsored by: Inhorgenta Corporate Social Responsibility Initiative of communicates its brand proposition to Nivoda, Windiam, Clogau, Presman commercially with charities, ie Women for Retailer of the Year – Purely Diamonds, the Year and Physical Shop Front of the Year the intended target audience in a physical Mastermelt, TH March, Parify, Inhorgenta, Women International, it is dedicated to – all in the ‘Organisation’ section. setting. Manchester Hockley Mint, Clarity & Success, Pursuit, maximising its social impact within the Designer of the Year – Julien Riad International Jewellery London and VM & supply chain network.” And here are all the NAJ Award winners: “A strong, powerful frontage from this “Scoring 100 per cent in the judge’s review, Sahyoun Events Ltd, many of whom have shown long family-run independent, is beautifully Purely Diamonds was praised for being an term commitment to this event. Thanks also extremely pleasant shopping experience; “Exciting and innovative jewellery with complemented by seasonal graphics to really goes to the trophy and Champagne sponsor, Shortlist: Anchor & Crew, Lebrusan Studio, remembered for the beautiful rings, excellent a strong brand identity to support it – capture the attention of passers-by.” Champions UK,” Forrester adds. Nova Silver and Pugata Jewellery prices and personal one-to-one touch. “I encapsulating everything that is good about Sponsored by: Pursuit came away smiling.” UK contemporary jewellery making.” Shortlist: Hill & Hill, Drakes, Lister The winners were presented with a beautifully Horsfall, Maunder Watch Company, Time Shortlist: Clogau Gold, John McKay Shortlist: Erica Sharpe, Arabel Lebrusan, stylish pewter twist trophy designed by & Motion Jewellers Catherine Tutt and kindly sponsored by Sponsored by: VM and Events Website of the Year – Bond Jewellery & Jewellers and Time & Motion Jewellers Charlotte Cornelius, Vicki Smith Diamonds Sponsored by: Hockley Mint Sponsored by: Clogau branding agency Champions (UK).

Innovation of the Year – MyriamSOS For significantly enhancing or maintaining an excellent web presence which clearly communicates the company’s For a company that has made a significant brand proposition to the intended target addition or change to their business that has Sponsors audience across multiple devices. delivered a positive impact. “An expertly designed and built website “The Aqua Wave ring designed MyriamSOS, which is very engaging for the user. The use in collaboration with the Osmium Institute, of video clips provides great visuals and is one of very few jewellery pieces globally interactivity. High-quality images and deep containing osmium.” levels of information.” Shortlist: Akansha Sethi and De Beers Shortlist: Lebrusan Studio, Anchor & Crew, Group Industry Services Ruffs and Purely Diamonds Awards Trophy Sponsored by: Clarity and Success Sponsored by: IJL 22 Member Benefits The Jeweller December 2019 Member Benefits 23

Deliver your goods Simon Forrester Get the Most from with TNT Express With the festive period drawing closer, ensure your stock makes it to its new home on time with TNT’s courier service. NAJ members are entitled to a 40 per cent your Membership discount on standard express delivery rates across the UK and worldwide and includes online tracking, next day delivery and is available for documents, parcels and freight. Introducing the Keep an eye on the Find a Jeweller 2.0 market with Mintel NAJ community Since the launch of the new NAJ website in To take advantage of this discount, please reports November 2018, the team has been working contact the NAJ’s overarching Federation barometer, Find a hard to refine areas of the website in order on 0121 236 2657 to maximise exposure and conversions for Jeweller 2.0 and Mintel has been providing substantial members. industry data reports regarding the industry a reminder of your retail market for many years, giving An increasingly popular feature is the Find invaluable insight for businesses on areas a Jeweller search, which has just received a that are seeing success or decline. significant update. Because each NAJ member At this point Mr Mundie contacted the Better Business has a unique, customisable profile, we’ve taken NAJ launches Compliance Case NAJ for assistance stating, “If this ruling According to Mintel’s latest report (2019), on feedback from both the membership and by the FOS were to stand it would have Support Service. demand for jewellery and watches in the the consumer to amend the search console and Assured Advice study: Non-disclosure a massive impact on honest traders who UK has increased; sales were up 2.9 per cent now offer advanced filters such as ‘Created in NAJ’s partnership with Buckinghamshire and of treated diamonds sell diamonds, they could be up against in 2018 and growth is expected to be even the UK’, ‘Gold Standard’ and ‘RJC Certification’ Surrey Trading Standards makes it easier for dishonest businesses selling treated stronger in 2019. In fact, Mintel estimates highlighting to consumers and the trade, our members to comply with the law and have diamonds without disclosing them.” that the market will increase by 3.5 per cent members’ credentials. One of our members – Gareth Mundie from access to reliable, tailored regulatory advice in 2019, bringing its value to £5.9 billion, Ian Mundie & Son Fine Jewellery, Glasgow NAJ Insight Tools – Find a Jeweller 2.0 brings together suppliers, drawn up by our Trading Standards partner With the assistance of Barry Sullivan FIRV, from £5.7 billion 12 months previous. – recently got in touch with the NAJ’s the NAJ made the FOS aware that there retailers, designers and associates; rather than and be recognised by consumers as having compliance department regarding an issue Barometer have multiple search pages, all members will robust compliance arrangements in place. are strict guidelines regarding disclosure Keeping up to date with the latest trends with non-disclosure of treated diamonds. be under one roof, with the improved console of treated diamonds (set out in the CIBJO and sales figures can help future-proof filtering results accordingly. The latest in the series is on Diamond We are excited to introduce the newest feature your business, allowing you to predict the Mr Mundie was visited by a member of Diamonds Book): to the NAJ website – the Jewellery Retailer terminology, clarifying the different terms upcoming season and adjust your strategies Good news for the NAJ team is for the the public, who wanted their diamond ring Barometer. This community barometer is acceptable for describing natural and “If a diamond has been treated in any way accordingly. increasing numbers of consumer enquiries valued for insurance purposes. updated quarterly and is available for all NAJ synthetic diamonds. into the office, the ‘email results’ button will then full disclosure should be given to members to view in the Member Area of the NAJ members can take advantage of the During Mr Mundie’s inspection of the ring the customer prior to the completion of send the results directly into the mailbox of the The NAJ together with eight of the leading website, in the form of several charts. Mintel report with 25 per cent off the full it was discovered that the central diamond sale whether or not the information was customer for their information. If you haven’t diamond industry organisations has price (£1,995). To claim your discount code, updated your profile yet, now is the time to do of the cluster was High Pressure High requested. If a diamond is purely termed produced a Diamond Terminology Guideline This activity aims to understand the issues contact [email protected]. so in order to stand out from the crowd. Temperature treated (HPHT). The customer diamond with no prefix, then it is assumed document with the aim of clarifying what can that retailers are facing and how they was not aware they had purchased a treated that it is natural.” are affecting business. For example, the and can’t be said when referring to synthetic diamond. The receipt and valuation from barometer looks at whether members have and natural diamonds. We have worked the online retailer did not mention HPHT. with our Primary Authority Partner to make Given chance to review the complaint reported sales increasing during the last The online retailer was given the chance to this Assured Advice, adding an extra layer again, the FOS changed its opinion and quarter along with staff hours and whether NAJ members can take advantage of the The new and updated Find a Jeweller is put the situation right but refused. of protection for not only the public, but determined that the customer would be these changes were expected by the business. Mintel report with 25 per cent off the full now live, and members can use the step by members alike. entitled to a Section 75 Claim based on price (£1,995). To claim your discount step ‘update your profile’ tool by visiting As the purchase had been made using a “mis-representation by omission”. Alongside current happenings, the barometer code, contact [email protected] naj.co.uk/updatemyprofile. credit card Mr Mundie suggested that the We launched this advice to the consumer and also looks at future developments such as customer raise a Section 75 complaint based trade press at an event held at Claridges in Mr Mundie stated, “While I still believe whether businesses are looking to sell or buy on misrepresentation of goods. late November. the FOS has a basic misunderstanding of stores, recruit more staff, or enrol on training, the law regarding consumer protection or which complements the ‘optimism index’; The credit card company rejected the claim NAJ supports our primary authority partner Trading Standards, my customer is happy feedback on how optimistic members are and the customer subsequently appealed to to understand the regulatory needs and with the outcome. I hope that the NAJ's about the next quarter of trading. the Financial Ombudsman Service (FOS). working practices of our members, helping The finding of the FOS was that it didn’t good work regarding diamond terminology to create Primary Authority Advice that’s think there had been a breach of contract and Trading Standards will continue, thus If you are a retail business interested in right for you. Primary Authority Advice and they were upholding the decision to offering the consumer greater protection taking part in this exercise, look out for is “Assured” which means that provided refuse the section 75 chargeback. and a more honest jewellery trade.” our barometer alert in your quarterly NAJ members follow it, they should be protected newsletter. against the risk of enforcement action from authorities that have different views on what they should be doing to achieve compliance. Did you know the NAJ in-house To read the NAJ’s consumer advice on Assured Advice can help members To submit your answers and mediation service is able to advise and buying diamonds, which includes a new understand: view the latest report visit mediate between parties, helping you video of Chief Executive Simon Forrester naj.co.uk/barometer • which legal requirements apply (or your customer) come to a solution, referring to diamond terminology, visit • how to achieve compliance legally and confidentially. naj.co.uk/advice/buying-diamonds • whether controls in place are acceptable 24 Member Benefits The Jeweller

Katie Gillespie left Better Business Received 09:47 6th November 2019 Support Service Subject: Hallmarking change of use I’d like to transform this spoon into a bangle. It is hallmarked already but I wanted to check in HR, tax, health & safety and legal advice can case I needed to do something different. be costly, and things can turn even more Makes Jewellery Sparkle! expensive without adequate advice. For both of these reasons, the NAJ pays a specialist Reply: trade association supplier a significant sum annually to be ‘on call’ for members to talk The practice of altering already hallmarked Contact us to become a stockist articles is becoming increasingly popular – to and ensure the business gets the service • Professional After Care and advice it’s due. below are guidelines from The Assay Office on this process. Where an item already • Brilliant Sales Aid bearing a hallmark is changed on purpose, • Cleans, Polishes and Protects The hotline is available 24 hours a day, such as shaping a spoon to become a bangle, seven days a week and 365 days a year for it still needs to be submitted to an Assay Office • Free Branding NEW HR and legal advice, while tax and health for verification to ensure its provenance is NEW HYGEINE SEAL & safety advice is available during office detailed. Failure to do so is breaking the law. WATCH FOR EARRINGS hours. Members also have access to a ‘vault’ CLOTH of template documents from the Better The process of granting consent for alterations Business Support service such as: Compliance is termed ‘Change of Use’. Conundrums There are four possible outcomes: YOURS, ALWAYS X Health & Safety 1. If you change an item from one form to As a new regular feature, Katie Gillespie, another, without adding any metal to the 100 free downloads including: NAJ compliance manager, shares some of product, the metal will be assayed to ensure SECURE EARRING BACKS the existing hallmark is valid and a reference Risk assessments and audits the useful information that has come into the Sell more high value earrings and First aid and RIDDOR number will be added to the piece and offer consumers added security compliance mailbox over the last few months. assigned to a change-of use certificate, which Fire safety Tel: 01223 828718 can accompany the piece when it is sold. Email: [email protected] Hypo-Allergenic 2. If you add metal to the original item www.connoisseursUK.com Comfortable Human Resources and change its use, it can be assayed and Received 15:01 14th November 2019 hallmarked in its own right. Cross-hatching Non-slip – butterfly 400 free downloads including: is applied over the existing mark, leaving Safe Subject: Ticket prices on display the provenance of the original hallmark and Recruitment and selection applying a new hallmark on to the piece at the Contracts of employment Today I had a customer make a comment appropriate standard. Grievance, mediation and discipline about our tickets, and how they have to be ‘connected’ to each item in our store. Is this 3. If you add metal to the original item, which something you can give me advice on – I’m has not had its use changed, an additions Legal really not sure how the land lies here? mark can be applied. Free Training Events 4. If there is no hallmark on an item, irrelevant National events will be held at the NAJ 200 free downloads including of whether the use of it has been changed or GDPR guides and checklists Reply: had parts added, it needs to be submitted Suppliers and contracts for a new hallmark. This also applies if the Debt recovery This is an interesting one. In summary of item hallmark is deemed illegible. 7, points 1 & 2 of the Price Marking Order 2004, pricing information must be given close to the goods; this can be on the goods themselves or on a ticket or notice near to In order to access the vault of template the goods. The pricing information should documents, and hotline, members be clearly visible to consumers without them Received 14:34 17th October 2019 should contact the membership team having to ask for assistance in order to see it. via [email protected] Subject: Lost stones T&Cs Items displayed for sale in a shop window should display pricing information as per the We’ve had some issues with customers losing aforementioned requirements. Exceptions to stones. Is there a ‘to the point’ example of this are jewellery, precious metal or watches something we can state in our ‘terms and where the individual selling price is more than conditions’ at the point of sale? £3,000. These goods need not bear pricing information in close proximity to the item. Reply: However, the pricing information must still be given elsewhere – for example, by means of At the very least, the following recommendation a price list in-store. could be made to the customer:

All diamonds and gemstones are hand-set and fully checked before being sold or dispatched. Stones and settings should not become loose, dislodged or damaged unless If you have an enquiry, it’s always best as a result of an impact, rough handling or to contact Katie, or consult the Better damage. We therefore recommend you Business toolbox: fully insure your jewellery to protect yourself against any accidental damage or loss. To Email [email protected] ensure your jewellery is in the best condition it Visit naj.co.uk/better-business- should be checked and serviced annually.

CON0195 Mulberry Media Ad A4 NEW.indd 2 20/09/2019 16:33 26 Trends The Jeweller December 2019 Trends 27

Lady Hale knows it, Michelle Obama knows it, Coco Chanel knew it, Her Majesty knows it…

CW Sellors brooches never go out of style, says Belinda Morris.

Kohinoor

Farah Qureshi Pinterest k, so their fortunes wax and Ole Lynggaard wane; they have their moments Copenhagen in the spotlight then step aside for chandelier earrings or chunky gold chains. But brooches (or pins as they’re known in the US) will never Ofade away – they’re just too useful and they have a lot to say. The huge spider brooch worn by Supreme Court president, Lady Hale, when she declared the PM’s prorogation of parliament “void and of no effect” certainly spoke pretty eloquently! “The quiet power of Ute Decker the well-placed brooch” observed Vogue.com.

If the coded message was lost on Tweeters and Instagrammers, the fashion statement wasn’t – apparently there was a significant rush on-line for arachnid brooches… not just in the UK but internationally too. Good news.

Certainly it’s good news for those designers, brands and retailers who love brooches as much as I do. Just as pearls are no longer the sole preserve of an older ‘twin-set’ generation, so brooches deserve a place in any jewellery box. While the Queen demonstrates very neatly that the best position for a brooch (particularly Fei Liu a sizable one) is to the side of a lapel, not on it (where it Amrapali can make the fabric flop), there are numerous ways to carry one off. 28 Trends The Jeweller The complete solution Pinterest continued for today’s jeweller In Roman times brooches (known as fibulae) were functional as well as decorative – they held together pieces of cloth wrapped round the body or neck. And while this is not an admission I’d wish my mother to read, I’ve frequently used a brooch to replace a missing button on a jacket or cardigan. Call it laziness if you like; I prefer to think of it as creative quirkiness. I’ve also attached brooches to hats and handbags to (hopefully) charming effect and a brooch over the done-up top TAKE A button of a white shirt is very chic indeed. CLOSER LOOK SEE GEMVISION “Fashion is about making a statement, and brooches AND COHERENT AT are a great way to do this, whether that be a statement VICENZAORO T.GOLD of glamour, or of individuality,” says Penelope Gilliver, cataloguer from the Jewellery Department at Fellows Vicenza, Italy Auctioneers. “Brooches of considerable age, such as 17-22 January diamond brooches of crescent or star design from the late 19th century, consistently sell well at auction, along with novelty brooches, particularly those designed as animals.” Wallace Chan From industry leading 3D CAD software from Gemvision, to the unparalleled quality of Rebecca Sellors at CW Sellors agrees. “Since launching the 74-piece House Style collection which featured EnvisionTEC 3D printers and the world's favourite laser welding and engraving solutions many brooches (as well as pendants, rings and from Coherent, GVUK Design has the complete solution and toolbox for your business. earrings), inspired by the late Duchess of Devonshire at Chatsworth, we’ve seen an increase in brooch sales,” she says. “I think they’re very much on trend currently, particular anything inspired by nature such as DESIGN & PRESENT PRINT & MANUFACTURE CUSTOMISE & REPAIR dragonflies, butterflies, spiders etc.”

ENVISIONTEC VIDA HD CDLM Coherent and Ro‡ n have now merged, Sarah Zuang 3D PRINTER creating a new global brand A new dimension to jewellery as one of the world's leading The latest technology in design, combining Matrix, manufacturers of high-performance 3D jewellery printing RhinoGold, Rhino and Clayoo. lasers, from laser engraving and cutting The most cost-e ective to laser welding in all materials. printer on the market

Full build in around 1 hour Tomasz Donocik COHERENT Cost-e ective 3D design software 90% wax prototype models EASYJEWEL MK5 for retailers and online jewellers. in under 1 hour The new EasyJewel Mk5 provides marking, engraving and cutting in one complete Susan Caplan solution while the desktop and Performance welders NEW bring high quality ONLINE STREAMING VERSION invisible repairs in all metals. For use on any internet abled device.

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GVUK0035_NAJ Full Page Advert_November19_210x297mm_v3_AW.indd 1 07/11/2019 12:24 30 Trends The Jeweller

Takes just 2 minutes Pinterest continued to assemble!

“Brooches demonstrate wearability and are not Boucheron specifically for the more mature lady,” argues designer Fei Liu, who’s been known to sport some pretty dramatic Costs just variations himself. “The brooch is actually a very diverse Allow your wedding collections to sparkle accessory; it can adorn different parts of the body and from every angle in the best possible light £1499.99 become a different type of accessory. The brooch has using our Mobile Jewellery Showcase Exc VAT & Delivery almost replaced the lapel pin as a man’s accessory. featuring Linea LED Lighting. There’s no boundary [when it comes to] size, therefore ActivWhite technology is available allowing more creativity and personality within the on request, allowing you to control the design.” colour temperature of the in-cabinet lights via the Smartlight App. Designer Tomasz Donocik receives regular private commissions from men for bejewelled brooches (plus Includes: Ghurka) buttons. “Interestingly my own brooches from > Detachable legs & light bridge the Stellar Collection were sold to ladies. (I actually > Solid Oak Construction designed them for me to wear on my lapel when I do > Weighs 27kg shows, to pep-up my suit jacket).” At SJ Pearls there’s > Fits on the back seat of most cars been a resurgence of sales in brooches recently. “We’ve > been asked to find pieces for the mothers of brides, as Swarovski High security lock & toughened glass > 4m cable & plug well as for 21st birthday gifts,” explains Claire Maymon. 01530 382500 “We try to cover all budgets by manufacturing in both www.progressivedisplay.co.uk 9ct and 18ct gold.” [email protected] The scale and sculptural fluidity of Ute Deckers’ Part of the Parify Group jewellery lends itself well to the statement brooch – the latest collection inspired by Japanese calligraphy. “Controlling the balance of composition through asymmetry and irregularity is an important aspect in my work,” she explains. Farah Qureshi’s bold brooch in polished silver with cream freshwater pearls would also complete a coat, jacket or scarf with style. “Brooches are Pandora versatile and effective,” she says. “And they are definitely TM on trend right now.”

Innovation and Quality shines through your people

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For further information E [email protected] T 0115 838 9555 RiverCPD TM – it’s the smarter www.rivercpd.com way to keep track of learning Michelle Ong SJ Pearls 32 JET Business Network The Jeweller EXPRESS SERVICE

7 DAY

Safeguard Business Strategy Valuations

It doesn’t have to be complicated, but strategy is necessary. Michael following retailers: Beaverbrooks, Berry’s, Boodles, FAnchorCert Hinds, Fraser Hart,AnchorCert Signet, TH Birmingham Gem Lab Analytical Assay Office Donaldson, JBN facilitator, offers lessons from UK retail jewellers. Baker, Warren James, and Watches of Switzerland; combined they are estimated to be approximately 40 per cent of the UK jewellery and watch market (based ome say: “It’s not a great time – it’s not complicated. Anyone can cut costs, on Euromonitor market size estimate). If ™ to be in retail”. Aside from the it’s quite simple – just say no more money, AnchorCert DermaKind you have longer, delveAcademy into their accounts, continued growth of internet sales, no more pay rises, no more purchases, no websites and press interviews, and you’ll S retail is beset with rising business more marketing, no more tea bags. It’s glean insights into their strategies; you’ll rates, store closures, unit vacancies and far more difficult to grow and develop a also see that their average store turnover profitable business, product or service. The WE MAKE declining footfall. The economic uncertainty varies between half a million and eight surrounding Brexit and Trump are affecting former tends to be an emotional reaction million – a bracket that probably captures currency rates, metal prices, and consumer and certainly an unsustainable tactic, the the majority of jewellery and watch WE PRINT confidence. latter more of a planned strategy. It ain’t independents. rocket science but it can be challenging – WE DRAW Some retailers say they are just too busy IN physically, mentally, emotionally, financially; And if I were a betting man, I’d bet every their business, to be able to spend time ON and it demands from you time – time to one of them has a strategic plan for their WE ARE... their business; others are simply daunted think about the future shape and direction business. (If they don’t and they’re reading by the word STRATEGY and others by the of your business. this, I’d love to hear fromFind them). out more online thought of producing a strategic growth plan. A quick look through the pages of the www.anchorcertgroup.com AT YOUR SERVICE Many jewellers know they should have a Yet some retailers are bucking the trend and jewellery trade press, or a longer look at the plan but just don’t know where to start. In 0207 608 0058 posting positive results, year after year. Companies House documents, will confirm T 2020 Gemmology 2014 I polled the JBN members and only Computer Aided Design and Manufacture that many of our larger jewellery retailers E [email protected] 17 per cent of them wrote a plan that goes Positive results can be managed by are constantly posting positive results. beyond the key financials and headlines controlling your costs and growing your sales If you have the time, take a look at the Lab Classes for the accountant. At our recent round of Autumn meetings, I repeated the poll and I’m encouraged that 54 per cent of the members write a formal plan for their Coloured Stone Grading Diamond Grading business and the othersWE left the meetings WANT TO BUY YOURsince 1890 with a couple of templates to start writing London London their own planCLIENT’S for 2020. Option A: the six- LUXURY WATCHES Jan 20-22 Jan 27-31 page plan or Option B: the six-paragraphOver 30 years of experience buying & selling luxury watches May 26-28 Jun 1-5 plan; after all, business strategy doesn’t have MEMORY to be complicated, but it is necessary. Birmingham Birmingham R I N G S & Jul 20-22 Jul 13-17 The JBN regional groups meet three times a EARRINGS Jul 27-31 year and once for Congress, yet the benefits Pearl Grading of membershipFREE Valuation are enjoyed - No 365 minimum days a year order – for information on how to join the JBN see 18ct yellow gold London Gem Identification Free registration, no subscription fees with diamonds the box below. London No experience needed – we provide Jan 23 knowledge and expertise May 29 Feb 3-7 Immediate decisions and instant profi ts Birmingham Jun 8-12 with no risks Jul 23 Sep 7-11 Speedy transaction – payment to you within the hour 18ct white gold with blue sapphire Insured postage paid by BQW (insured up • Monthly Performance Reports - enabling • New Flashto Service £15,000) – receive relevant you to benchmark your business against business and Industry articles straight to Contact us for Information or to Enrol other retail jewellers your inbox 18ct rose gold with fancy coloured sapphire • Online Q&AForum – whether you have a • Member Business Surveys – on topics +44 (0) 20 7813 4321 business issue or just seek guidance. You identifiedIT byREALLY the members IS THIS SIMPLE… so call or email us now Rings available in different widths from 1.5mm up to 4mm. [email protected] ask the question and the members answer 18ct gold with diamonds or gemstones in different colours. For an annual subscription of • Plus the opportunity to influence and shape London.GIA.edu £850, you and your business • Educational Store Visits – allow you to see the content of the Annual Oxford Congress R u p p e n t h a l u K lt d and hear what other jewellers are doing • For further information visit the NAJ LoNdoN offIcE: will benefit from the shared We also buy: +44 (0) 208 Call:777 444 3+44, londo n(0)203@ruppentha l .c538om 5132 Registered Charity No: 1101116 • Regional Group Meetings – to discuss the websiteAudemars or call Piguet, Michael Breitling, Donaldson Cartier, Franck Muller, Hublot, IWC, Jaeger knowledge, experience and LeCoultre, Omega, Patek Philippe and other Luxury Watches. Email: [email protected]: GIA® is a registered trademark of Gemological Institute of America, Inc. issues and opportunities they face, as well on: 07817 305 122 or email: michael@ +44 (0) 7534 976906, [email protected] expertise of the JBN – Retail via: as develop new business skills thevalueinnovator.co.ukFollow us: Facebook / Twitter / Instagram BQ Watches, BQW House, 1 Back Lane, Edgware, Middlesex HA8 0HS | [email protected] | bqwatches.com

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8005 Jeweller ISSUE17 Sept-oct MASTER inner_AW2.indd 29 28/09/2018 17:04 34 Better Business Advice The Jeweller December 2019 Gold Market Report 35

Iris Van der Veken, RJC executive director, discusses China’s trade and industrial policies, eroding world economic growth. the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) and how any business in the jewellery supply chain China’s economic growth slowed more than expected to six per cent year-on-year in the can contribute to this global agenda. third quarter, the slackest pace in almost 30 years.

ANZ Bank said in a note it expects gold to be supported by heightened macro and geopolitical risks.

Gold tends to act as a ‘safe haven’ investment Setting Goals in times of heightened global uncertainty. Prospects for a global economic slowdown, or even recession, aggravated by the US-China trade wars, could give support to gold in the coming months, analysts say.

An unofficial poll taken at the London Bullion What are the SDGs and why are you a Market Association (LBMA) conference in leading ambassador for them? Shenzhen, China, in October, put gold prices rising to $1,658 an ounce in a year’s time, The world’s population is expected to reach underpinned by clouds gathering over the 9.8bn by 2050 and is set to eclipse 11bn by global economy. 2100. It was 1bn just 200 years ago. With these numbers in mind, how can mankind Gold was down 0.24 per cent to $1,510.54 an better manage its growth and resource ounce on 4th November. consumption while also ensuring adequate access and opportunity for all? Practices covers many different areas of What steps can any company take to In sterling terms, the cost of gold may be the SDGs. start the journey? linked to how Nigel Farage’s Brexit party The 2030 Agenda’s 17 goals address the fares in the 12th December general election. most urgent issues facing humanity today: 3. Set Goals The point of the SDGs is to create focused The Conservative party is leading in the polls economic disparity, climate change and collective action to tackle global issues – and the risk of a ‘hard’ Brexit is considered to political and social instability. It’s about challenges no company can tackle alone, Select and prioritise the most relevant building trust not only in your company, targets you’re going to measure and track. be reduced, underpinning the pound against requiring a shared approach. Applying the dollar. but also in your markets, your industry and this principle to our industry, we need an This may be based on relevance and the economy as a whole. We need to act and alignment with your business, metrics and integrated approach from mining to retail Among other precious metals, palladium now think long term. to drive this Agenda forward. goals you already track, business objectives and strategies, and those that resonate with costs significantly more than gold, dragging on demand for palladium in men’s wedding The Agenda cites businesses as “major So how do you start? The role of any your employees. bands, jewellers say. drivers of productivity, inclusive economic company small or big is to align their growth and job creation”. The jewellery efforts with the most relevant SDGs for their 4. Integrate Independent jewellers are promoting sales industry has a huge opportunity to business and make positive changes within of platinum wedding bands over gold in contribute to this agenda – it’s all about their sphere of influence. With a shortlist of goals and targets, confidence and product integrity. identify gaps in existing measurements some cases, taking advantage of platinum’s discount to gold prices, while extolling the 1. Understand the SDGs within your and in business practices against the virtues of platinum as a jewellery metal. 2030 may seem a long time off, but there’s business operations list outlined. Setting internal business not a moment to waste. It’s the biggest goals and the plans to meet them will transformation challenge the world has Mapping out your company’s direct help to engage your colleagues regarding UK jewellers are keeping a close eye on the Brexit impact on the pound- Prices of the ‘big three’ coloured gemstones ever faced and it will take all stakeholders and indirect value chain impacts (eg improving opportunities. (rubies, sapphires and emeralds) face to pull it off: business, academic world, key supplier locations, the use of your dollar exchange rate, as gold’s fortunes remain tied to the US-China trade downward risks from increased output by governments, the private sector, civil products or services and direct impacts 5. Communicate, Act and Collaborate wars and the strength of the US economy, says David Brough medium- and large-scale miners, creating society… and all of us as consumers. of your operations and customer/use) will with stakeholders opportunities for retailers to boost margins of help identify where your impact overlaps jewellery set with coloured gemstones. With over 1,200 members the RJC plays with the SDGs, and places where there Communicate regularly with your a very important role in mobilising and might be commercial opportunities in employees and other stakeholders on how Referring to large-scale mining of coloured facilitating companies to make a difference. making a contribution to an SDG. The the efforts are going to make sure your October was the pound’s best month in over making gold cheaper for those holding other gemstones, US gemmologist Richard risk assessment tool of the RJC’s Code of targeted SDGs are visible and become part a decade as Prime Minister Boris Johnson’s currencies. Drucker, who produces the GemGuide Explain the RJC’s partnership with the Practices can help in this journey. of normal business activity. deal with the EU reduced risks of a ‘no-deal’ showing gemstone price trends, told the UN’s Global Compact? Brexit. At the time of going to press, gold price rises Gem-A Conference in November: “We are in 2. Define Priorities Final thought in the near term appeared to be capped by a period of overproduction where shareholder We believe in a Partnership Model. Working As gold prices steadied, the stronger pound progress in trade talks between the world’s interest supersedes market interest.” closely with the UNGC adds tremendous No business can act on all 17 goals or I’m looking forward to identifying made restocking of dollar-denominated gold two largest economies. value for our members, supporting them in prioritise them all equally. Identify those synergies with other organisations; more affordable for UK jewellers in a year of Disclaimer: Any views expressed in this column their sustainability journey through building that really speak to you and your business working closely with our members to very strong bullion prices, buoyed by three But any new souring of trade relations are those of the author and should not be seen as practical toolkits and training material. The and fall within your sphere of influence, build long-term sustainable development US rate cuts. between the US and China could once more investment advice. partnership also gives us the opportunity to allowing you to make the most positive pathways; formulate an actionable roadmap stoke a bullion rally. David Brough is IJL’s Precious Metals & Gems editor. learn from other industries how they tackle impact. Choose the goals that align most and report back on progress made and A climate of falling US interest rates He previously covered commodity markets, including sustainability challenges in their supply closely with your business needs, priorities lessons earned. Working together more increases the appeal to investors of holding The United States and China have slapped precious metals, for Reuters and is editor and co- chain. and stakeholder interests. The Code of closely is the only way forward. non-yielding gold, and weighs on the dollar, tariffs on each other’s goods in a dispute over founder of JewelleryOutlook.com. December 2019 Gold Market Report 37 & &

ARE PROUD TO INVITE YOU TO ARE PROUDO UTOR FINIRVSITT E YOU TO OUR FIRST CHARITY GOLF EVENT TAKING PLACE ON TAKING PLACE ON th Thursday 9th April 2020 Conference The Arden Championship Course Shotgun start 11am 2 19 hile the emphasis of Rebecca Tucker of CW Sellors found cost) to further publicise what your company Conference may be Ben’s workshop very useful: “As a bit of a does best. on the key elements technophobe, I wasn’t sure what to expect W of valuing, with from Ben Massey’s workshop on marketing, “Just one example of how I’ve profited from sessions on various aspects of gemstones, but when the first slide of his presentation using some of Ben’s techniques is by making precious metals, antique jewellery, watches, came up with the words: ‘Marketing is like social media outlets a source of education, hallmarking, price guides, synthetics PROCEEDS TO GO sex; everyone thinks they’re good at it!” interest and entertainment, with only one in PROCEEDS TO GO detection… there’s a holistic approach to well, I knew that it was certainly going to every 10 posts being a direct push for sales. the two days of insight and information be entertaining! As it turned out, it was an As a result, my business’ social media stats gathering. Starting and growing a creative invaluable source of tips and advice on how have increased extensively. I now always business, getting to grips with software, to best use marketing for your business; remember that my audience is following the the reality of eBay, the value of a designer from tailoring and targeting your ideal business first and foremost because they are brand and taking perfect pictures were also audience on social media, to capitalising interested in what we do – clinching a sale at covered this year. on a broader range of facilities (often at no the end of it is just the cherry on the cake!” Ben Massey, the NAJ’s director of marketing and communications presented his first Conference workshop, unequivocally titled: Ben Massey ‘Seven Things You Absolutely Need to be Doing to Market Your Business’. It’s a subject that can give small business owners al Trust in particular sleepless nights. al Trust Knowing what to say and where to say it can be a challenge when presenting services to consumers, so Ben led delegates through the basics of marketing as a concept and For more information, get in touch: the guiding principles. He talked about the For more information, get in touch: need to influence and the tactics to use, the various channels to use for promotion [email protected] naj.co.uk/whats-on 0121 233 1110 (and which are most cost-effective), how to [email protected] naj.co.uk/whats-on 0121 233 1110 get to the top of Google SEO, social media, expenditure v. progress and what a website For sponsorship opportunities, contact Garry Lane on 07741554011 aims to do. He also reminded delegates that For sponsorship opportunities, contact Garry Lane on 07741554011 the NAJ can offer help with websites. 38 NAJ News The Jeweller

Kerry Gregory figure. This is particularly significant when Even though I attended on Sunday only, I trying to distinguish between blue topaz was overwhelmed by so much knowledge, and aquamarine, for example. Aquamarine experience and help from fellow delegates. will typically show a dark cross within It’s left me thirsting for more. Conference a concentric circle, indicating that it is 2020 here I come! uniaxial and has one optic axis, whereas blue topaz will exhibit a pattern of two Lavinia Pryce curved brushes because it is biaxial and has two optic axis. Decades of Design – late 19th/ The refractometer can be a difficult instrument to use, particularly if two early 20th Centuries, with Steve gemstones have very similar or overlapping Carson refractive indices. The main consideration when separating similar gemstones is not to Design is almost never original – it’s a make assumptions that the material can be mere adaptation of something once already identified purely by colour alone! created in history. It can be easy to forget, in this fast-moving digital environment, the Hannah McWhirter importance of historical jewellery design periods and movements. As a newcomer to the Conference, it was wonderful to learn Taking the Headache out of Welcome to Valuing with Shirley that we must not forget the roots of jewellery Gemstone Separation with Kerry design. Steve Carson produced a passionate Mitchell and Tim Bicknell and informative insight into design of the Gregory late 19th and early 20th centuries. This was my first Conference and at the Kerry’s informative workshop concerned the beginning of the first of three workshop Highlights included a reminder of how complexities of similar looking gemstones sessions we were eased in to the concept culturally diverse we were in the early 1880s. and the best methods of quickly separating of valuing, what it is and who requires it. For instance: women wore lockets featuring them without resorting to any pain-killers! The different obstacles and issues, which Indian gods, and at that time, diamonds were can arise throughout the process, were at one point mostly worn in the evenings. It’s becoming more evident that the highlighted. The take-in procedure and Setting the scene, Steve Carson factually growth of internet shopping and the fact Due Diligence were explained, with visuals explored and illustrated important jewellery that consumers are travelling further, has and examples of jewellery from Shirley's sold at recent auctions, featuring designers encouraged the emergence of more unusual personal collection. such as Oscar Masin , Murrle Bennett & Co, gemstones on the market. Some of these Georgina and Arthur Gaskin and Theodore have such complicated names that it’s a The second workshop session continued Fahrner. matter of learning to pronounce them let with description and mandatory cataloguing alone identify them. procedures and the importance of Steve mentioned The Great Exhibition of recording details correctly, effectively and 1851, a series of world fairs. William Morris With all gemstones the main issue is the reasons why. Tim and Shirley shared described the exhibition as “wonderfully observation and learning to recognise their experiences with the delegates on ugly”! The 1890s saw René Jules Lalique distinguishing features before using any these matters. A mounting and casting emerging, who continues to inspire other gem-testing methods. Armed with briefing included more visual, practice and designers to this day, Pierre Vievers, George a loupe you can gain a lot of information describing, followed by a discussion on the Fouquet, Lucien Gaillard – an experimental by unusual inclusions, colour and lustre. contents to be included in a professional designer. Art Nouveau, running alongside There are also some informative websites, valuation report. the Arts and Crafts movement, and which have pictures of inclusions and other importantly the establishment of the Guild distinctive features of both common and The final session was based on visual of Handicrafts formed by Robert Ashbee, more unusual gemstones. When examining examinations and comparing diamonds influencing Bahaus and Modernism an unusual gemstone, a gemmologist could and gemstones, with Tim taking charge of movements and inspiring artists such as be compared to a forensic scientist, listing the diamonds section and Shirley handling Phoebe Traquair were all highlighted. and profiling distinguishing features, thus the coloured gemstones angle of the creating a database for future reference. session. Both explained and demonstrated The 19th century was a period of huge the importance of noticing, examining, industrial and social change and jewellery Gem testing equipment varies in recording and using a colour grade chart. design focus was in the past. We delved technological complexities; however Kerry A visual practical was incorporated with into the work of Murrle Bennet, a distinctive emphasised the polariscope as the primary rubies, tanzanite, emeralds, sapphires and jewellery business established in London in gem-testing instrument to facilitate a quick diamonds for assessing and comparing 1884 and producing designs characterised differentiation between stones with similar colour and internal flaws. How and when to by abstract motifs of both the Art Nouveau features. Not only can it identify a gemstone use Gemguide and price guide tools – which and the Arts and Crafts movements. Steve with single or double refraction, but is also can assist – was explained. concluded his presentation with Theodor very useful for identifying paste, which Fahrner, highlighting his use of a range exhibits a diagnostic double wavy line This workshop was welcoming and of materials such as enamel, marcasite pattern which forms a cross as the material relaxed, with Shirley’s and Tim’s expert, and gemstones. I look forward to further is rotated. knowledgeable and detailed sessions presentations by Steve, who conveys to aided by effective presentation and a valuers the importance of history in modern The polariscope may also be used in Welcome to Valuing Booklet hand-out. The times. conjunction with a conoscope; this is a visual practices and observation within small glass rod which when rolled over the teachings gave an insight into the CAT student Raji Ashwin, Watches of the gemstone may reveal an interference examining and assessing aspect of valuing. Switzerland 40 Visual Merchandising The Jeweller December 2019 Visual Merchandising 41

To thrive in retail today it’s not SIMON JOHNSON, GEM LAB AT MARMALADE, CHISWICK, enough to simply look good and LONDON

carry great stock… changing “In an effort to recognise that the internet is ever encroaching on retail sales, we decided times require a fresh look at the to reinforce our qualifications and skill set by adding the Lab onsite so clients could rules of consumer engagement, see what and how we do valuations and stone assessments. They can see that we are says Belinda Morris. trustworthy and qualified to handle their high value items, and that they are safe while in our care. Basically… a reason for them to have to come to the shop.

“So we renovated the basement of our store to convert it into a valuations/gem laboratory. We opted for a clean, clinical Marmalade Gem Lab laboratory look, using slate grey units with white kitchen work surfaces, in order to keep it clean and find any naughty gemstones trying to run away! We used gloss white slat walls with stainless steel runners for the wall fixings and grey carpet tiles for the floor. I wanted the equipment to be open and out on display and we’ve created a space that clients can sit in while their items are being assessed.

“As well as looking lovely, the Lab really adds validation to our service offering. We’ve also done the new branding, packaging and website to suit. It's mostly consumer facing now but we hope to be offering trade services further down the road.”

Lister Horsfall

NICK HORSFALL, MD LISTER “We’ve developed a brand identity for our stores over the last few years, in keeping HORSFALL, ILKLEY with our history as a county jeweller with “The purpose of visual merchandising is “For instance, there are a growing number delivering new products – “good retail a contemporary twist. It was important “Our showroom is located in the centre of to attract, engage and motivate customers developing their own jewellery ranges and doesn’t make you sift through heaps of to have an inviting and luxurious Ilkley and over the years the business has to buy,” says Cathie Osborne, founder of therefore need to reflect this changing offer options in order to find the newest and best, environment where customers felt at ease grown but we struggled with the space that packaging company Hatton & Spencer. “To in store layouts, through VM and graphic it presents it to you… ta da! Anything the to relax and enjoy the moment. Like our we had. We needed to increase our footprint stand out from the crowd you really need storytelling as well as in unique display retailer can do to give leverage to one or all Halifax showroom, we’ve used walnut and and have been negotiating with adjacent to tell a story and speak to the customer’s furniture. of those things will give them a competitive rich neutral colours throughout, but the businesses for the last 10 years. Now, the new showroom has a more contemporary imagination, from fashion trends and advantage. Having a good-looking store just store is 1,500 sq ft over two floors, with a edge. provenance-at-the-bench, to romance and "Space that was once dominated by the isn’t good enough any more.” the meanings behind your products.” brands is also being reimagined to improve Marmalade Gem Lab further 1,500 sq ft for back office. customer service areas, accommodate “We’ve increased the internal display areas “The high street is changing,” says Scot more events or to showcase a specialism “I knew how I wanted the space to work. We’d with a curved cabinet and free standing Walker of Parify (LED Display Lighting) like engraving or even a fully operational worked with Jo Coleman from Nason Foster display table, giving customers much CHANGING RETAIL and Progressive Display, “and retailers who ‘visible’ workshop.” on a previous fit-out and she helped us on the more space to browse freely. The overall LANDSCAPE say people are not buying, perhaps don’t design stages of this one, which was great. It display and seating area has increased Kirsty Egan-Carter of Shopworks feels understand the demographic that is buying was a significant expansion, as we were not significantly, offering clients more privacy, One of the biggest developments in visual that in the last 12 months “it has become today – how and when they are buying.” only increasing in size, but also taking space both on the showroom floor, our lounge merchandising, according to Rebecca apparent that the retailers who’re working Maybe, he suggests, we need to look at the above. We wanted an inviting and spacious and hospitality area upstairs or private area Sharman of Innovare Design, has been hard to differentiate their stories from on- Continental model – shops open from 12 showroom, plus a hospitality area, with the downstairs. We’ve installed Parify lighting the impact of the waning popularity and line, are the ones who’re winning”. As she noon until mid evening; a time when many different floors feeling connected. The atrium throughout – which can be adapted to suit strength of the fashion jewellery brands sees it, the key opportunities lie in: enabling potential fine jewellery customers will be and double height chandelier pulls the space different occasions, such as when we hold (and the demise of some). “We’ve been customers to touch and experience products out, pre- and post-restaurant dining. “To be together. events.” helping clients to explore how to retake before they buy; delivering face-to-face competitive, jewellers need to communicate ownership of their store space and exploit expert and specialist customer service; closely with other boutique owners to look the new opportunities. immediacy and instant gratification and at adjusting hours of trade.” 42 Visual Merchandising The Jeweller December 2019 Visual Merchandising 43

ROX, GLASGOW RETAIL PERFORMANCE themselves in-store and online in a relevant WINDOWS way that will engage new and existing ROX is to open a new concept boutique The word ‘experience’ is bandied about customers. We call this brand storytelling." “Jewellery and watch displays continue to in Argyll Arcade in Glasgow; a two-phase ad nauseum these days, but undoubtedly move in a more ‘curatorial’ direction,” says store development programme to create retail jewellers are having to think outside “Retailers have definitely been giving focus Rebecca Sharman. “This more modern Scotland’s largest jewellery and watch the usual box in order to thrive. Rebecca to customer hospitality and services areas, ‘less is more’ approach to VM starts from boutique on one floor. It will be the brand’s Sharman agrees: “Experience may be soft furnishings and a relaxed atmosphere the shop window and tempts customers third store in the Arcade. Initial works have an over-used term, but it really matters partnered with in-house branding, colours inside to see more. It also allows for an ever- commenced to restore the original 900 to customers. With so much choice in and signage – showing strength and loyalty changing, fresh window display that entices sq ft boutique in the Arcade, with the new the retail market, vying for customers’ to their customers,” explains Suzanne passers by.” boutique opening in time for the Christmas attention should be a full time strategic Robinson of VM & Events. She also points shopping period. job for all retailers. But authenticity is also out that increasing numbers of retailers are Scot Walker has a tip for his clients who critical for customers,” she adds. “It’s no entertaining their customers by holding have concerns about the impact of their Phase two is scheduled to begin next year good designing some exciting immersive VIP events – from Champagne receptions to windows. “I tell them to stand on the to the building behind the Arcade. The new gimmick if it has no relevance to who you black-tie dinners. “It makes their customers opposite side of the street and look at their boutique will house the ROX signature are or what you sell. As designers it’s our job feel special, and in a way, thanked for their shop; see what a passer-by sees,” he says. Champagne bar, shop-in-shops, private to help clients understand how to express continued business,” she adds. “Refreshing the look of windows creates a shopping areas, a whisky and cigar lounge huge boost to a presence on the high street. and a ROX Café. In addition, there will be Light boxes and video screens, for instance, an exhibition and events space where arts allows you to change the look.” and fashion partnerships and pop-ups will be regularly showcased, plus a workshop Jameson & Carry (VM & Events) area which will bring customers closer to HATTON & SPENCER’S CATHIE OSBORNE the product. OFFERS TIPS ON EFFECTIVE WINDOWS “We’ve been planning this concept store for many years and as we celebrate 10 • Showcasing icon pieces avoids the years of success of the ‘Thrill Room’ at our ‘magpie effect’ that detracts from the Argyll Arcade flagship, now is the perfect ‘specialness’ of individual items, and time to evolve our experiential offer,” says helps to add uniqueness to emotional Kyron Keogh, MD, “Buying habits have and subjective purchases changed and consumers are shopping in a completely different way to how they did 10 • Create a focal point in your display years ago, especially in the luxury sector. to draw attention of passing crowds – The new store will be quintessentially ROX consider items either suspended from but we must appeal to a new generation of the top, or built up from the base to shopper that has grown up in the digital era reach eye level and lives their life at the forefront of fashion. For us this project is all about redefining the • Just because you know about the brand-consumer relationship.” product, don’t assume the customer does. Stories and product descriptions can be very powerful

• Space in a window is just as important as where the merchandise is – space Harriet Kelsall Bespoke Jewellery equals luxury: if you cram items together they’ll look cheap

• Keep window displays fresh – change up displays to avoid potential HARRIET KELSALL BESPOKE cabinets. There’s a fine line between being with staff standing behind them, a long consumers becoming accustomed to the so different that browsers don’t recognise time ago; we don’t employ sales people appearance of your shop window. Plan JEWELLERY, LONDON you as a ‘proper’ jewellers and having a – customers are helped directly by our visual merchandising six-months at a clear identity that sets you apart. We think designers. time to keep up to date with trends and 2019 INSPIRING INDEPENDENTS we have got this balance about right. be creative! AWARD: BEST USE OF VISUAL MERCHANDISING & STORE DESIGN “The unit’s large window gives us the “We went for a more ‘urban studio’ feel opportunity to be creative with displays “We wanted our Primrose Hill studio to – with a large concrete feature wall and and (importantly) for customers to be have a more urban feel while keeping our exposed air conditioning pipes, which able to see clearly inside. Our window brand identity: designer drawing boards; helped this idea come to life; the space displays are coordinated centrally recognisable chandeliers and customer was a challenge for Callum Lumsden and with seasonal themes and themes that thank you cards on pin boards. his design team. Our colourful pull-out illustrate our brand such as Fairtrade, drawers not only help to explain bespoke hand-making and design. We like to show “We’ve always tried to be as different as but are also clever space savers. We mix up a wide range of jewellery in the window possible to other jewellers – to engage jewellery displays and information in these which helps to bring people into the browsers with the idea of clean-sheet drawers, adding to the sense of discovery by store as well as show that bespoke isn’t bespoke, rather than just buying from browsers. We ditched traditional counters, necessarily an expensive option.”

Clogau Compose (Innovare) 44 Visual Merchandising The Jeweller December 2019 Visual Merchandising 45

SUSTAINABILITY

“Sustainability is a new topic of conversation for all small UK business right now,” says Rebecca Sharman. "And for the retail environment this is an emerging concept for some of our clients. Obviously as interior designers we specify as much as we can from a sustainable materials palette but what is changing is that more and more ecological materials are becoming available to us. And we are doing a lot more of up- cycling materials where we can, especially furniture, but this isn’t appropriate for all brands. As far as lighting goes, the advent of LED lighting has resulted in major improvements in energy efficiency right across the retail sector."

“There has certainly been a move away from heavy perspex and plastic fittings,” adds Suzanne Robinson. “Recent projects Jaycom have been trending for luxury fabrics and natural materials for creative theming. I’ve also noticed that we’ve been using UK suppliers for all our materials rather then looking further afield!” This year Kudos Giftwrap has sourced an entirely eco- friendly recycled range, which is proving very popular.

Rocks Stillorgan (Innovare) Georgina Austin at display company TJDC anticipates a green Christmas. “As brands Hatton & Spencer continue to increase their sustainable efforts, we see visual merchandisers turn FOPE, LONDON to pine cones rather than glitter,” she DISPLAY, PACKAGING & “These days, your packaging says large enough to see by someone walking or says. “This natural trend emerges from everything about your brand and your RETAIL SPACE driving by,” says Jaycom’s Chandni Tanna. Italian fine jewellery brand FOPE launched customers’ desire for brands to address products,” she adds. “We’re here to assist “And they also like something new that’s in its first London flagship in Old Bond Street environmental issues. The muted colour the jeweller achieve the impact they want line with wider interior design and fashion “Store layouts are becoming less formal. last month as part of its 90th anniversary palette, combined with natural textures, and hope they’ll find inspiration in our trends.” The traditional cash desk is a thing of the celebrations – its second stand-alone store, result in displays that are welcoming with a specially-selected, stylish packaging and past as now there so many different ways the first being in Venice. The store is a joint winter flair.” display ranges – complete with the finishing Ronnie Devine of Kudos Giftwrap explains to pay – cash transactions have become venture with The Watches of Switzerland touches that add the wow factor. Get it right that for online, customers are realising relatively rare,” says Peter Cunningham Group, which has sold FOPE jewellery in and you’ll make customers feel special and that the packaging is very important. “So of Design CLD. “This means less barriers select Mappin & Webb and Goldsmiths shops make your product even more memorable. we have been producing better, more between consultants and customers; desks across the UK for several years. Using the art of the reveal creates attractive delivery packaging to create have given way to coffee tables and lounge theatre and tells a story to add depth and brand engagement at point of delivery for chairs. For big purchases exclusive VIP The interior of the Bond Street store was personality to your brand experience.” a more engaging unboxing experience. rooms offer the retailer opportunity to build designed by Italian architect Flavio Albanese Online packaging has previously been relationships by pampering the customer While retailers may have their own themes and his Asastudio and it features all elements viewed as a necessary evil,” he adds, “but and creating a relaxed atmosphere in which and colour schemes in mind, display and of FOPE’s brand identity, including sharp more are becoming aware of the importance to sell. Another trend, which is influencing packaging suppliers work hard to create lines, subtle elegance and soft tones of of investing in their brand and creating that showroom design, is the power of marketing new directions and moods. Sodem’s display green. The interior is divided into the great moment of arrival.” main exhibition space, with a high ceiling via social media. It’s not unusual to create solutions and jewellery boxes ooze refined overlooking the central counter, and a more exciting feature areas (often branded) to sophistication that works in contemporary Osborne also suggests retailers “keep intimate space for private client meetings on a serve as backgrounds for selfies.” as well as traditional stores. Clear thought up-to-date with the latest technologies mezzanine floor. has been applied to creating the best and “Build on your brand by incorporating the most flexible backdrop for all types of in omni-channel retail and elsewhere online. A designated space for a ‘click & The inspiration integrates and balances right packaging, interior décor, furniture and jewellery in any setting. traditional British elements, the distinguishing channelling your brand colours and motifs collect’ service will highlight the offering marks of FOPE style and references to Italian throughout your interior space – make your At Jaycom necklace stands are curvaceous to customers, encouraging them to engage design from the 1950s. The historic ceiling, brand more than just a logo,” advises Cathie forms inspired by human silhouettes and with your brand online as well as in store.” the white stuccos, the soft velvet curtains, and Osborne. “And while they may not be a sea life shapes merging together, echoing She adds that reducing friction in the the dark wood flooring complement the green new concept, ‘touch and feel’ units allow stones in jewellery from the earth or the purchase process can encourage sales by walls, satin brass details of the furnishings and customers to interact with product in a sea. Contemporary rose gold/yellow gold helping customers find what they want the large custom-made chandelier. relaxed and informal way – and are a source accents can modernise traditional shops, more easily. “Separate areas of your store of boosted sales for many fast-growing as well as complement sleek, modern with clear purpose – consider an ‘Instagram’ brands. It’s important that customers feel shops and concessions. “Customers want space, ‘newness’, ‘own brand’ or ‘bridal’ areas comfortable to try on pieces.” eye-catching window displays that are for example.” FOPE London Flagship 46 Visual Merchandising The Jeweller December 2019 Visual Merchandising 47

OPINION JAMES RUDGE, MD A BREXIT EFFECT? JEWELLERS, GRANTHAM, So, has Brexit uncertainty caused a CONSULTANT JUDY HEAD, 2019 INSPIRING INDEPENDENT BEST downturn in retail spending? “In some sectors we’ve witnessed cautiousness,” HEAD CREATIVE STUDIOS NEWCOMER AWARD says Rebecca Sharman. “However, it’s not all down to Brexit! There’s a perfect storm How visual merchandising can help create a sale… even in these “The concept for our current shop was light, out there with rising overheads, changing challenging times: airy, clean and most of all, low cost. We had consumer habits and Brexit. However, the six days to turn a dark, dated shop into a latest Mintel market insights report shows • I don’t belong to the school of retail theory that states everything has relaxing, peaceful retail space. We envisaged the UK Jewellery & Watch retail sector is gone on-line. Research shows that small independents are holding their an open gallery style, with freedom to actually showing good growth. Those clients own against shopping malls and internet-only retailers. Many of these walk around and admire our jewellery in who have stuck to their store development jewellers are in secondary positions and offer services such as valuations, comfort, keeping visitors’ focus on displays, programmes are now reaping the rewards. re-modelling of old jewellery, bespoke, repairs and pre-worn sales. There’s while avoiding being stark. Our £3,000 So, despite the media’s obsession with bad always a reason for going into a shop like that. refit budget meant we had to be inventive news stories, there are actually plenty of and resourceful: using furniture from retail success stories too.” • On-line is just part of the story. It’s essential for testimonials, opening/ high street shops, upcycling old display closing times and location details. But services offered should be an cabinets – stripping and hand painting them “I think the uncertainty around the BREXIT essential part of window displays, and rarely is in my experience. Social ourselves; bargain-hunting vintage shops process has led to delayed spending media is useful for mentioning day-to-day activities; websites describe for props to liven up the main window and decisions, but it’s hard to just pull the product, skills and services offered; but window displays should celebrate SODEM - Display Solutions - Anthracite internal display, all add to something a little shutters down and wait for better times," the staff and their skills… and product. They should entertain, inform and different. says Peter Cunningham of Design CLD. inspire. “Our planned new shop will have a slightly "After all, since 2008 we have been living • The challenging retail climate encourages retailers to be safe in their different appearance. All internal showcases through a time of great change. BREXIT stock choices, with a resigned acceptance of merchandising materials are being bespoke-made, so they fill the is a symptom of this but it’s not the only that can be uninspiring. The clutter of unknown brands creates confusion. space exactly the way we want them. We’ve one; we’ve had the financial crash, political Surely it would improve sales prospects if stores used their own display worked incredibly hard to create a store turmoil and dire predictions of climate material, integrating useful images or logo blocks from suppliers? that not only we will be immensely proud change and what’s more, no sign of a of, but our customers will enjoy coming conclusion. • Free display IS hard work and not everyone has the time to dress a window to even more. Our colour palettes and feel imaginatively every morning. But it creates excitement and allows for for the store will remain along the lines of “Yet, I’d say many of our clients have flexibility by changing the display as often as possible. A window that’s our original concept. We wanted to show flourished during this period. I’d put this been dressed by someone who loves the stock, is proud of the services of as much of the Grade 2-listed building down to a willingness to recognise and face offered and enjoys what they’re doing, will always grab the attention. Once as possible; to be sympathetic without up to the challenges with an open mind and stock is in the windows, it can be tidied/adjusted throughout the day – detracting from the key focus – we’re a flexibility. Everything’s up for grabs and activity attracts attention. jewellery business. fortune favours the brave.”

“The main showroom is exactly the same size as our current shop, however it’s a more usable space. We’re converting an old storage room into a private consultation room, completely redesigning the Kudos showroom itself and integrating an on-site workshop. The large double frontage allows us to rethink the way we display jewellery, making use of the new space to showcase new collections in a more visually pleasing way. Ultimately we can become the jewellery company we always wanted to be.

“Project managing a full shop refit was more than we wanted to take on, so Scot Walker of Parify is carrying out all work and building our bespoke showcases. As we worked through the design with him and his project manager, they suggested alterations that from their experience would enhance the appearance and functionality of our finished store. I’d highly recommend this approach to anyone thinking of doing the same: they have taken control of everything and thought of tiny details that we hadn't. We knew what we wanted and between us we are making it happen.”

MD Jewellers Harriet Kelsall Bespoke Jewellery Laings (VM & Events) 48 Visual Merchandising The Jeweller December 2019 Member Profile 49

Who can become a retail member and how? RICHARD BURTON, THORPE jewellery. We exposed ceiling joists and laid walnut flooring for a warm sumptuous THJ has been consolidating over the LE SOKEN, ESSEX feel. We also left in place the bark-covered last couple of years as it has undergone a stair banisters, as a nod to the countryside The Hallmark degree of restructuring and is now ready “When I took this shop on I wanted to move surrounding us. Black gloss cabinets and to consider membership applications from away from the old model of a traditional counter front complement the flooring and independent retail jewellers as well as trade jewellers with built-in cabinets; to connect continue the contemporary/ traditional look. suppliers. The Group has just welcomed with the modern-day consumer who’s its newest member – Christopher Evans influenced by clean lines, open space and Jewellers Group “The shop front has been finished in Goldsmiths who has shops in Poynton and simple décor. We carried out the design and anthracite grey, which works well against Warrington, Cheshire. In short the Group work ourselves through our family building the red brick building and appeals to the looks for businesses of a similar ilk to the company, with subcontractors for lighting trend-conscious consumer and reflect our We have recently welcomed The Hallmark Jewellers Group into existing membership. and heating. modern jewellery style. This theme continues the burgeoning NAJ family. We learn a little more about them. with the light grey inside walls. Our ethos How do you select suppliers; what are “The store was previously a tack room and when it comes to creating jewellery is to not known widely in the area as such, so I felt it over complicate the design, so we’ve tried to the criteria? was important to retain some of the features, continue this in the design of the shop. Keep it Quite often new suppliers are recommended but also bring it in line with our style of simple but of high quality.” by THJ members. The selection is based upon the relationships that have been built, whether the supplier is able to offer Jack Murphy Jewellers showing extension plan products that will be in demand and will benefit our members and the discounts/ terms available.

JACK MURPHY JEWELLERS, One such supplier is Gecko. "It was a NEWRY, NI positive Buying Meeting that was well attended with members travelling from as “With increased footfall and our ever- far afield as Scotland, Ireland, the South East growing team, the time was right to expand Coast,” says Gecko’s Andrew Spenceley. into the corner unit next door to our existing “Our new Birthstone and Diamonfire showroom. The expansion will see Jack Collections were particularly successful, and Murphy Jewellers breathe new life into an seen by many as good lines for the approach iconic unit that has been lying idle for a to Christmas.” number of years – something we’re very “It was our first time attending as Geminau excited about. We’ll be gaining an additional Geminau Agencies by BurneMcCawley 2,760 sq ft of retail and office space, and Agencies by Burne McCawley and we were significantly increasing window space for very impressed with the results and the showcasing many exclusive pieces. focused attitude of the membership,” says The Hallmark Jewellers Group consortium suppliers. Additionally, each individual Travis Burne. “All of our collections had a “We don’t want to give away too much was established in 1986 and is comprised member retains total business autonomy, great response, with Nordahl Andersen and at this early stage, but we can reveal that of a network of independent retail with no constraints or restrictions dictated in particular their gents collection Son of the additional space will include a brand- jewellers from throughout the UK. During by THJ. Noa being a big hit” new bridal jewellery lounge, extended a successful AGM and buyers’ meeting in jewellery showroom and luxurious coffee Cheshire in October, the entire committee What are the benefits of joining the “New business is fundamental to the growth Richard Burton and Champagne area, all designed to of The Hallmark Jewellers Group (THJ) was Group? of any business,” adds Martin Thornton complement our existing Hill Street re-elected. of the Intercity Watch Company. “Happily the Buying Meeting was successful for us showroom. We understand the importance THJ members have complete autonomy launching four brands into new customers. of the customer experience and want Jack Elected chairman of the Group (for the past over the running of their business, ie there I also found it valuable to network with Murphy Jewellers to become a destination. 18 years) Harvey Morgan, was one of the is no central buying or invoicing. As well as existing customers and would be keen to IN A NUTSHELL… four founder members and opened Harvey’s some of the best discounts in the industry, participate again.” “In our existing Hill Street showroom, the Jewellers in Middleton, Manchester, the members also benefit from networking “Ultimately, you must put yourself in your we have two luxurious ‘Private Selection same year. Here he describes THJ. opportunities andcompetitive membership customers’ shoes. Understanding what your Other THJ Group approved suppliers Rooms’ located towards the back of the fees and annual subscription. shop floor. They’ve always been a part of our customers want at every contact point will How does The Hallmark Jewellers include watch brands such as Accurist, ensure you remain current, flexible and Rotary and Citizen; fine jewellery names like retail offering – a safe and private space for Group differ from other buying groups? “We have been members for the last 15 successful!” says Rebecca Sharman. “The Andre Michael, Gemex and Tivon; designer customers to make important purchases, years and have found THJ to be very such as choosing an engagement ring. fact is that if you are in retail today it’s just names like Lucy Quartermaine and Carrie The management of the Group is via an beneficial to our business and enjoy the not an option to stand still – your customers Elspeth and a number of silver jewellery, elected, non-salaried committee with all camaraderie with our fellow members,” says “We’ve carried out thorough research, which just won’t forgive you as they head off to pen and giftware brands. profits re-invested internally. We currently Adam Dubberley of Ashby Jewellers. “The will be reflected in the design and feel of your competition!” have 42 members, most of whom are recent October AGM and buying event the extended showroom. We have a strong manufacturing-design, first-generation were the most productive we have attended understanding of what works and what jewellery retailers and as a consortium for years, with a great mix of companies doesn’t for our customers. My daughter we have around a £28m joint turnover. and product ranges on offer and we were Gemma and I have visited trade shows and Is your business worthy of being featured as done research on shop fittings; ultimately, The Group itself is a not-for-profit model especially impressed with many of the a Member Profile? Then contact: our customers will remain at the heart of the whereby the elected committee manages suppliers offering special improved terms [email protected] design and fitting out.” proceedings and negotiates discounts and for the event.” Steve Massey of Whites Fine terms with the portfolio of trade suppliers, Jewellers added: “They’re a great bunch Applications for retail membership or to We love hearing about your new stores and refurbishments – if you have a which are passed on in their entirety to of people. It’s good to talk to like-minded become a supplier should be made to: story to tell get in touch: [email protected] members, with no further charges to the business owners at the meetings.” [email protected] 50 Profile The Jeweller December 2019 Profile 51

and is described by Alex as as well as some of the UK's And now for something a ‘jewellery genius’. Bethy is best designers. They spent six obsessed with anything to do months searching out unique completely different… ‘relaxed with jewellery – always on top of and beautiful display cabinets new brands and looks. “She’s an from all over the UK. One of the outstanding professional in the luxury’ arrives in Altrincham. largest cabinets used to be in industry – we are immensely the Natural History Museum proud of Bethy,” says Jo. where for a century it displayed dinosaur bones. It’s vital Why open now and that the shop felt warm and Who are Hill & Hill? Manchester and the Lake welcoming, and like no other. District, she went on to establish why in Altrincham? herself as a leading industry Hill & Hill The Jewellers is Alex says: "We are hugely proud expert offering consultancy and the brainchild of husband and "Once a shop owner, always of the shop and customers training to key names like Casio, a shop owner" says Jo, who wife team Alex and Jo Hill love it. You’ll never get a hard Clogau and Lumbers. Jo helps has missed not running her sell at Hill & Hill; we’ll just (previously Jo Henderson). train and motivate staff on all own store. So over the last happily show off our amazing Jo has worked in the jewellery aspects of selling jewellery, as few years the couple quietly designers – the jewellery sells industry for 20 years. From well as offering management looked for a town where a new opening her first shop aged 21, support on running a successful ‘relaxed luxury’ style jewellery itself. Designers like Shaun to building a £2.5m business multi-million pound jewellery shop would fit. On a day out to Leane, Claudia Bradby, Lucy of six stores in London, business. Altrincham they came across a Quartermaine, and local large empty corner shop. The designers Carter Gore and town had just won the ‘best high Rachel Galley are all totally on street in England award (2018) point and customers love them." and was enjoying a resurgence. This shop was an obvious place for the new concept store. Altrincham sits in an area As an industry considered one of the wealthiest boroughs of the North West. consultant, it was It’s been named as one of the clearly key for Hill & Top 10 ‘premium opportunities’ in the UK (Property Week). Hill to be spot-on! The Great British High Street Is it living up to your & Award run by the Ministry of Housing, Communities & Local dreams so far? What Government and sponsored by Visa, celebrate the best has the customer Hill Hill town centres across the UK and Altrincham was one of reaction been like? 26 finalists. Awards judge Hemlata Narasimhan, head "Putting customer experience of Merchant Services at Visa at the heart of this business was Europe, said: “Altrincham is a priority. Everyone who walks The Jewellers a fantastic example of a high through the door is warmly street that has made huge welcomed. Hill & Hill is a strides in transforming itself fully working jewellers and so and significantly improving whatever the customer wants, In the 2018 UK Jewellery Jo barely saw each other, so the environment for locals and we can do,” says Jo. “From day visitors alike.” Awards she won the Services to the idea of opening a shop one we have had customers the Industry Award and she’s together was mooted. But it wanting bespoke pieces, as "Surprisingly Altrincham the chosen training provider had to be a jewellery shop ‘like does not have any mid-priced well as many needing repairs. for UK buying groups CMJ and no other’. Alex says: "I didn’t jewellery shops selling We say ‘whatever the customer Houlden. Thriving on helping want glass boxes, long glass accessible luxury jewellery,” wants we will do it’, we always smaller high street jewellers counters, staff in suits. We says Jo. “They do now!" say ‘yes’.” compete in tough economic agreed on a concept of ‘relaxed conditions, she’s arguably the luxury’, cutting edge but ‘Mary Portas of the jewellery Already the shop has had unpretentious and thoroughly world’, helping turn businesses amazing reviews on Google welcoming". What look and from ‘struggling’ to ‘very and Facebook and customer profitable’. customer experience response has been great, Would you like a explains Alex. "This shop did you want for the member profile? Her partner Alex Hill, a former Who else should we is beautiful. It's been very BBC journalist and freelance store? carefully crafted to make you television producer, is a relative know about? feel welcome, without being Email Belinda via newcomer to the jewellery Being totally different was [email protected] industry. Over the years Alex and Jo believe it’s their the starting point. Alex intimidating and customers together he says he couldn’t store manager who is the real and Jo were determined to really like that. Customers get to share your story. help but get sucked into the brains behind the stores day- curate a totally new jewellery outstanding service – we’re "wonderful world of jewellery". to-day success – Bethy Highon experience, with the furniture all a little bit obsessed about Work schedules meant he and was one of Jo's first employees all reclaimed vintage cabinets, offering really good service." Industry News 53

Responsible Jewellery Handbook Launches

Common Objective (CO) the pioneering tech solution to sustainable fashion sourcing and business, has launched its Responsible Jewellery Handbook – a digital hub of intelligence to “amplify best-practice in responsible and sustainable sourcing”, and support jewellery brands to make more New Dates and ethical business decisions. The hub brings together resources from industry experts, including the Incorporation of Goldsmiths, Levin Sources and V&V Venue for IJL 2020 Consultancy, to create consolidated information and suppliers for jewellers and jewellery brands of all shapes and sizes. ollowing uncertainty about from both central London hotels and venue and dates for International quieter areas of London. CO's impact director, Clare Lissaman, says: Jewellery London (IJL) next “We hope that jewellers can benefit from year, the trade show will take Katie Morris, IJL event director said: “We our global learnings on fashion, to move F the trade to sustainable practices more place from Sunday 13th – Tuesday 15th are so pleased to be able to offer another September, 2020, at a new London venue iconic, interesting home for IJL – a great rapidly. Along with content from expert – Alexandra Palace. exhibiting and visiting experience in a industry partners, we will be commissioning unique environment. The redevelopment jewellery-specific research and data on the Set in parkland, 10 minutes north of plans for Olympia are very exciting and latest developments in the market to support Kings Cross, Alexandra Palace has been we wish them all the best for the next few our members.” regularly used for concerts, events and years as these plans come to fruition. In the exhibitions during its 146 years. In the meantime we’re looking forward to working last year it has hosted London Fashion with everyone to make IJL 2020 and Week events and catwalk shows, award- beyond the best showcase of the jewellery winning music and comedy, alongside industry in the UK.” www.jewellerylondon. many trade shows. It is easily accessible com for further information.

New Head for DPA Tivon Launches

Jean-Marc Lieberherr is stepping down New Website from his role as CEO of the Diamond Producers Association at the end of his After more than 55 years in business, Tivon current contract period on 31st December Fine Jewellery has launched its next evolution 2019. David Kellie joins the organisation in business with a new look and a new Engagement Ring this December. Lieberherr was the DPA’s website, which went live on November 2nd. It first chairman when it formed in 2015. promises an enhanced visual experience for consumers and retailers alike – with improved from Recycled Kellie has worked for consumer brands, functionality, search features, click & collect purchasing options, a refined visual display including 14 years at Ralph Lauren where he Smartphones and a whole host of new designs. was corporate senior VP, Global Marketing & Advertising, and most recently Watches of A couple, who met on Tinder, have got Ariel Tivon, sales & creative director, states: Switzerland. He said: “As people search for engaged using a ring made from the “We work very strongly with our retail authentic products with enduring meaning, smartphones that brought them together, in JEWELLERY SUPPLIER OF THE YEAR JEWELLERY SUPPLIER OF THE YEAR partners. What is key is ensuring that when there are outstanding opportunities to they show their consumers our products, that a world-first proposal. The ring, created by grow consumer demand for diamonds. A the online side looks as visually impactful as O2 Recycle to celebrate its 10th anniversary growing number of women are buying the jewellery itself. In an ever-increasingly – in partnership with bespoke sustainable [email protected] • www.ntinga.co.uk • 0208 959 6550 • #[email protected] • www.ntinga.co.uk • 0208 959 6550 • #journeyofcolour for themselves, there are high levels of competitive marketplace, it is important that jeweller, Lylie’s – is made from the couple’s acquisition from younger consumers, and one counts a stand-out website as part of your recycled iPhone 5s smartphones: the handset the number of middle class households marketing arsenal.” speakers and microphones, the cameras (for [globally] is growing rapidly – there’s a very selfies and video chat when living apart), bright future ahead of us.” tivonjewels.com plus circuit boards for the gold band. @Ntinga @Ntingaltd ntinga_ jewellery @Ntinga @Ntingaltd ntinga_ jewellery 54 Watch News The Jeweller December 2019 Watch News 55

1 2 3 7. EMILE CHOURIET Challenger Deep new colour scheme based on slate grey now ornate dial pattern inspired by the interiors embellishes the dial and bezel of this divers' of the Wallace Collection, the walls of which This new watch, with its sturdy rubber strap, watch, whose aesthetics change over time are covered with sumptuous coloured silk features a graduated dial that draws the eye to and whose naval inspiration is echoed in the and velvet wallpaper. a dark red centre that fades to black towards detail. The watch also offers high technical its black ceramic bezel. Red was selected by performance thanks to its Manufacture studying colourful coral reefs, a natural habitat Calibre MT5601. 10. INGERSOLL Trenton Watch Co for the 300 metre water resistant watch, which 1887 houses an Emile Chouriet-modified ETA 2825 automatic movement (Calibre EC9316) in a 9. VIVIENNE WESTWOOD Wallace The Trenton Watch Co was one of the first 42.5mm stainless steel case. Collection movement suppliers to Ingersoll and became a major partner in the brand. Ingersoll 4 5 This latest collection of watches by Vivienne subsequently purchased the movement 8. TUDOR Black Bay Bronze Westwood pays homage to the Wallace maker in 1908, making it one of the largest Collection, London – a national museum watch factories in the world. The limited Following the introduction of the first bronze that presents its collections surrounded by edition (500 pieces), Swiss made timepiece is model, a Black Bay with a chocolate brown original 18th century architectural features powered by an ETA F06.411 movement and dial, TUDOR continues to explore the bronze and a distinctive charm reminiscent of the features luminous dial markers and hands, material with its characteristic patina. A era. Each piece in the collection features an stainless steel case and leather strap.

6 7 8 10 Time Zone 9

1. AVI-8 Hawker Hurricane Douglas BWC/02 movement is based on the original 5. CERTINA DS-1 Powermatic 80 Bader Chronograph proprietary automatic BWC/01 calibre built in partnership with La Joux Perret, and is For an elegant or sporty look, this new Swiss- AVI-8 watches, with the Douglas Bader housed in a 43mm case. made watch comes with easily-switched Foundation has launched this Limited stainless steel bracelet and calfskin strap Edition timepiece, which commemorates and and polished/satin-brushed stainless 40mm draws inspiration from the life, times and 3. FERRAGAMO steel case. The domed anti-reflective sapphire ethos of WWll flying ace double amputee Sir crystal glass sits over a sunray finish silver- Douglas Bader. In addition to a lump sum First appearing in the 1970s as the clasp of coloured dial. The automatic movement has a donation, AVI-8 will donate 10 per cent of a handbag designed by Fiamma Ferragamo, power reserve of 80 hours. sales of the watch to the Foundation, which the Gancini ornament is the emblem of the advances and promotes the mental and Maison, symbol of its history and aesthetics. spiritual welfare of persons who are without The new Double Gancini model pays tribute 6. RAYMOND WEIL Limited Edition one or more limbs, or otherwise physically through the bracelet (also available with disabled. With either a leather or NATO different colour leather straps). The small Freelancer strap, the dial features a seconds hand with rectangular face features a sunray dial, with a the silhouette of Bader’s Hawker Hurricane. red cabochon on the crown. The Swiss watchmaker pays tribute to legendary guitarist Jimi Hendrix with Watch News its newest Limited Edition Freelancer chronograph, inspired by the musician’s 2. BREMONT H-4 Hercules 4. G-SHOCK Full Metal by CASIO The SIHH show in Geneva has been renamed Watches Woodstock performance. Hendrix was known BaselWorld will take place three weeks earlier, in & Wonders and has moved from its former slot in response to a number of exhibitors and visitors who say for his signature left-handed guitar technique, This Limited Edition chronometer salutes The first titanium watch in the Full Metal January to 25th-29th April, 2020. The show, which was that April/May is too late.) The next edition of the show visible in the Fender guitar counterweight the iconic ‘Spruce Goose’ flying boat of the range, this model has the signature heavy created 30 years ago when Richmont’s watch brands will see a new area: the ‘Community District’ – a space 1940s – the vast silver ship is as legendary as look associated with G Shock… but is much design of the second hand. He wore a cyan decided to leave BaselWorld and set up their own show, located in the heart of Hall 1.0, with large, two-level, its inventor Howard Hughes. Limited to 300 lighter. This limited edition watch with blue ensemble with an Aztec guitar strap on will have a revitalised format and will target a wider contemporary, transparent buildings housing two-to- stainless steel, 75 rose gold and 75 platinum camouflage pattern bracelet, is created with the Woodstock stage; the colour is accented audience. three brands each. The move has lured back the likes of pieces, the Bremont H-4 Hercules is a a laser engraving process that produces a on the second and sub-dial hands while the Maurice Lacroix which pulled out of BaselWorld last year. fusion of micro-engineering, watch design dot pattern of three sizes on the black IP- embossed design on the watch face echoes the Meanwhile BaselWorld will open as W&W closes, and aviation history. The 25 jewel Bremont treated bezel and band. Aztec pattern. running from 30th April to 5th May, 2020. (In 2021 Need to see what’s on in 2020? Visit naj.co.uk/whats-on December 2019 Better Business 57

Beautiful jewellery and ere’s a joke. A man walks into very successful indeed – they’ve made a jeweller’s shop and asks if he millions by offering the goods and services the latest timepieces are, can have the battery in his watch that by rights the high street jeweller H changed. The jeweller says ‘no, should sell. naturally, the main focus sorry’ and sends him down the road to Timpson. He never sees that (potential) The tide is turning on this nonsensical of a jewellery store – but customer again. situation however. Increasing numbers of it’s the little extras that can independent retailers are realising that to Hmm, not very funny really, but that’s survive in these tricky times (and to steal really make the difference observational humour for you – not a march on e-tailers) they have to up their everyone gets it. You could swap watch service game. Creating a great experience between a wonderful, and battery for watchstrap and it still wouldn’t means more than Nespresso coffee and a ho-hum, business, says be that amusing. But this stuff happens… a inspirational imagery; it also means lot. Jewellers up and down the country are going the extra mile to provide potential Belinda Morris. helping to make multiples like Timpson customers with what they need. Are we being served?

Ear Piercing

Recently ear piercing has been luring customers into stores. Once upon a time many jewellers routinely offered this service, but the practice fell out of favour with those who regarded it an onerous chore. No longer. The packed Inverness piercing system stand at IJL is testament to the renewed interest in this service.

David Rodger Sharp of the eponymous jewellers in Henley-on-Thames is one happy retailer who had his ear bent (sorry) on the subject.

“When the team first suggested it during Inverness ear-piercing at David Rodger-Sharp one of our strategy meetings I wasn’t too keen, as I didn’t think it was particularly “Claire at Connoisseurs is a legend. The Many didn’t even know our shop existed ‘luxury’ or in-demand. It wasn’t as team pestered her fairly regularly – she until a recommendation for piercing. straightforward as I’d expected – we had to arranged a new chair as required by the apply for a premises license and individual licensing team and a cabinet for storage. She “We’ve been able to engage with clients operator license and have a council really went above and beyond expectations in an entirely new way, deliver our strong inspection. to ensure we could begin quickly. We started marketing message and provide a service piercing in September and a month later had that wasn’t available in the town. We’re “But once we had those, the amazing team pierced around 40 ears. seeing clients peruse the store and identify at Connoisseurs and Inverness provided wish lists for Christmas. It’s all very in-store training. The girls had already been “I thought it would be lots of 12-year olds encouraging. Our preference is for second booking appointments and before we even and it’s been surprising – I’m delighted that and cartilage piercings and we’ll only pierce had the equipment to pierce we had 15 many of those having piercings are actually ears of children if they are old enough to ask booked. our target market: 30 to 50-year old females. for it and show excitement.” 58 Better Business The Jeweller December 2019 Better Business 59

Other Little Extras Valuations

“We offer many other add-on products and “Valuations are a frequently overlooked services: watch batteries, cleaning products, revenue stream for retailers, sometimes watch straps, valuations, repairs…” says even perceived as the ‘necessary evil’ of Nigel Oliver, area manager at TH Baker. retail services, but this doesn’t have to “These services are vital to building long- be the case,” explains Julian Cousins term relationships, creating confidence and FGA DGA FIRV, vice chair of the NAJ’s building our customer base for the future, Institute of Registered Valuers. “A as well as driving footfall, profitability and professional valuation service will not just servicing a generation who don’t use the keep your existing customers happy but can internet.” also bring in plenty of new ones. With the IRV continually promoting the expertise Helen Molloy, director at Forum of its members, insurers are increasingly Jewellers in Broadstone, Dorset, is a requesting updated valuations from their happy retail customer of Connoisseurs policyholders and for those valuations to be cleaning products and Lox Earring Backs. from an IRV. “Connoisseurs are very easy to sell as we’re confident about the product and use it “A great way to provide the service is by ourselves in store,” she says. “Each item is having an independent IRV come and do Image courtesy of Shirley Mitchell FIRV self-explanatory. Customers are amazed by your valuations for you; not only can you the Diamond Dazzle Stiks as there’s nothing promote a highly professional service, but else like them. Some return to replace used it will be guaranteed to pass the scrutiny had incidents where a customer’s jewellery items and others come in having been of the insurance industry and HMRC (for recommended. They also buy them as is lost or stolen; every time getting the item probate valuations), and be a no-cost, replaced is simple and straight forward for gifts, especially at Christmas as it makes outsourced addition to your existing the perfect stocking filler. When we attend both us and the customer.” services. Don’t forget the opportunity a wedding fair now, we offer all the brides for spin-off repair work and general gem to-be a free ring clean and they can’t believe Insurance MarchGuard, is a point of sale product testing, plus the added footfall opportunity the difference it makes. which TH Baker has been selling for over of a valuation day! Frankly, retailers not Insurance broker TH March offers two two years. “Having previously worked for providing valuations on this basis are really particular schemes for retail jewellers “Offering a lower value service item brings a multiple jewellers I recognised many missing a trick.” – and customers into your store, not once but MarchGuard March Insurance benefits to offering this type of product Birmingham Jewellery Quarter- usually twice – they leave watches for Solutions. to our customers – increased units per based uses the latter – a batteries to be replaced, then return to Peter Richard Cheer FGA DGA MIRV of Diamond Heaven transaction, increased margins and in Wells, Somerset, is regularly scheme whereby jewellers hand referral collect them. There are many benefits, like Connoisseurs Watch Cloth Studleys profitability, guaranteed repeat custom on quizzed on valuations by customers, with cards/leaflets to their customers with their increased footfall – no-one likes walking into all repairs and replacements – which make single item limits and jewellery cover being own unique agency reference number on an empty shop. We often hear: “oh I never us the jeweller of choice for every customer two aspects that he finds to be the least it. TH March arranges the policy once the shop in there, it’s too expensive”, yet one of who makes a claim,” explains area manager understood by the public. He answers the customer has been referred to them (rather our best-selling items is the £10 Diamond Nigel Oliver. than a policy arranged by the jeweller Dazzle Stik and Lox Earring Backs. When latter here: immediately once the item has been they come in for this service they realise purchased). “It’s an exceptional product at an this. Customers get a real understanding How can I ensure that my jewellery is exceptional price, that fits our customers’ about us, and our customer service, giving properly valued? “March Insurance Solutions has no limit, needs and ensures peace of mind and them piece of mind and building trust. Morellato Rally as we arrange the cover ourselves, which is creates a positive experience in difficult or They then have the confidence to leave "You need to have it valued by a qualified more suited to Diamond Heaven’s customer emotional circumstances,” he adds. “If the a cherished item for repair or purchase a valuer who is a member of the NAJ’s base due to selling engagement rings and item is accidently broken or lost or stolen, higher priced item.” Institute of Registered Valuers (an IRV we’ll repair or replace at no cost to the valuer). A valuation produced by such a the value involved in these sales,” says THM sales director Simon Dawe. customer, thanks to MarchGuard. Without person provides an accurate description of it, those situations would be much worse – each item and a measure of its quality in “Having jewellery insured is something a lot on top of the stress, customers have to pay terms of the type of precious metal, the size, of people overlook. Some may add it to their for the repair or replacement. They may be colour and clarity of any diamonds, and a house insurance or have no form of cover able to claim through household insurance, description of other stones, as well as an up- at all,” explains Nick Carter of Diamond however they’d have to pay an excess… to-date replacement cost. These valuations Heaven. “We wanted a robust insurer we which MarchGuard doesn’t have. Their will also include a photograph. Such a could recommend to our customers and premium will also increase next year and for valuation is the most powerful protection TH March provided just that. It’s a pretty years to come. MarchGuard is simply one against inadequate replacement. Only by successful scheme – we have a good portion single payment for either a one- or three- supplying your insurers with an up-to-date, of our customer base signed up to it. We’ve year policy with nothing else to pay.” professionally prepared insurance schedule can you substantiate the value and quality of your jewellery.”

He adds: “the rigorous and invaluable training involved to become an IRV valuer gives the retailer professional expertise that is unparalleled by any other qualification in Why not share your retail service experiences with us? the industry.” Contact [email protected] or via social media: @UKNAJ Connoisseurs Dazzle Stik 60 Member Profile The Jeweller December 2019 Member Profile 61

Tell us about the birth of Ntinga. Where did the name come from?

Howard Graham, MD and founder: Ntinga had an interesting start. While on holiday in Cape Town we came across a shop called Ntinga – the design, the word, the look of it really captivated me and resonated with me. Six months later, in 2006, I started a new company and rather than call it ‘Howard Graham Agencies’ my wife Carolyn and I decided to call our new venture Ntinga – not knowing what it actually meant. It was some months later that we faxed the hotel where we stay in South Africa and they explained ‘ntinga’ was a Zulu word: when they throw their spears, they shout out “NTINGA” – it means to soar high or fly in the sky. Which I think we have done!

Carolyn and Howard Graham (second and third from left) and Craig Cohen (far right) at the UK jewellery Awards Stephanie Lee

Fine gemstone jewellery business and NAJ member Ntinga is Describe the ethos of Ntinga How did you first start Who designs the jewellery that we do so that we stand out and offer an enjoyable buying experience. flying high these days. Here's how it has reached those heights. SL: Our company ethos has always been to promoting Ntinga to the and where does the This year after winning a UK Jewellery provide quality and unique products, as well jewellery industry? inspiration come from? Award we celebrated at IJL with a gin bar as a personal service. We are always willing and pick-and-mix stand as part of our booth; to help with customer requests and source Is it sold as branded, or HG: We have always aimed to be innovative this created a unique buying experience and loose stones or create designs for customers, – trying a different perspective with the do you create own-label produced our most successful show to date. as well as help with any repairs, marketing events that we do. We have very many and visuals. We always state that not only examples: producing our own chocolate collections too? We always feel people should put more are we providing a product… but a service bars to coincide with the chocolate coloured effort into the events as they bring the trade Ntinga – as well. diamond collectio; football World Cup CC: We all have an input on design, together and showcase a company. We are charts; plastic diamonds filled with sweets: a although Howard is the one who, with his really hoping that IJL doesn’t disappear. gin bar at IJL; a pick and mix stand at CMJ; experience and knowledge, has the foresight watermelon cocktails and theme to launch to see something working with design. What makes Ntinga stand our tourmaline range; producing our own Currently we have not branded our passports to the world of gem jewellery we products, however we are creating a few Flying High ranges which we are going to brand as out from other gemstone make. The list goes on…! How do you benefit from collections and provide customers with jewellery businesses? We have been connecting with customers PoS and marketing for these – they will be being a member of the for years, but the CMJ and Houlden buying running lines that can be repeated. the office, which I loved. After a few years CC: It’s Howard’s ability to source something NAJ? How did the members of the groups gave us a wider audience and in fashion, dad set up with my mum, and I unique and take a risk with an unusual cut allowed us to promote our company and the Our bespoke pieces are one-off and no two decided that I loved jewellery just as much or designs. We travel throughout the world, With the likable Garry Lane on board this team come into the industry? marketing that we put effort into. A couple are the same, so our customers can sell and wanted to help out in the family business. to many countries, sourcing at trade events under their own names with the knowledge has re-ignited our involvement with the of years ago we decided to use PR services HG: From my early childhood days, I used This led to us opening a shop, which I ran for and connecting with new suppliers abroad. that no one will have the same piece. Association and it has helped to promote us which has enabled us to gain a wider to enjoy collecting gems and rocks. I used to eight years. However, with the changes on the One of the things that really makes us stand and back the company and the name audience and also reach out to the public. tumble the rocks to polish them, then made high street we felt it was only right to close out is the staff training that we offer. We We love individuality and making Amazon- Ntinga. The NAJ is also great for useful We were able to have some of our products them into simple types of jewellery. One day at the shop and I continued to help with the appreciate that many people may have never proof products! contacts for industry-related help. worn by celebrities at certain events, which school we had a careers officer come and visit trade side of Ntinga and use what I had learnt have seen or heard of some of the rare and has helped a lot with exposure. who said: “who wants to become a diamond in retail, design and marketing to add a new interesting gems that we can provide so it is ntinga.co.uk sorter?” That was it – my career in gems and dimension to the business. imperative that we can teach the staff what jewellery began! After two jobs I was made they are, so they are able to sell them in their redundant and was forced to start on my own Craig Cohen, national sales manager: stores. What are your views on at the age of 26; it was the same year my late My working background is a mixture of What has growth been like trade shows and buying father unexpectedly passed away. recruitment and women’s retail. In between HG: Coloured stones are at the core of our these jobs I had been helping out Howard business; I have a passion for them and I’m since you launched? groups? Daughter, Stephanie Lee, director: I always and the team at our old retail premises. When fond of finding different gems, one recent loved helping dad and seeing gemstones I finished my last job, I asked Howard if I one being blue morganite and a lavender- CC: Since we started, our focus has Buying groups and trade shows have been and crystals and often went travelling on the could help out again in the shop, as it was pink morganite. But tourmalines are my predominantly been the UK. We do now very beneficial for us and allowed us to road with him. In my year out, while trying to something I really enjoyed. Fortunately he favourite. I could see colour coming back have stockists all over the UK and Northern reach a wider audience and connect with find work experience in the fashion industry, was looking for a permanent sales person and five years ago – I’m good at making the right Ireland, Channel Islands, Sweden, Spain and new customers in the UK and abroad. We I ended up working for him, helping run the rest, as they say, is history. choices. Gibraltar. always strive to put effort into all the events 62 Better Business Advice The Jeweller

NEW COURSE UNDERSTANDING WATCHES Project Pipeline IN A RETAIL ENVIRONMENT The new horological course for jewellers As an independent retailer, designer brand or pre-owned companies like De Beers, Presidium, GIA and Alrosa, have been independently tested jewellery business it is vital to protect your pipeline against for performance.

undisclosed laboratory-grown diamonds. Here, we share a If you’re a retailer or dealer, don’t presume guide to taking steps in the right direction. that a detection device in the ASSURE Here at the British Horological Institute, we’re delighted to have Directory is beyond the realms of possibility. partnered with the National Association of Jewellers (NAJ). Now Many have accessible prices for small- and medium-sized businesses and will help we want to share the horological knowledge and skills that will be you to establish your own in-house testing of the most benefit to you. protocol. Our new two-day, hands-on course, Understanding Watches in Step Four: Prioritise Staff Training and Diligence a Retail Environment, has been specifically devised for jewellers. By the end of it, you’ll know about the different types of watches, Ensure your whole team is on the same page and understands any new due their terminology and how they work, and be able to change diligence procedures inside-out and aware batteries and straps. You’ll also have a wealth of knowledge of the risks? Can they use verification instruments accurately? Are they using the about timepieces that you can share with your customers. correct terminology with customers around Image courtesy of Dominion Diamonds diamonds, laboratory-grown diamonds, To find out more or to make a booking contact Zanna on the and diamond simulants? Many reputable details below. businesses, including De Beers Group Industry Services, offer laboratory-grown ‘Maintaining pipeline integrity’ – not For greater assurance of pipeline integrity, diamond workshops in the UK that your Understanding Watches in a Retail Environment something from a plumbing manual, but check if your counterparties are certified staff may benefit from. one of the most vital (and underdeveloped) by the Responsible Jewellery Council or if Cost: £250 facets of UK jewellery businesses. they adhere to the World Diamond Council Step Five: Be the Business that Asks According to the Diamond Producers System of Warranties Guidelines. Please see the BHI website for upcoming course dates Questions Association (DPA), business owners can Location: Upton Hall, Upton, Newark, Nottinghamshire, NG23 5TE take simple steps to ensure the products Step Two: Stay Separated and Secure Finally, never be afraid to ask questions and On-site accommodation available. that end up in their windows or on their demand answers. You may have worked website are exactly what they believe them Some businesses sell both laboratory-grown with your existing suppliers for years, if to be. Namely, natural diamonds. and natural diamonds. In this instance, it not decades, but positive steps sometimes is essential to create distinct routes that require change. If you experience problems Selling undisclosed synthetic diamonds as ensure separation (or perhaps go one step or aren’t satisfied by the results of your natural diamonds can lead to commercial further and separate by site). Do you record due diligence queries, act by notifying penalties as well as criminal charges. It’s stones entering your store via an inventory and reporting incidents to relevant therefore essential that you put the right management system? Can you always organisations, including bourses, suppliers processes and procedures in place to pinpoint where and with whom and exact and trade organisations. This will in-turn protect your organisation. If you’re unsure stone is within your premises? Tamper-proof support your peers who may not be as far where to start, here are some core steps packaging, meticulously organised storage along their ‘pipeline protection’ journey. recommended by the DPA: solutions and an experienced logistics company are essential, especially if stones For further information, visit the are leaving your premises and journeying to Step One: Be Aware of the Risks ASSURE Directory on the DPA website: a third party. Other things you may wish to diamondproducers.com/ASSURE Conduct overall due diligence on your consider are camera surveillance to mitigate diamond supply chain, in addition to the risk of employees switching stones, and analysing the route diamonds take to get a returns’ testing scheme to ensure stones to your business’ premises and the route have not been switched by the customer. Training Clock they take once in your company’s hands. Have you taken the Better and Watchmakers Armed with this, you’ll be able to identify Step Three: Commit to Testing Business health check yet? visit Since 1858 the risk areas where undisclosed synthetic www.naj.co.uk/better-business- diamonds could infiltrate your supply of You’re likely to have asked your suppliers natural diamonds. Don’t be limited by how they test their diamonds and what they your supply chain either; what about your do to ensure their delivery to you is verified. Contact Zanna: For an additional layer of security, ask them bhi.co.uk external contractors who conduct repairs, Scan QR code > or your internal staff who receive pieces what specific instruments they use to test T: 01636 817603 from customers for bespoke orders? While their diamonds – are they included on the purposeful tampering may be rare in these list of Diamond Verification Instruments E: [email protected] cases, mistakes and accidental mix-ups in the ASSURE Directory. These synthetic could be a factor. diamond detection devices, from a range of Upton Hall • Upton • Newark On-site accommodation is available. Nottinghamshire • NG23 5TE Please enquire for details.

©BHI 2019 / 00457

00457 - Retail Watch NAJ - V7 FAW.indd 2 26/09/2019 13:51 Education 65

The Latest Clarity & Success Award Winners

my birthstone – I used my passion for always loved wearing jewellery and had unique and timeless designs and enjoyed a keen interest in gemstones. Once I saw incorporating my own interest in astrology an opening at Gear Jewellers I thought, “I and spirituality to create a piece of jewellery think I’d be good at that”. Applying for the that would be affordable, contemporary position last July has been one of the best and a symbol of strength and harmony. things I’ve ever done. The most challenging area of JET was WE VE BEEN RECLAIMING AND RECYCLING ’ understanding hallmarking and describing The great thing about Gear Jewellers is PRECIOUS METAL SINCE 1945 AND STILL each mark – however I’m now enjoying that we create original content across all these challenges. DELIVER THE VERY BEST RETURNS FOR YOUR platforms, from photography and social media to engraving, and I get to work on all SCRAP, LEMEL AND WORKSHOP WASTE. Having completed JET I have more those things, along with selling beautiful confidence in providing customers with jewellery. It’s all hands on deck here! the best information. It gives them peace of 0207 400 3400 PRESMAN mind that what they’ve chosen is right for When applying for the position I was told INFO@MASTERMELTS CO UK . . MASTERMELT them. I thoroughly enjoyed the course – it I’d have the opportunity to further my definitely gave me more in-depth knowledge jewellery education through the JET course Laura Neil, Beaverbrooks in areas I probably wasn’t as confident in and this really appealed to me. I’ve gained (August Winner) before. I hope to study JET Diploma in a wealth of knowledge from it and it’s given the future, as it would help to extend my me a huge confidence boost when selling to knowledge even further. I’m thankful for all “I’d never thought about a career in customers. the help and support my team offered me IT’S NOT MACHINES THAT jewellery – I happened to see a vacancy for while studying.” a customer sales role with Beaverbrooks I really enjoyed the gemstone assignment MAKE GREAT CASTINGS... at a time in my life when I wanted to try as I find gems fascinating. There’s so much something different. to learn and every gem has a unique story. As part of the assignment you’re asked I studied retail marketing and always had an to design a piece of jewellery using your interest in company-customer relationships. birthstone and that let my creativity come Having worked for Beaverbrooks for two into play. I found the project on the 4Cs to years now, I understand the importance of be the most challenging – there’s so much rapport-building and take pride in giving information there that I had to get into our customers a memorable and joyous one project, but it was ultimately the most

( B U T H E Y L P ! ) experience. rewarding assignment. Retailers have confirmed Within my branch, the team works together Even though each assignment became since installing Parify's ...IT’S EXPERIENCE, PRACTICE to support one another, however we’re also a little more difficult, I was also growing Cerebra & Diamond Sparkle recognised for our individual skills and with confidence and learning so much. downlights, sales of fine jewellery strengths. I’ve been trusted with the extra My tutor, Mark, was brilliant – giving me have increased substantially. AND KNOWLEDGE responsibility of being our branch’s visual feedback after every assignment, making Now's the time to take action. merchandising coordinator. note of the parts I did well on and giving Call for a free demonstration. me suggestions on others. Knowing where I (AND WE HAVE OVER For our benefit, it’s mandatory to complete excelled and the parts that needed tweaking the JET Certificate alongside the training really shaped my growth in the right t 01509 323 111 40 YEARS OF IT!) we’re given by Beaverbrooks. I’m relishing direction. my new level of confidence – I feel I’ve come Enya Quinn, Gear Jewellers e [email protected] into my own as a sales consultant. JET has (September Winner) I’ve already begun JET Diploma, which I’m w www.parify.co.uk reinforced my understanding of jewellery really excited about. It will be a challenge TALK CASTING production, which has been noticed by my but it’s a challenge I’m ready for. Who team and branch manager. “After working in a massive clothing store knows what doors this will open for me, but and FINISHING for five years, I needed a change – a new I hope to stay in the jewellery business and My favourite aspect of the course was job that would challenge me mentally. I’d with Gear Jewellers for a long time coming. Part of the Parify Group | Made in Britain 01583 431683 designing a piece of jewellery using never worked in jewellery before but I’d It’s too much fun!” www.JewelleryCastingScotland.com [email protected] For more information about NAJ courses – for yourself or for staff members – visit: naj.co.uk/education or contact: [email protected] 66 Opinion The Jeweller the Last Word... goes to Scott Walter

more than two years. At 28 I was lucky If you could have a heart-to-heart to become the UK’s youngest ever Assay discussion with anyone in the industry, Master. It has been an incredibly rewarding who would it be? And what would you and diverse career. discuss? I would want to sit down with the consumer What prompted you to accept the chair minister and talk about the hidden impacts position at the Vienna Convention? of cuts to trading standards authorities and the need to do more to tackle the fake and The Vienna Convention is a treaty between un-hallmarked product being sold to UK signatory governments. It’s a Brexit-proof consumers through online marketplaces. mechanism that facilitates the trade of precious metal articles between member countries. As we face the uncertainty of Tell us something not many people the post-Brexit regulatory framework, the know about you? Convention will become far more important I race a 1987 Suzuki GSXR1100 motorcycle for the UK trade. I want to make sure that the in the Scottish post classic senior class. Convention continues to provide value for all its member countries. If not this industry, what would have been your career? What are your main goals for the Managing a motor sport team (wishful Convention? What developments are in thinking). the pipeline? The Convention has already begun the work What was the last film you saw? Any of building a vision and strategy for the good? future. My ambition for the Convention is Not only Assay Master to progress that vision to implementation. Joker, starring Joaquin Phoenix. An incredible performance and a skilfully I hope that we can continue to grow the crafted and thought provoking film. at the Edinburgh Assay Convention’s membership internationally. Office, Scott Walter What keeps you awake at night? What is the Convention doing to is now also the newly support the industry as we approach The growth in popularity of a post-truth Brexit? political narrative on both sides of the appointed chair of the Atlantic and the erosion of shared objective The Convention provides ongoing certainty standards for truth. (Well you did ask.) Vienna Convention for importers and exporters regardless of the – also known as Brexit outcome by providing a single mark that is accepted by all signatory countries. the Precious Metals It is not limited to Europe or to EU member Quick Fire Convention. states. The Convention is an international treaty. For companies trading across White metal or yellow metal? countries the Convention offers certainty. Yellow What led you to a career in the Career-wise, who has inspired you? Jewellery for men – yes or no? precious metals world and eventually Yes at the Edinburgh Assay Office? I learned most of my basic business lessons while working for five years with my uncle I worked in a retail and manufacturing Two wheels or four wheels? Two wheels jewellery business where I trained as a in his retail and manufacturing business. goldsmith and a retailer. After a brief stint Everything from there on has simply in self-employment and B2B jewellery been on a larger scale. The principles of Paperback or e-book reader? Paperback industry sales, I accepted a role at the good customer service, cost management, Assay Office to help improve their jewellery price point, quality control and protecting handling routines. I never planned to stay reputation remain the same on any scale.